Sei sulla pagina 1di 2

Sometimes bar food is not enough, even when you're in a bar.

Hamburgers, wings, pizza, tacos,


you know the drill. Sometimes all you want is an alcohol blotter, true; but sometimes you'd really
like to eat something a little more, shall we say, elevated. These two bars have brought their food
offerings to a higher level, and their customers have been rewarding them by fattening their checks
with food.

On the outskirts of the Design District, at Amendment XXI, Dutch owner Perrone Pet (her real
name) opened with a full kitchen. Unfortunately, the menu didn't take, and the place became a
lounge with no food at all. But all that has just changed. I even spied some Colombian girls who
arrived early to try the new inexpensive menu, which is handled deftly by Chef Andres and his
partner and line-cook, Lina, originally from Bogotá and Medellin, respectively. Andres actually
spent some time at celebuchef Jean-Georges Vongerichten's Spice Market, in NYC, in the front of
the house, as well as at the Park Ave Cafe (now called Park Avenue Winter). His resume in Miami
includes the daffy 94th Aero Squadron. The low-priced options (everything, really) include Steak
Frites ($12), Tilapia Ceviche ($9), which is a full 5 oz. portion of fresh fish, Fried Shrimp and Fries
Platter ($10), and a tasty pair of Carimañolas Cartageneras ($8), which are a Colombian version of
the papas rellenas so common here; but with yucca subbed for the mashed potatoes, and a large
amount of fresh ground beef filling inside. The Cilantro-heavy sauce that comes with the big,
crunchy pair, looks like relish, and is slightly spicy (maybe could be a little spicier), and tastes
flavorful and almost sweet. The ceviches are also tasty, nicely presented in oversized martini
glasses, with a flash-fried plantain strip added for crunch. Another highlight is the panko-crusted
shrimp, which are gigantic and juicy, and at five to an order, are a steal.
These menu items seem perfect for a late-evening, pre-boozing romp, and it is nice to see
Amendment's large kitchen being put to good use. As there really are no late-night options in this
neighborhood, and with the possibility of serving until 11PM or later Tuesday-Thursday, and
maybe until midnight Fridays, and even until 1 or 1:30 Saturdays, that is good news for locals.

Another local bar that has upped its game is the hamburger-fan favorite Kingdom, on a formerly
seedy stretch of Biscayne Boulevard. Okay, the occasional 'seed' may stroll by, but they seldom
linger, and a new branch of the British chain Balan's is going up across the street. Michy's is also
close by, so maybe the haute rubbed off a little on owners Justin and Tracy Hughes, who were
already known for their incomparable wings and burgers. But their customers kept asking for a
little more, so they added some more upscale items, like the all-lump farm-raised Crabcake Burger
($10.50), which has become a big seller. It's almost all crab, a big portion served on a toasted bun,
alongside crispy French Fries. Another big hit is the 'weekly risotto', of which the consensus
favorite seems to be the mushroom. Smooth and creamy, it isn't perfect; but it's a nice alternative to
more beer-oriented bar food. Yes, mushroom risotto in a sports bar, and no one seems to mind.

They also seem to run through a lot of filet mignon (as well as NY Strips and T-Bones), which is
odd for a sports bar, but even odder when you find out that the sauteed spinach side ($4), done in
garlic and Extra Virgin Olive Oil, is an even bigger seller, sometimes ordered as a main dish by
their vegetarian customers (shhhh, not too loud, this is a sports bar), along with Herb Mashed
Potatoes (3.50). Last week, friends fishing in Bimini brought back fresh conch, and conch ceviche
went on the menu, along with conch fritters. Conch can be both tough and bland, but these dishes
really brought out their flavor and freshness. There are plans to bring in fresh caught fish or
seafood every week, and they will mostly be prepared in the manner of their chicken breast, which
is sauteed and served in a white wine reduction. The list of Burgundy wines that might go with this
dish are limited-okay, there aren't any, but they do have wine. In any event, an ice-cold Presidente,
from the Dominican Republic, will do just fine. And if you are lucky enough to be served by the
lovely Estefani, the Latin Halle Berry, the humble surroundings, and the food served within them,
begin to look even more grand.

Amendment XXI
190 NE 46th St, Miami
305-571-7200
T,Th, Sat-6p-3a
F-5p-3a
Su-5p-12a

Kingdom
6708 Biscayne Blvd, Miami
305-757-0074
Su, Tu-Th-11:30a-11P
F, Sa, 11:30p-1a

Potrebbero piacerti anche