KNIT CAD AND STRUCTURES

Of all knitting technologies, the modern electronic V-bed flat machine, with its extensive
patterning and shaping capabilities, is unique in the.range of structures and shapes which can
be developed. This versatility has led to the development of complex cad/cam programs which
allow the programmer complete control of the knitted product.
All knitting machine cad programs work on a graphical interface which allows the designer to
input the knitted sample stitch for stitch. Each stitch will be represented by either an icon or
colour number which carries out a specific function. It is important to remember that in V -bed
flat knitting the basic building blocks of each knitted structure consists Knit, Tuck, Miss and
Transfer, however it is the combination of these build blocks which leads to numerous
permutations of structure.

Shima Seiki SDS ONE/APEX

Shima Seiki is one ofthe largest V- bed machine manufacturers in the world, they
produce complete design, patterning and programming systems called the SDS One and
SDS ONE- APEX, the APEX is their top of the line programming system with added
functionality. The cad software offers a range of functions from design artwork
preparation, to pattern drafting and cutting, to knit machine programming.
It is in the KnitPaint program that all knit structures are developed for the knitting
machine .
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Main menu screen for KnitPaint

Basic Operation
The SDS ONE uses a pen and graphics tablet, the pen is moved along the tablet to a
position relative to a point on the screen, it is important to remember that the pen is not a
mouse and each point on the tablet relates to a specific point on the screen.
Along the base ofthe KnitPaint screen an array of colour numbers is positioned
horizontally, with each colour number carrying out a specific action (see fig)

Basic Colour Operation list

KNIT
COLOUR NUMBER 1 • = FRONT BED KNIT [LINKS LINKS) •

COLOUR NUMBER 2
= BACK BED KNIT [LINKS LINKS) .st

COLOUR NUMBER 3
= FRONT & BACK BED KNIT ~
t
= FRONT KNIT [NO TRANSFER)
COLOUR NUMBER 51

= BACK KNIT [NO TRANSFER) ..Q.

COLOUR NUMBER 62 h

TUCK

COLOUR NUMBER 1111 =FRONT TUCK

COLOUR NUMBER 12 . = BACK TUCK

MISS
COLOUR NUMBER 0 • = NO NEEDLE SELECTION

= NO NEEDLE SELECTION
COLOUR NUMBER 16

TRANSFER

COLOUR NUMBER 6 = FRONT KNIT+ TRANSFER 1 POSITION LEFT

COLOUR NUMBER 7 D = FRONT KNIT + TRANSFER 1 POSITION RIGHT

COLOUR NUMBER 9 • = BACK KNIT+ TRANSFER 1 POSITION LEFT

COLOUR NUMBER g • = BACK KNIT+ TRANSFER 1 POSITION RIGHT

COLOUR NUMBER 20 . =FRONT KNIT+ TRANSFER TO BACK OPPOSITE NEEDL

COLOUR NUMBER 30 . =BACK KNIT+ TRANSFER TO FRONT OPPOSITE NEEDLI

 HOW TO CREAT A NEW SAMPLE

1 GO TO NEW IN THE TOP LEFT HAND CORNER AND DOUBLE CLICK

2
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2 STORE TO YOUR FOLDER

11
I INPUT FILE NAME

3 CHOOSE MACHINE TYPE AND GAUGE

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' "" [i50::l ~ -..
~ -- 4 INPUT SAMPLE SIZE

• ...,.,._ _ _ 5 CHOOSE KNI TTING TYPE EG STRUCTURE

---~Ejj~~--- 6 PRESS EXECUTE

3
-
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~~

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li -- INPUT COURSES X WALES IF YOU HAVE THE STITCH DENSITY
.....
PAIIFcl.dod rec.........
IF NOT SELECT DEFAULT

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ro--3 .....,._, fCF33 ... RI8Lioglh (iT:3 ...

SELECT OK

4 USING THE COLORS ARRANGED ALONG THE BOTTOM OF THE SCREEN PROGRAMME YOUR STRUCTURE
EACH COLOR NUMBER CARRIES OUT A SPECFIC FUNCTI ON
EXAMPLE
KNIT TUCK MISS
COLOUR I =FRONT BED KNIT COLOUR 11 =FRONT TUCK COLOUR 16 =NO SELECTION
COLOUR 2 = BACK BED KNIT COLOUR 12 = BACK TUCK
COLOUR 3 =FRONT AND BACK KNIT

HOW TO MAKE AN AREA AND COPY LINE DRAW C

) /.t:.__~ ::~j UNE TYPE
FIGURE DRAW ~ !ttJ C
!!!(] ENLARGE REDUCE
) ' i,. _#' C
I SELECT THE AREA ICON
SHADOW BIAS COPY
2 INPUT THE BOTTOM CORNER OF THE AREA WITH ONE PEN CLICK COLOUR CHANGE ~ ~ .a,_ C FLOOD FILL
FOLLOWED BY THE TOP CORNER OF THE AREA WITH ANOTHER PEN
CLICK INSERT DELETE . _ . .Jj-~ ~ ~ BASE PATTERN REPEAT
3 WHEN THE AREA IS CORRECT PRESS OK ON THE AREAD DIALOG AREA MOVE ) r ".J _::,..J + - - COPY MIRROR CHEVRON
AREA ) ..t;t C ERASE DISPLAY

HOW TO COPY AN AREA

1 MAKE AN AREA
2 SELECT THE COPY I CON
3 ON THE COPY DIALOG SELECT COPY MI RROR
OR CHEVRON
TO COPY POINT SET
L''
I SELECT COPY ON T HE MODE SECTION OF THE
COPY DIALOG
2 SELECT POINT SET ON THE TYPE SECTION OF
THE COPY DIALOG
3 PRESS EXECUTE
4 WITH YOUR PEN POSITION YOUR COPIED AREA
TO DESIRED LOCATION

HOW TO LINE COPY A SMALL AREA INTO A LARGER AREA

TO COPY LINE
I MAKE AN AREA OF THE PATTERN YOU WISH TO REPEAT
2 SELECT COPY ON THE MODE SECTION OF THE COPY DIALOG
3 SELECT UNE ON THE TYPE SECTION OFTHE COPY DIALOG
4 PRESS EXECUTE
5 SELECT COPY AREA ON THE LI NE COPY DIALOG
6MAKE A LARGER AREA YOU WISH TO COPY YOUR SMALLER AREA PATTERN INTO
7 PRESS EXECUTE
 WHEN YOUR PATTERN HAS BEEN DESIGNED SELECTS PAINT...._
A SERIES OF QUESTION WILL THEN BE ASKED

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1 /~Ov.lwr.t.Ot: ?

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SELECT YES

2
SELECT OK

SELECT EXECUTE
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ONCE YOU PRESS EXECUTE A SET OF LINES ARE DRAWN EITHER SIDE OF YOUR
PATTERN THESE ARE REFERRED TO AS OPTION LINES, WITH A SET OF RIGHT OPTION
LINES AND A SET OF LEFT OPTION LINES.
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EACH LINE CARRIES OUT A SPECFIC FUNCTION, ALL CARRIER INFORMATION,
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STITCH INFORMATION AND TAKEDOWN VALUES MUST BE INPUT TO THESE LINES .
SEE BELOW FOR A BREAK DOWN OF EACH LINE
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ANY YARN CARRIER CHANGE MUST BE CARRIED OUT IN R OP LINE 3

TO PROCESS PATTERN FOR MACHINE

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2 INPUT REPEAT FOR RIB 3 INUT YARN CARRIERS 4 CHECK YARN CARRIERS AND PRESS EXECUTE

1 CHOOSE YARN FOR RIB WASTE

Inputting a Pattern on the Screen

When drawing a stitch pattern on the KnitPaint screen it is recommended to zoom the
screen until a grid appears. Each square of the grid represent a stitch therefore a grid size
of 6 x 6 would represent 6 wales by 6 courses see fig

~
_.----7
EACH SQUARE UP _______,.
REPRESENTS A COURSE
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EACH SQUARE ACROSS REPRESENTS A WALE

Creating a Basic Knit Program

When creating your program, first, draw the pattern part with the relevant colour number
for the structure required (refer back to basic colour operation list) e.g.

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COLOUR NUMBER 1 II = FRONT BED KNIT (LINKS LINKS) .

COLOUR NUMBER 2
= BACK BED KNIT (LINKS LINKS) .Q.

COLOUR NUMBER 6 = FRONT KNIT + TRANSFER 1 POSITION LEFT

COLOUR NUMBER 7 D = FRONT KNIT + TRANSFER 1 POSITION RIGHT

 machines each knitted article has a rib at the base of the structure, this rib ensures a
finished edge which will not unravel. The most common use of ribs is at the welt or cuff
of a garment.
In electronic flat bed knitting the main supported rib structures are
• lxl ~gauge
• Tubular
• 2xl
• 2x2
Ribs are usually defined as the number of front wales X back wales, therefore a 2x2 rib
has 2 front wales by 2 back wales (see fig) If the rib required is larger than the supported
ribs it is usual to set up in lxl ~gauge and immediately transfer out to the required rib
(see Fig)

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Once the rib has been decided on and drawn, you must draw the automatic set up, this
consists of one line of co lours 1,2 ,3 and 4 repeated across the width of your pattern .The
2nd line is the exact same as the rib you've chosen . See below

FIRST 2 LINES= AUTOMATIC SET-UP

Function of Automatic Set-up

When knitting, some form of take-down force must be acting upon the fabric, this take-
down helps ensure the consistent quality of knitting and also ensures the knitabil ity of the
fabric. Without any take-down force acting upon the fabric the loops would rise up
between the needle beds affecting loop format ion.
On hand flat machines, after the first or set-up course of rib is taken by the needles, a
fabric comb is hand-inserted into it, upwards from under the needle beds, so that the
eyelet holes of the comb protrude above the course. The comb wire is then inserted
through the eyelets, over the set-up course, so that the comb is suspended from the
course, and a takedown weight is attached to it.
On Electronic machines this method is unsu itable as the force of an automated comb
would effect, distort and possibly destroy the set-up course, to circumvent this; the initial
courses are knitted in a low modul us yarn (hi gh stretch) which can take the strain of the
comb. Once the comb has attached itself to the elastomeric yarn, the yarns to be used in
the knitted article are knitted in attaching to the comb via the previous knitted course of
elastomeric yarn. A draw thread, which is a slippery nylon thread, is then used to separate
(after the knitting process) the waste yarn caught by the comb and the knitted fabric.
This process of comb insertion and waste knitting can take place over many knitted
courses, to simplify this; the automatic set up is drawn to automate the insertion of the
comb and waste knitting.
Similar to the Auto set-up is the Auto press off, this will automate the taking out and
gripping of yarns and also the pressing off of the knitted fabric. One line of colour 3 is
draw along the width of the program. See fig
Auto colours fo r set-up and press-off are not structure colours they represent automated
knitting data.

AUTOMATIC PRESS-OFF

••
• II
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 When kni tting, yarn carriers are used to deliver yarn to the active needles, once past the
active knitting zone the carriers need to be parked prior to the next knitted course. On
Hand-Flat machines this function is carried out by yarn carrier stop blocks, which
physically stop the carrier advancing past the block area. When creating a shaped sample
on Hand-fl at the carrier blocks have to be manually moved in relation to the width of
knitted course.
This method would be impractical on electronic machine so virtual stop blocks are
created on the knit program. For each knitted course a start and an end point are required,
colour number 13 is set either side of the structure program and always works in pairs,
the start and the end point of each knitted course

BY CHANGING THE POSITION

OF COLOUR 13 YOU CHANGE
THE PARKED POSITION OF
YARN CARRIER

CARRIER START
LEFT TO RIGHT

COLOUR 13 WORKS IN PAIRS

EACH SIDE OF KNITTED COURSE

Colour 13 is not a structure colour it sets the width to knit for the yarn carrier
Option lines

When knitting on the hand-flat the machine operator has to make many decisions and
choices on how to knit, Stitch size, take-down, speed, number of knit courses ,pattern
repeats and yarn carrier choice are all taken into consideration during the knit process.
When programming, this information also needs to be included, either side of the
structure pattern a set of 20 lines are positioned, these are referred to as option lines, a
right set and a left set. Each line represents a specific function during the knit process

LEFT OPTION LINES

When input information in the option lines you draw to the right of the right option
line and the left of the left option line

Basic Setting up of Option Lines

Rl Jump Economizer

A repeat area on the pattern is indicated by colour number 1, all repeat areas are even i.e.
2,4,6,8 etc multiply repeat areas can be set for the pattern see below

2 NO ECON SET REPEAT TO 3 IN AUTO PROCESS

1ST ECON SET REPEAT TO 3 IN AUTO PROCESS

PROGRAM

· - - - 2ND STRUCTURE REPEAT

- - - 1ST STRUCTURE REPEAT

ACTUAL KNrT
By altering the repeat setting on the machine various lengths of rib and structure can be
attained

R3 Yarn Carrier Change

For every line of knit instruction corresponding yarn carrier information is required. This
is input in R3; a colour number will act as an address for the yarn carrier information. It
is considered best practice to use the corresponding colour number for the yarn carrier
e.g. colour I =yarn carrier I colour 2 =yarn carrier 2 etc.

R3 Yarn Carrier

If there is a knit command on the pattern and no yarn carrier information is included in
R3 the knit fabric will press off the machine

For ever knit command you must have a yarn carrier selected

R4 Knit System Choice

Usually w hen knitting on a Hand-Flat; only 1 knit course is possible in any direction, this
is because there is only one set of raising and lowering cams front and back. However if
an additional cam box is placed beside the existing cam box there is now 2 sets of raising
and lowering cams front and back, so 2 courses can be knit in 1 direction this is now
effectively a 2 system machine . .
On electronic flat bed machines the number of systems can usually range between 2 and
6. In R3 the knit system is selected, if no colour is input the knit is single system if
however 2 squares of colour 6 followed by 2 squares of colour 7 are input the knit system
choice is 2 system. Consequently 3 squares of colour 6 followed by 3 squares of colour 7
are input the knit system choice is 3 system. See fig.
 COLOUR 0 = SINGLE SYSTEM

COLOUR 6,7 = DOUBL E SYSTEM

COLOUR 0 =SINGLE SYSTEM

WHEN KNITTING 2 SYSTEM

A DIFFERENT YARN ADDRESS
IS REQUIRE IN R3 R3 KNIT SYSTEM CHOICE
COLOUR 0 = SINGLE SYSTEM
COLOUR 6, 7 = DOUBLE SYSTEM

When knitting single system (1 System) only 1 yarn carrier is knit in 1 carriage
movement. When knitting double system (2 System) 2 yarn carriers are taken across in
1 carriage movement.

R 5 Knit Cancel and Carriage Move

Large amounts of program colour numbers consist of a knit and transfer command;
however in some instants the knit command is not required. Therefore in R5 colour
number 1 is included to cancel the knitting instruction. When using colour 1 in R5 no knit
commands are input on the corresponding structure line to the knit cancel line. See fig

........................
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STRUCTURE
=FRONT KNIT & TRANSFER 1 POSITION ~EFT
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0
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•

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!l • = FRONT KNIT & TRANSFER 1 POSITION RIGHT

•• I•
••••••
•• I• I•
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KNIT CANCE L
•••• •••• KNir'gA'rlSE~ I~

!.
••••• ••••• •••• •• • •• I.Z§E ; =FRONT TRANSFER 1 POSITION ~ EFT

•••••• •••••• •• I• • •• 0
li •
•••••• I • 11 • = FRONT TRANSFER 1 POSITION RIGHT

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••INSTRUCTIOS
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Carriage Move

Usually when knitting with more than one yarn carrier, it is considered good practice to
keep all knit courses even to finish knitting on the side where the next carrier is
positioned. However this is not always possible, when you finish a yarn carrier on the
opposite side to the next chosen yarn carrier you can input a command, colour number 2,
to move the cam box to the correct side to select the next yarn
When inputting rack commands

• co lour 1 = 1 rack position

• co lour 2 = 2 rack position etc

L4 Racking left/right

When racking the machine can move either left or right. With colour 0 in L 4 the racking
will be to the right and with colour 1 the racking will be to the left. In the above pattern
the stitch is being deflected right and left, but there is no left command in L 4 this is
because all the racking is to the right of 0 position see below

"0 " POSITION IS THE

DEFAULT POSITION OF THE
NEEDLE BEDS IN RELATION
TO EACH OTHER
LS & 6 Knit & Transfer Speed

When nothing is input in L5 & 6 the pattern will be automatically knit on a high speed if
additional speeds are required see below
• Colour 0 = High speed
• Colour 1 = Low speed
• Colour 2 = Middle speed
• Colours11-17=Speeds1-7

L5 inputs the knit speeds

L6 input the transfer speeds

L1 0 & 11 Knit and transfer Take down

When programming various knit structures it may be necessary to change the takedown
tensions on the fabric this can be achieved by inputting different colour numbers in L 10
for knit and 111 for transfer, the colour number provides an address on the machine to
make a takedown adjustment
R 6 Stitch Size

To indicate stitch setting a colour no is input in R6, any colour number between 1 and 44
can be input. Col 0 in R 6 defaults to stitch address 5 on the machine
Please note
THE COLOUR NUMBER DOES NOT INDICATE STITCH SIZE IT REPRESENTS AN
ADDRESS ON THE STITCH MENU OF THE MACHINE WHERE THE ACTUAL
STITCH SIZE IS INPUT

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ACTUAL

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STITCH SIZE

R 6 STITCH INPUT

R8 Yarn-in I Yarn-out

Sometimes during kn itting it is necessary to move a carrier to its rest position outside of
the knit area. To move a carrier out input colour number 31on the last knitted row of the
carrier. If the carrier is later used for knitting colour number 32 is input on the first row of
knitting to bring the carrier back in.

Rl 0 Gripper & Cutter

When knitting on a hand-flat you must manually tie the yarn ends onto the side of the
machine to secure them before knitting. This process is carried out automatically when
you input colour number 4 1 in R 10, the yarns are gripped and cut by a gripper device at
the side of the machine. The colour can be positioned anywhere in the first 20 courses
except in the rib economizer.

NB NEVER OPERATE THE GRIPPER & CUTTER ON THE MACHINE UNLESS

SUPERVISED BY THE RELEVANT MEMBER OF STAFF
Rll Stitch Presser

The stitch presser is attached to the cam box and can be activated by input colour number
1 in R 11. When activated, the stitch presser will drop down between the needle beds and
push the knitted fabric down.

Generally it is recommended that the stitch presser be turned off for knitting 1x 1 all
needle structure

Stitch Presser out of action Stitch Presser in action

LEFT OPTION LINES

L2 RACKING POSITION

On flat-bed knitting machines racking is a very important function which facilitates stitch
transfer and movement. When racking one needle bed is laterally moved in relation to the
opposite needle bed, usually the back needle bed is displaced.
When programming with colour numbers e.g. 92 (back knit and move 2 positions left) the
software will organize the racking sequence there is no need to input additional racking
information in L2
WHEN TO USE L2

Initially the most common use for L2 will be in the creation of Racked stitch patterns. By
raking you deflect one set of stitches in relation to another