(DENIM UNIT)

INTRENSHIP REPORT

DURATION : 3-WEEKS

MADE
BY
STUDENTS
OF
SYNTHETIC FIBER DEVELOPMENT & APPLICATION
CENTER
(affiliated with Hamdard University)

NAMELY:

SAAD AHMED
CELL# 03132082156
MUHAMMAD FAHAD
CELL# 03132296353
RAHEEL SHAFIQUE

SUBMITTED
TO
RESPECTED

MR. ASLAM SIDDIQUE

(G.M OF NAVEENA TEXTILE)
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

First of all we thank Almighty Allah who brought this moment in our life when we came in
NAVEENA TEXTILE for intrenship. It has been a great experience to work with all of you and
we are feeling proud that we can say we have worked in NAVEENA TEXTILE which is not only
one of the best DENIM manufacturer & Exporters in Pakistan but also all over the world and
where the management and the workers have demonstrated a very good performance in all areas
of the business. NAVEENA TEXTILE is a dynamic organization with professionals loving and
professionals making setup. As it is said “Time Spent in Training is time Well-spent”. The golden
time, which we spend here and the practical, conceptual and industry- related knowledge, which
we gained here will be a milestone in our professional carrier.

We would like to thanks

Mr. Aslam Siddique (General Manager)

We are grateful to our class advisor Mr. FAQIR MUHAMMAD for arranging this intrenship. We
always remember the hospitality we received during our stay at the NAVEENA TEXTILE. We
are privileged to work with experienced personnel, who are the master of their skill and field.
Their ever supporting behavior, kind advice, and professional approach taught us how to perform
tough and critical tasks with utmost ease. We have very much enjoyed being amongst wonderful
people. We wish each and every one everlasting progress, success and of course wish NAVEENA
TEXTILE a very prosperous future.

Dedications
We dedicate this report to our loving parents whose prays, affection and support are
always a source of encouragement for us to reach at this destination and a humble icon
for others in future. Our parents and teachers who give us real eyes that help us to leads
ourself and others in the dark and cruel world.
 Executive Summary
This report consists of my three weeks internship at NAVEENA exports (Pvt) Ltd
(Denim Unit). This organization is situated in Karachi. Naveena Denim established in
2003 are situated in Pakistan . Our Goal is to understand customers' requirement and to
give them maximum satisfaction. We believe in philosophy of making long term
relationship with our valued customers by strong communications in all manners. We
focused on getting the best out of us in terms of quality and also emphasis on gratifying
the customers' needs, wants and demands. The salient features of this report are
NAVEENA’S organizational background, its vision, corporate values and goals of the
company. This report focuses its production operations. Finally, this report is a nutshell
comprises of my practical learning, recommendations and suggestions.

Vision of Company　
The company undertakes to apply the vision in letter and spirit under the following
guiding principles:

 In time action
 Clear understanding of customer’s instructions.
 Clear communication with vendors
 Clear instructions for production
 Strict compliance with quality control system.
 Total devotion maintains first class quality standard.
 Absolute efforts for in time shipments.
 Career development opportunities for employees.

It’s Corporate Values

 Team work
 Integrity.
 Excellence.
 Commotment to buyer.
 Maintenance of consistent standard.

It’s GOALS
 Continuous improvement.
 Customer’s satisfaction.
 Quality of product and system.
 NAVEENA DENIM UNIT FLOW CHART

YARN GODOWN

WARPING

ROPE DYEING

RE-BEAMING

SIZING

WEAVING

FINISHING

WASHING

INSPECTION

DIFFERENT DEPARTMENTS AT NAVEENA

BALL WARPING
Ball Warping is mainly used in manufacturing of denim fabrics. The warp yarns are wound on a ball beam
in the form of a tow for indigo dyeing. After the dyeing process, the tow is separated and wound on a beam.
This stage is also called long chain beaming or re-beaming.

COMPONENTS OF MACHINE

•CREEL
•LEASING STAND
•TURN-AROUND ROLL
•TURN-AROUND STAND
•BALL WARPER
•Dual MOTOR DRIVE

CREEL:
Custom designed to meet package dimensions, end count requirements and available space.
Electromagnetic Tension Control with individual post adjustment, 0-75 GPE tension range, with individual
post-post calibration. Integrated Motion Sensor with 25 millisecond response time, end break indicator, end
count confirmation, and recurring
break indication for same package.

LEASING STAND:
Semi-Automatic lease insertion at programmable intervals with ertical
oscillation to reduce wear.

TURN-AROUND ROLL:
Provides additional length to the yarn path (in sheet form) to
allow for recovery of lost or broken ends and reduces rolling in the trumpet at the end of
the traverse stroke.

TURN-AROUND STAND: Constructed of heavy duty steel with an aluminum flanged

300mm diameter x 125mm wide guide wheel. The guide wheel has a pneumatic disk
brake for controlled stops.

BALL WARPER:
The Ball Warper is capable of producing a 1220mm width ball with
diameters up to 1524mm (60”) and safe operating speeds up to 500 mpm.

DUAL MOTOR DRIVE:

utilizes the latest drive technologies, including AC vector drive/motors, high
strength polyurethane timing belts and heavy duty beveled gearboxes. The trumpet carrier; which has no
bearings, is machined from thermoplastic to reduce weight and improve durability thus eliminating routine
maintenance. Drive Rolls are rubber covered for maximum durability and are coupled to Dual Caliper Disc
Brakes for quick stopping. The hold down arms provide programmable hold down pressure and are used in
loading and doffing the beam. The Griffin Director is a PC based drive and control system that completely
automates the operation of the machine. Operator interface is by 380mm Touchscreen. Customer support is
provided through modem communication 24/7 by Griffin technicians.

OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: Automatic Traveling Cleaner, Inside loading/outside running

creel design, Manual Post/Disc Tensions, Drop Wire Stopmotion System, Sheet Vacuum
System (SVS).

PROCEDURE OF WARPING:
The creel stand has maximum capacity of five cones per stand. The yarn
from the cones is unwounded and passes from rod by cross wound, holed by a catcher guided to the
tensioning zone when cone rotates anticlockwise. There are three types of tension in warping i.e. catcher
tension, rod tension, and sacker tension. Magnetic tensioner is used for yarn tension. Then the yarn comes
to the winding zone or headstock. Combs straighten the yarns towards pressure drum, which supports
beam, and yarns in an alignment so that each and every yarn end can wound separately. Static charges due
to friction of yarns on metal surface cause static charges, which are removed through an anti static device.
Then the yarn is wounded on beam in this way for a required length if beam is changed after one filling of
beam then knotting of yarns is made. Similarly if cones are finished on one frame side then trolley system
of cone changing is used in this way chains rotates the whole frame of empty side and new filled side of
frame is forwarded again knotting is done between the new cones yarn and already winded yarn. Extra yarn
is then removed through cutting. Sensors sense any type of yarn breakage and in case of yarn breakage
knotting is done.
 Rope Dyeing
DYEING

Dyeing is a process in which we impart colour to the fabric. All commercial textile dyeing
processes take place by the application of a solution or a dispersion of the dyes to the textile material
followed by some type of fixation process. The dye solution or dispersion is almost always in an aqueous
medium.

A major objective of the fixation step is normally to ensure that the coloured textile
exhibits satisfactory fastness to subsequent treatment in aqueous wash liquors.
Dyeing is mainly depends on the type of fabric, structure of fabric and the properties of
dyes.

Dyes use for Denim

• Sulphur Dyes
• Vat Dyes

SULPHUR DYES:
Sulphur dyes are widely used on cotton mainly because they are economical to use.
They have good to excellent wash fastness and good light fastness in dark shades. Light fastness of pale
shades is poor. Sulphur dyes are usually dull in shade since the molecular structures are complex. As a
class, the sulphur dyes are not resistant to chlorine containing bleaches.

VAT DYES:
Vat dyes are mainly applied on cellulosic fibres, but some can be applied to protein fibres. They
usually have outstanding colour-fastness properties. Vat dyes are more expensive and difficult to apply than
other classes for cellulose such as directs, sulphurs, and reactive. Indigo is a special case in the vat dye
class. Indigo is attractive for its pleasing blue colour and for the unique fading characteristics of garment
dyed with it. Vat dyes are characterized by the presence of a keto group. Vat dyes in keto form are water
insoluble pigments.

DYEING PROCEDURE:

Indigo Rope Dyeing When dyeing according to the rope dyeing or cable dyeing
method.350 - 400 warp threads are bound on the ball warper to very thick cables of
10000 - 15 000 m length. On the continuous dyeing installation, 12 to 36 cables are led
side by side, wetted, dyed and dried after the dyeing process on cylinders and put into cans. Then the
cables are dissolved to warps on the long chain beamer. The warps are added to the sizing machine, sized
and then led together to warp depending on the total numbers of threads. In practice, this method has
proven to be very good through obtaining an optimum indigo dyeing. However it is important that the
cables have a constant tension in order to avoid warp stripes. The disadvantage compared to other methods
is that yarn breakages do occur more often. Size of the dyeing unit is between 60 - 80 m. Normally, 6
dyeing vats are in use. There are nevertheless variations with 3 to 8 dyeing vats.
• Bottoming: In this case another dye is applied before dyeing with indigo.
First the warp sheet is dyed with sulfur and then it is washed and then dyed
with indigo.

• Topping: In this case the warp sheet is dyed with indigo in start and then it
is washed and then it is dyed with another dye (normally with sulfur).

PROCESS CONTROL OF ROPE DYEING FOR DENIM

1. Concentration of Hydrosulphite:
It is measured by vatometer. It should be from 1.5 gpl to 2.5gpl , or by redox
potential of dye bath which should be from -730 mV to -860 mV.

2. Caustic Soda or pH value :

Should be from 11.5-12.5

3. Dye concentration in Dye bath:

it is measured by spectrophotometer. It should be in g/l

Guidelines
High Indigo Concentration --> Shade is greener and lighter
Low Indigo Concentration --> Shade is dull and Red.
High pH or Caustic Concentration --> Redder and lighter
Low pH or caustic concentration --> greener and darker

Dipping Time:
Longer the dipping time, better will be the penetration and lesser will be the ring
dyeing effect. It varies from 15-22 seconds

Squeeze Pressure:
High pressure will lead to lower wet pick up and result in lesser color and better
penetration. At rope dyeing, squeeze pressure is 5-10 tonnes, ie. wet pick up is as
low as 60%. Hardness of squeeze roller is about 70-75 deg. shores. It sqeeze rolls
are too hard then there are chances of slippage and uneven yarn tension.. If
squeeze rollers are too soft then shading will occur. Surface of the squeeze rolls
should be ground twice a year.

Airing Time: it should be 60-75 seconds. Longer airing time results in high tension on the yarn and
subsequent processes will become difficult.
Drying:
Insufficient or unevenly dried yarns will result in poor rebeaming.

Effect of Ph:
At pH of 10.5 to 11.5, there will be formation of more monophenolate ions, which lead to
higher color yield, as strike rate of the dye to the yarn bundle is very high, and wash down activities will be
very good. At pH higher than this, dye penetration will be less and wash down characteristics are
also poor.

DYEING IN NAVEENA TEXTILE:

 The Rope Dyeing section is equipped with Morrison's Rope Dyeing
Range. Morrison has more than 200 Rope Dyeing systems installed the world over, making it the globally
recognized "first quality" method of indigo dyeing is the world.

Dyed Lots are inspected at US Denim's in-house Dyeing Lab to ensure the fabric shade as per customer
requirements. The Inspected Lots are then transferred to the Re- Beaming section for further processing.

Dyeing department is present on first floor. There are two working shifts in the department
each of 12 hours a day.

MORRISON'S ROPE DYEING RANGE

Features:-

Custom designed Indigo Rope Range for maximum flexibility with minimum waste
Dyes multiple yarn weights with multiple dye classes
Runs short or long production lots with light or heavy depths of shade
Pretreatment consists of counter flow scour / wash boxes
Mercerizing adds improved dye affinity, luster, strength & fashion effects
Multiple dips of indigo & oxidation time in the skier section for shade depths
Multiple wash boxes for rinsing & chemical application
Coilers lay ropes into drums in a pattern that facilitates Re-beaming operation.
 RE-BEAMING:
After rope dyeing, dyed yarn is rebeamed. This is also called warper beam.

Features:

 Tension-controlled motors in creel to drive the size box & head end motors.
 Heavyweight [66 tax (G 75's)] to lightweight [2.25 tax (1800's)] yarn processing capabilities.
 High energy efficiency by utilizing AC generated power.
 Greater yarn stability through fluted rolls.
 Precise tension control.
 Individual beam tension control in the creel via load cell tension rolls & tension controlled motors.
 SIZING
Although the quality and characteristics of the warp yarns coming out of the winding, warping and
dyeing processes are quite good, they are still not good enough for the weaving process for most of the
yarns. The weaving process requires the warp yarns to be strong, smooth and elastic or extensible to certain
degree. To achieve these properties on the warp yarns, a protective coating of polymeric film forming agent
(size) is applied to the warp yarns prior to weaving; this process is called slashing or sizing.

The main purposes of sizing are as follows:

 To increase the strength of the yarns

 To reduce the yarn hairiness that would cause problems in weaving process.
 To increase the abrasion resistance of the yarn against other yarns and various machine elements.
 To reduce fluff and fly during the weaving process for high speed weaving machines.

DRYING ZONE:-

After the size box the yarns go through the dryer section. The wet yarns are dried by
using cylinder drying. Cylinder drying is done using steam heated hot rolls called the
drying cylinders. The cylinders are coated with Teflon to prevent sticking of the yarns on
the cylinders.

WEAVER’S BEAM:-
The yarns are wound on to weaver’s beam at the headstock. A pressing roller is pressing the warp yarn for
uniform tension winding. A guide roller guides the yarns to the weaver’s beam. A pressing roller is
pressing the warp yarn for uniform tension winding.

TRANSPORTATION OF BEAMS:-
Beam is then transported to the weaving department.
 WEAVING
The process of producing a fabric by interlacing warp and weft threads is known as weaving. The
machine used for weaving is known as weaving machine or loom. Weaving is an art that has been practiced
for thousands of years. The earliest application of weaving dates back to the Egyptian civilization. Over the
years, both the process as well as the machine has undergone phenomenal changes. As of today, there is a
wide range of looms being used, right from the simplest handloom to the most sophisticated loom.

AIR-JET WEAVING:

Air-jet weaving is a type of weaving in which the filling yarn is inserted into the warp shed with
compressed air. Air-jet system utilizes a multiple nozzle systems and a profiled reed. Yarn is drawn from a
filing supply package by the filing feeder and each pick is measured for the filling insertion by means of a
stopper. Upon release of the filling yarn by the stopper, the filling is fed into the reed tunnel via tandem and
main nozzles, which provide the initial acceleration. The relay nozzles provide the high air velocity across
the weave shed. Profiled reed provides guidance for the air and separates the filling yarn from the warp
yarn.

WEAVING IN NAVEENA TEXTILE:

In NAVEENA TEXTILE weaving is carried out through air Jet looms. Like some other
departments weaving department is running 24 hours a day and meeting the sales requirements. Weaving
department is playing a leading role in denim manufacturing at of denim at NAVEENA TEXTILE.

Air jet weaving is a type of weaving in which the filling yarn is inserted into the warp shed with
compressed air. Air jet weaving utilizing a multiple nozzles system and profile reed. Yarn is drawn from a
filling supply package by the filling feeder and each pick is measured for the filling insertion by means of a
stopper. Upon release of the filling yarn by the stopper, the filling is fed into the reed tunnel via tandem and
main nozzles. The tandem and the main nozzle combination provide the initial acceleration, where the relay
nozzles provide the high air velocity across the weave shed. Profile reed provides guidance for the air and
separates the filling yarn from the warp. A cutter is used to cut the yarn when the insertion is completed.

The advantages of air jet weaving machines are:

• High productivity.
• Low initial outlay.
• High filling insertion rates.
• Simple operation and reduced hazard because of few moving parts.
• Reduced space requirements.
• Low noise and vibration levels
• Low spare parts requirement.
• Reliability and minimum maintenance.
WEAVING MACHINE:

Brand Name: PICANOL

Make : Belgium

Brand Name:
Make:

Total looms: 105

FINISHING
“A process done to fibers, yarns and fabric causing them to change in appearance,
texture and performance.”

The term finishing covers all those treatments that serve to impart to the textile the desired end-use
properties. These can include properties relating to visual effect, handle and special characteristics such as
waterproofing and nonflammability. Finishing treatment is done to achieve the ultimate customer
requirements.

WORKING IN FININSHING DEPARTMENT

It is divided in to following main sections:

D-Batcher
Singeing
Sanforizing
 INSPECTION
Quality is ultimate concern; every single yard of the denim goes through inspection department
and rated by a point count system to ensure that quality is up to standard before packing. Defective fabric
pieces are rejected and sold as seconds and relatively minor defective points are marked clearly using
stickers to alert cutters .

Defects:
• Removable defects
• Non-Removable defects

(a) REMOVABLE DEFECTS:

Removable defects are those defects which are removed by washing and by cutting.
Defects are:

1.OIL STAINS:
When fabric gets spots of oil lubrication from any part.

2.SLUBS:
It is the collection of the threads at the surface of the fabric. Similarly fibers
present in the form of bunch at the fabric are called slubs. This defect is removed by
combing.

3.HOLE
When fabric passes through temple it produces holes on the fabric due to its wiry surface.

(b)NON REMOVABLE DEFECTS:

Those defects which cannot be removed by mending and these are count in
fabric grading.

These are:

1.JALA:
In warp and weft direction there is a gap, it looks like that some warps or wefts are missed.

2.CRACKS :
During weaving when m/c stops and again starts running then there is a gap between the
two wefts. It seems like that the beating is not done properly.

3.PATTI :
It is the dark color or thick weft lines in the fabric.
4.DOUBLE PICK :
The two or more threads are inserted at the same place. It is somewhat emboss and
occur at the full length of the fabric.

5.BROKEN PICK:
 If the double or thick yarn is inserted 1/4 or ½ width of the fabric then it is known as cut or
broken pick.

6.BROKEN END:
When the warp end is broken.
7.KNOT:
It comes due to knotting of broken warp end.

8.FINGER MARK:
It comes when a person touches the warp ends.

9.CREASE MARK:
Creases occur due to improper finishing.

10.WRONG DENTING:
When more yarns are passed through dents.

11.TIGHT END:
When warp end becomes tight due to tension in dyeing.

12.COARSE END:
It comes when warp end is coarse.

13.MISS PICK:
If the weft yarn is missing from any place of fabric then it is known as miss pick.

14.REED MARKS:
The lines are formed on the fabric due to reed movement and this defect is called reed marks.

15.STARTING MARKS:
That mark which is due to the beating motion of the loom is called starting mark.

16.A GRADE FABRIC:

If 30 points come in meter fabric it is considered as A grade fabric.

17.B GRADE FABRIC:

If more than 30 points comes in fabric then it is considered as B grade fabric.
 WASHING
BASIC WASHES IN DENIM FABRIC:

DENIM WASHING:

Denim washing is the aesthetic finish given to the denim fabric to enhance the appeal and
to provide strength.
Dry denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being
dyed during its production.

Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time the fabric will fade in a manner similar to
that which artificially distressed denim attempts to replicate. With dry denim, however, such fading is
affected by the body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of their daily life. This creates
what many feel to be a more natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim.

DENIM WASHES ARE OF TWO TYPES:

1. Mechanical washes
- Stone wash
- Microsanding

2. Chemical washes
- Denim bleaching
- Enzyme wash
- Acid wash

MECHANICAL WASHES:

STONE WASH:
In the process of stone washing, freshly dyed jeans are loaded into large washing
machines and tumbled with pumice stones to achieve a soft hand and desirable look.
Variations in composition, hardness, size shape and porosity make these stones
multifunctional. The process is quite expensive and requires high capital investment.
Pumice stones give the additional effect of a faded or worn look as it abrades the surface
of the jeans like sandpaper, removing some dye particles from the surfaces of the yarn.
Selection of stone

Stone should be selected of the proper hardness, shape, and size for the particular end product. It should be
noted that large, hard stones last longer and may be suited for heavy weight fabrics only.

PROBLEMS CAUSED BY STONES:

- Damage to wash machineries and garment due to stone to machine and machine to stone abrasion
- Increase in labor to remove dust from finished garments.
- Water pollution during disposal of used liquor.
- Back staining and re deposition.

BACK STAINING OR RE-DEPOSITION:

The dye removed from denim material after the treatment with cellulose or by a conventional washing
process may cause "back staining” or "redeposition”. Re-coloration of blue threads and blue coloration of
white threads, resulting in less contrast between blue and white threads.

REMEDY OF BACK STAINING:

- Adding dispersion/suspension agent to wash cycle.

- Intermediate replacement of wash liquor.
- Using alkaline detergent like sodium per borate with optical brightener as after wash.

LIMITATIONS OF STONE WASHING:

- Quality of the abrasion process is difficult to control Outcome of a load of jeans is never
uniform, little percentage always getting ruined by too much abrasion.
- The process is non-selective.
- Metal buttons and rivets on the jeans in the washing machines get abraded.
- This reduces quality of the products and life of equipment, and increases production
costs.
- Stones may turn into powder during the process of making the garment grayish in color
and rough too
- Provides rougher feel than enzyme wash
- Stone may lead the harm to the machine parts

STONEWASH EFFECT:

In traditional washing process, volcanic rocks or pumice stones are added to the garments during washing
as abradant. Due to ring dyeing and heavy abrasion fading is more apparent but less uniform.

The degree of colour fading depends on the garment to stone ratio, washing time, size of stones, material to
liquor ratio and load of garments. Normally after desizing, stone wash process starts with pumice stone
addition in rotary drum type garment washer. Process time varies from 60-120 mins.

Stone wash effect is one of the oldest but highly demanded washing effects. Stone wash process gives
“used” look or “vintage” on the garments, because of varying degree of abrasion in the area such as
waistband, pocket, seam and body.

There are many limitations and drawbacks associated with stone washing process, which can be overcome
by using new enzyme based washing technology. This technology also helps to conserve water, time,
energy and environment.

MICROSANDING :
There are 3 ways for this technique:

• Sandblasting
• Machine sanding
• Hand sanding or hand brushing

Used in various ways: -

- Flat surfaces (tables, ironing boards)

- On the dummy (inflatable dummies, sometimes standing, sometimes flat, sometimes 'seated')
-Various templates can be used to create a 3D effect.

SAND BLASTING :

Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive material in granular, powdered or other form
through a nozzle at very high speed and pressure onto specific areas of the garment surface to be treated to
give the desired distressed/ abraded/used look. - It is purely mechanical process, not using any chemicals.

- It is a water free process therefore no drying required.

- Variety of distressed or abraded looks possible.
- Any number of designs could be created by special techniques.

MECHANICAL ABRASION :

To give worn out effect, abraded look or used look, some mechanical processes
have been developed. These are based on mechanical abrasion by which the indigo
can be removed. Some of these processes are sueding, raising, emeresing, peaching
and brushing.

Advantages of these processes:

- Control on the abrasion

- Different look on the garment can be achieved.
- All are dry process.
- Economical, ecological and environmental friendly.

Other Mechanical washing

 Whiskering
 Shot gun denim
 Water jet fading
 Super stone wash
 Ice wash
 Thermo denim
 Laser technology finish

WHISKERING:

- Also known as ‘Cat's Whiskers’

- Crease lines around the crotch.
- Industrially done with laser, sandblasting, machine sanding, hand sanding and abrasive
rods.
- Also used for 'knee whiskers' (whiskers on the sides of knees) and 'honeycombs'
(crease marks on the back of the knee)

WATERJET FADING:

- Hydrojet treatment is used for enhancing the surface finish, texture, durability of denim garment.
- Hydroject treatment involves exposing one or both surfaces of the garment through hydrojet nozzles.
- The degree of colour washout, clarity of patterns, and softness of the resulting fabric are
related to the type of dye in the fabric and the amount and manner of fluid impact energy applied to the
fabric.
- As this process is not involved with any chemical, it is pollution free.

LASER TECHNOLOGY:

- It is a computer controlled process for denim fading.

- This technique enables patterns to be created such as lines and/or dots, images, text or even pictures.
- It is water free fading of denim.
- Being an automatic system, chances of human error are slim.
- Also called spray painting in denims.
- This technique has relatively high cost.

SUPER STONEWASH:
- Prolonged stonewashing, up to six hours or more.

CHEMICAL WASHES :

DENIM BLEACH:
In this process a strong oxidative bleaching agent such as sodium hypochlorite or KMnO4
is added during the washing with or without stone addition.
Discoloration produced is usually more apparent depending on strength of the bleach liquor quantity,
temperature and treatment time.
It is preferable to have strong bleach with short treatment time.
Care should be taken for the bleached goods so that they should be adequately
antichlored or after washed with peroxide to minimize yellowing. Materials should be
carefully sorted before processing for color uniformity.

Limitations:
• Process is difficult to control i.e. difficult to reach the same level of bleaching in
repeated runs. When desired level of bleaching reached the time span available to
stop the bleaching is very narrow. Due to harshness of chemical, it may cause
damage to cellulose resulting in severe strength losses and/or breaks or pinholes
at the seam, pocket, etc.
• Harmful to human health and causes corrosion to stainless steel.
• Required antichlor treatment.
• Problem of yellowing is very frequent due to residual chlorine.
• Chlorinated organic substances occur as abundant products in bleaching, and
pass into the effluent where they cause severe environmental pollution.

Advantages:

• New Laccase based bleaching technique only affects the indigo and natural raw
white of weft yarn is retained, giving the woven fabric a darker shade, which is not
implicitly achieved with hypochlorite bleaching.
• The product is so specialised on indigo that it does not attack any other dyes.
• Laccases open up the door to bleach Lycra containing denim without loosing the strength of the fabric. In
case of hypochlorite bleaching Lycra containing product affects adversely by loosing the tear and tensile
strength.
• Finally the process is based on enzyme so no risk of environmental pollution and
harmful effluent discharge.

ENZYME WASH :

•Cellulase enzymes are natural proteins which are used in denim garment processing to get stone wash look
on to the denim garments without using stones or by reducing the use of pumice stone.
•Cellulase attacks primarily on the surface of the cellulose fibre, leaving the interior
of the fibre as it is, by removing the indigo present in the surface layer of fibre.
Cellulase enzyme is classified into two classes:
•Acid Cellulase: It works best in the pH range of 4.5-5.5 and exhibit optimum
activity at 50.
•Neutral cellulase: It works best at pH 6 however its activity is not adversely
affected in the range of ph 6-8 and show maximum activity at 55 C.
Advantage of enzyme washing
•Soft handle and attractive clean appearance is obtained without severe damage to
the surface of yarn.
•Simple process handling and minimum effluent problem.
•Better feel to touch and increased gloss or luster.
•Prevents tendency of pilling after relatively short period of wear.
•Can be applied on cellulose and its blend.
•Due to mild condition of treatment process is less corrosive.
•Fancy colour-flenced surface can be obtained without or a partial use of stone.
•More reproducible effect can be obtained.
•It allows more loading of the garment into machines.
•Environmental friendly treatment.
•Less damage to seam edges and badges.
•Wear and tear of equipment is minimum due to absence of stone.
•Use of softener can be avoided or minimised.
•Easy handling of floor and severs as messy sludge of stones does not interfere.
•Due to absence of stone, labour intensive operation of stone removal is not
required.
•Homogenous abrasion of the garments.
•Puckering effect can also be obtained.
ACID WASH:

It is done by tumbling the garments with pumice stones presoaked in a solution of sodium
hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for localized bleaching resulting in a non
uniform sharp blue/white contrast. In this wash the color contrast of the denim fabric can be enhanced by
optical brightening.
The advantage of this process is that it saves water as addition of water is not required.

Limitations of acid wash:

- Acid washed, indigo dyed denim has a tendency to yellow after wet processing.
- The major cause is residual manganese due to incomplete neutralization, washing or rinsing.
Remedy:
- Manganese is effectively removed during laundering with addition of ethelene-diamine-tetra-
acetic acid as chelating agent.
- Acid washing jeans avoided some of problems of stone wash, but came with added dangers,
expenses, and pollution

Other chemical washes:

• Rinse wash
• Cellulase wash
• Ozone fading
• Snow wash
• Salt water denim
• Flat finish
• Over dye
• Sun washing
• Super dark stone

RINSE WASH:

- Chemically bleaching jeans so that the color fades away

- Breaks down the fibers of jeans and creates white streaks or spots on denim
- Gives a unique rugged look, also called snow wash
- Earlier involved the use of pumice stone
- Presently process involves spraying chemical and removing it immediately
- Come in colors like blue, black, green, brown, grey etc.

CELLULASE WASH:

- This is done to achieve a wash down appearance without the use of stones or with
reduced quantities of stones.
- Cellulase enzymes are selective only to the cellulose and will not degrade starch.
- Under certain conditions, their ability to react with cellulose (cotton) will result in surface
fiber removal (weight loss).
- This will give the garments a washed appearance and soft hand.

Factors influencing cellulase performance:

- pH
- Temperature
- Time
- Dose
- Mechanical action

OZONE FADING:

- By using this technique, the garment can be bleached.

- Bleaching of denim garment is done in washing machine with ozone dissolved in water.
- Denim garments can also be bleached or faded by using ozone gas in closed chamber.
- In the presence of UV light, there is an interaction between the hydrocarbons, oxides of
nitrogen and oxygen that causes release of ozone.
- Indigo dyestuff tends to fade or turn yellow due to ozone reaction.

The advantages associated with this process are:

- Color removal is possible without losing strength.
- This method is very simple and environmentally friendly because after laundering,

FLAT FINISH:

It is a special process done to impart fabric with an even wash down effect and very clean surface.
Originally liquid ammonia was used, but now use mercerization plus calendering processes to achieve the
flat surface.

Mercerization swells up the cotton fibers and allows the calendering to press flat the
surface.
They consider this as an imitation process to the use of ammonia, which is toxic and not
allowed in commercial use in most countries.

OVERDYE:

- Dyeing over the fabric or jeans to add another tone of color

- Most often used is a 'yellowy' overdye to create a 'dirty' look
- Also can be applied with spray gun or paintbrush for local coloring

SUNWASHING:

- A very light shade by bleaching and stoning

- Looks as if the sun faded the fabric

SUPER DARK STONE:

- Commercial term for an extra dark indigo color
- Results from a double-dyeing technique

SNOW WASH DENIM:

Denim treated with a variation of acid wash that imparts bright white highlights.
QUICK WASH DENIM:

• Aims at minimizing wash cycle time

• Results in more economical washes and solving many other washing problems faced by
launderes during fashion wash cycles
• The yarns are ring dyed using indigo giving 25 to 30% less fixed dye to obtain a given shade
• During wash cycle,indigo dye can be removed quickly,giving washed look

Advantages of quick wash denim:

1. Streaks develop in garments after washing process due to differences in dye

concentration of denim fabrics are avoided using a modified alkali-ph controlled system giving uniformity
of shade.
2. Amount of indigo dye required is less thus making it an economical process
3. Time required for washing is 20-30% less than that required for conventional denim.
4. Lesser enzymes and oxidising agent used
5. Environment friendly process
6. Back staining is minimised due to less concentration of of indigo dye in the wash liqour.

SELECTION OF DENIM FABRIC:

The right selection of fabric can help minimize the cost of treatment and to
solve environment related issues.

DIFFERENT COLOUR DEPTH FABRIC:

To cut processing time, effluent load, minimum damage to fabric and minimum use of
chemical, there are different depth of indigo on denim. For example, in case of ice wash
where we remove more than half the dye during washing, one can use lighter shade
fabric which will help to cut the process time, chemical consumption, effluent load. It will
help garment processor to process garment more economically and with minimum faults.

FLAT LOOK DENIM:

Different chemicals and processes are used to get flatter look on the denim garments. To meet this
requirement special denim fabric has been developed which offers flat look after washing.

QUICK WASH DENIM:

Quick wash denim fabric is dyed with modified technique of dyeing, so that during wash
cycle, indigo dye can be removed quickly, giving washed look at shorter washing cycle.
This results in more economical washes i.e. low water consumption, less usage of
chemicals, less time and retaining fabric strength.

TINTED DENIM:
With increase in demand of tinted/ overdyed look on garment, garment processor is using
an additional process of tinting/ overdyeing, which is time consuming. It consumes large
quantity of water and chemicals. It is also associated with the risk of patches and
unevenness on garments. Now the denim fabric is also available in tinted form which
saves processors time and risk.

GRAINY LOOK DENIM:

Different chemicals and processes are used to get grain look on the denim garments. To meet this
requirement special denim fabric has been developed which gives grainy look after processing of denim
garment.

SOFT FEEL DENIM:

To meet such requirement, different varieties of denim fabric are available, which are having inherent
softness. These fabrics require minimum application of softener at the garment stage

Conclusion
In this report we describe the manufacturing of denim
fabric. The demand of denim is increasing day by
day. World-consumption of denim- wears today is
equivalent of about 4,500 million meters per year of
denim fabrics.Generally saying people who don’t
know about denim then after reading this report you
get a sound knowledge about the whole process
which are carried out in denim preparation.