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GAVANTI- This is a simple more common stitch derived from the Kannada word-Gantu means

'knot'. It is a double running stitch, in which the first running stitch is filled by the
second running stitch on the same line. The second one worked exactly opposite to
the first one. Gavanthi may be worked in horizontal, vertical or diagonal directions.

This is a zigzag runnings stitch which appears like staircase. It is same as Gavanti
MURAGI- stitch but works in a stepwise manner. The work in both Gavanti and Murgi
stitches is neat and tidy, where the design appears same on right and wrong side
of the material. However, the stitches should be of uniform size. Designs are
produced by grouping the tiny designs on regular intervals and sequences.

NEGI- This is another stitch in Kasuti. Negi in Kannada means 'to weave' i.e. Negi
design has an overall effect of a woven design. Negi is nothing but ordinary
running or darning stitch. It is worked in long and short straight lines or floats
and therefore the design does not appear identical on either sides of the cloth.

MENTHI- This stitch is an ordinary cross stitch. Menthi in Kannada means 'Fenugreek Seed'.
This cross stitch usually appears heavy as it is used for filling purpose. This stitch
requires more length of thread than the other three stitches. Similar to Negi, even
this stitch does not give same appearance on either sides of the cloth. It can be
seen in Ikat sarees
From plain Cotton sarees, this style has been adapted
by variety of materials ranging from Georgette to Silk.
The pallus are special flavors for this style of
embroidery. Present day sources of income in the
western regions of Karnataka are solely ruled by the Kai
krafts or kasuti embroidery. A single embroidery or
cross stitch design requires a lot of helping hands. In
fact, a lot of sarees have taken up this embroidery to
enrich their designs and collection.

No weather can prevent you from wearing the


kasuti embroidery. The patterns and material
make it suitable for all seasons. With the kasuti
embroidery, regular wash in the machine or dry
cleaning would do. No heavy maintenance is
required as far as these sarees are concerned.
The best part is one can just soak it in a hot
water bucket.
Kasuti embroidery has now spread to furniture
covers and splendid curtains also. The rustic
motifs are an interesting version of the kasuti
embroidery that has driven the innovations in.
With classic designs and beautiful embroidery,
kasuti gives out an amazing collection of furniture
wear.

Today, this embroidery is no longer just prevalent in


sarees. One can find fine traces of this embroidery
in salwar suits and dress materials as well. Employing
various kasuti weavers by bringing in the tradition of
this embroidery in sarees and dress materials gives
out a splendid present time for the dharwad sarees.
The materials are not limited to Cotton anymore.
They have started ranging from Silk to other
varieties including Nylon.
Known to be one of the most ancient and
traditional type of intrinsic art, Kashida
Embroidery, also spelled as Kasida defines its
cultural essence through the medium of bead and
threadwork, which has gained maximum popularity,
fame and recognition in the ethnic land of Jammu
and Kashmir. The purest essence and forms of
nature like birds, leaves, trees and many such
natural motifs are replicated in this embroidery
with multi colored threads and beads woven into
the fabrics like shawls and saris.
The entire pattern is made with one or two
embroidery stitches, and mainly chain stitch on a
base of silk, wool and cotton: the colour is usually
white, off-white or cream but nowadays one can
find stoles and salwar-kameez sets in many other
colours such as brown, deep blue, sky blue,
maroon and rani pink
The land of Kashmir etched its beautiful essence
in the form of Kashida embroidery into the
fashion world way back in the Mughal period which
was patronized by the emperors and the royals of
that era. However if we go further up along the
paths of historical archives of fashion, it can be
found that this embroidery was also creatively
initiated by the residents of Srinagar. Intrinsic
needlework and quality was webbed into the finest
maze of creativity and innovation using a wide
spread of colors and patterns which intertwined
the mood and spirits of the craftsmen with the
essence of the pure nature, and that too through
the traditional form of embroidery which involved
the role of one or two styles of embroidery
stitching.
The base cloth, whether wool or cotton, is
generally white or cream or a similar
shade. Pastel colors are also often used.
The craftsmen use shades that blend with
the background. Thread colors are
inspired by local flowers. Only one or two
stitches are employed on one fabric.
Outstanding feature of this embroidery is the fact that it is made with single
thread, resulting in a flat formalized appearance.
It draws inspiration from nature. Birds, blossoms
and flowers, creepers, chinar leaves, ghobi,
mangoes, lotus, and trees are the most common
themes.
The most commonly
used stiches are:- This intricate Kashmiri embroidery enhanced the beauty of
garments onto higher and trendier levels with the passing years.
This embroidery was also witnessed on cushion covers, veils, bed
covers, curtains, carpets, bags, dress materials and many other
articles of daily and personal purposes, besides silk sarees,
jackets, stoles and shawls. Symbols inspired by the surroundings,
and motifs are now woven in different shapes and sizes keeping
the trend quotient up on higher levels.
Crediting to the influence of nature
in such intrinsic artworks,
international markets have also
recognized and appreciated the
beauty of this Kashmiri embroidery,
which has also managed to floor the
international masses across the
globe. As this embroidered fabric
can go along with every season of
the year without compromising on
comfort and convenience, the
demand quotient for this
embroidery has risen in numbers in
every pocket of the world.

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