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Equipment S/n
Rock drill S/n
Percussion hours since last
service
drill. shifts/rounds
drilled meters
SERVICE INFORMATION
Purpose of the service Service man
Arrival date Previous service Previous percussion hours Work. hours Dism. Insp.
Perc.mechanism Rot.mechanism
Remarks tested tested
Cont.
ID: 16467
ID: 16466
CORRECT INCORRECT
Max.
55º
ID: 15674
These operation and maintenance instructions give a brief description of the primary maintenance
procedures to be followed for the hydraulic rock drill.
Sandvik Service is always willing to give advice and help with any maintenance-related problems.
The qualified maintenance staff at Sandvik dealerships and original Sandvik spare parts ensure
reliable operation of the rock drill.
1. Follow the instructions when pressurising the accumulators. See ‘Repair instructions for pressure
accumulators’.
2. With a new rock drill, a hydraulic check and system flushing must be performed according to the
instructions before the rock drill is installed.
The rock drill is fastened to the feed carriage with four pairs of bolts. To avoid damage, it is very
important to use the correct tightening sequence.Tightening sequence:
B A C
ID: 15681
Fastening to the carriage
First, tighten lightly so that the mating surfaces meet (no clearance between the carriage and rock
drill).
1. Pre-tighten bolt set A to 300 Nm (30 kpm).
2. Pre-tighten bolt sets B and C to 300 Nm (30 kpm).
3. Tighten bolt set A to 600 Nm (60 kpm).
4. Tighten bolt sets B and C to 600 Nm (60 kpm).
When replacing the bolts, always loosen all the bolts and then re-tighten using the correct
tightening sequence.
Test run the rock drill and make sure that it operates properly before beginning production drilling.
During the test run, monitor:
- the operation of the shank lubrication
- the pressures and the temperature
- the flushing operation
- any possible oil leaks
Avoid using full percussion pressure. When the drill bit is not
in contact with the rock, full percussion pressure strains the
accumulator membranes and causes unnecessary wear of the
flushing housing and cavitation in the percussion mechanism.
Such ‘idle drilling’ is especially dangerous when drilling upward
and cleaning holes by pumping.
4 6 7 8
1 2
5 3
ID: 18681
The percussion mechanism and the hydraulic motor of the rock drill are lubricated using the hydraulic
oil that flows through them.
The rotation mechanism and shank are lubricated via oil mist lubrication. The lubrication line from the
central lubrication device is connected to the fitting (1) in the rock drill spacer (Fig. 2). From there,
the oil mist passes to the front end of the rock drill, where it lubricates the stabiliser pins, rotation
mechanism, chuck, coupling, and flushing housing bearing.
In the underground model (Fig. 3), the lubricating system’s air flow from the rear section of the piston
is led out through the passage (3).
In the surface model (Fig. 4), the drain oil from the rear section of the piston is led to the front through
the passage (2).
Do not let the rear cover make contact with water when the
lubrication blow is not on.
Oil mist that has travelled through the rock drill’s lubrication circulation system is removed from the
rock drill through the flushing housing fitting (5) (Fig. 2). This used lubrication oil can be conveyed to
a container with a hose.
In no event is oil mist to be conveyed into the hydraulic system
return line.
ID: 18684
4 7
A
ID: 18705
ID: 32760
2 1
ID: 18692
5 1
ID: 16084
1. Flushing housing
2. Water pressure gauge
3. Pre-controlled flushing valve
4. Drain holes for seal leakage, underground model
5. Drain holes for seal leakage, surface model
Except for the flushing housings, the construction of air and water-flushed rock drills is identical.
Water is the most common reason for percussion piston seal failures. Water can enter the rock drill
from outside the flushing housing if the rock drill is in vertical position and shank blow is not on.
Water can also flow with lubricating system air if water is not drained regularly from the lubrication
device.
Water in the front end of the rock drill can cause cavitation pitting in the body components near the
piston seal and wiper ring and in the piston.
To prevent water from entering the gear housing, the flushing
housing seals must be replaced immediately if water is leaking
from the escape holes (4). This is why leaving the rock drill’s
front end pointing upward during pauses in drilling is also
prohibited. If this is not possible, blow the flushing housing dry
with air before the break in drilling.
2.6. Inspection and maintenance of front end with rock drill in carriage ID: 17842
If the lubrication clogges up, (no air coming from the shank
lubrication) turn off the motor, slowly let the pressurized air
escape via the locking bolt before loosening the bolts of the
flushing housing. Otherwise the flushing housing can burst out
due to the pressure and cause damages.
You can also detach the flushing housing without having to remove the rock drill from the carriage by
opening the bolts (1) and the nuts. The coupling and the shank will also detach, as well as the rotation
bushing and the chuck opening the lock bolt (2).Always check these items when replacing the
shank.
ID: 18718
Use the shank when removing the lock washers (1). Remove the cover (3) and the connector flange
(2) before removing the seal housing.
3 2
ID: 18719
2.6.1. Assembly directions for the seals and bearing bushing ID: 13887
The seals are the most sensitive and important components of a rock drill. When disassembling a
rock dill, always replace all seals and O-rings.
90º 4 4 A
1 2 3
1 2 3
B
ID: 16299
Figure: 10. Installation directions for the seals and bearing bushing
4. Drain holes
Install the seals (1, 2, and 3) using either option A (water flushing and water mist flushing) or
option B (air flushing).
Replace the flushing housing seals and install the bearing bushing (1) in the correct position on the
front cover, as shown in Fig. 10.
ID: 16301
Align the holes in the flushing housing and seal housing and press the seal housing in. Reinstall the
fitting flange and front cover. Check the seals.
Tube flushing housing
Reinstall the shank and locking washer pair in the flushing housing. Turn the shank to a vertical
orientation and strike the locking washer pair with the shank.
90º
B
ID: 16303
ID: 16309
ID: 16310
ID: 16321
ID: 18720
ID: 16334
1. Max. 1 mm
1 1
B = Manufacturing: 2 mm, reject limit: 1 mm
The shank must be replaced when 1 mm of the
2--mm bevel at its rear has worn off or any other
wear limit is exceeded.
ID: 16384
2.7. Checking the tightness of the bolts and tightening torques ID: 13944
Checking the tightness of the bolts, especially the side bolts, is probably the most important
maintenance procedure for a rock drill. Loose side bolts cause rapid wear of the rock drill frame’s
mating surfaces, shortening the service life of the rock drill.
The bolts cannot be tightened to the correct tightening torque if the threads are not clean. Therefore,
clean and check the threads if necessary, lubricating them with grease.
Checking the bolts during regular maintenance:
- When checking the tightness of the bolts, use the correct tightening sequence and a
tightening torque 10% greater than what is specified.
- A bolt is too loose if it can turn. In this case, other appropriate bolts must be opened
and re-tightened according to the tightening instructions.
Use only a calibrated, high-quality torque wrench.
8 2
5 7
B
A
4
6
22
3 2
1 1
ID: 16386
Required tools:
- torque wrench
- socket, 24-mm
1. First, lubricate the threads and nut faces with petroleum jelly.
2. Lightly turn the rearmost nuts (A) fully home.
3. Pre-tighten the frontmost nuts (B) to 200 Nm (20 kpm). Use the tightening sequence 1–2–3–4.
4. The final tightening torque is 400 Nm (40 kpm). Use the same tightening sequence (1–2–3–4).
2 C
3
3 2
4 1
4
1
B
A
D
ID: 16397
Figure: 14. Tightening the side bolts and pressure accumulator bolts
Required tools:
- torque wrench
- socket, 24-mm
1. First, lubricate the bolts with petroleum jelly.
2. Pre-tighten all four bolts to 100 Nm (10 kpm) with a torque wrench. Use the tightening sequence
1–2–3–4.
3. The final tightening torque is 200 Nm (20 kpm). Use the same tightening sequence (1–2–3–4).
Required tools:
- torque wrench
- socket, 24-mm
1. Lubricate the bolts with petroleum jelly.
2. Install the washers and bolts (5). Pre-tighten the bolts to 100 Nm (10 kpm). The final tightening
torque is 200 Nm (20 kpm).
5
A
ID: 16405
1 2
ID: 18721
Detach the flushing housing (1) and the gear housing before
assembling the motor.
Required tools:
- torque wrench
- socket, 24-mm
1. First, lubricate the bolts with petroleum jelly.
2. Pre-tighten all four bolts to 100 Nm (10 kpm) with a torque wrench. Use the tightening sequence
1–2–3–4.
3. The final tightening torque is 150 Nm (15 kpm). Use the same tightening sequence (1–2–3–4).
A
3
2
1 4
ID: 16409
Required tools:
- torque wrench
- socket, 36-mm
1. Lubricate the bolts and nuts with petroleum jelly.
2. Pre-tighten all four bolts (4) to 300 Nm (30 kpm) with a torque wrench. Use the tightening sequence
1–2–3–4.
3. The final tightening torque is 600 Nm (60 kpm). Use the same tightening sequence (1–2–3–4);
see Fig. 18.
3
13
ID: 16415
Figure: 18. Tightening sequence for the flushing housing bolts (4)
ID: 16414
The idea of regular preventive maintenance is to take the rock drill in for servicing before a failure
stops it during operation. This will prevent expensive consequential failures and downtime that
adversely affects production.
The maintenance interval varies according to local conditions and must therefore be determined on
the basis of experience.
In defining the correct maintenance interval, the regular maintenance table should be consulted first
and then the maintenance interval should be increased until a suitable maintenance interval for local
conditions is determined.
In addition to this, the rock drill can undergo maintenance whenever the operator reports a malfunction
that could lead to a failure or production downtime.
Ensure that the operator keeps the tools and parts required for maintenance with the drilling
rig.
The rock drill toolkit includes a torque wrench and sockets. A socket and extension are required for
tightening the rock drill/carriage’s front and rear end mounting bolts.
ID: 16418
The drilling rig should also carry a spare flushing housing seals, shank, and coupling for maintenance.
Check the percussion hour meter reading. We recommend that the rock drill be disassembled every
500 percussion hours (refer to the repair instructions, ‘Disassembly’ section). Fill in the maintenance
card.
After the maintenance is complete, the reinstalled components, especially when surfaces are worn,
settle into their proper places for a while, causing the side bolts and mounting bolts to loosen.
This is why the side bolts and mounting bolts must be re-tightened after drilling about 100–
200 metres following maintenance.
The card is machine-specific. When a rock drill is brought in for maintenance, the previous
maintenance cards must be available. The card is filled in with as much information about the
maintenance as possible. When a rock drill enters use again after maintenance, the date for the next
servicing is marked on the card.
The maintenance card reveals the replacement rate of parts in each rock drill, and the effect of
different conditions and procedures can be seen by comparing the various cards.
- The card must be available for preventive maintenance.
- A properly completed card enables us to view the entire maintenance history of a rock drill.
- The card simplifies the decision to scrap an old machine.
To monitor the maintenance of a rock drill, the attached type of maintenance card can be used.
These instructions are intended for persons servicing and repairing Sandvik hydraulic rock drills.
Only personnel with specific operation and service training are
permitted to perform operation, maintenance and adjustment
procedures. Read the operating, maintenance, and safety
instructions before using or servicing the rig.
Always use a hoist when tilting the rock drill in the assembly
stand.
Follow the instructions in the regular maintenance table. With regular preventive maintenance,
optimal utilisation is achieved. Replace any worn part promptly to avoid more serious damage.
Before performing installation, check carefully that the parts are clean since even new parts can be
dirty (a bottle brush is useful for cleaning the components of the rock drill cylinder). The use of
unauthorised, i.e. non-OEM, spare parts has been found to cause increased costs in almost all cases.
The warranty for the entire system becomes void immediately if any part is replaced with a non-OEM
part.
Checking the tightness of the side bolts is one of the most important maintenance procedures for a
rock drill. Neglecting this procedure can cause rapid wear of the rock drill frame’s end faces. Faultless
operation of a rock drill stems largely from appropriate use of the repair facilities. Make sure that the
repair site is clean.
Example of equipment available at repair facilities:
The drill bit grinding device should not be housed at the rock
drill repair facility.
Sandvik supplies ready tool set for drill repair work. See the tool sets’ spare part sheet.
Figures 2, 3 and 4 show the tools needed in repairs, the tools being grouped according to the work
phases.
ID: 18729
ID: 18730
ID: 18731
Figure: 4. Tools for the disassembly, assembly and testing of the pressure accumulator
ID: 18732
ID: 18728
The seals are the most sensitive and important components of a rock drill. When disassembling a
rock dill, always replace all seals and O-rings.
ID: 16736
ID: 16766
ID: 16767
ID: 16768
Keep the seals in their original packages and away from direct sunlight.
ID: 16769
Figure: 10. Centring the spacer and rear bearing piston seals, and installation directions
Centring the piston seals: So that the seals settle properly, apply oil on the piston and push it through
the seals while rotating it slowly in the direction indicated in the figure. Check that the seal lips are
intact.
If the seals do not last for the standard maintenance interval, usually the reason is one of the following:
- Dirty oil and the filter is either clogged or of the wrong type (non-OEM)
- Incorrect oil grade
- Incorrect installation of the seals
- Seals damaged at the time of installation
- Water in oil
- Poor condition of the sliding surfaces
- Piston is pitted or scratched
The Rock drill has to be disassembled and the components to be checked after every 500 drilling
hours.
Disassembly and assembly of the rock drill requires from the performer professional skill and practical
knowledge of these machines. The working room should be dry, dustless and clean.
There should also be a wash-basin and compressed air available for the cleaning of the drill
components.
Before the disassembly the drill should be washed on the outside for example with a high-pressure
water spray. In addition to this we recommend that the drill is washed on the outside also with a brush
and suitable solvent before it is taken to the actual servicing place. A split barrel suits this purpose
well.
1
2
ID: 18735
Required tools:
- 30, 36, 41 mm spanner
Fit and secure the locking latch (1) with bolts (3). Mount the drill
to the assembly stand with front and rear bolts (2).
ID: 18736
ID: 18747
Figure: 13. Disassembly of the front end, See operation and maintenance
Before removing the accumulator from the rock drill, release the
pressure by opening the filling valve.
ID: 16806
Required tools:
- torque wrench
- socket, 24-mm
Open the accumulator bolts (see figure). Detach the accumulator and remove the seal.
ID: 16818
Required tool:
- spanner
Remove the hydraulic motor mounting bolts and pull the hydraulic motor assembly out from the gear
housing. Remove the O-ring. Open the cover bolts. Pull the rotation shaft out from the bearing housing
with the puller (092 864 58) and punch (088 277 08).
7 14 3 2
4
10
10
5
9
8 5
13
12
6
11
ID: 16819
15
3
1
4
10 7 12 5 2
ID: 16820
- pre-tightening torque: 10 Nm
- final tightening torque: 32 Nm
Remember to use the lock washers and threadlocker!
ID: 16821
Open the side bolt nuts first from the front, then from the back, and push the side bolts out.
ID: 17091
ID: 17096
Disassemble the piston assembly by removing the rear cylinder and distributor from the top of the
piston and the rear bearing from the rear cylinder.
ID: 17095
If necessary, the piston may be polished with a cloth wheel. Never grind the piston!
Check the distributor:
- If the distributor has light scratches, remove them by polishing with a cloth wheel.
- If the distributor has seizure marks, replace the distributor.
Never grind the distributor.
ID: 17102
ID: 17103
3.5.7. Disassembly and assembly of the spacer bearing and seal housing ID: 17900
• Detach the spacer from the gear housing and check the bearing surface for wearing.
• Replace the spacer if the indication grooves (A) have worn out.
1 A
ID: 32827
1 Disassembly
2 Auxiliary punch 550 055 27
3 Punch for removing 550 342 21
• Cool the bearing to -20C before installation.
2 B C
ID: 32828
2 Assembly
B Groove
C Spacer marking
• Align long groove (B) of the bearing with spacer marking (C).
• Pay attention to locking surface.
• Seal housing must be replaced if the seal groove in the spacer iswider than 4,35 mm.
Use the tool 150 746 48 to check the width.
1 4 2 6 5
3 A B
ID: 32829
Figure: Removal and installation of the spacer seal housing. Use a hydraulic press.
1 Disassembly 2 Assembly
3 Locking rings 550 055 28 4 Punch for removing 550 055 27
5 O-ring
• Use proper punch for assembling the seal housing.
• Install to the level of the spacer surface.
• Position the groove (B) of the seal housing in line with the groove (A) of the spacer.
Clean the spacer and the seal bushing carefully before
installation.
Check the gear housing wear limits (refer to the section ‘Wear limits’).
Required tools:
- spanner, 24-mm
- puller
Remove the bolts, and remove the shaft journal
with a puller. Let the intermediate gear drop
down, and remove the support plates. Check the
wear of the support plates and shaft surface. Re-
place the parts, if necessary.
ID: 17929
ID: 17930
Press the first needle bearing into the intermediate gear, using a hydraulic press. Turn the gear the
other way round, and press the other needle bearing in.
Ensure that the hard ends of the needle bearings (the sides with
text) are on the outside of the gear faces.
1 7
10
5
9
2
9
10 12
11
9
12
8
3
ID: 29685
ID: 18026
ID: 18034
ID: 18036
ID: 18749
ID: 18028
Work especially carefully when assembling the rock drill. Check that all parts are completely clean.
Before assembling the rock drill, check all parts subject to wear, such as bearings and pressure
accumulator diaphragms (refer to the section ‘Pressure accumulators’), and replace if necessary. The
wear limits for all parts are shown in the wear limit table (refer to Section 7). The parts must be
lubricated - with, e.g., motor oil - before assembly.
All mating surfaces must be completely dry and clean.
Assembly stand
When assembly of the rock drill commences, the mounting plate of the assembly stand is in a
horizontal position. Ensure that themounting bolts (2 pcs) and the latch are closed.
Attach the gear housing to the assembly stand. Tighten the bolts.
Required tools:
- torque wrench
- socket, 24-mm
Install the support plates and intermediate gear in A
the gear housing. The shaft journal must go up to
the O-ring when pushed by hand. Drive the shaft
carefully into place with a rubber mallet. Ensure
that the support plates stay in place during as-
sembly. Tighten the bolts to200 Nm (20 kpm).
Use new locking washer pairs.
A = 200Nm
ID: 18752
Be sure that the seals of the spacer and the gear housing are in
right places
Lower the body cylinder carefully. Attach the rear mount of the body cylinder loosely to the assembly
stand.
ID: 18064
Turn the mounting plate to a horizontal position with a hoist. Secure with the latch and bolts (2 pcs)
at the rear of the locking plate.
Required tools:
- torque wrench
- socket, 24-mm
1. Lubricate the threads and nut faces with grease.
2. Lightly turn the rearmost nuts (A) fully home. Pre-tighten the frontmost nuts (B) to 200 Nm
(20 kpm). Use the tightening sequence 1–2–3–4.
3. Tighten the rear mount of the body cylinder against the mounting plate.
4. The final tightening torque is 400 Nm (40 kpm). Use the same tightening sequence.
24
4 13
A
C
ID: 18066
C = 400 Nm (200Nm)
Refer to the section ‘Seals’, and make sure that all seals are
correctly installed. Check also that the components are
installed facing the right direction.
Lower the assembly stand to a vertical position with a hoist. Attach the front cylinder to the body
cylinder. Install the rear bearing in the rear cylinder so that the surfaces are level. Install the distributor
and the rear cylinder with its rear bearing on the piston journal.
Lift the piston assembly into the body cylinder. Use the same special tool used for lifting the percussion
cartridge.
ID: 18070
Required tools:
- torque wrench
- socket, 30-mm
Install the rear cover and bolts on the body cylinder. Place the O-ring in the rear cover groove prior
to installation. Use new locking washer pairs. The surfaces must be dry and clean.
ID: 18073
Tightening torques
- pre-tightening torque: 200 Nm (20 kpm)
- final tightening torque: 400Nm (40 kpm)
- tighten in a crosswise pattern.
ID: 18075
ID: 18078
ID: 18754
Figure: 37. Assembly of the coupling piece, rotation bushing and the flushing housing. Use new gasket
(1). Flushing housing assembly; See operation and maintenance
ID: 18102
Required tools:
- torque wrench socket, 36 mm
- spanner, 36-mm
Lubricate the bolt threads. Use the tightening se-
quence 1–2–3–4. Pre-tighten the bolts to 300 Nm 2
(30 kpm). Tighten the bolts to600 Nm (60 kpm)
in a crosswise pattern. Use new locking washers. 3
4
1
ID: 18106
H
G
K E
D
C
B
F
L
ID: 18756
3.7.1. Percussion cartridge fitting between the spacer and rear cover ID: 17307
B
A
2
1
Wash the percussion cartridge (1) components. Before assembly and measurement, check that the
components are clean and that no oil film is present.
Measure dimensions (A), (B), and (C). The difference between values (A) and (B) must be greater
than value (C). If this is not the case, reject parts (3) and (4).
Test run the rock drill and make sure that it operates properly.
During the test run, monitor:
- the mating surfaces of the components and the front end of the rock drill for oil leaks
- the operation of the shank lubrication
- the flushing operation
- the pressures and the temperature
1. PRESSURE ACCUMULATORS
In all hydraulic systems, cleanliness is the single most important factor in ensuring trouble-free
operation. For this reason, the pressure accumulators should be filled and serviced in a clean and
dust-free environment.
The condition of the pressure accumulator must be checked whenever the accumulator is being
disassembled and the rock drill is being serviced. The rock drill’s special toolkit contains all tools
required for servicing and checking the pressure accumulators.
Experience has shown that the first (originally fitted) pressure accumulator diaphragm will not achieve
the normal service life, especially if the time between pressurisation and commissioning is long. This
is why the pressure accumulators supplied as spare parts are unpressurized and this is also indicated
on the accumulator.
The bottom and cover of a pressure accumulator must remain as a pair. All accumulator covers and
bottoms supplied by Sandvik are paired. Other parts, such as diaphragms and filling valves, are
supplied separately.
RISK OF PERSONAL INJURY! Before removing the pressure
accumulator from the rock drill, release the pressure by opening
the filling valve. When the pressure gauge is in use, the
discharge opening must always be directed to an unrestricted
space to prevent a risk to those in the immediate vicinity as a
result of pressure discharge.
WARNING
RISK OF EXPLOSION! Repairing a pressure accumulator by
welding or in any other manner is strictly prohibited. A repaired
pressure accumulator can explode and cause injuries or even
death. Replace the faulty pressure accumulator with a new one.
The charge gas pressure of a pressure accumulator must be checked once a week. The check is
performed by using a pressure gauge included in the rock drill’s special toolkit. The pressure gauge
range is 0 to 100 bar for the high-pressure accumulators, and 0 to 10 bar for the low-pressure
accumulators. Use a gauge meant for gas pressure measurement. The pressure gauge used must
not be a liquid damped gauge.
3
2
Before removing the pressure accumulators from the rock drill, release the accumulators’ pressure
by opening the filling valves. No one is allowed in front of the valve when it is being opened.
DANGER
Never remove a pressurized accumulator.
DANGER
RISK OF EXPLOSION!
An exploding pressure accumulator will cause death or severe
injury.
Before disassembling a pressure accumulator, ensure that the
accumulator is depressurised.
Never heat an accumulator ower 100°C.
1. Visually check the inside and outside of the accumulator for wear, damage, and corrosion.
2. Carefully clean and check the threading.
1.5. Assembly
1. Fit a new or inspected diaphragm to the cover. Make sure that the diaphragm is in the groove and
fitted so that the correct side is downwards.
2. Lubricate the surface of the diaphragm (a) and the bottom surface of the accumulator (b) with
vaseline or lanolin.
1 2
• The high pressure accumulators are marked with uneven numbers and the low pressure
accumulators with even numbers.
4. Lubricate the threads of the bottom with vaseline or lanolin.
5. Screw the bottom all the way in and tighten it with the special tool to a torque of 150 Nm.
• When the pressure accumulator diaphragm is changed, the O-rings (b) should also be changed.
Always check the wear limit marks of the thread after tightening (150 Nm) the bottom. After the
tightening, if the mark(I) on the bottom remains between the dot (•) and the mark (R) on the cover,
the thread is in order.
If the mark (I) on the bottom goes beyond the mark (R), the threads of the accumulator cover and
bottom are too worn. Replace the accumulator and discard the old one.
If the accumulator can not hold the gas after changing the diaphragm and valve, check the threading,
bottom and body of the accumulator carefully with for example, liquid penetrant testing.
1.6. Filling
• You can refill the accumulator while mounted to the rock drill.
12 9 8 7 6 5 3 2
11 10 13,14 15 4 1
1. Accumulator body
2. Filling valve
3. Locking nut
4. Cap
5. Quick coupling stem
6. Quick coupling sleeve
7. Hose
8. Accumulator pressure gauge
9. Gas bottle pressure gauge
10. Pressure reducing valve
11. Pressure regulating valve
12. Shut-off valve
13. Adapter
14. Seal
15. Elbow adapter
Low pressure accumulator damps hydraulic vibrations in the return line. It also prevents cavitation in
return lines and channels. To get the optimum result of LP--accumulator, gas pressure should be half
of the return line pressure. Normally it is from 3 to 5 bars.
The main function of high pressure accumulator is to store pressurized oil during the return stroke of
the piston. This stored pressure can be utilized during the next piston stroke. Another vital function
is to dampen vibrations. HP-accumulator gas pressure must be relative to the set maximum
percussion pressure according to the following graph.
Stem-type diaphragm
10 0
90
80 1
70
60
A
50
40
2
30
20
10
0
10 0 12 0 14 0 16 0 18 0 20 0 22 0
1. Upper limit
2. Lower limit
A = Filling pressure
B = Percussion pressure
90
80
70
60 1
A
50
40
2
30
20
10
0
10 0 12 0 14 0 16 0 18 0 20 0 22 0
B
1. Upper limit
2. Lower limit
A = Filling pressure
B = Percussion pressure
HLX5 T 8 bar
HFX5 T 8 bar
RD520 series 30 bar
HL 810 series 30 bar
HL 1500 50 bar
HL 1560 T 40 bar
1. Before mounting the accumulator on the rock drill, remove the cover plugs from the accumulator
connection port, and clean the joint surfaces both in the accumulator and in the rock drill.
2. Check that the bolts move easily in their threads in the drill body. Lubricate the threads of the
bolts.
3. Fit the O-ring and the gasket.
4. Tighten the pressure accumulator bolts in two phases: pretightening 100 Nm, final tightening 200
Nm.
1 2
4 3
1. REPAIR .......................................................................................................................................... 3
1.1. Checking the motor ......................................................................................................................................... 3
1.2. Timing the motor .............................................................................................................................................. 4
1.3. OMSU hydraulic motors ................................................................................................................................. 5
1.3.1. Assembling the motor ................................................................................................................................... 6
1.3.2. Installing the bearings ................................................................................................................................... 7
1.4. OMT hydraulic motors ..................................................................................................................................... 8
1.4.1. Fastening the gear wheel ............................................................................................................................. 9
1.5. MTA hydraulic motors ..................................................................................................................................... 10
In order to ensure uninterrupted use, cleanliness must be considered in all maintenance and repair
procedures related to hydraulic equipment. We recommend that all maintenance and repair
procedures for hydraulic motors be performed in a clean and dust-free room.
When disassembling a hydraulic motor, always replace all seals and O-rings.
2 1
ID: 17730
Non-return valve
Check the condition of the ball (1) and the valve surfaces (2). If they are damaged, the valve will leak
and the motor must be replaced.
Gear wheel set
If the parts have cracks or indications of motor jamming, or if the gear wheel set is worn out, the motor
should be replaced. Retain and install the outer and inner ring of the same gear wheel set as a pair.
• Place the valve plate (1) on top of the balance plate, and mark (with chalk or ink) the drive spline,
which lines up with the hole (A) on the outer rim of the valve.
• Mark the bottom of the valve drive shaft spline. Place the valve drive shaft such that the marked
spline bottom is aligned with the marked spline on the valve and the end with the widest splines (5
mm) is mounted in the valve. Push the channel plate into place.
• Mark the inner rotor with the spline bottom that acts against the bottom of the outer splines. Mount
the gear wheel set, and align the rotor (3) such that the mark is aligned with the bottom of the marked
spline of the valve drive shaft. Turn the rotor anticlockwise until the splines engage with the splines
on the drive shaft splines.
ID: 17746
2 3 4 5 3 6 7 8 6
9 10
11 12 13 14
15 16
17 18
19 20
21 22
23
24
ID: 17751
The motor seal set includes parts 2, 6, 14, and 15. Refer to the spare parts manual.
Never rotate the motor without a shaft, as this could damage the
plate.
4
1
ID: 17757
Carefully press the cover (2) into place. Make sure that the
clearance between the cover and the frame is equal on all sides
before you tighten the bolts (1). Otherwise the shaft (4) can be
behind the corner (3) and the bearing (5) will break the rear cover
when the bolts are tightened.
33
34
35
21
35
19
ID: 17762
• Install the bearings (35) and the bushing (21) on the shaft (19) as shown in the figure.
• Tighten the nut (33) with a special tool (tightening torque: 25 Nm), and bend the edges of the locking
plate (34) on top of the nut (33).
2
2 3
4
5
6
7
ID: 17777
Two different gear wheels are used on the OMT hydraulic motors. Depending on the gear wheel type,
you must use sealing bushings (A) of different length (37 mm or 32 mm); refer to the figure.
37 mm
ID: 17790
AA
ID: 17791
5,8
2
11
10
6
9
3
9
12
13
14
14
15
19
20
7
20
21
22
18
ID: 17743