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step 7: Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
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http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
intro: Modular, Windowsill, Air Powered, Hydroponics Herb Garden/Experimenter
Although this is an evolution of previously entered work, there has been significant changes to the whole modular idea as well as some control mechanisms added.
I have learned along the way that the back flow of air through the pump IS definitely a problem, especially when working with air tight systems or relatively low height
water columns. For this reason, I have added two mechanism to aid with the control of the fill and drain cycles. I have also added a central "manifold" through which all
air flows, allowing for expansion/experimentation.
The air escaping through the planters, when the reservoir empties, was also a problem, so I added a separate bottle that I call a bubbler. The bubbler redirects the
escaping air and reduces the bubble size, reducing splashing, vibrations and effectively extending the pump on time. I suppose it could be used as a planter as well.
Don't know what you'd call the bubble method.
The MODULARITY has been expanded so that the "HUB" of the system is the Bubbler and the TEE below. Everything else is swappable. You can change reservoirs
and/or reservoir types as well as "planter lines" and types of planters at your whim. This allows for experimentation and expansion without having to disturb that which
does need to be disturbed.
I do plan on improving/screwing with stuff as time goes on and required a "productive" window sill garden that accommodates different designs and methods, without
starting from scratch each time. This what I've come up with and hope to be adding "Modules" as time goes on.
Image Notes
1. Connect Air pump hose
2. Insert the tip of one air hose into 13/64 inch hole in reservoir cap.
3. Insert DWC unit's air hose into manifold hole.
4. cup hook pipe clip
5. Reservoir filled with tea for easy viewing.
WHAT I DID
1. Drill one each 5/16 inch and 13/64 inch holes in the cap as shown.
2. Cut both ends of the 2 ft length of tube on an angle as shown.
3. Thread the 2 ft length of tube through the 5/16 inch hole in the cap as shown.
4. On the end of the same tube, that will be outside of the bottle (cap orientation), slip the 7/16 and 1/2 inch pieces over each other as shown to form an adapter.
5. This adapter will leak without tension applied, so hot melt glue as shown to seal.
5.Place cap on bottle and adjust tube so it reaches the bottom of the inside of the bottle.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
Image Notes
1. apply glue to pieces with CPVC collar slid back to expose inner sleeve and Image Notes
then slip into place immediately to get the results in the next frame. 1. Inner sleeve is now recessed forming a "meniscus" type curve glue seal at one
end and a strain relief at the other.
2. Strain relief
3. Angular edge helps keep bubbles flowing in low pressure situations. You'll see
what I mean. Actually you won't unless to mess with it. In low pressure
conditions, surface tension becomes a big player and will act as a shut off valve.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
step 2: Bubbler Assy
WHAT I USED
WHAT I DID
1. Drill 13/64 inch "vent" hole in the bottom of the bottle as shown.
2. Strip mesh bag(s) of anything other than mess, such as labels or string.
3. Loosely stuff mesh into bottle as shown. Evenly distribute inside bottle to avoid channels where large bubbles can form and run.
4. Drill a 9/16 inch hole into cap and expand with a piece of 1/2 inch CPVC tubing as shown. Place cap on bottle.
5. Place the TEE on one end of the 1 inch piece of CPVC tubing and the bubbler bottle on the other as shown.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
Image Notes
1. Angled tip makes it a much easier to open hole.
Image Notes
1. I originally used a fine mesh to break the bubbles up finer, but later removed it
as it was counter productive. Please disregard the white mesh in any other photos.
1 ea 2L pop bottle
1 ea small pop bottle w/cap
1 ea 13 inch piece of 7/16 inch Vinyl tubing (mine was a 12 inch scrap and was minimally long enough)
Hot melt glue
Approx. 4 inch piece of coat hanger wire
1 ea aquarium air stone
1/4 inch aquarium air tubing as required... at least 1 foot
WHAT I DID
1. Cut a 5/16 inch slot in one of the recessed groves on the bottom of the 2L bottle as shown.
2. Cut one end of the 7/16 inch tubing on an angle and insert same end just inside the slot. Put tension on the tube and glue in place as shown. I used two elastics to
secure will glue cooled, which are in the rest of the pics and are not necessary, but could be used as min/max markers.
3. Bend wire as shown and use it as a clip, at the neck of the bottle, to secure other end of 7/16 inch tubing in a vertical position.
4. Cut a 1 inch hole near the top of the bottle, opposite the tube.
5. Using scizzors, cut the neck off of the small bottle and insert into 1 inch hole as shown. Use a small bottle as they are not "flared" like the 2L are and it makes for easier
insertion into the 1 " hole.
6. Drill a 13/64 inch hole into the cap.
7. Insert air tube through through 13/64 inch hole and put the air stone on the end that will be inside the bottle (again, cap orientation).
8. Put cap on the "side" cap and adjust tube so that the air stone rests on the bottom.
NOTE : Stones, and any submerged hole for that matter, will clog over time changing the associated rates. Routine observations of the full cycle wouldn't hurt to keep
wandering variants under control if necessary.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
Image Notes Image Notes
1. slot 1. Hose fits "smoothly" through slot without kinking to rest on the bottom.
2. reused tube, please excuse discoloration.
Image Notes
1. Bottle neck clips in here.
2. Level indicator/Siphon tube clips in here. If not held vertical, it will fall and
siphon the nutrient onto floor or other most inconvenient place. Trust me on this
one.
Image Notes
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
1. Hole magically appeared one step too early.
Image Notes
1. Used to siphon nutrients without disturbing plant as well as a level indicator. In
real life, the reservoir would be opaque to prevent algae growth.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
Image Notes
1. Fill station and air hose holder. Not secured with glue, so DO NOT over
tighten cap. It will be difficult to remove as neck will spin.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
Image Notes
1. Discard rubber bands when glue completely cooled or use as min/max level
indicators.
WHAT I DID
1. Drill four equally spaced 1.25 inch holes at 4.5 inch centers w.r.t. each other. (same spacing as a pop case)
2. Build "interface" from bottle cap to I/2 inch CPVC connectors. Please see pics below for details. I made 3 using detergent caps and 1 from a pop bottle cap.
3. Secure bottles and "interfaces" through holes as shown.
4. Interconnect the bottles using 1/2 inch CPVC or Vinyl tubing. I use Vinyl for this because of its' "flexibility", excuse the pun, but would probably use CPVC in a larger or
permanent setup for its' rigidity.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
Image Notes
1. Sunlight detergent bottle cap
2. 1/2 inch Vinyl tube "sleeve"
3. 1/2 inch CPVC TEE
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
Image Notes Image Notes
1. Same cap 1. Insert Vinyl tube and cap flush against TEE or elbow connector. Trim Vinyl
2. Trim so that CPVC connector butts flush against bottle cap. tube as required so that cap butts up against the CPVC connector.
3. 90 degree elbow used for end of last planter in row.
Image Notes
1. funnels
Image Notes 2. Empty planter
1. Interconnect with tubing and secure caps in place, if desired, by gluing to
wood holes for greater planter stability. Glue only caps to wood to maintain
"removeability" of all other pieces.
2. 1/2 inch Vinyl tubing or CPVC. CPVC would provide yet greater support as
well eliminate the danger of coming loose, but requires greater accuracy when
cutting.
3. To bubbler or feed line.
Please note that a gang valve, with it's individual line controls, would be preferred for multiple lines, but for those who do not require such controls................
WHAT I USED
WHAT I DID
PRESTO - A one input / two output (at least in this case) air pressure manifold with a passive, adjustable, pressure relief valve. Please excuse any incorrect terminology.
Additional holes (ports) could be added as required until maximum air usage limit is reached or reservoir no longer empties completely.
Image Notes
1. Ports for 1/4 inch aquarium air tubing.
2. Tapped 1/64 inch hole. Will be used as a controlled leak to vent pressure if necessary.
3. Slot in self tapping screw works as an adjustable air valve when screwed in and out. DWC unit not actually required, to aid with drain cycle, with the addition of
this.
4 ea 2L pop bottles
WHAT I DID
In the photos, only one is complete, the other three are for demonstration purposes only.
Image Notes
1. 13/64 hole
2. Hole
3. Hole
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
4. Hole
5. Hole
6. Hole
Image Notes
1. It's difficult to see, but it's inverted and being inserted.
step 7: Assembly
You are on your own for a support structure. I used what I had on hand and the rules are simply dictated by gravity.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
Image Notes Image Notes
1. Shelving SO UGLY, camera refuses to focus on it. 1. Add one Modular Reservoir
2. Vinyl dipped cup hook, ever soooo conventiently, makes great 1/2 " CPVC
pipe clip.
3. Ignore this hook, it just holds measuring spoons.
4. Air pump and timer
5. Completed unit of slightly different construction hiding out of frame.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
Image Notes
1. Connect Air pump hose
2. Insert the tip of one air hose into 13/64 inch hole in reservoir cap.
3. Insert DWC unit's air hose into manifold hole.
4. cup hook pipe clip
5. Reservoir filled with tea for easy viewing.
FILL CYCLE
Pump comes on and pressurizes the manifold, initiating the emptying of the reservoir up the tube and into the Flood and Drain unit, as well as the bubbling of the air
stone in the DWC unit. This continues until the reservoir completely empties or equilibrium is reached between the opposing forces. It can be "tuned", and will be
discussed seperately. As the reservoir empties, the bubbles will be redirected, largely, up the tube and into the bubbler rather than the air stone.
The greater the resistance from the air stone, the faster and more completely the reservoir will empty.
DRAIN CYCLE
Pump goes off and the water that has evacuated the reservoir returns under the force of gravity. The returning nutrient pushes the air up and out, into the manifold, and
out through the DWC air stone as well as any other leak available. The bubbling of the air stone will reduce as the weight of the returning nutrient diminishes, until all of
the nutrient returns or an equilibrium of the opposing forces is reached. This can be easily tuned as well.
Video
Video
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
TUNING
Tuning is achieved by varying the opposing forces, such as gravity and air pressure. Generally speaking, gravity affects various "thresholds", while air pressure affects
rates and the ability to reach the thresholds or a state of equilibrium. At least in my understanding and my ability to explain same. Lets just say, it's a balancing act.
The effects of gravity can easily be varied, and observed, by increasing or decreasing the height of the planters w.r.t. the reservoir or by varying the depth of the air stone
in the DWC unit.
The effects of air pressure, acting against gravity, can be regulated by the porosity of the air stone in the DWC unit, by varying the depth of the "self tapping screw valve"
in the manifold or reservoir lid, or any other method of controlling the "air tightness" between the air pump and the reservoir.
Using air tightness only, one can overcome the issues with the slow drain rates regardless of pump used, as long as it can supply enough air and pressure that is. With
the DWC unit eliminated, the excess air will simply vent out the screw valve thingy.
NOTE: Only one complete system can go onto any one individual pump because of the pressure loss that will occur when/if the reservoir empties. Any slower systems
will stop filling, and start draining, when the first one starts bubbling. One larger, shallow reservoir would be preferred over multiple reservoirs in larger systems.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
Image Notes Image Notes
1. Reservoir almost empty 1. Pump on, fill cycle complete and held in flood conditions until pump turned
2. Vigorous bubbling increases in DWC as nutrient level drops in reservoir. off.
3. Pump on, fill cycle almost complete. 2. Reservoir empty, air now following the path of least resistance up tube,
instead of through the air stone.
3. No more bubbles or very few.
4. Nutrient suspended until pump on cycle is over. Also notice NO bubbles. If
you see bubbles at this point, decrease resistance inside bubbler by removing
mesh.
5. Air routed through bubbler and broken up to reduce noise and vibrations
caused by large bubbles breaking the surface. The louder noise is coming from
the reservoir.
6. Nutrient level in filled planters (1 ea 2L bottle and 3 ea 710 ml), would
overflow if reservoir was filled. Approximately 1 inch from the top of the gravel.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
Image Notes
1. Pump off, drain cycle going on and on.
2. Bubbles diminish to near nothing until drain cycle complete. Will act as a
switch and stop the drain cycle if stone is too deep and system is air tight.
3. It will drain completely. If it does not, system is too air tight and needs to be
tuned accordingly with screw valve or DWC levels.
Image Notes
1. Adjustable rate, self tapping screw valve thingy. The finer the thread the
better. You can make one by crimping the threads of a soft metal screw so that
a channel has been cut into the threads, up the side of the screw.
2. DWC line disconnected and plugged.
Image Notes
1. No DWC. Flood and drain cycles the same, except excess air is vented
instead of rerouted.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
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Comments
13 comments Add Comment
The horizontal reservoirs could then be shelved vertically without the need of expensive water pumps pushing great heights of water. The "shelving"
would have to support the weight of the nutrient anyway....... I could go on and on and on...
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
tabletopphoto says: Dec 5, 2008. 11:32 PM REPLY
Okay. I'm starting to get it. Atleast I believe I am. The dwc is a means to reuse air that would other wise be lost. That is efficient.! 'm not a person who
can read plans well and actually need to see the finished product in action to completely understand.
I hope you could post a video showing the whole system in action, and for those of us who start out a bit slow, explain what is going on. That would
be really useful for pple like me who don't always get something unless you draw us a picture (or vid)
These philodendrons are great for testing conditions because they show the signs of stress immediately, but haaaannnnng onnnnn
forever and then bounce right back when given favorable conditions. It does look a bit better and there is a rootless piece that broke off in
there too. I want to see if the roots will take under these conditions as well.
Anyway, I just set it up to go off six times a day for 4 minutes which should drive the flood and drain cycles near perfectly. The plants will
be the proof of anything, although I do have a habit of stressing them on purpose.
Also, I don't understand if air pressure is rising, pushing up the water in the planters, why would the bubbles be decreasing in the DWC? Wouldn't you get
more and more bubbles as the water level in the planters increased?
You've clearly put a lot of effort in explaining how you built everything and did a wonderful job I might add. But maybe a little more explanation as to why
decided to do some of the things in the first place. I understand the bubbler just not the DWC.
I don't mean to be a downer. I actually think this project is brilliant and I don't even know what that DWC is for. After I figure that out I'm sure I'll be blown
away.
In my previous designs posted, people were having problems getting the drain cycle working due to air tightness. I did eventually as well, requiring me to
solve my own problem. Having a DWC unit available, I tried it out and it worked. It was only an afterthought to add the manifold and screw valve as a
simpler fix.
All of my designs will be moving toward accessing everything for maintenance/replacement w/o disturbing the rest. With that in mind, I will explain the
DWC unit's design when it could've just been an unmodified bottle.
The hole in the side is for filling with a funnel and for access to the air stone, separate from the opening that the plant is in. Once the plant is secured, I
use polyester fibre for aquarium pumps, you would not be able to access the nutrient w/o the second hole. I attached the tube at the bottom so that I
could drain the waste nutrient, again w/o disturbing anything else. It also would allow me to view the nutrient level once the bottle is covered back up to
protect the roots from light. Plants also might not like being tipped upside down once past the seedling stage. You are correct, it is a leak waiting to
happen. The DWC unit is a Deep Water Culture is unit meant to grow plants, not just bubble air through it.
Once the air starts travelling up the tube, it becomes the path of least resistance to the air. The pressure increases until that point, as do the bubbles. At
that point, the larger bubbles travelling up the tube MUST be easier. It surprised me too.
I would like someone to explain to me why I do the things I do. Looks like were both out of luck on that one......
Although I think I've already answered this, I'll be clear. The DWC is actually a separate planter using a different growing technique. It is unnecessary,
but was available to be added to the beast to solve a problem so I MacGyvered it in. I also plan on building more completely useless "modules" to add to
it whenever I can. For no reason other than, I can and virtually for free. Someone somewhere said something about air powered aquaponics. Hmmm.....
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Modular_Windowsill_Air_Powered_Hydroponics_Herb_Ga/