American Woodworker Volume IV, Number 3 July-August, 1988

AMERIC WOODWORKER Jointer Basics Building Thos. Moser’s Bow-Front Table | Buyer's Guide to Doweling Jigs MU, Clamps: Which Ones Do You Really Need?Quality. Dependability. Affordability. MACHINE DATA: OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES: MOTOR: z - CUTTING CAPACITY: stock CUTTER HEAD: eee PLANER STAND $54.00 ee ere Extra Set of Blades $20.00 witn purchase) OVER ALL DIMENSIONS: Aeecarenes , when you mention you saw this vest pope in THE AMERICAN WOODWORKER! ‘ Call Toll Free Tools-To-Go, inc. 535 NW ST : 1-800-445-1419 (USA) 800-330-5057; Hialeah, Flr 305-620-0999 (LOCAL)Volume No.3 CONTENTS a PROJECTS AND FEATURES 16 JOINTER BASICS Technique is as Important as Machine Setup by B. William Bigelow 22 BUILDING THOMAS MOSER’S BOW-FRONT TABLE An Elegant Table for Your Hall or Dining Room by Mitch Mandel 29 WALL SHELF ‘Crown Molding Makes It Look Like a Fireplace Mantel by Walter Morrison 32 BUYER'S GUIDE TO DOWELING JIGS What They Do, How They Work and What They Cost by Jim Barrett 39 WOODWORKING CLAMPS Which Ones Do You Really Need for the Work You Do? by W. Curtis Johnson BOW-FRONT TABLE » 22 44° sTILTS DEPARTMENTS Your Kids Will Have a Ball on These Adjustable Stilts by Fred Matlack 4 LETTERS 46 CONTEMPORARY STOOL 6 oa If You've Never Made a Stool Before, Start With This One 8 TECH TIPS by Nick Engler 49 TURNING PICTURE FRAMES sO ereneproota Make a Round Frame For Your §2 WOODWORKER'S CALENDAR Favorite Photo by John Sainsbury 2a carey. JULY/AUGUST 1908 A 1The WAH Me ‘Moneates nosing rom i eoep'0 7” wae ‘Speed veratiy ana 45" boon contr! ‘Mai is ado cal us to-re today. 1900:250-1380 In NH 609-654. Willams & Hussey Dept 5166, ‘YES! Sond you Wee ntormabon kt ios! pesos. ty. Sta ANYWOOD W&H Molder-Planer & Lathe Prolesionals ana hobbyist ake know the stengths of our products Pane’ conv om planing o molding only te minus, and (Our 12 Lae wth ts cast son headstockaletock and sod see ways, has our ‘Superior made USA conarucion, exceptonal warrant, and ree 3D ay tts ae your essuance oon io andtalSalaehon Fiversaw il, PO. Boe a9, Witton, NH ca08e 2p THE TOOL CHEST. cracrammnuenareciraoe rO ORDER YOUR CATALOG | SEND $2.00 (refundable. SDR ey Eh QUALITY TOOLS FORTHE PROFESSIONAL SILO Ges Yo * Brand names 1 Sutton Send $0 for your scion 1 fly ‘hatated ards SILVO HARDWARE CO. Dept 409-611 N. Broadway Bax 92069, Mite, WI 53202 ES SHAKER PEGS CANDLE CUPS MUG PEGS $1795 per 100, prepaid ‘Wide selection of ther ‘wood products. Catalog $200 o reo wih order Benny’s Woodworks 70, Box 886 Dept. 7 antec Vero reste ‘ie Foose Shaker Pog 2A AMERICAN, WOODWORKER AMERICAN WOODWORKER FOUNDING EDITOR sim Jennings EXECUTIVE EDITOR David Sloan ART DIRECTOR Laura Dare Tylersmith ‘SENIOR EDITOR Sell Day ‘copy EDITOR ‘Ann Michaet PRODUCTION MANAGER Paul Snyder ART ASSISTANT “Ardyth Cope EDITORIAL SECRETARY Judy Allender (CONTRIBUTING EDITORS. Jeff Armstrong B. Wiliam Bizelow mie Conover Nick Engler Franklin H. Gotshal W.Curtis Johnson John A. Nelson Dennis Watson CIRCULATION MANAGER Lawrence Hil SUBSCRIPTION SERVICE MANAGER Jane Holingsworth Morris PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Harry Ardaine ADVERTISING SALES OFFICE 33 Minor St, Emmaus, PA 15098 is) 967si7t ADVERTISING SALES REPRESENTATIVES James Owens Heidi Prats, ADVERTISING SERVICES MANAGER Barbara Gasper (CLASSIFIED SALES REPRESENTATIVE. Karen Grossman AMERICAN WOODWORKER (SSN 87509318 ‘Published se imesa yearn Jaman, March, Moy. Sods: September sad’ November by Rodale Prst Incr 39 B. Minor St. Emmaus, PA 16036, 215) S67S171. © 1988 by Rodale Press, ne. Robert Rodale, Chalrman of the ‘Board: Marshall ‘Akerman, Vice Chairs; Reber lel Pret Pasi Weseel,Chiel Financial Olficce SUBSCRIPTION RATES: US. onesear $24 {toyear 6 Singlecopy 34, Cana one year 81 rectors 4 Romie Feed Rig covet $32. Wwoyear 56 (US, funds) US. newstand Astbion by Eastern News Disbuters te M30" Cleveland Ray” Sandushy, OH 48870 SSECONDCLASS POSTAGE: pil st Emmaus PR Sh ston! mulling lice. POSTMASTER: Send request We wil fest unlit material seth ‘te, bt we cannot assune respon for os frame Senda stamped slraddesedeneope (Ge retars of aterYour workshop (Ww we ae) wG ...BIG! SAVE ... convert low emcee i for use in your enenaticcn 3 DANN y INCOME by supplying custom Planed Lumber, AMEN e Totten) lumberyards . Romane cabinetmakers ... home ee hobbyists and others FOUR BIG ADVANTAGES... KS KS TN Aya New CLR ae RYE es All with Automatic Power Feed! 30-DAY FREE FREE TRIAL OFFER!!! ies ‘Coupon rings Home Crs es, ut a JULY/AUGUST 1988 A 3SIR Bill Lindstrom indicated that the in- tersection of diagonals drawn from comer to corner marks the center of a board (Letters, May/June ’88 AW). If the goal of this procedure is to divide the width of the board equally, then this method will work only if both the sides and ends of the board are parallel. However, many times the ends of a board are not parallel but at some odd angle. Assuming the sides are parallel, which is often the case with a factory milled or ripped board, Eli Wengerd’s method of find ing the center of a board with a tape measure (Tech Tips, March/April '88 AW) is just as easy and, more impor- tantly, accurate. Incidentally, Wen- gerd’s method will not work if the sides of the board are not parallel. Davo Kumaan Columbus, OH 's an improvement on John Nel- son's radial saw stop for multiple cuts (March/April '88 AW), The prob- MAKE BEAUTIFUL RAISED PANEL DOORS . . . WITH YOUR 1/ perfect every time. Regular value Over $150.00 sas price $69% ron coneuere ser ‘ORDER ITEM 4058 for 14” Shank Set eta al i shown) ROUTER! Professional production quaity bit makes it quick and easy to produce matching rals and stiles — the panel raising bit with Ball bearing guide makes the raised panel Letters DRAWING BY HEATHER BRINE LAMBERT lem with Nelson’s suggestion is that if the cut off piece shifts or moves after the cut, the blade can bind or kick back as the saw carriage is returned. At the very least it can ruin your cut. Instead, make a hinged stop block that flips down so you can butt your board against it and flips up out of the way when cutting, The end of the stop block is rounded so it will flip up easily without pushing the board away. The block is elevated '/ in, off BONES, Pa FOR WHOLESALE EXOTIC AND DOMESTIC HARDWOODS (CUSTOM CUTTING, RESAWING, ABRASIVE PLANING MUSICAL INSTRUMENT WOODS The Sawmill PLUS ALL OTHER EXOTIC WOOD SPECIES TOLL FREE 800 345-3103 Woodworker's (Dream DIVISIONS OF THE MARTIN GUITAR CO.. NAZARETH, PA 18064 the table so sawdust accumulating underneath won't affect the accuracy. Mrrett MANDEL. Allentown, PA SIR T'vesubscribed to AMERICAN WOOD- WORKER since the first issue back in 1985. Iwas about to drop my subscription when, quite luckily, Rodale Press bought the magazine. There has been a definite improvement, Please renew my subscription for one year. Please upgrade AMERICAN WOOD- WORKER issue after issue, making it the magazine for the “quality minded” woodworker. Give ita lot of personality and, in no time, you will increase your readership. Rayon Gesaivexx Ophain-Bois-Seigneur-Isaac Belgium SIR sa longtime wooderafter, both pro fessionally and as a hobby, I have sub- scribed to virtually every publication on the market concerning woodwork- TROSEWOODS, MAHOGANIES, PADAUK, [RESIDENTS CALL (215) 729-2068 FOR RETAIL INQUIRIES ‘RAISED PANEL gt FREE CATALOG ‘Woe today tsar your FREE two yar sbscipton Complete suction fal hinds of wodworking tok ‘ompetve prices anda, fend service have made Woodworkers Supply af New Meuco the prefered ‘rcs or poeta wodrking tol and wpe, ease a my to-year sb eres Zi Woodworker's spot nth 8a Serr "To order by Masior Charge or Visa Tol Free ee ehg Bay "24 Hour Oe Senvoe, Cal oy or send check to: MLCS, Le, 0 Box 4052A, Rydal PA 19046 eer ae “ 4B AMERICAN WOODWORKERLetters ing. When I opened the pages of your magazine, I could scarcely believe my eyes. Drawings, photographs and instructional text were absolutely su- perb. I can honestly say that I have never witnessed such quality in any other publication. Tam so tired of trying to decipher the mistakes that are either the result ‘of poor research on the author's part ‘or poor editing. Sometimes the magazine editor misses something. Your magazine has to be the result of di vine intervention for the preservai of my sanity, [shall continue to subscribe to AMERICAN WOOD- WORKER until either its publication ‘ceases or I can no longer read. Thanks again for the most compre- hensive magazine on the market. Deter ENGLAND ‘Suntield, MI SIR: Trecently received my first copy of AMERICAN WOODWORKER and I find it to be a very informative magazine. I did notice one small error in your Tech Tips section (March/April ’88 AW). The idea for finishing shelves is depicted incorrectly, I believe. It would make more sense to nail the shelf into the center of the scrap boards. Nailing the boards in the cen ter will protect the finish on both sides, The drawing shows the shelf flush with the top of the scrap boards. Rictako Faneett Raleigh, NC EDITOR'S NOTE: You're correct, the drawing's wrong. As it says in the Tech Tip, nailing scrap blocks to the ends of 4 shelf allows you to finish both sides at once. The drawing should show the shelf nailed to the middle of the scrap blocks as you describe SIR: Tam returning your issue of AMERI- CAN WOODWORKER. I was looking for something with more project type things and much less buyer guide items, I have been in woodworking for approximately 25 years. So I would like to see much more on projects to build and use. You have a good magazine for the right person, Doy Mite MeHenty, TL SIR: The drawing for tuning the 45° template is wrong ("Routing Half-Lap Mi- ters,” May/June '8 AW), The router should work from the left to the right, but the arrow in the drawing shows the router moving from right to left. Wa. V, Det Sour Westmont, IL EDITOR'S NOTE: You're right. The drawing should show the router moving from left to right, against the rotation of the bit. Send your comments, compliments and corrections to: Editor, AMERI- CAN WOODWORKER, 33 E. Minor St, Emmaus, PA 18098, no aan Daye ee a oper |s driven on both up and Sales eaeeeee areca a Xg9 a6 End repairs f needed, ‘of aatietiod customers use Our ‘Saw worldwide. SPECIFICATIONS: eat ron consevcton ‘Throat coph 15" Max depth of eut— 2" 4 Gis por mie — 1725 Woot — 3 bs Professional quality, precision . . Super 15” Scroll Saw -qew ‘Comparable value over $500. 3 ‘shipped Only ready tog x tr 1 Motor — Heavy uty tay enclosed fan cooled HOV 120¥ UL tte, bal bearing ~ Inducion tor PENN STATE INDUSTRIES-A 2850 Comly Road + Philadelphia, PA 19154 %s "-215-676-7608 (Ext. 18) ‘Add 615.0 fr Blower option » Vos, Maneroar, Chek of Money Orso Accepted _Ni1 810.0 fr choo Corinna US. = Penorvana resort a 8 sale tx - pele | ea tO" Pos 3429: Fenn Sate: it stem mines Virsa od S| 1 rent rtd et of 15 | Sond ot hac a eed wih eprom a elt ‘arbors yo fe ef Sr eid ospiors e ove cote fm "ia fr a re Seb ‘sets a (stn coment sre oh ot cee See coker eres ‘Sn rine mae “mom li yo TUUWAUGUST 1986 & 5Q&A LARGE PIECES ON SMALL SAWS Qe rite fence on my tablesaw onty a- lows for a 24-in. cut. What do 1 do when I want to rip a three-foot piece from a full sheet of plywood? Also, 1 work alone, and it's really hard to wres- te a 4%8 fi, sheet across the saw. Any suggestions? ‘Awriug HoMpaney Chicago, IL A. there are several solutions to the problem, two of which don't even in- volve the tablesaw. Option one: make a cutting jig to guide a circular saw. The cutting jig Should be about a foot longer than the plywood; for cross cutting, make the guide about five feet long, and for ripping make it nine feet long, Glue a Strip of wood to the first piece, form- ing'a ledge that guides the base of the circular saw. The edge of this strip must be perfectly straight. Make the jie’s bottom board a bit wider than the base of the saw. The first time you use the jig, the saw will rip offa bit of the bottom board, You'll then be able to use this cut edge to align the jig to your cutting line. You can make the jig from hardwood, plywood, exterior paneling, (available in nine-foot Tengths) or Masonite lap siding (available in T6foot lengths). If you use solid wood, select a stable species such as mahogany or redwood, prefer- ably quartersawn, With flat-sawn stock, orient the growth rings so the inner part of the circle faces up—if the piece cups, the outer edges will still contact the plywood and resist rocking. When cutting, support the plywood either with saw horses or2x4s on the floor. Put two supports under the large part of the sheet and one or two supports under the smaller cutoff. Be sure to keep the saw firmly pressed against the ledge so it does not wan- der. I get a pretty good edge with this method, but if its a little rough, cut the sheet 1 in. larger than required and cut the extra inch off on the table Another option is to replace your table saw fence guides with longer cones. There are several very nice ret- rofit fences on the market, but they are quite costly. I replaced the angle- fron fence guides on my Sears 12: tablesaw with 6-ft. lengths of similar angle iron, available at any steel sup- plier. I mounted the new angle iron flush with the far let of the saw-table extension so I can also cut 16 inches to the left of the blade. This comes in very handy sometimes. If you try a similar setup, you'll need to put spacers between the new fence guides to keep them parallel Threaded rod works well. Drill a hole through each of the guides every foot or so, Run the rod through the holes with a nut on either side of each guide. The nuts can be loosened and ‘moved slightly to fine tune the alignment. Apply a self-sticking tape measure on the front angle iron in the same manner as the original. To support the work, attach a piece of Yi-in. plywood to the right of the saw, level with the table top. Add two extension legs to help balance the saw. I screw a longer auxiliary fence to the regular fence. It's about a foot longer than the original fence on the outfeed end and helps guide the cut on wide pieces as oa AMERICAN WOODWORKER they pass the blade. Be careful to keep your eye on the fence and see that the edge of the sheet rides firmly against it. It is easy, when cross cutting long pieces of ply, for the sheet to pull away from the fence, particularly at the end of the cut. This can result in a nasty kickback that not only tends to ruin the sheet but can be very dangerous as well. I use two roller extensions made from home- made rolling pins, to help support the sheet The third option is probably the best. Buy or build a panel saw. This wall-mounted contraption holds the plywood on edge while a circular saw ‘mounted on a carriage cuts the piece. If you have the money, or the time to make one, this is the way to go. Per- sonally, I'm still limping along without one, BEN ERICKSON Cabinetmaker Butaw, AL GLUE CONFUSION Qa 1am forever fost when it comes to buying glue. What's the difference between yellow glue and white glue? Is one stronger than the other? Does one give you more time to clamp? How about durability if exposed to water? Would either one be suitable in a bathroom cabinet? M.S, Lanotey Washington, DC. A. First of all, let's forget about strength, If the’ joint surfaces are clean and fit well, almost any woodworking glue will produce a bond that's stronger than the wood itself. DRAWING BY KATHY BRAYQ&A When a joint fails, it's usually the ‘wood fibers next to the glue line that break, not the glue itself. The only ex- ceptions are contact cement and hot- melt glue, which have relatively low strength Both white and yellow glues are water-based emulsions of polyvinyl acetate, and they are delightfully noi toxic. Their handling characteristics are a bit different. Yellow glue ‘s in- itially more tacky, but it takes longer to reach a hard cure. Both glues harden by evaporation, so the setting rate is largely controlled by the Pporousness and moisture content of the surrounding wood. If you know in advance that you'll need to remove dried glue dribbles with a sander, use yellow glue instead. White glue tends to clog sandpaper badly. Yellow glue is slightly more water resistant than white glue, but either ane would be fine fora bathroom cabinet—just don’t use them to build a hot tub or fancy oak toilet seat. When a waterproof adhesive is required, the best choices are epoxy, urea-for- maldehyde or “plastic-resin” glue (a brown powder that's mixed with water before using), or resorcinol glue (two liquids that you mix together), Epoxy and resor jl arecom- pletely waterproof and ideal for use ‘on boats or projects that will be im- mersed in water. They're also expensive and messy to clean up. Plastic- resin glue won't withstand continuous soaking, but it is highly water resistant and glue can be mopped up with a damp cloth when uncured. Ep- oxy is unsurpassed when you need to stick together a joint that doesn't quite fit. It's one of the few adhesives that can fill gaps and still produce a ‘strong joint. You may have trouble with the resin oozing out of voids before it begins to gel so, for big gaps, try inserting a loose-fitting wooden shim to fill most of the empty space. Epoxy, plastic resin and resorcinol glues all require room-temperature curing. They also produce toxic va- pors, so maintain good ventilation in ‘your work area. If you live in the fast lane, use one of the quick-curing “five minute” epoxies. Otherwise, the regular overnight-curing epoxies have somewhat superior strength and you don’t risk your peace of mind by discovering that your dish of expensive glue has petrified while you're trying to figure ‘out how to fit the pieces of your project together. Georce Mustor Geochemistry Research Technician Western Washington University Bellingham, WA EBONIZING WOOD QY A local gatery has a table in the window made of jet-black wood. It doesn't look like ebony—the grain appears to he that of ash or oak. It's obvi- ‘ously some kind of stain, and I'd like to try a similar finish on some of my pieces. What's the best way to get this effect? I'd like to hear from someone who has done a lot of this kind of work. BRIAN CULLEN San Francisco, CA A, The technical term for staining things black is ebonizing. Our shop does a lot of it, and we did our share of learning the hard way. In the old days, finishers had a lot in common with alchemists. Eboniz- ing formulas once called for ingredi- ents like haematoxylum campechia- num, brewed for several hours. To ebonizeoak, an elixirof nailsand vine- gar was popular. A more recent ree- ibe calls for an application of aniline hydrochloride followed by an application of potassium chlorate Of course, no one practices this kind of voodoo finishing anymore Commercially available aniline dyes are much simpler and more reliable. There are two types of aniline dyes ble: One isa powder that mixes with alcohol; the other is a powder that mixes with water. The aleohol- based dye has a reputation for being not quite as color fast as the water- based dye—T've seen the black turn blue after a few years in the sunlight The water-based stain. penetrates deeper and is more colorfast. The water raises the grain, but a very light sanding takes care of that prob- Jem. ‘We used both types of aniline dye in our shop and no one was really crazy about either of them, The prob- Tem is that once you start mixing things, ou get a lot of inconsistencies that can affect color. You'd think that with water-based dyes everything ‘would be pretty straightforward, but in Philadelphia, where I live and work, the tap water comes out of the murky Schuylkill River and nobody has any idea what chemicals are in it. There are lots of people having suc- cess with regular aniline dyes. But the best coloring agent I've come across for ebonizing wood is leather dye, used by belt makers and leather ers. If you haven't got a ready go visit the shoemaker and talk him out of a little bottle. Leather dye is aniline-based, but it's pre- mixed, so you always get the same results. Because it is produced for the large, competitive shoe market, there's alot of research involved in developing it, and the quality control is excellent. It’s easy to apply, colorfast, doesn’t raise the grain, and comes in 1 wide range of colors'in addition to basic black. I just grab a bottle off the shelf. It’s not very romantic, but it works better than anything else I've found. Apply two coats of dye on wood that has been well sanded, Leave at least a day after the second coat before you apply your finish. We've found that otherwise, the finish pulls off some of the color. TACK LARIMORE Furnituremaker and designer Philadelphia, PA WHERE TO FIND IT Sheet metal attachments, fittings and flexible hoses for dust-collection systems are available from Manufactur- cers Service Co,, Inc., 358 Bishop Ave., Bridgeport, CT 06610. Plans for a five-drawer toolchest with a hinged top and a detachable front panel are available from The Wood- workers’ Store, 21801 Industrial Blvd., Rogers, MN 55374 Extra-long (28 in.) Yin. diameter drill bits for drilling lamp bases are available from Woodworker's Supply of New Mexico, 5604 Alameda Place NE, Albuquerque, NM 87113. Cane and rush for weaving chair seats are available from Frank's Cane & Rush Supply, 7252 Heil Ave., Hunt ington Beach, CA 92647. Got a woodworking question for the ex- perts? Send it to Q&A, AMERICAN WOODWORKER, 33 E. MinorSt., Em- ‘maus, PA 18098. JuLy/AUGUST 1988 A 7Tech Tips Arm Chair Joint Here's a joint that I think is an improvement over mortise-and-tenons or dowels for joining chair arms to legs. Mortise and tenon joints or dowel joints glue the long fibers of the tenon or dowel across the grain of the arm. Seasonal wood movement can eventually break the glue bond and weaken these joints after a few years. ‘My joint uses a wood screw to fasten a wooden plug to the leg. The plug glues into a recess in the arm, You align the grain of the plug with the grain of the arm for a strong glue joint. If you're worrying about the holding power of the screw in end grain, don’t. The force required to pull out a #10 woodscrew with 1’ in, of thread engaged in hardwood end grain ranges from a low of 298 Ibs. in poplar to 1236 Ibs, in maple. “Micsaet O’Baxion Westminster, MD Routing Flutes To make fluted panels for columns, doors and cabinets build a sliding carriage for your router table. Make the carriage out of plywood a little over twice as long as the longest flute you intend to cut, Screw a fence to the back and clamp on stop blocks to control the beginning and end of the flute. A couple of cleats screwed to the underside of the carriage guide it along the router table and keep it from twisting, @ A AMERICAN WooDWoRKER New Life for Broken Stones Before discarding a broken sharpening stone, try gluing the pieces back together with epoxy. I've done this to several different stones in the past six years and, to date, none of the joints has failed. ‘Roget M. VAvGhAN Roanoke, VA Kerfing Turning Blanks Most turners cut two saw kerfs in the end of a turning blank so the spurs on the drive center can get a better bite. rest the blank on a V-block and saw these kerfs on the bandsaw. This is safer than cutting freehand and guar- antes that the kerfs run from corner to corner. Bint Biostow Surry, NH To rout a flute, put the end of the board against one stop block, lower onto the spinning cutter and push it along the fence until it butts against the second stop block. Lift the board off the cutter and slide the carriage over to cut the next flute. This ally handy if you have a whole run of fluted panels to make. You only have to measure once—the jig takes care of the rest. Lower board onto bit. Guexw Bostock, Carversville, PA Trimming Edge Bonding The drawing shows a setup I use to trim off the overhanging end of edge banding on plywood shelves and cabinet parts, Clamp a stop block against the fence so that the left-hand edge of the block lines up with the left-hand edge of the blade. Position the shelf against the stop block as shown, and use the miter gauge to guide the shelf through the cut. If you've set it up carefully, and your miter gauge is accurate, the saw will cut off the edge banding flush with the edge of the plywood. ‘Manic Sigg New Hope, PA Sander Savoy A sheet of fine sandpaper (220-grit and finer) doesn’t last too long when you're sanding with an electric ‘sander. Instead of stopping every five minutes to change the paper, put on four or five sheets at one time. When the top sheet wears out or tears, just Hp it off to expose the sheet underneath. Hiexnext Zone Petaluma, CAHome-made Honing Guide Holding a plane iron at a constant angle while honing can make all the di ference in obtaining a keen edg. Here's a quick and inexpensive jig, made from a 6-in. stove bolt, two washers and two nuts. It will hold a plane iron at a steady angle without rocking. Pass the bolt through the hole in the plane iron with a nut and washer on each side of the blade. When ad: justed to the proper angle, tighten the nuts to hold the setting, Taues R, Krause Skaneateles, NY DRAWINGS BY HEATHER BRINE LAMBERT Tech Tips Drill Press Hangups Tkeep my drill press chuck key and a small paintbrush hanging from my drill press on lengths of light chain, The chuck key is always there when I need it and the paintbrush comes in handy for brushing away drill shav ings. Lagay Horr g Anamosa, TA rncrumen Ser Split Nails To prevent a nail from splitting the wood, put the head of the nail on a hard surface and blunt the point of the nail with your hammer. This will greatly reduce the chance of splitting the wood —especially hardwood. ‘ALUN H. SHERWOOD Round Lake, I. Know a beiter way of doing something? Designeda clever jig? Send yourtips, along with a sketch ora snapshot to: Tech Tips, AMERICAN WOODWORKER, 33E. Minor St, Emmaus, PA 18098. We'llpay your 825 if we publish your tip. “Mitchell's” ABRASIVE CORDS and TAPES {A complete line of round abrasive cords and flat tapes for a variety of woodworking and furniture refinishing applications are ideal for getting into deep grooves when finishing new spindles or stripping old furniture. Unike ‘sandpaper which has to be folded and is awkward for this kind of work these cords anc tapes come in a handy adhesive tape-like dispenser. Packaged in 25 yd. spools in 18 different sizes, E. C. Mitchell Abrasive Cords and Tapes are impregnated with aluminum oxide or silicone carbide. Cords come in 012" to 150" diameters and tapes in widths from 1/16" to 14" with abrasive on both sides, PLEASE CONTACT YOUR DISTRIBUTOR Write or Telephone for Samples E. C. MITCHELL CO. INC. P. O. Drawer 607, Dept. AW36 ‘Middleton, MA 01949-0907 Telephone (617) 774-1191 FAX NO. EFFECTIVE JULY 16, 1-508-774-2404 TuLyAUGUST 1988 a?SANDING STICK W ‘The X-ACTO Sanding Stick is just the thing for sanding inside nooks and crannies on moldings and carvings. The streamlined, pencil-shaped holder accepts specially-made coarse-, medium- and fine-grit sanding belts. NATURAL NON-TOXIC OIL FINISH > Nearly every craftsman has made a ‘wooden cutiing board or counter top at some point, and all have faced the same problem: What's a safe, non- toxic finish? Preserve Nut Oil is 100% natural, with no metallic driers or pe- troleum by-products. Designed for 10 A AMERICAN. WoOOWORKER The Toolbox What's New in Woodworl Tools and Supplies ng You can rotate the belt so the paper on the business end of the Sanding Stick is always sharp. (Price: $2.95 for the sanding stick and two belts; $2.95 for five replacement belts) Wi Hunt Manufacturing Co., Dept. AWT, 230 S. Broad St, Philadelphia, PA 19102 CORDLESS DREMEL TOOL & The Dremel Moto-Tool has gone cordless. Powered by a 6 volt high-torque motor, the Freewhecler Cordless Moto-Tool Model 850 runs at two speeds, 15,000 or 20,000 RPM, and will run continuously for 15 minutes before its ni-cad batteries need re- charging. The Freewheeler Cordless is available separately ($59.95) ot with a 30-piece accessory kit ($79.99). It will also handle all the accessories Of the plug-in Moto-Tool including a router base, sanding drums, a flex shaft and all sorts of grinding wheels and wire brushes. WM Dremel, 4915 2ist St, Dept. AWT, Racine, WI 53406 hildren’s furniture or even toys, it's made entirely from edible nut oils, Preserve Natural Nut Oil Finish is safe immediately upon application and dries to a durable matte finish in 24 hours. Unused oil has a shelf life of one year. (Price: $8.95 for 8 7.) WM Woodcraft Supply Corp, Dept. AWT, 41 Atlantic Ave., PO. Box 4000, Woburn, MA 01888The Toolbox rr ——<$£§ CERAMIC SLIP STONES © Made of alumina, second in hardness only to diamond, ceramic stones are so hard they're virtually impossible to nick or scratch, and they don't wear out, Now ceramic stones come inshapestosharpen yourcarving chisels. Spyderco’s new 40-F Ceramic File Set includes four stones, each shaped for a different sharpening problem. You use them dry; no oil or water is required. When the surface loads up, the stones scrub clean with scouring powder and water. (Price: $30.95) WM Spyderco, Dept. AWT, P.O. Box 800, Golden CO 80402 ‘CONTINUED introducing . . . For Information on our Decoy Carving Classes or to reve our FREE. Decoy and Woodcarvers Tools and Supplies Catalog Ten tegen ‘Axo aos TAKING STAM, WRITE For Custom Logos or Artwork ENGRAVING ARTS + (707) 984-8203, P.C. English, Inc. PO. Box 380, Dept. 11494 ‘Thombung. VA 22565 rbindustries fanily of fine quality tools... sa Hawk. Precision Scroll Saw ‘Americas best sling scroll saw ca ‘you the capabilities you need a You can aford, Wah Tve madels to ‘Choose from, the Hawk the scrol saw for you! Unlock your creativity and enjoy revason woodorkng you never Steamed possible. Send fora fee fact kt tos . rbi Joint Machine” » | Create beaueful wood joints so precise they dont even require ging. Nake beau til finger rts dovetas, mortise and tenons, and using the optional ‘ered pin router attachment you can ‘make wooden sigs and any precon ‘outer work all with ane simple machine a Send today for more information! lem. rbi WOODPLANER’ Planer Sander © Nodes © Gang Sow Fae ser ay resol fra aeeloneone reheat a Pie sgh oes bo heed a Be pure ut oreo ah on yor ? Pros te bg ans Saher Bobs bound catom'ctangs wit be Sorkyeepe evel yw eos caee oat oe a fed gang sen. Send ody for yur fect ies a [Kt on al RBI products fos xe ce / “ Loe Ag. a vi, . Ay For Faster Sevice Call Toll Free Z's sa 1-800-535-8665 8 / ay . Js 4 0 rbindustries “e's, 1201 Vine stro POBox 369% 6p Kerri nem SOM won JuLyauguST 1988 A 1)The Loolbox BRONZE SHOULDER PLANE KIT & The Bronze Shoulder Plane Kit is a replica of a 19th-century British pattern plane. The kit consists of a ‘ax 1x5! in. cast manganese bronze body, a rosewood infill blank, a ‘hein. wide tool-steel iron and in- a eI Pneumatic Drum/Brush Head Sander inate Tedious Hand Sanding! Send iregular srtaces witout or deta Pneumatic sanding drum. Avalbla We amotr, 2 198 Oporaterrepustd fated structions. It takes about four hours to assemble and requires only simple shop tools. When finished, the low 20° angle of the blade makes it ideal for trimming end grain, as well as trimming rabbets and tenon shoulders. (Price: $39) M Woodcraft Supply Corp., Dept. AWT, P.O. Box 4000, Woburn, MA 01888 MAKE PLANS NOW! 1 1 1 1 ; Exhibit at ! 1 the show Royal Plaza Trade Center ff 1 New England Marlborouh MA [Woodworkers over 100 Hours of Continuous 1 are wating Ere Demonstrations! for! aera rn aeons 1 ieee eee ee eee end SAF-START-PLUG & High-end woodworking machines have a magnetic on/off switch that ensures that, should the power fail, the machine won't restart when the power comes back on. It's an important safety feature, but an expensive ‘one—prices for magnetic switches start at more than $100, But now, the small shop can have the same protection at a fraction of the price. The Sa Start-Plug replaces the machine power cord and plugs into a standard wall outlet, The on/offswitch works exactly like before except that now the machine—and its operator—are pro- tected from unexpected start-ups. AS an added bonus, the Saf-Start-Plug also protects against motor damage by cutting power if the line voltage drops significantly. (Price: $45) LIDS Products, Inc., Dept. AWT, 3864 Park Dr., El Dorado Hills, CA 95630 WOODWORKE USES ZSESLSPSZSENTS SHOWCASE ¢ Cul Casts—Boos Produsion— (On Moldings, Furniture And Ince Carvings! Caseardened steel shalt mounted an Mei salt-atonng tango bal beanigs, Cast ne noumate drums Utaeable 34H. Baldor Sale phase, capector start moto, ene ofthe Iestndustial motos avalabe. Optional stand les you work at comfortable Bench heart. Fabricled of heavy gauge see, Sand - Rége manveactvrine co. 321 N. JUSTINE ST. # CHICAGO, IL 60607 Our nationwide ‘dealer network serves you. To ‘order, call Toll-Free 800-521-2318 for your nearest dealer (ra Free brochure, 12 A AMERICAN. WOODWORKER Send for the latest edition of the free Consumer Infor ‘mation Catalog. The Catalog lists over 200 selected federal publications of consumer interest on subjects like health, nutrition, federal benefits, money manage ment, (The Catalog is free and so are many ofthe booklets. .Just send your name and address, no strings attached. Write today: Consumer Information Center Dept. DF, Pueblo, Colorado 81009The Toolbox DELTA 1-IN. BELT SANDER One-inch belt sanders are great for sanding, sharpening, shaping and grinding. Delta's entry into the 1-in, market is designed with the small shop in mind. Powered by a 's-HP motor, the Model 31-050 sander uses standard 130 in. belts. The die-cast, 5- in, square aluminum table tilts 45° for beveling. The platen that supports the belt comes off for sanding curved pieces. A builtin chute allows you to hook up a shop vac for dust collection. (Price: $69.95) W Delta International Machinery Corp,, Dept. AWT, 246 Alpha Drive, Pittsburgh, PA 15238 conTINUED HOW WOULD YOU MAKE THIS WITHOUT Rca) Peete nae) ‘Wie hrs you wil gre that even inthe advanced woodworking shop, spectacular INRA Double Dovel pictured are ‘woul be ust about impose make. But wih te preiion and ‘rss fINCRA JG, ths tis nt eny posse bat ‘Suprcigly easy to produce. We show io ve youa rst hand {Gok ua one othe unlnaed NEW woodwarkng possbies that INGRA JIG opens up for you. eas that wer previously {ecked up ony in your ragration Bocause you cart have tho {oats ur tert reals at ow realy accomplished with ‘hs romaratie raw into “Thi UNIVERSAL PRECISION POSITIONING NG oreaty enhances the accuracy ofl your werk postonng reauramerts by ‘Servng as 2 precison incremental fenes or top bce on your ‘outer table rl press table saw, band sam, of radia arm ‘aw. itpostions yout work potty at ANY multe o 1/32, 1/16% 17a or 1/2" la ote cuting tol over he ul Sch ‘ange. Th ig ato east mleroradustable any seston between fred sone Tho worstcac oor is under 1/500" wit a ‘epeataity rr mach ss han 1/1000 The needy eloaabie NCRA JIG ean be purchases rom most ne woodworking tres aed catalogs nationwide. Feratte brochure and he locaton he dealer nearest you, rt ‘Taylor Design Group, ne. P.O, 0x 810262 Daas, TX75381 Like Having A Lumberyard BT CT aS) E> NOW! 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Sie Sree ae WoobMASTER Toc, NC pape Prey eee enna CY ka ioe ‘aleise StSfarsanana JULY/AUGUST 1988 & 13‘CARBIDE TIPPED ROUTER BITS PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTION QUALITY SPECIAL OFFER — SAVE 50% - 75% BELOW COST 7000's SOLD TO READERS OF FINE WOODWORKING worl van fa dae | xe | sra.00 voo| ae’ [ay sue | ane | 1400 fe | os} ve"A fare” fame | se" | 1500 vol fame dae | ae | 1800 sos| aaa [aay swe | ser | 1600 m | olsen fae fame | our | 19.00 vor ssa" | sce" |1w" | 152°] 19.00 in | vals [wr lye" | aan | 20.00 nu) ae” Deep fru" | 2" | 1400 Rassenve | 9 00) wr gem acrooren [1m | ve" | 1400 ‘n0| ve wenn atoroumen |r") 14" | 1400 T ‘ria| 45° cuuren | 452 |" | sie | 1500 ane 18) muccorme |20° |e") ve" | 2500 ‘naie 1795/4" Vroow oo sie" | ve" | 00 738) 38" V Groowe 00° | 38" | aw” | 900 37) 112" vGroow 90° | 2" | ve" | t100 38" dovetat 9° Jae" | ae” | 750 2" Doveral 4° 12" | vz" | 950 3" Dovetai 14 [ow | 70” | 1050 are BOX ROUND NOR) 19] 10° cow wx se" | se | 11.00 20) 12" ce 8a vz" | wve2"| 1400 25) 34” cae Bo sav | se | 1600 ‘22\ 12" Grooving Ogee | 12" | ae” | 1650 12a) 14" Grooving Ogee |e" | xe" | 21.00 7aa| a Sraighe ok | 700 ‘2s| sie" Sraight at |" 700 ee|aw" Sraight 8t |e" 700 var| v2" sragn sto" | 700 ras| au” seaman [ae | 1 | 1050 OF wra| va Rush TAM [we | 350 ‘WHEN ORDERING ANY 3 OR MORE, DEDUCT $1.00 EACH [ALL PRICES POSTAGE PAID % Professional Production Quality + 1/2” Ball Bearing Plot + V8" Diameter Shanks x 1%" Long * One Plece Construction + Two Flute Thick High Quality Tungsten Carbide Tips To order by Master Charge or Visa Toll Free 7 Day — 24 Hour Order Service Call 1-800-593-9298 ‘or send check to: MLCS, P.O. Box 4053A, Rydal, PA 19046 u A AMERICAN WOODWORKER The Toolbox ELU 1-HP ELECTRONIC PLUNGE ROUTER > Black & Decker introduces the Elu Model 3304 1-HP variable-speed electronic plunge router to the U.S. market. Made in Switzerland and de signed for the serious woodworker the Model 3304 features a 6.5amp motor and an adjustable speed control so you can dial in any speed from 8,000 to 24,000 RPM to suit your material and cutter diameter. A soft start feature brings the router up to speed gradually to prevent torque twist. The electronic constant speed control prevents any drop-off in speed under load. Its three-position turret stop makes it easy to rout todif- ferent depths in successive passes. ‘The Elu 3304 comes with a'4-in.col- let, a guide fence, two guide rods, a guide-bushing adapter and two wrenches. An optional accessory kit ($175) converts the router into a light duty shaper complete with hold downs, fine-adjustment controls and many other features, A trammel bar, for cutting circles, is included with the accessory kit and is also available as an option ($13). (Price: $299) Wi Black & Decker, Dept. AWT, 10 North Park Dr., P.O. Box 798, Hunt Val- ley, MD 21030 LIQUID FILE SHARPENER Don’t throw out those old, dull files. Shark CP-17, a new liquid etching so- lution from Western Chem-Tech, reju- venates files and rasps and prolongs their useful life. Immerse your files in Shark CP-17 for 30 minutes and the so- lution etches a fine edge on the teeth. Only slight amounts of metal are removed, so the pitch and rake of the teeth don’t change. You can sharpen the same file several times. A quart of CP-17 is enough to sharpen 40 files. It is non-combustible, free of toxic fumes and rinses off with water. The company offers an unconditional 30- day, money-back guarantee. (Price: $18.95 quart) WM Western Chem-Tech, Dept. AWT, PO, Box 539, Parachute, CO 81635The Toolbox Simpliciey, strength, experience. Justa tad overbuilt! The Conover Workbench System is the result of ten years of teaching experience sm, atthe Cononer Workshops. "The basis of a ad the sjstem sa set of avy (32 hs each) iron bench les withthe Conover tee motif east in he center. The leg design ‘raw on ur ofthe century foundty pa tern which are pleasing tothe eye: When 7~3——] combined with heavy od top they resi in'a highly flexible sytem compatible wily { al the woodworking nes. ‘We also offer cas iron shelf brackets, which carry the ree rmotf. They provide an ative tool shelf which keeps things off the work surface and out ofthe shavings. -Allerately, th brackets can be Secured tothe wall above the Bench giving two shelves The functional cuves ofthe leg cast ings lend themselves Victorian el nce or indus! chic. In fect our finlomers have incorporated. them in some’ very non-workbeneh setings” an seers desk, ichen Work tations. and potting benches, We senda sheaf of sketches tet the Teg showing the more innovative de- Signs, Don't pur up with a rickety Dench tonger, build soll Conover” Workbench today! (OK Conover send me: WBL-32 Conover Workbench Logs With Hardware $249.00 FOB Parkman, OH WBL-33 Conover Shelf Brackets ‘With Hardware $25.00 FOB Parkman, OF — OV U2460 Hard Maple Top 24" x 60" x 1" $149.00 FOB Parkman, OH. Enclosed is _ check _money order for $ Charge my MC _Visa#___(__(_/_ Expat Stte___Zip CONOVER WOODCRAFT SPECIALTIES, INC. 18125 Madison Road, Dept. C68807 Parkman, Ohio 44080 Tal 216) 548.3481BY B. WILLIAM BIGELOW snono cxcouno JOINTER BASICS Technique is as Important as Machine Setup oodworking requires fair share of flat surfaces and straight, square edges. There ‘are two ways to get them. One is the tried-and-true hand plane. The other is the jointer, the hand plane's machine-age counterpart. The jointer is a simple machine. It has an infeed table and an outfeed table, Between the tables is a cutterhead designed to remove wood as it passes over it. Properly set up, the outfeed table is level with the top of the are traversed by the knives in the cutterhead. The infeed table is set slightly lower. The difference in height between the two tables is what determines the amount of wood, the jointer removes in one pass. Lower the infeed table for a heavier cut; raise it for a lighter cut. An adjustable fence spans both tables to guide the stock. A spring- Toaded safety guard covers the portion of the cutterhead not in use, Jointers come in various sizes according to the maxi- 6 A AMERICAN. WOODWORKER. mum width of cut. Standard sizes range from 4 in. to 16 in, 4-, 6-and 8-in. jointers are the sizes most often found in the small shop. Large jointers are nice because they can flatten wider boards—but they cost a lot, weigh a lot and take up a lot of floor space. ‘As with most woodworking machines, you'll get b ter results from your jointer if you learn the proper tech: nique for using it. How you handle the stock directly fects the quality of the cut. Knife marks, torn grain and edges that aren't straight or square are more often the result of unskilled handling than problems with machine setup. Here are a few hints on proper jointing technique. Flatten the face of a board first. Begin the cut with the board resting flat on the infeed table and feed it across the cutterhead. After about one-third of the stock has crossed the cuttethead, transfer your hands to the wood ‘over the outfeed table. Finish the cut, keeping pressure ‘on the stock over the outfeed table. You should comfort- ably follow the stock, never overreaching or letting your- self get off-balance. Once you've flattened the face youcan joint the edges. To ensure square comers, hold the joinied face firmly against the fence as you joint the edges. Moderately-slow feed speeds and light cuts will produce the best finished surfaces. Faster speeds and heavy cuts result in knife marks and torn grain. If you have to remove a large quantity of wood, several light cuts are better than one heavy cut. Don't try to take off more than ‘fe in. in one pass. For a smooth cut, it's important to note the grain rection and to feed the stock in the proper direction (see Fig. 1). This is sometimes easier said than done, especially where grain direction changes around knots. If grain direction changes in the middle of a board, reduce the feed speed and take a light cut. Highly-figured woods, such as bird's-eye maple, joint poorly because no matter how you feed them, or how light a cut you try to take, the knives tear out much of the grain. Try raking the fence so that the stock crosses the knives at an angle. If you can’t rake the fence on your jointer, you can clamp on a wooden auxiliary fence instead. Roller stands help with long stock if you carefully set them level with the outfeed table. I have successfully jointed 12-foot boards with a small 4-in, jointer this Joint cupped boards with the concave side down. This way the edges can rest firmly on the table. If a board is bowed, position it with its ends riding on the table, and joint the bowed side first. If the bowed board is longer than your jointer table, joint a little off each end (con- For strait edges and smooth cits, jlting technique is inportant. Start with pressure oe he infed table Ue). cave side down), then surface the entire board. Jointing warped or twisted boards is tricky because the board can rock on its corners as it moves over the cutter head. I glue wooden wedges to twisted stock to keep it from shifting and rocking on the table. I make several passes until the stock is flat and the wedges have been, cut away (see Fig. 2). With practice, you can omit the wedges and control the cut by putting pressure on the di- agonal corners that contact the table. The jointer is usually used to cut long grain but, in a pinch, itis possible to joint end grain on boards at least, 10 in, wide. Jointing end grain requires a different technique to avoid shattering the wood at the end of the cut. Start the cut at one end of the board, but only cut about, 2 in. across. Turn the board around and start from the other end. Stop when the two cuts meet. Take light cuts. In practice, I seldom cut end grain on the jointer because I find that a carbide saw blade or a hand plane produces a superior cut I don't recommend jointing plywood and particle board. The glue in these materials quickly nicks and dulls the jointer knives, Jointers look pretty harmless, but they're responsible for a large number of serious hand injuries. Wear safety glasses and never pass your hands directly over the cu ter head without using a push stick. Short stock (Ie: than 10 in.) can fall into the cutterhead and pull your hands along with it. [have a 10-in, board mounted over my jointer with a sign that reads, “Thou shalt not joint anything shorter than me.” [have ten fingers to show for my caution, conTiNvED ‘Shift hands to the outfeed side and finish cut wth pressure over the outfeed table (right). suLYFAUGUST 1988 4 17‘To position the knife atthe top ofthe cutting are: 1 Lay stock on outed table edge Maintaining Your Jointer ‘The jointer is a sturdy machine with heavy castings and few moving parts, but like any machine, it requires peri- odie adjustment and sharpening to perform well. ‘Whether your jointer is new or used, no amount of fid- dling will help if the tables are not flat and parallel. Most jointer tables and fences are made of cast iron. Like ‘wood, cast iron can warp. As a result, reputable manufacturers age new or “green” castings for a few months, to relieve internal stresses that may cause warping. The seasoned castings are then machined flat after they'vesta- bilized. Even the best of castings may warp if stressed, so don’t place heavy objects on the tables and don't use the jointer as a storage table. To check jointer tables for flatness, lay a straightedge across each table in several directions. Any sign of light ‘The Magna Set, a commercilly-made taife-setting ji, holds the knife in position ‘while you tighten the gib screws. A wooden wedge helps to hold the cutterhead in position. 1€ A AMERICAN. WOODWORKER under the straightedge is a sign that the table isn’t quite flat at that point. While you're at it, check the fence. It should be flat, too. A machine shop can always mill either surface flat again ‘Once you're sure the tables are flat, check that the infeed table and outfeed table are parallel and don’t sag. ‘Crank the infeed table up to the level of the outfeed table. Cut four squares of paper from the same sheet. Place ‘one piece at the far end of each table and one to either side of the cuttethead. Lay a straightedge over the four squares of paper and check that it contacts each piece equally. If the tables don’t align, raise or lower the infeed table until they do. If moving the table doesn’t improve things, one of the tables is probably sagging ‘Some woodworkers loosen the outfeed table bolts a bit until the table just begins to sag to make a concave or “sprung” joint. For flat surfaces, however, the tables must be parallel. Tightening the bolts that fasten the of- fending table to the ways will usually eliminate table sag (consult your owner's manual). Now turn your attention to the cutterhead, The cutterhead is a steel cylinder with slots for the knives. A plate called the gib screws over the knives and holds them in place. The cuttethead is designed to run balanced with each knife protruding and cutting equally. The bearings, located at either end of the cutterhead, must be free of play. The maximum allowable play is measured in thousandths of an inch, and varies from jointer to jointer. If you can feel any play at all, it's way too much, but the best way to check is with a dial indica- tor (Sept., 1985 AW). The drive pulleys should be tight on their shafts and run true to minimize vibration. If you notice any vibration, investigate the cause immediately. Replace the belt if it looks tom or frayed. ‘The knives require more attention than anything else on your jointer. Sooner or later they get dull or nicked Changing knives can be time consuming, but fortu- nately, they can be stoned by hand several times before they need to be removed from the cutterhead and reground, (See "Stoning Jointer Knives.”) When the knives get nicked or become too dull to stone, it's time to remove and regrind them. First, unplug the jointer. Next, loosen each gib screw a little at a time and remove both the knife and gib. (Some cutter-FIG, 1: CUTTING WITH THE GRAIN DIRECTION OF FEED DRAWINGS BY HEATHER BRINE LAMBERT FIG, 2: JOINTING WARPED STOCK DETAIL A: CUPPED BOARDS DETAIL B: BOWED BOARDS \_ DETAIL C: TWISTED BOARDS Ay Joint cupped stock with: / Joint short lengths of X a Glue wedges to board concave sie down. stock concave side down. JULY/AUGUST 1988 & 19STONING JOINTER KNIVES ‘Stoning forms ‘secondary bevel, Saneeo teeta calcio ing” jointer knives so that they all protrude exactly the same amount above the cutterhead. They ac- complish this by laying a fine India stone on the outfeed table and passing it lightly over the spinning cutterhead. This evens up the knives and creates a tiny flat, or secondary, bevel on the edge that makes the cutting edge more durable. Jointing also restores a blunted edge, up to a point. When the flat gets too wide, it produces a negative clearance angle and the cutting edge no longer contacts the work, You end up with a surface that's bruised and burnished instead of cut. Personally, I think jointin under power is ex- tremely dangerous, so I've developed a variation of, this stoning technique to sharpen jointer knives between grindings. I's safer because it's done with the power off, and it doesn't produce a negative clearance angle on the edge of the knife. turn the knife slightly past the top of the cut ting arc, Ifthe end of the cutterhead were a cloc! the knife edge would point to one o'clock. I've painted a mark on the bearing casting to use as an index. Then I secure the cutterhead with wooden wedges and lower the outfeed table just a hair. 1 wrap a piece of paper around a fine stone, to protect the table, then lay the stone on the outfeed table and take a couple of passes along the knife to sharpen it, counting the number of strokes so I can get all three knives the same. I repeat the process for each knife. When I'm finished, I raise the outfeed table to the height of the knives. If your jointer doesn’t have an adjustable outfeed table, you can shim up the back end of the stone to accom- plish the same thing. Unlike conventional jointing, my method produces positive clearance angle. The back ofthe secondary bevel will not scrape the wood because itis, ground with the table lowered and with the knife past the top of its cutting arc. Ifind Ican hand stone a knife three or four times before Ihave to pull it out for regrinding. —B.WB. heads have screws and springs that adjust the kni ight, and these will also pop out.) Regrind the knives in a set so they are balanced. Although several jigs are available for grinding jointer knives, I confess to sending mine out to be reground. Yan- kee ingenuity claims I should feel guilty about not doing, it myself. Yankee frugality says send them out. When, you figure in your time, it’s cheaper. Setting the Knives The knives must be set so the top of the cutting circle is, level with the outfeed table. If you set the knives too high, you'll get a concave cut. Too low, and you'll get a convex cut. 20 A AMERICAN WOODWORKER Installing the knives is a fussy operation. The hard part is getting all three knives adjusted to exactly the same height and then holding them there while you tighten the gib screws. One way to do this is to lay a straight piece of wood on the outfeed table so it extends ‘over the cutterhead. Unplug the jointer, and adjust the blade height so that each knife just scrapes the wood as you rotate the cutterhead by hand. Check both ends of each knife to make sure they're the same height. After years of trying to speed the knife-setting process, Tve finally settled on using magnets. I use a commercially-made knife-setting jig called the Magna Set, (available from Uniquest Corp., 585 W. 3900 South #6, Mur- ray, UT 84123), but you can also use two bar magnets,FIG. 3: SETTING JOINTER KNIVES DRAWINGS BY HEATHER BRINE LAMBERT cone at each end of the knife. The magnets hold the knife at the height of the outfeed table while you tighten the ib screws. For me the hardest part is trying to remember where I put the magnets between sharpenings. ‘The magnet method requires an initial, one-time setup that involves scribing some reference marks on your outfeed table. First, wnplug the jointer and locate the top of the cutting circle by rotating the cutterhead by hand until a knife scrapes against a piece of straight stock extending from the outfeed table and drags the stock down the table short distance. Mark where the knife first begins to touch the stock and mark where the knife sets the stock down. The top of the cutting circle is between these two marks. Next, wedge the cutterhead with the knife edge at the top of the cutting circle. A small wooden wedge in- seried between the cutterhead and bearing housing will Next, lay two bar magnets on the outfeed table extend- {ng over the knife, one at each end of the knife. The magnets must be perpendicular to the cutterhead and parallel to each other. Scribe a reference line on the outfeed table of your jointer so that next time you can place the ‘magnets in exactly the same spots without measuring. Seribe one reference line on each magnet to line up with the line on the outfeed table and another reference line ‘where the knife touches the magnet. This way, you can quickly position the knives at the top of the cutting circle, That's the end of the setup procedure. To set the knives, place the magnets in position and, with the knife at the top of the cutting circle, tighten each gib screw a little at a time to avoid distorting the knife. Make sure you tighten all the screws on all the knives. A loose knife is dangerous. After the knives are tightened, check the setting by extending a wooden straightedge over the cutterhead from the outfeed table. When the cuttethead is turned by hand, each knife should lightly scrape the wood. Check to make sure the knives don’t extend more than '/s in. be- yond the cutterhead. Reset your thickness gauge to zero, if necessary. Double check everything. Stand away from the cutter head and bump the switch on and off. Investigate any noises. Jointer tables will rust, particularly in a basement or garage shop. To prevent this and to reduce friction, I fre- Guently polish the tables with paste wax. Avoid waxes or sprays containing silicone, as silicone keeps finishes from adhering and is the main cause of crater-like “fish eyes” in lacquer finishes, A B. William Bigelow is an industrial-arts teacher in Peter- borough, NH, and a contributing editor to AMERICAN WOODWORKER. JULY/AUGUST 1988 & 21BUILDING THOMAS MOSER'’S OW-FRONT Strip Lamination Makes a Simple, Graceful Curve von TABLE his bow-front hall table was designed by cabinetmaker Thomas Moser of Portland, Maine, and appeared in Mo- feasured Shop Drawings for American Furni- ser’s book, ture (91985, Sterling Publishing Co.,Inc.,Two Park Ave. New York, NY 10016). Like many of Moser’s designs, this table has its roots in 19th-century Shaker furniture. But Moser added a curved skirt, a formal element that also provides some exciting construction challenges. 22 A AMERICAN. WOODWORKER While Moser’s drawings supplied the dimensions for the table, they didn’t tell me how to build it, There were some fairly tricky details to puzzle out for myself. In this article I'll explain, step-by-step, how to build Moser’s bow-front hall table. The curved skirt is the front structural part of the frame, and the best part to make first. There are a number of ways to bend it. It can be kerf-bent, steam-bent or laminated. I chose to laminate the skirt for several rea- sons, Laminate bending is easy to control, doesn't re quire any steaming equipment, and doesn’t leave vis- ible, structurally-weak cuts in the back of the skirt like kerf bending does. Laminating also produces an ex tremely strong piece of wood. ‘The first step in laminating the skirt is to build a bending jig, as shown in Fig. 1. Cut three pieces of Yin. ply ‘wood 12 in. X54 in, long. On one of the sheets, mark a cen: ter line across the width and drive nails into the jig as shown in the drawing. Lay out the curve by bending a "Yin. thick strip of wood around the nails and tracing around the strip to draw the curve on the jig. Once you have the curve laid out, glue and screw spacer blocks between the sheets of plywood to build the width of the form up to 4 in. Don’t put any screws on the curve line, since you'll be sawing along this line. After the glue has dried, carefully bandsaw the jig in two Laminating is an easy way to make the curved ‘skirt. Three Yin thick boards are glued up in this two-part bending jg to form the "cn, thick skit,With its tapered legs and graceful curved skirt, this walnut table, designed by Maine ‘cabinetmaker Thos. Moser, makes an elegant ‘addltion to hall or dining room.Cut the angled front-ieg mortises with a router bit ‘chucked in the drill press. Instead of iting the {able, tape the wedge-shaped cutoff from beveling the leg tothe side opposite the mortise. The cutoff tits the leg to just the right ange. along the curved line. If you don’t have a bandsaw, you can cut each piece of plywood individually with a saber saw before adding the spacer blocks. After you've sawn the jig in two, line the mating edges of each jig half with '/«in, plywood or hardboard. This will provide a smooth clamping surface and will also tend to bridge any minor irregularities left by the bandsaw, Cut two pieces of ‘rin, plywood or hardboard 455 in, long. Spread glue on the two mating surfaces of the jig and slip in the two pieces of ‘Jin. plywood Place wax paper between the '/«in. pieces to prevent, glue squeeze-out from accidentally gluing the jig to gether. Clamp the jig halves together, making sure the center lines on each half of the jig line up. When the glue is dry, put a heavy coat of paste wax on each clamping surface to prevent the laminates from sticking to the jig when you glue up the skirt Glue up the skirt from three '/+in, thick boards 4 in, wide and 60 in, long. You can make these thin boards by resawing thicker stock on the bandsaw or by laminating, three pieces of '-in, veneered plywood Spread a liberal amount of glue on the inside surfaces of the outer boards and put the third board between hem, Place the whole assembly in the jig and put on the lamps. Start clamping in the middle and work out to either end. Allow the glue to dry overnight, While the as sembly is still in the jig, mark the center of the skirt us- 24 A AMERICAN. WOODWORKER ing the center line of the jig as a reference. You will use this mark later to ensure the symmetry of the curve when trimming. When you remove the clamps, the laminated skirt will spring back about 20 percent. You may have to adjust some measurements given in this article to accommodate the curve you end up with. Joint one long edge of the skirt. Then rip the other on the tablesaw to the finished 39 in, width Measure 26'/ in. from the center mark of the skirt to each end along the outside of the curve and trim the skirt to length at each mark. Place the skirt belly-up on a flat surface and place a square against one end of the skirt as shown in Fig. 2. Next, set the blade of a sliding T bevel against the front of the skirt as shown. You'll use this setting later to tilt the tablesaw blade for beveling the front legs. Making the Legs To make the rear legs, cut two pieces 1%/ in. square and 277+ in. long, Cut two mortises in each leg as shown in the leg detail of Fig. 4. Next, cut the tapers on the in- ie faces of the rear legs. I tapered the legs on the tablesaw with the aid of a tapering jig (see sidebar). Set the tapering jig for a taper of Ys in. per foot, but mark the taper on the legs just to be safe. It's a good idea to test the taper jig setup on a piece of scrap. Start the cut 4 in. from the top of the leg and taper the inside faces of the legs only. The outside faces remain square. Just to make sure, you should be cutting only the sides of the legs with the mortises. The front legs are a bit trickier to make because they have angled mortises and beveled front sides. Cut the front leg blanks 1"/6x 2'/6x 27" in, long, Cut the mortises for the side skirts just as you did on the rear legs. Next, cut the bevel on the front side of the leg. Use your sliding T bevel, which you already set against the curve of the skirt, to set the angle of your tablesaw blade. Rip the leg so the outside edge is I‘ in. wide (see Leg Detail of Fig. 4), Remember that you have a right and a left leg, which must be mirror images of each other. Be sure to save the ‘wedge-shaped waste piece—you'll need to use it in the next step, when it’s time to cut the angled mortises for the curved skirt. Cut the angled mortises with a % in, straight router bit chucked in the drill press, Instead of tilting the drill press table, tape the wedge-shaped waste piece to the opposite side of the leg with double-sided tape (see photo), This ensures that the mortises are drilled exactly parallel to the front side of the leg. Next, taper the rear legs. Keep the tapering jig on the same setting you used for the front legs. Taper the curved-skirt mortise edge of each leg. You'll have to move the tablesaw fence away from the blade to cut the second taper on each leg. Cutting the Tenons The key to keeping the table square is to make sure that opposite skirts are exactly the same length measured from tenon shoulder to tenon shoulder. Measure in a straight line between the shoulders on the front skirt not along the curve. Cat the tenons on the side skirts and rear skirt on the tablesaw by making repeated passes over the blade. Be sure to test your setup on a piece of scrap before cutting the skirts themselves. You want your tenons to be a snug slip fit in the leg mortises. Cut a 45° chamfer on the endFIG. 2: SETTING THE T-BEVEL ANGLE 2. Pace square against of shirt. Place skirt on aS a’ DRAWINGS BY LEE HOV 3. Set sliding bevel to angle of curve. of each tenon so the side-skirt tenons won't interfere with the rear skirt tenons. 1 suggest cutting the tenons on the curved front skirt with a router, as shown in Fig. 3. Draw the shoulder line 1 in, from the end and clamp the end of the skirt to the workbench with a handscrew clamp. The clamp also serves as a guide for the router base, so position the clamp 90° to the board and set at the proper distance for the router to cut just to the shoulder line. Set the router, fitted with a straight bit, to cut a tenon Yin. thick. This procedure will leave a shoulder that is slightly undercut, which will guarantee a tight fit between the curved skirt and the front leg. A center stretcher is mortised into the front and rear skirts and spans the width of the table (see Fig. 4). Cut a Ys in, x34: in, mortise ‘Vs in. deep in the center of the front and rear skirts. Begin the mortise "/ in. from the top edge. Make the stretcher "43! approximately 18 in, long. The exact length of the stretcher will depend on the amount of curve you obtained in the front bow. You should dry fit the frame together to determine the exact length of this piece. Cut a ‘Js in, offset tenon on the bottom of each end to fit the mortises in the skirts Assembling the Table Glue up the rear legs and skirt in one section and the front legs and skirt in another. When clamping the front skirt and legs, the bowed piece will have a tendency to bow even further and you won't get enough pressure on the joints. To control this, use a clamp in the middle (see Fig. 5). After the front and back sections are glued up, it’s a simple matter to glue the sections together with the side skirts and center stretcher to complete the frame. If you measured carefully and cut your mortises and tenons accurately, the frame will be perfectly square. coxTiNtED FIG. 3: ROUTING THE SKIRT TENONS Guide router against hhandserew. JULY/AUGUST 1988 & 25cali We we FIG. 5: CLAMPING THE FRONT LEGS AND SKIRT DRAWING BY LEE HOV Once the frame is glued up, you can measure for the final dimensions of the top. The top should overhang the frame by ‘rin. all around. Select your boards for the top with care, paying close attention to matching the color and grain, For all the time and effort you spend on the frame, it is the top that truly defines the table. That is the part that you will see and feel first. The table will be only as good as the top. Cut the boards slightly longer than necessary to allow for trimming after glue-up. Once the top is glued up and trimmed to length, lay the top on the frame and use the frame itself asa template to scribe the curve. Remember to allow '/: in, overlap all around, Cut the curve with a sabersaw and use a small hand plane (a block plane works well) to smooth the final curve. Plane, scrape and sand the top to a glassy-smooth finish. Glue and screw */4X%% in, strips along the top inside edge of the side and rear skirts. Secure the top to the frame with 1'4 in. #10 round head wood screws through in. holes drilled through the strips and the center stretcher. These oversize holes will allow the screws to move with the seasonal cross-grain expansion and con- traction of the top. ‘You can use any reasonably durable finish for the table. I applied half a dozen coats of Waterlox, a tung-oil finish, wet sanding between each coat with successively finer grits of sandpaper—ending with 600 grit. Whatever finish you choose, be sure to finish the underside of the table exactly as you do the top surface to avoid warping due to uneven moisture absorption. It will be easier to finish the frame and table top separately, then attach the top when finishing is complete. ‘CONTINUED Mitch Mandel is a professional photographer and amateur fuurnituremaker in Allentown, PA. Thos. Moser is a furniture designer and cabinetmaker in Portland, ME. His cata- logis available from: Thos. Moser Cabinetmakers, 415 Cum- berland Ave., Portland, ME 04101. sutyrauGusT 1988 & 27A TAPERING JIG FOR THE TABLESAW Trpered legs are a common feature in many traditional Shaker and American furniture designs. They are easily cut on a tablesaw with the simple shop-made tapering jig shown here. Touse the jig, you adjust the arms to set the taper you want and tighten the wing nuts to hold the setting. Place the leg (or whatever it is you ‘want to taper) against the jig as shown, and push the piece through the cut, holding the jig against the fence. The mark 12 in. from the top of the jigis, used to set the taper in inches per foot. Here's an example: The legs on Moser’s bow- front table taper from ‘to I's in. over a length of 23! in, Set the arms of the jig "in. apart at the marl To set the tablesaw fence, mark the start and end ofthe cut on the leg blank. Move the fence until the starting point contacts the front edge of the blade. Verify the setting by moving the jig to the end of the cut and checking the blade position at the end point. When cutting tapers on the legs, cut them in an order so that you always have an untapered flat surface riding on the saw table. This will ensure a straight cut across the top of the leg. Also, be sure not to raise the saw blade more than ‘in. over the height of the stock or you'll risk cutting off your ad just ment bar. egs, adjacent tapers can be cut using etting, When you want to taper all four sides ofa leg, you need to double the taper jig setting when an already tapered side is riding against the jig, —M.M. DRAWING BY FRANK ROHRBACH {A simple tapering jig allows you to cut accurate ‘tapers on the tablesaw. Push the jig along the saw fence to feod stock into the blade. TABLESAW TAPERING JIG Make adjusting bar /” DOWEL HANDLE ‘rom 1" plywood. 28 A AMERICAN. WOODWORKEROld-Fashioned Fireplace Mantel wanted a place to display my mantel clock, so I designed this wall shelf to look like a fireplace mantel, It's a very simple project to build, and it looks great on the wall. What appears to bea thick, solid base under the shelf is actually hollow The wide molding is standard 3'/-in. pine crown mold ing, which you can buy at any lumberyard. I made the rest of the shelf from pine to match the molding. The dimensions shown are the ones I used. Don’t be afraid to modify the dimensions to suit your needs. Get started by cutting the shelf and bottom to size (see Fig. 1). If you want to display plates on the shelf, you'll need to rout a plate groove to keep the plates upright on their edges. A groove about ‘rin. wide and ‘/s in, deep will accommodate most plates. Rout the groove with either a cove bit or a V-groove bit in your router. To keep the groove straight, use a router fence or guide the router base against a straightedge clamped to the shelf. Glue up stock to make the brackets. Using the bracket pattern in Fig. 1, cut out the brackets with a band saw, " Lk scroll saw or coping saw. Carefully sand off any saw marks on the curved edge~you want those curves to be smooth, This is important because you'll be routing the corners of the bracket. The router-bit bearing will dip into any bumps and valleys left by the saw and tele graph these irregularities to the finished edge. After you've removed the saw marks, rout the edges of the shelf and the brackets with a "/s-in. round-over bit. The drawing shows you the finished profile. This profile creates a shadow line which visually softens the shelf edge and adds interest. Make several passes with the router, each cut a little bit deeper than the last. feed the router against the rotation of the bit for better control. When I've made a cut at the final depth, I find that a fi nal pass in the opposite direction cleans up any imper- fections. Sand the top and brackets now, before assembly. ‘Sand the bottom, and attach the vertical spacers to the bottom with glue and finishing nails. Now screw the brackets to the bottom, using two 1'd-in,, #8 flat head wood screws per bracket ‘conrINUED JULY/AUGUST 1988 & 29 BY WALTER MORRISONCROWN MOLDING MITERS You may hive sen cow molding grac- ing the edges of stately parlor ceilings and as- ‘sumed it was one solid piece. Infact, itis a board nailed at an angle between the ceiling and wall, and is seldom more than’/ in, thick. Because of this angle, crown molding miter joints present some special problems. You have tocut the molding upside down. Try it the other way around, and you'll end up with a huge gap at the top of the joint. Here's how to cut the molding for the wall shelf. FIG. 2: MITERING CROWN MOLDING First, cut the molding for the left-hand side of the shelf. Place the molding upside down in the miter box as shown in the drawing with the saw handle 45° to the left and the finished molding to the right of the blade. Cut ita little long—you'll trim the back ends of both side moldings later. Cut the front molding next. Set the saw handle 45° to the right and the finished molding to the left of the blade. This cut produces the left-hand corner. Test fit the molding against the bottom of the shelf, and mark the right-hand corner with a knife. Put the molding back in the box (upside down, as before), with the saw handle 45°to the left and the finished molding to the right of the blade. Cut to the waste side of the knife mark. Cut the right-hand side molding with the saw handle to the right, and the finished molding to the left of the blade. ‘You can also cut crown molding miters on a tablesaw or radial arm saw. Just remember to cut the molding upside down. On a table saw, set the miter gauge to 45°; leave the blade at 90°, Rest the top of the molding on the table and clamp the bottom of the molding to an auxiliary fence screwed to the miter gauge. On a radial arm saw, set the blade ‘at 90° and the arm at 45°, Clamp the bottom of the ‘molding toan auxiliary fence clamped tothe regu- Jar fence and rest the top of the molding on the table, — WM. DRAWINGS BY KATHY BRAY ‘Attach this entire assembly to the shelf with glue and 1'/cin,, #8 flat head screws angled upward through the spacers, as shown in the drawing. Drill pilot holes for these screws to avoid splitting the spacers. ‘The crown molding comes next. It's easiest to sand the molding before cutting and installing, Take extra care to sand off “chatter” marks left by the molding cutter. ‘These faint ridges run perpendicular to the grain. They may not be obvious at first, but they'll show up once you 30k AMERICAN WOODWORKER apply stain. You can see them by holding the piece at various angies to the light. Now you're ready to cut the molding. Crown molding miter joints can be tricky, so I suggest that you cut a few practice joints before you cut the finished molding. The sidebar shows how to do it. Once you've cut the molding, assemble the pieces without glue to check the alignment; small gaps at the corners can be closed by twisting the molding a little. When‘Nook atthe back reveals the secret. Crown ‘molding is nailed tothe top and bottom, and {nterckng hangers mount the shel ox everything fits, attach the molding to the shelf and bottom with glue and small finishing nails, as shown in the drawing. Set all the nails with a small nail set and fill the holes with wood putty. Apply whatever finish you like. I finished my shelf with stain followed by two coats of poly- urethane. I rubbed out the second coat with 000 steel wool. Imounted my shelf with concealed shelfhangers (available from Constantines, 2050 Eastchester Road, Bronx, NY 10461). One part of the hanger mounts on the back of the shelf; a second part mounts on the wall, and the ‘two pieces interlock. A. Walter Morrison is an engineer and woodworker in North- port, NY. He wrote about router techniques in the Winter 1985 issue of AMERICAN WOODWORKER. JULY/AUGUST 1988 A 31BUYER'S GUIDE T0 DOWELING JIGS EXER efore the advent of low-cost nails and screws, our woodworking ancestors rein- forced joints with wooden pegs. Today, in spite ofall the fancy fasteners and sup strong glues on the market, many woodworkers still prefer dowel joints for certain applications. Granted, dow- cls won't solve every joinery problem, nor do they always make the strongest joint. For example, a mortise- and-tenon is a better choice for joints subject to racking and cross-grain movement such as leg-to-rail joints on bles or chairs. Likewise, you can hardly beat a dovetail joint for strength where two boards meet at a corner. But dowels work just as well as nails or screws (ifnot better) for reinforcing various types of butt, “T" and miter joints The secret to making a successful dowel joint lies in precisely aligning the mating holes and drilling them exactly perpendicular to the face of the joint. You can ac- complish this with a simple 90° drill guide such as the Portalign (available from U.S. General, 100 Commercial St, Plainview, NY 11803) and small, pointed-metal plugs, called dowel centers. Here's how to use them, Measure, mark and drill the holes in the first board. Insert dowel centers in the holes, then press the mating board against the dowel-center points to mark the hole centers on the mating board. This setup is a doweling jig of the simplest kind. A more sophisticated, factory-made jig makes the job a whole lot easier. This type of jig not only locates the holes, it also guides the drill for an accurate, perpendicular hole. Ttested 11 different doweling jigs for accuracy, versatility and ease of use. Surprisingly, I had good results with all of them—not a lemon in the bunch. I was also woopworker 32k AMERICAN EXER What They Do, How They Work and What They Cost surprised to find that no two figs operate in quite the same way. Each jig uses a different approach to do es- sentially the same thing. When edge-joining stock under 1 in. thick, I prefer to center the dowel holes. Self-centering jigs (Dowl-It, Gen- eral 841, Dowel Master and Dowel Quick) automatically center the holes on the stock. The Dowel Quick won't make off-center holes, but the other self-centering jigs will if you place a shim between the stock and one of the clamp jaws. The rest of the jigs enable you to drill holes ‘on- or off-center by adjusting the position of the drill- guide bushings. All of the jigs have drill-guide bushings for the most commonly used dowel sizes—'"e, “is, and “isin, Several of them also include bushings for larger dowels and metric sizes, either as standard or optional accessories. Which jig you choose will depend on how much dow- ling you plan to do, what types of joints you want to make, and the size of stock you work with most often, Some jigs make only a few joints; others are more versatile. Make sure the jig you select will make the joints you want. Also, consider the minimum and maximum board thickness each jig will handle. Your pocketbook may also have a say in the matter—prices range from under $15 to about $130, The prices quoted are manufacturers’ suggested retail prices.DOWEL CRAFTER MODEL DC-125 This durable, cast-aluminum jig has twin revolving- turret bushing blocks which enable you to drill holes in pairs without unclamping and repositioning the jig for the second hole. This is especially handy for doweling cabinet face frames where you usually want two dowels in each butt joint. Of course, you can also drill single holes with this jig as well. The Dowel Crafter works with "Vé, i, sand "sin. dowels in stock from ‘/ to 2'/ in. thick. To index the guide holes, you loosen two set screws with.an Allen wrench (provided), revolve the turrets, then tighten the screws to lock them in place. This jig isn’t self-centering, but I had no problem centering the holes by eye. Besides, the paired holes don’t have to be dead center, or even in line with each other, to assure perfect alignment of holes in the mating boards, The jig joins boards edge-to-edge, edge-to-end and end. toend. Only one index line across the joint is required to drill the holes for two dowels at once. You clamp the first board into one side of the jig, drill the holes, then clamp the mating board in the other side and drill from the opposite direction, The jig is "self-aligning” in the sense that the pair of holes in the second board will be ‘a mirror image of those in the first. Because you clamp the boards into the jig face-side- down against the jig base, you can join boards of un- equal thickness and the face side will always be perfectly flush. I especially like this feature for edee-jo boards into large panels because it minimizes the time spent sanding the face side flush. If you don’t want the faces to be flush, it's easy enough to place a shim under one of the board: Compared to jigs that make only one hole at a the Dowel Crafter effectively halves the amount of time spent clamping and unclamping the stock to move it. The jig comes with a large, hex-head bolt for attaching a length of 1x2 to the jig to make a “swiveling jig holder” that you then clamp into a bench vise. The or05 BEA MANOA. holder enables you to rotate the jig toa comfortable drilling positon when working with smaller boards, The extra-deep guide-bushing holes are machined to much closer tolerances than most of the other jigs I tried, The bits fit snugly in the holes with no slop. The manufacturer offers optional guide-bushing sets: one for drilling “hein. and ‘i-in, holes; one for "-in. holes, and one for 6, 8, 10, and 12 mm holes, as well as a four-piece brad-point bit set for the bushing sizes that come with the DOWL-IT MODEL 1000 This jig consists of a hardened-steel bushing block with five holes (4, he, “ie and '/ in), sandwiched between two extruded-aluminum clamp jaws that can ac- ‘commodate boards up to 22 in, thick. Index marks on the block indicate the center of each hole, which you view through cutouts in one of the jaws to align the jig to reference marks on the stock. A T-handled center screw clamps the jaws onto the edge of the board (actually, the jig looks and works much like a small bench vise). When you tighten the jaws, the bushing holes automatically center over the stock. To drill off-center holes, ‘you place a shim between one of the jaws and the stock. found the Dowl-It 1000 to be accurate and simple to use, You don't need any tools to adjust it, and there are no loose bushings to lose. Although the Dowl-It is essen- JULY/AUGUST 19ly limited to edge- and end-joining, it will join stock up to 2'/ in, thick. You could also use it to face-join boards up to 2' in. wide. The jig's large clamping surface makes it easy to drill round stock, which is difficult, or nearly impossible with the other jigs. Talso tested the Dowl-It 2000, which is basically the same as the mode! 1000 except that it comes with six re- moveable guide bushings that enable you to drill paired holes (spaced "is in. center-to-center) for the '/s, is and “isin, sizes ($41.95). GENERAL MODEL 840 This jig has several good features. The revolving-turret bushing block has six hole sizes (Vie, ‘ls, “he and "h in,); more than any other jig. And, although designed aly for edge-joining applications, it can also face- join boards up to 4" in. wide. After setting the selected hole size, you clamp the jig fon the stock. Then you slide the bushing carrier on its rods to locate the hole either on- or off-center. Finally, you lock the bushing turret in place with a knurled set screw and drill the hole. Although the jig is not self-centering, an accurate measurement scale on one of the rods helps you position the hole after measuring the board thickness. ‘The General 840 is also sold by Sears under the Crafts- man brand. AP AMERICAN WOODWORKER GENERAL MODEL 841 New from General, this high tech-looking jig is designed to complement the model 840, The 841 has three bushing sizes—'/, ie and " in., and will handle stock from "2 to 1' in. thick. Although restricted to making edge-to-face joints, it does this quickly and accurately in stock of unlimited width, The jig has a dial, calibrated in easy-to-read '/u-in. in- crements, which you set to the thickness of the boards to be joined. The dial settings are color coded to indicate which size drill bit to use for each. Setting the dial automatically centers the appropriate hole on the stock. To make a right-angle joint, you clamp the boards in a bench vise, face-to-face, then clamp the jig on the stock The jig has two sets of bushings at right angles to each other, which enable you to drill mating holes in the face of one board and the edge of the other. By drilling holes in both boards at once, you eliminate the possibility of misaligning the holes because you're not working to separate reference marks on each board. To make "T” joints, you first drill all the holes in the edge or end of one board, insert the dowels, then use each dowel as a guide to drill a mating hole in the face of the adjoining board. found this jig to be the quickest and easiest to use for Joining large panels, such as for a cabinet carcase. A few points worth noting: First, you can't corner-join boards or panels of two different thicknesses. Second, you must use the dowel size indicated for the thickness of the stock you're joining. For example, you have to use a ‘hwin owel when joining "in. stock, which could mean an extra trip to the hardware store if you don't happen to have that particular dowel size on hand (a 'e dowel works just as well on" in, stock), The hardened-steel bushings fit my drill bits snugly, with no slop, and I found the self-centering dial mechanism to be highly accurate. Like the General 840 jig, the 841 is also sold by Sears under the Craftsman label.KAUFMAN’S DOWELING JIG If you want a sturdy, nicely-machined jig for produc tion work, this is the one I'd recommend. At $129.95, it's a bit pricey for this weekend woodworker (I don’t do enough doweling to justify the cost), but I was tempted by several of its unique features. The best of these is a bushing block that swivels and locks at any angle up to 45°. This enables you to edge-join boards with beveled edges. (The Marples jig will also do this, but requires ‘more setup time.) This feature opens up a number of pos- sibilities, from hexagonal speaker cabinets to staved con- tainers. The jig comes with three sets of removable hardened- steel bushings (three each in "4, “ie and % in. sizes). The bushings have knurled ends so you can install them by hand. The jig enables you to drill three holes at once (spaced on “s in. centers) without moving the stock. ‘Another thing I like about the jig is that all adjustments are made with large, knurled knobs—no tools required. But the slickest feature of all is a toggle-type hold-down clamp. Once you've adjusted the clamp for stock thickness, a simple flick of the toggle lever clamps the stock firmly in position: no screwing and unscrew- ing the clamp each time you need to move the stock. ‘The jig is heavy enough (3.65 Ib.) that you can simply set it on your bench when doweling small stock. For Jong, unwieldy boards, you can clamp the jig in a bench vise with the jig table flush to the bench surface. How- ever, you'll need to mount the vise with the top of the jaws positioned 1 in. below the bench surface. When working with large panels, you clamp the panel to your bench, then clamp the jig onto the panel's edge and move it along to wherever you want to drill. Like the Dowel Crafter jig, Kaufman's Jig will join boards of un- equal thickness and the face, or decorative, side of the joint will always be flush. found Kaufman's Jig to be among the easiest to use SA for making accurate holes for edge or end joints. But it won't drill holes in the face of a board (to make such a joint, the inventor makes a wooden guide block first and uses that to guide his drill) Also, the jig isn’t self-centering. To center the guide bushings on the stock, I had to mark a centerline along the board edge and align it by eye to an index mark on the backside of the bushing block. Once set up for a particular thickness of stock, however, I could drill perfectly-centered holes all day long without resetting the jig. STANLEY MODEL 04-059 Some of you old-timers may remember this jig as the Stanley No. 59. Its basic construction has remained virtually unchanged since the jig was first introduced back i al was made of cast iron and had ed for use with auger bits, back ‘when bit braces were popular.) Now, the jig body is die- cast aluminum, with bushing sizes that fit twist and brad-point bits, (By the way, auger bits or spade bits don't work nearly as well with any of these jigs.) The Stanley comes with six separate bushings, in sizes from isto vzin, Each individual bushing locks into aslig- ing bushing carrier, one at a time, by means of a thumb- screw. Although the jig is not self-centering, an accurate graduated scale on the jig body enables you to center the hole after measuring the stock thickness. You simply align the chosen bit size (stamped on the carrier) to the scale, then lock the carrier in place with a wing nut, You then lock the bushing into the carrier. This accurate, durable jig was among the easiest to set up, but it wasn't as fast as some of the others for repeti- tive doweling because you have to reposition and re- clamp the jig for each hole. ‘CONTINUEDMARPLES MODEL M148 Made by Record Marples Ltd. in England, this jig the most versatile ofall the jigs I tested. But you pay a price for this versatility—not only in dollars and cents, but in the amount of time it takes to set up the thing for each joint. There are lots of adjustments to make. The jig consists of two polished-steel rods with a sta tionary reference head at one end and a sliding clamp jaw at the other. Between these are two bushing carriers that slide along the rod to locate the holes. Each carrier has an adjustable fence to locate the bushings on- or off- center and a knurled screw to lock the carrier in place. The jig also includes a detachable C clamp for certain edge-joining operations. The jig includes screw-in bushing sets in five sizes: Js, Siwand "iin. as well as 6 mm and 10 mm. The steel rods supplied with the jig enable you to dowel boards up to 6'/ in, wide. Optional rod sets are available for 12'/s and 18'/ in, capacities. You can also buy additional bushing carriers and bushings to increase the number of holes you can drill at one time 1 don't have room here to describe how to set up the Jig for each of the many joints it will make—the instructions that come with it do a good job of that—in English, German, French and Spanish. I had no trouble following the instructions, but, as I said, the jig takes a bit longer to set up than the others. The jig is well made, however, and it's the only one other than Kaufman's Jig that will dowel beveled edges (although the length of the stock ‘you can join is limited by the length of the guide rods) WOLFCRAFT DOWEL MASTER MODEL 4660 The Dowel Master is a self-centering jig that makes edge-to-edge and edge-to-face (corner and “T”) joints. The well-machined, extruded aluminum body contains three integral hardened-stee! bushings for drilling M4, ‘is and % in. holes. Two screw-in plastic knobs serve both as centering pins and set screws to lock down detachable guide fences. To drill holes in the edge of a board, you screw the knobs into threaded holes keyed to the bushing size you've chosen. Then you place the jig on the stock and rotate it to center the hole over the edge. After drilling the first hole, you insert a dowel into it and use the dowel as a guide to set two slotted, aluminum fences to center the jig for successive holes. One of the fences also serves to align the jig for drilling holes in the edge or face of the mating board (again, using the dowels for guides) To face-drill the second board for a corner joint, you clamp it on top of the first doweled board, then invert the jig to drill the mating holes. (When you invert the jig, you'll need to reset the depth-stop collar on your drill bit.) 36 A AMERICAN. WOODWORKERWOLFCRAFT DOWEL PRO MODEL 3751 The Dowel Pro has the same size bushings and makes the same basic joints as the Dowel Master, but it oper- ates differently. This jig consists of two cast-aluminum clamps. One clamp has three sets of integral bushings that enable you to drill mating dowel holes in both boards at once. The other clamp serves as a spacer, as shown in the photo, Unlike the other jigs tested, this jig also serves as a clamp to fasten the stock to the workbench, so no extra clamps are needed. ‘The Dowel Pro was easy to align to the marks on my boards, and the hole alignment was accurate. But the Dowel Pro has two limitations. First, it’s not self-centering. Second, there's no way to locate the holes exactly where you want them—on- or off-center— without shi ming the stock. Also, the fixed-hole location limits the maximum stock thickness to about "4 in. (if you want the holes to be reasonably close to center). And, the throat capacity of the clamp limits the thickness of the workbench to between 1'/s to 2'/ in., depending on the thickness of the stock you're doweling, (The thicker the stock, the thinner the bench top must be.) WOLFCRAFT DOWEL QUICK MODEL 4641 The Dowel Quick works on the same principle as the Dowel Master, by using dowels in the edge of one board to locate holes in the edge or face of the mating board The least expensive jig tested, the Dowel Quick enables you to drill '4, “is and ‘sin, holes in stock up to 1+ in, thick. Made of plastic with hardened-stec! bushings, the jig has four posts protruding from the jig body. You place the posts over the edge of the board to center the hole. A slotted fence, held in place by two machine serews and nuts, indexes to a scale on the jig body to locate holes in the edge on face of the mating board, This jig was just as easy to set up and use as the more expensive Dowel Master, and performed about as well If you buy a Dowel Quick, I suggest epoxying the machine-screw nuts in place So they won't fall off and get lost a Jim Barrett is a woodworking and home improvement writer living in Morgan Hill, California. ‘CONTINUED suty/auoust rye koa?DOWELING TIPS A ter making a halt docen or 9 joints with each of the jigs, I got pretty good at using them. But did make a few mistakes along the way. Talso learned a few things that make doweling jigs easier to use, which I'll pass along here, © Clamp the board squarely in the jig so the board surface comes in full contact with the jig body. Sloppy clamping affects hole accuracy. # You can use a twist bit for drilling, but a spurless brad-point bit makes a cleaner hole. Do not use brad-point bits with flaired cutting tips (spurs)—I wore the spurs off one of these bits after passing it through a jig's hardened steel guide bushings just a few times, Result: a dull bit. Which brings me to my next piece of advice: Before you start drilling, make sure the bit is inserted all the way into the guide bushing. Your bit will stay sharper longer, and you'll be less likely to damage the guide bushing Don't overtighten the jig clamps—you'll have a hard time loosening them, place undue stress on the jig, and possibly mar the wood. On all of the Jigs tested, the clamps required only light to mod- erate hand tightening to hold the stock firmly in place. © Clamp the stock securely to the workbench. You don't want to be chasing the jig all over the bench while drilling, © Complete the entire doweling procedure at once. In other words, don’t drill the holes one day and dowel the joints the next. Changes in temperature ‘and humidity, even over a short period of time, can swell or shrink the boards enough to affect hole alignment. If the jig has screw-in bushings, keep the extra ‘ones in the same box as the jig, along with any screwdrivers or wrenches required to adjust it. I like to put the bushings (and dowels) in Ziploc sand- wich bags to keep them from rattling around loose inthe box and getting lost. # You'll need a depth gauge or depth-stop collars for your drill bits so you don’t drill the holes too deep. Actually, Ifind stop collars somewhat of a nuisance to use—a piece of vinyl tape wrapped around the drill bit works just as well, IB. SOURCES Yoxcccy aaaelaetbg pe yi from the following companies, DOWEL CRAFTER DC-125, Constantine's 2050 Eastchester Ra. Bronx, NY 10461 Garrett Wade 161 Ave. ofthe Americas New York, NY 10013) ‘The Woodworker's Store 21801 Industral Blvd. Rogers, MN 55374 DOWLAT 1000 Garrett Wade Highland Hardware 1045 N. Highland Ave, NE Atlanta, GA 30306 ee Valley Tools Ltd 2680 Queensview Dr. Ottawa, Ontario K2B SHS Canada ‘Shopsmith Ine 3931 Image Dr Dayton, OH 45414 Tool city 14136 E, Firestone Blvd. Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670 ‘Trend-Lines 375 Beacham St Chelsea, MA 02150 Woodcraft Supply Corp. 41 Atlantic Ave, Box 4000 Woburn, MA 01888 DOWL-T 2000 Fine Tool Shops 170 West Ra. PO. Box 7081 Portsmouth, NH 03801 Garrett Wade Highland Hardware Lee Valley Too! City Trend Lines Wooderaft ‘The Woodworker's Store DOWLAT 4000 (not tested) Tool City GENERAL 40 Silvo Hardware Co, GUN, Broadway Milwaukee, WI Tools on Sale 216W. Th St St.Paul, MN $5102 GENERAL 841 Garrett Wade Highland Hardware Shopsmith, Inc. Silvo Hardware Co ‘Tools on Sale US. General 100 Commercial St. Plainview, NY 11803 [KAUFMAN’S DOWELING JIG Quality Craft Tools, In. 1703 E, Monroe St. Goshen, IN 46526 LEICHTUNG (not tested) Leichtung DRI Workshops 484 Commerce Parkway Cleveland, O# 44128 MARPLES: (Constantine's Fine Tool Shops Garrett Wade Highland Hardware Lee Valley Tools Trend Lines| Wooderaft STANLEY 04.059 US. General DOWEL MASTER 4660 ‘The Woodworkers Store DOWEL PRO 3751 Fine Tool Shops Leichtung Woodcraft DOWEL QUICK 4641 Fine Tool Shops Leichtung Woodcraft VERMONT AMERICAN (not tested) US. General MANUFACTURER'S LIST Dowel Crafter Model DC-125 Kaufman's Doweling Jig The Dowel Craft Company Quality Craft Tools, Ine: 2542 Tartan Drive 1703 E, Monroe Street Santa Clara, CA 95051 Goshen, IN 46526 Dowl-It Models 1000 and 2000 Marples Model M148 Wolferaft Dowel Pro, Dowel Master and Dowel Quick Wolferaft of America, Inc. 1107 Lunt Avenue Unit #6 Schaumburg, IL 60193 Leichtung Model 84624 The Dowl-It Company Woodcraft Supply Corp. (Distributor) PO. Box 147 41 Atlantic Avenue Hasting, MI 49088 PO, Box 4000 ‘Woburn, MA 01888 General Models 840 and 841 General Hardware Mfg. Co,,Inc. Stanley Model 04-059 80 White Street Stanley Tools New York, NY 10013, Leichtung DRI Workshops 4944 Commerce Parkway Cleveland, OH 44128How Many Do You Really Need? WOODWORKING TCT) ost woodworkers agree that you can never have enough clamps, but that advice doesn't help much if you're trying to equip your shop. If enough is never enough, when do you stop? Where do you even start? One look at all the clamps in the tool catalogs is enough to confuse anybody Take heart. You don’t need to buy every clamp that comes down the road. A small but varied selection of clamps will get you through most projects. Before I tell, you which clamps I prefer, let's look at what is available. Basically, there are three broad types of clamp clamps for big clamping jobs like cabinets and long ‘CAM-ACTION cLaMPshort clamps for smaller jobs, and specialty clamps for things like miters and odd shapes. Let's start with short, clamps, since they are probably the most familiar and most often used. Everyone knows what a “C” clamp is. Occasionally you'll hear them called carriage clamps, a term left over from the days when they actually were used in making carriages. Rod Nimtz, a clamp expert at the Warren Tool Group, assures me that the clamps are named not for carriages but for their shape. But an English friend disputes this, saying anyone naming the clamp for its shape would use the letter "G," as the British do. (Clamps, Their History and Their Uses,” is available free from the Warren Tool Group, P.O. Box 68, Hiram, OH 44234.) In any event, C clamps can apply great force, but they take time to adjust. They're usually made of cast iron, and the larger ones are quite heavy. Aluminum C clamps are lighter weight, but all mine have snapped under stress. Idon’t recommend them. C clamps are measured by their maximum capacity, which commonly ranges from I to 12 ins. A 1-in, clamp usually has a J-in, throat; a 3-in. clamp usually has a 2- in, throat, and an 8-in. clamp usually has a 4-in. throat. Deep-throated C clamps with up to a 6-in. throat are also readily available, but they are heavy and expensive. Most hardware stores have a good selection of C clamps. Look for a strong frame, sturdy threads, and a swiveling metal pad that is well attached to the screw. ‘Wooden handscrews are the traditional clamping tool for woodworkers. Because of the two adjusting screws, the jaws can be set at any angle. As a result, handscrews can grip both odd and flat shapes. Handscrews come in various sizes. Jaw length ranges from 4 to 16 in., half of which is usable for clamping. Handscrews are bulky, slow to adjust, and, compared to C clamps, expensive. You can save some money by buying handscrew kits instead of finished handscrews (available from Lee Valley Tools Ltd., 2680 Queensview Dr., Ottawa, Ontario K2B 8H6, Canada) Another type of small clamp is the Hatakane clamp, a small, light-duty clamp from Japan that looks like a miniature bar clamp, The shortest is 3 in. ong; the longest is 36 in. The short Hatakane clamps are made in either ‘aluminum or brass, and the longer ones are steel If you make small items, these tiny bar clamps may be just the ticket. Fast-action clamps, sometimes called “F clamps,” have a fixed jaw and a movable jaw that slides on a lightweight steel bar. Since lengths begin at 6 in,, they can replace C clamps. In fact they are better: They adjust quickly and have relatively deep throats. Fast-action clamps come in lengths up to 3 ft, and a long clamp will work for shorter distances, too. The slender bar limits the force that can be applied, but they are among my favorite clamps. After all, if the joints fit, you don’t need a lot of clamping force anyway Fast-action clamps are lightweight, easy to handle, andtheir quick action minimizes frustration. They are inexpensive too, so I can afford to buy enough of them. Aheavy-duty version of the fast-action clamp is available in lengths from 8 to 36 in. They have a much deeper throat than standard fast-action clamps and heavier bar to match, but they cost a lot more. ‘Wooden cam-action clamps are another variation on the fast-action theme. One wooden jaw is fixed to a steel bar, the other jaw slides up to the work. A quick-action cam locks the bottom jaw against the work. Designed for light clamping jobs, they will apply about as much pressure as the smaller fast- action clamps. Cam-action clamps are available with up toan 8-in, throat but, because of their design, these clamps can’t reach over a lip as can aC clamp or a fast-action clamp. Long Clamps Big work requires longer clamps. Probably the most familiar of these is the standard pipe clamp. A moveable jaw, held in place by a clutch, slips over the pipe at one end; a fixed head with a crank handle and an adjustable jaw screws to the other end. Pipe- clamp fixtures are available for "-,"/-and. Yein, pipe. The pipe must be purchased separately. Black gas pipe is recommended. T've always wondered why. Dan Holman of the Adjust- able Clamp Company, the firm that makes “Pony” pipe- clamp fixtures, says this is because black pipe is cheaper and more readily available than galvanized water pipe. He also says that variances in the diameter of imported pipe, which is galvanized to survive the rigors of ship- ping, can cause problems. But will galvanized pipe ‘work? “It's used every day, with no problem,” Holman says. pe clamps are popular because they are inexpensive and the same fittings can be used on both long or short pipe. If you have several pipe clamps, you can thread both ends of the pipe, then link the pipes into one long pipe using standard plumbing couplings. A. drawback, and I think a major one, is that the clutch scars the pipes, and the sharp metal edges it leaves can seriously damage your work. I also find them particularly heavy and unwieldy. Jorgensen makes a reversible pipe-clamp fixture that, ‘works differently from standard pipe-clamp fixtures. A fixed jaw screws on the end of the pipe. The other jaw, the one with the crank handle, has a clutch that allows it to slide on the pipe. You can also turn each jaw around so you can apply pressure outward, toward the ends of the pipe. No matter which way you turn the Jaws, there's full 2/2 in, throat—much more thana standard pipe clamp. Another variation is the double pipe clamp. The pipes straddle the work—one pipe on either side. This puts equal stress on both sides of the work in an effort to avoid bending either the stock or the pipes. Bear in mind these clamps are twice as heavy and twice as expensive as standard pipe clamps. ‘Some long clamps use a board instead of a pipe, eliminating the problem of scarred pipe. Sometimes calledclamp heads, these fixtures are reasonably priced, but by the time you purchase ‘wood, they can be more expensive than pipe clamps and almost as expensive as bar clamps. This brings us to bar clamps, named for the 2- to 7-ft. bar on which the fixtures slide. While more expensive than pipe clamps, bar clamps are unmatched when really heavy pressure is required. The traditional steel bar can be heavy, but Jorgenson's new bar clamps with a U-shaped channel of extruded aluminum are wonderful. They may not exert as much force, but their light weight makes them easy to handle. These, too, are among my favorite clamps. (Available from Tools on Sale, Woodcraft and Garrett Wade, see "Sources.”) ‘BAR CLAMP Specialty Clamps There are all sorts of specialty clamps on the market Some catalogs have an entire page devoted to miter clamps alone. There are one-piece miter clamps that adjust four ways to surround a frame; miter vises that hold the two pieces of wood at a right angle; individual springs that grip both sides of a mitered joint and dozens of other clever devices. Professional picture framers, who make almost noth- JuLy/auoust 191 aoSpecialty clamps come in all shapes and sizes for all sorts of clamping jobs: Miter clamps fo frame ‘making, edging clamps for applying edge banding, fdge-sluing clamps to eliminate bowing when you're clamping up a panel, multifunction ets clamping large or oddly-shaped objects 1. Snug Clamp 2.4-Way Equi Pressure Edge-Giuing Clamp 3. Sylvax Jet Clamp ‘System 4. Vise Grip, Model 3108 5. Spring clamp 6. Hatakane clamps 7. Veneer Pipe clamp 8 Miter clamp 9. Universal Clamp, Model 70 10. Pony 3-Way Edge Clamp 11, Band clamping except miter joints, use a single heavy-duty miter vise. They join one corner at a time, use a fast setting glue, and reinforce the joint with a nail or staple. Person- ally, I'm not fond of miter vises, because I find it difficult to position both pieces exactly right. Since I only make picture frames occasionally, I simply use masking tape at all four corners, @ convenient “vise” for many situ- ations. Band clamps encircle an object and apply even pressure, They work well on frames, circles, curves and irregu- lar shapes. Heavy-duty models have a canvas or steel web, while the light-duty type has a slightly stretchy ny Jon web. The clamps have a mechanism to tighten the band securely after they are cinched by hand. Spring clamps look like large metal clothes pins with particularly strong springs. Four sizes have a maximum ‘opening of 1, 2, 3, and 4 in, They are excellent for holding small pieces in place. ‘The Vise-Grip Company has applied their spring-lock- i principle to a line of clamps. The plier-like version opens to 4 in., while other models mount one jaw on a bar, giving up to a 24-in. span. Edging clamps fasten at the edge of a board to exert force against trim. Self-contained edging clamps resem- blea C clamp with screws at the ends and center of the C. Edging attachments are also available for cam-action clamps and some fast-action clamps. Universal's "Short Clamp” is a novel design that does much the same job as. bar clamp, even though it is only 14 in, long. One end of the aluminum clamp grips the stocka few inches from the joint while a jaw applies pressure from the other end. These are useful on very long pieces or for pulling shelves into cabinet sides. Because they span a short distance, they eliminate bowing, but you'll need two of these clamps to replace one bar clamp. (Available from Trend Lines). Another innovative clamp, designed specifically for edge-gluing boards, has two wooden bars that apply pressure to the top and bottom of the work as well a5 the edges. This keeps the table top (or whatever you're gluing) from bowing. Plastic pads to cover the metal faces of your clamps are a nice addition to any clamp collection. They save the nuisance of using wooden blocks to protect your work, as well as the annoyance of trying to hold them place as you tighten the clamp. Unfortunately, I have not found pads for the fast-action F clamps, which seems surprising, considering the popularity of these clamps. {As you can see, the list of available clamps is long. What should you buy? Naturally that depends on the type of work you are doing. Assess your situation, What kinds of articles do you make? What kind of clamps did you need for your last project? Buy what you need now, So you will have them on hand for your next project. Clamps are important tools that deserve careful thought and a reasonable investment. Here are my suggestions for a basic set of clamps: Four 12-in. fast-action clamps. Six 24-in. fast-action clamps, Six 2¥/-in. C clamps. ‘Two cam-action clamps with an Four pipe clamp fixtures. Four 2-in, spring clamps. One roll of 'é-in, masking tape. Shopping the mail-order catalogs, the price of this set is about $150. Enough pipe to make two 4-ft. clamps and two 6-ft, clamps costs $40 at my local hardware store, and that includes cutting the pipe and threading it. Total cost for the set: $190. If you can afford it, you might want to substitute two 4-foot and two 6-foot aluminum bar clamps for the heavy pipe clamps. ‘You could also substitute 9.in. deep-throat clamps for the cam clamps. This puts your total up to about $250, but it's worth it, I think. It may scem that even the cheaper set is too expensive, but clamps are as important as any other tool. Try gluing up that carefully-built piece of furniture without them. A. W. Curtis Johnson is a contributing editor of AMERICAN WOODWORKER. SOURCES ‘CONSTANTINE'S, 2050 Eastchester R. Bronx, NY 10461 ‘THE FINE TOOL SHOPS, INC. 170 West Rd, P.O. Box 7091 Portsmouth, NH O3801, GARRETT WADE 16 Ave. of the Americas New York, NY 10013 HIGHLAND HARDWARE 1045 N. Highland Ave, NE. Atlanta, GA 30306 LEE VALLEY TOOLS LTD. 2680 Queensview Dr. (Ottawa, Ontario K2B 8H Canada SSILVO HARDWARE CO. GIN, Broadway ‘Milwaukee, WI 53202 TOOLS ON SALE 216 West 7th St St.Paul, MN 55102 TREND LINES 375 Beacham St Chelsea, MA 02150 WETZLER TOOL co, PO. Box 175, Rt. 611 Mt. Bethel, PA 18343, ‘woopcrAFT 41 Atlantic Avenue, PO. Box 4000, Woburn, MA O1885 THE WOODWORKERS’ STORE 21801 Industral Blvd. Rogers, MN 55374 WOODWORKER'S SUPPLY OF NEW MEXICO 5604 Alameda Pl, NE Albuquerque, NM 87113Your Kids Will Have a Ball High-Stepping Around on These Adjustable STILTS BY FRED MATLACK 44 A AMERICAN, WOODWORKER antaraise? Here's theold- fashioned way to get one. These stilts will lift you above the crowd miore quickly than any amount of positive thinking. As a matter of fact, we've included room for growth, As you master each level, you can easily move up to the next Start by visiting your local lumberyard and picking ‘out a 5/4 hardwood stair tread and two six-foot lengths of straight-grained hardwood handrail (I'fzin. dia wooden rod with one flat side). Avoid handrail made of shorter pieces finger-jointed into one length—they may not be strong enough. You'll also need four “4x3 in. round-head stove bolts and four '/-in. T nuts. Cut two foot-blocks from the stair tread, following the dimensions shown in the drawing (see Fig. 1). For strength, the grain should run parallel to that of the handrail, Rout a "-in. radius on the outside edges of each foot- block and on each end of the stilts. Counterbore each foot-block at four inches on center to accept two T nuts,and then drill “win, holes the rest of the way through Drill a series of 'é-in. holes through the lower portion of the stilts, to, as shown. Starting the holes on the handrail’s flat side makes drilling easier. Make sure the holes match the ones on the foot-blocks. ‘Sand the stilts and finish them with your favorite finish, Put the T nuts in the foot-blocks and bolt them to the stilts. Let your conscience be your guide, but I'd suggest setting the blocks as low as possible until the pilot logs alittle flight time. Learning to operate these marvels of engineering is no great challenge. Its easiest if you don’t hold the tops of the stilts in front of your body. Stand with the stilts be- hind your shoulders and with your arms passing down in front of the stilts. Grab the stilts at thigh level and pull them up, to keep them tight against your feet, and forward, to keep them snug against your shoulders. How's the view up there? A Fred Matlack heads the Rodale Design Department. DRAWING BY KATHY BRAY FIG. 1: STILTS jucysaucust 1988 & 45If You've Never Made a Stool Before, Start with This One CONTEMPORARY STOOL aes) his contemporary stool is the handiwork of Tom Stender, a furniture designer/builder in Boston, New York. Classical furniture is Stender’s specialty, but every now and then, he works up a contemporary piece like this one. With its, splayed legs, simple turnings and plank seat it reminds, me of the beautiful country “plank-bottom” chairs made a hundred and fifty years ago. But though it echoes the lines of an earlier age, Tom's simple, straightforward design places this stool firmly in the 20th Century. The stool is basically a turning project. The legs have a gentle taper, and the front and back rungs have a slight bulge or “belly” in the middle. The only parts wi any decoration at all are the side rungs, which have sin- es, a design element often found on old You can make the stool from any clear, straight grained hardwood. Turn the legs and rungs at slow speeds to prevent the stock from whipping. You may also need to use a steadyrest to support the stock in the middle, especially when turning the legs (see March/ April 1988 AW), All the turned parts have round tenons with shoulders. The strength of the stool and how well it holds up to daily use depends on how accurately you turn these tenons. They must fit precisely into their mortises without any play. Precision turning like this is traditionally done with calipers. Set the calipers to the precise diameter you want to turn and use them to check the turning as you pare it down to size. When the arms of the calipers slip over the turning, you've arrived at the proper diameter. Calipers, however, can be imprecise. You have to be careful not to apply too much pressure when you use the calipers. The arms will flex slightly if you force them over the turning and the turning will be too big. Calipers 46 A AMERICAN WOODWORKER A sizing gauge is useful for turing the tenons. ‘When the gauge slips over the tenon upto the step {see drawing) the tenon Is almost final diameter. [Remove wood carefully until the slot slips over the ‘tenon. also have to be held properly, with the arms perpendicular to the axis of the turning. If you hold them ata slight angle, the turning may be too small. Tprefer to make precision sizing gauges from hard- ‘wood or plywood scraps. These gauges aren't as versatile as calipers, since they aren't adjustable. But they are precise, they don’t flex, and since both “arms” have a large flat measuring surface, it’s easier to hold them inthe proper relationship to the turning. They are most use ful for checking the diameter of cylindrical turnings such as tenons, and come in handy when you have to produce multiple parts with the same diameter. My sizing gauges are nothing more than a board with aslot and a hole in it as shown in the drawing. The tiny jog or step in one side of the slot is a built-in warning de- vice. When the gauge slips over the turning up to the step, the piece is nearing the final diameter. Here's how to turn the legs and rungs. Cut the leg and rung blanks about 1 in. longer than the finished length. ‘Mount the blank between centers with the tenon end at the tailstock. Round the stock with a roughing gouge to a diameter about ‘Ws in. larger than the final diameter. Tur the waste at the end of the leg tenon to a diameter slightly smaller than the final tenon diameter so that, later on, you can slip the hole in the sizing gauge over the end of the tenon, Turn the tenon, checking the diameter frequently with the sizing gauge. When the gauge slips over the work up to the step, proceed carefully. You only have to remove a fraction of an inch before you arrive at the fi nal diameter. At this point, I prefer to continue "turning’ with 120-grit sandpaper instead of a skew. Sandpaper re moves stock more slowly than a turning tool and there's less chance of turning past the diameter I want. If you use this trick, wrap the sandpaper around the flat edge of a smalll scrap so you don’t round the tenon. When the gauge slips past the step, stop sanding. Re- ‘move the turning from the lathe, and make a final diame- ise 47 suur/aucustRUNG TENON DETAIL Make sizing gauge ‘from serap wood. DRAWINGS BY KATHY BRAY ter check by inserting the tenon in the hole in the gauge. If the fit is too tight, put the turning back on the lathe and continue sanding. When you finally get the fit you ‘want, don’t sand the tenon any more. Finish turning and sanding the rest of the leg (or rung), but leave the tenon, as itis After you turn the legs and rungs, rip the 12° bevel on the bottom of the seat. Most 10-in. tablesaws don't have the depth of cut required to saw this bevel completely through. Cut as deep as you can and finish sawing the bevel by hand. Alter you cut the bevel, drill the mortise holes in the seat and legs, (Be sure to use the same drill bits you used to make the turning gauges.) Because of the splayed legs, the mortises in this chair are at an angle, You can drill 48 A AMERICAN WOODWORKER them easily on the drill press. Tilt the table and use a V- block to support the legs. If you don’t have a drill press, ‘you can use a hand drill and guide it by eye. Here's how: Lay the pieces on the bench at the correct angle and make a pencil mark showing the angle and location of the mortise. Use the mark as a guide when drilling. You might be off a little, but a couple of degrees won't hurt. Dry assemble the stool to check the fit of the tenons in the holes. When you're satisfied with the fit, glue the parts together. Do any necessary touch-up sanding, and apply a finish. Nick Engler is @ contributing editor of AMERICAN WOOD- WORKER and owner of Bookworks, Inc., in West Milton, Ohio.TURNING Puta Ring Around Your Favorite Photo ‘ooking for a way to use up all those short ends of exotic wood you've accumulated over the years? Try turning picture frames. They're delightful to make and you need only minimal equipment: a small faceplate or screw chuck for your lathe, a hot-melt glue gun, a parting tool, icin. gouge or round-nose scraper and a long, strong- bladed knife. You'll also need a circular piece of ‘in. glass of course, Round plate glass (or mirror glass) ean obtained from a glass shop or you can cut circles your- self with the aid of a circular glass cutter (available from Woodcraft, 41 Atlantic Ave, P.0, Box 4000, Woburn, MA 01888). The diameter of your frame is limited only by the ea- pacity of your lathe and the material available. The draw ings provide the dimensions I used to make the 4 in. dia. frame shown in the photograph First, select a piece of softwood and screw it to the faceplate or screw chuck to make a combination glue chuck and mandrel. Turn the block to the diameter of the glass recess for the frame. Taper the sides very 5 slightly from back to front as shown in the drawing. Bandsaw a disk of wood for the picture frame. Glue BY JOHN SAINSBURY ‘Turma picture frame to set off a family photo. This little frame measures only 4 in. across. this block to the face of the glue chuck/mandrel with hot- melt glue. Bring up the tailstock to apply clamping pres sure as the glue sets. Using the gouge, turn the frame blank to the final di ameter. Reset the tool rest soit lies across the face of the blank and, with the parting tool, cut the glass recess in, the face of the blank. This recess must be deep enough to hold the glass, picture and cardboard backing piece: 4 in, should be adequate. Sand and finish the back side of the frame. Next, insert a knife between the picture frame and the glue chuck/mandrel. Tap the knife with a hammer to 1988 ka suty/auoust‘Turn a glue chuck/mandrel to match the diameter Bandsaw the frame blank and attach tothe give ofthe glass recess you'll use in the frame. chucl/mandrel with hot glue. Bring the talstoc. ‘up against the blank to apply pressure. ‘Tur the glass recess with a parting tool The ‘After sanding the back ofthe frame, separate the frame wil later be reversed and the recess frame from the glue chuck by driving the blade of Jammed over the end ofthe glue chuck/mandrel, «a knife between the two. Reverse the frame, pushing the glass recess over Gus Yen, gouge. the end ofthe glue chucl/mandrel. Turn the glass ‘opening slightly smaller than the recess for the lass. 50k AMERICAN Woo workerDRAWINGS BY KATHY BRAY 13. Reverse frame ‘lank and ft recess split the glue joint. Should the joint prove to be stub- bom, heat the knife and try again. (Heating will remove the temper, so don't heat a valuable knife.) Some glue will remain on the face of the glue chuck. To reuse the chuck, just heat this glue with a heat gun instead of applying additional glue. ‘An alternative technique is to cut the glass recess with a large-diameter Forstner or Multi-spur bit. This elimi- nates the glue-chuck process described above. Reverse the frame blank and push the glass recess over the end of the glue chuckimandrel. This should be a good push fit, but not too tight or the frame will split. Mark the diameter of the picture opening (slighty smaller than the diameter of the glass recess). Cut the opening with the parting tool, then shape the face of the frame with the gouge. Sand the frame and burnish with a handful of shavings. Apply a suitable finish while the frame is still on the lathe A John Sainsbury, of Brixham, Devon, England, is a former schoolmaster and sometime educational and technical con- sultant to Record-Marples, Lid. He is the author of many woodworking books. Jucyiaucust 1988 & $1Woodworker's ( Calendar ARKANSAS | EXHIBITION Little Rock: October I-November 8 ‘Tumed Wood Objects Show, Second Annual Exhibition and Sale. Open to the public. Gallery B, 11121 Rodney Parham Rd,, Little Rock, AR 72212. For more information call (501) 221- 0266. WORKSHOP Little Rock: July 11-15 Furniture Design and Construction ‘Workshop. Instructors: Ken Burnett and Tony Bilello. Gallery B, 11121 Rod- ney Parham Rd,, Little Rock, AR 72212. For more information cal (501) 221-0266. CALIFORNIA | EXHIBITION Santa Monica: October 28-30 The Sixth Semi-Annual Invitational Contemporary Crafts Market. Spon- sored by Roy Helms and Associates. In- WORKSHOP vitational show featuring the work of San Francisco: ‘over 200 craftspeople. The Santa October 1-8 ‘Monica Civic Auditorium, 1855 Main _Dory-Building Class. National Mari- 'St,, Santa Monica, CA 90403, For more time Museum Association, Building, information call (808) 836-7611 275, Crissy Field, San Francisco, CA 94129, For more information cal (415) WOODWORKING CONFERENCE 929.0202, Claremont: August 11-14 Southern California Woodworking Con- ference. Attendees will have the oppor meivbrahimedtitmsea: COLORADO | patcinhandson workshops Iitento WORKSHOPS slide presentations, view works in the ‘Snowmass Village: talleryand mingle with theartsis-Va- July 48 Fety of woodworking specatis will” Lamination, Istactor: Art Carpenter be featured, including wood-turning, Workshop will focus on laminatic furmituremaking,bos-bulldingand techniques. Participants wl ds Carving Accommodations available, and begin piece of laminated furni- Harvey Mudd College, Claremont,CA. ture or sculpture. Anderson Ranch FormoreinformationcontactSouthy Arts Cener5263 Owl Creek Rd, PO tm California Woodworking Confer. Box 5598, Snowmass Village, CO nce, 3825 W.139th't, Hawthorne, 81615. For more information call 303) 40250 213) 679-2485, oie, July 48 ‘Veneering, Marquetry and Inlay. In- structor: Silas Kopf. Workshop focuses ‘on the decorative use of veneers and in- lays. Instruction covers basic veneering techniques, marquetry, parquetry, ‘Compare Our Low Pri Gre! Stee seen — rea new sie —— WOOD PARTS FROM MIDWEST LLL LL AMERICAN 2 | WOODWORKER ose |S si: —|) Wants To Keep You = pam Satisfied! Viz"tontad fate =| CD mean] et T Toy Hn svi cee Our customer service department is Autre 100 nen a dedicated to making sure you're completely ‘SMOOTH SANDED HEARTS Ome aint satisfied with AMERICAN WOODWORKER magazine, Ifyou have problems with your bill or have any questions concerning your subscription, write us at the address below. Always enclose your current mailing label eae ee | | sowe can respond quickly. FREE Ww.PAge caTaLocue AMERICAN WOODWORKER ace sssace caracout | MIDWEST DOWEL WORKS Customer Service, Emmaus, PA 18098 ' Serena (215) 967-8154 52. A AMERICAN. WOODWORKERWoodworker's Calendar the design and production of beautiful ships between design, function and For more information call (303) 923- ‘on paper from rough sketching, ‘Snowmass Village, Colorado. ‘shop focuses on a wide range of mate. 923-3181 ‘CONTINUED, WOODWORKERS ; WORLD ™ intone oe eee LOCKWOOD OSCILLATING SPINDLE SANDER ‘Lina! & complete power toed Orum Sande aa Singiakemsrecr §g9Q00 piomenerereeen ares Has large 20 repaid Freight Sta table work ars. 21,1 PH 1725 Peneoe RPM. motorworm and geardrve 17 stake, i948 US. = S7 tres pe inte Madein U.S.A Se Ince 9 spindles, 8 eroat plate. "rRee facts: Se occ tho PLUS!! Sy em 100 FREE y Cat ToL Free SANDING - 11800)538-4200, xt6700 SLEEVES! } ES ‘WOW NFIMTEY VARIABLE FEED RATE revue mre ‘a. aua-omve Fen ston ate cary 136 Town Center Re, King of Prusia,PA 19406 @ (215) 268-3310 ew Fac AORASE rcs nee ee i Peek of rea tees ieee Steous ce ono ou he ar 1507 Litt ike, Lancaster, PA 7601 @ (717) 299-5264 Sorted te oak ae) Sas JuLy/AuGuST 1988 & $3TF ecaeeeticn | | SCREW. ! I I I ! Lense, WF ! se 128 Te? eee [eh nto las iy ! rel tea! for molding power jm I V siya See “one | V reamesnsetonacas I | penal wie Bowes 15900 West th Si ee mn wer sir Dalcraft, Inc. FULL SIZE FURNITURE DESIGN coasud meetes nan sme et ne ve wh guscsvecAROUSELS Ape olan pope! AL SePUNAUSsaa etsy esr arg So ‘aay Seal $650 Lage $080. SHO Fak FREE Bapng $100 scorn ad To oa. FREE wo ooo Seno US Custom Woodworking PS Bor 354, Dent M Kansas Cy KS e612 54k AMERICAN WOODWORKER Woodworker’s Calendar August 15 Handskills: Planemaking. Instructor: ‘Monroe Robinson. Workshop participants will construct one or more Kre- rnov-style wooden hand planes, learning inthe process the use and tuning of ‘both wood and metal planes. Anderson Ranch Arts Center, 5263 Owl Creek Ra, P.O. Box 5598, Snowmass Village, €081615. For more information call (03) 923-3181. August 1-5 Presentation Rendering. Instructor: Ronald B. Kemnitzer: Workshop will fo- ‘cus on the use of permanent markers in developing presentation renderings ‘of design concepts. Anderson Ranch ‘Arts Center, 5263 Owl Creek Rd, P.O, Box $598, Snowmass Village, CO 81615. For more information call (303) 923-3181, August 6-7 Furniture, Instructor: Sam Maloof. An- ‘nual two-day workshop on advanced furniture-making techniques. Work- shop will include slide lectures, demonstrations and discussions, Anderson Ranch Arts Center, 5263 Owl Creek Ra, P.O. Box 5598, Snowmass Village, C0 81615, For more information call (03) 923.3181 August 812 Shaker Furniture. Instructor: Walker ‘Weed. Workshop begins with a slide. lustrated talk focused on the ingenu- ‘and beauty of Shaker design and construction and progresses to hands ‘on shop work in which participants will build apiece of furniture oftheir choice. Anderson Ranch Arts Center, 5263 Owl Creck Rd, P.O. Box 5598, Snowmass Vilage, CO 81615, For ‘mote information call (303) 923-3181 August 15-19 Classic European Woodearving. In- structor: Nora Hall. Workshop will focus on old-style ornaments (leaves, scrolls, shels, flowers, grapes, etc.) as ‘ameans of teaching the classic Euro- pean carving styles. Anderson Ranch Arts Center, 5263 Owl Creek Rd., P.O. ‘Box $598, Snowmass Village, CO 81615, For more information call (303), 923-3181 August 15-26 ContemporaryDesign/Traditional Tech- nique. Instructor: Hugh Scriven. Par- ticipants will design and make a small cabinet incorporating drawers, with emphasis on imagination in design, the details ofthe design process and the use of hand-cut traditional joinery. Anderson Ranch Arts Center, 5263 Ow! Creek Rd., P.O. Box $598, Snowmass Village, CO 81615. For more information call (303) 923-3181 August 22-26 Advanced Carving. Instructor: Nora Hall. Participants will explore advanced high-relief and three-dimen- sional carving. Anderson Ranch Aris Center, 5263 Owl Creek Rd., P.O. Box '5598, Snowmass Village, CO 81615. For more information call (303) 923- 3181 ‘SYMPOSIUM ‘Snowmass Village: July 8-10 1988 Woodworking/Furniture Design ‘Symposium. Panelists include: Art Car penter, Robert DeFuccio, Hank Gilpin, Glenn Gordon, Silas Kopf, Daniel Mack and Gail Fredell Smith. Panel- ists will answer questions from symposium participants during individual presentations and panel discussions. Anderson Ranch Arts Center, 5263 Owl Creek Rd,, P.O, Box 5598, Snowmass Village, CO 81615. For more informa. tion cal (303) 923-3181. [CONNECTICUT WORKSHOPS Brookfield: July 16-17 Furniture Repair Workshop. Instruc- tor: Bob Flexner. Brookfield Craft Cen: ter, Route 25, Brookfield, CT 06804 For more information cai (203) 775- 4526, July 18-22 Furnituremaking. Instructor: Dan Ro- driguez. Brookfield Craft Center, Route 25, Brookfield, CT 06804. For ‘more information call (203) 775-4526, August 1-5 Boatbuilding: Cedar and Canvas Ca- noe, Instructor: Horace Strong. Brookfield Craft Center, Route 25, Brookfield, CT 06804, For more infor. ‘mation call (203) 775-4526. August 5-7 Modular Bark Basketry. Instructor: Kathleen Crombie, Brookfield Craft Center, Route 25, Brookfield, CT (06804, For more information call (203) 775-4826,Woodworker’s Calendar August 29-September 2 Boatbuilding: Ultralight Canoes. In- structor: Tom Hill, Brookfield Craft Center, Route 25, Brookfield, CT (06804. For more information call (203) 775-4826, WOODWORKING SHOW Stamford: August 27-30 International Woodworking Machin ery & Supply Fair. For more information call Show Manager, International Woodworking Fair’88, Cahners Exposi tion Group, 999 Summer St Stamford, CT 06905. For more information call (203) 964-0000, ILLINOIS WOODWORKING SHOW Rockford: October 7-9 Fifth Annual Chicago Show. Spon- sored by The Woodworking Associa tion of North America. The Metro ter, 300 Elm St., Rockford, TL 61101 For more information call (800) 521- 7623 or (603) 536-3876. TOWA EXHIBITION, Amana! August 20-21 Holefest '88. Sponsored by Personal- ized Wood Products, Inc, Demonstra- tions, wood exhibits and craft shows. Colony Village Restaurant, I-80 ‘Amana Exit 225, Amana, IA 52203. For ‘more information call (319) 622-3100, KENTUCKY CRAFTS FAIR Beres Berea Crafts Fair. Featuring the work of aver 100 craftspeople including woodworkers. Daily demonstrations Berea Indian Fort Theatre, Highway 21, Berea, KY 40403. For more information cali Lila Bilando, Church Hill Weavers (606) 986-3126, [LOUISTANA | EXHIBITION Baton Rouge: July 24-August 12 Made in the Shade. A regional juried crafts competition sponsored by the Louisiana Crafts Council. Baton Rouge Gallery, 1442 City Park Ave., Baton Rouge, LA 70808. For more information call Kay Davis (504) 343-2254, MAINE EXHIBITION Portland July 1-September 5 1988 Summer Exhibit Featuring Wood. Exhibitors include: Addie Draper, Bud Latven, Robert Croutier, is Mueller. Nancy Mar- golis Lee Gallery (formerly Maple Hill, Gallery), 367 Fore St., Portland, ME 04101. For more information call (207) 715-3822, woRKsHoPS Deer Isle: July 10.22 ‘Wood Structures and Constructions. In structor: Jamie Johnson. Workshop will examine the structural and design principles relating to constructions, The practical considerations of joi cry, connections, materials and struc tural properties will be addressed. Hay. stack Mountain School of Crafts, Deer Isle, ME 04627, For more information call (207) 348-2306, July 24-August 12 ‘Wood and Public Art. Instructor: Stephen Hogbin. Workshop will explore the process and nature of art for public spaces, Haystack Mountain ‘School of Crafts, Deer Isle, ME 04627, For more information call (207) 348 2306. August 14-September 2 ‘An Approach to Craft Media. Instruc tor: John Dunnigan. Workshop will explore various aspects of function as it relates to furniture, Demonstrations ‘on both hand- and machine-cut joinery, and an introduction tothe principles of woodworking. Haystack Moun: tain School of Crafts, Deer Isle, ME (04627. For more information call (207) 348-2306, ‘CONTINUED ‘DePENOALE-RELABLE ‘WOODWORKING METALWORKING MACHINERY a ras ate NEW! s2-Pne ‘te ht oof BROGENODD HEAUWEGATS oud and atlwig ache re rem 32 ig cag. Otandng vars Lin ere te Ae. ot py yay 1 a SLD mca ater | Fe 2 pge DGEMOGD FEMMES toy | 1 sue t rooms ' coy sae, a ! I 1 4 10, Wie Machinery ompary {a0 ery Cor York Ph 172 you mater me teed nwo sions, youl want Sgn ~ the magazine forthe sin aris YouT se ceatve wood sign every sue caved, routed and Sahblsed — plas how tos, prin, icin hp and mor our etacton Ty (6s) soa 1 gr Oxtsde US. (US funds). $31 SignCraft Magazine P.0. Box 6031-1. Fe. Myers, FL 33906 DY ee etd Carr) Many Hard-ToFind Items! Parsee etic ee omnes Peteedtoeieestes re} JULY/AUGUST 1988 & 55ORTON BRASSES Manufacturers of Cabinet and Furniture Hardware for Homes é Antiques for ‘Over 50 Years. Horton BRAssEs are authentic copies of 17th, 18th, 19th and early 20th century pulls. Nocks Hill Road, 20, Box 208 CGeomvvell, Ct: 06416 (208) 535-4400 Send. fra Catalogue Have a biast with our RUBBER BAND MACHINE GUN 1 || missin, i ena ple 56 A AMERICAN WOODWORKER Woodworker’s Calendar [MASSACHUSETTS | WOODWORKING SHOW Springfield: October 21-23 Fifth Annual New England Show. Spon sored by The Woodworking Associa- tion of North America, The Big E ‘Springfield, MA. For more information call ($00) 521-7623 or (608) 536-3876. WORKSHOPS Washington: July 11-15, August 15-19 ‘Timber Framing. Sessions will eover structural principles and related construction techniques, Heartwood School, Johnson Rd., Washington, MA (01238. For more information cal (413) (623.6677. September 12-16, October 17-21 Cabinetmaking. This workshop is designed to develop basic cabinetmaking skills, use of fine woodworking tools and materials and various joinery techniques. The workshop will focus on ac- ‘curacy of layout, detailed familiariza- ‘with planes, chisels and sharpening, as well as portable and stationery power tool use. Joinery will ineludecar- case, face frame, dovetail drawer and raised panel door construction. Regis- ‘rants must have some previous wood- ‘working experience. Heartwood ‘School, Johnson Rd., Washington, MA 01235. For more information cal (413) 623.6677. October 10-14 Finish Carpentry. Workshop will focus ‘on developing skills with tools and fa- miliarization with the techniques of fi ish work; installing doors, windows, flooring, drywall, exterior trim, door and window trim, shelves, bul Stairs, etc. Heartwood School, Johnson Ra, Washington, MA 01235, For more information call (413) 623-6677. MISSOURI EXHIBITION St. Louis: July 9-August 16 ‘Works off the Lathe: Old and New Faces ‘88. Turned objects on exhibit Hosted by the Craft Alliance Gallery and Education Center, curated by Al- bert LeCoff. Craft Alliance Gallery, (6640 Delmar, St. Louis, MO 63130. For ‘more information call (215) 844-0151 or (314) 725-1151, NEW H. CRAFTS FAIR Canterbury: July 30 ‘Thirtieth Annual Canterbury Fait, Fea- turing antique dealers, juried crafts and demonstrations. Canterbury Cen- ter, Center Rd,, Canterbury, NH 03224, For more information call Doneta Fis- cher (603) 783-9024. SEMINAR Suncook: August 8-12, 15-19 Fifth Annual Japanese Masters Semi nar. 1rinvolves framingand joinery. finish carpentry and shoji construc tion. Proper care and use of tools will becovered. Mahogany East, Mahogany ‘Masterpieces, PO. Box 199, Suncook, NH03275, For more information call (603) 736-8227, [NEW JERSEY | WOODWORKING SHOW Cherry Hill: November 11-13 Fourth Annual Philadelphia Area Show. Sponsored by The Woodwork- ing Association of North America, Hyatt Cherry Hill, 2349 W. Marlton Pike, Cherry Hill, NJ 08002. For more information call (800) 521-7623 or (603) 536-3876. [NEW YORK] EXHIBITIONS New York City: August 4-25 New York ‘88 International Art and raft Competition. Includes wood and furniture, Open to all artists, Marcusie Pfeifer and Michael Ingbar Galleries, beth Junior (914) 699.0969. August 14-18 American & International Crafts. Exhi- bition will include a display of original wood designs entitled "Crafts Today— The Showcase for Tomorrow's Mar- ket.” Jacob K. Javits Convention Cen: ter, Crystal Palace, W. 35th Street and Tith Avenue, New York, NY 10018. For more information call Lynn White (212) 686-6070. ‘CONTINUEDthe Tradition Going Now you can share the joy of woodworking with a gift subscription to AMERICAN WOOD- WORKER. It’s a perfect opportunity to keep the tradition of high-quality work alive. ‘When you give a one-year (six issues) gift subscription to AMERICAN WOODWORKER, you'll save $6 off the cover price. Your friend will also receive a free copy of The Great All-American Wooden Toy Book. This book clearly illustrates more than 50 terrific toy projects. Share the values of a true craftsman and keep the wood chips flying —send a friend a gift subscription today. Thousands of woodworkers have delighted in making the top-quality and fairly quick and casy projects you'll find in The Great All-Ameri- can Wooden Toy Book. These toys will prove to be even more pleasur- able for the lucky youngster who receives them, Now you can give this 211-page, high-quality paperback FREE to a friend, along with a one-year subscription to AMERICAN WOODWORKER, Give your woodworker friend: * An opportunity to enjoy and improve their woodworking skills. © Pride in making distinc- tive pieces built with care. © High-quality projects with easy-to-follow instructions. * A FREE copy of The Great All-American Wooden Toy Book. ) le and joy! Give a one-year (six issues) gift subscription to AMERICAN WOODWORKER at the special introductory rate of $18.00 and you'll save $6 off the cover price, plus your friend will receive a free copy of Tbe Great All-American Ef Six full issues of pi Wooden Toy Book, a full-year gift subscription to: Name 1 Please renew my own 64 In Canada: $24.00 Canadian funds. — hehe, Please send a free copy of The Great All-American Wooden Toy Book and Please send the bill for my gift subscription to: ‘Send no money now. Just mail this coupon today! lip and mailto: AMERICAN WOODWORKER, Fmmaus, PA 18098 2p. ue subscription at $18.00, Me Mi. iNa saves Te.,saveSHOnEY! ase reineetae ea ae Aen one oceans Secs ees one ToL. ee 1 o Se ee ‘ Instantclamping Instantanges— adjustable from o-45" «Join dissimilar materials ‘doin pieces of ‘variable thickness—| facesstay even QUALITY CRAFT TOOLS, INC. TTO3Ess Monon Steet (Goshen iN 46526 Phone 213 Keep your working PES a @Pamericanticar Association WERE FIGHIING FOR YOUR FE Woodworker's Calendar WOODWORKING SHOWS White Plains: September 23.25 Third Annual New York Show. Spon- sored by The Woodworking Assoc! tion of North America, Westchester County Center, Central Avenue at Bronx River Parkway, White Plains, NY 10607. For more information call (800) 521-7623 or (603) 536-3876. Syracuse: November 4-6 Second Annual Central New York State Show. Sponsored by the Wood- working Association of North America New York State Fairgrounds, State Boulevard, Syracuse, NY 13209, For more information call (800) 521- 7623 or (603) 536-3876. WORKSHOPS, ‘Saugerties: August 6-7, 21-22 Japanese Hand Tool Workshops by Robert Meadow. Sharpening techniques, joinery, furniture making and instrument making. The Luthier, 2449 West Saugerties Rd., Saugerties, NY 12477, For more information call (944) 246-5207, Clayton: August 13-20 Building the Sailing Pram, Sea Lion. In- structor: Dr. Laurie Rush, Thousand Is- lands Shipyard Museum, 750 Mary Street, Clayton, NY 13624, For more information cal (315) 686-4104, WOODCARVERS MEETING Bronx: September 10 An open meeting to discuss the formation of anew Club for Woodearvers for residents ofthe Bronx-Westchester area. Constantine Building, 2050 Eastchester Rd, Bronx, NY 10461. For ‘more information call (212) 792-1600. [NORTH CAROLINA WOODWORKING sHOW ue Sera an osioee2 eee stomp Satie Mslenee eee tion of North America. The Merchan- ee eae an cal OOH SNCIesS oe Od ae WORKSHOPS Marshall: July 49 Windsor Chairmaking. Instructor: Cur- tis Buchanan. Each participant will handeraft a bow-back Windsor sidechair. The course includes riving spindles and bows from an oak log, bending the bows, carving the seats and turning the legs and stretchers. Drew Langsner’s mountain farm in Western North Carolina. For more information call Drew Langsner, Coun- try Workshops, 90 Mill Creek Rd, Mar- shall, NC 28753, (704) 656-2280. July 18-22 ‘White Oak Basketry. Instructors: Scott Gilbert and Beth Hester. Participants will learn how to select a log, how to ‘make splitsand handles and how to ‘weave two traditional types of Appala- chian white oak baskets Langsner’s mountain farm in Western North Carolina. For more information call Drew Langsner, Country Work- shops, 90 Mill Creek Rd., Marshall, NC 28753, (704) 656-2280. August 1-5 Scandinavian Woodenware. Instruc- tor: Jogge Sundqvist. An opportunity tolearn techniques using basic hand tools such as carving knives, gouges, hewing axes and hollowing adzes. Pro- jects include spoon carving and mak ing a large salad bow! or dough trough. Drew Langsner's mountain farm in Western North Carolina, For ‘more information call Drew Langsner, Country Workshops, 90 Mill Creek Rd, Marshall, NC 28753, (704) 656-2280. August 15-20 Ladderback Chairmaking. Instructor: John D. Alexander. Students will learn techniques and theory of green wood- ‘working. Each participant will build a ladderback chair frame. Drew Langsner’s mountain farm in Western North Carolina. For more information call Drew Langsner, Country Work: shops, 90 Mill Creek Rd,, Marshall, NC 28753, (704) 656-2280, August 29-September 3 Timber Framing. Instructor: John Koe- nig Class will cu joints and raise a three-bent barn designed to include typical structure and joinery of timber framed residence: Participants will learn touse traditional hand tools and techniques for using hand-held power tools. Drew Langsner s mountain farm in Western North Carolina, Formore information call Drew Langsner,Coun- try Workshops, 90 Mil Creck Ra, Mar shall, NC 28753, (704) 656-2280,Woodworker’s Calendar You'll never — duly 1228 run out of ‘Spray Applications for Furniture Fin- ishing. Sheraton Greensboro Hotel, 203 West Greenville Blvd, Greens- ‘boro, NC27401, For more information call Maria Kissell (313) 271-0039. OHIO | WORKSHOPS Marietta: June 25-July 2 Boatbuilding. Building the Chamber- lin dory-skiff James Stephens, 425 Mul- berry Street, Marietta, OH 45750. For more information call (614) 374-6997. Parkman: July 39 ‘Woodturning. Instructors: Nick Cook & Dave Hout. Workshop will include bowl and spindle turning. Accommoda- tions available, Conover Workshops, 18125 Madison Rd, Parkman, OH 44080, For more information call Susan Conover (216) 548-3481. July 39 Sackback Windsor Chairmaking. In- structor: Boyd Hutchison. Accommoda- tions available. Conover Workshops, 18125 Madison Rd, Parkman, OH 44080. For more information call Susan Conover (216) 548-3481. Suly 10-16 Woodturning. Instructor: Palmer Shar- pless. Emphasis on spindle turning. Ae ‘commodations available, Conover Workshops, 18125 Madison Rd, Park- ‘man, OH 44080. For more information call Susan Conover 216) 548-3481. July 10-16 Sackback Windsor Chairmaking. In- structor: Boyd Hutchison. Accommods tions available, Conover Workshops, 18125 Madison Ra Parkman, OU 444080, For more information ‘Susan Conover (216) 548-3481. July 10-16 Shaker Boxmaking. Instructor: John Wilson, Accommodations available. Conover Workshops, 18125 Madison Ra, Parkman, OH 44080. For more information call Susan Conover (216) 548-3481, Osolnik. Bowi turning, spindle turning, platters, metal spinning. Requires prior turning experience. Accommoda- tions available, Conover Workshops, 18125 Madison Rd, Parkman, OH 44080. For more information call Susan Conover (216) 548-3481. July 17.23, Continuous-Arm Windsor Chairmak- ing. Instructor: Boyd Hutchison. Ac- commodations available, Conover Workshops, 18125 Madison Rd., Park- ‘man, OH 44080. For more information. ‘all Susan Conover (216) 548-3481 July 17-23 Nantucket Basketmaking. Instructor: ohn McGuire. Accommodations avai able. Conover Workshops, 18125 Mad son Rd., Parkman, OH 44080. For more information call Susan Conover (216) 548-3481, WOODWORKING SHOW Cleveland: October 28.30 First Annual Cleveland Show. Spon- sored by The Woodworking Associa- tion of North America. Internation: Exposition (IX) Center, 6200 Riverside Dr. Cleveland, OH 44135, For more information call (800) 521-7623 or (603) 536-3876. [OKLAHOMA | Tulsa: ‘July 8-10 Se ache vedere tan: Seer aate kaa Ratna Sho iene sie tas oe seven states will display and demon- So eae, eae Pee ica cele neetoet ine mabe 74104. For more information call (818) ane OREGON LECTURE Portland: July 8 Tage Frid Lecture. Frid discusses design elements and construction in cabi- netsand furniture. Oregon School of Arts and Crafts, Western Forestry Cen- ter, Forest Hall, 245 S.W. Barnes Road, Portland, OR 97325. For more information call (503) 297-5544, CONTINUED ideas for great projects! Hai. ‘Over 450 easy-to-make patt ‘SCROLL SAW PATTERN BOOK by Patrik Spiel and Patricia Spslman ‘This book contains over 450 work- able easy-to-ollow and inexpensive patterns. And, you can use the pat terns over and over agai With SCROLL SAW PATTERN BOOK, youl discover how to make candle holders, mini-animal cut- ‘outs, jewelry, picture frames, shelves, key racks, puzzles and more! ‘And, if you like a challenge try the beautiful recess, relief, marquetry and inlay techniques outlined inthe book. Phas, bestselling author Patrick Spe! ‘man will show you tips on painting, staining, woodburning, stenciling and decal application. Order today and create dozens of professional-looking projects. Order #14-100-4 « Paperback $12.95 Tr’ Sarisraction Guaranreeo! OS! rene sense SCROLL SW Par ‘TERN BOOK Tenciose my paymentot 8255. 1f1am pot completely satis, return the book to your afullrefund (Nach tea 1 Clip and mailto: }ODALE BOOKS ! [ ATTN: American Woodworker Booksbell mas, PA 158 Lee eee ee JULY/AUGUST 1988 A 59Sage mse ones a Ste eR oe Rcd boa ec} ‘Save with Our Package Deal $149.95 ‘em one Suse were ees Seen aan 145 hed vag ep et 6X eon soon No Wild, No Wildlife. ser son Eetunmecttcemrsee 0 ‘A AMERICAN WOODWORKER Woodworker's Calendar WORKSHOP, Portland: July 7-10 Furniture Design: Techniques and Con- struction, Instructor: Tage Frid. De- sign and construct a project. Oregon ‘School of Arts and Crafts, Wood Depart- ment, 8245 §.W, Barnes Road, Port Jand, OR 97225, For more information call (503) 297-5544, PENNSYLVANIA EXHIBITIONS Paoli Tune 15-December 31 “Fun and Games,” an exhibition of games—chess sets, a horserace and oth. ers—carved by sculptor/eraltsman Wharton Esherick. Includes tour of art ist'sstudiofresidence. The Wharton Esh- erick Museum, Horse Shoe Trail, Paoli, PA 19301. For more information call (215) 644°5822, Philadelphia: ‘September 17-November 13 ‘The International Turned Objects ‘Show. Port of History Museum, Penns Landing, Walnut Street at Delaware Aveniue, Philadelphia, PA 19106, For ‘more information cali (512) 396-8689. SYMPOSIUMS. Philadelphia: September 15-17 Form, Function & Fantasy: The 1988 American Association of Woodturner's ‘Symposium. The Symposium will in clude three daily demonstrations given by four featured turners: Ray Key, Dale Nish, Bob Stocksdale and Del Stubbs. Program will also include ‘one hour demonstrations on special techniques by organization members, atrade show and lots of camaraderie. Holiday Inn, 1800 Market Street, Cen- ter City, Philadelphia, PA 19103. For ‘more information cali (512) 396-8689. Newtown: November 11-13 ‘The Use of the Lathe: Ideas for the Classroom. Symposium will address techniques and creativity in using the lathe. The program is designed for teachers and students of junior and sen. for high school, technical school and university woodworking courses. Hicks Art Center, Bucks County Com ‘munity College, Newtown, PA 18940. For more information call Wood Turn ing Center (215) 844-0151 FOLK CRAFTS FESTIVALS York: August 6 Colonial Day in York. Focuses on the educational aspects ofthe traditional colonial crafis and trades, Demonstra. tions, including cabinetmaking, by local eraftspersons. Olde Mill Cabinet ‘Shoppe, RD3, Box 547 A, York, PA 17402. For more information call (717) 755-8884. East Greenville: August 12-13 ‘Annual Goschenhoppen Folk Festival Live demonstrations of traditional 18th and 19th-Century Pennsylvania crafts, trades and farmstead skill in cluding woodworking, woodturning, blacksmithing, weaving, pottery, can-
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American Woodworker Volume IV, Number 3 July-August, 1988

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American Woodworker Volume IV, Number 3 July-August, 1988

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