630 An2f

Anderson 1131614
56 graded problems in
elementary sheet metalwork

PUBLIC LIBRARY RFMOVE

DO KGY
FORT WAYNE AND ALLEN COUNTY, IND.
ACPL ITEM
DISCARDED
'
56 GRADED PROBLEMS IN
ELEMENTARy SHEET METALWORK
 56
gradedin
ELEMENTARY SHEET METALWORK

ALGOT E. ANDERSON

Topeka Public Schools

Topeka, Kansas

McKNIGHT

&
McKNIGHT

PUBLISHING COMPANY

Bloomington, Illinois
First Edition

COPYRIGHT 1959

by McKnight & McKnight Publishing Company

All rights reserved. No part of this book
may be reproduced, in any form, without
permission in writing from the publishers.

Lithographed in U.S.A.
PREFACE
Sheet metalwork as an industrial arts shop activity has
many features to recommend it. Not only is it an effective
medium for the teaching of such basic skills as the reading of
drawings, accuracy in layout, cutting, shaping and assembling;
but it also has advantages from the standpoint of economy in
time and materials. A minimum of shop space is required. In
industry, the products of the sheet metal worker’s skill are seen
on every hand, so that the pre-vocational value of sheet metal¬
work is very important.
Less time is usually required to complete a problem in sheet
metalwork than one in woodwork, and the cost of tools and
materials is usually much lower. Many jigs and bending devices
may be improvised from blocks of hardwood, pipe, sections of
angle iron and various sizes and shapes of steel plate and cast
iron available at salvage yards. Even for a more advanced
teaching program, the necessary machines are relatively inex¬
pensive and require minimal maintenance.
Cost of materials is lower, both because of the lower surface-
foot cost, and because smaller portions of material are required.
Direction of grain is not a factor in cutting material economically.
If desired, considerable material may be obtained from salvage,
such as discarded sheet metal containers.
This writer has maintained, through years of teaching ex¬
perience, that correct principles and procedures can be taught
at the junior high school level by the careful choice of projects
whose making will be meaningful to the pupil, and thereby
will provide a motivation which will stimulate learning and
accomplishment.
On the following pages are presented a number of projects
that have proved successful in providing learning values, motiva¬
tions and satisfactions to junior high school pupils. Each provides
opportunities for definite learning and manipulative experiences.
In organizing the material for this book, a careful analysis
of learning units was made first. Then problems were selected
to supply motivated experiences in each unit. Finally, recogni¬
tion was given to the variations in maturity and ability found
among pupils in the average class. In each unit will be found
problems adapted to several levels of ability, including those
which offer a challenge to the most proficient pupils.
For classes having limited time for sheet metal instruction,
problems will be found in each unit to fit into a shortened
program.
Algot E. Anderson

5
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The interest and efforts of many persons have brought this
book into being. I hereby confess my indebtedness to them.
First, to those predecessors whose original designs have
been adapted for the purposes of the book. My thanks to them.
Second, to the many hundreds of boys who have been my
pupils at some time during my more than thirty years of teach¬
ing shopwork, I give a salute. They have been my laboratory
subjects. The interest they have shown in some projects, their
rejection of others, the capacities and limitations they have re¬
vealed, and their acceptance of the challenges presented — all
of these have been invaluable aids in the final selection of the
projects to be included here. I wish to pay special tribute to
the boys of East Topeka Junior High School who have cooperated
in such a wonderful way.
Mr. P. W. Chamness, Director of Vocational Education in
the Topeka Public Schools, and Mr. P. E. Oyler, Principal of
East Topeka Junior High School have been most cooperative
in creating an atmosphere of encouragement and helpfulness,
giving full freedom to organize and try out and develop my
program. They have also been understanding and constructive
critics. It is with their encouragement and cooperation that
this book has been prepared.
My fellow teachers in Topeka and Kansas have been other
sources of help. They have requested plans for a number of the
projects included herein, have tried them out in their own
classes, and have reported on the reactions of their pupils to
the projects.
Finally, I wish to acknowledge the encouragement and as¬
sistance I have received from my own family. Our children
have been most enthusiastic boosters, and my wife has been a
paragon of patience, inspiration and cooperation throughout.

A. E. A.

6
CONTENTS
UNIT I — PROBLEMS WITH SIMPLE LAYOUTS AND CUTS

Whistle 10
Door Stop 10
Calendar Mount 12
Spoon or Soldering Copper Rest 14
Drill Bit Holder 16
Steno Notebook Holder 18
Rack for Small Tools 20
Utility Box 22
Roll-Type Memo Pad 24

UNIT II — PROBLEMS WITH SOLDERED LAPS AND SEAMS

Dust Pan 28
Kitchen Shelf 30
Cracker Boat 32
Wall Pocket 34
Spices Box 36
Ping Pong Ball Caddy 38
Memo Slip Box 40
Recipe File 42

UNIT III — PROBLEMS WITH RIVETED CONSTRUCTION

Letter Holder 46
Cake Turner 48
Hook Rack 50
Tool Rack 52
Utility Box 54
Work Stand 56
Mail Box 58
Transfer Case 60

UNIT IV — PROBLEMS WITH OBLIQUE LINES

Flag Holder 64
Barbecue Shovel 66
Pet Feeding Tray 68
Planter 70
Ivy Cart 72
Hanging Planter 74
Cottage Mail Box 76
Floor Tool Tray 78
Treasure Chest 82

7
UNIT V — PROBLEMS WITH CYLINDRICAL FORMS

Brush Holder 86
Candlestick 88
Planter 90
Insecticide Duster 92
Feeder 94
Fishhook’n Sinker Box 96
Lazy Susan Nail Tray 98
Minnow Bucket 102

UNIT VI — PROBLEMS WITH FRUSTUMS OF CONES

Funnel 106
Marking Float 108
Table Lamp 110
Puppy Feeder 112
Junior Brazier 114
Net Float 116
Bedroom or TV Lamp 118

UNIT VII — PROBLEMS IN PYRAMID DEVELOPMENT AND REVIEW

Vase 124
Cabinet Leg 126
Watering Can 128
Waste Basket 130
Bird Bath 132
Scoop 134
Pioneers’ Lantern 136

Reference List 143

8
Unit I

PROBLEMS WITH SIMPLE LAYOUTS AND CUTS

Problems in Unit I introduce the beginner to sheet metal¬
work. He should gain some knowledge of several of the more
common metals and alloys in sheet form; especially brass, copper,
aluminum and mild steel. The latter may be in the form of
galvanized iron, tin plate or in the uncoated form commonly
referred to as black iron or stovepipe iron.
This unit provides experiences in the following operations
and skills:
Redding layout drawings
Laying out designs on sheet metal
Following instructions which have been arranged in
their best order
Cutting straight and curved lines with snips
Punching holes with solid punches and with hollow
punches
Shearing metal ivith a cold chisel, using either a vise
or a lead backing block
Folding hems
Bending metal by any of several methods
Selecting and applying appropriate finishes
Evaluating the work done

Safety precautions should be observed at all times, and first

aid for scratches and cuts should be readily available.
As in all units, a number of projects, graded as to approxi¬
mate difficulty, have been provided. This offers choices based
on the time available and on the pupils’ ability and interest. The
superior pupils, as well as those of average ability, have been
kept in mind in each unit.
Minimum tools needed consist of: rule, square, scriber,
dividers, prick punch, center punch, solid punches in several sizes,
hollow punches in several sizes, snips, mallet, cold chisel, hammer,
machinist’s vise, several files (including a smooth or second cut
file), fine-toothed hack saw, a set of two angle irons twelve
inches or more in length, two or more C-clamps, hardwood
blocks and fine steel wool.
Other desirable equipment would be: handy seamer, square
stake, hatchet stake, hand punch, lead backing plate and bar
folder or brake.

9
10

whistle :
Follow the instructions in making this noisy toy. Those with a
scientific curiosity may wish to make several, varying the sizes and
locations of the air holes, and the spacing between the leaves when
bent, and noting the effect on the pitch and tone quality of each
whistle. Be sure the whistle is clean before you put it in your mouth.

Materials List showing cutting and bending lines,

1 piece tin plate or aluminum,
References
Grayshon, General Metal Work.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork
Essentials.
Procedure
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
x 2\" and locating centers for the holes.
3. Round the corners.
4. Punch out the air holes with a solid
punch or a hand punch; dress the
holes with a file or a reamer to
remove any rough places.
5. Bend on the bending line.
6. Sterilize with spap and hot water
then rinse with clean water.

DOOR STOP ii:

A handy appliance, easily made. Use either method for laying out
the perpendicular part at the back to make it the proper height.
Felt or rubber may be glued to the feet. A coat of enamel will make
it more attractive.

Materials List on the tongue falls on the other end

1 piece 26 gauge galvanized iron or
aluminum, 4" x 4\"
References
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
Work.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Procedure
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Locate the longitudinal center line,
first, then lay out the lines B.
3. Lay out lines C, using either of the
following methods:
Method 1: Place the blade of a
steel square so that its edge falls
on one end of line B. Adjust the
square so that the one-inch mark
of the line. Scribe lines A and C.
Method 2: With the desired end
of the line B as a center and with
a one inch radius, scribe an arc on
the outer side of line B. From the
other end of line B draw a tangent,
A, to the arc just drawn. From the
point of tangency to the first end of
line B, scribe a line C. This line
should be perpendicular to line A.
4. Draw lines D parallel to lines A,
and round the corners.
5. Cut on the cutting lines.
6. Bend the feet 90° out on lines A.
7. Bend inward 90° on lines B.
8. Finish as desired.
9. Glue protective strips to the feet.
 11

! I

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UNIT I WHISTLE GRADE 1

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UNIT I DOOR STOP GRADE I

CALENDAR MOUNT
Unit I

This is a “one period” project which may be made from copper, brass,
aluminum, tin plate, galvanized iron or black iron. Various finishes
are possible. When completed with the mounting of a calendar pad,
it makes a very acceptable Christmas gift.

Materials List
1 piece 26 to 28 gauge metal, 3f" x 4^"

References
Barich and Smith, Metal Work for In¬
dustrial Arts Shops.
Johnson and Newkirk, Metal Crafts.

Procedure
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending and cutting lines,
and locating centers for the holes.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Punch f/' holes.
5. Smooth all edges with a fine file.
6. Bend on line A, about 30°.
7. Use a finish appropriate to the
kind of metal used.
8. Mount the calendar pad with paper
fasteners or with ornamental cord
laced through the holes in the metal
and through corresponding holes
punched in the pad.
13
14

SPOON OR SOLDERING
COPPER REST “ ;
A simple device with many uses. In the shop it will keep a hot solder¬
ing copper from scorching the bench top. Two or more of them will
support rods or bars whose ends are to be soldered or welded together.
In the kitchen it will keep stirring spoons or forks from leaving marks
on table tops.

Materials List *
1 piece sheet metal 27 or 28 gauge,
3" x 3f"

References
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
Work.
Grayshon, General Metal Work.

Procedure
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out completely, showing cut¬
ting and bending lines.
3. Bend the hems on lines A.
4. Bend inward 90° on lines B.
5. Bend inward 90° or more on lines C.
6. Lay the outward face between the
lines C over round stock such as a
rod or pipe, and bend into a half¬
cylinder.
7. Straighten up the sides so that they
are upright.
8. Protective pads may be glued to the
feet.
 15

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34

UNIT I FOR SOLDERING COPPERS GRADE 2

DRILL BIT HOLDER
Unit I

The holder shown in the drawing will accomodate ten drill bits rang¬
ing in size from one-fourth inch downward. If desired, more drills can
be included by lengthening the drill space.

Materials List
1 piece 22 to 26 gauge galvanized or
black iron, 3 ft" x 5§"

References
Ludwig, Metalwork Technology and
Practice.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork
Essentials.

Procedure
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the stock completely, locat¬
ing the bending lines and the cen¬
ters for the drill bit holes.
3. Bend 90° at A.
4. Bend 90° in the same direction at B.
5. Fit a block of wood f" thick as
shown in the sketch.
6. Center punch for the drill holes.
7. Drill holes through the metal, the
block and the metal on the opposite
side.
8. With the block still in place, bend
downward 90° at C.
9. Remove the block and bend 180°
at E.
10. Bend 90° at D.
11. Glue a strip of paper to the front,
on which drill bit sizes may be
shown.
12. Glue protective material to the bot¬
tom as desired.
17
18

STENO NOTEBOOK HOLDER “ ;

Two sets of dimensions are given for this holder. The smaller dimen¬
sions are for stenographers’ 6" x 9" notebooks; the larger set is for
regular 81" x 11" paper. Usually the notebook is hung over the
holder, but one or two spring clips are used to hold the larger sheets.

Materials List
1 piece 27 or 28 gauge galvanized iron,
or aluminum, either 11*" x 13f"
or 13*" x 171".
References
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork
Essentials.

Procedure
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Make a complete layout, showing
cutting and bending lines.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Bend the hems inward.
5. Starting at edge X, roll the foot
around a *" or f" rod, making about
f of a turn.
6. Bend the foot forward about 90°
at Y.
7. Bend the sides backward 90° on
lines Z.
8. Adjust the foot so that the bottom
of the roll rests on the table.
9. Enamel or lacquer to suit.
10. Glue protective material to the
bottom to prevent scratching desk
or table top.
 19

A B C D E r
FOR 6x9 NOTEBOOKS 6Z si •i 8k
FOR 6^X1/ PAPER ni 6$r *5 13? 2 9k
UNIT I STENO. NOTEBOOK HOLDER GRADE 3
RACK FOR SMALL TOOLS
Unit !

Experience in the use of the hollow punch and in accurate cutting

and bending of small parts is provided in this project. The rack
provides a place on the workbench for small tools such as nail sets,
punches, design stamps, chasing tools and scribers, and for pencils
and brushes that so often are difficult to find quickly.

Materials List
1 piece 27 or 28 gauge sheet metal,
7" x 8"

References
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork
Essentials.

Procedure
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out completely, showing cut¬
ting and bending lines, and locat¬
ing positions for the punched holes.
3. Cut on all cutting lines, including
notches at B.
4. Punch out the holes as at A and
step 1, using a f" hollow punch.
5. Cut at the tool notches as shown in
step 2 on the drawing. Trim and
file the sharp corners.
6. Bend at the tool notches, following
steps 2, 3 and 4.
7. Bend 90° on lines C.
8. Bend the halves together on line D.
9. Lock together by folding over the
notched parts B.
10. Strips of adhesive tape may be ap¬
plied to the bottom edges to prevent
marring of table surfaces, if de¬
sired.
21
UTILITY BOX
Unit I

A box for nails, spools, marbles, machine parts, and even liquids, this
is a real utility box. Its construction requires accurate layout and
careful bending.

Materials List
1 piece sheet metal 28 gauge, 7f" x 104"
References
Bollinger, Elements of Sheet Metal
Work.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Procedure
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out completely, showing cut¬
ting and bending lines.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Bend slightly on all lines A to
establish the final bending lines.
5. Bend sharply and accurately on all
lines B.
6. As the bending continues, bend also
along the bottom lines A until the
sides and ends are perpendicular to
the bottom. This should bring them
together accurately at the corners.
7. Bend the folded corners across the
ends.
8. Bend outward and downward on
lines C, forming hems that lock the
folded corners in place.
9. Bend the side hems outward on
lines D.
 23

UNIT I UTILITY BOX GRADE 3

24

ROLL-TYPE MEMO PAD III

This project presents some special challenges both in layout and
in construction. Careful workmanship in all steps will produce a
useful, durable desk convenience. Adding machine rolls provide the
paper.

Materials List
1 piece 22 or 24 gauge aluminum, gal¬ 9. From the points of tangency draw
vanized or black iron, 9£" x 9f" perpendiculars to lines F, meeting
lines A, as at G. Draw line L.
References
10. Locate and draw lines H parallel to
Ludwig, Metalwork Technology and
lines F.
Practice.
11. Locate the notches J.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork
12. Locate the slots K.
Essentials.

Procedure Construction
Laying Out 1. Cut on lines D.
1. On stock cut to over-all size, locate 2. Clamp the stock in a vise and shear
a longitudinal center line and lay on line C with a cold chisel.
off lines A from it. 3. In the same manner shear slots K.
2. Measuring from about inside 4. Smooth the sheared edges with a
line X, locate and lay off lines B file.
and C. 5. Cut on the remaining cutting lines.
3. Measure outward §" from lines A 6. Cut notches J with a warding file
and draw short lines parallel to or a fine-toothed hack saw. The
lines A. notches should slant forward about
4. With the intersections of line B 60°.
with lines A as centers, and with 7. Bend inward 90° on lines F.
2\" radius, draw arcs cutting the 8. Bend downward 90° on line B.
lines drawn in step 3 above. 9. Bend inward 90° on lines A.
5. Draw lines D. 10. Fit a dowel loosely between the
6. Draw lines E 2" long and perpen¬ sides. It will support the roll of
dicular to lines D. adding machine paper. A small
7. Draw arcs from the opposite brad or nail driven into each end of
ends of lines A. the dowel fits into notches J.
8. From the ends of lines E draw lines 11. Enamel or lacquer as desired.
F tangent to the arcs drawn in step 12. Glue protective strips to the feet if
7. desired.
 FINISHED PIECE
HERE ' i

Sheet Metal Fabrication

This 300-ton progressive press will perform sev¬
eral blanking, punching and forming operations on
sheet metal up to a maximum of 16" in width and
.090" in thickness.
In (1) is shown an over-all view of the press, set
REGISTER up to make front covers for control boxes of .042"
PIN hot rolled sheet steel. (2) is a closer view of one part
of the press and (3) shows the final sets of blanking
and punching dies. In (4) the blanked and semi-
FORMING BLOC formed cover has been placed in a double-acting brake
or folder which makes the radius bends on the ends
of the cover. In (5) the cover has been formed but
is still in position in the brake. This double-acting
brake is air-controlled and air-operated.
Photos by General Electric's General Purpose
Control Department
Unit II

PROBLEMS WITH SOLDERED LAPS AND SEAMS

Unit II provides experience in soldering as a means of
holding metal parts together.
The pupil should learn the difference between welding,
hard soldering (also called brazing and bronze welding),
and soft soldering, which is commonly used in sheet metal
work.
Types of soldering devices and their use and care will
need to be understood. There should be a knowledge of the
composition and grades of solder, as well as of the fluxed
wire solders. Kinds of fluxes and their purpose and use
need to be explained.
In laying out projects to be soldered, allowance must
be made for soldering laps to provide adequate strength.
Tools and equipment needed in addition to those used
in Unit I include:
Soldering coppers, preferably in pairs
Soldering furnace or other means of heating the
coppers
Sal ammoniac block
Bar solder, acid core solder, rosin core solder
Fluxes
Solder scraper
Backing blocks of various sizes and shapes
Hawksbill snips or aviation snips
Since there is a possibility of getting burned, first aid
equipment for treating burns should be available, and in¬
struction should be given in treating burns.
28
DUST PAN
A well-made dust pan will give many years of service if it is not
abused. This one has a pocket for catching the sweepings, and a handle
that will permit use without stooping.
Materials List
Pan: 1 piece 27 or 28 gauge galvanized
iron, 12f" x 14"
Handle: 1 piece #9 galvanized wire, 5'
long
References
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork
Essentials.
Procedure
Pan
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing the bending lines and the
cutting lines, and locating the holes
for the handle.
3. Cut on the cutting lines and punch
out the holes.
4. Bend the hem inward at A.
5. Bend inward 90° along the entire
lengths of lines B.
6. Bend inward 90° along line C.
7. Bend inward 90° along line D,
bringing the laps outside.
8. With the top and back fitting
" ,
snugly against the sides, tack-solder
the top laps to the sides.
9. Solder the back laps to the sides.
10. Finish soldering the top laps to the
sides.
11. Clean up the dust pan.
12. Finish with enamel or lacquer if
desired.
Handle
1. Cut a five foot length of #9 gal¬
vanized wire.
2. Bend the wire double at the center
of its length.
3. Clamp the wire in a machinist’s vise
so that the bend extends 18" from
the side of the vise.
4. Place a piece of wood about 1" by
2V' in the loop of wire, and twist
the wire as shown in the sketch.
5. Bend both ends of the wire as
shown.
6. Shape the loop.
7. Bend both legs of the handle ends
slightly inward to provide a clamp¬
ing effect to hold the handle in the
dust pan.
 29

UNIT II DUST PAN GRADE I

KITCHEN SHELF Unit II

This is a simple problem, yet it contains several learning values.

Note how the various parts have been strengthened: At A there are
hems; at the front, C, there is a right angle bend; and at the top of
the back there is a double hem. Note also that the soldering laps are
on each end, and are under the bottom to provide maximum strength.

Materials List
1 piece 26 gauge galvanized iron, 8|" x
desired shelf length plus 8"

References
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork
Essentials.

Procedure
1. Determine length of shelf desired.
To that distance add 8" for over¬
all length. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely, indi¬
cating cutting lines and bending
lines.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Bend the hems inward at A.
5. Bend the double hem, B, at the back.
6. Bend downward 90° at C.
7. Bend 90° inward along D.
8. Bend 90° inward at E so that the
laps are on the under side of the
shelf.
9. Solder the laps to the bottom.
10. Clean the joints and true up the
shelf.
11. Apply an appropriate finish as
desired.
 31

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UNIT II KITCHEN SHELF GRADE I

32

CRACKER BOAT
As a convenient receptacle for serving crackers or wafers the cracker
boat will find frequent use.

It is very attractive when made of brass or copper, either hammered

or plain. If made of tin plate or galvanized iron it should be lacquered
or enameled. There is opportunity for individual design of the ends
and the edges.

Materials List 6. Bend outward 90° at B.

Ends: 2 pieces 28 gauge stock, 2|" x 3"
Tray
Tray: 1 piece same material, 5" x 7 V'
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
References 2. Lay out the design completely,
Barich and Smith, Metal Work for In¬ showing bending lines and cutting
dustrial Arts Shops. lines.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork. 3. Cut on the cutting lines.

Procedure 4. Bend upward 90° at A.

Ends
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines.
3. Locate and mark the position of the
tray against the inner face of the
ends.
4. Cut on the cutting lines.
5. Bend inward 90° at A.
5. Bend downward 45° at B.
6. Bend inward 90° along the center
line.
7. Tack-solder the ends to the tray,
locating them carefully.
8. Finish soldering (a small electric
soldering copper or a soldering gun
would be convenient here).
9. Clean the stock, and finish as de¬
sired.
 33

OPPORTUNITIES FOR
INDIVIDUAL DESIGN OF
ENDS AND EDGES

^srtv-r
£4-i-U
ENDS @
HAKE 2

UNIT II CRACKER BOAT GRADE I

34

WALL POCKET III

A container which may be hung on a wall and can be used for many
purposes. If one is to be used as an indoor mail box, a window should
be cut in the front.

Materials List
1 piece 26 to 28 gauge galvanized iron
or tin plate, 7|" x 12"

References
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
Work.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.

Procedure
1. Cut the stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines.
3. Cut on the cutting lines and punch
out the hole for hanging. If a win¬
dow is desired, cut it out at this
time.
4. Bend the hems inward on lines A.
5. Bend inward 90° on line B.
6. Bend inward 90° on entire line C.
7. Bend inward 90° on lines D and E.
8. Bend inward 90° on line F, bring¬
ing the laps outside the side and the
bottom.
9. Tack-solder the side lap near the
top and the bottom.
10. Solder the laps to the bottom.
11. Finish soldering the side lap.
12. Clean up the pocket, and brighten
with steel wool.
 35
1131614

UNIT II WALL POCKET GRADE 2

36

SPICES BOX z.;

A box such as this keeps all of the spices in one place. The front is
low to permit the labels on the boxes to be read. Decorate the spices
box to match the kitchen decorations.

Materials List
1 piece 27 or 28 gauge galvanized iron,
84" x 134"
References
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork
Essentials.

Procedure
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Bend the hem inward at A.
5. Bend the hems outward (toward
the back) on all lines B.
6. Bend inward 90° along entire lines
C.
7. Bend inward 90° on line D.
8. Bend inward 90° on line E, bring¬
ing the soldering laps outside the
ends.
9. Fit the bottom and front snugly
against the ends and tack-solder the
laps to the front.
10. Solder the bottom laps.
11. Finish soldering the front laps.
12. Punch holes for hanging the box
to a wall or door.
13. Clean up the box, and finish to suit.
37
38

PING PONG BALL CADDY “ '!

Table tennis players find this a convenience for holding those bouncy
little celluloid balls while they are not in use. Since there is very
little strain against the front of the bottom no soldering laps are
provided there. Instead, a drop of solder at the corner may be applied
if strength is needed.

Materials List
1 piece 28 gauge galvanized iron or alu¬
minum, 54" x llj?"

References
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
Work.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.

Procedure
1. Cut the stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines, and locating the hole for
hanging.
3. Cut on the cutting lines and punch
out the hole.
4. Bend the hem inward on line A.
5. Bend inward 90° on lines C.
6. Bend inward 90° along entire lines
D.
7. Bend inward 90° along line B.
8. Bend inward 90° along line E,
bringing the laps outside the sides.
9. Solder the laps to the sides.
10. Solder the front corners if desired.
11. Clean up and polish with steel wool.
 39

UNIT II PING PONG BALL CADDY GRADE 3

;
 Unit II

MEMO SLIP BOX

This desk convenience will keep note paper where it may be reached
easily. It may be enameled or lacquered in desired colors. Glue felt
or rubber feet to the corners to protect the desk finish. Dimensions
are for a box to hold 3" x 5" slips.

Materials List
1 piece 28 gauge or 30 gauge galvanized
iron or tin plate, 5f" x 10"

References
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork Es¬
sentials.

Procedure
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Bend all hems inward at A.
5. Bend inward 90° along entire lines
B.
6. Bend inward 90° along line C.
7. Bend inward 90° on line D, bring¬
ing the laps outside the sides.
8. Fit the back and top snugly to the
sides and tack-solder the top laps
to the sides.
9. Solder the back laps to the sides.
10. Complete soldering the top laps to
the sides.
11. Bend the front inward 90° at E,
with the laps outside.
12. Solder the front laps to the sides.
13. Clean and polish with steel wool;
finish as desired.
 41

UNIT II
42
RECIPE FILE
This popular commercial design has been modified to suit the be¬
ginners’ skills. Soldering is used instead of the common commercial
method of spot welding. Light gauge metal is recommended.
Materials List
Box: 1 piece 28 or 30 gauge sheet metal,
8£" x Hi"
Lid: 1 piece 28 or 30 gauge sheet metal,
51" x 8i"
References
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
Work.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Procedure
Box
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Bend hems inward at A.
5. Bend offset lap joints at B (see
inset X).
6. Bend upward 90° along entire lines
C.
7. Bend upward 90° along lines D,
bringing the laps outside.
8. Solder the laps to the ends.
Lid
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
Unit
Grade
II
showing bending lines and cutting
lines, and locating the holes for
hinge rivets.
3. Cut on the cutting lines and punch
out the rivet holes.
4. Bend hems inward on lines A.
5. Bend inward 90° along entire lines
B.
6. Bend inward 90° along lines C,
bringing the laps outside.
7. Solder the laps to the ends.
8. Fit the lid to the box, and locate
the rivet holes in the box by scrib¬
ing through the rivet holes in the
lid onto the ends of the box.
9. Remove the lid and punch out the
rivet holes in the box.
10. Replace the lid on the box and
check to see that the rivet holes
line up properly. Ream them out
slightly if necessary to bring them
into alignment.
11. Place and set the rivets, being care¬
ful that they are not riveted so
tightly that the lid will not move
easily.
12. Clean up the project and finish to
suit.
 43

UNIT II RECIPE FILE GRADE 4

Sauce Pan Manufacture
Stainless steel blanks are formed by deep
drawing on the press at left in (1), moved
by conveyor to the trimming press at the
right where excess metal is removed and the
edge beaded.
Photo (2) shows the blank, the drawn
pot and the edge after trimming; (3) shows
the beaded edge. The pot is copper clad at
this stage of manufacture. Parts of the
handle are shown in (4). Metal parts are
automatically cut and shaped in a single
machine.
Final stage of manufacture is buffing
and polishing (5).
Photos by Revere Copper and Brass
Incorporated
 Unit III

PROBLEMS WITH RIVETED CONSTRUCTION

In the projects of Unit III rivets are used in holding
parts together. Riveted joints are often stronger than
soldered joints and will withstand strains that would cause
the failure of a soldered joint.
The use of wire reinforcing for edges is introduced also.
Wiring not only stiffens and strengthens the edges, but
overcomes the danger of injury from sharp, raw edges of
metal. In addition to the use of wires as a strengthening
agent, it is also used for the pins in making hinged joints.
In preparation for riveting, the rivet holes should be
accurately centered on the matching pieces. They are
usually punched out while the metal is still flat. The beginner
may be tempted to delay punching out the holes until the
joining parts are brought together. This often leads to
avoidable difficulties.
Additional metal must be allowed in the layout for
setting down around the wire to be used. Reference books
should be consulted to learn about rivet kinds and sizes,
and about the amounts to be allowed for wire of different
sizes.
Tools needed are: solid punches, snips, bar folder or
other bending devices, rivet sets, riveting hammer or ball
pein hammer, setting hammer, and stakes or metal backing
blocks. A wiring machine is desirable as additional equip¬
ment.
46

LETTER HOLDER “ “

Brass, copper or aluminum may be used effectively, as well as mild

steel or galvanized iron in making this desk companion. Many op¬
portunities for individual design are offered, both for the shape
of the parts and their decoration. Aluminum is very effective in
this design. Use round head copper rivets for contrast.

Materials List 4. Trace the pattern on the front and

Front: 1 piece approximately 20 gauge the back.
metal, 34" x 4|" 5. Cut to shape and punch out the
Back: 1 piece same material and gauge, rivet holes.
4\” x 54" 6. Decorate by hammering, etching,
Spacer: 1 piece same material, 2f" x 44" piercing, etc.
Rivets: Appropriate to the material
Spacer
used
1. Cut the stock to the desired size.
References 2. Locate the bending lines and rivet
Johson and Newkirk, Metal Crafts. holes.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork 3. Punch out the rivet holes.
Essentials. 4. Bend on lines A.
Procedure 5. Rivet the back and front to the
Front and Back spacer.
1. Cut stock to over-all size. 6. Finish as desired.
2. Locate the rivet holes. NOTE: For thicker metal it may be de¬
3. Make a pattern for the chosen de¬ sirable to make holes with a drill
sign, and cut it to shape. or hand punch.
47
CAKE TURNER Unit III

In this version of a perennially popular project the handle is strength¬

ened by having a 14 gauge wire set into the edges.

Materials List
Blade: 1 piece heavy tin plate, 3^" x 4£"
Handle: 1 piece heavy tin plate, 1" x 10"
1 piece #14 galvanized wire,
20" long
References
Ludwig, Metalwork Technology and
Practice.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.

Procedure
Blade
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Draw arcs at the corners and locate
the rivet holes.
3. Cut the corners; punch out the
rivet holes.
4. Smooth the edges with a fine file.

Handle
1. Cut stock to over-all size; locate
and punch the holes.
2. Fold the edges for a #14 wire.
3. Cut 20" of #14 galvanized wire;
bend it at the middle, using f"
dowel as a form.
4. Leaving about of the loop ex¬
tending beyond one end, set the
metal down around the wire.
5. Flatten the metal beyond the ends
of the wire.
6. Bend the handle as shown.
7. Rivet the blade and handle together.
 49

UNI Till CAKE TURNER GRADE I

 Unit III

HOOK RACK
A rack such as this will find use in a variety of circumstances. As
a problem for the beginner in sheet metal work it provides experience
in working with some of the different weights of sheet metal, and
the use of the cold chisel and the file in making duplicate parts.

Materials List
Back: 1 piece 26 gauge galvanized iron,
3" x 12|"
Hooks: 6 pieces 18 gauge galvanized
iron, f" x 2§"
Rivets: 12-ounce tinners’ rivets

References
Barich and Smith, Metal Work for In¬
dustrial Arts Shops.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork
Essentials.

Procedure
Back
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines and locating the rivet holes.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Punch out the rivet holes and holes
for mounting.
5. Bend all hems toward the wall side
of the rack.

Hooks
1. Cut the stock to over-all size.
2. Make a pattern for the desired
shape, and on it locate the position
of the rivet hole.
3. Scribe around the pattern on the
stock and mark for the rivet holes
in all six hooks.
4. Cut to rough shape with cold chisel
and vise, and finish to shape with
appropriate files.
5. Punch out the rivet holes and
shape the hooks.
6. Rivet the hooks to the back.
 51

MAKE THE HOOKS

FROM IQ GAUGE
METAL CUT TO
ROUGH SHAPE
WITH A COLD
CHISEL. FINISH
WITH FILES.

HOOKS MAY BE
BENT INDIVIDUALLY
BEFORE RIVETING
TO THE BACK, OR
ALL MAY BE BENT
AROUND A
INCH ROD AFTER
RIVETING.

UNIT III HOOK RACK GRADE 2

52

tool rack
This tool rack is quite sturdy even when made with light material,
and can be made to accommodate more tools by lengthening the
back and adding more units to the holders. Punch holes in the back
to permit hanging in a suitable place.

Materials List
Back: 1 piece 26 to 28 gauge metal,
3f" x lOf"
Holder: 1 piece 26 to 28 gauge metal,
If" x 18±"
Rivets: 12 oz. tinners’ rivets

References
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork
Essentials.

Procedure
Back
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines, and locating all rivet holes.
3. Punch out the rivet holes.
4. Cut on the cutting lines.
5. Bend all hems backward.

Holder
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing the bending lines and the
cutting lines, and locating the rivet
holes. Note that rivet holes appear
in each fourth segment only, in
addition to those in each end.
3. Punch out the rivet holes.
4. Cut on the cutting lines.
5. Bend the hems inward.
6. Shape the pockets around a f"
mandrel; rivet to back.
53
54
utility box
These boxes are very popular projects. Mechanics use them for
carrying small tools; fishermen use them for tackle boxes; and they
are very practical as fire-resistant document boxes.
Materials List
Box: 1 piece 26 to 28 gauge galvanized
iron, 12" x 17f"
Lid: 1 piece 26 to 28 gauge galvanized
iron, 61" x 121"
Wire: 1 piece #9 or #10 galvanized
wire 281" long
1 piece #9 or #10 galvanized
wire 81" long
Hasp: 1 piece 18 gauge galvanized iron,
1" x 21"
Fittings: 5 pieces 26 to 28 gauge gal¬
vanized iron, 1" x 2"
Rivets: 10 oz. tinners’ rivets
References
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Broemel, Sheet Metal Workers’ Manual.
Procedure
Box
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines, and locating all rivet holes.
Note that the sides and ends of the
box are made yg" shorter on each
end above lines B to make allowance
for an offset lap around the top
to receive the lid.
3. Punch out the rivet holes.
4. Cut on the cutting lines.
5. Bend hems inward along lines A.
6. Make offsets along lines B (see
inset X).
7. Bend inward 90° along lines C.
8. Bend inward 90° along lines D,
with laps outside.
9. Rivet.
::::
Lid
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines, and locating all rivet holes.
Note that a notch of the same di¬
mensions as those for the hinges is
to be provided at the front center.
3. Punch out the rivet holes.
4. Cut on the cutting lines.
5. Fold outward for wire along all
four edges A.
6. Bend inward 90° on lines B.
7. Bend inward 90° on lines C, with
laps outside.
8. Cut and shape the wire.
9. Set the metal down around the
wire.
10. Rivet the corners.
Handle
1. Cut the wire to length and bend to
shape shown.
2. Cut two straps, f" x 2"; trim and
crease as shown.
3. Punch out the rivet holes.
4. Center the handle on the lid; place
one strap and scribe through the
rivet holes to locate the holes in
the lid.
5. Punch out the holes in the lid.
6. Rivet the first strap to the lid.
7. Place one end of the handle in the
first strap, locate the rivet holes
for the second strap.
8. Punch out the rivet holes and rivet
the strap down over the other end
of the handle.
(continued on page 62)
 55

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rain l<v

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^ALSO NOTCH FOR HASP, @

$ |~pp
FRONT CENTEFL
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ny
«y 4± l3j3
4i a
*4

. . M _
•fr ■BOND THUS
~L

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~Nj/j+- "j> gf -4-' "| I I
*0 21
T>|qp J Li

T a

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\U„JL

UNITin UTILITY BOX GRADE 3

56

WORK STAND II";

Model builders, radio workers and others who work with small parts
sometimes prefer to raise the work so that it will be closer to their
eyes, rather than to work in a stooped position. A work stand
makes this possible, and provides room for elbows and tools on the
work bench when the stand is placed on the bench. The holes along
the sides of the bench may be omitted. Some workmen use them
as a help in securing the work to the stand with rubber bands or
other means.

Materials List Legs

Top: 1 piece 26 gauge galvanized iron, 1. Cut the stock to over-all size.
12" x 15" 2. Lay out the design completely, lo¬
Legs: 4 pieces 26 gauge galvanized iron, cating bending lines, cutting lines
4" x 6±" and rivet holes.
Rivets: 12 oz. or 1 lb. tinners’ rivets 3. Punch out the rivet holes.
4. Cut on the cutting lines, including
References
the heavy line marked “cut" in the
Ludwig, Metalwork Technology and
drawing.
Practice.
5. Bend the hems inward on lines A.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
6. Bend inward 90° on line B.
Procedure 7. Bend inward 90° along line D.
Top 8. Fit the legs outside the top, and
1. Cut the stock to over-all size. rivet them to the top.
2. Lay out the design completely, 9. Bend the unhemmed side of the foot
showing cutting lines and bending inward 90° at line C.
lines, and locating all holes. 10. Bend the hemmed side under the
3. Punch out the holes. first side bringing the hem outside.
4. Cut on the cutting lines. 11. Close the hem, locking the foot to¬
5. Make open folds along all lines A, gether.
folding inward. 12. Complete each foot in the manner
6. Flatten both ends of each of the described above.
folds for a distance of 2". 13. Finish as desired, gluing protective
7. Bend inward 90° on lines B. pads to the feet if desired.
57
 58
mail box
Easy accessibility characterizes this mail box; yet it will not spill
the mail when the box is opened.
Materials List
Back: 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized iron,
104" x 11|"
Front: 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized iron,
9|" x 12"
Top: 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized iron,
3|" x 6|"
Magazine holder: 1 piece of #9 galvan¬
ized wire, 22" long
Hinge Pin: 1 piece of #16 galvanized
wire, 51" long
References
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork
Essentials.
Procedure
Back
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines, and locating the holes for the
rivets and the magazine holder.
3. Punch out the holes.
4. Cut on the cutting lines.
5. Bend hems inward along lines A.
6. Bend inward 90° along lines C.
7. Fold inward for #16 wire at B.
8. Cut 5|" of #16 wire and set the
metal down around it at B.
Front
1.Cut stock to over-all size.
2.Lay out a pattern for the sides on
|" squares.
3. Using this pattern and the dimen¬
sions given, lay out the design
completely, showing bending and
cutting lines, locating rivet holes.
4. Punch out the rivet holes.
::::
5. Cut on the cutting lines.
6. Bend inward about 45° at line A.
7. Bend inward 90° on line B.
8. Bend inward 90° on lines C, with
the laps outside.
9. Rivet.
10. Rivet the front to the back so that
it will turn easily.
Top
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending and cutting lines.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Bend upward about 45° at line A.
5. Bend downward almost 90° at line
C for the lock.
6. Bend downward 90° on lines D.
7. Fold downward for #16 wire along
line B.
8. Set the metal down around the wire
at B of the back.
9. Adjust the lock to hold the front
when the front and top are closed.
Magazine Holder
1. Cut 22" of #9 galvanized wire.
2. From its middle, measure 2|" to¬
ward each end.
3. Make 90° bends at both points.
4. Complete the shaping as in the
drawing. Note that the f" projec¬
tion at each end not only supports
the holder but also keeps the front
from opening too far.
5. Some form of window should be
cut into the front; individual de¬
sign is suggested for this. It may be
cut before or after the front is
riveted to the back.
6. Finish as desired.
59
60

TRANSFER CASE “
A metal transfer case is superior to a cardboard case because of
its greater strength, durability and resistance to fire. Add a hinge
hasp at the front and handle on the top if desired.

Materials List Front

Box: 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized iron,
19£" x 21i"
Front: 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized iron,
5£" x 13i"
Top: 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized iron,
5f" x 13£"
Wire: 1 piece #16 galvanized wire,
33" long
1 piece #16 galvanized wire,
121" long
Hinges: 2 pieces 28 gauge galvanized
iron, 1" x 2"
References
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
Work.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Procedure
Box
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines, and locating rivet holes.
Note the ^" slant at X, upper
front, to permit the closing of the
top.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Punch out all the rivet holes.
5. Fold the hems inward on all lines
A.
6. Fold outward for #16 wire at B.
7. Bend inward 90° along entire lines
C.
8. Bend inward 90° on line D.
9. Bend inward 90° on line B,
ing the laps outside.
10. Rivet.
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending and cutting lines.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Fold the hem inward at line A.
5. Fold outward for #16 wire at B.
6. Bend inward 90° at lines C.
7. Set the metal down around the #16
wire at B.
8. Fit the hinge to the wire fold B
on the box, and set the metal down
around the wire.
9. Bend the front slightly to fit the
corners X.
Top
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines, and locating the rivet holes.
3. Punch out the rivet holes.
4. Cut on the cutting lines.
5. Fold outward for #16 wire along
the edges.
6. Bend inward 90° on lines A.
7. Bend inward 90° on lines B, bring¬
ing the laps outside.
8. Shape #16 wire to fit the top, and
set the wire fold down around it.
9. Rivet the corners.
10. Fit the hinges into the notches and
punch rivet holes.
11. Set the top in place and mark for
fivet holes on the box.
12. Remove the top, punch out the rivet
bring¬ holes, replace the top and rivet the
hinges to the box.
^ 13. Finish as desired.
61
62
UTILITY BOX /CONI)
Hasp
1.Cut stock to over-all size, tapering
one end slightly.
2. Bend around a mandrel then place
the stock in a vise (see sketch) and
file the slot.
3. Straighten out the metal.
4. Shape the upper end around the
wire at the front center of the lid;
bend the lower end outward.
Hinges
1.Cut two pieces, 1" x 2", and bend
in the middle.
2. Fit the hinges through the wire at
the notches on the back of the lid,
and set them down around the
wire.
3. Punch rivet holes through both
thicknesses of metal on both hinges.
4. Fit the lid in place and scribe
through the rivet holes to locate
the corresponding rivet holes on
the box.
5. Remove the lid and punch out the
holes.
6. Replace the lid and rivet the hinges,
setting one rivet in each hinge
first, to keep the lid in line, then
complete the riveting.
Hasp Eye
1. Cut stock 1" x 2".
2. Bend the stock double at the center
line.
3. Punch or drill a y\" or i" hole for
a padlock.
4. Bend back the two wings 90° (see
sketch).
5. Round the lower edge slightly.
6. Punch two rivet holes in each wing.
7. Pass the eye through the hasp slot
and locate its position on the box.
8. Mark the positions of the rivet
holes on the box; remove the eye
and punch out the holes.
9. Rivet the eye to the box.
 63

Unit IV

PROBLEMS WITH OBLIQUE LINES

Probably the most fascinating and challenging part
of sheet metalwork deals with the laying out of flat metal
so that it can be formed into objects of a desired shape
and size. There are cylinders, cones, pyramidal shapes,
transitions from rectangular to round or oval, cylinders
joining each other at various angles, and combinations of
these and others in seemingly limitless variations.
In presenting some of the simpler of these problems
to beginning students it may be assumed that they have had
but limited opportunity to master the theories and principles
involved in their layout. Accordingly, the instructional
material in this unit will include directions for laying out
the stock so as to find the true lengths of the oblique lines.
Laying out soldering or riveting laps, and locating
matching rivet holes also requires understanding, so these
processes will be explained.
Wire reinforcing is used in several of the projects. The
wire should be shaped to fit before it is set into an edge,
and the ends of the wire should not meet at a corner.
A center punch, a hand drill or a drill press, and steel
drills of the sizes necessary for the rivets to be used, should
be available. Sometimes a tapered reamer may be needed to
correct slight errors in the position of the rivet holes.
FLAG HOLDER
Unit IV

This project has been suggested as one suitable for a group project
in which each member of the class would make one or more for
distribution to various classrooms or other groups. Since experience
in layout of the projects in this unit is such an important purpose
of the unit, it is hoped that this value will not be neglected even
though quantity production methods may be indicated in making a
large number of flag holders.

Materials List
1 piece of 26 gauge sheet metal, alu¬
minum suggested, 3f" x 64"

References
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
Work.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.

Procedure
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing the bending lines and cut¬
ting lines, and locating all holes.
3. Punch out the holes.
4. Cut on the cutting lines.
5. Bend outward 90° on lines A.
6. Bend outward slightly on lines B.
7. Form the metal between lines B
around a §" rod or dowel to form
a cylinder with the lines B meeting.
8. Lock the flag holder together by
bending the laps C tightly over the
ends.
9. Finish to suit.
65
66

BARBECUE SHOVEL H"

While many shovels of this type are made with flaring sides, this
one has sides perpendicular to the bottom. While this simplifies con¬
struction, it also provides a shovel that will get into corners which a
flared shovel would not reach.

Materials List 9. With the intersections of C and D

Shovel: 1 piece 18 or 20 gauge mild
steel, 6" x 7f"
Handle: 1 piece &" strap iron, f" x 11"
Rivets: 2 1# tinners’ rivets for the
corners
3 jV' x l" or f" round head
rivets
References
Ludwig, Metalwork Technology and
Practice.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Procedure
Shovel
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the lines C and D, extend¬
ing them the full dimensions of the
stock.
3. Measure outward §" from the ends
of line C and draw lines B.
4. Draw §" arcs outward at the other
ends of lines D.
5. Draw lines E tangent to the arcs
just drawn, from the ends of lines
B.
6. Draw lines outside, and parallel
to lines B for the rivet laps.
7. Locate and draw center lines on the
laps.
8. On lines B locate points f" from
the intersections of C and D. From
these points draw perpendiculars
cutting the center lines of each lap,
thus locating the rivet holes.
as centers, and radius B, draw arcs
cutting lines D.
10. Connect the ends of the arcs with
line A. Stock extending beyond line
A is to be used for a hem.
11. Complete the layout according to
the drawing.
12. Punch or drill out the rivet holes.
13. Cut on the cutting lines.
14. Bend the hem inward along line A.
15. Bend inward about 75° along line
C.
16. Bend inward 90° along lines B.
17. Bend inward 90° on lines D, with
the laps outside.
18. Rivet.
Handle
1. Cut stock to length and dress the
ends.
2. Locate and center punch for the
rivet holes and for a hole for hang¬
ing up the shovel.
3. Drill the holes.
4. Countersink for the rivet holes on
the underside of the handle.
5. Bend to fit the shovel.
6. Rivet the handle to the shovel, plac¬
ing the heads on the inside of the
shovel, and expanding the rivets
into the countersunk holes.
7. For a nicely finished job, the riv¬
eted ends should be filed smooth
and even with the under surface of
the handle.
67
68
PET FEEDING TRA Y
Not only is this tray convenient for feeding small pets, but it can
also be used as a container for small parts, nails and screws.
Materials List
1 piece 28 gauge aluminum, galvanized
iron or tin plate, 7" x 9"
1 piece #14 galvanized wire, 20" long
12 oz. tinners’ rivets
References
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
Work.
Welch, Elements of Sheet Metal Work.
Procedure
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Locate all lines A, B and D and
draw them the full dimensions of
the material.
3. On the sides measure outward i"
from lines B along lines A.
4. From the respective intersections of
lines B and D draw lines C to the
points thus found.
5. On the ends measure outward 4"
from lines D along lines A.
6. Draw lines E connecting the points
thus located with the respective in¬
tersections of lines B and D.
7. Measure outward 4" from lines C
and draw lines for the laps parallel
to lines C.
8. Draw center lines in the laps, paral¬
lel to lines C.
H"
9. Measure for the rivet holes in the
laps along lines C.
10. Through the points thus found
draw perpendiculars to lines C,
cutting the center lines of the laps.
These intersections locate the rivet
holes in the laps.
11. Draw lines inside and parallel
to lines E.
12. Along lines E measure spaces for
rivet holes.
13. Draw perpendiculars to lines E
through the points thus found, cut¬
ting the center lines locating rivet
holes in the ends to correspond with
those in the laps.
14. Punch out the rivet holes.
15. Cut on the cutting lines.
16. Fold outward for #14 wire along
the edges of the tray.
17. Bend inward about 75° along lines
B.
18. Bend the laps inward 90° along
lines C.
19. Bend the sides inward to meet the
ends, with the laps outside the ends.
20. Rivet.
21. Bend the wire to fit; do not make
the ends meet at a corner.
22. Set the metal down around the wire.
23. If this tray is to hold liquids, the
corners should be soldered.
69
70
PLANTER
This planter is intended for use out-of-doors. Its length may be varied
to suit a particular situation as is indicated by the dimension X,
which will determine the over-all length, Y, of the stock.
Materials List
Container: 1 piece 26 gauge galvanized
iron, 16^" x length Y.
Hangers: 2 pieces strap iron, i" x 1" x
18"
Wire: 1 piece #9 or #10 galvanized
wire, length to fit
Rivets: For the container, 12 oz. tinners’
rivets; for the hanger, x 11. Punch out the rivet holes.
References
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
Work.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork
Essentials.
Procedure
Container
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Draw lines A, B and C.
3. On the end lines A measure the
width of the top (5^") from the end
of line B.
4. Draw the lines D as shown.
5. With the intersections of lines C
and D as centers, and lines D as
radii, draw arcs to lines C, thus
locating line E, which is now
drawn.
6. Add the allowance for the wired
edge beyond line E.
7. Draw the rivet laps for the front
and the back in accordance with the
dimensions given, and locate their
center lines.
8. Draw center lines for rivet holes
inside, and parallel to lines D.
" ;
9. On lines D space rivet holes in ac¬
cordance with the drawing, and
draw perpendiculars to lines D
through the points thus located,
cutting the center lines.
10. Complete the locating of the rivet
holes, following the dimensions
given.
12. Cut on the cutting lines.
13. Bend outward for the wire folds
along lines A and E.
14. Bend inward 90° along the entire
length of lines C.
15. Bend inward along lines B so that
the front and back meet the ends,
with the laps outside.
16. Rivet.
17. Cut the wire and shape it to fit. Do
not make the ends meet at a corner.
18. Set the metal down around the wire.
Hangers
1. Cut two pieces of strap iron to size.
2. Dress the ends of both pieces.
3. Centerpunch and drill holes for
rivets and for hanging.
4. Locate the bending lines, and bend
both pieces at the same time.
5. Determine the distance between the
hangers and cut a spacer about 4"
longer than this distance.
6. Dress the ends of the spacer, center-
punch and drill the rivet holes, and
rivet the spacer to the hangers.
7. Paint or enamel both container and
hanger assembly.
 71

HANGERS - MAKE 2 <^D

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X-DESIRED LENGTH j
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Y=XPLUS Ilf /
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5& 5* /
■/6

UNIT IV PLANTER GRADE 3

72
ivy cart
A bit of novelty always adds interest when planters are concerned.
This one somewhat resembles the “concrete buggies” which builders
still use. In addition to its use as a planter it would also make a sturdy
toy for the sand pile.
Materials List
Box: 1 piece 27 or 28 gauge galvanized
iron, 9£" x 10f"
#10 galvanized iron wire:
1 piece 18" long
1 piece 14^" long
1 piece 4f" long
Wheels: 2 pieces If" in diameter and f"
thick, made of wood. These may be
cut from a cylinder, cut perpendic¬
ular to its axis, or may be sawed
out of plywood or other stock.
Rivets: 12 oz. tinners’ rivets
Other: 4 spacers for the axle, punched
from waste stock
1 axle bearing and 1 handle clip,
also from waste stock
References
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork
Essentials.
Procedure
Box
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Draw all lines A except the one at
the front (dimensioned X). Also
draw lines C, D and E.
3. Locate points on lines A on the
sides, 6" from line C.
4. Draw lines B from these points to
the intersections of lines D and E.
5. With the intersections of lines D
and E as centers, and lines B as
radii, draw arcs cutting lines E,
thus locating line A. Draw line A.
6. Draw lines parallel to and out¬
side of lines B for the rivet laps.
:
7. Draw center lines on the laps.
8. In the same manner lay out laps
and center lines along lines C.
9. Measuring along lines B, space for
the rivet holes.
10. Draw perpendiculars to lines B
through the points thus found, cut¬
ting the center lines, and locating
the rivet holes.
11. Locate the rivet holes in the laps
along lines C according to the di¬
mensions given in the drawing.
12. Locate the rivet holes in the front
and back according to the dimen¬
sions in the drawing. These should
correspond to those in the laps.
13. Punch out the rivet holes.
14. Cut on the cutting lines.
15. Fold outward for #10 wire along
all lines A.
16. Bend in about 45° along line D.
17. Bend laps in 90° along lines B.
18. Bend in 90° along entire line C.
19. Bend the sides inward 90° along
lines E, with laps outside the ends.
20. Rivet.
21. Cut and fit the wire around the
top. Do not start at a corner.
22. Set the metal down around the
wire.
Wheels
1. Make wooden wheels, O, by any
convenient method. Bore holes at
the center for #10 axle wire.
2. Punch out washers or spacers from
waste stock with a hollow punch.
(continued on page 84)
 73

4- +
s
45 -
M. 4-
Jl
-r 3
J

\t■ — ** -9m

1_j|_

UNIT IV IVY CART GRADE 3

74

HANGING PLANTER “ I
This planter may be hung against a wall, or from a wall bracket. If
made of copper, brass or aluminum, it will need no other decoration;
if made of galvanized iron or black iron, it should be enameled or
lacquered. Decalcomanias may be added.

Materials List 7. Lay out the riveting laps parallel

1 piece of sheet metal, 26 to 28 gauge,
12" x 12"
12 oz. tinners’ rivets, or rivets appro¬
priate to the metal used
References
Daugherty, Sheet-metal Pattern Draft¬
ing and Shop Problems.
Welch, Elements of Sheet Metal Work.
Procedure
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Draw center lines horizontally and
vertically.
3. Upon these center lines locate and
draw lines D on the sides, also lines
B and C extending the full dimen¬
sions of the material.
4. Measure §" outward from lines B,
along lines D.
5. From the points thus found draw
lines A to the intersections of lines
C and B.
6. With the length of lines A as radii,
and the intersections of lines C and
B as centers, draw arcs cutting
lines C, thus locating lines D on the
ends.
to, and ¥' outside of lines A. Draw
center lines for the laps.
8. Measure along lines A to space the
rivet holes, then draw lines through
the points thus located, making
them perpendicular to lines A, and
cutting the center lines, thus lo¬
cating the rivet holes in the laps.
9. Lay out the remainder of the design
in accordance with the dimensions
given.
10. Punch out the rivet holes.
11.. Cut on the cutting lines.
12. Bend the ends inward almost 90°
on lines B.
13. Bend the rivet laps inward 90° on
lines A.
14. Bend the sides inward 90° on lines
C, with the laps outside the ends.
15. Rivet.
16. If the planter is to hang against the
wall, roll the top front and sides
over a rod or mandrel, and punch
a hole in the back for hanging.
17. If the planter is to hang from a
bracket, roll the back also. Hang
from the bracket with loops passing
under the end rolls.
75
76
COTTAGE MAIL BOX
This mail box may be made of copper, brass or galvanized iron.
Soldering is preferred over riveting except when attaching the mag¬
azine holder to the box.
Materials List
Box: 1 piece 26 to 28 gauge sheet metal,
Ilf" x 17"
Lid: 1 piece 26 to 28 gauge sheet metal,
4" x 13"
Magazine holder: 2 pieces mild steel
strap iron, i" x x 12"
Hinge pin: 1 piece #10 galvanized iron
wire, 11^" long
Rivets: 4 tinners’ rivets (1 lb.) for at¬
taching magazine holder
References
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork
Essentials.
Procedure
Box
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out lines B and C, and the
notches for the hinge.
3. Locate centers on B, 2" above line
C, and draw 2" arcs.
4. Draw tangents to these arcs from
the top edge of the ends.
5. Measure down £" from the outer
corner of the top edge as shown,
and draw lines E.
6. Divide the arcs drawn into seg¬
ments such as M, N, O, P and Q.
7. Step off segments of corresponding
size along lines B as shown. Add
segment R. This gives the true
length of the front of the box.
8. Connect the ends of the front with
line A, and add the hem allowance.
9. Locate the rivet holes.
10. Draw the lines for the solder laps
on the front, outside lines B.
II 'I
11. Punch or cut a window in the front.
12. Cut on the cutting lines, making
notches of about 15° between each
of the segments on the front.
13. Bend inward 90° along lines B.
14. Bend the front to fit the sides,
bringing the soldering laps inside.
15. Shape a backing block of wood to
fit the front curve, and solder the
laps to the sides, starting at M.
16. Bend hem outward along line A.
17. Fold the top of the back for wire.
18. Cut #10 wire for the hinge pin and
set it into the back.
Magazine Holder
1. Lay out the pattern for the holder.
2. Cut to length, and dress the ends.
3. Locate and drill the mounting holes
and rivet holes.
4. Bend the stock to fit the pattern.
5. Locate rivet holes and mounting
holes in the back to match those in
the magazine holder, and punch.
6. Rivet holders to the back of the box.
Lid
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out completely, including the
design for the front and sides.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Fold for #10 wire at the back (see
detail at the hinge).
5. Bend down 90° along lines A and B.
6. Fit the lid to the box, and set the
metal down to complete the hinge.
7. Monograms or escutcheons may be
riveted to the front, and the box
finished in dead black, or in colors.
77
78

FLOOR TOOL TRAY “ I

Mechanics who work under cars or other machinery like a tool tray
that can be moved so as to keep their tools near at hand. Since
such a tray receives hard use, it should be made of heavy material.
To counteract the wear on the bottom, as well as to make the tray
slide more easily, strap iron skids or small casters should be riveted
to the bottom. Step-by-step procedure in making the upper and the
lower trays is identical, so the instructions given will apply to both.
Make the lower tray and the sides first.

Materials List 6. With the intersections of B and D

Lower tray: 1 piece 20 gauge black iron,
151" x 17f"
Upper tray: 1 piece 20 gauge black iron
or galvanized iron, 12f" x 15"
Sides: 2 pieces 20 gauge black iron or
galvanized iron, 5" x 12"
Handle: 1 piece hardwood, pipe or steel
tubing 11" long
2 large R.H. screws for the
wooden handle, or 2 wooden plugs
to fit the ends of the pipe or tubing,
and a rod, Ilf" long and
threaded on both ends, with nuts
to fit.
References
Ludwig, Metalwork Technology and
Practice.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork
Essentials.
Procedure
Trays
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Draw lines A, and D on the sides.
3. Draw lines B across the width of
the stock, measuring from the cen¬
ter line.
4. Measure outward along lines A,
the given distances from lines B.
5. Draw lines C from the points thus
located to the respective intersec*
tions of lines B and D.
as centers, and lines C as radii,
draw arcs cutting lines D, thus
finding the true width of the ends.
7. Draw end lines A. (Any stock re¬
maining will be folded for hems.)
8. Draw lines for the laps, 4" outside
and parallel to lines C.
9. Draw center lines on the laps.
10. Lay off spaces for rivets along
lines C.
11. Through the points located, draw
perpendiculars to lines C, cutting
the center lines and thus locating
the rivet holes in the laps.
12. Complete the layout in accordance
with the drawing.
13. Punch or drill out the rivet holes.
14. Cut on the cutting lines.
15. Bend the hems inward along lines
A.
16. Bend upward about 45° along lines
B.
17. Bend laps inward 90° along lines C.
18. Bend upward 90° along lines D,
with the laps outside.
19. Rivet, using 1 lb. tinners’ rivets.
Sides
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines.
(continued on page 80)
 79

RIVET 2 3KIDS OF gX^-X/2 STRAP IRON TO UNDER

SIDE OF BOTTOM TRAY, ONE INCH EROM EDGES.

UNIT IV FLOOR TOOL TRAY GRADE 4

80
FLOOR TOOL TRAY /CON'T)
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Bend outward on the bending lines.
(Note: for greater rigidity the
hems should be bent 90°; if it is
objectionable to leave them so, they
may be closed tightly.)
5. Locate positions for 4 rivet holes
for each tray and punch or drill
them out.
6. Line up the sides carefully, center¬
ing them on the lower tray. Scribe
positions of the rivet holes on the
tray. Remove the sides and punch
or drill out the rivet holes on the
tray.
Skids
1. If skids are to be used, they should
be riveted to the under side of the
bottom tray before the sides are
riveted in place. Prepare skids of
the material desired, and drill holes
for the rivets to be used. Counter¬
sink the rivet holes on the under
side of each skid. Locate and drill
rivet holes in the bottom of the tray,
and rivet the skids in place.
Assembly
1. Rivet the sides to the lower tray.
2. Carefully line up upper tray; locate
and punch or drill out the rivet
holes in the sides and the upper
tray, and rivet the upper tray to the
sides.
Handle
1. If the handle is to be of hardwood,
its ends should be square. Drill
holes in the sides and the handle
ends for R.H. wood screws. Use
washers when attaching the screws.
If pipe or tubing is to be used,
plug the ends with snugly fitting
hardwood plugs about 2" long. Drill
i" holes through their centers, and
through the tray sides. Pass the
rod, threaded on both ends, through
the sides and the plugs. Tighten the
nuts on each end.
 81

UNIT IV FLOOR TOOL TRAY GRADE 4

82
TREASURE CHEST
“Something different” for jewels, trinkets, coin collections and other
keepsakes. Many decorative treatments suggest themselves. Alu¬
minum is very effective. Brass or copper straps may be used for
trim and hinges. Matching rivets should be used.
Materials List
Bottom: 1 piece 27 or 28 gauge sheet
metal, 13f" x 15f"
Lid: 1 piece 27 or 28 gauge sheet metal,
8f" x Ilf"
Hasp: 1 piece 18 or 20 gauge sheet
metal, 1" x 2f"
1 piece 18 or 20 gauge sheet metal,
1" x If"
Hinges: 2 pieces 27 or 28 gauge sheet
metal, 1" x 1"
2 pieces 27 or 28 gauge sheet
metal, 1" x If"
Eye: 1 piece 27 or 28 gauge sheet metal,
1" x 2"
Rivets: 12 oz. tinners’ rivets, or to
match material used
Straps: Materials and dimensions as
desired
References
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
Work.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Procedure
Bottom
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Draw a center line lengthwise of
the stock. Measuring inward from
each end, locate and draw lines A,
B and C.
3. Measure 2f" on each side of the
center line on lines B.
4. Measure If" on each side of the
center line on lines C.
5. Draw lines D and E.
6. Make -jV' offsets as at X for offset
laps.
III
7. With the intersections of lines C
and D as centers, and lines E as
radii, draw arcs cutting lines C,
thus finding the true widths of the
sloping sides, and locating lines B
on the sides.
8. Draw center lines f" inside and
parallel to lines E.
9. Space the rivet holes along lines E.
10. Draw perpendiculars to lines E
through these points, cutting the
center lines to locate the rivet holes.
11. Complete the layout, following the
dimensions given.
12. Punch out the rivet holes.
13. Cut on the cutting lines.
14. Fold the hems inward on lines A,
closing them on the sides but leav¬
ing them partly open on the ends.
15. Make the offset laps (see inset X.)
16. Bend inward 90° on the lines C,
between lines B on the sides.
17. Bend laps marked X inward 90°.
18. Bend inward slightly along lines B
on the sides.
19. Bend inward along lines D until
the sides meet the ends, with the
laps outside. Work the laps X under
the partly closed hems.
20. Rivet.
21. Complete the closing of the end
hems, locking laps X.
Lid
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out. Since this is so similar to
the layout of the bottom, the work-
(continued on page 8U)
83
84
TREASURE CHEST (CON'T)
man is referred to the instructions
given above. The lid has no offset
lap, so no provision is made for it.
3. Construction. This also follows the
information given for the bottom
with the exception of that for the
offset lap. The lid should fit the
bottom nicely.
Hasp
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
using individual plans.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Make a half bend crosswise over
a mandrel, then clamp in a vise and
file a slot through the bent part.
5. Cut out the hinge leaf of the hasp,
and punch out rivet holes.
6. Straighten out the hasp leaf, then
IVY CART /CONI)
Do not flatten the washers. Punch
holes at the centers for the axle.
3. Cut and straighten the axle; rivet
or spread one end. Assemble the
washers and wheels on the axle so
that a washer is on each side of
each wheel, the cupped side being
toward the wheel. With the dis¬
tance between the inside washers
or spacers slightly greater than the
width of the box, rivet the other
end of the axle, first cutting off
any excess wire. Shape the riveted
ends with a file.
4. Make the axle bearing M, grooving
it to fit the axle and punching out
the rivet holes.
5. Place the bearing so that its outer
edge is even with the front edge
of the box and scribe for the rivet
holes on the bottom.
6. Remove the bearing and punch out
close the hinge ends around a piece
of #10 wire.
7. Locate and punch out holes for the
rivets in the lid.
8. Rivet the hasp to the lid, fitting it
as needed.
Eye
1. Hasp eyes may be made to indi¬
vidual design. One is shown in the
drawing. Rivet the eye to the bot¬
tom after the hinges are attached.
Hinges
1. Hinges may be made from the
dimensions shown, or may be made
on the ends of the decorative straps.
If straps are used for hinges, the
hinge must come at the joint be¬
tween the bottom and the lid.
the rivet holes in the bottom.
7. Place the axle assembly in the bear¬
ing groove, and rivet the bearing to
the box.
Handle
1. Cut and straighten #10 wire for
the handle. Shape it as shown in
the drawing. Note the location of
the ends of the wire.
2. Cut a handle clip, N, 1^" x 2f";
locate and punch out the rivet holes.
3. Fold the clip ends for #10 wire;
place the handle in the clip and ad¬
just the position of the handle with
reference to the radii of the wheels.
4. Set the metal down around the
handle.
5. Scribe for the rivet holes in the
back of the box.
6. Punch out the rivet holes; replace
the clip and rivet it to the box.
Unity

PROBLEMS WITH CYLINDRICAL FORMS

Cylindrical projects present a group of operations most
of which have not been encountered in the previous units.
These may be listed as follows:
Computing the amount of material needed to make
a cylinder of a required diameter
Computing the allowances necessary for grooved
or locked seams, taking into consideration the
width of the groove in the groover to he used
Computing the allowance for double seams
Computing the allowance for wired edges
Forming in the slip-roll forming machine
Making grooved or locked seams
Turning burred edges with the burring machine or
by hand
Making double seams
Using a setting down machine
Setting down the metal around a wire with a wiring
machine or a setting hammer
Soldering grooved seams and double seams
Please note that the allowances shown for grooved seams
in the drawings should be varied in accordance with the
size of the groover to be used.
While burrs can be made without a machine, it is a
tedious and usually an uneven job. A burring machine is
recommended for this work.
A setting down machine is less necessary than a burring
machine, but is desirable when much work is to be done.
BRUSH HOLDER
Unit V

This is a simple problem giving experience in several basic operations.

With careful soldering it can serve as a vase as well as a brush holder.

Materials List
Cylinder: 1 piece 28 gauge sheet metal
5|" x 7"
1 piece #10 galvanized wire
6i" long
Base: 1 piece 28 gauge sheet metal 3f"
x 3f"

References
Grayshon, General Metal Work.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.

Procedure
Cylinder
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out and cut the notches in the
upper corners.
3. Fold the upper edge for #10 wire.
4. Fold the ends for a grooved seam.
5. Cut the wire to length and set it
into the edge.
6. Roll the cylinder to shape and close
the grooved seam.
7. Set the metal down around the end
of the wire.
8. Solder the seam.

Base
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Choose the shape of base to be used
and lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Fold the hems at the edges.
5. Center the bottom of the cylinder
on the base and solder cylinder and
base together.
6. Glue protective material to the base.
87
88

CANDLESTICK Z. I
The drawings show a candlestick similar to many that were in
everyday use by our forefathers. Made of copper or brass, its simple
dignity would grace a mantelpiece. (Perhaps a pair of them would
be still better.) Of whatever metal, a candlestick (with a candle in
it) is very welcome on those rare occasions when the power fails.

Materials List 3. Turn a 4" burr so that the bottom

Rim or barrel: 1 piece 27 or 28 gauge
metal If" x 16f
1 piece #14 galvanized wire 15f"
long
Bottom: 1 piece same material 54" di¬
ameter
Holder: 1 piece same material 14" x 24"
Handle: 1 piece same material 14" x 4"
Drip cup: 1 piece same material 14" in
diameter
References
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Welch, Elements of Sheet Metalwork.
Procedure
Rim
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Fold for #14 wire.
5. Fold the ends for a grooved or
locked seam.
6. Cut #14 galvanized wire to length,
and set it into the top edge.
7. Roll in the forming machine.
8. Close the grooved seam and set
down around the end of the wire.
9. Turn a 4" burr on the bottom edge.
Bottom
1. Draw a circle of 54" diameter on
the stock.
2. Cut to shape.
will fit the rim.
4. Complete a double seam attaching
the bottom to the rim.
Drip Cup
1. Draw circles of 4" and 14" radius
on waste stock.
2. Punch out the center with a 4"
hollow punch. Do not flatten the
cup or burr formed by the punch.
3. Cut on the outer line.
4. Dress the edges with a fine file if
necessary.
Holder
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Form into a cylinder which will fit
the drip cup.
3. Solder the lap.
4. Solder the drip cup to the upper
end of the holder.
5. Center the holder on the bottom
and solder it in place.
Handle
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Fold the hems along the sides.
5. Bend to shape, with the lower lap
bent upward.
6. Solder the lower lap.
7. Solder the upper lap.
NOTE: While it is not necessary
to solder the seams for strength
they may be soldered for better ap¬
pearance.
 89

USE- IN. HOLLOW

PUNCH. DO NOT
FLATTEN THE BURR

DRIP CUP ^<0 © HANDLE

I |

$ 4- %
© 1
i
i
•
i
RIM i *
-1-4

U-5 - A

UNIT V CANDLESTICK GRADE 2

90

PLANTER III
The planter as here developed is supported by a base. By omitting
the base and adding two ears as suggested in the left sketch the
planter may be hung from a bracket. Copper or brass make a very
handsome planter, but galvanized iron, attractively enameled and
decorated, is also quite satisfactory.

Materials List 3" radius draw an arc at one end

Sides: 2 pieces 27 or 28 gauge sheet
metal 6£" diameter
Barrel: 1 piece same material 2" x 14§"
Base: 1 piece same material 2^" x 9^"
References
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
Work.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Procedure
Sides
1. Cut the stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Turn a burr on both pieces.
Barrel
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Fold hems inward on both ends.
3. Roll to shape.
4. Solder to one of the sides.
5. Prepare a backing block by using
a piece of wood about f " x 2" x 12".
With a center on one arris and a
of the block. Trim the block to the
curve thus drawn. Using this back¬
ing block clamped in a vise, solder
the other side to the barrel.
Base
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Bend both side hems inward.
5. Bend the end laps outward slightly.
6. Bend inward on lines A to fit
against the barrel.
7. Tack-solder the center of the base
to the bottom center of the planter
barrel; solder the end laps to the
barrel.
Finish
1. Clean up the job carefully with
steel wool. If enamel is to be ap¬
plied, clean the surface with a di¬
luted acid before enameling.
2. Roll the upper part of the sides
over a mandrel.
 91

PLANTER
92

INSECTICIDE DUSTER “ I
This convenience for dusting with dry insecticide can be made to
reach farther by inserting a broomstick or dowel in the handle.

Materials List 4. Solder both ends to the cylinder as

Cylinder: 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized shown.
iron, 64" x 104"
Handle
Ends: 2 pieces 28 gauge galvanized iron,
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
34" in diameter
2. Fold for the grooved seam.
Handle: 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized
3. Roll the stock into a cylinder and
iron, 4" x 5"
close the grooved seam.
Door: 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized iron,
4. Trim one end of the handle with
24" x 24"
snips or a half-round file to fit the
Hinge leaf: 1 piece galvanized iron, §"
cylinder. (NOTE: this method is
x 24"
recommended only when the
Catch: 1 piece brass spring wire, about
amount of the curvature is very
#18, 3" long
small. For other developed surfaces
1 piece galvanized iron, 44" x f"
see the references.)
References 5. Solder the handle to the cylinder,
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal half-way between the ends and
Work. perpendicular to the cylinder.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork. Door; Hinge; Leaf
Procedure 1. Cut the stock for both pieces to
Cylinder over-all size.
1. Cut stock to over-all size. 2. Lay out and cut the notches for
the hinge.
2. Lay out the design completely,
3. Bend for #14 wire hinge pin.
showing bending lines and cutting
4. Set the metal down around the wire
lines, including the opening marked
completing the hinge.
“out”.
5. Bend spring wire to form a catch,
3. Cut on the cutting lines, including
as shown.
the opening.
6. Solder the wire to the door as
4. Fold the ends for a grooved seam. shown at C.
5. Roll the cylinder to shape and close 7. Bend the door to fit the cylinder.
the grooved seam. 8. With the door held in place, solder
6. Solder the grooved seam. the hinge leaf to the cylinder.
9. Make catch part B as shown in the
Ends
sketch.
1. Cut two discs, 34" in diameter.
10. Solder part B to the cylinder to
2. On one disc lay out and punch out complete the catch.
holes as shown. Felt or rubber may be glued around
3. Turn burrs on both discs to fit the the edges of the door to minimize
ends of the cylinder. leakage.
 93

ii ii
«5> 3
Q “ 6h:
1 /
4"
HANDLE 1
<0
Mif /

_!_ CATCH-jin. SPRING WIRE ^

1-*-^

1 I
f- ^1

CYLINDER- MAKE /

ENDS - MAKE 2
PUNCH^ HOLES
45 DEGREES
APART OH IN.
L.^
CIRCLE, ONE END
]_
p- t-t-3 ONLY.
6 ~t_
62

UNIT V INSECTICIDE DUSTER GRADE3

 94

FEEDER "I I
This feeder works well with dry feed, such as grain. It gives ex¬
perience in several typical operations while making it, and is both
practical and inexpensive.

Materials List 3. Fold for #10 wire along the upper

Container, C: 1 piece 28 gauge galvan¬ edge.
ized iron, 6" x 11" 4. Fold the ends for a grooved seam.
Rim, A: 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized 5. Cut the wire to length and set the
iron, 2" x 22§" metal down around it.
Lid, E : 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized iron, 6. Form the cylinder and close the
3§" in diameter grooved seam.
Bottom, B: 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized 7. Solder the seam.
iron, 71" in diameter 8. Turn a £" burr around the bottom.
Separators, D: 3 pieces 28 gauge gal¬
Bottom, B
vanized iron, 2f" x 3f"
Wire: 1 piece #10 galvanized iron wire, 1. Lay out and cut a disc in di¬
22" long ameter.
2. Turn a burr on the edge to fit the
References burr on the rim.
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal 3. Fit the bottom to the rim and com¬
Work. plete a double seam.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork 4. Solder the double seam.
Essentials.
Separators, D
Procedure 1. Cut stock to over-all size (refer to
Container, C drawing D).
2. Lay out the design completely,
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
showing bending lines and cutting
2. Lay out and cut the notches for lines.
hems and folds.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
3. Fold the top and bottom hems. 4. Bend hems on lines X.
4. Fold the ends for a grooved seam. 5. Bend 90° on lines Y.
5. Form the cylinder and close the 6. Space the separators 120° apart
grooved seam. and solder them to the container
6. Solder the seam. so that the lower edges are 1" be¬
low the bottom of the container.
Rim, A 7. Fit the assembly inside the rim,
1. Cut stock to over-all size. adjusting lap widths if necessary.
2. Lay out and cut the notches for 8. Solder the front laps to the rim.
hems and folds. 9. Solder the separators to the bottom.
95
96
FISHHOOK 'N SINKER BOX III
The top of this box turns so that by opening the door access is had
to any of eight different compartments. A ring around the upper
edge holds the top permanently in place. An electric soldering copper
with a small tip, or a soldering gun, is recommended for the soldering
operations.
Materials List
All parts are 28 gauge tin plate or
galvanized iron.
Top and bottom: 2 pieces 6" diameter
Rim or barrel: 1 piece 1|" x 19£"
Dividers: 4 pieces 1^" x 5£"
Locking ring: 1 piece £" x 18f"
Door: 1 piece 3" x 3"
Hasp, hinge, catch: Scrap stock
References
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
Work.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Procedure
Bottom
1. Lay out and cut a 6" disc.
2. Draw 4 diameters spaced at 45°.
Dividers
1. Cut to size.
2. Bend in the middle to 45° angles.
3. Tack-solder dividers to bottom.
4. Trim off any ends that project.
5. Complete the soldering.
Rim
1. Cut stock to size.
2. Starting midway between a pair
of dividers, tack-solder the rim to
the bottom and to the ends of the
dividers, using weights or pressure
if necessary to keep the bottom
flat. Solder the overlapping ends
together. Finish the soldering.
Top
1. Lay out and cut a disc slightly
under 6" diameter, so that the top
will turn without binding.
2. Lay out and cut away the part
marked “out”.
Door
1. Lay out the design completely.
2. Cut on the cutting lines.
3. Lay out and cut the hinge leaf.
4. Cut a hinge pin from #16 wire, and
fold the hinge around it.
5. Cut and shape the hasp, and rivet
it to the door so that it can be
moved to lock and open the door.
6. Solder the hinge leaf to the top,
having placed the door so that it
overlaps the opening all around.
7. Cut and shape the catch, and solder
it to the top in its best position.
Locking Ring
1. Cut the stock to size.
2. Fold a i" hem, then fold again,
making a double hem.
3. Shape the ring and fit it over the
top. Dress the end if necessary.
4. With the ring in place over the
top, slip two thicknesses of metal
between the top and the ring and
tack-solder the ring to the rim over
each divider. Test to see whether
the top turns freely, then complete
the soldering. If too much solder
is used it may flow down to the top,
soldering it fast to the ring.
5. With a burnisher, such as a smooth
steel rod, press the upper edge of
the rim over the locking ring.
 97

MAKE /
y— FIT £ SOLDER 50 TOP TURNS
n ■ -V

7MX5

UNIT V FISHHOOK'N'SINKER BOX GRADE 4

98
LAZY SUSAN NAIL TRA Y Z. I
This project recommends itself especially to the workman who is
looking for a challenge to his skill and patience. Several shop periods
of average length will be needed. When completed the project should
be usable for a lifetime.
Materials List
Base rim, A: 1 piece 28 gauge galva¬
nized iron, If" x 19f"
1 piece #9 or #10 galva¬
nized wire, 19" long
Base bottom, B: 1 piece 28 gauge galva¬
nized iron, 61" in diameter
Ball race, C: 1 piece 28 gauge galva¬
nized iron, |" x 15"
Tray rim, D: 1 piece 28 gauge galva¬
nized iron, 2" x 29"
1 piece # 9 or #10 galva¬
nized wire, 281" long
Tray bottom, E: 1 piece 28 gauge galva¬
nized iron, 91" in diameter
Center tube, F: 1 piece 28 gauge galva¬
nized iron, 2f" x 41"
Bearing, G: 1 mild steel disc or washer,
1" thick, 1" diameter
Dividers, H: 4 pieces 28 gauge galva¬
nized iron, 4" x 9"
Center post, 1: 1 piece 1" mild steel rod,
5TV' long
Top cap, J: 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized
iron, 11" in diameter
Acorn nut: 1 acorn nut, 1-20 N. C.
thread
Lock nuts: 2 nuts, 1-20 N. C. thread
Glass marbles: 24, more or less, to al¬
most fill the ball race
References
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
Work.
Ludwig, Metalwork Technology and
Practice.
Procedure
Base Rim, A
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out and cut the notches in each
corner.
3. Fold the 1" hem.
4. Make a fold for #9 or #10 wire.
5. Fold the ends for a grooved seam.
6. Cut the wire to length and wire it
into the rim.
7. Shape the cylinder in the slip roll
machine.
8. Close the grooved seam; set the end
of the wire.
Base Bottom, B
1. Lay out the design and cut the
stock to shape.
2. Punch out a 1" hole at the center.
3. Fold the tabs downward and fit
the bottom inside the rim so that
the tabs are even with the bottom
of the rim.
4. Solder the bottom to the rim §"
below the top.
Ball Race, C
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out and cut the notches, spac¬
ing them apart.
3. Bend 90° at the base of the notches
to form an upright part f" wide.
4. Shape into a cylinder.
5. Make a spacer by adding two thick¬
nesses of 28 gauge metal to the
diameter of one of the marbles to
be used as bearings. Using this
spacer as a gauge, solder the tri¬
angular tabs to the bottom.
(continued on page 100)
99
LAZY SUSAN NAIL TRAY /CON'TJ
Center Post, I
1. Cut the stock to length.
2. Cut i-20 National Coarse threads
for distances of f" on each end.
3. Attach to the bottom with a nut
and washer on each side of the
bottom.
Tray Rim, D
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out and cut the notches in each
corner.
3. Make a fold for #9 or #10 wire.
4. Fold the ends for a grooved seam.
5. Cut the wire to length and wire it
into the rim.
6. Shape the cylinder in the slip roll
machine.
7. Close the grooved seam.
8. Turn a i" burr on the bottom edge.
Tray Bottom, E
1. Lay out the circles indicated and cut
to shape.
2. Punch a hole at the center.
3. Turn a burr at the edge to fit the
burr on the tray rim.
4. Fit the bottom and rim together
and complete a double seam around
the bottom.
Center Tube, F
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out and cut out the notches.
3. Bend the stock around a f" mandrel
to form a cylinder.
4. Solder the lap.
5. Bend the tabs outward 90°.
6. Prepare the bearing, G, fitting it
so that it will turn freely on the
center post, and will fit snugly
into the lower end of the center
tube.
7. With a center punch make several
dents into the center tube and bear¬
ing to keep the bearing in place.
8. Solder the tube at the center of the
bottom so that the hole in the bot¬
tom lines up with that in the bear¬
ing of the tube. The tube must be
perpendicular to the bottom.
Dividers, H
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Bend hems on the sloping edges.
5. Bend the end laps 90°.
6. Make 45° bends along the lines
indicated.
7. Fit the dividers between the center
tube and the tray rim.
8. Using a small-tipped electric solder¬
ing copper, solder the dividers to
the center tube, the rim and the
bottom.
Cap, J
1. Lay out the design and cut to shape.
2. Punch out the hole at the center.
3. Fit the cap to the top, bending the
tabs over the tops of the dividers.
Solder in place.
Assembly
1. Place the marbles in the ball race.
2. Fit the tray assembly upon the
center post.
3. Slip a washer over the center post.
4. Screw the acorn nut in place.
101

*
102
MINNOW BUCKET
While this minnow bucket has been simplified to bring its construc¬
tion within a boy’s ability, it nevertheless presents problems which
will challenge his skill. Boys who have made them (and fathers of
boys who have made them) are very proud of them.
Materials List
Inner barrel, D: 1 piece 27 or 28 gauge
galvanized iron, 9|" x 27f"
1 piece galvanized iron
or copper window screen, 8" x 26"
Inner bottom, E: 1 piece 27 or 28 gauge
galvanized iron, 9" in diameter
Lid, F: 1 piece 27 or 28 gauge galva¬
nized iron, lOf" in diameter
Outer barrel, A: 1 piece 27 or 28 gauge
galvanized iron, 10|" x 32^"
Outer bottom, B: 1 piece 27 or 28 gauge
galvanized iron, 10^" in diameter
Ears, C: 2 pieces 26 gauge galvanized
iron, 1" x 24"
Door, G: 1 piece 26 gauge galvanized
iron, 5" in diameter
Wire: 1 piece #9 or #10 galvanized
wire, 32£" long
1 handle, #9 or #10 galvanized
wire, 18" long
Miscellaneous: 2 hasps, 18 gauge galva¬
nized iron, f" x 2f"
1 hinge, 18 gauge gal-
nized iron, 1" x 2\”
1 turnbutton, about 1"
x ir
#14 galvanized wire
for the hasps
1 bail: #9 or #10 gal¬
vanized wire, 14" long
2 cleats for the bail,
about 1" x 2"
References
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
Work.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Z. I
Procedure
Inner Barrel, D
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines, including the windows.
3. Remove the metal for windows
(marked out in the drawing).
4. Solder the window screen over the
outside of the windows.
5. Bend the ends for a grooved seam.
6. Roll the barrel to shape, and close
the grooved seam. Solder the seam.
7. Turn a k" burr on the bottom.
8. Turn a burr on the top.
Bottom, E
1. Lay out and cut a 9" circle.
2. Turn a k" burr to fit the bottom
burr on the barrel.
3. Complete the double seam at the
bottom. Solder the seam.
Outer Barrel, A
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Fold at the top for #9 or #10 wire.
5. Fold at the ends for a grooved seam.
6. Cut and shape the wire and set it
into the wired edge.
7. Roll the barrel to shape and close
the grooved seam; complete the
wiring.
8. Turn a k" burr on the bottom.
(continued on page 104)
103
MINNOW BUCKET /CON'TJ
Bottom, B
1. Lay out and cut a 10£" circle.
2. Turn a burr on the bottom to fit
the burr on the barrel.
3. Complete the double seam at the
bottom. Solder the seams.
Lid, F
1. Lay out and cut the outer and inner
cutting circles, including the re¬
moval of the part marked “out.”
2. Turn a burr on the edge to fit the
wired edge of the outer bucket A.
3. Lay out and cut door G, locating the
centers for the air holes.
4. Punch out the air holes with a
punch.
5. Make the hinge (individual in¬
genuity suggested here).
6. Rivet or solder the hinge to the door
and to the lid.
7. Design and attach a turnbutton or
other locking device.
8. Center the inner bucket on the
under side of the top and solder
the top to the bucket.
9. Cut and shape a bail of #9 or #10
galvanized wire, and attach the
ends to the top by cleats or clips
soldered or riveted to the top (dot¬
ted lines at F).
Final Assembly
1. Cut, punch and shape the ears.
2. Cut and shape the handle and slip
the ears over it.
3. Bend the ends of the handle so that
it will not come out.
4. Solder or rivet the ears to the outer
bucket A.
5. Shape the hasps with their wire
parts fitted to attach to the outer
bucket (see H in the assembly).
Solder the hasps so that they will
hold the top against the bucket, yet
they may be opened easily.
 105

Unit VI

PROBLEMS WITH FRUSTUMS OF CONES

Frustums of cones are the basis of the projects in this
unit. Full use of reference sources is recommended in order
to understand and apply the principles used in the develop¬
ment of cones. It is assumed that such reference sources
are available, therefore the layout details are omitted from
the instructions.
While this book does not include projects involving
triangulation and other advanced techniques, it is hoped
that each pupil is becoming aware of the possibilities and
challenges of sheet metal layout, and that he will be eager
to master still more of this fascinating craft.
A turning machine will be needed for several of the
projects in this unit.
A beading machine may be used on some of the designs,
but is not necessary.
It may be mentioned, for the benefit of any who may
be planning the equipment of a small metalwork shop, that
combination rotary machines are available, which are
usually furnished with four sets of rolls, for thin turning,
thick turning, burring and wiring.
106
Unless a funnel is to receive very hard use, it is better to make it
from rather light metal, 28 or even 30 gauge being recommended.
Materials List
Funnel, D: 1 piece 28 or 30 gauge tin
plate or galvanized iron, approxi¬
mately 4\" x 8i"
Spout, E: 1 piece 28 or 30 gauge tin
Spout, E
plate or galvanized iron, approxi¬
mately 24" x Si"
Wire: 1 piece of #14 galvanized wire,
12f" long
References
Daugherty, Sheet-metal Pattern Draft¬
ing and Shop Problems.
Welch, Elements of Sheet Metal Work.
Procedure
Funnel, D
1. Using the regular procedures (see
references or other informational
sources) lay out the stock, making
the proper allowances for the wired
edge and the grooved seam.
2. Cut the stock to shape.
3. Fold for the grooved seam.
4. Shape the stock over a stake.
Unit VI
Grade I
5. Close and solder the grooved seam.
6. Turn the edge for the wire.
7. Cut and shape the wire and set it
into the edge.
1.Lay out the stock, following in¬
structions in step 1 above, except
that no allowance need be made for
wire.
2. Cut the stock to shape.
3. Fold for the grooved seam.
4. Shape the stock.
5. Close the grooved seam and solder
it.
6. Fit the spout to the funnel. (If
necessary, the end of the funnel
may be stretched slightly, or the
upper end of the spout may be
spread.)
7. Solder the spout to the funnel.
8. If desired, the pupil may design
and attach a loop or other device
for hanging the funnel.
 107

FUNNEL GRADE I
108

MARKING FLOAT Z.'

Make a float of a size to fit your needs, using the table given. The
slant height is the radius to be used for the chosen size.

Materials List slightly (see the drawing).

Cones: 2 pieces 26 to 28 gauge galva¬
nized iron, chosen size
Eyes: 2 heavy-duty screw eyes of the
size desired
References
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
Work.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Procedure
Cones
1.Draw an arc, using the chosen slant
height as a radius.
2. Draw a circle having a diameter
corresponding to the base circle of
the slant height chosen. Divide the
circle into twelve equal parts. Step
off one of these parts twelve times
along the arc drawn in step 1.
3. Draw the outside lines and add the
allowance for the lap.
4. Cut to shape.
5. Form the cones.
6. Solder the laps.
7. Bend the stems of the screw eyes
8. File the tips of the cones, so that
the stems of the screw eyes may
be inserted.
9. Put flux on the inside of the cone
tips and on the stems of the screw
eyes and insert the screw eyes into
the tips of the cones.
10. Seal the tip around the screw eye
by wrapping the area with cotton
twine saturated with candle tallow.
11. Fill the tip of the cone with suf¬
ficient molten solder to cover the
end of the screw stem.
12. Test the cones for leakage.
Assembly
1. Fit the two cones together. Trim
one edge slightly if necessary so
that one cone overlaps the other
not more than
2. Tack-solder the cones together.
3. Complete the soldering of the joint.
4. Test again for leakage.
5. If desired, the joint may be
strengthened by soldering several
straps, as at A, across the joint.
 109

UNIT VI MARKING FLOAT GRADE 2

 no
TABLE LAMP
This lamp stresses functional design, with a minimum of decoration.
Interest and variety may be achieved by painting the base a dead
black and using polished brass, copper or aluminum tubing for the
stem. The top and bottom trim may also be made of a contrasting
metal. A single or double bead may be turned in the base if desired.
Materials List
Base, A: 1 piece 26 to 28 gauge sheet
metal, 6^" x 17|"
1 piece # 10 galvanized wire,
19" long
Cap, B: 1 piece 26 to 28 gauge sheet
metal, 5" in diameter
Trim, C: 2 pieces 28 gauge sheet metal,
2\" in diameter
Tubing, D: 1 piece f" tubing, 8" to 10"
suggested length
Pipe: 1 piece $" pipe, f" longer than the
tubing
Harp: 1 unit as available commercially
Lamp Socket: 1 unit, switch style and
finish as desired, to fit threaded
pipe
References
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Tustison and Kranzusch, Metalwork
Essentials.
Procedure
Base, A
1.Lay out the design, making allow¬
ances for a grooved seam and for
#10 wire. Locate the position for
the hole to receive a rubber bushing.
2. Cut on the cutting lines and punch
out the hole for the bushing.
3. Fold the ends for the grooved seam.
4. Roll to shape in forming machine.
5. Close the grooved seam. (If equip¬
ment is available a countersunk
grooved seam should be made, and
the outside should be soldered even
with the rest of the metal.)
“:
6. Turn the bottom edge for # 10 wire.
7. Cut and fit the wire, and set it
into the edge.
Cap, B
1. Lay out the design as follows: Draw
a circle 4§" in diameter. With the
same center draw a circle of the
same diameter as the tubing to be
used. Draw four evenly spaced
diameters in this circle. With cen¬
ters on the outer circle draw scal¬
lops of radius around the entire
edge.
2. Cut on the cutting lines.
3. Make cuts along the diameters in
the middle circle.
4. Turn down the scallops to fit the
upper edge of the base.
5. Solder the cap to the base.
Tubing, D
1. Cut the tubing to the desired length.
2. File both ends square.
Trim, C
1. Lay out both top and bottom pieces,
using a pattern to assure uniform
petal shape.
2. Punch a f" hole in the top piece.
3. On the bottom piece draw a circle
of the same diameter as the tubing.
Draw four evenly spaced diameters
in the circle. Make cuts along these
diameters.
4. Cut on the cutting lines of both
pieces.
(continued on page 122)
Ill
112

PUPPY FEEDER II:

This feeder will not tip over easily. Careful workmanship is required
to make the pieces fit together, but it can be done.

machine.
Materials List
8. Close and solder the grooved seams.
Container and base: 1 piece 28 gauge tin
9. Turn the lower edge of the base
plate or galvanized
for #14 wire.
iron, 7*" x 17"
10. Cut and form the wire and set it
1 piece #14 galva¬
into the edge.
nized wire, 201"
long Bottom
Bottom: 1 piece 28 gauge tin plate or 1. Lay out and cut a 44" circle.
galvanized iron, 44" in diameter 2. Turn a 4" burr around the edge to
References fit the bottom of the container.
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal 3. Solder the bottom in place.
Work. 4. Fit the container to the base. (The
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork. top edges should just meet if the
work has been done correctly.)
Procedure
Container and Base 5. Turn a burr of about on the
1. Draw a circle 64" in diameter and top of the container, so that its
divide it into twelve equal parts. angle will fit the slope of the top
2. On the stock draw arcs of the radii of the base. (The metal should
shown, all drawn from the same stretch enough that this burr will
center. Draw another arc for the fit the top of the base. If necessary
wire allowance. a very narrow burr may be bent in¬
3. On the arc with the 9£" radius step ward on the upper edge of the
off one of the distances found in base.)
step 1 above, twelve times. At the 6. Solder the base and the container
ends of the arc thus defined draw together. In this instance it is de¬
lines to the center. sirable to build a uniform ring of
4. Lay out the allowances for the solder along the seam. The solder
grooved seams. may then be smoothed to a neat
5. Cut on the solid lines. rim.
6. Fold at the ends for the grooved 7. Polish with steel wool, and enamel
seams. the base (but not the inside of the
7. Shape the parts in the slip-roll container) if desired.
113
114
JUNIOR BRAZIER
This is a simplified, smaller version of the popular outdoor grills.
A desirable feature is that the legs may be made detachable, thus
providing a portable picnic grill.
Materials List
Barrel, B: 1 piece 20 gauge sheet steel,
24" x 38|"
Cone, C: 1 piece 20 gauge sheet steel,
15" in diameter
Bottom, D: 1 piece 20 gauge sheet steel,
7" in diameter
Grill supports, A: 3 pieces fz” steel rod
or #6 wire, 18" long
Grill: 1 piece expanded metal, 14" in
diameter
Legs: 3 pieces electrical conduit, length
as desired, approximately f|" out¬
side diameter
Clips: 3 pieces -fe" x J" x 1" strap iron
rivets; stove bolts; wing nuts
if desired
References
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
Work.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Procedure
Barrel, B
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design, locating the
rivet holes.
3. Cut to shape and punch out the
rivet holes.
4. Fold the hem. (It may be neces¬
sary to do this by hand, since the
metal is too heavy for most shop
bar folders.)
5. Roll to shape, and rivet the lap.
Cone, C
1. Lay out the stock completely, locat¬
ing the notches and the rivet holes.
2. Punch out the rivet holes.
II'!
3. Roll to shape, and rivet the lap.
4. Bend the edge upward to fit the
unhemmed edge of the barrel.
5. Scribe for the positions of the rivet
holes on the barrel.
6. Punch out the rivet holes in the
barrel.
Bottom, D
1. Lay out and cut the stock.
2. Turn a burr on the edge to fit the
bottom of the cone.
3. Locate and punch out rivet holes
in the turned burr.
4. Fit the bottom to the cone and
scribe for the positions of the rivet
holes in the cone.
5. Punch out the rivet holes in the
cone.
6. Rivet the bottom to the cone.
7. Rivet the cone to the barrel.
Grill Supports, A
1. Cut the three supports to length.
2. Bend the ends to shape. (This may
be made easier by bending the ad¬
joining ends of two pieces at the
same time.)
3. Shape the curve.
4. Prepare the clips and bend them
around the ends as shown to hold
the three pieces together securely.
The wire ends should now fit inside
the barrel.
Grill
1. Lay the assembled grill support on
the expanded metal and scribe a
cutting line outside of the wire.
(continued on page 122)
115
 Unit VI

NET FLOAT
Fishing and boating enthusiasts usually find one or more floats to
be a convenience, if not a necessity. The one shown here may be
varied in length to suit individual needs.

Materials List 2. Punch out the rivet holes, and cut

Barrel: 1 piece 26 to 28 gauge galvan- to shape.
ied iron, 13" x the desired length 3. Form the cone.
up to 12" 4. Rivet and solder the lap, coating the
Ends: 2 pieces 26 to 28 gauge galvan¬ rivets.
ized iron, approximately 41" x 7^"
Eyes: 2 pieces of strap iron, yg" x t" Eyes
x 5" 1. Cut the stock to size.
Rivets: 12 oz. tinners’ rivets 2. Locate and drill the rivet holes.
References 3. Shape the eyes so that they will
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal fit the ends.
Work. 4. Rivet the eyes to the ends and sol¬
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork. der the rivets.
Procedure 5. Test both ends for leakage.
Barrel
Assembly
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
1. Turn a burr inward on the
2. Lay out completely, showing the notched edge to fit snugly against
rivet lap and locating the rivet the ends of the barrel. If necessary,
holes. cut several notches less than £"
3. Cut the notches at the lap, and deep in the edges.
punch out the rivet holes.
2. Solder one end to the barrel, and
4. Form the barrel.
test for leakage.
5. Rivet and solder the lap, coating
3. Solder the remaining end to the
the rivets.
barrel, checking carefully for air
Ends holes.
1. Lay out the design completely, 4. Immerse the entire float, keeping
showing the rivet lap, locating the it under water for several hours,
rivet holes, and marking the notches then remove it and check for leak¬
along the edge. age.
 117

£YE5
riAKEL Z

T~
k

UNIT VI NET FLOAT GRADE 3

118

BEDROOM OR TV LAMP
Unit VI

Grade 3

Sometimes a small, adjustable lamp is a convenience, whether for

television or the sickroom. The one shown meets these requirements,
and may be made in a short time. A lamp socket having a rather
long switch key will be needed. A pull chain socket may be used but
is not quite so convenient.

Shade
Materials List
1. Lay out the design completely. The
Base: 1 piece 28 gauge sheet metal,
f" holes are optional, but if they
7f" x 10"
are to be included they must be
Shade: 1 piece same material, 10" x 19f"
located at this time. Do not overlook
End: 1 piece same material, If" in
the j^" x 1" slot for the lamp key.
diameter
2. Punch out the holes and slot.
Mounts: 2 pieces same material, If" x
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
5i"
Spacer: 1 piece same material, f" x 3" 4. Shape the cone and solder the lap.
Bolt: 1 l" x round head stove bolt 5. Turn a f" burr on the upper edge
with a wing nut and close the metal down against
Nipple: 1 nipple to fit the lamp socket, the shade.
f" long End
Bushing: 1 rubber bushing 1. Lay out the design as shown. (Note
Miscellaneous: Lamp socket, lamp cord, that the dotted lines are not a part
plug of the layout, but show how a mount
fits against the end.)
References
2. Punch out the center hole.
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
Work.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork. Mounts
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
Procedure
2. Lay out the design completely,
Base
showing bending lines and cutting
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
lines, and locating the holes.
2. Lay out the design completely, pro¬
3. Punch out the holes.
viding two f" bends at each end,
4. Cut on the cutting lines.
and a f" fold on each side.
5. Bend outward 180° on lines A.
3. Cut on the cutting lines. 6. Bend the hems inward: Drill or
4. Bend downward 90° along both punch i" holes, see sketch.
edges, A. 7. Bend inward 90° on lines B.
5. Make two 90° bends B and C at 8. Bend the rivet laps outward 90°.
each end to form the feet. 9. Fit a mount against the end and
6. Punch a f" hole at the center of the scribe for the rivet holes in the end.
base. 10. Fit the other mount to the base and
7. Solder at the end joints if desired. (continued on page 120)
 119

UNIT VI BEDROOM OR T.V LAMP GRADE3


120
BEDROOM OR TV LAMP /CONI)
scribe for the rivet holes in the
base.
11. Punch out the rivet holes and rivet
the mounts to the end and to the
base.
Spacer
1. Cut a piece of metal f" x 3" and
roll it into a tight roll with a
hole through the center. A drop of
solder may be applied at the outer
end.
Assembly
1. Bend the notched parts on the end
so that they will fit against the in¬
side of the bottom of the shade.
2. Solder the bottom to the shade,
fitting it very carefully, and using
a small-tipped electric copper if
available.
3. Separate the parts of the lamp
socket and screw the nipple into the
end of the socket. Work the nipple
through the holes in the end and in
the mount. Tighten the assembly
with a lock nut screwed on the
I
i
nipple.
4. Separate the lamp cord for about
2j// then draw the ends through
the nipple and attach them to the
binding posts of the socket.
5. Remove the switch key and work
the switch stem through the slot
in the shade. Enlarge the slot if
necessary. Press the socket shell in¬
to place.
6. Fit the upper mount inside the
lower mount.
7. Fit the spacer between the two
strands of lamp cord and between
the sides of the inner mount so that
the hole in the spacer lines up with
those in the mounts.
8. Pass a x 1stove bolt through
the holes and secure it with a wing
nut.
9. The other end of the lamp cord
should be drawn through a rubber
bushing fitted into the hole in the
lower mount and the base. The
plug is then attached in the regular
manner.
 121

A METAL STRIP
SUPPORTS MARS 2 A ROUND A ^ IN ROD.

L BEND LAPS DOWNWARD 90 DEGREES.

\Q\ 1\ K h
Z BEND DOWNWARD 180 Vi*
DEGREES AT A. CLOSE
LAPS OVER STOCK.
'W
3. BEND UPWARD 90 4. BEND RIVET LAPS
DEGREES AT 8 OUTWARD 90°.

UNIT VI BEDROOM OR T.V. LAMP GRADE 3

122
TABLE LAMP fCON'T)
Pipe
1. Cut a piece of i" pipe f" longer
than the tube.
2. Thread about on each end.
Assembly
1. Bend the inner triangular pieces
of the bottom trim so that they fit
snugly against the inside of the
tube, centering the tube on the
trim.
2. Bend the triangular pieces of the
cap center upward and fit them in¬
side the bottom trim and tube.
3. Push the threaded pipe upward
through the cap, trim and tube as¬
sembly.
4. Put a washer and a nut on the lower
end of the pipe and push the pipe
on through the upper end of the
tube.
5. Fit the upper trim over the pipe,
then fit the harp above the trim.
JUNIOR BRAZIER (CONI)
2. Cut the metal to shape and fold the
edges over the supports.
3. Fit the assembly to the barrel.
Legs
1.Cut three pieces of conduit to the
desired length.
2. Flatten one end of each leg for a
distance of 3".
3. Drill holes for rivets or stove
bolts as shown.
4. Spacing the legs 120° apart on the
6. Screw the lamp socket to the end
of the pipe, tightening the set screw
to prevent the pipe from turning.
7. Tighten the nut on the under side
of the cap so that the stem is per¬
pendicular and firm.
8. Bend the petals of the lower trim
upward, and those of the upper
trim downward, shaping them as
desired.
9. If desired, the lamp can now be
disassembled for painting, polish¬
ing or other decoration. One or
more beads may be turned as de¬
sired on the base.
10. When the lamp is reassembled fit
a rubber bushing into the hole
punched in the base. Draw the lamp
cord through this when wiring the
lamp.
barrel, scribe for the holes to cor¬
respond with those in the legs.
5. Punch or drill the holes.
6. If the legs are to be detachable, use
yh" x 1" round head stove bolts with
wing nuts; otherwise rivet with
x r.h. rivets.
If preferred, pockets may be
made into which the ends of the
legs will slide. The pockets are then
riveted to the barrel.
 123

Unit VII

PROBLEMS IN PYRAMID DEVELOPMENT AND REVIEW

This final unit introduces the problem

of the development of a pyramid, which
involves the finding of the true length
of a corner or arris. Reference sources
should be consulted in order that the
principles involved may be understood.
Each project combines some of the
principles and skills learned in the pre¬
vious units, and may serve as a “master¬
piece” through which the pupil can
demonstrate his competency in the areas
touched upon in this book.
* * *

If the series of projects presented

within these covers has resulted in a
better insight into the problems, skills
and opportunities of the sheet metal
worker; if it has given a challenge lead¬
ing to better understanding and in¬
creasing skill; and if it has led to the
completion of some interesting and use¬
ful projects in whose making the pupil
can take pride; then the purpose of
this book has been accomplished.

/
124

vase
Many flowers can be displayed to better advantage in a vase of
this design rather than in the more common round ones. Brass or
copper is very attractive, and may be decorated by hammering or
etching to add interest. Tin plate or galvanized iron should be
enameled or lacquered. Decalcomanias may be used.

Materials List 2. Lay out the design completely.

Vase: 1 piece 28 gauge sheet metal, 7¥'
x 14"
Base: 1 piece 28 gauge sheet metal, same
material as the vase, 3" x 4f"
References
Daugherty, Slieet-metal Pattern Draft¬
ing and Shop Problems.
Johnson and Newkirk, Metal Crafts.
Procedure
Vase
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Bend the hems inward (do not
close them tightly).
5. Bend the sides and ends inward so
that they meet at the corners.
6. Tack the corners with a drop of
solder. (A block of wood with a
V shaped notch cut into it is useful
as a backing block when soldering
the corners.)
Assembly

1. Lay out the design completely, be¬ 1. Mark the position of the vase bot¬
ing especially careful that the tom on the base. Apply flux to the
lengths at the seam are correct. base and the soldering laps.
2. Cut on the cutting lines. 2. Coat the contacting surfaces of the
3. Fold for the grooved seam at each laps and base with solder.
end. 3. Invert the vase over a backing
4. Make 90° bends at each of the block clamped in a vise.
corners. 4. Invert the base and place it accu¬
5. Close and solder the grooved seam. rately on the vase.
6. Bend the soldering laps inward 90° 5. Tack-solder the base in place, ap¬
at the bottom. plying heat and pressure to the
7. Bend the top scallops around a f" under side of the base.
mandrel. 6. Complete the sweat-soldering of
the base to the vase.
Base 7. Test for leakage, and re-solder
1. Cut stock to over-all size. where necessary.
125
CABINET LEG Unit VII

The home workman sometimes wishes to add legs to a cabinet or

bookshelf. It is often simpler to attach a set of metal legs such as
the one in this project, than to modify the design so as to incorporate
legs in the original construction.

Materials List
Leg: 1 piece 26 gauge galvanized iron,
7" x 8|" for each leg
Bottom: 1 piece 26 gauge galvanized
iron, If" x If" for each leg

References
Daugherty, Sheet-metal Pattern Draft¬
ing and Shop Problems.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.

Procedure
Leg
1. Make a layout to determine the true
lengths for the arrises or corners.
2. Lay out the design on the metal
stock. Note that five sides are laid
out, and the inner half of the first
and fifth segments are used. Addi¬
tions for a grooved or locked seam
are allowed, to provide a seam at
the center of the leg instead of at
one edge.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Fold each end for the grooved or
locked seam.
5. Make 90° bends at each of the
corners.
6. Close the grooved seam, and solder
it if desired.
Bottom
1. Lay out the design completely.
2. Cut on the cutting lines.
3. Bend the laps inward nearly 90°
to fit the lower end of the leg.
4. Solder the bottom to the leg.
 127

UNIT VII CABINET LEG GRADE I

128
WATERING CAN
The watering can shown in the drawings is convenient when watering
potted plants. Accurate measurement is necessary in the layout.
Materials List
Sides: 2 pieces 28 gauge galvanized
iron, 5" x 5"
Barrel: 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized
iron, x 15"
Spout: 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized iron,
2\” x 5f"
Handle: 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized
iron, 1£" x 12"
2 pieces #14 galvanized wire,
11" long
Jig: 1 piece mild steel, x 1" x 7"
References
Ludwig, Metalwork Technology and
Practice.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwoy'k.
Procedure
Sides
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out and cut the octagons.
Barrel
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely, in¬
cluding the spout hole.
3. Cut on the cutting lines, including
the hole for the spout.
4. Bend the hems inward at both ends.
5. Bend the soldering laps inward 90°.
6. Bend the segments to fit the sides.
7. Prepare a backing stick of f" wood,
about 1^" wide and 12" long. Saw
one end at a 45° angle. By clamping
this stick in a vise in the required
positions it can be used to back up
ZZ
the soldering laps at each segment.
Solder the barrel to the sides.
Spout
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely.
3. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Prepare the jig for forming the
spout.
5. Form the spout around the jig, with
the side laps overlapping at the top
of the jig.
6. Solder the laps at the top.
7. Bend the laps at the large end of
the spout outward 90°.
8. Fit the spout to the hole in the bar¬
rel and solder it in place.
9. Test the can for leakage; seal any
holes found.
Handle
1. Cut the stock to over-all size.
2. Make folds for #14 wire along both
edges.
3. Cut #14 wires 1" shorter than the
handle. Set the wires into the
handle so that there is between
the ends of the wire and the ends of
the handle.
4. Flatten the wire folds at the ends
of the handle.
5. Shape the handle, having the wired
edges on the outer face of the
handle.
6. Solder the handle to the barrel in
the positions shown.
129
130
WASTE BASKET
This project, while requiring but three pieces of metal and a length
of wire, may well serve as a review for several basic operations.
It makes a useful and attractive piece of equipment. Aluminum may
be used very effectively.
Materials List
Sides: 2 pieces 28 gauge sheet metal,
approximately 12£" x 174"
1 piece #14 to #10 galvanized
wire, 33i" long
Bottom: 1 piece 28 gauge sheet metal,
64" x 104"
References
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
Work.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Procedure
Sides
1. Lay out the rectangular panel at
the center of the stock.
2. With the stock lying on a long flat
surface, project the sides A of the
rectangle downward for about 34".
3. With centers on the projected lines
draw arcs of 32|" and 444" radii.
Also draw arcs for the double seam
allowance on the bottom and the
wire allowance at the top.
“
4. Add allowances for the grooved or
locked seams on each end.
5. Cut on the cutting lines.
6. Fold for grooved seams at the ends.
7. Form the 4 cones at each end.
8. Assemble the two halves, closing
the grooved seams.
9. Turn the upper edge for wire.
10. Cut and fit the wire, and set it
into the edge.
11. Turn a 4" burr on the bottom edge.
Bottom
1. Lay out the design, making allow¬
ance for a double seam.
2. Cut on the cutting lines.
3. Turn a burr along the edge to fit
the burr at the bottom of the sides.
4. Fit the bottom to the sides and com¬
plete the double seam.
5. Solder the seam if desired.
6. Enamel or otherwise decorate the
wastebasket to suit.
 131

a 1.^1
^ * ,

MAKE. /
i
' l
1

v
//

ALLOWANCES FOR
SEAM £ WIRE

UNIT VII WASTE BASKET GRADE 2

132

BIRD BATH II™

An all-metal bird bath has several advantages. It is inexpensive;
may be moved easily, either for lawn care or for winter storage;
and can usually be repaired in case of damage.

Materials List Bowl Sides, B

Bowl rim, A: 1 piece 26 gauge galva¬ 1. Lay out the design, making a 1"
nized iron, If" x 51f" or f" allowance at the outer edge
1 piece #9 or #10 gal¬ for a burr and allowing for a
vanized wire, 50f" long grooved seam.
Boivl sides, B: 1 piece 26 gauge galva¬ 2. Cut on the cutting lines.
nized iron, 18" in diameter 3. Fold for the grooved seam.
Bowl bottom, C: 1 piece 26 gauge galva¬ 4. Form the cone and close the seam.
nized iron, 61" in diameter 5. Solder the seam.
Column, D: 1 piece 26 gauge galvanized 6. Turn a burr on the upper edge to
iron, 211" x 221" fit the bowl rim. If necessary,
Base rim, G: 1 piece 26 gauge galvanized notch to make a smooth lap.
iron, If" x 33ff" 7. Solder the sides to the rim.
Base sides, F: 1 piece 26 gauge galva¬ Bo w I Bottom
nized iron, 131" in diameter 1. Draw the circle, C, adding f" radius
Base top, E : 1 piece 26 gauge galvanized for the burr.
iron, 8" in diameter 2. Cut on the cutting line.
Base wire: 1 piece #9 or #10 galva¬ 3. Turn a burr to fit the bottom of
nized wire, 33f" long the bowl sides.
4. Solder the bottom to the sides.
References
5. Test the bowl for leakage, mending
Daugherty, Sheet-metal Pattern Draft¬
any leak.
ing and Shop Problems.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork. Base Rim, G
1. Cut stock to over-all size.
Procedure 2. Lay out the design, including allow¬
Bowl Rim, A ances for a grooved seam and for
1. Cut stock to over-all size. a wired edge.
2. Lay out the design, including allow¬ 3. Cut on the cutting lines.
ances for a grooved seam and for 4. Fold for a wired edge.
a wired edge. 5. Fold the ends for a grooved seam.
3. Cut on the cutting lines. 6. Cut the wire to length and set it
4. Fold for a wired edge. into the rim.
5. Fold the ends for a grooved seam. 7. Form the rim in the forming
6. Cut the wire to length and set it machine.
into the rim. 8. Close the grooved seam and set the
7. Form rim in forming machine. wire end.
8. Close the seam and set the wire end. 9. Solder the seam.
9. Solder the seam. (continued on page 1^1)
133
134

scoop ::::
This scoop may be made with 26 gauge metal except for the handle
parts, for which 28 gauge stock is recommended.

Materials List 5. Close and solder the grooved seam.

Barrel, A: 1 piece 26 gauge galvanized
iron, 6" x 13f"
Cone, B: 1 piece 26 gauge galvanized
iron, 5|" in diameter
End, C: 1 piece 26 gauge galvanized
iron, 2ff" in diameter
Handle, D: 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized
iron, 44" x 44"
Cap, F: 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized
iron, 1£" in diameter
Brace, E: 1 piece 28 gauge galvanized
iron, 14" x 2"
References
Daugherty, Sheet-metal Pattern Draft¬
ing and Shop Problems.
Welch, Elements of Sheet Metal Work.
Procedure
Barrel, A
1. Lay out the design completely, add¬
ing stock at each end for a grooved
seam.
2. Cut the stock to shape.
3. Fold the ends for the grooved seam.
4. Form the barrel, close and solder
the grooved seam.
6. Turn a k" burr at the edge to fit
the barrel. Notch the burr if neces¬
sary to produce a smooth lap.
End,C
1. Draw the circles, and cut the stock
to shape.
2. Turn a k" burr on the edge, to fit
the smaller end of the cone.
3. Solder the end to the cone.
4. Solder the cone to the barrel.
Handle, D
1. Lay out the design completely, add¬
ing stock at each side for a grooved
seam.
2. Cut on the cutting lines.
3. Fold the ends for the grooved seam.
4. Form the handle; close and solder
the grooved seam.
5. Cut the cap F to shape and hammer
it to make it slightly convex.
6. Solder the cap to the end of the
handle.
7. Center the handle on the end of the
scoop and solder it securely to the
scoop.

Cone, B
1. Lay out the design completely, add¬
ing stock at each end for a grooved
seam.
2. Cut the stock to shape.
3. Fold the ends for the grooved seam.
4. Form the cone.
Brace, E
1. Lay out the design on \" squares.
2. Cut the stock to shape.
3. Shape to fit the scoop and the
handle.
4. Solder the brace to the handle
and scoop.
 135

II 1 1 1
1
'N
1
1
''J' /©I
-tr Kjj,.
136

PIONEERS' LANTERN II’!

In the desire to include in this series of projects something of un¬
usual interest, the Pioneers’ Lantern is submitted. A lantern made
from the drawings given will be a replica of one in the museum of the
Kansas State Historical Society at Topeka. The original lantern
bears evidence of long and hard usage, and one may easily imagine
some of the events, both prosaic and thrilling, in which it may have
had a vital and illuminating part. The Curator’s data on the lantern
state that it was brought to Leavenworth County, Kansas, some¬
time in the 1850’s.
As a conversation piece; as an item for the collector of early
Americana; as a useful and decorative item for the rumpus room,
the den or the summer cottage; and as a tribute to the skill of the
tinkers and artisans of Great-grandfather’s day, it is here presented.
The drawings are made available through the courtesy of the Kansas
State Historical Society and the curator of its museum, Mr. Stanley
D. Sohl, who graciously permitted an examination of the lantern
and the publishing of the drawings made from it.
The original lamp had no protective or decorative finish. This replica
will look more authentic when it acquires a degree of weathering.

Materials List Deflector: 1 piece 28 or 30 gauge tin

Bottom: 1 piece 28 or 30 gauge tin plate,
5f" x 5f"
(NOTE: “tin” cans are quite
satisfactory for the tin plate
required)
Hood: 1 piece 28 or 30 gauge tin plate,
6!" x 10"
Back posts: 2 pieces 28 or 30 gauge tin
plate, If" x 8"
Front posts: 2 pieces 28 or 30 gauge tin
plate, 1TV' x 8"
Top guards: 4 pieces 28 or 30 gauge tin
plate, §" x 4"
Door stiles: 2 pieces 28 or 30 gauge tin
plate, lyg" x 8"
Top rail: 1 piece 28 or 30 gauge tin plate,
8 x
Bottom rail: 1 piece 28 or 30 gauge tin
plate, f " x 3i"
Handle: 1 piece 28 or 30 gauge tin plate,
1" x 14f"
plate, If" in diameter
Hanger: 1 piece 28 or 30 gauge tin plate,
f" x 34"
Wire: 80" #12 or #14 galvanized wire
References
Bollinger, A Course in Sheet Metal
Work.
Smith, Robert E., Sheet Metalwork.
Procedure
Bottom
1. Cut the stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely.
3. Punch out the air holes along the
bottom edge.
4. Bend pockets along the 4 sides for
the glass (see the perspective
drawing).
5. Bend upward 90° along the bottom
edges.
(continued on page 138)
 137

UNIT VII PIONEERS’ LANTERN GRADE 4

 138
PIONEERS' LANTERN /CONIJ
Hood
1. Lay out the design completely.
2. Cut on the cutting lines.
3. Cut a pattern for the star and tri¬
angle design, making the triangles
about yz” on each side.
4. Trace the design on each of the 4
sides of the hood.
5. Make a punch from a triangular
file, and punch out the triangles.
6. The stars are made by punching
out the five points with the same
punch.
7. Fold the ends for a flush corner
seam.
8. Bend on the edges to form a pyra¬
mid.
9. Close the corner seam.
10. Bend the bottom laps inward so
that the ends meet.
Back Posts
1. Cut the stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines, and locating the holes for the
wire guards.
3. Punch out the holes.
4. Cut on the cutting lines.
5. Bend the edges to form pockets for
the glass.
6. Bend inward 90° along the center
lines.
Front Posts
1. Cut the stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines, and locating the holes for
the wire guards, make one right,
one left.
3. Punch out the holes.
4. Bend the sides the same as the back
posts to form pockets for the glass;
bend the fronts to form a door
guide; bend 90° along the center.
Candle Cup
1. Cut a strip 1" wide and long enough
to make a cylinder for the size
candle to be used.
2. Form into a cylinder; solder the
lap.
3. Center on the bottom and solder
it to the bottom.
Assembly
1. Solder the ends of the posts to the
bottom and to the hood.
Top Guards
1.Cut four pieces of stock, f" x 4";
hem the edges i".
2. Bend both ends inward about
3. Solder guards at the top of the
sides and back.
Wire Guard
1. Cut and shape wire guards to fit
the sides and back, making them
| of a circle.
2. Work the wires through the holes
in the posts.
3. Secure the wires with a drop of
solder at the ends of each wire.
Door Stiles
1. Cut the stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design completely,
showing bending lines and cutting
lines, and locating the holes for
the wire guards, make one right,
one left.
3. Punch out the wire holes.
4. Bend the inner edges to form
pockets for the glass; bend the
outer edges to slide upon the door
guide on the front posts.
Door Rail
1. Cut the stock to over-all size.
2. Lay out the design.
3. Bend the lower rail to form a
pocket for the glass.
(continued on page 14.0)
 139

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UNIT VII PIONEERS’ LANTERN GRADE 4

140
PIONEERS' LANTERN /CON'T)
4. Fold j-j" hems on both edges of the
upper rail.
5. Solder the rails to the stiles.
6. Fit the door to the front post guide,
adjusting as necessary.
7. Solder the fourth top guard to the
top of the door.
8. Measure, cut and shape the wire
guards.
9. Work the guards into the holes, and
secure them with a drop of solder.
Handle Assembly
1. Cut the handle to dimensions.
2. Make hems on both edges.
3. Punch out holes from each end
for wire.
4. Form into a cylinder.
5. Cut the hanger to size; round the
ends.
6. Punch out a hole for wire at the
center, also one at each end.
7. Form to fit the hood, locate holes
for the wire on the hood and punch
them out.
8. Cut the deflector to shape; hammer
it slightly to make it concave, and
punch a wire hole at the center.
9. Cut two wires, 2|" long; twist a
loop in the end of one wire.
10. Wrap the end of the other wire
about two turns around the first
wire; withdraw the first wire.
11. Pass the second wire through the
center hole in the hanger and ex¬
tend the other end into the top of
the hood.
12. Pass the first wire through the
holes in one side of the hanger
and hood, then through the loop in
the second wire, then out through
the holes in the hood and hanger
on the other side. Twist a loop in
the other end of the first wire.
13. Pass the end of the second wire
through the hole in the deflector
and the holes near the ends of the
handle. Twist a loop in the other
end of the wire.
14. Cut single strength glass to fit the
door and the sides of the lantern
and put them in place.
 141

BIRD BATH /CON'T)

Base Sides, F 6. Solder the top to the base.
1. Lay out the design, making a 7. Bend the rivet tabs outward.
or §" allowance at the outer edge Column, D
for a burr, and allowing for a 1. Lay out the design completely, add¬
grooved seam. ing allowances for the grooved
2. Cut on the cutting lines. seam and for a burr at the top.
3. Fold the ends for the grooved seam. 2. Cut on the cutting lines.
4. Form the cone and close the grooved 3. Fold for the grooved seam.
seam. 4. Form in the forming machine.
5. Solder the seam. 5. Close the grooved seam.
6. Turn a burr on the lower edge to 6. Solder the seam.
fit the base rim. If necessary, 7. Turn a burr at the upper end.
notch the burr to make a smooth 8. Fit the lower end over the rivet
lap. tabs in the base, locate and punch
7. Solder the sides to the rim. out the rivet holes, and rivet the
column to the base.
Base Top, E 9. Solder along the joint between the
1. Lay out the design, adding or column and base.
to the outer radius given, for 10. Invert the bowl; also invert the
a burr. Note the rivet tabs. Locate base and column assembly; and
centers for rivet holes in the tabs. center the top of the column on the
2. Cut on the outer circle. bottom of the bowl.
3. Punch out the rivet holes. 11. Solder the column to the bowl.
4. Cut on the three solid lines for 12. Prepare the surface for enameling
each tab. or other method of coating.
5. Turn a burr on the edge to fit the 13. Apply a finish suitable for outdoor
top of the base sides. use.
 —*

ECHANIS

FRONT. FORMING DIF

BLANKI
DIES

STOCK
REAR FOR
«p»
wt:

Small Parts Manufacture

This multislide press (1) is used to make a
variety of small parts. The lower inset (1) shows
FRONT D»
the support bracket for the overload snap spring in
a magnetic motor control unit. It is made of .060"
Stempen cold rolled steel.
In (2) the strip is being fed through the blanking
dies, where unwanted metal is punched out, and rivet
bosses are stamped. The upper inset in (1) shows the
sequence of blanking operations. In (3) the forming
7* *%, dies are just starting to close; in (4) they are about
one-half closed; and (5) shows them completely
mm closed on the piece.
This four-slide press is cam operated, operates
with a pressure of 32 tons and is capable of forming
material .125" thick, with a maximum width of 31".
To operate properly, the support bracket being made
must be held to an over-all tolerance of .003" — but
across the pivot points, the maximum error in manu¬
facture is .001".
Photos by General Electric's General Purpose
Control Department
REFERENCE LIST
Barich, Dewey F., and Smith, Leonard C. Metal
Work for Industrial Arts Shops. Chicago, Illi¬
nois : American Technical Society, 1952.
Bollinger, J. W. A Course in Sheet Metal Work.
Milwaukee, Wisconsin: The Bruce Publishing
Company.
Broemel, L., and Daugherty, J. S. Sheet Metal
Workers’ Manual. Chicago, Illinois: Frederick
J. Drake and Company, 1942.
Daugherty, James S. Sheet-metal Pattern Drafting
and Shop Problems. Peoria, Illinois: The Chas.
A. Bennett Co., Inc.
Grayshon, Alfred B. General Metal Work. Princeton,
N. J.: D. Van Nostrand Company, Inc., 3rd
Edition, 1956.
Johnson, Wm. H., and Newkirk, Louis V. The Metal
Crafts. New York, N. Y.: The Macmillan Com¬
pany, 1942.
Ludwig, Oswald A. Metalicork Technology and
Practice. Bloomington, Illinois: McKnight &
McKnight Publishing Company, 4th Edition,
1955.
Smith, Robert E. Sheet Metalwork. Bloomington,
Illinois: McKnight & McKnight Publishing
Company, 2nd Edition, 1952.
Tustison, F. E., and Kranzusch, Ray F. Metalwork
Essentials. Milwaukee, Wisconsin: The Bruce
Publishing Company, 2nd Edition, 1955.
Welch, R. L. Elements of Sheet Metal Work. Milwau¬
kee, Wisconsin: The Bruce Publishing Com¬
pany.
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