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    Lutterloh Advanced Guide

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    pattern making

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    ADVANCED GUIDE oS Se US ee ° LEARN DESIGNER’S SECRETS! ¢ MONEY SAVING METHODS! ¢ FIT PANTS PERFECTLY! © TIPS FOR BEGINNERS AND EXPERTS! ADVANCED GUIDE TO THE ILUTTERLOH PATTERN SYSTEM CONTENTS Tadex . Introduction .......4 The Golden Rule ..., Symbols Page Pattern Naking Tools The (BABEE VERE vere oes os boinatgy + How To Take Measurements ....... Make Vest Pattern .........005 Transfer Markings Cut Out Vest .. bie alee Pie + Fitting The Basic Vest Shoulder Adjustment Bust Dart Adjustment .. Body Length Adjustment Body Dart Placement/Fitting Facings ...,... Interfacings .. Linings .. Shoulder Pads are Sewing Instructions ............ 21,22 Pattern Taterchangeability 23,24,25,26 Drafting Pants ....... + 27,28 Fitting Pants Type A... +++ 29,30 Fitting Pants Type B. oe SG Bg! Dratting Skirts .. 33 Drafting Sleeves, Collars” 34 Drafting Pockets. Waistbands ...... 34 Using Demonstration Leaflet ....... 35 Children's Patterns ..........2.... 36 Men's Patterns .. scecte 9 8 Fabric Allowance/Suggestions ...... 37 Fabric Conversion Charts Stretch Fabrics ...., Customer's Letters The Author ...... THE LUTTERLOH PATTERN SYSTEM The Lutterloh Pattern System was developed in West Germany in 1935, by Mrs. Maria Aloisa Lutterloh. Today it is the most successful pattern system on the market, used by millions of severs around the vorld, The system is available in 25 countries and printed in 14 different languages. Several European fashion houses contribute to the pattern collection, to give you a wide range of classical, timeless and modern garments. The complete Lutterloh Pattern System contains 280 patterns, that are interchangeable, thus giving you thousands of different designs. Most patterns are for women; some patterns for men and children have been included as well. To update your pattern collection, 40 new patterns are published every season, Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter. ‘The Lutterloh System uses only 2 measurements to make perfect fitting patterns for any figure type or size. After you have made your first pattern, you will agree, this is the best pattern making method for today's busy sever. SIMPLE, FAST and ACCURATE | THE GOLDEN RULE Tt has been discovered long ago, that the human body is in perfect mathematical proportion within itself. Great artists, just like Leonardo Da Vinci, have used this knowledge, to create their beauriful masterpieces. ‘THE MEASUREMENTS OF THE HUMAN BODY ARE: = full length of body 1/2 H = upper part of body 1/4 H= length of leg from ankle to knee and length from chin to navel 1/6 H = length of foot 1/8 H = length of head, from crown to chin 1/10 H = height of face, also length of hand 1/12 H = width of face ‘The span tip t of laterally outstretched arms, from finger~ fingertip, is equal to the body height. ‘The forearm, from elbow to wrist, equals the length of the foot. The circumference of the little finger X 3, equals the wrist. These measurements apply to all healthy, fully groun adults. ENN CHU ROOZ ZENE OME OOED e ot eal F!| Dee Peete eee eee INTERNATIONAL front back side skirt sleeve cuff collar belt/waistband pocket yoke coat bow pleated part matching set dickey trimmings flounce Jabot apron pocket flap trousers sleeve front three times straight of grain ther elastic facing zipper fuller figure maternity wear pattern number #SS ES NSSAGBRSSSSESERTRSRSE = @® «.. TeCePcrr eee eee errr rere er eee) SYMBOLS PAGE cape tie loose part apron ribbon lapel hood basic pattern pleat center back buttonhole panel lace or trim blouse shoulder strap buckle frills bolero facings peplua jacket center front left side right side dining press stud hook and eye sewing sequence knit/stretch fabric contrasting color fabric allovance PATTERN MAKING TOOLS TOOLS INCLUDED WITH THE LUTTERLOH PATTERN SYSTEM 1, Lutterloh Pattern Diagrams* 2. Sizing Scale and Metric Tape* 3. Felt Pen 4. Push Pins 5. Scotch Tape ‘TOOLS RECOMMENDED FOR PATTERN DRAFTING Vellum Paper French Curve® Designer's Curve®™ Tailor's Curve® Shears Rotary Cutter Rotary Cutting Mat® Plywood Sheet 0.6cm (4") 61x122cm (24"x 48") Vellum Paper is a strong, stiff, non-tearing paper, that is critical to obtain that perfect fit for your basic vest and pants. (Blank newsprint is excellent to make all subsequent patterns. ) French Curve* is the original tool developed for pattern drafting. All patterns can be drafted with this tool. * Not available in stores. Designer's Curve * has been developed to make pattern drafting easier and faster. The Designer's Curv is used on collars, necklines, shoulders, dart: armholes, sleeve caps, sleeves and hip curves. Tailor's Curve * comes in two pieces, and has been developed for drafting pants. One piece is used for drawing the crotch curve. The long and gentle curve is used to drav inseams and hip curves. They are also suitable for necklines, raglan and dolman sleeves. Ss Rotary Cutter is like a rolling razor blade. Cutting is now possible in any direction with either right or left hand. Rotary Cutters can be used by people who suffer from arthritis or tendonitis. Nany layers of fabric may be cut with ease, leaving a clean, smooth, edge. The Rotary Cutter reduces the cutting time tremendously on fabrics and paper patterns. Rotary Cutting Mat is used together with the Rotary Cutter. The Rotary Cutter is very sharp and will damage any surface, except the Rotary Cutting Mat. The Nat protects your table and keeps the blade sharp. Sizes available: 24"x36", 40"x60"*, 48"x96"* Plywood is used under the Vellum Paper, to protect the table and to hold the Push Pin firmly. (Cardboard cutting boards will not hold the pin.) * Not available in stores. 6 THE BASIC VEST Every person using the Lutterloh System, must have a BASIC VEST PATTERN out of paper,(it doesn't have to be sewn) in order to get the perfect fit that you expect froma designer garment. Making the vest, will give you practice in pattern making*and teach you how to fit a garment. Correct shoulder width, smooth armholes and necklines, proper dart position and correct body length. ‘The vest will be your BASIC PATTERN, and your reference guide to all Lutterloh patteras. TIP: If you change weight, (10 £44 on mone, ) make anew vest, as the whole patter shape will change, z Bust = 100cm, Hip caccea= Bust = 960m Hip 96cm HOW TO TAKE TI MEASUREMENTS You need only tvo measurements to enlarge the Lutterloh pattern: BUST MEASUREMENT Is used to enlarge all pattern parts above and including the waist. Lift the tape over the shoulder blades, under the arms and over the fullest part of the bust. HIP MEASUREMENT Is used to enlarge all pattern parts below the waist. Measure over fullest part of the hip and just below the stomach, MATERNITY WEAR All patterns can be used for maternity wear, provided you choose a straight through cut. (No waist line). Take the Bust measurement as usual. For the Hip measurement, measure over fullest part of the hip d lift the tape to the fullest part of the stomach. TIP; Ael Luttertoh patterns have the wearing ease included. Take the measurement according to how garment is worn, BATHING SUITS, LINGERIE Measure over kare skin. DRESSES, BLOUSES, TOPS, SKIRTS AND PANTS Measure over undergaraents, VEST, JACKETS AND COATS Measure over ktouse, pullover on dress. VEST PATTERN * Spread out pattern paper. 60x90cm (24x36") * Tape yellow pattern diagram onto the paper. (Folded so that only front vest is showing.) * Find the Bust measurement on the sizing scale. (Always start working with the Bust measurement and the upper part of the pattern.) * Push pin through corresponding line on the scale. (Where the dot or hole is.) * Then, push the pin and scale into the center cross Point of the pattern. (Exactly where the two lines meet. In some cases the cross is outside the pattern. An arrow on the cross, points toward the Pattern to which the cross belongs. ) * Align the edge of the sizing scale parallel inst the line with # 19. (Fig. a) * Extend the measuring tape. (Hold the tape taut with thumb and forefinger so the tape rotates freely on the pivot point.) Match the cm f 19 of the pattern and draw a dot onto the paper. * Next is 19cm, 11 (= bust point), 374, 36, 35, 33, 19, 15, 18, 18 and STOP. MEASUREMENT, REMOVE THE PIN from the center cross Point and scale. MOVE THE PIN TO THE NUMBER OF ‘THE HIP MEASUREMENT. * Insert the pin back into the center cross point and continue with the Hip measurement, for all numbers below the Waist, # 26, 21 and 20, * Remove pin with tape and scale. * Use straight edge of ruler to join the dots. (Dray straight lines first.) * Use curved edge of ruler on curved lines. (Try to connect 3 dots, and start at the more gentle part of the curve.) (Fig. b) * Transfer all markings from the pattern di onto your pattern. rem IP YOUR HIP MEASUREMENT IS DIFFERENT FROM THE BUST ‘SHOULD! ADJUSTMENT PROBLEM: Pattern feels tight through the shoulders, front and/or back. Back neck line seems to big. This occurs when the shoulders slope leas than the pattern. SOLUTION: Open the shoulder seam at the armhole to lem (3/8") from the neck line. Let the pattern drop until the neck line fits smoothly. Measure the opening at the armhole, divide in 2, add to pattern and taper to original seam at the neck. (See example). ‘The opposite is done for sloping shoulders. APPLICATION OF SHOULDER ADJUSTMENT: ‘The same adjustment will have to be done on all Lutterlok patterns that are worn without shoulder pads. If a sleeve is present the same adjustment has to be made on the sleeve cap in order to fit the adjusted armhole, (See example.) SHOULDER BUST DART ADJUSTMENT 1, Mark bust point on the pattern. 2, Measure 24cm (1") back from bust point. 3. Redraw the dart lines. 4. Fold new dart and adjust shoulder seam line. TIP: Darts should stop 2hen (1") kefore the fullest part of the ust. (C, D, and E cups, 3-6 om (14-14") lower SIDE BUST DART ADJUSTMENT 1, Follow previous example 1,2 and 3. 4. Fold new dart and adjust side seam, higher lower * Remove the pattern diagram and set your pattern aside. * Make vest back. Start with Bust measurement # 36, 36, 32, 19, 15, 154, 14 and change pin to the Hip urement # 224 and 22. * Transfer all markings. * Cut out the pattern. (Using a rotary cutter is very quick.) The finished pattern now corresponds with your measurements. ‘TRANSFER MARKINGS STRAIGHT OF GRAIN: Parallel along center front. WAIST: At # 18 (side seam) straight across the pattern, parallel with hemline. CENTER CROSS POINT: Straight across the pattern, parallel with the waist line. (This is where the Pattern is adjusted, according to your body length.) BODY DART: Draw a straight line parallel along the CF, same distance from CF as bust point. SEWING SEQUENCE: "A" under armhole. (See below) TIP: Cut out the front pattern piece first, Lay 4t on top of the back pattern and check abi ailjoining seam Lengths. Adjust back piece if necessary. FITTING THE BASIC VEST ® Fold bust dart to CF and pin to hold in place. * Fold body dart in half. (Along ---~ line.) * Tape front and back pieces together at shoulder and side s Check the following points for a proper fit: SHOULDER: Adjust for square or sloping. (Pg. 13) BUST DART: Use pen to mark bust point. (Pg. 14) BODY LENGTH: Use pen to mark pattern at the waist on CB, side seam and CF. (Pg. 15) BODY DART: Pin or pinch in as much as needed, according to the shape and size of your vaist. (Pg. 16) ‘THE EXACT SAME CHANGES THAT ARE MADE ON THE VEST, (WILL HAVE TO BE MADE ON ALL LUTTERLOH PATTERNS, before cutting the fabric. TIP: Wear proper undergarments, and a cotton 7- think without shoulder pads, fon the fitting of the vest. BODY LENGTH ADJUSTMENT * Measure the distance from your waist (the pen mark on the pattern) to the waist of the pattern, on CF, side seam and CB. * Mark these measurements from the cross point down towards the waist (see examples), on CF, side seam and CB. * Shorten or lengthen accordingly, (Body length is not adjusted ot the waist, in order not to change tne shape of the waist line.) TIP: Ip the front on tack vs different in Length, example CF und side seam 2em (3/¢"! shonter, and CB ty bem (14") shorter, shorten the vest by Zen 03/6") faont and Gack. Redraw the warst- and henline 2em (3/4") higher on the CB onty and cut off the excess at the hemline. The CB hentine will Ce uneven on the pattern, but book straight on the person. BODY DART PLACEMENT ‘The front body dart is always located below the bust point, and the center of the dart is parallel with the center front of the garment. The back body dart is always located below the shoulder blades, and the center of the dart is parallel with the center back. Fold the center of the dart on the pattern and pin it in, according to the shape and size of your vaist. ‘The darts should end 24cm (1") before the bust point and the shoulder blades. Use this technique on all patterns that call for body darts, to get the look fit that you desire, 71P: Cut the darts cut on the pattem, then use chatk to matk the darts onto the fakric. Tailor tack the darts. The darts with ke connect as you sew the garment. FACINGS Generally necklines and sleeveless armholes require facings. They are shown on your Lutterloh pattern WIM and marked with an ST. Draw all facing pieces directly onto your pattern, using a different color pen. Recommended facing width is 34-Scm (1J- 2"). You may add facings where none is shown, in order to finish the garment differently than shown. 1. Draw the facing line 3}-5em (11-2") from the edge, following the same shape as the area to vellum paper to trace your individual facing pieces and transfer all markings. 3. Cut out facing pieces. (Remember to add seam allowance) UIP: The facing shoulil always be a Little smutter then the garment to avoid gaping neckLines and armholes. To ensune a smooth fit, cut ahl facing pieces hem (4") smaller on shoukiler seams (for neckeures and aamholes), and on side seams (Lor armholes). An extra hem (4") can be taken to compensate for round shoulders at the back/ shoulder seam, on front/ aide seam for a fuller bust. INTERFACING Interfacings are not marked on the Lutterloh patterns. Interfacing is used to add stability and shape to certain parts of a garment. Facings usually require interfacing. Interfacing should be lighter weight than the fashion fabric. BLOUSES AND DRESSES Collar, neckline facing, front facing, plackets and cuffs. JACKETS AND COATS Collar, lapel, neckline facing, front facing, plackets, cuffs, pockets, sleeve hems and jacket/coat hems. PANTS AND SKIRTS Waistband. ‘TRIMS Fabric covered buttons, fabric belts, appliques, cut-in corners and other stress point: TP: Fusikie interfacing 1s ty fon the easiest and foe kndl Pubeles andl on 1008 ccelate fashion fatrics, (Satin taffeta, jacquard). Absays make a sample, DRAFTING PANTS Take Hust, Hip and Waist measurements. Use Bust measurement for Waist points only. Use Hip measurement for all points below the Waist. Join all dots. (1f a dot is out of line, realign the dot according to the pattern diagram.) Transfer all symbols. (Straight of grain is from the center of the leg hem through the cross point. Remove the pattern diagram. Compare your Waist measurement against the pattern, Divide the difference (plus or minus) by 4, and ad or subtract that amount on the side seams. Redraw the side seam from vaist to hip. (Fig. c) Cut out the pattern. Tape inseam of pant together and try on. Adjust leg length at cross point. (Leg length is not adjusted at the hem, in order not to change the style line of the leg.) TIP: Fokd pleats Loward the center front. This well conceal a tummy and give a stimner Look. Redrus the straight of gaain from the center of the front keg hem, to the Lirst pleat on the waist. (Fig. c) Fon styles without pleats, straight of yaain

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