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THE
HEIGHT
OF
FASHION This season,
elevate your style
with the hottest
collabs and
boldest looks.

COU RTE SY OF THE DESIGNE R.

C O U T U R E S TA N D O U T

Giambattista Valli’s
Magnum Opus
Given the hours and expertise that go into creating
an haute couture garment, it’s a shame so few
people get to see one in person. Giambattista
Valli, who sneaked into Alta Moda shows as a child,
decided to buck tradition this season, taking over a
Paris gallery space where tout le monde could take
their time marveling at his fantastical creations.
Now Trending
THE
ARCHITECTURAL
IT BAG

Max Mara
x Whitney
Museum of
American Art
To mark the fifth anniversary of
New York’s new Whitney Museum
of American Art, Max Mara has
teamed up with Renzo Piano
Building Workshop for a special
edition of the brand’s Whitney
Bag, available in five new colors
(plus one coordinating scarf;
Poppy bag not shown). The
palette was inspired by Florine
Stettheimer’s 1931 work Sun,
which hangs in the museum’s
permanent collection. (Special-
edition handbags, Max Mara by
Renzo Piano Building Workshop,
$1,220 each, Max Mara, NYC)

T H E TA B L E S E T T I N G

Dior x Judy Chicago


Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri continued to carry the torch
for fashion-loving feminists everywhere by enlisting
legendary artist Judy Chicago to not only design the set
for the house’s spring couture show (complete with hand-
embroidered banners) but also create a limited-edition
collection of Limoges china, which will be sold exclusively
at two of Dior’s Paris boutiques. (Limited-edition Goddess
plate, Judy Chicago, $900 for a set of four, Dior, Paris)

T H E N E W U G LY - C O O L S H O E
COU RTE SY OF THE DE SIGNE RS.

Suicoke x Alanui
Wacky sandal–mania is far from over, thanks to Japanese
brand Suicoke. After creating a frenzy with its last
partnership, a floral glass-beaded affair with designer
Cecilie Bahnsen, the brand has linked up with Milan-based
knitwear label Alanui on a range of fringed pony-hair mules
that pair perfectly with the brand’s Southwestern-style
cardigans. (Mules, Suicoke x Alanui, $455, mytheresa.com)

32
KENDALL JENNER

NEW ROSEAU BAG. READY-TO-WEAR BY LONGCHAMP.


Editor’s Letter
ECO-WARRIORS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT, ON MADELAINE PETSCH:
DRESS, CHRISTOPHER KANE. TIGHTS, FALKE, $46.
BOOTS, THE WAY WE WORE, L.A. ON JANE FONDA:
JACKET, $3,590, TROUSERS, $990, ALEXANDER
MCQUEEN. BODYSUIT, FALKE, $180. EARRINGS, $3,400,
RINGS, FROM $900, TIFFANY & CO. ON GRIMES:
DRESS, VINTAGE NORMA KAMALI BY SHOP MORPHEW.
RINGS, TIFFANY & CO., FROM $1,800. ON ROSARIO
DAWSON: JUMPSUIT, BOTTEGA VENETA, $3,820.
BLOUSE, VERSACE, $850. EARRINGS, $975, RING,
$875, TIFFANY & CO. BOOTS, BALENCIAGA, $1,590.

the tragic fires that have ravaged Australia


and the global rise of climate refugees, we
are all more aware than ever that we need
to join the movement. For this portfolio, we
drew on the talents of photographer Alexi
Lubomirski, who famously strives for a
minimal carbon footprint on all his shoots—
and is encouraging others to join him, via his
initiative Creatives4Change.
Our cover star this month is the cheeky
Game of Thrones vet Sophie Turner. In a
refreshingly candid interview with award-
winning journalist Mike Sager on page 150,
the artist formerly known as Sansa Stark
dishes on “punching above [her] league”
with new husband Joe Jonas, her friendship
with the J Sisters, and moving on after
nearly a decade on Game of Thrones with
her new series, Survive. (No, she didn’t
watch the last episode of GoT, she confides!)
Elsewhere in this issue, Greta Thunberg
shares an excerpt from her newly translated
book Our House Is on Fire—in the form of a
stirring letter addressed to all of us. Fash-
ion critic Christina Binkley reports on how
the industry is trying to reduce its carbon
footprint. And Adrienne Gaffney embeds
with the activists driving Extinction Rebel-
lion, a radical climate group that formed in
the UK but is quickly finding a global audi-
ence—and also drawing controversy for its
extreme methods, like supergluing them-
selves to buildings. As they see it, the ends
justify the means. Founding member Clare
Farrell says, “I don’t think you can begin to
deal with something this bad if you continue
A LEXI LU BOMIRSK I; FOR D ETA ILS, SEE S HOP PI NG GUI DE .

to pretend that it’s less bad than it is.”


f Jane Fonda can’t motivate you, no one can. With her If we don’t take action, we might face a future kind of like the

I stirring Fire Drill Fridays protests in Washington, DC,


the legendary actress has brought much-needed attention
to the climate crisis. “When you’re famous, you have this
one National Book Award–winning novelist Joyce Carol Oates
imagines in an original piece of “eco-fiction” commissioned
for the magazine. Let’s make sure it remains fiction, not reality.
incredible potential platform, but how do you use it?” Fonda says
she asked herself recently. And then the answer came to her: “I
have to put myself on the line.”
For our second annual Conservation issue, we tapped
Fonda and fellow activists to share their inspiring stories in
honor of the fiftieth anniversary of Earth Day (page 127).
ELLE has an ongoing commitment to covering all things
green, and 30 of our international editions are marking this
milestone month with sustainability-themed issues. Seeing @NINAGARCIA NINAGARCIA @NINAGARCIAOFFICIAL
A P R I L
NO.416
V O L U M E X X X V N U M B E R 8

JACKET, $1,590, TROUSERS,


SANDALS, JW ANDERSON.

28 NOW TRENDING 69 GLOBAL GOOD world for this season’s 106 GROUP CHAT: 124 DIRECTOR’S
How Net-a-Porter found- standout pieces. By SAFER STRANDS SPOTLIGHT:
34 EDITOR’S LETTER Experts sound off on EMERALD FENNELL
ing investor Carmen Naomi Rougeau
Busquets is using her their favorite nontoxic Julie Kosin speaks with
44 THE FEED
name to reduce waste 80 STRAW POLL dyes and straighteners. the Promising Young
52 NINA’S EDIT and empower activists Everything’s By Nykia Spradley Woman director
coming up raffia
56 NEW ARRIVALS 70 NEW FOUND GLORY 108 HUDA BARES IT ALL 125 CULTURE NEWS
Three new treasures The upcycled lines rede- The famed makeup artist The latest to read,
straight from the garden
Shops strips down (her face). watch, and stream
fining environmental chic
83 THE ELEMENTS By Margaux Anbouba
Front Row Accessories OF STYLE The Well
Go back to basics with Culture
73 SPARKLE PLENTY looks inspired by earth, 127 FORCES OF NATURE
60 THE STATE OF
SUSTAINABLE FASHION Ethically mined diamonds water, fire, and air 111 FASHIONING Jane Fonda, Rosario
COLE SPROUSE; FOR DETAILS, SEE SHOPPING GUIDE.

On how far we’ve give a Tiffany & Co. CHANGE Dawson, Madelaine
come and how far staple a fresh shine Beauty A letter from Greta, Petsch, and Grimes are
we have left to go. a promising new the change we want
74 THIS BUD’S FOR YOU 91 NATURAL SELECTION technique for minimizing to see in the world.
By Christina Binkley
Florals reach new Ning Chao and Margaux wildfires, and the climate Photographed by Alexi
62 GOING OFF THE GRID heights this spring Anbouba on the best activist group redefining Lubomirski. Styled
Influencers are rewriting in sustainable beauty protest culture by Arianne Phillips
75 INSTANT REPLAY
the script to take a more
The new settings 102 ELLEWORD: 118 MY CARBON- 136 SHIFTING SANDS
eco-friendly approach. FREE LIFE
granting gems a second VICTORIA BECKHAM Sustainable fashion
Allie Volpe reports The fashion and beauty Alex Kuczynski
life. By Naomi Rougeau stands in stark relief
66 WHAT CAN mogul plays a round of gives her lifestyle a to an otherworldly
FASHION LEARN 76 THAT’S A STRETCH sustainable makeover
word association. Death Valley backdrop.
FROM PATAGONIA? Bungee cords reign By Kate Foster
supreme on shoes, 120 MARTHE: Photographed by
Véronique Hyland
bags, and jewels 104 THE DIRTY TRUTH A REFERENDUM Cole Sprouse. Styled
takes a look at the
Martha McCully Joyce Carol Oates paints by Natasha Royt
brand that went green 78 THE CRAFT
before it was cool reports on the fight a frightening view of the
Designers teamed with for clean beauty future in an original work
artisans from around the
A P R I L
NO.416
V O L U M E X X X V N U M B E R 8

150 SOPHIE TURNER


IS NOT A D%#K
On the eve of her first
role since GoT, Sophie
Turner fills Mike Sager
in on life outside the
castle. Photographed
by Arthur Elgort. Styled
by Beth Fenton
156 WHERE THE
SIDEWALK ENDS
Monotone ensembles
up the impact.
Photographed by
Matthew Kristall. Styled
by Rebecca Dennett

End Notes
170 ECO-CONSCIOUS
TRAVEL
By Sarah Rowland
173 SHOPPING GUIDE
174 HOROSCOPE

The Cover
Looks
SOPHIE TURNER
Turner wears a dress
from Louis Vuitton.
Photographed by Arthur
Elgort (styled by Beth
Fenton; hair by Christian
Wood and makeup by
Lisa Storey, both at the
Wall Group; manicure
by Millie Machado at
Tracey Mattingly).

JANE FONDA
Fonda wears a jacket
and pants from
Alexander McQueen, a
bodysuit from Falke,
and earrings and rings
from Tiffany & Co. For
Fonda’s makeup look,
try Age Perfect Makeup
Satin Glide Eyeliner
with Mineral Pigments
in Black, Colour Riche
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QUENT IN JO NES (ST YLE D BY SOP HI E BER ESIN ER ).

Satin Lipstick with


Precious Oils in Glowing
Nude. All, L’Oréal Paris.
Photographed by Alexi
Lubomirski (styled by
Arianne Phillips; hair by
Jonathan Hanousek for
L’Oréal Paris; makeup
by David DeLeon
at A. Spiegelman
Management; manicure
by Alex Jachno for Tom
Ford Beauty; set design
by Jack Flanagan at the
Wall Group; produced
by Nathalie Akiya at
Kranky Produktions).
and related James Bond Trademarks are trademarks of Danjaq. All Rights Reserved.
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44
NINA GARCIA
Editor-in-Chief

STEPHEN GAN
Creative Director

MARTIN HOOPS AMY SYNNOTT ERIN HOBDAY


Executive Design Director Executive Editor Executive Managing Editor

ALIX CAMPBELL KAYLA WEBLEY ADLER JENNIFER WEISEL ALEXIS WOLFE


Chief Visual Content Director, Deputy Editor Entertainment Director Accessories Director
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FASHION
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Market Editors STEPHANIE SANCHEZ, JADE VALLARIO
Assistants ROSIE JARMAN, KEVIN LEBLANC

FEATURES
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BEAUTY
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ART AND DESIGN


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Designer JULIANNA DANIELSON
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HEARST VISUAL GROUP


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THE TOTE
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Dior replanted all the trees used in its spring 2020


enchanted forest–themed show. For your own
horticultural pursuits, try the house’s logo gardening bag.
Tote, Dior, $3,600 (tools not included), call 800-929-DIOR.
56
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59
THE STATE OF
SUSTAINABLE
FASHION
Grand gestures aren’t enough. Designers are taking
steps to fight industry waste—but real change will
require all of us to shift our collective mind-set.
By Christina Binkley
ast year, the Swedish Fashion Council made an un- a concept for a suit that could be worn three different ways to

L precedented move while planning the annual Stock-


holm Fashion Week: They canceled the event entirely,
citing concerns about its environmental impact. Not
reduce the need for her clients’ frequent wardrobe changes. It’s
now boast-worthy to participate in sharing-economy and reuse
enterprises such as Rent the Runway and The RealReal, which
everyone in fashion is taking such drastic measures, posts the gallons of water offset by each customer’s purchase.
of course, but it spoke to the urgent need for action on the issue, It’s heartening, but none of this nears the tidal wave of ac-
one that designers and customers alike are now recognizing. tion required of the industry and the consumers who support
Fashion is responsible for around 10 percent of the world’s it. It may take real discomfort to make the changes necessary in
carbon emissions and nearly 20 percent of the world’s water time to avert planetary disaster. And discomfort—unless we’re
waste, according to several United Nations groups. An esti- talking stiletto heels—is rarely embraced by the ease-obsessed
mated 85 percent of the world’s textiles end up in landfills or fashion industry.
incinerated. Fast fashion no doubt con- We can all do our part by buying
tributes mightily to this waste, but it is by RAVE REVIEW fewer, better clothes. Maria Cornejo,
no means alone. designer of Zero + Maria Cornejo, has
At the G7 summit in August, 32 major been manufacturing in New York and re-
fashion companies, including Kering, using dead-stock and sustainably made
Chanel, and Inditex (the parent company materials for years, but her real goal, she
of Zara), committed to a host of environ- says, is to make clothes that people will
mental initiatives, agreeing to eliminate want to wear for decades. “Make good
single-use plastics by 2030 and to seek heirlooms,” she argues. “Nobody buys
out more sustainable sources of raw ma- anything because it’s sustainable. First,
terials. Gabriela Hearst made headlines it has to be desirable.” That thought is
when she offset the carbon footprint of echoed by Erin Lowenberg, creative di-
her spring 2020 fashion show in New rector of Rothy’s, a footwear company
York by limiting transportation energy that launched in 2016 with two styles
costs, booking local models, minimizing “NOBODY BUYS of flats knit from recycled water bottles
packaging and energy use, and reducing ANYTHING BECAUSE IT’S (Meghan Markle is a fan). Its initial cus-
waste. And after Nordstrom created a SUSTAINABLE. FIRST, IT tomers may have been more interested in
mechanism for its customers to shop HAS TO BE DESIRABLE.” the look and feel of the shoes than their
online for “sustainable style,” customer —MARIA CORNEJO impact on a waste- and leather-intensive
searches for that category rose by 3,100 industry, but the brand’s environmental
percent in 2019. cred has surely contributed to its explo-
So has the fashion industry finally sive growth (its customer base increased
shifted from lip-service sustainability 105 percent from 2018 to 2019, surpass-
COLL AGE: DJUN O TOMSNI. RAVE R EVIEW: MICHAE L CAMPAN EL L A/ GE T T Y I MAG ES; Z ERO + MARI A C ORNEJ O: I MA XT R EE.

to impactful action? Certainly, many are ing 1.4 million). It introduced its newest
making changes, simultaneously forced category in March: handbags made from
and incentivized to do better by socio- a blend of ocean-bound marine plastic
economic forces, from stricter recycling and recycled water bottles.
laws to the galvanizing activism of so Solutions must be more than just
many young people. In 2019, Kering— green, which is why Stephanie Bene-
owner of Gucci, Balenciaga, Saint Lau- detto talks up financial and inventory-
rent, and other luxury brands—pledged management benefits as she makes the
to offset its greenhouse gases by purchas- case for Queen of Raw, a technology plat-
ing carbon credits and to commit to full form she cofounded in 2018 to connect
carbon neutrality across the company. people and brands with leftover fabrics—
LVMH and Burberry are doing the same. an estimated 15 percent of every produc-
Writing checks won’t make the fashion tion run. Queen of Raw caters to home
giants truly sustainable, but it is a potent sewers as well as big fashion companies,
and promising gesture from the indus- ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO and Benedetto estimates that dead-stock
try’s leaders. textiles could become a $120 billion busi-
One shudders to think of the carbon footprint of red-carpet ness. “It’s insane, the volume that is out there,” says Benedetto,
fashions that are jetted across the world and worn once, if at who has listed fabrics up to a million yards long, or as short as a
all. But some stars are shaking up the status quo. Joaquin Phoe- few yards, for a base of over 130,000 clients. “Never doubt you
nix showed up at January’s Golden Globes in an impeccable can change the world,” she says. “We will.”
Stella McCartney tuxedo he promised to rewear throughout Young brands such as Reformation are finding fans who are
awards season. Easier done with a suit than a gown, but the equally drawn to their designs and their sustainable efforts. Ref-
dis to fashion’s wear-it-once ethos was on point. Hollywood ormation operates on the borderline of fast fashion, but it offers
stylist Jeanne Yang says several of her clients have requested public tours of its Los Angeles factory to prove the bona fides
sustainable options for their red-carpet appearances. At his of its fairly treated workforce and posts photos to its Instagram
Aquaman premiere, her client Jason Momoa donned a vintage account of suppliers such as Filpucci, a Tuscan mill that recycles
Tom Ford–era Gucci robe that Yang found on The RealReal. (He cashmere into new yarn.
slipped it off to dance the haka.) “I try as much as possible not to It’s doubtful Greta Thunberg intended to become a fashion
use fast fashion, even for my kids,” says Yang, who is cooking up muse, but she has inspired everything CONTINUED ON PAGE 172

61
Front Row
LEANDRA REESE
M. COHEN BLUTSTEIN

BIANCA
VALLE

MONIKH ALLEGRA
DALE SHAW

GOING OFF
the Grid
The influencer economy
moves at lightning
speed—but in the
name of sustainability,
some of its stars are
pumping the brakes.
By Allie Volpe

llegra Shaw remembers a time, three or four years that they don’t need an endless supply of clothes or money to

A ago, when packages from brands—clothes and beau-


ty products sent in the hope that Shaw, a YouTuber
with nearly a million followers, would dedicate a
have style. The idea that you always need to have new items of
clothing is just not realistic for most people, and not sustain-
able.” Leandra M. Cohen, founder of Man Repeller, grappled
video to them—came equipped with confetti explosions and with how ethical consumerism is hardly black-and-white in an
television screens. “When you get a TV in a package, how do you essay on her site: “I don’t think consumption has to be so dirty if
dispose of it?” Shaw says. As conversations around the climate we’re more thoughtful about it and hold ourselves accountable
crisis and ethical consumerism reach critical mass, she is one for making! smarter! choices!” she wrote, advocating for more
of many influencers rethinking a system that requires them to mindful shopping and urging readers to ask themselves if a piece
wear, share, and promote the latest trends at a breakneck pace. will elevate their wardrobe or if it will make getting dressed in
Fashion is a notoriously wasteful industry: Nearly 9,000 tons the morning easier.
of solid waste generated from the production of clothing and Knowing that certain brands are taking strides to minimize
SHAW: MA RGA RITA MEN ARD ; DA LE: DAVID M. B ENET T/ GET T Y I MAG ES.
footwear was sent to landfills in 2017, according to the EPA. Still, waste and carbon emissions, New York City–based holistic
NA ND EZ/ BFA; B LUTST EIN : ED WA RD BERTHE LOT/G ET T Y I MAGES;

attitudes are changing. Burberry and Gabriela Hearst produced nutritionist and artist Bianca Valle, who has partnered with
COHEN : C HR ISTI AN VIE RIG/GET T Y IMAGE S; VA LLE: SAMAN THA

carbon-neutral spring 2020 shows, while Gucci announced last Outdoor Voices and Nike—brands that have made public prom-
fall that it is carbon-neutral across all its operations. Luxury ises to limit their environmental impact—uses her platform to
giants LVMH and Kering have unveiled detailed sustainability promote labels that are making an effort. “Are they [all] 100
plans. Meanwhile, some shoppers have begun to turn away from percent sustainable?” the 25-year-old says. “Maybe not. Are
fast fashion—which caused clothing production to nearly dou- they working hard to figure it out? Probably. It’s this notion of
ble over the past 15 years—and toward resale or eco-conscious not condemning anything or anyone, because I think, as a whole,
labels like Reformation and Everlane. we know there’s an issue, so people are taking steps.”
Because the nature of the influencer economy is inherently Monikh Dale, an influencer and stylist who lives in London,
unsustainable—influencers’ livelihoods depend on promoting says that since turning 30, “I’m a lot more wary of what I buy.”
what’s next and newest, encouraging followers to consume She uses the eco-conscious movement as an opportunity to ease
right along with them—sustainability arguably goes against the tension between aspiration and sustainability, encouraging
the job description. But while some influencers race to keep up her followers to invest in high-quality pieces meant to withstand
with fashion’s hunger for more, others are aiming to change the the wear and tear of near-everyday use. “The best comment I
narrative. Reese Blutstein of Double3xposure opts for vintage can get on my Instagram,” she says, “is when someone says to
and repeat outfits, and she’s said her goal is to “show people me, ‘God, I’m bored of those shoes you’re wearing.’”

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PATCH WILSON, A
PATAGONIA SURF
AMBASSADOR FROM
ENGLAND, HIKES
TO FIND SECRET
PLACES TO CHARGE.

WHAT CAN FASHION


LEARN FROM PATAGONIA?
Brands are becoming activists, and everyone wants to be more sustainable than thou. But the
pathbreaking outdoor giant has been doing this since long before it was cool. By Véronique Hyland

SURFER : A L MACK INN ON/PATAGO NIA . ME DOF F: L AUREN ROSS/PATAG ONI A; BUSQUE TS: N EVA A N TO N.
I
t all started because DeRay Mckesson was cold. In the environment.” Now equally beloved by those scaling icy
2014, when the school administrator–turned–activist peaks and those scaling the social ladder of Fashion Week
set out to drive from his home in Minneapolis to (thus the “Patagucci” coinage), Patagonia has been walking the
Ferguson, Missouri, to protest the police shooting of walk since the ’70s. The rest of the fashion world is only now
Michael Brown, he threw on a blue vest he’d bought five years nipping at its Tevas.
earlier on a trip to New York City. Soon, images of Mckesson in Forged in the same California crucible of optimism and
the vest were blasted around the world, cementing him—and alfalfa-powered weirdness that created the Whole Earth Cat-
his outerwear of choice—as the most recognizable member of alog and Moon Juice, Patagonia was founded by rock climber
the Black Lives Matter movement. These days, he never goes Yvon Chouinard in 1973. Chouinard and his merry band of
anywhere—whether it’s a rally, his friend Prabal Gurung’s show outdoorspeople allied themselves with environmental activism
at New York Fashion Week, even The Late Show With Stephen early on: For example, when some Patagonia employees met a
Colbert—without his signature item. “I continue to wear it be- young man who was working to save a nearby riverside from
cause it reminds me that everything we went through in the development, they gave him office space to run his campaign.
street was real,” he explains. And while designers like Brunello In 1985, Patagonia formalized its commitment to advocacy with
Cucinelli and Moncler are known for their status versions of 1% for the Planet, a program that has donated more than $110
the style, Mckesson’s is a humble Patagonia (a similar vest on million from the company’s sales to environmental grassroots
its website retails for around $125). groups. The company’s Ventura headquarters is the kind of
The confluence of the outdoor brand and one of the most place where you can go surfing on your lunch hour. It’s also
prominent activists of our time is no accident. Corporations are the kind of place where you might get some side-eye if you
not people, but if they were, Patagonia might be Bernie Sanders: show up to a meeting carrying a single-use coffee cup, says Lisa
authentic and committed from the start, but only more recently Williams, the brand’s chief product officer.
lauded by the wider world for it. Mckesson says he was drawn There’s a healthy debate about whether Michael Jordan
to the brand because it “has always lived its commitment to ever said the words “Republicans buy sneakers, too,” but that

66
Front Row
justification of political apathy in the name of commerce has we do not always have every answer to. They’re helping us
long been common for fashion brands, luxury and mass alike. raise the bar.” The company has pledged to eliminate virgin
Why wade into a debate when you’re looking to clothe peo- petroleum sources by 2025, and it launched ReCrafted, an
ple on both sides of the aisle? But with a global climate crisis upcycled line made from Patagonia pieces that were beyond
looming, more and more fashion brands repair, this past year. It’s also been doing
have been speaking out. M. Sanjayan, a sideline in environmental documenta-
the CEO of Conservation International, ries: This year, Patagonia will premiere
points to the companies, including Tif- a feature on public lands called Public
fany & Co., Levi Strauss & Co., and Gap Trust. Activism doesn’t appear to have
Inc., who took out full-page newspaper turned off its customers. If anything,
ads protesting Trump’s decision to pull it “has increased their market share,”
out of the Paris climate accords in 2017. Sanjayan says. “They’ve taken a position
Around the same time, Patagonia that has ended up being good, not just
fired its own shot across the bow: joining for the planet, but for their bottom line.”
a lawsuit against the Trump administra- Between its message and its place in
tion to block cuts to two Utah national the “gorpcore” aesthetic (Sandy Liang’s
monuments. Most fashion activism stops clout fleeces, Prada’s hiking sandals),
short of the courtroom, but Patagonia Patagonia has even gained an unexpected
is leaning into this news cycle. (“Hey, fashion following, and it’s gotten requests
How’s That Lawsuit Against the Presi- to do collaborations with fashion brands,
dent Going?” read a company blog post according to Williams. Stylist Rachael
last spring.) “Every time the rest of the Wang, who is known for her street style,
industry starts catching up, they rein- LINDSAY ROSE MEDOFF AT SUAY SEW SHOP. initially admired the performance aspect
vent [themselves],” Sanjayan says. They of the clothing. “My appreciation evolved
are, Williams says, “trying to build an into reverence,” she says, “once I learned
army of conscious consumers,” many of whom are millenni- about the company’s holistic approach to environmental re-
als or Gen Zers, who’ve been raised to question many of the sponsibility and social justice. They are certainly not perfect,
fashion industry’s norms. “We are really happy that younger but they don’t claim to be. They don’t use imperfection as an
generations are asking hard questions of us, questions that excuse to stagnate.”

Global Good
With her zero-waste ethos, activist, investor, and
visionary retail entrepreneur Carmen Busquets
is using her resources to bring about lasting
change, in the fashion industry and beyond.

A GLOBAL GOODWILL AMBASSADOR to both the United


Nations and Fashion 4 Development, and a World Wildlife Fund
council member, Carmen Busquets has extended her reach well
beyond the front row. With an innate knack for seeing opportu-
nities in the most difficult of situations, Busquets managed to
successfully steer her Caracas boutique through the political
instability of her native Venezuela in the early ’90s and became
a founding majority investor in Net-a-Porter. Now she feels it is
her personal duty to empower more Latin American artisans and
entrepreneurs. Among Busquets’s 2020 initiatives is Looking for
the Masters, her first film series, which highlights the talents of
unsung craftspeople in Latin America and the Caribbean, while
aiming to ensure their artistic traditions survive through strategic
partnerships with luxury brands. Busquets has also emerged as
a mentor for the next generation of activists, such as Venezuelan
conservationist Bibiana Sucre, who is working to protect Mar-
garita Island, home to the critically endangered yellow-throated
parrot. “Bibiana has been held at gunpoint twice in recent weeks,
and her family has fled,” Busquets says. “But she remains to
protect her work, the land, and the parrots.”—Naomi Rougeau
Front Row

New Call it fashion


reincarnation:
Plants, vintage

Found scarves, and even


your old wardrobe
castoffs get an haute

Glory new life thanks to


these upcycled lines.
By Naomi Rougeau

RARE BIRD
Rianna Nektaria Kounou and Nina Kuhn search the world for eye-catching
fabrics for Rianna + Nina, their coveted line of separates and dressing
gowns. This season, the duo adds limited-edition bags to the brand’s
colorful assortment. The Treasure Box (above), crafted from upcycled
vintage scarves, features Plexiglas stone closures. (One-of-a-kind handbag,
Rianna + Nina, available exclusively at fortyfiveten.com)

UNDER COVER
Stella McCartney, a lifelong vegetarian, was a major proponent of vegan
leather and faux fur long before eco-conscious design infiltrated the
upper echelons of the fashion world. For spring, the designer previewed a
prototype of its Koba fur-free coat (seen below on Natalia Vodianova). The
industry’s first bio-based faux fur, Koba is made from plant- and recycled-
polyester–based Sorona fiber. An extended range of Koba outerwear will
be available in McCartney’s prefall collection.

VO DI ANOVA: ICO NIC/ GC/ GET T Y IMAG ES; REM AI NIN G


IMAGES: COU RT ESY OF THE D ESIGNERS.

COME ONE, COME ALL


“Can I make great clothes that work harder for me and are better for the
planet?” was the question that mother and businesswoman Veronica Chou
sought to answer when founding Everybody & Everyone. Specializing
in essentials such as jeans, tees, knits, and outerwear, the eco-innovative
womenswear brand partners with manufacturers and suppliers who are
committed to reducing water and energy usage and prioritizing the use of
recycled textiles. Best of all: It’s size-inclusive, a rarity in the eco realm.

70
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73
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Instant
Replay
Resourceful jewelry
designers are transforming
overlooked heirlooms into
covetable new creations.
’d been married nearly 12 years but

I rarely wore my ring,” says ELLE’s


accessories director, Alexis Wolfe,
of her original engagement ring.
“When I first saw Selim Mouzannar’s
work, it felt like the perfect meeting of
modernity and tradition.” Wolfe worked
with the Beirut-based designer and ar-
rived at a sustainable solution: reset-
ting her diamond in rose gold and black
enamel. Now she seldom takes it off.
Mouzannar is among a select group
of environmentally conscious jewelry tal-
ents popularizing upcycling in its highest
form. And with so much value at stake,
perhaps it’s time to take a closer look at
your own treasures before making your
next purchase. New York’s Brent Neale
Winston creates updated heirlooms us-
ing her signature flush-mount “Gypsy” E L I A N E F AT TA L
setting, which embeds stones in metal for
“I see myself much more
a mosaiclike effect, while London-based as an artist working
Eliane Fattal seeks out antique pieces, with metal, stones, and
which she transforms into fantastical history than as a jeweler.
wares that have been exhibited at So- I suppose I was looking
for jewelry that resonated
theby’s. “Our design philosophy is taking on an intellectual level.”
precious materials and giving them a Necklace, Eliane Fattal
cool, modern feel,” say Jemma Wynne x Sotheby’s Diamonds,
cofounders Stephanie Wynne Lalin and Sotheby’s Diamonds, NYC.
Jenny Klatt, who love breathing new life
into their clients’ neglected stones with
slightly minimalist, asymmetrical set- BRENT NEALE
tings. Their mantra: “If you’re not wear-
COU RTE SY OF THE DESIGNE RS; FO R D ETA ILS, SEE SHOPP I NG GUI DE.

ing it, reset it!”—Naomi Rougeau “Each finished product


is different, based on
the stones we have to

SELIM MOUZANNAR

“When resetting a ring for a client, I


always feel they want to forget any sad
JEMMA WYNNE or old energy and transform the ring into
a contemporary style full of happiness.”
“We are often approached by clients who Rings, $1,020–$4,210 each, Selim
have older pieces that need a refresh, such as Mouzannar, Dover Street Market, L.A.
an engagement ring or heirloom stone passed
down by a relative. When they’re updated, the
sentiment remains but feels more like you.”
Ring, Jemma Wynne, jemmawynne.com. 75
Accessories
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THE
CRAFT
To create spring’s most
alluring extras, designers
scoured the globe in search
of the industry’s finest
artisans. By Naomi Rougeau

DANIEL A VILLEGAS
D E Z S O B Y S A R A B E LT R Á N For Villegas’s latest collection, not just any
emeralds would do. The jeweler selected
Beltrán has long cited the hand-carving of the rarest stones from Colombia’s famed
stones as her favorite part of the design Muzo mine—which goes to great lengths
process. “It speaks to the personality of to protect the surrounding village and
Dezso,” she says. At her Jaipur outpost, provide educational initiatives—before
she employs a team of 12 artisans who cutting the gems at the brand’s EDLA
oversee the process. Wire necklace, facility in Bogotá. The result: roughhewn
$2,500, charms, $900-$5,000 each, shapes in line with Villegas’s natural
Dezso by Sara Beltrán, dezsosara.com. aesthetic. Earrings, Daniela Villegas x
Muzo Emeralds, danielavillegas.com.
CASADEI

Developed with the ITC Ethical Fashion


Initiative, Casadei’s new Artisanal Collection
supports the work of craftspeople in
developing countries. The nine styles,
ranging from gladiators to wedges, feature
the traditional striped and checkered Faso
dan fani woven cottons of Burkina Faso.
Sandal, Casadei for EFI, $950, casadei.com.

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GABRIELA HEARST LO E W E

One of the most prominent voices in the Since 2015, the Spanish house has
sustainability conversation, Hearst enlisted challenged its world-renowned artisans to
NYC-based artisan Magdalena Koluch push the limits of leather crafting with an
to hand-knit a tote with silk yarn left over ULLA JOHNSON annual exhibit at Milan’s Salone del Mobile
from previous collections and embellish furniture fair. Among the highlights of
it with ethically sourced Brazilian agate. All eyes were on the rich details at Ulla this year’s objets d’art? Intricately woven,
Tote, Gabriela Hearst, $3,000, by Johnson’s haute bohemian spring show, one-of-a-kind baskets that rival any It Bag.
request at gabrielahearst.com. from the hand-crocheted, stack-heeled Bucket bag, Loewe, $1,800, Loewe, NYC.
sandals to the fringed seed-bead belt
bags, which were fashioned by a collective
of female Masai weavers. Waist bag, Ulla
78 Johnson, $395, ullajohnson.com.
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THE
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Spring’s strongest
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NOTEN

PANTS, ANNA MASON,


$585, NET-A-PORTER.COM

SHORTS, KUT FROM


THE KLOTH, $69,
KUTFROMTHEKLOTH.COM

HANDBAG, POLO
RALPH LAUREN, $398,
RALPHLAUREN.COM TOP, SANDRO,
$145, SANDRO,
NYC

DR IES VA N NOT EN MOD EL : ISID ORE MO NTAG/ IMAXT R EE ; F IR E: C O NSTA NTIN E J O HN NY/ MOM ENT/
GET T Y IMAGES; A NNA MASON PA NTS A ND RO KSA NDA DRE SS: COURT ESY OF MO DA OP E RAND I;
REMA INING IMAGES: COURTESY O F TH E D ESIGN ERS; FOR DE TA ILS, SE E SHOP PING GUID E.
HAT, COURRÈGES, $715,
COURREGES.COM

Blaze of Glory
SNEAKER,
VANS, $60,
VANS.COM

Heat up your wardrobe with


hypersaturated, flaming hues.
S U STA I N A B L E M U S T- H AV E S 1. Rentrayage x Fasano Ceramiche
Salvaged ceramics are “rescued,” their
cracks painted over, to create beautiful
1 new heirlooms. Plate, Rentrayage x
Fasano Ceramiche, $165, rentrayage.com.

2. Talia Collins
2 Her vibrant swimwear is fashioned from
Econyl, plastic marine litter that is spun
into yarn. Bikini top, $105, bottom, $105,
Talia Collins, matchesfashion.com.

3. Pili Restrepo
Restrepo uses only fair-mined, mercury-
free, and recycled gold. Earring, Pili
3 Restrepo, $250, maison-de-mode.com.
PRADA.COM
Lift here to experience
Prada Candy Eau de Parfum

MACY'S, Sephora & Ulta


SKIRT,
SIMONE
NECKLACE, MARCO ROCHA, $930,
BICEGO, $4,690, SIMONE
MARCOBICEGO.COM ROCHA, NYC

TOP, MOLLY
GODDARD,
$1,559, NET-A-
PORTER.COM
SHIRT, ETRO,
$800,
ETRO.COM

TOP, SANDY
LIANG, $375,
SANDY
LIANG.INFO

VALENTINO

Embrace radical
transparency with SANDAL,
ALEXANDER
MCQUEEN,
$1,090,
ALEXANDER
MCQUEEN, NYC

PANTY, WIXSON
PARIS, $360, TANK, THEORY,
WIXSONPARIS.COM $105,
THEORY.COM
VA LENT INO MODE L: IMA XT REE ; CLOUD S: PHIL IP THOM PSON/ EYE EM/GET T Y IMAG ES; MO LLY G ODDA R D
TOP, ETRO SHI RT, SANDY LI ANG TO P, A ND AN A ÏS J OURD EN S KI RT: CO URTESY OF MODA OP ERA N DI ;
REMA INING IMAGES: COURTESY O F TH E D ESIGN ERS; FOR DE TA ILS, SE E SHOP PING GUID E.

SKIRT, ANAÏS
JOURDEN, $692,
ANAIS
JOURDEN.COM

S U STA I N A B L E M U S T- H AV E S 1. Henry Rose


Vetiver wood mingles with musk
2 for a fresh, EWG-verified clean
scent. Fog Eau de Parfum, Henry
Rose, $120, henryrose.com.
1
2. Sophie Buhai
Buhai opts for recycled metals and
ethically sourced gemstones. Earrings,
Sophie Buhai, $795, sophiebuhai.com.

3 3. Another Tomorrow
Sustainably milled viscose is made in a
mill that monitors its energy and water
usage. Jacket, Another Tomorrow,
$990, anothertomorrow.co.
TOP, CHRISTOPHER

Shops
KANE, $395,
CHRISTOPHERKANE.COM

TOP, MARNI,
$1,490,
MARNI.COM

EARRINGS,
DAUPHINETTE,
$35 EACH,
DAUPHINETTE.COM

PANTS, MARC
JACOBS, $1,100,
DRESS, MARINA MARCJACOBS.COM
MOSCONE, MARINA
MOSCONE.COM

MARNI

JACKET, SUPRIYA
LELE, $730,
MODAOPERANDI.COM

KA NE TO P, SUP RIYA LE LE JACKE T, M ARN I TO P, MARC JACOB S PA N TS, A ND MA RI NA MOSC ON E DRE SS: CO U RTE SY O F
MAR NI MOD EL: DA NIEL E OBE RRAUCH/ IMAXT REE ; GR EE NE RY: CA RACTE R DE SI GN/E +/G E T T Y IMAGE S; CHR ISTOP HE R

MODA OP ERA N DI; REMA ININ G I MAG ES: COU RTE SY O F T HE D ESIGNE RS; FOR DETA ILS, SEE SHOP P IN G G UID E.
SKIRT, STELLA
MCCARTNEY,
$1,475, STELLA
MCCARTNEY, NYC

SANDAL, JONAK, $72,


JONAK-PARIS.COM SUNGLASSES, TORY
BURCH, $300, TORY
BURCH.COM

Green Shoots
Vibrant nature-inspired prints and motifs
sprouted all over the spring runways.

S U STA I N A B L E M U S T- H AV E S 1. Nannacay
3 Its handcrafted accessories are made
from natural fibers such as raffia—and
the brand employs some 300 South
and Central American artisans. Clutch,
Nannacay, $336, net-a-porter.com.

2. True Botanicals
Oceanic clay and activated bamboo
2 charcoal purify and deep-cleanse. Pacific
Glacial Clay Detoxifying Mask, True
Botanicals, $75, truebotanicals.com.

3. Alberta Ferretti
Recycled cashmere and low-impact
1 organic jersey meet the astrology craze.
Sweater, Alberta Ferretti, $495, fwrd.com.
MOD EL: QU ENT IN J ONES (ST YLED BY SOP HIE B ERE SI NE R).
0 0
GREEN
BEAUTY
STARS Beauty

NATURAL
SELECTION
These innovative eco all-stars deliver big
beauty results with minimal impact on the planet.
By Ning Chao and Margaux Anbouba
91
Beauty S U STA I N A B I L I T Y

O CEA N-
F R I E N D LY FO RMU L A

Kelsen Signature
Pomade ($29)
Kelsen uses natural beeswax and its
Marine Performance Blend—a pro-
prietary, sustainably harvested mix of organic kelp,
sea holly, and sea rock fennel—in place of silicone.
“Silicone can’t be broken down; it’s like liquid plas-
tic,” says Barbara Olioso, PhD, founder of the Green
Chemist Consultancy. Kelsen’s entire blue beauty
line (see Green Dictionary sidebar) is microplastic-
free, and its recyclable packaging is made from
glass or biodegradable sugarcane, some topped off
with compostable wood-composite caps.

LO W- FO OTPR I NT
HAI R CAR E

MyKirei by Kao Nourishing


Shampoo ($18)
The groundbreaking recyclable
packaging of MyKirei, a new
beauty line from the Japanese
company Kao, employs an air-filled
design to ensure you get every last drop. Imagine
a Capri Sun that slowly collapses with each use—
but with sides rigid enough to stand up straight,
using plastic that’s 70 percent thinner than in
traditional bottles. “The shampoo formula lathers
nicely,” says celebrity hairstylist Harry Josh, “and
[the conditioner] is light enough for thin hair but
conditions enough for curlier hair types.”
MAK EU P W IT H C LEAN
SUN SCRE E N
ILIA Super Serum Skin Tint
SPF 40 ($46)
Clean makeup pioneer ILIA Beauty’s
most recent launch fuses blendable
mineral sun protection with skin-
loving ingredients like hyaluronic
acid and plant-based squalane. The result is a
silicone-free tinted serum with reef-safe, patented,
non-nano zinc oxide. “The texture goes on really
nicely,” says celebrity makeup artist Katey Denno,
SU PER EASY RE FI LLS
a nontoxic and eco-friendly product enthusiast.
“Sometimes tinted moisturizers break down under Bathing Culture Refillable
blush, but this works well with both cream and Rainbow Glass
powder blushes.” Bonus: The dropper and bottle are Mind and Body Wash ($35)
also recyclable through TerraCycle. This California company’s bottles
are already locally sourced from
100 percent preexisting recycled
GREEN materials, but now Bathing Culture
is going one step further by allowing customers
DICTIONARY to bring in any bottle (an Atlanta customer
recently brought in an empty maple syrup bottle)
ZERO WASTE to refill with the brand’s vegan, toxin-free, and
MODE L: QUE NT IN JO NES (ST YLED BY SOPH IE B ERE SI NER );

The ultimate in biodegradable Mind and Body Wash for the


sustainability, zero waste bargain price of $1.75 an ounce.
MA J O R PL AST I C- FR EE PROM IS ES can refer to anything
REMA INING IMAGES: COURTESY O F TH E B RA ND S.

Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s New Plastics from local or fair-trade WASTE-F REE
ingredient sourcing to FACE WASH
Economy Global Commitment the end of a product’s life,
More than 450 organizations have joined forces Take My Face Off Mitty Mini
in which its packaging
to make a dent in the world’s plastic consumption is 100 percent recycled, ($10)
by signing on to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s reused, or biodegradable. Disposable makeup remover wipes,
global commitment. Major companies like Unilever tissues, cotton pads, and swabs
(with brands such as Love Beauty and Planet, POST-CONSUMER sap precious resources during
Dove, and Suave), L’Oréal (Lancôme, Kiehl’s, RECYCLED PLASTIC production and ultimately translate to trash. “Cotton
etc.), and Johnson & Johnson (Neutrogena, OGX, Post-consumer recycled is one of the most toxic and water-consuming crops
Aveeno, etc.) have pledged that all their plastic (or PCR) plastic, made in the world,” says Freya Williams, author of Green
packaging will be fully recyclable, reusable, or by melting used plastics Giants and a sustainability adviser. Take My Face
compostable by 2025, helping ensure that the of all types to create Off’s Mitty Mini is a washable, zero-waste finger
amount of plastic waste in our oceans doesn’t new items, repurposes glove that replaces a number of the single-use items
outnumber the population of fish—a bleak plastic waste over in your medicine cabinet; its recyclable polyester
prediction that may be a reality by 2050. and over again. fabric absorbs less liquid than cotton does.

96
Together with the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew,
and Terracycle®, we’re working toward a
healthier planet by keeping real botanicals in
our bottles and plastic out of the sea.

BOTTLES MADE WITH 25% RECYCLED BEACH PLASTIC *


*Excluding cap

© 2020 The Procter & Gamble Company


Beauty S U STA I N A B I L I T Y

BOT T LES FRO M


BEACH PL ASTIC

Herbal Essences Beach Plastic


Collection (from $6)
Each year, about 8 million
metric tons of plastic ends
up in the ocean, which is why
Herbal Essences partnered with
TerraCycle to create a recyclable
bottle made from 25 percent beach plastic. The
plastic is collected from oceans, rivers, lakes, and
bays by organizations across the globe before
being processed into an entirely new material. GREEN
So far, Herbal Essences’ new bottles have helped
eliminate almost 7.4 tons of beach waste.

WASTE- NOT CA MPA IGN


@esteelaundry published in 2016,
#ShopMyStash garbage-truck-load
Anonymous beauty industry
watchdog @esteelaundry’s
#ShopMyStash challenge began Brands are now using MD, PhD, literally wrote the book on cosmetic
with a glamorous zero-waste call to action for ocean-bound or beach treatments—last year’s Cosmetic Dermatologic
its 154,000 followers: Finish the existing beauty plastic (found within a Surgery—but still believes plant actives, not
products in your collection instead of purchasing few miles of a waterway), lasers or injectables, are the future of antiaging.
more. Unlike clothing or a handbag, a beauty item’s or ocean-found or She sources plants from her own organic farm
lower price point makes it a tempting impulse ocean-waste plastic in upstate New York to use in her skin-care line,
buy—with a high risk of being discarded (or (foraged from the Macrene Actives, which also launched last year.
forgotten) before empty. water and beaches). Everything about the line, from what it is (vegan,
gluten-free, cruelty-free, non-GMO) to what it
LO W- PL ASTI C BIODEGRADABLE isn’t (it’s free of parabens, phthalates, sulfates,
PAC KAGI NG When discarded, a polyethylene glycol, acrylates, fragrance, silicone,
Australian Glow 1 Hour biodegradable mica, talc, mineral oil, and petrolatum), has been
Express Tan Mousse ($25) product breaks down carefully thought out. The result is highly effective
to its original natural products in which luxury and eco-consciousness
and Mousse Refills ($23) components over time, exist in perfect harmony. The line features
This year, Aussie sunless tanner whether it’s added to recyclable glass containers, mother-of-pearl
brand Australian Glow starts a backyard compost spatulas made from recycled shells, and recycled
packaging its Self Tan Mousses pile or a commercial paper packaging printed with biodegradable soy
using ocean-waste plastic, with each bottle saving facility. Biodegradable ink, ensuring that even the boxes won’t leach
eight plastic bags from the sea. The brand also sells microbeads, made
harmful chemicals in their second life.
refills of its vegan, cruelty-free, and organic formula from cellulose or fruit
in pouches that reduce plastic use by 83 percent. pits, are currently being
tested to replace the GENTLE HA IR COLOR
WAT E R- SAV I N G nonbiodegradable Schwarzkopf Simply Color
HAI R CAR E (and now banned)
plastic microbeads ($10)
Waterl<ss Collection (from $8) Permanent hair color shouldn’t
Developed during the 2018 severe used in facial scrubs
and body washes. leave an indelible stain on the
water shortage in Cape Town, planet, and at-home hair color

A LEXIAD ES: NG OC MINH N GO; RE MA INING IM AGE S: COURT ESY O F T HE B RAN DS.
South Africa, the Waterl<ss hair-care CARBON-NEGATIVE company Schwarzkopf is working
line saves earth’s most precious to lessen its mark. The new ammonia-, silicone-, and
From growing crops
resource: water. Recyclable to manufacturing, a lot alcohol-free Simply Color formula, which comes in
aluminum cans are filled with of energy is expended 12 shades, is less damaging to your hair, and the
shampoo, conditioner, and stylers that help stretch to produce a single packaging, made from difficult-to-recycle materials
the time between washes. “Dry styling products are beauty product. A (such as color cream tubes), can be recycled
a must for everyone [looking to conserve] water,” step beyond carbon- through TerraCycle. Even the lid is biodegradable,
Josh says. “I love dry shampoo for adding texture neutral, carbon-negative making the entire packaging zero waste.
and grip. The Waterl<ss one doesn’t leave any production means that
residue or color behind in your hair.” a company offsets more AFFOR DA BLE G REEN
carbon emissions than M U S T- H AV E
B IODEG RADAB LE C REAM it produces, explains Cleen Beauty Mineral SPF
Freya Williams.
Caudalie Vinoperfect Instant 30 Face Moisturizer Broad
Brightening Moisturizer ($59) Spectrum Sunscreen
Caudalie’s newest face cream ($10)
is packed with niacinamide and white peony, all With every product priced under
housed in a biodegradable formula. Cofounder $10 and available at megaretailer Walmart, Cleen
Mathilde Thomas has banned parabens, Beauty makes paraben-, phthalate-, mineral oil–,
phenoxyethanol, phthalates, sodium laureth sulfate, and cruelty-free skin care accessible for every
mineral oils, silicones, bisphenols, and animal- budget. It’s also vegan. A standout in the 14-product
derived ingredients from the brand’s products, and collection is the moisturizer made with SPF 30
she estimates the company offsets approximately zinc oxide sunscreen, which goes on sheer while
four times its carbon footprint. Plus, she’s set a goal smoothing skin with shea butter (and it’s packaged
of zero-waste packaging by 2022. in a recyclable container, to boot).

98
U by Kotex® CleanWear®

to after-party.
Beauty S U STA I N A B I L I T Y

A RE D LI P
T H AT ’ S G R E E N GREEN E A R T H - F R I E N D LY

Clean Beauty Collective Clean


SC ENT

Āether Beauty Radiant Ruby Reserve Radiant Nectar ($98)

MODE L: QUE NT IN JO NES (ST YLED BY SOPH IE B ERE SI NER ); RE MAI NIN G I MAG ES: COU RT ESY OF TH E B RAND S.
Lip Crème ($28) Fragrance is notoriously difficult
This creamy lip formula uses BLUE BEAUTY to formulate in a clean way
crushed gemstone powder from Beauty products that because phthalates, commonly
ethically and sustainably sourced wash down the drain can used to give scents their staying
rubies to give you the perfect red wind up in waterways, power, are considered potential
lip—sans any animal-derived ingredients (many endangering marine life. hormone disrupters (a study published in the journal
traditional red lipsticks use crushed beetle shells). For example, chemicals Ecotoxicology and Environmental Safety found that
In addition to being vegan, it’s the first luxury found in sunscreens,
phthalates can end up in streams and turn male fish
lip color packaging to be made of 100 percent such as oxybenzone
and octinoxate, are said into females). Clean Beauty Collective formulates its
recycled plastic. “The first layer wears like a vegan and cruelty-free perfumes without phthalates
pigmented gloss, but it [turns into] a lip stain,” to contribute to coral
bleaching. Blue beauty or parabens—instead using sustainably harvested
Denno says. “I’m not sure which I like more!” can include reef-safe essential oils and blue beauty–friendly ingredients—
sunscreen and drought- and also manufactures its scents in a facility that
FU LL- C IRCL E friendly formulas to uses solar power for 80 percent of its energy. Clean
SK IN CAR E Reserve Radiant Nectar, a blend of ambrette seeds,
protect our lakes, rivers,
Fresh Lotus and oceans, as well pear nectar, orris butter, tobacco flower, cedarwood,
Youth Preserve as their inhabitants. and musk, comes in a glass bottle that is reusable
Skincare (from and recyclable, and even the cap is made from
sustainable wood.
$19)
To sustainably MEET OUR EXPERTS
G U I LT- F R E E FLOSS
KATEY DENNO, CELEBRITY
source the lotus MAKEUP ARTIST AND CLEAN
used in its Lotus LIVING EXPERT; HARRY JOSH, Terra & Co. Brilliant
CELEBRITY HAIRSTYLIST
Youth Preserve line, AND FOUNDER OF HARRY Black Dental Floss ($10)
Fresh partnered JOSH PRO TOOLS; BARBARA Touted as one of the world’s
OLIOSO, MANAGING
with Ten Mile Creek DIRECTOR OF THE GREEN most renewable and sustainable
Nursery in Alabama. CHEMIST CONSULTANCY crops, bamboo is the backbone
IN SOMERSET, UNITED
Each lotus is KINGDOM, AND A CHEMISTRY of Terra & Co.’s biodegradable
handpicked from the PHD; JESSICA RICHARDS,
FOUNDER OF BROOKLYN
floss. Woven with antibacterial activated charcoal
water in full bloom—flower, stem, and root—and then CLEAN BEAUTY BOUTIQUE and scented with mint-spiked coconut oil, this
tested in the on-site mobile lab to ensure maximum, SHEN BEAUTY; AND FREYA floss is chic enough to make recommended daily
WILLIAMS, AUTHOR OF GREEN
well, freshness. The plants are gently pressed whole GIANTS AND CEO OF THE flossing a reality. Toss used floss (and Terra & Co.’s
to extract their juice, and all by-products are returned NORTH AMERICA DIVISION biodegradable box) into the compost bin instead
OF FUTERRA, A GLOBAL
to the soil, so there is zero waste. SUSTAINABILITY AGENCY. of the trash can.

100
© 2020 The Caldrea Company. All Rights Reserved.
Beauty EL LE WO RD

Victoria Beckham
The designer and beauty boss proves that
clean beauty is more than just a pared-down
ingredient list: It’s a way of life. By Kate Foster
It should come as no surprise that Victoria Beckham doesn’t
believe in excess. The fashion elite consider her scrupulously
tailored clothing designs a mainstay. But the world first came
to know her as Posh, one-fifth of the Spice Girls, notably sleek
in a uniform of little black dresses that, like her more current
nickname (VB), were short and sweet. Her eponymous clean
beauty line, which debuted this past fall, is no different. The
list of excluded ingredients—31—dramatically outnumbers the
items themselves: five makeup and two skin-care products,
clad in chic tortoiseshell packaging made with minimal plas-
tic and shipped in biodegradable foam. “It was about creating
what I want in my own makeup bag,” Beckham says. “The
most luxurious formulas, but really making sure that they were
clean.” In ELLE’s word-association interview, she discusses
her family’s eco toothbrushes, a secret Posh project, and more.

START “I’ve really enjoyed educating


myself, my team, and my

CLEAN
community about clean beauty.
YOUR FIRST WORD IS… At home, [being environmentally
friendly] is something we all
take seriously. We try to use
minimal amounts of plastic and
“We have an entire Victoria paper [and instead use] bamboo
Beckham community through toothbrushes, glass water bottles,
the fashion, design, beauty, and washable face pads.”

COMMUNITY
and philanthropic work I’ve
been doing over the last…
goodness, 20 years. We’re
very transparent on the beauty
website and love to share

DESIGN
everything we’ve learned.”
“When I’m not with David and
the children, I’m challenging
myself with the next collection.
I’m quite a minimalist—I don’t
like anything too fussy—and
I feel I’ve created very strong
brand signatures over the last

STRONG
“I consider myself a strong
few seasons with regard to
woman. I talked about girl
silhouette and color.”
power years ago as Posh
Spice, and now it’s about
empowering women and
BEC KHAM: TOM NEW TON; REMA INING IMAGE S: C OU RTE SY OF T HE BR A NDS.
men through beauty and
fashion. I have female CEOs

POSH
for our fashion and beauty
lines. I love to surround
myself with strong women.”

“There is a Posh surprise


coming soon, and all I will
say is, it’s not musical.”

VICTORIA’S FAVORITES

“I COVER MY FACE AND NECK “THESE ANTIAGING SUPPLEMENTS


WITH THIS SERUM, WHICH HAS HAVE SIGNIFICANT SCIENCE
FRAGMENTED HYALURONIC BEHIND THEM. I BELIEVE IN THEIR
ACID AND NIACINAMIDE. I REALLY BENEFITS FOR MY WELL-BEING,
NOTICE A DIFFERENCE.” BOTH INSIDE AND OUT.”
VICTORIA BECKHAM BY AUGUSTINUS BADER CELL REJUVENATING ELYSIUM BASIS CELLULAR HEALTH & OPTIMIZATION
POWER SERUM, $210, VICTORIABECKHAMBEAUTY.COM DIETARY SUPPLEMENT, $60, ELYSIUMHEALTH.COM

102
Mineral-based broad spectrum sun protection for every type of skin
and lifestyle. Formulated with transparent zinc oxide to help prevent
early skin aging and skin cancer caused by the sun.

ASK YOUR DERMATOLOGIST AND VISIT ELTAMD.COM/BUY


The Dirty Truth
With escalating concerns about the chemicals in
everyday beauty products, a battle is raging online and,
now, in DC. Martha McCully investigates.

n January, the Food and Drug Administration Retailers like Follain, The Detox Market, and Credo, which bans
published a study revealing that certain chemical more than 2,700 ingredients from the products on its shelves,

I sunscreens can be absorbed through the skin and


into our bloodstreams. While it corroborated a pi-
lot study the FDA executed less than a year earlier,
warn against ingredients with links to health issues. Parabens,
phthalates, 1,4-dioxane, aluminum compounds, PEGs, chemical
sunscreens, and synthetic fragrance are just a few currently un-
this new research showed that these sunscreens der scrutiny. Words like fragrance, parfum, and flavor also raise
can be absorbed into the blood at levels that exceed the FDA eyebrows because they often serve as a catchall for hundreds of
threshold presumed to be safe. Both the agency and other experts undisclosed chemicals (since scent is considered a trade secret).
have underscored that there is no current evidence that these In recent years, demand for “nontoxic” beauty products has
ingredients actually do harm—but that didn’t stop the reincarna- become so strong that retailers like Sephora, Saks Fifth Avenue,
tion of an old debate: Are our beauty products slowly killing us? and Target have established their own clean beauty seals and/
If you watch this year’s buzzy documentary Toxic Beauty, or designated shopping sections. Meanwhile, the Environmental
released in January and featuring interviews with doctors who Working Group’s ingredient database, Skin Deep—once con-
specialize in environmental health, oncologists, and cancer sidered the bête noire of mainstream beauty brands—is now a
patients suing beauty companies, you might very well think so. resource for major names like Procter & Gamble.

104
EL LENESS Beauty
Promising? Perhaps. But if you ask many chemists and prod- to the safety of cosmetic products,” says Janet Nudelman, direc-
uct creators about these developments, you may not hear a sigh tor of the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, which is sponsoring the
of relief. “I roll my eyes every time someone wants to create a two bills in California.
new brand and the first thing out of their mouth is ‘clean,’” says Think about formaldehyde, flagged as a possible human
developer Tamar Lara Kamen, who has worked with companies carcinogen by the National Toxicology Program in 1981; it’s still
such as Estée Lauder and Peter Thomas Roth. “I truly do not be- allowed in hair-straightening treatments. Or triclosan, found to
lieve that topical skin care can be dangerous systemically.” When potentially cause tumors, which was a commonplace antibac-
asked about research linking ingredients like parabens and terial ingredient until it was banned from liquid soap in 2016
phthalates to hormone disruption and even cancer, Kamen says (though it may still be in your toothpaste). That’s not to say that
the test doses are at levels “disproportionate to what you would all synthetics are bad and all natural ingredients are entirely
put on your face.” In other words, it’s the dose that makes the safe—some essential oils can burn the skin, and asbestos is a nat-
poison. After all, even water can kill you if you drink too much. urally occurring mineral fiber. Last fall, JAMA published a letter
The stark difference of opinion is most acute online, of course, entitled “Natural Does Not Mean Safe: The Dirt on Clean Beauty
and laced with plenty of vitriol. Scroll through the comments Products,” which warned against misleading greenwashing tac-
sections of Insta-famous beauty chemists like LabMuffin- tics in marketing. Plus, sometimes the ousting of one ingredient
BeautyScience of Australia or anonymous beauty vigilante can usher in another that may be just as harmful, if not more so.
Estée Laundry, and you’ll find fiery disagreements about what’s But consumer demand alone can also push out ingredients if they
bad for your body, what’s bad for the environment, and what’s are perceived as dangerous. Houston-based product developer
blatant fearmongering. Grab some popcorn and prepare to Goo- Mark Broussard says, “Once something [takes] hold in the minds
gle a few ingredients—or 100. of consumers, what’s the point? If consumers see parabens in
What may finally bring down the gavel on some of these your product, they won’t buy it.”
disputes is the Cosmetic Safety Enhancement Act of 2019, intro- Parabens, one of the most oft-cited and oft-defended ingre-
duced in the U.S. House of Representatives last December—only dients of concern, may be the poster child for the clean beauty
the second time in 40 years there’s been a hearing about cosmetics conflict. Commonly used in cosmetics and other products as
reform on the federal level—and two new bills in California. The preservatives, parabens have been shown to mimic estrogen,
key proposals in the act require cosmetic companies to register qualifying them as endocrine disrupters—but research has also
formulas with the FDA and mandate better ingredient transpar- shown that parabens’ ability to bind to human estrogen receptors
A RT W ORK: FRO M THE SUMMER PERSPEC TIVE SE RIE S BY SUZ ANNE SA ROF F/P RINT & CONTACT; RE MA INI N G IM AGE S: COURTE SY O F TH E BR AN DS.

ency. California’s bills have similar demands: One would require is weak. And while oncology professor Philippa Darbre, PhD,
the disclosure of fragrance and flavor chemicals deemed toxic to says in Toxic Beauty that “I’m actually quite upset about how
human health and the environment but allow nontoxic chemicals much [paraben] I’ve measured in human breast tissue,” there is
to remain confidential. The second bill would outlaw 13 of the still no evidence that its presence actually triggers cancer. “Para-
most hazardous chemicals still permissible in the States, including bens are naturally occurring in fruits and vegetables, so custom-
formaldehyde, lead, mercury, asbestos, and two phthalates and ers are being exposed to them anyway,” says New Jersey–based
two parabens already banned by the European Union. cosmetic chemist Ni’Kita Wilson. “There is a class of parabens
More than 1,300 ingredients are currently off-limits in the that have been banned in the EU, not because they were deemed
EU. In comparison, the United States has only prohibited 11. unsafe but because there wasn’t enough data.”
While some big beauty companies formulate products for their Nevertheless, many dermatologists remain skeptical. “I take
international markets simultaneously (making them de facto ingredients in products incredibly seriously, and so do my pa-
compliant with the strictest laws), the last time the U.S. updat- tients,” says Whitney Bowe, MD, who practices in New York City.
ed its list was in 1938, decades before retinol or long-wearing “In the case of parabens, I don’t believe in innocent until proven
waterproof carbon black mascara was even invented. guilty.” Macrene Alexiades, MD, PhD, who published a paper on
Surprisingly, the FDA does not regulate the beauty industry the toxicity of parabens in The Journal of Drugs in Dermatology
as a matter of course (nor does any other federal agency), and in 2008, agrees: “When people are applying five products a day,
the terms green, botanical, pure, safe, nontoxic, vegan, and, yes, they’re exceeding the maximum allowable amount by tenfold.”
clean are not regulated by any governing body (the term organic Most American women use 12 cosmetic products a day (or 33,
is regulated by the USDA, not the FDA). It’s up to a company like yours truly). They add up.
to test whether its products are safe. Does that happen? Four “It’s well documented in medical toxicology journals that en-
sources I spoke with used the phrase “the Wild West” to describe docrine disrupters act additively,” says Ruthann Rudel, director
of research at the Silent Spring Institute CONTINUED ON PAGE 172

Coming Clean
Beauty brands are
tweaking formulas,
eliminating
ingredients, THIS FINE, LEAVE-IN
MIST DETANGLES,
FINELY MILLED VOLCANIC
MINERALS, SANS TALC,
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innovative natural SHINE WITH PLANT-
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FORMALDEHYDE,
TOLUENE, PHTHALATES,
HEALTH RISKS, BUT
MANY STILL AVOID IT.
AND CONTROL
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alternatives. OF SILICONE. DRUNK
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Beauty
G RO U P CH AT

SAFER
STRANDS
POETREE Top hair pros share their favorite nontoxic hair
@poeism
Influencer, artist,
colors and smoothers in light of unsettling new
dancer, poet, model research linking traditional formulas to health
concerns for black women. By Nykia Spradley
“I use Mofajang Color Hair
Wax ($30) for quick color.
The texture, smell, and
application are similar to
that of a conditioner, and the
ingredients—like beeswax
and castor oil, which are
amazing for dry hair—are
100 percent natural. It’s a
temporary dye that comes in
seven different colors, and
I mix them [together] for
more shade options. I love
that I don’t have to lift my
hair [with bleach] first in
order to get vibrant color.”

KENDALL DORSEY
@kendalldorsey1
Celebrity hairstylist
Clients: Solange, Yara
Shahidi, Justine Skye

“Olaplex No. 6 Bond

MODE L: MAT T HEW KRISTA LL; D ORSEY: MAT T EO PR A NDONI /B FA; RE MA INI NG IMAG ES: C OU RTESY OF T HE BRAN DS.
Smoother ($28) is a magical
substitute for a salon
A recent study published smoothing treatment. Unlike
a relaxer, it’s a temporary
in the International solution, but the humectants
Journal of Cancer found and humidity blockers can
that regular use of actually seal the hair for up to
72 hours. I apply it to damp
permanent hair dye hair before blow-drying. For
can increase the risk of a sleeker blowout, divide hair
into four sections with claw
breast cancer among clips, then use a boar-bristle
black women by 60 brush and a concentrator
percent, while chemical nozzle on the dryer.”
hair straighteners are
associated with a 30
percent increase.

RO MORGAN
@hairbyromorgan “This is
Celebrity hairstylist hydroxide-
Clients: Joan Smalls, Naomi Campbell, Precious Lee free and one
“Relaxing hair bone-straight makes it more prone to breakage—
of the only
some of the more suspicious ingredients in relaxers, like sodium straighteners
hydroxide, or lye, do this. Instead, I use Phyto PhytoSpecific with naturally
Phytorelaxer ($65) on my clients every 8 to 10 weeks. Soybean derived active
extract and egg relax the hair; wheat proteins help strengthen
and repair; and marshmallow root moisturizes and detangles.
relaxing
Depending on how fast your hair grows, it’s possible to get ingredients.”
as much sleekness as you would with a traditional relaxer —RO MORGAN
containing lye in the same amount of time.”

106
Beauty

WISHFUL YO GLOW ENZYME SCRUB,


$39, SHOPHUDABEAUTY.COM

“SO YOU REALLY WANT TO KNOW


[what I’ve had done]?” says Huda Kat-
tan through a shy smile. I do—and I’m
guessing her 43 million Instagram fol-
lowers and 3.8 million YouTube sub-
scribers are also curious.
We’re sitting in the bathroom of Huda
Beauty’s Dubai headquarters, which of-
ten doubles as the setting for the videos
that launched a thousand cut creases.
The 36-year-old entrepreneur takes a
deep breath and walks me through all the
work it’s taken—both cosmetically and
mentally—to transform herself into the
makeup innovator, mother, and monon-
ymous beauty icon she is today.
A nose job in 2013. Subtle Botox
tweaks in the face and jawline. A breast
lift. Fillers in her lips, cheeks, and chin,
and under the eyes. Dissolving those fill-
ers because she felt like it was too much.
Feng shui consultations. Thread lifts in
her jaw and cheeks. Semi-shaved-off
brows. Three years working with a life
coach. And, most recently, an innovative
treatment created by her Dubai-based
dermatologist, Marta Duarte, MD, that
was inspired by her most critical You-
Tube followers. “I used to get comments
saying, ‘You look like a nutcracker,’” Kat-
tan says about the smile lines on either
side of her mouth. “My doctor developed
a procedure where she goes in with a
small needle and actually rips the skin off
the muscle piece by piece. It’s very pain-
ful.” When she’s in full glam, like today,

Huda Bares
it’s all topped with the icing on the pro-
cedural cake: about two hours of makeup.
It’s hard not to balk at this confession.
But Kattan’s complete transparency—at
a time when many are still hesitant to

It All
disclose that they have had even a drop
of injectables, let alone cosmetic sur-
The makeup artist and mogul gery—is a refreshing part of her brand. “I
celebrates her new skin-care line, started bruising [from the treatments],”
Wishful, by removing the layers she says. “And I was like, ‘What do I do?
of makeup that made her famous. Cover them up? Show them?’ And I was
By Margaux Anbouba like, ‘Fuck it. I’ll just start showing them.’
It’s important for me to tell people when

PHOTOGRAPHED BY FRANCESCO LUIGI SCOTTI.


I’m doing something. And it’s liberating.” the Huda Beauty blog and began sharing couldn’t find any that delivered glowy,
In addition to her camera, her crew, tutorials and makeup reviews. even results without irritating her im-
and my recorder, her bathroom is over- Her first product launch in 2013—a balanced, sensitive skin. Enter Wish-
run with serums, makeup products, and line of false lashes—caught the eye of ful. “What do you wish for in good skin
skin-care tools—some from her own sev- Kim Kardashian West. “I was creating care?” she says of her new line. “Your
en-year-old brand, which was recently my own lashes by using bits and pieces wish is our command. We’re going to
valued at $1.2 billion, and some sent to from different brands to make unique solve it.”
her by brands desperate to appear The first product, Yo Glow
on her social channels. Enzyme Scrub, is an exfoliating
The child of Iraqi immigrants, whip that you smooth onto dry,
Kattan was born in Oklahoma City KATTAN
IN A FULL
clean skin to gently resurface
and eventually moved to Cookev- FACE OF
GLAM,
and even skin tone. It’s a combi-
ille, Tennessee, with her family. MOMENTS
BEFORE
nation of soft cellulose pieces (an
Growing up in the South, Kattan SHE eco-friendly alternative to micro-
REMOVED
found her name, heritage, and IT ALL beads), alpha and beta hydroxy ac-
FOR OUR
appearance made her feel like an SHOOT. ids, and a surprise ingredient that
outsider. She spent her formative inspired the baby-yellow packag-
years trying to find a way to blend ing: bromelain. Kattan discovered
in, which included briefly going the anti-inflammatory enzyme
by the more culturally ambiguous while recovering from her nose job.
name Heidi. Still feeling insecure, “I had to go straight back to shoot-
she turned to makeup. “I felt like ing videos,” she says. “I knew bro-
I wasn’t pretty,” she says. “I saw all melain was one of the best things
these celebrities on television and for [reducing] inflammation, so I
thought they were so glamorous juiced a pineapple every day. When
and beautiful. I thought [make- I took the cast off my nose, it looked
up] might make me feel a sense of like I hadn’t had anything done. I
happiness.” became obsessed.”
Kattan’s love affair with cos- It’s an unusual choice to launch
metics began at age 14, when an exfoliator as a skin-care line’s
she discovered a pinkish-brown sole product. But then again, few
Revlon lipstick in her sister Alya’s
makeup bag. “It was so beautiful,”
“I thought [makeup] could have predicted that a line
of false lashes would ultimately
she says. “I couldn’t really afford might make spawn a billion-dollar beauty em-
to buy my own, but I always used
to borrow it from her.” By the time me feel a sense pire. Kattan realizes some may be
dubious about entrusting their skin
she was studying finance at the
University of Michigan–Dearborn,
of happiness.” to a makeup artist known for “cake
face.” But, she says, her hours of
Kattan was taking every opportu- makeup training give her unique
nity she could find to do makeup— insight. “An exfoliator is the one
for friends, for school plays, for basically lashes that felt good and looked like natu- product everybody needs to have. I use
KAT TA N IN MAK EUP : MA RGAUX A N BO UBA; WISHFUL SCRUB: COU RT ESY OF T HE B RA ND.

anyone who needed a (free) makeup ral lashes, even if superdramatic,” Kattan this before makeup because it smooths
artist. She took a finance job at the Dubai says, wearing her signature lengthening everything out.” By whisking away dead
outpost of a consulting firm after gradu- lashes, called Hoodie. “Most falsies were skin cells, the product also helps skin-
ating, which lasted less than a year before just a single strip, which doesn’t emulate care ingredients work better. “It’s great
her role at the company was eliminated a natural lash. It wasn’t until we created for everyone,” she says, “whether you
due to the recession. In a vlog on her our own product that things changed. wear tons of makeup or not.”
website, Kattan admits that finance was People became more interested in what At the end of our talk, Kattan em-
“just not the right fit.” It was her other we were saying.” barks on the ultimate beauty dare: Star-
sister, Mona (one of Huda Beauty’s early A full makeup range eventually fol- ing directly into the camera, she peels off
investors, along with Alya), who suggest- lowed, and by 2017, Kattan was named her lashes. Then, using her long, spar-
ed she study makeup. With the support one of the 25 most influential figures kling nails, she scoops out a dollop of
of her entire family, Kattan moved to Los on the internet by Time magazine, and Huda Beauty Makeup Remover Balm
Angeles in 2009 to attend the Joe Blasco one of the top 10 beauty influencers by and gently massages it over her entire
Makeup Training Center. After com- Forbes. But something was still holding face. A few Bioderma-laden cotton pads
pleting her coursework, she returned her back from truly feeling confident: her later and she’s barefaced. “Beauty actual-
to Dubai and began working as a pro- skin. For years, Kattan had used makeup ly has very little to do with what you see,”
fessional makeup artist. Early clients to mask insecurities about her skin and she says, as the photographer captures
included Eva Longoria, Nicole Richie, feeling like an outsider. Now she want- picture after picture of her without a
and several members of various Middle ed to put her best face forward—with stitch of makeup. “Since I like my skin
Eastern royal families. In 2010, again or without makeup. Despite having an now, I feel confident and proud. Every-
encouraged by her sisters, she founded entire roomful of skin-care products, she body should feel that way.” ▪

109
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RADO & ELLE
ACCESSORIES MASTERCLASS
To kick off the holiday season, ELLE Accessories Director
Alexis Wolfe and Rado CEO Matthias Breschan co-hosted
an exclusive accessories trends masterclass at Macy’s Herald BEAUTIFY YOUR HOME
Square. Guests learned how to style Rado timepieces for Pledge® Beautify It products enhance
different festive occasions, were gifted a complimentary styling wood and other hard surfaces by polishing,
session, enjoyed a champagne bar, and got the chance protecting, and leaving behind a refreshing
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scent that will impress you and your guests.
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From left: ELLE Accessories Director Alexis Wolfe and Rado CEO Matthias Breschan

NORDSTROM & ELLE


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SHOE CAPSULE COLLECTION
Nordstrom and ELLE Editor-in-Chief Nina Garcia
co-hosted an in-store cocktail party to celebrate the
retailer’s NYC flagship opening and Perfect Pairs,
a curated collection of exclusive shoes inspired
by a diverse group of noteworthy New Yorkers
and their personal style.
CHECK OUT THE NEW NORDSTROM NYC AT
225 W. 57 TH STREET OR VISIT NORDSTROM.COM

From left: Kim Shui, Patricia Field, Nina Garcia, Elizabeth Sulcer and Libby Edelman

V I S I T E L L E E X T R A . C O M F O R PA R T I E S , P E O P L E , A N D P R O D U C T S W E ’ R E O B S E S S E D W I T H T H I S M O N T H .
Fashioning Change | P E R S P E C T I V E S

A LETTER
TO EVERYONE
WHO HAS A
CHANCE TO
BE HEARD
The now 17-year-
old activist shares a
call to action in Our
House Is on Fire.
By Greta Thunberg

y name is Greta and I am 15 years not even have lived half our lives. My grandfather is 93 and his father lived to

M
old. My little sister, Beata, will be 99, so it’s not an impossibility that we’re going to have long lives.
turn 13 this autumn. We can’t In the years 2078 and 2080, we will celebrate our seventy-fifth birthdays.
vote in the parliamentary election If we have children and grandchildren, perhaps they’ll celebrate those birth-
THUNBERG: RYAN PFLUGER/AUGUST IMAGE.

even though the political issues days with us. Perhaps we’ll tell them what it was like when we were children.
now at stake are going to affect Perhaps we’ll tell them about all of you.
our whole lives in a way that can’t be compared Perhaps they are going to wonder why you, who had the chance to be
with previous generations. heard, didn’t speak up. But it doesn’t have to be that way. We could all start
If we live to be 100, then we’re going to be here acting as if we were in the middle of the crisis we are in fact in.
well into the next century, and that sounds really You keep saying that the children are our future, and that you would do
strange, I know. Because when you talk about the anything for them. Such things sound full of hope. If you mean what you say,
future today, it usually means in just a few years’ then please listen to us—we don’t want your pep talks. We don’t want your
time. Everything beyond the year 2050 is so dis- presents, your package holidays, your hobbies, or your unlimited options. We
tant that it doesn’t even exist in our imaginations. want you to seriously get involved in the acute sustainability crisis going on
But by then my little sister and I—hopefully—will all around you. And we want you to start speaking up and telling it like it is. ▪

From Our House Is on Fire: Scenes of a Family and a Planet in Crisis by Greta Thunberg, Svante Thunberg, Malena Ernman, and Beata Ernman,
published by Penguin Books, an imprint of Penguin Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC. Copyright © 2018 by Malena Ernman,
Svante Thunberg, Greta Thunberg, Beata Ernman, and Bokförlaget Polaris. Translation copyright © 2020 by Paul Norlen and Saskia Vogel.
SEEDS OF HOPE
Could an innovative
reforestation program in the
Amazon help stem the tide
of climate change–fueled
megafires across the globe?
By Molly Langmuir
Fashioning Change | P E R S P E C T I V E S

he numbers are difficult to

T
even comprehend. By late
January, with many sections
of Australia still ablaze, the
nation’s latest fire season had
left more than 27 million acres
burned (an area roughly the size of Virginia)
and at least 30 people dead, and had produced
a smoke plume large enough to cover the con-
tinental U.S. By one estimate, over a billion ani-
mals perished. “It’s such a big number, you forget
how much suffering is involved,” says Gerardo
Huertas, who leads disaster operations and risk
reduction worldwide for the global nonprofit
World Animal Protection (and who recently
traveled to Australia to provide technical assis-
tance). “Animals can’t necessarily outrun the
fires, and they can’t escape them by climbing into
trees. Koalas, for instance, live in eucalyptus trees,
which catch fire like they’re made of gasoline.”
Some wildfires were so hot they generated their
own storm systems, which then spread fire even
further through lightning strikes. One such strike
was responsible for the fire tornado on Kangaroo
Island—a wildlife sanctuary with such a high level
of biodiversity it’s been likened to Noah’s Ark—
where half the island’s koala population, which
numbered around 50,000, was feared dead.
Wildfires have always occurred naturally, but
the intensity of these particular fires is unprece-
dented, and while poor land management plays a
role, so does human-caused climate change. Last
year was the hottest and driest in Australia since
the country began keeping records 109 years ago.
And the fires there are just the latest in a series
of uniquely intense wildfires around the world.
“There were the fires in the Amazon, then Cali-
fornia, then Borneo, and now Australia—the scale
of these fires is much worse than it has ever been,”
says Sebastian Troëng, executive vice president
of the environmental nonprofit Conservation
International. “It makes you wonder where will
be next.”
It also makes you wonder what can be done.
One potential way forward was suggested by a
study in the journal Science last July, which found
that there is enough vacant land on the planet to
sustain an additional 2.25 billion acres of forest
without shrinking cities or farms. Once these
forests matured, they could store more than 200
gigatons of carbon, helping counteract roughly
two-thirds of all man-made carbon emissions.
In 2017, Conservation International made refor-
estation a key part of its climate change strategy
and launched a program to restore 70,000 acres,
or about 73 million trees, in the Brazilian Amazon.
“To avoid the climate tipping point, we have to cut
our emissions in half by 2030,” says Nikola Alex-
SMOKE RISES FROM LAST
SUMMER’S AMAZON WILDFIRES,
andre, a restoration fellow at the organization.
MANY OF WHICH OCCURRED
IN AREAS THAT HAD BEEN
(Since the beginning of the Industrial Revolution,
RECENTLY DEFORESTED. the world has warmed by 1.8 degrees Fahrenheit;

113
P E R S P E C T I V E S | Fashioning Change

many scientists suggest the tipping point could


occur with a warming of 2.7 degrees Fahrenheit.)
“But we’re no longer in a position to only reduce
emissions. We have to actively remove carbon
from the atmosphere. From our perspective, the HOW TO
most cost-effective way to do that is by bringing
areas that have been damaged back to life.”
BUILD A
When most people think of reforestation,
they envision planting saplings in the ground. But
MOVEMENT
newly planted trees often require a fair amount
of care, especially if they aren’t native to the area;
In just two
even if they do thrive, the resulting monocultural years, the UK’s
forests are not as biologically diverse as naturally
growing forests. Thus the process Conservation
upstart radical
International supports in the Amazon—which is
derived from the practices of indigenous people—
environmentalist
instead involves spreading a mixture of around
AMAZONIA
BY THE
NUMBERS
group Extinction
90 different native seeds. In addition to being
cost-effective and low-maintenance, this method Rebellion has
produces thick growth that can absorb up to 40
times more carbon than a monocultural forest. 30,000,000
gone global.
People live in the Am- By Adrienne Gaffney
azon River basin—the
populations of Tokyo,
Mexico City, and New “IT’S BEGINNING TO LOOK apoc-a-lyp-
York City combined.
tic…” sings a small group of Christmas carolers,
10% hunched under an awning just outside the New
Of all known York City Council’s downtown offices during a
species live in the chilly December downpour. Bundled in bright
Amazon rain forest. red scarves with sewn-on patches represent-
2.7° Fahrenheit ing the hourglass logo of international climate
action group Extinction Rebellion, the carolers
The tipping point at
which climate project an energy that’s both festive and dour.
change could upend Their subversive performance is part of “The
life as we know it. Twelve Days of Crisis,” a series of global protests
$18,500,000 designed to build awareness about the urgency
of climate change. “Extinction Rebellion was the
HUNDREDS OF KOALAS WERE RESCUED AND TREATED What Ecuador received
AT A MAKESHIFT FIELD HOSPITAL ON KANGAROO from the Green Climate first thing that really spoke to me as far as action
ISLAND OFF THE SOUTH COAST OF AUSTRALIA.
Fund for cutting that aligned with the current ecological emer-
its deforestation rate gency,” says member Christina See, a graduate
in half over the
Engaging those who live in the area and mak- past two decades. student in food policy at New York University,
ing sure the process benefits them economically is who serves as the local chapter’s coordinator
SOURCE: CONSERVATION
essential, says Mauricio Bianco, vice president of INTERNATIONAL of political strategy. The group’s tactics, which
Conservation International–Brazil, since “if you have ranged from supergluing themselves to
don’t see a value in the forest, you cut it down.” In roads, trains, and buildings to attempting to shut
Brazil, all Amazon landowners must maintain up down airports and oil rigs, are extreme and often
to 80 percent of their land as forest, and many of deliberately disruptive. “It’s not just like, ‘Hey,
the acres Conservation International hopes can let’s sign some petitions,’” she says. “It’s about
be regenerated have been provided by farmers taking real action.”
trying to come into compliance with the law. Extinction Rebellion began in April 2018
Indigenous people are paid to collect seeds and when a diverse group of about 15 activists met at
then spread them by hand; farmers also spread Gail Bradbrook’s house in the Cotswolds. Brad-
the seeds with soybean machinery. Scientists brook, a molecular biophysicist who’d been a
GET INVOLVED
have suggested that if 20 to 25 percent of the part of antifracking protests and the Occupy
Visit conservation.org
Amazon is cleared, it could reach its own tipping to find out how you movement, was joined by others accustomed
point and become a savanna. Already, 17 percent can help the organi- to making splashy statements for the cause.
is gone. “If we lose the Amazon, we are not go- zation’s reforestation There was her former partner Simon Bramwell,
efforts in the Amazon
ing to reach what we need to do in terms of the and around the world. who spent several weeks in a tree in Bristol to
global climate emergency,” Bianco says. “What Learn more about fight a proposed bus path back in 2015 (he was
Conservation International is doing is a drop in Australia’s bushfire unsuccessful), and Roger Hallam, an organic
emergency and how
the ocean of what is needed, but it’s important to you can help at world farmer who staged a hunger strike in 2017 to get
start somewhere.” ▪ animalprotection.org. King’s College London to divest from fossil fuel
COSTUMED PROTESTERS BLOCKED LONDON’S WATERLOO BRIDGE
DURING AN APRIL 2019 SPREE OF DISRUPTION.

companies (the school eventually agreed). Together, the group drafted a Extinction Rebellion’s founders believe that
series of ambitious goals: They wanted the UK government to acknowledge in order to be effective, they need to mobilize 3.5
that climate change had already begun, that it was getting worse, and that percent of the population, the number Harvard
we would see unprecedented change within our lifetime. They also asked political scientist Erica Chenoweth says is needed
for the creation of a Citizens’ Assembly on climate change and for legislation for civil resistance movements to succeed. At the
to help the country reach net zero—a state in which the emissions produced rate the organization is growing, they’re well on
by humans are balanced by emissions removed from the atmosphere—by their way. The U.S.-based Climate Emergency
2025. “So many of us who’ve been thinking about the ecological crisis have Fund, founded by documentary director Rory
AMAZON WILDFIRES (PREVIOUS SPREAD): JOÃO L AET; KOAL A: PETER PARKS/AFP/GET T Y

had this horrible creeping feeling, like nothing was getting done and it was Kennedy, celebrity philanthropic adviser Trevor
getting worse,” Bradbrook says. “It was a relief to feel the spirit of people Neilson, and philanthropist Aileen Getty, pledged
willing to be in the streets.” $350,000 to their campaign (the band Radiohead
Their formal—and loud—introduction to the world came in October 2018, is also a major donor). Their efforts have been
weeks after the UN’s Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change released publicly supported by Benedict Cumberbatch
a landmark report declaring the world had only 12 years left to make the and Emma Thompson. Stella McCartney even
changes needed to avoid catastrophic warming. Some 1,000 protesters (a total cast some of the members as models in her fall
that far exceeded expectations) descended on London’s Parliament Square 2019 campaign. “It’s been quite a thing to go from
for what they called a Declaration of Rebellion. Moving to a road outside the [15] people to 72 countries in a year,” Bradbrook
IMAGES; PROT ESTE RS: LE ON N EAL /GET T Y IMAGES.

Houses of Parliament, they linked arms, forming a massive blockade that says. There are now 485 chapters worldwide, and
stopped traffic for hours. It was a bold unveiling, and it worked: The group over 3,000 member arrests have been logged in
received massive media attention, and soon the name Extinction Rebellion the UK alone.
was synonymous with a new attitude toward climate change—one that ur- The most high-profile action to date took place
gently demanded action. over 11 days last April when members staged si-
Members capitalized on the early momentum. The following month, as multaneous protests throughout London, in-
many as 6,000 people—children, the elderly, and artist Gavin Turk among cluding a “die-in” (in which activists pretended
them—blocked five bridges crossing the river Thames, again halting traf- to be dead) at the Natural History Museum and a
fic. Eighty-five people were arrested, and the Guardian deemed it one of demonstration in Oxford Circus, where members
the largest acts of British civil disobedience in decades. Among the group’s parked themselves on a hot-pink sailboat in the
members, many of whom argue that law and order itself must be thrown middle of a street. Major environmental offenders
into chaos before governments will respond, getting arrested is seen as the were singled out: “Shell [is] morally bankrupt!”
ultimate badge of honor. yelled a member as he threw black paint across the

115
P E R S P E C T I V E S | Fashioning Change

oil corporation’s South Bank headquarters, while


others blocked entry to the building. Police offi-
cers dragged resisting protesters off the streets by
their limbs. As Metropolitan Police Commissioner
Cressida Dick remarked to the press, “I’ve been a
police officer for 36 years. I have never known an
operation, a single operation, in which over 700
people have been arrested.”
While some Londoners saw them as heroes,
others were enraged by the traffic jams caused
by the protests. But no matter which side of the
debate you stood on, the impact was clear: That
month—when Extinction Rebellion’s ramp-up
coincided with Greta Thunberg’s address to Par-
liament and the release of Sir Richard Attenbor-
ough’s BBC One documentary Climate Change:
The Facts—the British media referenced climate
EXTINCTION
change more times than in the previous five years. REBELLION
Less than a week after Extinction Rebellion’s April BY THE
actions, Parliament declared an environment NUMBERS

and climate emergency. Though the declaration


doesn’t require any specific action and is largely EXTINCTION REBELLION’S LOGO, AN HOURGLASS
WITHIN A CIRCLE REPRESENTING THE EARTH,
symbolic, it was a major indication that Extinction 11.5 MILLION SUGGESTS THAT THE TIME TO ACT IS FLEETING.

Rebellion had gotten the government’s attention.


Americans needed to
“They absolutely contributed to the decision of join Extinction Rebellion
the UK Parliament to declare a climate emergen- to reach what the While many in the U.S. are still unfamiliar
cy—no question,” says Genevieve Guenther, PhD, group deems critical with Extinction Rebellion, its message is gaining
mass: 3.5 percent of
the director of the New York City–based organi- the population. traction. In addition to staging the rebel caroling
zation End Climate Silence. “Their success is due display last December, New York members have
in part to the beauty of their vision: the clear moral £50,000=$62,200 also splashed the Wall Street Charging Bull statue
framework, the effectiveness of their protests, Donation from hedge with fake blood and protested in Times Square.
their strong messaging, and their theatricality. funder Sir Christopher In Washington, DC, members staged a hunger
They are [symptomatic] of this moment when Hohn, the largest gift strike in House Speaker Nancy Pelosi’s office, su-
from a single individual.
something [fundamental] is shifting.” perglued themselves to an entrance to the Capitol,
As with any rapidly growing movement, Ex- 40% and shut down a major street.
tinction Rebellion has made some missteps. Even The question on many members’ minds, how-
Of Americans believe
the group’s founders recognize that blocking climate change is a cri-
ever, is, Are they doing enough? Many within the
trains in the London Tube during rush hour in sis, according to a 2019 U.S. contingent, which includes a former jour-
October was a major mistake. And Hallam hor- Washington Post/Kaiser nalist for the Economist, students, consultants to
Family Foundation poll.
rified virtually everyone when he referred to the the UN, firefighters, and bankers, are balancing
Holocaust as “just another fuckery in human his- 10,000
climate actions with full-time jobs. And for some,
tory” during an interview with a German publica- even that doesn’t feel adequate. “A lot of us con-
tion. (He later said his statements were taken out Reported number of sider every day whether we should even still be in
police deployed during
of context.) The group, which is largely white and Extinction Rebellion’s our jobs,” says Ellen McSweeney, a member who
middle-class, also admits it has a diversity prob- April 2019 protests. works as a therapist in DC. “The science tells us
lem. And then there are the experts and writers that there are certain places we can’t come back
who believe Extinction Rebellion has overstated from. So should we be putting down [everything
some of its more catastrophic predictions. New else in our lives] because we’re in this really crit-
York magazine climate columnist David Wallace- ical window?”
Wells has quashed its claims that human extinc- But whether members are doing enough isn’t
tion is looming, at least “on any timescale [that] the point. They’re doing something. And that, re-
makes sense for us to think about,” though he ally, is the crux of the good Extinction Rebellion is
FL AG : SCOT T HEINS/ GET T Y IMAG ES.

acknowledges the group’s political value. Most bringing into the world. It offers a liberating salve
climate experts agree the goal of becoming net to an anxious populace that’s looking around,
zero by 2025 is unrealistic to the point of near seeing that the world is in crisis, and not know-
impossibility without a complete dismantling of ing what to do. “People were in a state of despair,
our current social structures and economy. “It’s LEARN MORE longing for something that looked like it could
not extreme to ask for it; it’s extreme to expect Get up to speed on make some [real] change happen,” says fashion
it could happen,” says Paul Hawken, an envi- Extinction Rebellion’s designer and founding member Clare Farrell.
latest efforts here
ronmentalist and founder of the climate change in the States at “Now they finally feel like they’ve been given
mitigation initiative Project Drawdown. extinctionrebellion.us. permission to act.” ▪

116
*These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration.
by invitation | tipsntrends, inc | 323-525-1700 These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.
PRESENTED BY
MY CARBON-
FREE LIFE
Can a self-
described creator
of “atmospheric
Armageddon” learn
to live more
sustainably? Alex
Kuczynski straps
on her skis and
tries to reduce
her environmental
footprint.
h, Greta Thunberg, I am in
awe of you. You are so pure!

O You upcycle. You inspired your


mom’s decision to give up her
international opera career to
reduce carbon emissions. And
you and your friends give me flygskam! I know D AY 1
that sounds like a word from that hilarious You- In order to leave no carbon footprint for a month, I have to tackle several
Tube video of the seal making human noises like problems. First, no car. I have a Chevy Tahoe, and while I don’t drive long
“L’egg!” and “Fibsh!,” but it’s a real thing—flyg- distances—from home to school to drop off my children; from home to the
skam is the social pressure not to fly because of mountain to ski or to the grocery store; the occasional trip to Boise, Idaho, to
the rising greenhouse gas emissions of the airline pilot gas-powered miniature race cars with my boys—I knew this would be
industry. Compared to you, Greta, I am a sloppy, a challenge. Going carless for a year could eliminate about 2.6 tons of carbon
meat-eating, nonrecycling, SUV-driving, inter- dioxide, according to a 2017 study from researchers at Lund University and the
national-flight-flying slob. I am my own personal University of British Columbia. So, in a month, I could save the world about a
atmospheric Armageddon. quarter of a ton of carbon dioxide.
Influenced by Greta—and by the galvaniz- I wake the boys and tell them they need to carpool or snowshoe to school.
ing voices of other young activists around the They look at me dumbfounded. “You’re not going to drive us to school?” they
world—I recently decided to make a pact with ask. “We can walk,” I say cheerfully, “and we can walk to church every Sunday,
myself. I would leave (or attempt to leave) a neu- too!” My 11-year-old isn’t having it. “I’m calling Child Protective Services,” he
tral carbon footprint for one month. (I did not says, deadpan. Undeterred, I rent a snow bike for the month. With its giant
include my family in this test. My sons can’t live textured wheels, I can get pretty much anywhere I want in town. I plan to put
without cheeseburgers.) This could be relatively Christmas lights on it if I go to the movies at night.
easy under certain circumstances—let’s say I lived
on a farm somewhere that is always warm—but I D AY 5
live in the ski town of Ketchum, Idaho. I am offered a plum assignment to fly to Los Angeles and research a story. But
What exactly is a carbon footprint? A number my carbon-footprint inner polar bear roars: “Your flying will kill me!” And it’s
of factors come into play: approximately how shameful how much I have flown in the last two years—more than six interna-
many miles you travel by car, bus, train, or air- tional flights each year, about five domestic, and at least one lucky ride on—oh,
plane; the energy usage in your home; how much Greta, you’re going to hate me even more than you already do!—a private jet,
you spend on shopping; and what you eat. (Go to which is enough to send me straight to hell. (Private jets cause considerably
carbonfootprint.com for fun and flygskam.) more environmental damage than commercial airlines do.)

C OL L AG E BY LI SA RYAN .
Fashioning Change | P E R S P E C T I V E S

D AY 1 0
My eating has had to change a bit. Research sug- is, I now have to eat apples every day. I know an apple a day keeps the doctor
gests that the most environmentally friendly diet away, but four apples a day makes my gums bleed, because I’m not getting
does not include red meat, the production of enough fresh leafy greens. I vow to steal some from our school’s greenhouse.
which uses a huge amount of feed, water, and land. My best carbon-free meal is a plate of grilled pollack, raised in the giant
On top of that, cow burps are responsible for two- aquariums inside Sun Valley Community School’s greenhouse, with butter
thirds of the ammonia released into the air due lettuce, also grown there. Unfortunately, to eat such a meal, you have to vol-
to human activity (like dairy farming), according unteer as a lunch lady, which is really hard work.
to Global Citizen, creating microclimates of acid
rain. Cattle and other domesticated ruminants D AY 1 5
are significant producers of the greenhouse gas Some friends are in from out of town and want to go skiing. I would assume
methane, according to Phys.org, contributing 37 riding a chairlift to ski down Bald Mountain would be a no-no—they are pow-
percent of the methane emissions resulting from ered by electricity with a diesel backup. But hey, lots of people hike up on special
human activity (so we’re not counting wild bison equipment for the cardio, and then ski down. No problem!
in Montana or wild sheep in the Idaho wilder- I tell my friends I will meet them at the top of Bald Mountain at 9 a.m., and
ness). Their grazing space takes up 26 percent of set off with my skis. I have strapped “skins” to the bottom of them and wear
the agricultural area of the planet. Beef takes 28 boots that allow me to lift my heel out of the binding so I can walk straight up.
times more land to produce than chicken or pork. It is 7 a.m., dark and cold. I put in AirPods so I can listen to Fat Joe and Remy
Unfortunately, as the earth’s population grows Ma sing “All the Way Up” on repeat. About an hour in, pink fingers of sunlight
and more people are lifted out of poverty, their caress the mountain, and although it is not even 10 degrees out, I am stripped
appetites change; the world now consumes seven down on top to just my long underwear and a wool half-zip. I am sending up a
times more animals than it did in 1950. plume of such intense steam, I imagine down below it looks like there’s some
The best diet, of course, is vegan. I call Jeanne sort of motile hot geyser moving up the hill.
Pare, MD, a New Jersey rheumatologist I met last I get to the top, soaked in sweat, breathless, my quad muscles cramped. “Hi,
year (on a Backroads biking trip with my children guys!” I am too tired to ski down. I take the lift.
to see the beaches of World War II—hooray for
us and carbon neutrality!). She’s a vegan and an D AY 2 0
avid cyclist, and she told me on that trip that a The list goes on. I replace all the lights in my home with LED lights. (Which
vegan diet is the most successful at lowering in- I hate.) I turn off and unplug my computer and other appliances when not in
flammation. “I always discuss the importance of use. (I do this already, but mostly because I am paranoid.) I dress sustainably.
a plant-based diet rich in whole grains, fruits, and Not an issue; I don’t need a single piece of new clothing for a whole month.
vegetables with my patients,” she tells me. A plant- I can handle a month. I upcycle, sending all my boys’ and my used clothing
based, low-fat, high-fiber diet has been shown to to be resold at ThredUp.com. I check my account at TheRealReal, where I
lower systemic inflammation, measured by mark- have sold some clothes and a pricey watch I associate with bad memories.
ers in the blood such as CRP, IL-6, and homocys- “The fashion industry is one of the world’s top-polluting industries at a time
teine. Diets high in fat and processed meats are when climate change is threatening the planet,” its website reads. Half of
associated with elevation of these markers. The all fast fashion produced is disposed of in less than a year, clogging landfills.
vegan diet was shown in one study to lower CRP Wasteful! But the sales of my Reed Krakoff stilettos, a Gucci skirt, and some
in just three weeks in patients with rheumatoid Christian Louboutin pumps have saved the world 812 liters of water and 252
arthritis. Longer term, a vegan diet is associated car miles. Maybe I will drive the boys to school tomorrow. They are getting
with a lower BMI, lower cholesterol levels, and an sick of the walk.
improvement in rheumatoid arthritis symptoms.
And it will help save the planet! D AY 3 0
Being vegan can, however, make it difficult to I come to the conclusion that the world is not set up for those who want to leave
obtain adequate amounts of calcium, vitamins D a carbon-neutral footprint. That’s a purity test very few of us can pass. What I
and B12, and essential fatty acids, and supplements did learn is that you can do several things to mitigate yours.
are usually necessary. I buy a bottle of B12 drops For your car: Perform routine maintenance; keep tires inflated to the ideal
and basically drink from it—along with a bottle of pressure; and combine short trips, because a warm engine runs more efficiently,
Geritol, the old people’s tonic I remember seeing and that saves gas. Drive friendly; aggressive driving habits like gunning the
in my grandmother’s medicine cabinet, which has engine, screeching around corners, and flooring the gas pedal are major fuel
lately reemerged as a kind of energy elixir for the wasters. Don’t idle, and please carpool.
CrossFit crowd. Eat no red meat. Try vegetarian, pescatarian, or vegan diets. Eating a veg-
Eating turns out to be my biggest challenge. etarian diet just one day per week for a year saves 1,160 miles of driving for a
The less food has to travel before it’s eaten, the year, according to one study from Carnegie Mellon University. Replace old,
less carbon is emitted. In the dead of winter in inefficient refrigerators. And recycle, recycle, recycle.
Idaho, eating 100 percent locally isn’t easy. The In the summer, I can try some of the more extreme and interesting ways
good news is that apples and citrus fruits last up to help save energy—like haybox cooking, where you heat your Dutch oven
to two months in the refrigerator, and potatoes in the stove long enough to get the cooking process started, and then take it
and root vegetables can last up to four months. I out of the oven and put it into a haybox (a pioneer-era contraption filled with
planned in advance, and by the end of November, hay), which you place in the sun so your meal can finish cooking. Or a solar box
I collected 100 apples from the trees in our yard. cooker, which uses only the power of the sun to cook your meal. Imagine a cake
That’s net-zero carbon footprint! The bad news baked by the sun! Even Greta Thunberg would love that. ▪

119
P E R S P E C T I V E S | Fashioning Change

M A R T H E: A REFERENDUM
What happens when climate change
collides with rapidly accelerating AI? In an
original work of dystopian fiction created
exclusively for ELLE, Joyce Carol Oates
conjures a harrowing vision of the future.
WELCOME TO OUR EARTH DAY 2169 For a mammal of her age, m a r t h e is considered a “highly attractive”
REFERENDUM! specimen, though in some quarters she has become loathed as the symbol of
For most of you, this is your first time gather- a “weak, moribund, predator species” whose artificially engineered survival
ing together in a public place. And for all of you, has strained the State’s financial resources.
this may be the gravest decision you will ever Yes, m a r t h e ’s eyes are intensely “blue”—and yes, the eyes are “open”—
make as AICitizen voters. but don’t be deceived that m a r t h e is aware of you.
On screens throughout the Great Hall, you are For you are observing m a r t h e in her hospital bed in intensive care
seeing a magnified image of the primate m a r t h e at a classified location, where she has been since March 2168 in a state of
in real time—yes, this is the notorious m a r t h e, physician-induced coma. Initially, m a r t h e ’s most recent liver transplant
the “last living member of her species,” aged 171. was rejected by her body, but since then it has been discovered that m a r t h e ’s
artificial heart and brain stem will soon require Fortunately, AICitizens are immune to the blandishments of natural
rebooting, her circulatory system will soon re- species and the dubious aesthetics of “beauty.” Otherwise such “beautiful”
quire a complete PlasmaInfusion, and a number species as gazelles, leopards, tigers, horses, tropical fish, dogs, cats, wild birds,
of her PlastiPlutonium bones will require replace- and butterflies of great variety dwelling in uninhabitable regions of Earth
ments, at prices far exceeding the budget allotted (much of Europe and North America, most of Asia and South America, and
under the Endangered Species Intervention Act. virtually all of Africa) would not have been allowed to lapse into extinction,
Indeed, the most durable of m a r t h e ’s ar- having failed to reproduce their kind without costly intervention by the State.
tificial organs has been her remarkably lifelike (Along with these problematic species, those subspecies, or “races,” of Homo
PlastaEpidermis. At the age of 171, m a r t h e has sapiens dwelling in such regions were also allowed to lapse into extinction,
a smooth and luminous “skin” that, at a little dis- though preserved, like other, popular animal species, as ingeniously crafted
tance at least, might be mistaken for the skin of a replicas displayed in zoo museums.)
human woman one-tenth her age; the PlastaHair Like others of her favored species, m a r t h e was the beneficiary of nu-
on m a r t h e ’s head remains a beautiful, thick merous transplants and artificial devices: hips, knees, lungs, kidneys, corneas,
russet red, more lustrous than the “natural” hair and eardrums, as well as liver, heart, and blood-bearing vessels. Having mar-
m a r t h e had in the prime of her youth. ried into an affluent class, m a r t h e was able to purchase elective surgery:
And there are those blue eyes!—not altogether “facelifts” and “face recontouring,” silicone implants, muscle transplants,
m a r t h e ’s original eyes, but (seductive) au- “living teeth” inserted in her jaws. At the age of 119, at the time of her sixteenth
thentic replicas. marriage, m a r t h e undertook the controversial procedure GenitaliaNew!
Though m a r t h e has become a poster child and may have had a (black market) uterine transplant, of which nothing
for sentimentalists who favor the protection of more is known.
the species that created artificial intelligence, first
as RobotHelpers, then as AICitizens, it should be
emphasized that m a r t h e was never a wholly
“natural” primate: She was one of 188 female
clones engineered by the NSI following the Cli-
mate Collapse Crisis of 2039, when fertility in Homo sapiens had failed to
her species first plummeted. Her harvested eggs
were fertilized in second-generation cloning tri-
reproduce “naturally” since the
als that gave birth to 14,000 human infants—but a Great Catastrophe of 2072.
chromosomal defect in the DNA resulted in early
deaths for most of them.
In addition, m a r t h e was a (volunteer) par-
ticipant in those controversial experiments of At the age of 168, however, m a r t h e suffered a series of mini-strokes;
the 2060s involving the artificial insemination of she would have died a natural death except for the intervention of the
“biologically natural” children in female uteruses, CreatorSpecies Protection Movement, which lobbied for radical neurosur-
following the general epidemic of male impo- gery to repair her damaged brain. Following this, m a r t h e was shameless-
tence; according to hospital records, m a r t h e ly exploited as a political icon on social media; no AICitizen has not been
gave birth to several “natural” children, unfortu- exposed to the (seductive) appeal of m a r t h e—“the last living member
nately born with rudimentary brains and defec- of her species.”
tive hearts, who had to be euthanized under the Others in m a r t h e ’s generation continued to die off one by one, includ-
State Eugenics Law. ing, in 2158, the last remaining Homo sapiens male, affectionately known
Still, m a r t h e was reportedly eager to as a d o n i s , who lived to the age of 143. This was viewed in the media as a
“try again at motherhood”—but her appeal was “tragic” turning point in evolution—but only if old-style sexual reproduction
A N IMAGE CINDY SHERMA N P OST ED ON IN STAGRA M ON NOVEMBE R 24, 2 019.

rejected. were still the norm, which it was not.


The photograph you are now seeing is In fact, Homo sapiens had failed to reproduce “naturally” since the Great
m a r t h e in 2023, at the time of the “volunteer” Catastrophe of 2072, when brain-devouring amoeba, thriving in the high
inseminations, when she was 25 years old. By temperatures of global warming, learned to alter their DNA to withstand an-
Homo sapiens’ aesthetic standards, m a r t h e tibiotics, with devastating results for the species; the plummeting birth rate
is considered “beautiful,” “desirable.” Millions of never righted itself, despite heroic efforts to reverse it. (It was at this time
years of organic evolution bent upon the grim and that RobotHelpers were upgraded to AICitizens, to take on the burdens and
ceaseless task of reproducing mammalian species responsibilities of running the aging “human” State; gradually, AICitizens,
in the old, physical way of sexual intercourse equipped with super-computer brains and none of the vulnerabilities of a
yielded this specimen of a sexually desirable yet species encased in flesh and blood, took over completely, though contrac-
“sweet-tempered” human female: the apotheosis tually bound to “serve” Homo sapiens.)
of what was called femininity. In contrast with the fate of Homo sapiens, the hardiest of organic spe-
At the time of this photograph, m a r t h e was cies have not needed extraordinary interventions in order to survive—rats,
still in possession of her original organs, including crocodiles, groundhogs, Tasmanian devils, venomous snakes, sea creatures,
her flawless “Caucasian” skin and lustrous blue and, above all, insects; these continue to reproduce, in mutated forms, in
eyes that seem, across the abyss of years, to be toxic landscapes outside Climate Control Towers, where primates could
alive with something like hope. That is indeed not survive for more than a few minutes and where even AICitizens (with
a natural “sweet smile” intended to signal to the precisely calibrated computer brains) begin to corrode and disintegrate after
viewer—Love me! Please. a few weeks’ exposure to the elements. CONTINUED ON PAGE 172

121
C U L T U R E | Director’s Spotlight

EMERALD
FENNELL
Meet the triple threat
behind Promising
Young Woman,
spring’s buzziest
revenge thriller.
By Julie Kosin

FENNELL (CENTER) ON THE SET OF PROMISING YOUNG WOMAN.

icture this: A dozen or so doughy moment they touch her slack body, she reveals her sobriety—and unleashes

WALL ACE/FOCUS FEATURES; FKA T WIGS: MAT THEW STONE; BRODERICK AND PARKER: LIT TLE FANG PHOTO.
FENN ELL: DAN D OP ERA LSKI FO R VARIE T Y/SHUT T ERSTO CK; P ROMISI NG YO UN G WOM AN: ME RIE WE IS MILL ER
male waistlines clad in button- her own brand of bitter revenge to right the wrongs of the past.

P downs and belted chinos, un-


dulating with jerky abandon to
the electronic chirps of Char-
“[While writing the script], things came to me as little what-would-I-dos,”
Fennell says. “Our dating culture says that picking people up who are really,
really drunk is fine. But if I went to a club and pretended to be incredibly
li XCX’s “Boys.” The phrase drunk and somebody picked me up, and if I revealed that I wasn’t drunk
“instantly iconic” is tired, yes, but no other de- when they were undressing me, would they be freaked out? And if they
scriptor feels appropriate for Promising Young would, doesn’t that sort of imply that they know—that we all know—that
Woman’s opening scene. “I wanted to shoot it’s not cool?”
ordinary men like women are shot,” says writ- The writer-director’s affinity for marrying the witty and morbid has led
er-director Emerald Fennell of her debut fea- many to compare her to her friend and fellow Brit Phoebe Waller-Bridge,
ture-length film. “We still can’t turn on the TV who tapped Fennell to cowrite season two of the quirky spy thriller Killing
without seeing the same old bump-and-grind, Eve. (In her ever-dwindling spare time, Fennell also acts, most recently play-
so let’s turn it around.” Laugh-out-loud funny, ing Camilla Shand, now Duchess of Cornwall, in the third and upcoming
the scene wraps viewers in the cozy embrace of fourth season of The Crown.)
an inside joke before delivering the film’s first Fennell credits Waller-Bridge with giving her the confidence to take on
line: a scathing “Fuck her” from one of the bros, bigger projects like Promising Young Woman. In truth, it’s astonishing that
grumbling about a colleague who objected to it took two-and-a-half years into the #MeToo movement for such a film to
holding client meetings at a men-only golf club. exist, but it’s much more than a timely revenge thriller. On the one hand,
“This is how business is done.” the film is born of a culture afraid to ruin the life of a young man who was
So begins the story of Cassie (Carey Mulli- “just a kid who made a mistake,” and jam-packed with lines lifted straight
gan), a med-school dropout still reeling from a from countless brunch conversations. On the other, it’s a hell of a lot of fun.
traumatic incident involving her best friend. Cas- With pastel-hued sets and a mid-aughts soundtrack, the movie plays like a
sie spends her days semicomatose, going through love letter to a generation that grew up on Paris Hilton and Dateline reruns,
the motions at her coffee-shop job or hiding out and it does so without a drop of irony. “A lot of things that are popular with
in her childhood bedroom. At night, she haunts young women are dismissed, whether it’s a manicure, a fuzzy top, or Britney
the local bars, pretending to black out in order Spears,” Fennell says. “Caring about your nails does not mean you couldn’t
to get so-called nice guys to take her home. The strangle someone with your hands if you wanted to.” ▪
News | C U L T U R E

READ WATC H

THEPLOT
AGAINSTAMERICA
In HBO’s adaptation of the 2004 Philip Roth novel
(March 16), David Simon and Ed Burns create a period
piece that feels disturbingly modern in its depiction of
how quickly democracy can dissolve. Seen through the
lens of a Jewish family in Newark, New Jersey, portrayed
by Zoe Kazan, Winona Ryder, and Morgan Spector, the
six-part miniseries conjures a world in which Charles
Lindbergh runs against and defeats President Franklin
D. Roosevelt in the 1940 presidential election. The series
explores how fascism and anti-Semitism can turn a
country against its values and into a state of chaos in an
imaginary reality that’s sadly not difficult to imagine.—AG

Death in Her Hands Wow, No Thank You. Tales of Two Planets


(Penguin Press; (Penguin Books; SEE
(Vintage Books;
April 21) March 31) April 21)
Ottessa Moshfegh
follows her beloved
Samantha Irby’s bril-
liant cultural insight is
In this eye-opening an-
thology about climate
THREE
2018 title, My Year of
Rest and Relaxation,
on full display in a new
collection of candid
change, an impressive
cast of contributors
CAN’T-MISS
with a fresh take on
the archetypal murder
essays recounting her
transition from life as a
including Edwidge
Danticat, Mohammed
FILMS
mystery. The novel single person working Hanif, and Margaret The Climb
tracks an isolated in a Chicago veterinary Atwood reflect on how A toxic friendship
widow’s descent into hospital to a married the grim horror of cycles through betrayal,
madness after finding woman in a house with our current ecological trauma, and forgiveness
a mysterious note in a garden in Kalamazoo, reality is being felt in this kooky indie
the woods. Michigan. These days around the world. debut by the writing and
she’s getting fan notes —ADRIENNE GAFFNEY acting team of Michael
from Abbi Jacobson Angelo Covino and Kyle
and working for Hulu, Marvin. It follows a hap-
but her eerily relatable less loser (Covino, who
approach to life also directs) grieving
remains intact. the death of the woman
he stole from his best
friend (Marvin), who
just wants to settle
ST R EAM
down with his new girl- AT T E N D
friend, played by Gayle
MRS.AMERICA Rankin in a delightfully
ornery performance. PLAZA SUITE
The thorny—and still ongoing—battle to pass the Equal Rights Amendment is given (March 20) Sarah Jessica Parker
prestige screen treatment in Mrs. America, a limited series premiering April 15 (FX on and Matthew Broderick
Hulu). Notorious antifeminist Phyllis Schlafly, the leader of a conservative movement Never Rarely Some- are the definition of
opposed to the ERA, becomes a bit more palatable when portrayed by Cate Blan- times Always Broadway couple goals:
chett. Uzo Aduba and Rose Byrne round out the all-star cast as Shirley Chisholm and An essential new entry They met through the
Gloria Steinem in this prescient retelling.—AG in the coming-of-age theater scene in the
genre, this tight drama 1990s and played
tracks the quiet fear opposite each other
of 17-year-old Autumn in How to Succeed in
H EA R (newcomer Sidney Flan- Business Without Really
igan, a revelation) as she Trying. Nearly 23 years
encounters misinforma- of marriage later, they’re
COACHELLA tion, Draconian laws, reteaming onstage
Music festival season kicks and a bus trek to New for Neil Simon’s Plaza
into high gear on April 10 York City in pursuit of an Suite, directed by
with a Coachella lineup led abortion. (March 13) John Benjamin Hickey.
by headliners Rage Against Parker and Broderick
the Machine, Travis Scott, Lost Girls will take on the acting
and Frank Ocean. But be sure When the police fail to challenge of playing
not to gloss over this year’s thoroughly investigate a three different couples
particularly talent-packed group sex worker’s disappear- staying at the Plaza
of second-liners: Megan Thee ance, her mother (Amy Hotel. In an Instagram
Stallion, whose star just won’t Ryan) takes matters into post announcing the
stop rising; FKA twigs (left), her own hands—and project, Parker gushed
who dropped her awe-inspiring helps uncover the work about how excited she
second album, Magdalene, this of a serial killer hunting was to work with “an
fall; and Lana Del Rey, whose vulnerable women— actor whom I get to love
Norman Fucking Rockwell! has in this gripping mystery onstage and off.” The
already ascended to classic from director Liz show opens March 13 at
status, are all fully deserving of Garbus. (March 13) the Hudson Theatre.
a larger font size.—AG —JULIE KOSIN —VÉRONIQUE HYLAND

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N A T U R E
When it comes to the climate crisis, we all have a role to play. Perhaps no
one understands that more than these entertainers-turned-activists, who
are harnessing their platforms and projects to take action. The powerhouse
women featured here span generations and genres, but one thing firmly
unites them: their passion for our planet. This month, we go behind the
scenes of Jane Fonda’s bold new protest movement—and the night she
spent in jail. Rosario Dawson shares how growing up in a family of squatters
inspires her work today. Madelaine Petsch tells us how she makes going vegan
easy. And Grimes tells us how she’s making environmentalism fun. Different
tactics, different approaches, but the same goal—securing the earth’s future.

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F
I
R
E
S
T
ast Labor Day weekend, Jane Fonda LaRouche, an infamous fascist hatemonger who used his
was sitting around in Big Sur with pals computer business profits to pay for antigay protests, Fonda

A
Rosanna Arquette and Catherine Keen- tried to think of what business she could start to fund the
er feeling “very depressed that I wasn’t causes she cared about. She thought about starting a restau-

F O R WA R D A R T I S T S ( G R I M E S ) ; M A N I C U R E S B Y A L E X J A C H N O F O R T O M F O R D B E A U T Y; S E T D E S I G N B Y J A C K F L A N A G A N AT T H E WA L L G R O U P ; P R O D U C E D B Y N AT H A L I E A K I YA AT K R A N K Y P R O D U K T I O N S .
L

H A I R B Y J O N AT H A N H A N O U S E K F O R L’ O R É A L PA R I S ( F O N D A ) , M A K I KO N A R A F O R O R I B E ( D AW S O N ) , M A R C M E N A F O R O R I B E ( P E T S C H ) , A N D C H A N E L C R O K E R F O R R + C O ( G R I M E S ) ; M A K E U P B Y D AV I D
doing enough about the climate cri- rant, but after someone advised her not to go into an industry

D E L E O N AT A . S P I E G E L M A N M A N A G E M E N T ( F O N D A ) , E R M A H N O S P I N A AT A . S P I E G E L M A N M A N A G E M E N T ( D AW S O N ) , E L I E M A A L O U F F O R TA R T E C O S M E T I C S ( P E T S C H ) , A N D N ATA S H A S E V E R I N O AT
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sis.” She’d already stopped using single- she didn’t understand, she thought, “There’s only one thing I
use plastics, started driving an elec- understand, and that is working out.” With her bouncy ring-
tric car, and cut back on meat, but she lets and tiny leotard-clad figure, Fonda showed people how

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still yearned to make a bigger impact. to target their inner-thigh muscles—while raising $17 million
“When you’re famous, you have this in- to fight poverty, racial injustice, and corporate malfeasance.
credible potential platform, but how do Despite her long history of fighting for change, Fonda says
E
you use it?” Fonda says. And then she re- it is only now as an octogenarian that she senses her strength
alized, “I have to put myself on the line.” as an activist. She’s been frank—in her memoir My Life So Far
So she called up Annie Leonard, the executive director of and in a 2018 HBO documentary, Jane Fonda in Five Acts—
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Greenpeace USA, and told her she was going to camp out in that it’s taken her a long time to feel she’s fully present and
front of the White House. “She said, ‘Well, that’s great that living her life for herself. Married to three different powerful
you’re willing to do that, but it’s illegal,’” says Fonda, laughing men over the decades—French director Roger Vadim, who
over a hummus platter one February weekend afternoon at directed her in the 1960s sci-fi spoof Barbarella; Hayden; and
The Wing in Los Angeles, where she’s filming the seventh and media mogul Ted Turner—Fonda says she often felt unsure of
final season of Netflix’s Grace and Frankie. Fonda was unde- herself and preferred to follow others. “I always felt like the
terred, but “didn’t want to be some aging movie star moving student,” she says. “This is the first time that I am the leader.”
to DC” and butting in on existing activists, so she reached out After her fourth arrest this fall, the endlessly glamorous
to environmental organizations and students who, inspired actress had to spend the night in jail. While Fonda is matter-
by Greta Thunberg, had been protesting on Fridays, wonder- of-fact in saying she’s far more fortunate than most—“I’m
ing where the adults were. Someone told her to “see if the white and I’m famous and I think orders came down from the
students will welcome you, and if they do, go every Friday,” attorney general to handle me with kid gloves”—it isn’t easy
Fonda says. “So right away, I went to DC.” spending the night in jail when you’re in your eighties. She
She was greeted with open arms, and for 14 weeks be- used her red coat to soften the metal of her bunk and man-
ginning in October, Fonda and a diverse coalition of groups aged to sleep through the sounds of fellow inmates sobbing,
staged weekly protests in front of the Capitol to pressure screaming, and rattling the bars of their cells. “It’s very hard in
leaders to address climate change. She dubbed her movement life to find a way to align your body with your deepest values,
“Fire Drill Fridays,” and soon Fonda and a host of famous and that’s what civil disobedience can do,” says Fonda, build-
friends, including costar Lily Tomlin and Ted Danson, were ing to a rapturous crescendo when she describes the way her
arrested and herded into police vans, wrists zip-tied. renewed purpose makes her feel. “Even though you’re being
Long ago, Fonda made an important calculation about handcuffed and put in a situation where you have absolutely
her celebrity: People were going to watch her, and she could no control, it’s like stepping in to yourself. I have chosen to
use their attention to promote her agenda. For decades, she’s put myself in this position where I lose all power because of
spoken out against the status quo and made headlines for something I believe in. And it’s incredible.”
agitating against authority, be it opposition to the Vietnam Her resolve is greater than ever as she expands Fire Drill
War or social inequality. Her mug shot from a Cleveland jail Fridays, first to the West Coast, beginning with a protest in
in 1970, fist raised and hair shagged, became an iconic symbol front of City Hall in downtown L.A. in early February, and
of people power and feminism. soon, the nation. After Grace and Frankie wraps in July, Fonda
Even the Jane Fonda workout—her quintessential-1980s says she will take a two-year hiatus from acting to tour the
exercise videos that became a global aerobics phenomenon— country and get out the climate vote. She says she’s a good
was created to raise funds for an organization she helped messenger because, well, she’s old. “I’m 82, which is very
start with her then-husband, political activist Tom Hayden, useful because people say, ‘Well, gosh, if she can do it, I can
to end corporate control of the economy. Inspired by Lyndon do it, too.’”—claire hoffman

A mug shot 50 years ago put J A N E F O N D A on the map as


an activist. But it’s her current fight for the planet that has her feeling
like she’s fully stepped into her power.

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Jacket, $3,590, trousers,
$990, Alexander McQueen.
Bodysuit, Falke, $180.
Earrings, $3,400, rings, from
$900,Tiffany & Co. Pumps,
Christian Louboutin, $694.
A childhood spent squatting in an abandoned building primed
R O S A R I O D AW S O N to live a sustainable life. Now she’s channeling her
unique history into environmental action.

lot of famous people become environ- organization she cofounded to encourage civic engagement
mental activists. But very few of them among Latinx voters, makes clear the ways in which our
come to the cause the way Rosario Daw- changing climate impacts such communities directly. She’s

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son did. When she was six, Dawson and also worked on campaigns to encourage people to start their
her parents moved into an abandoned own gardens, and volunteered with an organization that trains
tenement in New York City’s East Vil- the formerly incarcerated and gang-affiliated to install solar
lage. It had no hot water or electricity. panels and to silkscreen reusable grocery bags, which Dawson
They were squatters—scrapping and and other activists distributed at stores in Los Angeles ahead
salvaging and building a home out of of the statewide ban on single-use plastics.
found materials from around the city. Last year, Dawson produced and appeared in the second
When someone put a chair out on the season of The North Pole, a web series set in Oakland, California,
curb, her family would stop to see if it that deals explicitly with issues like climate change and gentri-
could be rehabbed or repurposed in some way. As a little girl, fication. It’s unlike other narratives we’ve seen on this subject
“I knew about Sheetrock and reusing nails,” she says. “It was in popular culture—and that’s the point. Too often, “we don’t
often about necessity, but even then, it made sense—if it’s not include a lot of communities in the conversation that we could,”
broken, we can use it, and if it is, we can fix it.” she says. “It tends to be very white and affluent.”
Her mother was an activist, attending rallies and marches Dawson is fluent in the politics and practicalities of cli-
for progressive issues. Soon Dawson was taking up causes of mate change—she recently told the Washington Post that she
her own. “My very first campaign was to save trees when I was considering going back to college to learn “regenerative
was 10 years old,” she says. “I made a bunch of posters because farming and soil practices to capture carbon”—and speaks
I wasn’t thinking about it so clearly.” about such topics with the force and urgency of a presiden-
She never left that thrifty, eco-conscious mentality behind. tial candidate at a debate who’s just been told she’s out of
For example, Dawson just bought a new property on the East time. So it’s no surprise she has said running for office is on
Coast, and some of the surrounding trees need to be removed her bucket list.
due to weather damage. “We’re turning them into furniture,” When we spoke in late January, Dawson was deep in pro-
she says. (Her dream home would be something totally off duction on a new, yet-unnamed project, but was hoping to
the grid, with geothermal heating, where she could grow get a free weekend so she could make it to Washington, DC,
her own food.) She eats a mostly plant-based diet these days, for Fire Drill Fridays, the weekly climate change protests on
but she’s tried raw and vegan diets as well. She didn’t buy a Capitol Hill where Jane Fonda and her famous friends keep
car until she was 26—a 2006 Prius that she swears she still getting arrested. “I am always down to get arrested for a good
G

owns (“I don’t need a fancy big car to get from here to there,” cause,” she says. Her boyfriend, you may have heard, is New
she says). “I probably could get rid of more things,” Dawson Jersey senator (and former presidential candidate) Cory Book-
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admits, but “I tend to hold on to things because it stresses me er. “I know very well he’d like to be out there [protesting] with
out to imagine them ending up in a landfill.” She also knows me,” she says. But Booker, who’s been vegan for many years,
personal choices, on their own, aren’t going to solve our cli- “is fighting the good fight on the inside.” Dawson adds, “He’s
E

mate crisis. “We have to put pressure on companies and the very, very concerned and scared that there isn’t more urgency
government, because sweeping change is necessary.” around [climate change].”
Her activism isn’t a side interest—it’s a central part of And that is exactly what Dawson brings to the fight.
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almost every project she takes on. In 2018, she executive- “The reality is, the people who have been making a lot of
produced and narrated The Need to Grow, a documentary decisions that are corrupting our planet are able to do so
based on the terrifying premise that we have only 60 years’ because more of us aren’t involved,” she says. “It’s beautiful
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worth of farmable topsoil left on earth (don’t panic: The to me how humans acclimate, but there’s a danger in that,
movie also outlines solutions to deal with the problem). Her too, because we can’t just adjust—we have to do something
African fashion line, Studio 189, uses recycled fabrics and other to stop this!” Dawson’s out there doing all she can, hoping
sustainable materials, like pineapple leather. Voto Latino, the you’ll join her. —marin cogan
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Dress, Loewe, $4,450.
Earrings, Tiffany &
Co., $850. Boots,The
Way We Wore, L.A.
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n Riverdale, the CW’s moody and melo- Petsch knows from her own childhood that pushing

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dramatic send-up of the Archie Comics your beliefs down someone’s throat isn’t going to bring them

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(which recently wrapped its fourth sea- around to your point of view. Growing up nonreligious, she

S
son), the character Cheryl Blossom is says that some of her religious peers would try to sway her
known for being extremely stylish and to their way of thinking, and the conversations would leave
incredibly vindictive. Though in some her feeling like she’d done something wrong. “That’s really
respects she’s a misunderstood survi- stuck with me through my adult life,” she says. “Now when
vor of trauma, Cheryl is also a revenge I want to spread a message about the environment or about
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mastermind capable of torturing her veganism, I try to do it with positivity and by giving people
perceived enemies. Which is especially the information to make a decision for themselves.”
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wild considering the woman who plays She also wants to make veganism fun. In one of her You-
Cheryl, 25-year-old Madelaine Petsch, is a notably gentle Tube videos, she and boyfriend Travis Mills attend a vegan
soul. Points of comparison: Cheryl Blossom once donned a food festival, which she says is her version of Coachella; in
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cherry-red gas mask in order to roach-bomb her own mother another, she gleefully prepares vegan cinnamon rolls. “Peo-
and then lock her in a makeshift bunker (to be fair, her mom ple make it seem like it’s so difficult,” Petsch says. “I want to
pretty much deserved it). Petsch, on the other hand, is a life- teach people how positive and easy it is to be vegan—I don’t
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long vegan who wants to help others shift to a plant-based diet want to make it seem like it’s this big feat.” Sure, there are
in a way that’s inspiring and approachable. Cheryl Blossom downsides. It can sometimes be hard to eat vegan while trav-
once dropped an active beehive on the desk of the school eling. “I had a really hard time eating in Paris,” she says. (And
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principal. Petsch would never hurt a bee. See? Very different. who wouldn’t, with all that butter.) But she makes it work by
“I was lucky to grow up with two incredibly environmen- packing protein bars and green powder in her suitcase, and
tally aware parents, who ingrained these thoughts in me,” she always manages to find something. “There’s nowhere
says Petsch, who grew up in Washington State, eating out you can go that doesn’t have a plate of steamed vegetables,”
of her family’s garden. When she was three, her dad taught she says, laughing.
her “about the little numbers on the bottom of plastics” and Of course, Petsch acknowledges that some people think
which to avoid. In grade school, she was teased for bringing going animal-free in their own lives would be nearly impossi-
her lunch in a reusable container instead of a plastic baggie. ble, and others are turned off by the militant attitude of some
Today, she still tries to use as little plastic as she can, taking members of the vegan community. “It’s a movement that can
simple steps like not using the vegetable bags at the grocery be a little bit radical at times,” she says. “And yes, I believe we
store. “It’s crazy to me that people still use plastic utensils,” should be radical, but I also believe we should be trying to
she says. “It’s not that hard to just bring your own utensils in convince as many people as possible to join the vegan move-
your purse!” And yes, she has strong opinions about plastic ment.” She’s said she’s even occasionally felt “shunned” by
straws, too: “Just drink out of the glass—it’s very easy. What her fellow vegans for attending fashion shows of brands that
are you worried about? Smudging your lipstick? It’ll be fine.” use animal products. “It’s things like that that make people
But Petsch wants to make sure that her strong opinions afraid of being vegan,” she explains. “And even if it’s just one
never translate into preachiness toward her fans—no small vegan meal a day, why wouldn’t we be trying to incorporate
consideration, considering she has more than 18 million In- more people and make them feel comfortable?”
stagram followers and over 5 million subscribers to her You- Aside from not eating animals, Petsch says she worries
Tube channel. And with great social media reach comes great about the extinction of certain species and ballooning car-
responsibility. That’s why she’s a board member of the Envi- bon footprints. “I get scared about what my children and
ronmental Media Association, a nonprofit that works with the grandchildren are going to see,” she says. That’s why she’s
entertainment industry to encourage eco-friendly practices. doing her part to get more people to adopt environmentally
“They give you the tools you need to be able to talk about any aware habits. But still, there’s one character who may never
and every issue involving the environment,” Petsch says. “If be convinced: “I think Cheryl is probably a carnivore, unfor-
you use that messaging, you can have such a positive reach.” tunately.”—cady drell

Riverdale’s resident baddie MAD E L A I N E P E T S C H


takes us inside her plant-based lifestyle.

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Jumpsuit (made of
biodegradable
cotton), Everybody
.World, $300. Her
own jewelry and
Dr. Martens boots.
After a period of crippling climate anxiety, G R I M E S channeled her stress into
an album designed to make saving our warming planet seem cool.

ou could say Grimes was born to be cool” through the point of view of a supervillain is a risky artis-
an environmentalist. When she was a tic maneuver, and c expects to be misunderstood. “People are
baby, her mom strapped her to her back pretty mad at me most of the time anyway, so I’m down with

Y
and then fastened herself to a tree to getting my hands dirty,” she says.
prevent it from being cut down. These Lately, c’s ideas have been breaching the limits of her
days, the Canadian musician, who no musical career. She and her creative partner, Mac Boucher,
longer goes by Grimes in her personal have been exploring the album’s characters in a related comic
life but by her nickname, c (the initial book, “but I don’t think it’s ready for daylight at the moment,”
of her first name, Claire, styled in low- she says, laughing. c’s also been thinking about fashion—
ercase italics), has annihilation on the which she “really, really loves and cares about”—in terms of
brain. Last year, she declared her inten- sustainability. “It’s scary and kind of disturbing to realize this
tion to “kill Grimes soon” in a “public thing that’s a huge passion of yours is so destructive for the
execution.” In February, she released environment,” she says. “It should definitely be at the top of
her concept album Miss Anthropocene, centered on an anthro- everyone’s mind to solve this.”
pomorphic goddess of climate change—a supervillain who Her solution: digital fashion, specifically using augmented
sings that “imminent annihilation sounds so dope.” reality to “wear” clothing items online. “The phone is pretty
c has always been interested in politics, and the environment good at face mapping, and it will have pretty good body map-
has long been a theme in her music. Rather presciently, in 2010 ping and motion capture soon,” c says. “When that technology
she named her debut album, Geidi Primes, after the fictional is available, you’ll be able to have a dress mapped onto your
planet in Dune—a 1965 science-fiction novel, and one of her body.” Think of it as Instagram’s face filters for your body, or
favorite books—that has been destroyed by heavy industry. But paper dolls 2.0. “Digital fashion won’t replace real fashion—you
last year, c went through a six-month period where she couldn’t can’t wear it out in the world—but I do think a lot of fashion
engage with the news about the state of the world without exists just for social media,” she says. As fashion becomes more
feeling paralyzed by guilt and anxiety. “I needed to zone out,” environmentally friendly, it is also likely to become more ex-
c says. “It was becoming too painful for my mental health.” pensive, which is another problem digital fashion could solve.
She knew that turning a blind eye was no way to confront “If you could sell a digital coat or dress for, like, $2, it would
the climate crisis, though, so she focused on making it more actually end up democratizing fashion,” c says.
palatable. She thought of Greta Thunberg’s appeal (“She’s like In the real world, c is committed to recycling clothes and
a kid, so it’s so much less painful to hear [from her] than from repeating outfits. “This whole thing where you have a different
a scientist,” c says) and of the villains in her favorite comics, outfit for every red carpet—we’re glamorizing extreme con-
and soon, an idea was born. “I thought it’d be cool to make sumption,” she says. “There have definitely been times when I
[climate change] a cartoon to make it more digestible,” c says. wore the same thing for a few different events, and people were
“This sounds supercynical, but when it comes to issues in so- like, ‘Oh my God, Grimes wore the same dress again,’ and I was
ciety, branding and having good spokespeople does help.” So like, ‘It’s good to wear the same dress again, guys.’”
she brainstormed who her version of the Joker would be—like, Recently, c confirmed she’s pregnant. And although she has
S

“Who’s the Heath Ledger of climate change?” not confirmed if her boyfriend Elon Musk, the cofounder and
In Miss Anthropocene, c creates a pantheon of new gods for CEO of Tesla and SpaceX, is the father, she will say that their
I

our social ills: plastic, fast fashion, and social media, among oth- shared passion for the environment brought them together,
ers. “I’ve had a lot of friends die from opioid-related causes,” she and that the fate of the planet factored into her decision to
says, “so there’s a goddess of opioids, a goddess of deep fakes.…” have a child. “It definitely comes into your mind,” she says.
R

Each goddess gets her own song; listening to them may require “With nuclear war, artificial intelligence, and climate change
a sophisticated understanding of irony. “It’s totally possible looming…we’ve become so technologically advanced that we
that I’m doing a counterproductive, negative thing, but my fan might actually end our own civilization.” It’s “freaky,” she says,
E

base is pretty woke in general,” c says. “I don’t feel a particular but she remains optimistic—and, if nothing else, procreating is
fear that anyone will hear it and be like, ‘Wow, climate change great motivation: “Having a kid makes me want to work harder
N

rules.’” Still, flipping the narrative by “making climate change to make the world better.”—carina chocano
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134
Dress, Givenchy, $3,365.
Rings,Tiffany & Co.,
from $1,800. For details,
see Shopping Guide.
THE SUN-
BLEACHED
LANDSCAPE
O F D E AT H
VA L L E Y
PROVIDES
THE PERFECT
BACKDROP
F O R S P R I N G ’S
MOST
EXUBERANT
FA S H I O N S .

PHOTOGRAPHED
BY COLE SPROUSE.
S T Y L E D BY
N ATA S H A R O Y T.

Dress, Etro, $3,750.


Hoop earrings,
Jennifer Fisher, $525.
Sandals, JW Anderson
(worn throughout).
S H I F T I N G

S
Top, $2,290, skirt,
$9,000, necklace,
Proenza Schouler.
Gown,
Gucci,
$5,500.
Necklace,
Bottega
Veneta,
$5,100.
Top, $895, pants,
$1,395, Giorgio Armani.
Bandeau top (worn
underneath), Emporio
Armani. Hat, Prada, $850.

140
Top, skirt,
Chanel.
Dress,
Dior,
$6,900.
Necklace,
Bottega
Veneta,
$5,100.
Top, $3,850,
pantashoes,
$1,250,
Balenciaga.
Earrings,
Jennifer
Fisher, $525.
Dress, Celine
by Hedi Slimane.
BEAUTY TIP
Stay sleek with
Garnier Whole
Blends Smoothing
Oil with Coconut
Oil & Cocoa Butter
Extracts ($7),
which prevents
frizz and flyaways.
Coat, $6,440,
gown, $1,680,
Rick Owens.
Jacket, $3,680,
skirt, $2,130, Prada.
Sandals, Valentino
Garavani, $995.
BEAUTY TIP
Sunset shades
make for dreamy
eye colors. Try
Inspirer from the
Maybelline New
York Nudes of New
York Eyeshadow
Palette ($14).
H A I R B Y L U K E C H A M B E R L A I N F O R O R I B E ; M A K E U P B Y C I A R A O ’ S H E A AT L G A M A N A G E M E N T ; M O D E L : L U C A N G I L L E S P I E AT T H E
L I O N S N Y; S E T D E S I G N B Y B R YA N P O R T E R AT O W L A N D T H E E L E P H A N T ; P R O D U C E D B Y PA U L P R E I S S AT P R E I S S C R E AT I V E .

& Gabbana.
Trench coats,

Pants, Zadig &


Voltaire, $328.
Chesnais, $545.
bra, $945, Dolce

Ear cuff, Charlotte

147
Gown,Valentino.
Sandals,Valentino
Garavani,$995.
For details, see
Shopping Guide.
Photographed by A R T H U R E L G O R T . Styled by B E T H F E N T O N .

With a buzzy new role on the streaming platform Quibi and a rumored pregnancy
with husband Joe Jonas, the former Queen in the North has a clear place
in Hollywood’s new royal court. But don’t let her worldwide fame fool you: As Mike Sager
discovers, the wisecracking, refreshingly irreverent Brit is anything but a princess.
Sophie Turner wears Louis
Vuitton throughout. For details,
see Shopping Guide.
Speed is the last thing on Sophie’s mind as she sits down for
yet another makeup tweak at her ELLE shoot in Venice Beach.
It is just past 3 p.m., and the photo session, featuring a range of
new looks from Louis Vuitton (Turner is a friend of the house),
has been going since 9 a.m. As a makeup artist uses a fine brush
to color Turner’s eyelids a shade of electric blue, a production
assistant appears with some fortifying cookies. As it happens,
almost everyone in the room is a native of England. Talk turns
to the subject of comfort food.
“Cheese and Branston pickle sandwiches, with crisps,”
Turner sings, meaning potato chips.
“Freddo bars! Weetabix! Flake bars! Twirls!” adds another.
“Ready Brek!” says the makeup artist.
“Galaxy hot chocolate,” intones Turner, almost worshipfully.
“And any sausage. Sausage is not the same over here as it is in
England. And fish and chips! You cannot get good fish and chips
The Queen in the North is sitting regally before a lighted mirror here! It’s a crime, it really is.”
in the kitchen of a luxurious house in Venice Beach, California. Finally, it’s time for the next setup. We proceed in a single
Outside the large front windows, a river of humanity line out the side door—a production assistant in the lead, fol-
streams past on the Strand—walkers and runners and riders lowed by Turner, her publicist, her makeup artist, her hairdress-
of all manner of wheeled conveyance. Across a wide expanse er, the hairdresser’s assistant, and me. At the back of the house,
of fine sand lies the Pacific Ocean, a dazzling azure sea against we reach an alley. A large black SUV is waiting. We all load in.
a cloudless sky of Crayola blue. “How far are we going?” Turner asks, routinely enough.
Inside the house, Sophie Turner, 24, submits to the min- “Um, just to the corner?” upspeaks the driver. She points
istrations of her attendants. Though her hair is back to its through the windshield at the knot of people and equipment
natural blond, she is immediately recognizable as the English at the end of the alley, no more than 200 feet away.
schoolgirl who first appeared on our screens nine years ago, The SUV sets off gingerly.
at the age of 13, in the beloved and much-lauded HBO series “I feel like such a dick,” Turner deadpans.
Game of Thrones. I like her immediately.
As the auburn-haired Sansa Stark, Turner portrayed with
gathering skill the coming of age of a young woman who suf- The ghosts of uncountable celebrity interviews inhabit the
fered greatly over the course of the show’s eight seasons, yet lobby of the Chateau Marmont, the legendary Hollywood
prevailed mightily in the end, leading her kingdom to indepen- hideaway, just north of Sunset Boulevard, which has somehow
dence. In 2019, the final year of the show, Turner was nominat- managed over the decades to maintain its shine and currency
ed for an Emmy for outstanding supporting actress in a drama. as both a hotel and a gathering place.
And, of course, over the last three-plus years there’s been We meet at a small round table with plush, high-backed
her well-publicized relationship and recent marriage to pop chairs. Sun slanting through the window from the garden
superstar Joe Jonas, along with her appearance in two music restaurant radiates warm light. Jazz from the analog turntable
videos as part of the trio of Jonas Brothers wives known as the and speakers on the credenza nearby lends a jaunty air.
J Sisters: Priyanka Chopra, the hugely famous Indian actress Sophie Belinda Jonas, her legal name, is wearing a com-
who is married to the youngest Jonas brother, Nick; and Dan- fortably worn pair of white Umbro sport shoes and a matching
ielle “Dani” Deleasa Jonas, who is perhaps best known for the ash-gray sweatshirt and sweatpants, emblazoned on the chest
reality show Married to Jonas, about her marriage to the eldest and leg with the word “Erewhon,” the name of a frightfully
Jonas brother, Kevin. high-end organic grocery chain in the L.A. area.
“With Joe, I always felt like I was the one who was punch- Only the sweats aren’t made by Erewhon. They’re made by
ing, like, way above my league. And I still feel like that,” Turner a company called Pizzaslime.
says. “He’s so handsome, talented, funny, charismatic. I’m really “It’s ironic because Erewhon’s so expensive. That’s kinda
lucky to be with him and have someone like him want to be why I like it,” Turner says.
around me and spend time with me.” As this issue goes to press, And so it proceeds for the next 90 minutes: a little bit of
multiple sources have reportedly confirmed to the entertain- brekky with a funny and talented 24-year-old with a gift for
ment site Just Jared that Turner is pregnant with the couple’s wisecracks and nimble comebacks, who doesn’t seem to take
first child. Needless to say, the absence of an “official” confirma- herself too seriously, who worries she curses too much and may
tion did little to quell enthusiasm online, with “Sophie Turner is be a little less PC than she should be, “because English people
pregnant” trending within hours of the story breaking. are perhaps a little more okay than Americans with being sar-
Alas, before rumored baby Jonas arrives later this year, there castic and rude to each other.”
is work to do. Turner’s next project premieres in April: Survive,
a 12-part dramatic series based on the critically acclaimed novel Turner grew up in Chesterton, Warwickshire, about a two-
by Alex Morel, in which she plays a suicidal young woman who hour drive northwest of London. Her dad, Andrew, worked
becomes one of only two survivors (along with Corey Hawkins, as a manager for a company that distributed shipping pallets.
from Straight Outta Compton) when their plane crashes into a Later, he became a logistics consultant. Her mom, Sally, taught
remote, snow-covered mountain. The show will be featured nursery school. Her brothers, a lawyer and a doctor, seven and
on a disruptive new entertainment platform created by a tech nine years older, “are my best friends to this day.”
and entertainment start-up called Quibi (the name is derived Turner says she was “really, really shy as a kid. I wouldn’t
from the phrase quick bites). The subscription-based service say, like, hello or goodbye or anything. I was, like, cripplingly
will offer movie-quality shows lasting 10 minutes or less—all shy. So my mom sent me to this drama school, the Playbox
of it on your mobile phone. Theatre Company.” She started when she was 3 and attended

153
through age 18, time off from GoT permitting. “All my friends than I actually was. When I was 10, the boys in my year were
started there, and we were together all the time—it was like our up to here”—she points to her rib cage—“and it was very em-
church; we loved it. It was magical.” barrassing. I had an interview with a ballet academy where
“You must enjoy a crowd,” I say. “When you married Joe, you board to go to school, and you take all your lessons there.
you married a whole family.” It’s very serious. I auditioned to go there. And they said I was,
“It’s true,” Turner says. “I need that, because I like to feel like like, too tall to be a ballerina.”
I belong to something that’s, like, bigger than just me.” They were married twice. The first time was on May 1, 2019,
“Were you always a Jonas Brothers fan?” in Las Vegas, at a ceremony officiated by an Elvis impersonator
She pauses a moment as our late-morning snacks are at A Little White Wedding Chapel. Nearly two months later, they
served—she orders a bowl of mixed berries; I get a croissant had a second, more formal ceremony in the South of France.
with a side of crispy bacon. “How is being married different from being in a committed
Picking up a blueberry with two fingers, she turns it this relationship?” I ask.
way and that, as if lost in a fleeting memory. “My friends and “I feel like the only thing that’s changed for me is having
I were not Jonas Brothers fans,” she says, laughing wickedly. this incredible sense of security. Just the word husband and
“There was this band in the UK called Busted,” she contin- the word wife—it just solidifies the relationship. I love being
ues. “They had a hit called ‘Year 3000.’ It was amazing, and we married. I think it’s wonderful. I’m sure we’ll have our hiccups
were huge Busted fans. Then the Jonas Brothers covered the and our different things. But right now, it’s like the security and
song and made it massive. And Busted broke up. We thought the safety is everything.
it was all the Jonas Brothers’ fault. So we hated them.” “It’s also nice to have built-in girlfriends,” she adds, refer-
Turner remembers that she was working on a movie in 2016 encing the J Sisters, “who are actually really cool, who I can
when one of the producers, who hang out with and we can really
had once lived next door to the Jo- talk to each other about, like, how
nas Brothers, told her: “You should crazy the boys’ lives are. We can re-
meet Joe Jonas. I feel like you would late on so many different levels. It’s
really get along with this guy.” like, thank God, because you never
Not long after, she says, “I went know [about your in-laws].
to a meeting, and Joe’s agent was “When I “With Pri, especially, it’s kind of
in the room. And he was like, ‘You told my friends crazy. You have to remind yourself
remind me of one of my clients. I that she’s basically had a 20-year ca-
[about our

H A I R B Y C H R I S T I A N W O O D A N D M A K E U P B Y L I S A S T O R E Y, B O T H AT T H E WA L L G R O U P ; M A N I C U R E B Y M I L L I E M A C H A D O AT T R A C E Y M AT T I N G LY.
bet you two would really hit it off.’” reer in Bollywood already. She’s like
Later in the year, Jonas was tour- first date], they the biggest thing in India right now.
ing the UK. Before he arrived, he were like, When we went there for her and
DMed her and asked if she wanted Nick’s wedding, we were treated
to hang out while he was in town.
‘That’s hilarious. like royalty. They worship her over
“I was living with my friends YOU HAVE there. It’s kinda crazy. But she’s just
in Camden, in a really rough flat— TO DO IT! And the nicest person, and they live, like,
people were always climbing in and you have to 10 minutes away. And even though
out of the windows. When I told Kevin and Danielle live in New Jer-
my friends, they were like, ‘That’s text us everything sey, we see them all the time. It’s
hilarious. You have to do it! And you he says.’ ” like we’re all one big family, because
have to text us everything he says.’ the boys are best friends.”
“I expected him to show up
with security and everything. Before meeting Turner, I had
I thought, ‘He’s gonna be such a stopped by Quibi headquarters in
dick.’ I brought all my guy friends Hollywood, where I became the
to come with me to meet him, be- first person, outside of Quibi and
cause in the back of my mind I still worried that he could be the production team, to view Turner’s show, Survive, on an
a catfish—or I don’t know what. I just wanted my guy friends actual phone. (They provided a new Google Pixel.) The pack-
with me. I had my rugby boys. I was safe.” age features a technology called Turnstyle, which enables the
The meetup happened at a bar in Camden. “It was just this viewer to turn the phone either horizontally or vertically—back
local shitty bar, dirty, with great music and people throwing up and forth at will—to experience an entirely different cut of the
everywhere. It was that kind of place. Kind of like the worst, visual content, shot with additional cameras.
but also kind of the best. I was given three episodes of the series, which I watched
“He didn’t bring security. He brought a friend, and they in rapid succession on a sofa in a glass conference room, the
drank just as hard as the rest of us. I remember the two of us phone propped upon my man purse atop my lap. The view-
spending only a couple of minutes on the dance floor, and then ing was unexpectedly accessible; the cinematography was
we just found a space far in the corner and we just talked. We gorgeously detailed. Turner’s performance was intense and
talked for hours, and hours, and hours. And I was, like, not bored. compelling. Hawkins had just entered the picture when epi-
It wasn’t contrived. It wasn’t small talk—it was just so easy. And sode three was done. I definitely wanted more.
soon we were, like, inseparable. I went on tour with him.” “The second I finished Game of Thrones,” Turner says, “I
wanted to go straight back to some form of television. I just love
The couple became engaged on their first anniversary. She the atmosphere that you get on the set. I love the arc you can cre-
is wearing her engagement ring now—a solitaire pear-cut ate over a number of episodes. When I found out about Quibi,
diamond set on a double pavé band in white gold—with its it’s kinda one of those things where you go, ‘I don’t really know
matching pavé wedding ring. Her fingers are long and slim. if this is gonna work, but I wanna be a part of it.’ And then I read
“I was the tall girl,” she says. “I looked about four years older the script and I fell in love with it.” C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 1 7 3

154
WH E R E
T HE
S I D E WA L K

S T A N D O U T F R O M T H E C R O W D I N T H E S E A S O N ’S Photographed by M A T T H E W K R I S T A L L .
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H A I R B Y C O N R A D D O R N A N AT F R A N K R E P S ; M A K E U P B Y N ATA S H A S E V E R I N O A N D M A N I C U R E B Y M E L S H E N G A R I S , B O T H AT F O R WA R D A R T I S T S ;
C A S T I N G B Y M E G A N M C C L U S K I E ; M O D E L : A I D E N C U R T I S S AT T H E S O C I E T Y M A N A G E M E N T ; P R O D U C E D B Y B R A N D O N Z A G H A .
Jacket, $640,
ear cuffs, $240,
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For details, see
Shopping Guide.
Travel

SUNSET AT THE AUBERGE


MAUNA LANI’S EVA
PARKER WOODS COTTAGE
IN KAMUELA, HAWAII.

Eco-Conscious Travel
Even those who regularly traverse the globe are making an effort to tread more lightly.
A few commonsense strategies can make that quest a bit easier. By Sarah Rowland

TEN TE D CA MP (2 ) A ND SIWASH L A KE W IL DE RNE SS RESO RT (2): COURT ESY OF TH E VENU ES; REMA IN IN G
hen it comes to travel, one of the most important find. Chatting with fellow travelers [uncovers] far more detail

AUBERGE MAU NA L A NI (4 ): C O URTE SY OF THE MAUN A L AN I AUB ERG E RESO RTS CO LLE CT I ON; NAYAR A
W eco-conscious decisions you can make is also the
most basic one: How do I get there? Increasingly,
that means a process that doesn’t involve a runway.
about a city’s history, culture, restaurants, and sights than any
guidebook could offer.” Via her globe-crossing rail journeys,
she’s seen how the travel industry is evolving. “Climate change
With “flight shaming” on the rise in Sweden, the country’s 10 is one of the most frightening realities of our time, and we owe
busiest airports even saw a more than 5 percent drop in travel it to the planet and future generations to adjust our carbon
last summer, compared to 2018. footprint,” she says.

IMAGES: COU RT ESY OF THE D ESIGNERS; FOR D ETA I LS, S EE SHO P PI NG GUID E .
Of course, for farther-flung destinations, flying may be The destination can be just as crucial as the journey when
the only viable option. But for the determined traveler, more traveling consciously. Where possible, choose lodging with a
eco-conscious choices abound. For example, KLM, United, minimal-impact approach to its local ecosystem. Look for ini-
and Qantas all use aviation biofuel to reduce emissions. Tiffany tiatives such as solar-powered electricity, rainwater harvesting,
Misrahi, vice president of policy for the World Travel & Tourism composting, and on-site recycling. “The greatest impact you’ll
Council, recommends taking direct flights, flying economy over have as a traveler is in the hotels and experience providers you
business, and choosing airports that produce less pollution, like choose, so search for companies who take a position on these
Dallas/Fort Worth, the world’s largest carbon-neutral airport. issues and make sure they have sustainability certifications,” says
It’s also worth investigating alternative methods of getting Brian Jones, cofounder of Kin Travel, a company that advocates
around, from tuk tuks in Bangkok to bicycles in Amsterdam to for eco-conscious global travel by working with conservation
high-speed trains in Japan. The Eurostar from London to Paris leaders and local changemakers. “Travel is one of the most pow-
produces 90 percent fewer greenhouse gas emissions than a erful economic and cultural forces in the world. At its best, it fuels
flight between the two cities. local economies and protects the ecological and cultural heritage
Choosing to forgo planes can have cultural benefits, too: that we travel to experience. But with equal power, it can also
Train travel reveals the true nature of a place, as author Mo- degrade ecosystems and communities,” Jones says.
nisha Rajesh explores in her book Around the World in 80 While eco-friendly travel may require putting in a bit more
Trains. “Trains burrow deep into the guts of a city, laying bare work at the outset, Misrahi says, it’s “only because [we’re] chang-
its bones,” she says. “They bring us into close proximity with a ing the ways we’re used to doing things. Once we’re accustomed
cross-section of society that would otherwise be impossible to to more sustainable methods, that will become the new normal.”
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171
T H E S TAT E O F S U S TA I N A B L E F A S H I O N
C O N T I N U E D F R O M PA G E 6 1

from T-shirts emblazoned with her likeness (possibly the pre- chain’s greenhouse gas emissions by 40 percent by 2025—and
cise impact she opposes) to a full collection by Sweden-based by 90 percent in its owned-and-operated facilities. Now con-
designers Josephine Bergqvist and Livia Schück, founders of the sumers need to step up. How many pairs of jeans does someone
label Rave Review. Their spring 2020 collection was made with need—and how often should they be washed?
only preexisting materials, including upcycled vintage blankets, Perhaps, as with so many eco-friendly shifts—like ditching
bedsheets, and tablecloths. plastic for glass bottles—change will come not from looking to
As parts of the world grapple with water shortages, anyone the future, but to the past. Living sustainably came naturally to
with a heap of denim in their closet might note the terrifying our grandparents and great-grandparents, who spot-cleaned,
UN statistic that it takes 10,000 liters of water to grow a kilo of mended their clothing, and maintained minuscule wardrobes by
cotton—the equivalent of one pair of jeans. Levi Strauss & Co. modern standards. The answer may well have been right there
has updated its climate action plan to reduce its global supply all along—in our closets. ▪

THE DIRTY TRUTH


C O N T I N U E D F R O M PA G E 1 0 5

in Massachusetts, where researchers identify preventable Gregg Renfrew, the founder and CEO of clean beauty brand
causes of breast cancer. “The Endocrine Society has written Beautycounter, who testified in December at a hearing on
strong statements about reducing these chemicals, both for the the Cosmetic Safety Enhancement Act. “All members of
general population and for those who are vulnerable, such as the beauty community should be committed to a future
a fetus, women being treated for breast cancer, children, and that is clean.”
those with genetic susceptibility.” To that end, third-party organizations like Ecocert and
While more research and legislation can lead to safer Made Safe, and apps like SmartLabel and Think Dirty—as
products, bucks may come before bills. Hence, beauty’s well as the Google Chrome extension Clearya—are working to
buzziest marketing term: transparency. “I think there needs increase transparency by helping consumers decode the often-
to be an industry-wide shift from building beauty on secrets complicated ingredients in product labels. We’ll see what the
to building beauty on clear, open communication,” says commenters have to say about that. ▪

MARTHE: A REFERENDUM
C O N T I N U E D F R O M PA G E 1 2 1

Perhaps it is significant that Earth Day 2169 seems to three-dimensional space, let alone in three-dimensional real
have had no “dawn.” Instead, the sky has been overcast by time, you are likely to feel disoriented. Most of you have never
an eerie, green-tinged dust cloud arising from the Southern gathered together in any public setting like the Great Hall;
Hemisphere, occluding visibility from the observatory level even fewer have gathered together in real time.
of Climate Control Tower I; meteorologists believe the dust The reason for a “paper ballot” is to prevent computer
cloud to be hyper-radioactive, and it may be of a potency that hacking and to assure an accurate count. The reason for real
can infiltrate Climate Control barriers. Also, there have been time is that the referendum must be completed within an
reports of slime mold quivering with “life” in toxic tundra hour so that the results of the vote can be set into motion
wastelands that have been lifeless for centuries. A malevolent by midnight.
new organism resembling gigantic paramecia is reported As voters, you are required to check one box. Yes or No to
flourishing where “grasses” and “trees” once grew plentifully the proposal: No further “extraordinary measures” should be
in the Great Void Plains, said to be equipped with a “rudimen- employed to keep m a r t h e alive.
tary consciousness.” Suffocating winds, blood-red acid rain, That is, Yes means no, m a r t h e—the “last living spec-
lethal solar rays that can shrivel unprotected organic skin imen of her doomed, moribund, accursed species”—should
and scald corneas blind within seconds; a near-continuous not continue to live, while No means yes, m a r t h e and
quaking of coastal lands along new seismic fault lines; smol- her “doomed, moribund, accursed species” should contin-
dering mudslides, radioactive firestorms, steaming sinkholes, ue to live.
bubbling swamplands where no living creatures had been It is true, AICitizens are contractually obliged to protect
detected for centuries until the sudden emergence of a spe- their CreatorSpecies from extinction; but it is also true, con-
cies of new, hardy beetle as large as a Norway rat—all signify tracts can be broken, precedents can be overturned, and new
a new, heightened danger to our civilization. generations are not invariably bound to honor the obligations
Which is why today’s referendum vote is “historic”: a vote of older generations.
to defund m a r t h e will be a vote to pump badly needed The latest polls report sharply divided opinion on the
funds into the sidelined Space Colonizing Project—our only referendum: 46 percent of AICitizens favor halting “extreme
hope to escape the doomed Earth, destroyed by the ravages measures” to keep m a r t h e alive; 42 percent favor keeping
of the accursed species Homo sapiens. m a r t h e alive with “extreme measures”; a swing vote of 12
percent is “undecided.”
Yes, three-dimensional “paper” ballots are indeed an anach- Consider carefully before you vote! The future of civiliza-
ronism in 2169! Since most of you infrequently exist in a tion depends upon you. ▪

172
Shopping Guide
S O P H I E T U R N E R I S N OT A D % # K
C O N T I N U E D F R O M PA G E 1 5 4

“In Survive, my character has been in rehab for [almost] an crispy bacon. And wait for her answer.
entire year,” Turner adds. “And I actually suffer from depres- “I started watching when the last season started,” she says,
sion. I also suffer from anxiety and eating disorders. It felt like “and I was planning to watch the rest. But then I fell behind. And
I knew so much of that world.” then I started reading all these comments online.…”
“Has doing the series helped you with your own issues?” I ask. I ease her off the hook: “And you didn’t want to ruin it?”
She shrugs her shoulders, eats another blueberry. “I feel like you are never going to have everybody be satis-
“I suppose, yeah, at the time, it’s very therapeutic, because fied with the ending. Especially a show that’s been going on for
I’m not thinking about myself. But then afterwards, um, not almost 10 years at that point. People have so many ideas of how
so much.” She pops the tart blue orb into her mouth. “What they want it to end. You can’t make every fan happy.”
happens is...I’ve been so obsessed with portraying this other I pose one last question.
character’s problems that I haven’t actually worked on me.” “How does it feel to have been part of one of the greatest
shows of all time?”
Our time together is quickly coming to an end. Turner has been “Pretty much since season three, we’ve been hearing,
a model subject, answering questions candidly and in detail ‘Game of Thrones! It’s a phenomenon!’ I’ve been trying to,
that perhaps nobody has bothered asking her before, revealing like, comprehend that. But when you’re in it, you can’t see
herself to be an earnest and diverting interview partner. Across it. Now that I’m out of it, I’m only starting to realize how
the lobby, I see Turner’s publicist taking a seat on the couch. incredible it was, what a revelation it was for television. I’m
She gives me a little no-nonsense nod that seems somehow like, ‘Oh my God, I’ve been, like, blessed.’ When it’s happen-
distinctly English. I have time for one more. ing, you don’t realize you’re among greatness: The people I
I ask her about the ending of Game of Thrones. was around. The atmosphere. The way they worked. I was
“I haven’t watched it,” she says. spoiled by that show completely. And I’ll never have anything
“That’s a safe answer,” I say archly, knowing she’s happy like it again. Nothing will be the same. And only now am I
operating a little bit south of the PC border. I eat the last bit of realizing that.” ▪

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ELLE (ISSN 0888-0808) (Volume XXXV, Number 8) (April 2020) is published monthly by Hearst, 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019 USA. Steven R. Swartz, President and Chief Executive Officer; William
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SCORPIO
Oct 23–Nov 21
With the life-giving Sun beaming
into your wellness zone, spring
training kicks into high gear.
Consider a short-term detox
program near the full moon on the
7th. On the 3rd, ardent Venus slips
into your erotic eighth house for an
extended, four-month tour. Those
legendary sex-symbol rumors
about Scorpios could prove true,
especially near the partnership-
powered new moon on the 22nd.

SAGITTARIUS
Nov 22–Dec 21
As Venus launches a charm
offensive in your partnership house
from April 3 to August 7, you won’t
have to “try” at relationships. But
don’t drop your guard for anyone
who flatters you. Resist the urge
to rush into alliances; make people
earn their loyalty points. The full
moon on the 7th exposes the true
team players. By the new moon
on the 22nd, you may draft some
newbies—and make a few cuts!

CAPRICORN
Dec 22–Jan 19
With Mars in your money house
all month, you’re a mogul on
a mission, but use a softer
From setting off on trail hikes
to creating high-concept art,
“I like to work with diamonds in touch. Nurturing your business
relationships cements long-
there’s virtually nothing you
need to do alone this month.
all shapes, especially original term alliances. The full moon on
the 7th hits your career zone,
Venus launches an extended
tour through Gemini from April 3
ones like mirror, kite, briolette, or perhaps prompting a victory
dance—or a pivot to something
to August 7, drawing in kindred
spirits. Choose among the viable
rose cuts. They make me think more challenging. Romantically,
your spring awakening finally
options, or risk losing a bird in
the hand near the full moon on
of water reflecting the rays of kicks in with the new moon on
the 22nd. With Venus in your
the 7th. After the 19th, get control
of money matters by tightening
the sun.”—Victoire de Castellane wellness zone this month, boot
camp with your bae could be hot.
your belt or prospecting for Single Caps, look up: Who’s that
new work opportunities. “DIOR À VERSAILLES, PIÈCES SECRÈTES” RING, cutie on the adjacent Peloton?
DIOR FINE JEWELRY, 800-929-DIOR

TAURUS AQUARIUS
Apr 20–May 20 Jan 20–Feb 18
Voluminous sleeves, endless pleats,
Until Taurus season begins
on the 19th, aim for a state of CANCER VIRGO buttercup yellow everything: The
waking rest, with moments of June 22–July 22 Aug 23–Sept 22 Aquarius maximalist takes the wheel
silence and breaks from screen As lusty Mars storms through Even the most levelheaded under April’s “go big or go home”
time. You’ll set the stage for your erotic zone, feelings trend Virgos can’t escape April’s directive. On the 3rd, enchanting
renewed desire—a good thing, hot. Keep your standards high: intensity. Until the 19th, you Venus begins a four-month sashay
since your guardian, Venus, A power-couple matchup could want every relationship locked through your fifth house of fame,
amplifies sensuality from April spring to life before the 19th. and loaded, but hit pause! Give romance, and creative expression,
3 to August 7. A partnership Single Crabs could set Tinder them space and redirect your drawing you into the public eye.
eases work near the full moon ablaze near the new moon on the energy toward your career. From Put dreams into action after the
on the 7th, but don’t shy 22nd. Already attached? Venus April 3 to August 7, Venus opens 19th. The new moon on the 22nd
away from leadership on the helps you bring a shared fantasy the creative floodgates in your could bring a new job opportunity.
22nd, when 2020’s only new to life between April 3 and success sector. This renewed
moon in Taurus debuts. August 7, but you may have to inspiration could lead you to PISCES
clear up some resentments first. study or teach once Taurus Feb 19–Mar 20
GEMINI season begins on the 19th.
“Done is better than perfect”
May 21–June 21 LEO might as well be your motto as
Radiant, romantic Venus swings July 23–Aug 22 LIBRA Mars puts wind in your sails to tie
into Gemini on April 3, lighting Expansion is in the cards for Sept 23–Oct 22 up every loose end by mid-May.
you up like the Vegas strip. During Leos, whether you’re launching a Relationships take off this month, The goal? To open a vast amount
this rare four-month window, start-up or taking a voyage. Make but time may be scarce. Be direct of open space for yourself, both
COU RTE SY OF THE DESIGNE R.

use your magnetism to get your your motto “independent but not near the 7th, when the year’s only physically and metaphysically.
accomplishments into the public alone.” As convivial Venus spends full moon in Libra calls for candor. Capture the genius that flows in
eye. You may revive an old style four months in your community With cosmic creatrix Venus on a near the full moon on the 7th. This
while the love planet is retrograde zone, everything feels amplified spring/summer tour through your lunation may bring a relationship
(May 13 to June 25), but plan when shared with creative travel zone (April 3 to August 7), to a turning point. Are you in or
ahead for this tricky cycle by people. Career goals get a boost plan for a life-changing trek. The out? Choose and stop agonizing.
legally protecting your intellectual near the new moon on the 22nd. planet of beauty and amour will be
property. Be camera-ready for In love, you may take a breather retrograde from May 13 to June
the full moon on the 7th, because from one partnership while you 25—a better time for revisiting By the AstroTwins,
fame could come a-knocking! pursue another this April. meaningful GPS coordinates. Tali and Ophira Edut

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THE NEW EAU DE PARFUM

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