instructables

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]

by diyperspective

In this instructable / video I will show you how you can make your own variable lab bench power supply which can
deliver 30V 6A 180W (10A MAX under the power limit). Minimal current limit 250-300mA.
Also you will see accuracy, load, protection and other tests. They should give you better idea, to easily decide, is it
worth making it yourself.

Provided Amazon links are affiliates

Main Tools You'll Need:

Drill: https://amzn.to/2U5QQmL
Step drill bit https://amzn.to/2LnNlX7
Diagonal cutting pliers: https://amzn.to/2E8vOz5
Digital Multimeter https://amzn.to/2rf0EO3
Soldering kit: https://amzn.to/2Q613Bf

Main Materials You'll Need:

36V 5A PSU https://amzn.to/2FEgYje

Step-down 300W 20A module https://amzn.to/2JdKiy0
Step-down module for 12V output https://amzn.to/2JbFmcQ
Voltmeter ammeter display https://amzn.to/2FGKhSh
100k Ohm 3590S potentiometers https://amzn.to/2Xgplfv
Caps for potentiometers https://amzn.to/2IUByOm
Banana socket https://amzn.to/2IXZ8tG
AC IEC 320 C14 socket https://amzn.to/2ZTIh0w
Power switch https://amzn.to/2XF9Tcg
Fan https://amzn.to/2XglX4u
Rubber feet https://amzn.to/2IW7Nwz
Electronic components box (local electronics shop)

Other Things You'll Need:

M3 screws, nuts, wires, crimp terminals, banana plugs, alligator clips.

You can follow me:

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 1

 YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/diyperspective
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/diyperspective
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https://youtu.be/A2l7zinMDw8

Step 1: Preview

Front, back and the inside shots of the power supply.

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 2

Step 2: Components

All components that you will need and some close up shots of them.

4 3
1 5
12
11
6 7

8 10
9

1. Rubber feet
2. Plastic electronic component box
3. Power switch
4. AC IEC 320 C14 socket
5. 36V 5A PSU (220W MAX) with over voltage protection, over current
protection and short circuit protection.
6. Banana sockets
7. 100k Ohm multi-turn 3590S potentiometers
8. Caps for the potentiometers
9. Votmeter ammeter display
10. 12V 2000RPM silent 60x60mm fan
11. Step-down module (DSN2596 / LM2596 input: 3.0-40V, output: 1.5-
35V)
12. 300W 20A Step-down module (Input: 6-40V. Output: 1.2-35V)

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 3

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 4
Step 3: Making Front

In the front we need to make holes for the display, two potentiometers, two banana sockets and for the power
switch.

For smaller holes metal drill bit works just fine, but for bigger holes you will need a step drill bit to drill the holes
without cracking the box.

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 5

Step 4: Finishing Front

I would say this is the hardest part of the build - make a square hole at the top of the box. My solution was to drill
many small holes, cut out bigger pieces and then sand to the right size. I works well, but it takes a lot of time.

If you know better solution, I'm all ears. It must be the easier way?! Right?

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 6

Step 5: Back

Now on the back, we need to make many holes for the fan, that it could exhaust the hot air and square hole for the
AC socket. Nothing hard, just a lot measuring and drilling.

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 7

Step 6: Component Placement

We should plan the inside layout for the components. You want like AC connectors of the power supply to face the
back and potentiometers of the 300W step-down module to face the front.

Also try to position those two components that the air from the bottom front would go through all the heatsinks.

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 8

 1
2

1. Holes for the air to go in.

2. Countersink hole

Step 7: Rubber Feet

With screws in place, now we can find space to make additional holes for the rubber feet in each corner.

1. Hole for the rubber feet screw

2. M3 screws that will hold all components

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 9

Step 8: All Wires

With all components in place now we can measure required wire lengths (how everything connects - later).

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 10

Step 9: Modifying the Module

But before connecting everything, we need to de-solder existing small potentiometers on the module (on my
module you can see only one potentiometer, because I already de-soldered one).

We need to add extension wires that will go to the new multi-turn potentiometers.

The middle wire from the module goes to the bottom connector on the potentiometer.
The top wire goes to the middle connector
The bottom wire goes to the top connector.

This way you will get that rotating potentiometer clockwise voltage or current increases and counterclockwise
decreases.

1
2

1. Bottom
2. Top

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 11

Step 10: AC Wires

AC, AC, AC, be really careful with it, or it could kill you. Always connect ground wire, it's a great safety feature.

For quick connection to the onboard AC socket and power switch at the front, I used these wire crimp terminals.
On them, I added some heat-shrink tubing for the insulation.

Step 11: Wiring

4 wires goes from the 36V power supply. Thick (16AWG or thicker) wires go to the main 300W step-down module
and thin wires to the additional step-down module. With this done, don't forget to power on the additional module
and adjust output voltage to 12V.

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 12

Step 12: How Everything Connects

As from this wire mess it's really hard to follow, I added simplified view how everything connects together.

We have connected live AC wire which goes from the onboard socket through the power switch to
the power supply. The neutral wire goes to the other terminal and ground wire to the ground
connection.

Two thick wires go to the main step-down module and two thin wires to the secondary module. To it,
comes wires from the fan and two thin wires from the display.

The third thin wire from the display, which is usually yellow, goes to the red positive banana socket.
To this same socket goes positive output of the main step-down module.

Finally, black thick wire from the display goes to the negative connector of the main step-down
module, and red thick wire to the black negative banana socket.

And that’s it, the circuit is complete. You additionally can fine tune voltage and current readings on the meter with
two integrated potentiometers.

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 13

 1

1. AC Input
2. DC Output

Step 13: Final Touches

With caps on, display wires in and all screws isolated, we are done.

One more thing that we could make are banana plugs for easy testing.

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 14

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 15
Step 14: TESTS

Few accuracy, load and other tests.

1 1

1. Test with a 12V 60W bulb 1. Test with 34V 50W COB LED chip.

1
1

1. Load test, too bad I ran into the max current limit (10A). But that 36V 5A 1. If you go above display/meter's rated 10A it just stops reading the
PSU should deliver up to 180W (220W MAX). current.
But try to stay into the limits as you still can damage it when going too far
for too long

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 16

Step 15: TESTS

Few temperature and short-circuit tests.

1. 300W step-down module heatsink temperature after 15min 1. 36V 5A PSU hottest heatsink temperature after 15min
(@10V 7.5A 25C room temp) (@10V 7.5A 25C room temp)

1 1

1. On light 1. Starts blinking and PSU turns off when short circuit is detected.

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 17

Step 16: THE END

So, what can I say, as all parts cost only around $35, I think it gives good value considering the accuracy and
performance of the power supply.

For me, this device will hugely ease up testing of all sorts of electronics for my future projects.

So if you are looking for a cheapest way to get above average accuracy and performance, DIY power supply like
this might be the answer for you.

I hope this instructable / video was useful and informative.

If you liked it, you can support me by liking this Instructable / YouTube video and subscribing for more future
content. Feel free to leave any questions about this build. Thank you, for reading / watching! Till next time! :)

You can follow me:

YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/diyperspective
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/diyperspective
Twitter: https://twitter.com/diyperspective
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/diyperspective

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 18

Hi - thanks for this - been meaning to build myself something to replace the 6V/9V/12V supply I
built - oh about a hundred years ago :-)

Love this one because whilst it's simple ('modular' :-) ) - it IS also flexible enough to actually be
useful.
So - thanks for the inspiration !

I also made the same item in a different way :)

Great! It is always nice to see that there still can be found people who want to do things with their
own hands, respect! As you probably have found out, the cooling fan and air distribution inside the
box could maybe be thought again by placing all PCB units so that the air flow is in the same
direction as the heat sinks. Then the smoke gets out easier and does not glog the holes...
Very nice looking job.

I’m planning to build something similar and you’ve given me some ideas.

A couple questions/comments if you have a moment?

1) I’d strongly suggest you add a fuse. At least to the 110V input. You can get IEC sockets with a
fuse holder built in, and they usually have a cute red switch (remember that the current in the 110V
line won’t be 6A). Id consider a fuse between the 36V supply and the variable supply. I’d also
consider a fuse in your output to the red binding post. Even if both your supplies are current limited.
(Put the meter on the output side of the fuse, or best attach it right to the binding post). If you use a
10A fuse, I don’t think it will add much resistance and thus current induced droop and ripple (a
smaller fuse would have higher resistance). You could use bulkhead fuse holder(s) and install
them on the back... with bulkhead socket holders you won’t need to disassemble everything...

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 19

Why all these fuses? Even if the supplies are current limited, if a short develops - (either at your
load, or inside your box due to a wiring short or failing component.), you can see from the big
letters on the box 180W. That’s a lot of heat inside your box. Something will get very unhappy.
Smoke will blow out the cluster of fan holes in the back. Uses slow blow fuses, rated just below the
current rating of your supplies.

2) you might add some kind of schematic. For instance, I wasn’t sure if the on/off switch is on the
input of the 36V supply, on the output of the 36V, or the output of the buck regulator. I wasn’t sure
if ground carried through from the iec socket to the black terminal post or not. Your description of
wiring the panel meter was confusing. Lots of bench supplies have a floating output (black/negative
is not grounded) and then they add a third green terminal that is grounded. You can tie green to
black if you want your load grounded. The green terminal also makes a good spot to plug in your
ESD strap.

3) if it’s on the input, make sure the switch is rated for 120V. If anywhere else, make sure it can
handle the current.

4) if it were me, I’d put a main switch on the back for the 110V.

5) if it were me, I’d add a toggle switch on the output of the regulator on the way to the red post.
That way you can shutdown your load and adjust the voltage without having to pull the leads out.

6) those meters are a royal pain because the current measurement is in the return path (the black
lead, not the red lead).
That means that any current that goes from the supply to the load on the RED wire, but somehow
finds its way back to the power supply via a path other than the BLACK wire won’t register... this
would be more often a problem if you decided to add a second output with a meter - say both 5V
and 3.3V to a project. Most loads would have a common ground. So, you don’t know which black
wire the current will go back on...

If anyone knows of a source for these meters that measures current in the POSITIVE lead TO THE
LOAD, please let me know!!! I want some!

7) finally, I’d put some capacitors right across between the two output terminals. Make sure they
are rated in excess of the maximum voltage. I might use a 100uF (or 10uF), a 1UF and a 0.1F.
RicksterInstructables thank you for this feedback! The power button disconnects live AC wire from
the main 36V PSU. I now added input and output notes on the photo.
Again, thanks, that's some valuable tips/information, appreciate it! :)
I think that the article explains things very clearly - one of the best I have seen!

I agree about the fuses. I too would buy an IEC connector with switch and fuse built in. I think the
last capacitor value in your comment should be 0.1 uF a.k.a 100 nF? If you do put capacitors there,
a 47k or 100k resistor in parallel is needed to discharge them reasonably quickly.

For protecting the power supply from already-charged capacitors I would add a 3 Amp diode
across the OUT+ and OUT- (reversed, i.e. cathode to the OUT+) on the 30V module. The diode
protects the supply from negative voltages from equipment previously tested, then connected the
wrong way around.

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 20

For ultimate safety it is best to shroud the mains wires and connections in fiberglass sleeves. That
way even if the box burns or melts, people are still protected from touching the mains. It is a
requirement in some countries, I believe.
This is very nice and neat ! Bravo !
I would like to know how the power supply is behaving when the load is important ? For instance, if
you want to power a 5V 3.5A device, does the voltage remains stable ? And if yes, to what extent
(1%, 5%, 10%) ?
I recently bought a PSU and its voltage drops (from 5V to 4.6V) when you draw more than 2A... so
the device is not properly powered and shuts down.
And I am looking for a strong and reliable power supply for developing and prototyping systems.
Thank you for your answer !
Thanks! I tested with 10.03V - no load, 9.91V - 4.5A load. I would say it is good, just a little drop. :)

Looks perfect indeed ! Congrats =)

yeah static tests on this unit look great but voltage regulation is also important.

Sounds good if you need the best accuracy, thanks for the tip!

Very nice job. Clean and tidy !! One question. What is the CC low current control capability of the
DC CV/CC Buck converter? How low can you set the current level? I have seen similar converters
that could only go as low as 30 - 40 mA. Still too much for say - a single LED. There is no CC
specification on it's product page. Thanks !!
Thanks, this buck converter is not suited for a very low current. Minimal current limit is 250-300
mA. I will add this info in the instuctable.
Interesting build!
If I may make a suggestion: I would replace the M3 screws covered with electrical tape with nylon
standoffs, as they are inherently insulated. :)
Thanks, yeah, I will need to get those someday! :)

Thanks! Yes, I guess a fuse is never a bad idea here. But on the 36V 5A PSU, there is some sort
of a fuse (pictures). Correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks for the tips! I think my box is way too thick for a "nibbling tool".

Very nice! I like how easy it is to set the voltage/amperage, and it packs quite a lot of power too! A
dedicated 5v supply might be a nice addition. Also, the ability to set the voltage/amperage while
the output is off, then turn the output on. This would be good just in case you misadjust the dials
with something connected- this way you wouldn't burn it out.
As for cutting the square hole, an oscillating plunge cutter would do a nice job. Lacking that, a
Dremel would get the job done with the right attachments.
Thanks! I mean it's just two old school rotating knobs. They have 10 turns of rotation and they
doesn't turn very freely. So it's hard to mess something by accident.
You set desired voltage, lower current to minimum, connect device, and rise the current. I do like
this if it is current sensitive device like a LED chip.
Very good job! Only thing that would make it better is to make a dual output but that would be easy
based on your work here.

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 21

MikeD11 thanks! Time will tell if I need that. :)

Sounds like a really good idea. Make one with positive and negative outputs. +/- 30 Volts would be
a very useful p/s. I would do it but I already have one on my bench that I got from a surplus outlet
many years ago. Still runs very well.
Excellent useful project. Very well documented. The parts are also very affordable. If you set the
output voltage to say 10V with a low load eg 1 Amp, and then increase the load to say, 5 Amps,
how much does the voltage change? i.e. how good is the voltage regulation from the output
supply?
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! 10.03V - no load, 9.91V 4.5A load.

Very interesting! For those of us who don't have a "local electronics shop", can you give the
dimensions of the box you used, and any other information on where it might be found online?
Thanks!
Yes, Length - 21.5cm, Width - 13.5cm, Height - 8cm. I bought it at local electronics shop, because I
couldn't find what I want online.
Nice job! Very tidy, very useful. Congrats.

Thanks! :)

Bonjour,
Bon travail.
à étape 12
pour la sécurité de tous se trouve une interruption soit bipolaire pour couper la phase et
comprendre le neutre.
comment peut affirmer les positions de Ph et N dans chaque foyer utilisateur.
Donc, il y a danger.
merci
Dominique
To cut square holes use a nibbler.
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Nickel-Plated-Nibbling/dp/B0002KRACO?
psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-samsung-
20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0002KRACO

DIY Lab Bench Power Supply [Build + Tests]: Page 22