Technical Support Department

The following is a guide for properly installing tapered hubs on

shaft ends.
When removing old hubs insure that adequate force was required to pull the existing hub and
that a visual inspection of the internal hub bore and the shaft end have been performed. Pay
particular attention to the keyways and the keys looking for any signs of shear (ledge lines
running the length of the key) or rolling of the sides of keyway. Any marking of this nature
or any fret marks or large discolored areas of corrosion on the taper faces would be suspect.
NDT via Wet Magnetic Particle Inspection or minimum Dye Penetrant should be performed
to all shaft ends with particular attention to the keyway areas.
Lately there have been isolated failures of the drumshafts from cracks initiating from the
inside of water passage. This area usually does corrode severely and sediment build up can
be difficult to remove. Reaming this out and inspection via Ultrasonic Probe is about the only
sure way to inspect this. Indications noted during any type of examination of the shaft ends
should be viewed as critical. Remember: 95% of a cracks life is spent in initiation, 5% is
spent in propagation. Finding and removing indications is the only way to salvage a
highly loaded component.

The rule of thumb is in order for a taper to hold it should maintain 70% to 80% surface
contact between the hub and the shaft. Minor inconsistencies can be dressed with a file or it
is also possible to lap the two surfaces using a suitable grinding compound. Course
Carborundum or course Clover Compound does and excellent job of knocking down high
spots and reclamation of tapers.(Large tapered hubs can be successfully lapped with the shaft
in the horizontal position by doing a quarter or fifth of the surface at a time, rotating the two
surfaces simultaneously between lapping until the entire area has been lapped.)
When performing this keep the 2 keyways in relationship while rotating the entire assembly
during the lapping process. Shaft should be checked with Prussian Blue to verify that 70% to
80% contact is achieved when hub is fitted cold. Hub bores and shaft ends should never be
cleaned with abrasive flapper wheels unless they are fine grit (250 grit or higher).

Once the surface contact has been verified then the hub should be fitted cold and bumped
lightly with a hammer to insure that it is seated on the shaft. Record the amount of standoff
between the shaft end and the hub with a suitable depth micrometer. With the use of a small
feeler gage (0.003" or smaller) attempt to insert the gage between the shaft and the hub all
around the seating area from front and rear, if the gage can be inserted anywhere then there is
something wrong and disassembly and further inspection should be performed. This is a
problem usually associated with a new parts and is normally due to an improperly cut taper
on shaft or hub. Leaving it as is on the shaft will destroy the shaft end and could cause
catastrophic failure of the shaft.

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TRI-POINT ENERGY SERVICES, INC.
6955 High Life Drive Phone: 281-893-0500
Houston, Texas 77066 Fax: 281-893-5111
 Technical Support Department

ON NATIONAL DRAWWORKS WHEN THERE ARE SHIMS TO BE INSTALLED

BEHIND THE HUB AND THE FOLLOWING STEP IS CRITICAL.
With the hub on the shaft cold check the gap between back face of hub and sleeve on shaft as
best possible with a feeler gage, subtract 0.100" or 2.5mm from that amount found and install
that many shims once the hub has been removed for final assembly. Note: on Nationals there
will usually be a sleeve behind the hub and the area you are trying to gap is only ½ inch
thick, insure feelers get down to the bare shaft, this is very difficult on the low clutch side.

Insure that the keys fit properly and do not bind or catch. The purpose of the key is a failsafe
in case the hub does come off the taper in the future and to prevent catastrophic failure of the
equipment in that event. Therefore a slight interference fit of the key in both keyways is
acceptable and preferred, Note that any key does not stand to high in keyway and a 0.005”
feeler can pass above key once hub has been installed.
Hubs should be installed dry with no lubrication or especially anti-seize applied either
to shaft or bore.
Heat the hub by starting from the outside diameter and working toward the middle.
Approximately 250F-(120C).

DO NOT OVERHEAT THE HUB AS TOO MUCH HEAT WILL CAUSE HUB TO
CLIMB TAPER TOO FAR AND COULD POSSIBLY DISTORT OUTSIDE
DIAMETER CRITICAL DIMENSION, CAUSE HUB TO SPLIT OR BE
IMPOSSIBLE TO REMOVE IN THE FUTURE.

Prior to installing hub on the shaft have the end plate, bolts, and wrench or impact wrench
available for immediate use. The key to successfully installing a hub on a taper is to get it on
fast before the heat transfers to the shaft. Once the hub is successfully installed on the shaft,
allow it to cool to ambient temperature and perform the following checks.

Remove the end plate and check the stand off between the hub and the shaft. If everything
was correct there should roughly be between 0.070" and 0.090" (1.75 mm and 2.1mm) less
than the readings taken cold. Depending on the condition of the tapers there may be slightly
more or less stand off but this should not exceed 0.010” (0.125mm) either way. Check with
a small feeler gage and verify that there is clearance above key and none between shaft and
hub especially either side of the key.

ON NATIONAL DRAWWORKS, check behind the hub and insure that the shims are not
tight I.E. pinched or binding between the hub and the rear spacer. If they are tight then the
hub should be removed and additional shims removed and a more thorough examination of
the tapers should be performed prior to reinstallation.

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TRI-POINT ENERGY SERVICES, INC.
6955 High Life Drive Phone: 281-893-0500
Houston, Texas 77066 Fax: 281-893-5111
 Technical Support Department

Once the above has been successfully accomplished then reinstall the end plate and bolts and
torque to spec using a crisscross pattern and going back over the process until the torque is
evenly established and all bolts retain the same torque. These bolts are normally tie wired, if
they are not use Loc-Tite removable thread lock during final installation.

GE 752 or similar Electric Motor Hub Installation

These hubs are very similar in the way they get installed and the rules for contact are the
same. The thing about electric motor hubs that is different is they are designed to
accommodate machined OD fits, climbing the taper 0.125 Inches or 3 mm. They need to be
very close to that advance when they are final fitted. This amount of climb on the taper
directly affects the O.D. of hub and the fit of whatever is being mounted on it, sprocket,
sheave or crown tooth coupling.

When fitting these hubs follow the guidelines for contact and bluing and then with the hub
fitted cold, measure the distance behind hub to motor face and install a stop that is 0.125”
(3mm) less than gap found. On many GE 752 motor faces there are 3 small drilled and
tapped holes (3/8th UNC I believe) 3/8 x 1-1/2 inch bolts can be screwed in these holes and
by screwing them in or out the correct stopping distance can be easily set with feeler gages.
Once the hub is on the bolts can be cut off with a hack saw and the ends removed.

The hub should be heated to approximately 400 F above ambient temperature and verified
with a temp stick in the bore. When the hub has reached this temperature it can be installed
and must be held in this position until it bites the shaft, we used and old board to hold it until
it started to cool down. Heating gloves are a must for this application. When hub has cooled
to ambient it is essential that all bolt holes are re-tapped due to the distortion that occurs from
the 1/8th expansion that hub has seen in climbing the taper.

Following these procedures will insure hub is properly fitted and associated components IE
sprockets or sheaves will then fit properly on the motor itself. Recently in the last 2 years we
are seeing many people who do not know or understand the motor hub fits and we have seen
many come loose as well as finding hubs oversized and this causes problems with associated
parts installation.

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TRI-POINT ENERGY SERVICES, INC.
6955 High Life Drive Phone: 281-893-0500
Houston, Texas 77066 Fax: 281-893-5111
 Technical Support Department

GE 752 or similar Electric Motor Hub Removal

If the hub was properly installed initially there are 2 ways to get it off.
1) To reuse hub there is a special hydraulic hand pump that can pressure to 40,000 PSI
that can be screwed into the center of shaft via a 1/8th NPT port which runs to a ring
groove in the middle of the tapered area. There is now a threaded end on most motor
shafts that a nut can be installed to insure hub does not fly off and injure whoever is
working on it. Proper precautions should be taken to stop the hub from flying off the
shaft end.
VIP: Stay clear of the shaft end when pumping off hub, people have been killed
doing this.

2) If the special pump is not available normal methods such as pullers and heat normally
will not remove a properly installed hub and cutting it off is about the only option.

In my early days we tried to remove these hubs with 100 ton jack and puller, 3 heating
torches and liquid nitrogen applied to the center of shaft to cool it down while pumping
10.000 PSI into the center of shaft all at the same time and after 3 days of destroying tools
and pullers and many wasted man hours we cut off the hub with a torch.

Prepared by Michael”yankee”Yoakum
March 28, 2003

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TRI-POINT ENERGY SERVICES, INC.
6955 High Life Drive Phone: 281-893-0500
Houston, Texas 77066 Fax: 281-893-5111