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Sustainability & Innovation

Post-Coronavirus – Defensive Textiles


Protective materials will become central to everyday living as hygiene and protection ramps up in light of
the coronavirus pandemic, and pollution increases as a result of the climate emergency

Micr o ban
Overview
Concerns about personal health, hygiene and
protection will top the consumer priority list as a
result of the Covid-19 pandemic. Textiles that
reassure us and shield us from disease and
pollution, as called out in WGSN'S Big Ideas report,
will now command more consideration, offering
added value and margin protection.
Sanitising and microbe-fighting materials from the
healthcare sector are making the jump into the
apparel and sports sectors, and are being presented
as wellness technologies.
Fear of further pandemics will result in more
immediate relevance for fibres and finishes that
can defend against airborne illness.
With air pollution increasing, 91% of the world’s
population now lives in places where air quality
exceeds the World Health Organization's guideline
limits. Materials that filter air, absorb carbon or
self-clean toxins will prepare us for environments
that are already being altered by climate change.
This report analyses key developments in health-
promoting and protective textiles, and highlights
case studies and potential uses for apparel.

T he Wat er N et wo r k
Action Points
Safety and wellbeing materials are set to become a
trading differential in challenging times.
1. Revisit existing antimicrobial solutions and
lead in innovation by piloting the new anti-viral
finishes and technologies coming to market.
2. Be alert to sustainability credentials. Synthetic
and chemical compounds such as metals or
triclosan ending in landfills or leaching into
wastewater post-purchase have environmental
concerns.
3. Capitalise on the natural comfort and skin-
friendly benefits of bio-based plant- and protein-
derived fibres and particles to enhance your
wellness selling credentials.
4. Anti-pollution protection will become a key
selling point, so engineer materials to filter out,
absorb or resist carbon and other contaminants.
5. Carefully assess the benefits of innovations
against any detrimental side-effects around
absorption and long-term bacterial resistance.

@zhijunwang
Context

Anti-Viral
Defenses 
Why are they relevant now? With Covid-19 pandemic,
global interest in masks and protective clothing has Po ly giene
rocketed, and post-virus, consumer fears about further
outbreaks will fuel a demand for material innovations
that can safeguard health.
Application: High-grade anti-viral materials and finishes
are set to extend beyond medical-wear into mainstream
apparel, as health fears drive these innovations into
workwear and, ultimately, apparel and accessories.
Overview: Scientists, researchers and manufacturers are
racing to test existing antimicrobial technologies and
materials against this virus, or fast-track in-development
anti-viral innovations into the market. H eiQ Car r ingt o n T ext iles
Anti-viral and antimicrobial solutions are continually in
development for the healthcare sector to enable
hospitals to protect against outbreaks, but as pandemic Key ingredients and technologies: zinc oxide, silver, graphene, glycoproteins,
threats subside, some innovations created to deal with ultrasonic technology
health risks are modified to make them commercially
Key innovators: Virustatic, Pincroft – Carrington Textiles, Sonovia, LIGC Applications –
viable as consumer-centred performance or wellness
G-Volt, Devan – BI-OME AV, HeiQ – Viroblock NPJ03, Polygiene – ViralOff
offerings. Examples include hygiene-promoting and self-
cleaning technologies, and we expect anti-viral tech will Brand adoption: Kayser-Roth, Lufeng
follow the same trajectory and move into apparel. 
Case Studies

Anti-Viral Defenses
Companies are racing against time to Israeli textile company Sonovia
bring anti-viral tech to the market. Ltd is looking to scale-up on anti-
pathogen fabric for medical and
Textile treatments: In March HeiQ fast-
consumer face masks. Its nano-
tracked the launch of anti-viral and
antimicrobial coating Viroblock coating innovation uses sound
NPJ03. The coating is already being waves to actively embed
used by Chinese mask producer antibacterial non-toxic zinc oxide Clinical T r ials Ar ena Dezeen

Suzhou Bolisi. US leg-wear producer into fabric, which is deadly to


Kayser-Roth is said to be interested for microbes.
hand protectors, while Lufeng, China, Germ trap: Manchester biochemists
is looking at the potential for apparel. have developed a “germ trap” snood,
Belgian firm Devan worked with called the Virustatic Shield, following
Institut Pasteur de Lille in France to a 10-year project, which has now
test its BI-OME AV antibacterial been rushed into production. The
coating for corona- and rotaviruses, fabric coating uses glycoproteins to
reporting back strong to excellent trap 96% of airborne viruses. The
results, and Polygiene has gone back snood moulds to the face with a
to its healthcare roots to launch universal fit, and will be supplying
ViralOff - a textiles treatment that the UK's National Health Service,
claims to reduce viruses by over 99% among others.
over two hours. Graphene filter: LIGC Applications
has just launched Guardian G-Volt –
a face mask with a graphene S o no via
filtration system that is sterilised via
electrical charges so that it can be
safely reused.
Context

Antimicrobial
Metals
Why are they relevant now? Post Covid-19, consumers
will continue to be hyper hygiene-aware in all areas of Fut ur e Mar ket s
their lives, and this will include clothing and products.
Application: Antimicrobial innovations can safeguard
against bacteria-causing odour, offering reassurance and
helping repeatedly worn underwear, leg-wear, athleisure,
sportswear and next-to-skin apparel stay fresh for
longer. 
Overview: Originally used in medicine, inorganic active
metals of silver, zinc, copper, titanium, magnesium –
even gold – are anti-microbial, and while they are
arguably safe for humans, concerns have been cited
about skin absorption toxicity and skin irritation. Resist ex Lululemo n
The metals inhibit bacteria by releasing ions when
exposed to moisture or sweat. Silver is commonly used
for apparel – useful when blended with cottons and silks Key ingredients: silver, copper, zinc, titanium, magnesium, gold
that are bacteria-prone due to their hydrophilic and
Key innovators: Q-Skin, Fulgar, Microban – SilverShield and ZPTech, Noble Biomaterials
porous nature.
Inc. – Silverescent, HeiQ – HeiQ Pure and HeiQ Fresh, Nylstar – Meryl Skinlife,  Dow –
Zinc salts and oxides have lasting antimicrobe efficacy Silvadur, Silpure, Sonovia Ltd, Resistex
when solution-deposited on nylon, polyester and cotton.
Brand adoption: Lululemon, Macron, Patagonia, adidas, Arc'teryx, Polartec, Under
And copper, used in healthcare, has superior anti-viral,
Armour, Skinners & Bonny Silver Socks
antibacterial, anti-fungal and anti-allergenic benefits. Its
ability to kill viruses within minutes make it a potential
game-changer for anti-viral textile defences.
Case Studies

Antimicrobial Metals:
Silver
Synthetic fibres such as polyester, Q-SKIN from Fulgar is a soft and
nylon and elastane retain odour, which breathable Nylon 6.6 polyamide yarn
is not prevented by washing alone. made with silver ions inserted directly
during the spinning process, making
As silver is antibacterial and anti-
fungal, it has been adopted by active, the antimicrobial benefit permanently
intimates, socks and apparel brands to embedded in the yarn. The yarn is
make their gear stay fresher for longer. quick-dry and easy-care, and it is used
by sportswear brands such as
Macr o n Mer y l
Silver solutions: HeiQ also has a range Macron, which makes its technical
of highly wash-durable silver- and bio- underwear with the yarn.
based odour-control textile
Brand innovation: Lululemon's
innovations including HeiQ Pure and
HeiQ Fresh. Silverescent line, powered by X-STATIC
technology, infuses 99.9% pure silver
Nylstar's Meryl Skinlife technology directly into the yarn fibre via a
incorporates inherent silver micro partnership with Noble Biomaterials
particles, with claimed effectiveness Inc. Benefits of the silver technologies
tested after 100 washes at 40ºC. include odour elimination, infection
Microban's SilverShield tech and prevention, biometric monitoring and
ZPTech innovations are effective conductive protection.
against bacteria, mould and mildew, By combining silver-infused yarn with
and commonly used by more than 60 nylon and spandex, the silver stays in
leading althleisure, sports, apparel and the garment.
footwear brands in fibres and textiles.

Lululemo n Lululemo n
Context

Self-Cleaning
Why are they relevant now? As garment aftercare comes
under scrutiny by conscious consumers, self-cleaning Which
clothes could positively impact the environment by
conserving water and energy, saving on the impacts and
costs of laundry and dry-cleaning, and also offering anti-
odour benefits.
Application: Self-cleaning technologies will protect
regularly worn items such as underwear, leg-wear, socks,
athleisure, sports gear and apparel from repeated over-
washing, prolonging garment lifespans.
Overview: There are two self-cleaning nanotechnology
routes. Photocatalytic cleaning uses titanium oxide or
zinc oxide to decompose stains into water and carbon Wo o l & Pr ince Labf r esh
dioxide in the presence of UV light.
The bio-mimic water- and dirt-repellency route repels
bacteria so it is removed by rain or rinsing in water. The Key ingredients and technologies: zinc oxide, titanium oxide, silver, copper, silica,
tech was inspired by wicking properties of the lotus leaf, fluorocarbons, nanotechnology, chlorine halamine, essential oils
which keeps it bacteria free.
Key innovators: Polygiene – Wear More. Wash Less, Schoeller Textiles – NanoSphere,
Researchers at RMIT University in Melbourne have grown Labfresh – FreshCore, Sanitized – Miniactiv (peppermint oil), Woolmark
copper and silver-based nano-structures directly on to
Brand adoption: Pangaia, Unbound Merino, Wool & Prince, adidas, Patagonia, Tommy
fabric that degrade matter in UV, paving the way for self-
Hilfiger Sport, Western Rise
cleaning under light or when worn out in the sun.
Case Studies

Self-Cleaning
Numerous tech companies and brand Essential oils: Eco-brand Pangaia has
innovators are re-engineering clothes launched seaweed and organic cotton
to tackle over-washing. T-shirts treated with peppermint oil for
antibacterial and anti-fungal
Cleaning tech: Swedish company
Polygiene has been leading on wash- properties, with a target of extending
less tech for more than 10 years. Its the time between washes by 10 times.
Wear More. Wash Less treatment with This is estimated to save 3,000 litres
silver ions prevents odour-causing of water in every garment.
Pangaia Wo o l&
bacteria, which means every other Wash-less wools: Unbound Merino
wash can be skipped. The company claims its travel-wear lasts weeks
has partnered with more than 140 without washing, with superfine
brands, including Patagonia, adidas merino tees that are fast-dry, anti-
and Tommy Hilfiger Sport. odour and thermoregulating. Wool &
Performance textiles mill Schoeller's Prince makes everything from shirts
protein-based NanoSphere technology to boxers in wool, designed for
is water-, oil- and dirt-repellent, as well infrequent laundering, and sister
as washing- and abrasion-resistant. brand Wool& sells dresses created to
be worn for 100 days without
Smart shirts: Menswear brand Labfresh washing. Most recently, performance
claims it makes the "smartest shirts in brand Western Rise teamed with The
the world", with patented FreshCore Woolmark Company for The Limitless
tech that combines hydrophobic, Merino Wool Shirt, which is made for
antibacterial and easy-care functions everyday wear.
for odour and stain-free 100% cotton
shirts.
Unbo und Mer ino Wo o l & Pr ince
Context

Naturally
Healthy
Why are they relevant now? Natural antibacterial plant-
or protein-based sources appeal to sustainably minded H KS T ext ile
customers as well as the holistic wellness market.
Application: Natural ingredients can be organic,
renewable and biodegradable, and blended with other
nature-derived fibres to create soft, cooling materials for
underwear, leg-wear, athleisure, sports and ready-to-
wear. 
Overview: The sea provides health-inducing ingredients,
including chitosan from crab shells and shellfish, ocean
collagen peptides from fish scales (with anti-infection
and antibacterial benefits), and seaweeds and algaes
(rich in essential vitamins, amino acids and minerals to Aest het ic S t o r ies O r ganic Basics
reduce irritation, soothe, and regenerate skin cells). 
Plants also have bio-based benefits. Silica, found in flax,
is antiseptic, anti-viral, antimicrobial and anti-fungal, Key ingredients: chitin (crab shell), algae, seaweed, fish-scale collagen, Tencel, lyocell,
while hemp's antibacterial activity is activated in its bamboo viscose, kapok, flax, hemp, jute, spider silk (yeast), casein (milk) soy
cannabinoid compound. Cellulosic fibres such as lyocell
Key innovators: Lenzing – Tencel, Smartfiber AG – SeaCell, Swicofil – Crabyon, Pozzi
are hypoallergenic, cooling and antibacterial, and
Electa, BioSmart – Milliken Textiles, KenDor Textiles – Umorfil, Pyrates – Pyratex, Bolt
bamboo viscose has anti-microbe bio-agents living in the
Threads
fibre.
Brand adoption: Pangaia, Cos, ADAY, DueDiLatte, Reformation, Athleta, J-Crew Organic
Protein-derived milk fibres such as casein and yeast-
Basics, ASICS, Bamboo Clothing, adidas, Stella McCartney
based micro-silks also offer antimicrobial skin-friendly
comfort. 
Case Studies

Naturally Healthy 
Sea-soothed: Brands seeing the Protein-enriched: Italian brand
benefits of algae-based fibre SeaCell DueDiLatte launched unisex T-shirts
include Cos and ADAY, with soft, kind- from sour milk, resulting in a soft,
to-skin T-shirts touting the benefits of anti-allergenic fabric, extending into
antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. babywear thanks to the skin-kind
Swiss company Swicofil's Crabyon qualities of the fibre.
yarn is antibacterial, odour-controlling, Brand innovation: Keeping with
biodegradable, naturally protein, Stella McCartney exploited
ad id as x S t ella
Bambo o Clo t hing McCar t ney
hypoallergenic for sensitive skin, and antimicrobial peptides in bio-factured
features in technical yarns from Italian spider silk yarn by biotech innovator
spinner Pozzi Electa. Made of ocean Bolt Threads to create a dress, then
collagen peptide from recycled fish
blended it with cellulose for the
scales, Umorfil yarn is soft, high- adidas x Stella McCartney Biofabric
wicking and deodorising. Tennis Dress launch in 2019.
Plant-based: Bamboo Clothing has Wellbeing blends: Smart textiles mill
built its brand on the eco-credentials Pyrates makes luxurious knits
of bamboo fibre, grown in sustainably designed for wellbeing. It has
managed bamboo forests in China’s launched Pyratex Cosmetic, made
Chongqing province.The brand's gym, with seaweed, as well as a sweat-
training, yoga and loungewear offer management yarn, Pyratex Power in
the natural comfort and antibacterial micro Tencel, and a Freshness quality
benefits of bamboo fibre. made of bamboo. The company also
launched a sustainable yoga line with
ASICS to celebrate International
Women's Day in 2020. Dued ilat t e O r ganic Basics
Context

Carbon
Compounds
Why are they relevant? Carbon fibres have future
potential for protection and performance. Activated Resist ex
Carbon Cloth, first invented by the British Ministry of
Defence for chemical warfare suits, has super-light
strength, durability, electrical conductivity and anti-UV
resistance, as well as toxin-absorbing behaviours.
Application: Carbon-derivative graphene has been piloted
for its strength and resistance by leading outdoor, denim
and sneaker brands. And carbon's ability to improve the
electrical performance in the body, aid blood circulation,
supply oxygen to cells, fuel workout resistance and
reduce muscle fatigue has big potential for sportswear. 
Overview: Activated charcoal is a fine, odourless black Menagf n Vo llebak
powder made of carbon-rich sources such as bamboo,
coconut shells, wood and olive pits. Also from coal,
processing coal for carbon fibre is stated to produce less
Key ingredients: carbon, charcoal (bamboo, coconut shell, oak, olive pit, bone char, peat,
CO2 than burning it for fuel. Charcoal is "activated" at
coal, sawdust), graphene, graphite, volcanic ash
high temperatures and nano particles are embedded into
fibres. Key innovators: Tecnofilati – Resistex Carbon, Evertech Envisafe Technology, Sciessent –
 Lava XL (volcanic ash), Directa Plus – G+, Arvind, Eurojersey, Uchino
Graphene, which is derived from graphite and extracted
from a single layer of carbon, has been called a "wonder Brand adoption: Senscommon, Vollebak, Colmar, Shackleton, Krakatau, Bioracer,
material". This nano-material is thinner than a human Specortex
hair, and is said to be 200 times tougher than steel, with
many performance-enhancing benefits.
Case Studies

Carbon Compounds 
Purifying carbon: Charcoal eliminates Graphene: Strength and conductivity
excess odour, moisture, bacteria and make graphene ideal for innovators
environmental chemicals.  such as Vollebak, which used it to
create "the world's first graphene
Amsterdam-based brand Senscommon
and Japanese mill Uchino co-launched jacket" in 2018.
a modern "self-purifying" charcoal The membrane coating used
clothing capsule from Binchō-tan graphene nano-platelets with
charcoal (ubame oak). The oak is polyurethane, fused on to the nylon of S ensco mmo n Co lmar
ground into a powder, kneaded into one side of the jacket, making it
cotton and rayon fibres, and spun into reversible. In 2019 Vollebak launched
yarns for knits and wovens. its Carbon Fibre T-shirt, using
Spinner Tecnofilati's Resistex carbon graphene for anti-odour, strength,
yarn includes conductive filaments lightness, breathability and
based on active carbon, allowing rapid hydrophilic comfort.
sweat dispersion, making it suitable Graphene producer Directa Plus
for performance wear. worked with Vollebak and has also
Volcanic ash: Launched in 2015, partnered with brands and mills,
Sciessent's Lava XL technology uses creating G+ treated outdoor jacket
zeolites (mineral-based substances inserts for Colmar and Bioracer's
from volcanic ash), to capture and Speedwear cycling gear. The company
degrade odour molecules in fabric. also worked on a Sensitive Fabrics
line with Italian mill Eurojersey, and
with leading Indian mill Arvind for
graphene denim developments.
Vo llebak Vo llebak
Context

Pollution-
Protective
Why are they relevant now? Post Covid-19, a heightened
awareness of respiratory illness will fuel wider fears on Car t ier x T r ansso lar
air quality, so materials that protect our lungs from
airborne contaminants will deliver real value to apparel,
assuaging this concern through pollution-defence.
Application: Climate safety will become a critical
consideration for consumer spend, when it comes to
high-function products such as outdoor coats and
accessories, as well as performance wear, and will be a
key differentiator for apparel.
Overview: From smog hanging over cities to smoke
inside the home, air pollution poses a major threat to
climate and health. Ambient (outdoor) air pollution @zhijunwang Dassault S y st emes
causes about 4.2 million premature deaths every year, by
disease and chronic infections, according to the World
Health Organization.
Key ingredients and technologies: activated carbon, filtration systems
Indoor pollution can pose hazards too, as volatile
Key innovators: Anemotec – theBreath,Lekkowear, Devan – Purotex, HeiQ – Fresh AIR,
organic compounds (VOCs) can be higher than outside,
Aerochromics
and while many aren't considered harmful, some do have
negative health impacts, such as acetaldehyde, Brand adoption: Kloters, Vollebak, Nieuwe Heren
formaldehyde, nitrogen oxide and hydrocarbons from
sources such as paint, furniture, cleaning products,
sprays and cooking.
Case Studies

Pollution-Protective
Pollution-proof materials will become The tech draws contaminants into
common as performance apparel its core layer, blocking them inside
shifts into climate adaptability. the fabric structure and preventing
them from being released back into
Breathing T-shirt: Italian company
Kloters launched the RepAir T-shirt – the environment. The technology is
the "world's first pollution-absorbing based on a three-layered system of
tee" – via crowd-funding. It has a carbon mesh, polyester and active Lekko Vo llebak

unique patented chest pocket insert nanomolecules, making the air


made of a special fabric called around the wearer more breathable.
theBreath by anti-pollution firm Scarf filter: The Lekko snood was
Anemotech. It absorbs and lowers designed as an alternative to
pollutants such as nitrogen oxides, surgical masks to deal with smog
sulphur oxides and Benzene C6H6, and and air pollution. An adjustable
also neutralises odours. double regulation system makes it
A lab test conducted by Università easy to adjust the product to each
Politecnica delle Marche in Ancona, person's face, and an efficient filter
Italy, concluded one T-shirt is capable is said to remove 95% of unwanted
of offsetting emissions equivalent to airborne pollutants.
two cars. Due to its nature, theBreath
must be disposed of responsibly under
waste guidelines, but Kloters can
assist if old inserts are sent in or
dropped in-store. Klo t er s
Case Studies

Pollution-Alerting
Designers are using pollution-alerting Dutch design studio Nieuwe Heren's
textiles as a climate call-to-action. Aegis Parka also uses an embedded
sensor to register hazardous particles,
Although these speculative projects
with LEDs that illuminate to signal air
are borne of environmental protest,
their interactive visual nature could quality deterioration. A respirator with
potentially be harnessed into apparel an active carbon filter helps the
that alerts vulnerable people to toxic wearer inhale fresh air, and the parka
environments via colour change or further aids air quality as its titanium
Yin Yu Kasia Mo lga
LED-based smart technologies. dioxide treatment cleans the air,
thanks to its photocatalystic
Sensing technology: Aerochromics properties.
developed knits that visually change
pattern when levels of toxic airborne Artist Kasia Molga's Human Sensor
particles are detected, becoming more LDN garment responds to air quality,
visible as air quality decreases. using tiny sensors that activate LED
lights that fade in and out in synch
Their shirts are engineered to pick up with the wearer's breathing. A tiny
pollution, carbon monoxide and computer in the garment acts as a
gamma or electron beam radiation. data hub to capture air quality.
Two small sensors alert a micro-
controller in the collar, which activates AirMorphologies by Yin Yu is a voice-
colour change in a thermo-chromic dye control pneumatic wearable device
on contact with contaminants, turning designed for people in air-polluted
back to normal with increased oxygen. environments, made of pliable
material in a modular form that can
fit anyone.
Aer o chr o mics N ieuwe H er en
Context

Insect-Repellent
Why are they relevant now? As global temperatures rising
due to climate warming, more places could become T he Ver ge
prone to tropical, mosquito-borne diseases such as
malaria, dengue and yellow fever, already accounting for
about one million deaths globally each year.
Application: This predicted threat creates opportunities
to up-sell tougher survival protection into everyday
apparel, which has long been the preserve of outdoor
trek and hiking gear, military attire, tents, bed-nets and
interior textiles. This will be especially relevant for
outdoor clothes, travel attire and apparel for mosquito-
prone areas.
Overview: Synthetic insect repellents such as DEET are Insect S hield Cr agho pper s
effective, but botanical agents including citronella,
eucalyptus and geranium can offer less toxic natural
substitutes.
Key ingredients: permethrin, DEET – N,N‑diethyl‑m‑toluamide, cypermethrin, pyrethrum,
Their effectiveness can be less durable than chemical picaridin, citronella, peppermint, lemon, eucalyptus, basil, clove, thyme, lemongrass,
agents, but micro-encapsulation can slow the release geranium, lavender, graphene
rate of active ingredients to obtain efficacy for longer.
Key innovators: Insect Shield – Citrefine, Citriodiol, Aninsen – Daiwa Chemicals
Despite being natural,  there is a need to monitor
concentration levels to avoid toxicity on par with Brand adoption: Cotswold Outdoor, Ayacucho, Rohan, Jack Wolfskin, Craghoppers,
chemicals. BugShield Clothing, Rynoskin, Kathmandu
Case Studies

Insect-Repellent
Naturally derived: Pyrethrum is an All-round protection:
insecticide made from flower extracts Craghopper's NosiLife anti-insect
of the pyrethrum (chrysanthemum) clothing claims 90% effectiveness
plant, and it is considered organic against insect bites. The garments
when not mixed with synthetic have an odour-free insect-repellent
compounds. It works by masking technology permanently built into
skin's scent so it doesn't attract the fabric, making it washable. Cr agho pper s Phy s O r g
insects. Garments are also anti-bacterial and
Cotwsold Outdoor uses Permethrin UV protective.
(pyrethrum-derived) in its anti- Future innovation: Researchers at
mosquito Vital Protection technology Brown University, Rhode Island, in the
for brand Ayacucho, and so does US tested films of reduced graphene
outdoor brand Rohan. Permethrin is oxide (rGO) for mosquito repellency.
odourless and is stringently tested, Graphene’s high mechanical strength
claiming to be non-irritating on  make it well-suited as a repellent, as
sensitive skin. It repels various species the material is found to be bite and
of insects and it is claimed not to puncture resistant. It's also skin-
wash or wear out in the garment's blocking, which means mosquitos
lifetime.  can't detect the minute carbon
Repellent Citriodiol is produced from dioxide levels, humidity, temperature,
steam-distilled eucalyptus citriodora and the chemicals and microbes
oil, using a process that mimics and that normally attract them in sweat.
accelerates the ageing process that Cr agho pper s
naturally occurs in the leaf.
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