File2-Saris of India

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o The word saree is said to have originated from the Sanskrit word. Chira that means cloth ..

o It is learnt that, it is more than 5000 years old!

o Saree is still the most preferred garment for the women in India. The variety of 'colors, patterns, weaves and draping styles make the sari one of the world's most fascinating costumes


o Brocade

() Chanderi t-)Maheshwari r- K.' _ t

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o.Jarndani oBatucharl

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e As in the History of the India Banaras is known since Rig-Veda about 1500 year Be and also a period of Ramayana and Mahabharata come to know identical reference about the fame of Banarasi Sari and Fabrics

C) In the ancient time Banaras was famous for the weaving of cotton sari and dress materials, but slowly switched over to silk weaving, during the Mughal period around 14th century weaving of brocades with intricate designs using 'gold & Silver threads was the specialty of Banaras.

! JnJ;.eqistered .versiDn .. .oleese re.qjsterd)NIIvW.wor.d~pdf-~onv~_rt._com_ . __ f:l esanaras: saris are consmere ione 'm,r:Lfle nnest saris In'

I ndia, l~in'elA(rn for its ge.ld and silver 19<.rmca:de, 'fine silk a'na opulent embroidery, which makes tnem highly sought after.

IJThe materials used for making them include pure silk, organza and ,geergette~ The crux of the Banarasi Saree is the use of gold and silver threads to weave the motifs

() These saris are made of finely woven silk: and are decorated with intricate design, and because' of these 'engravings, these saris are relatively heavy.

Q There were two types of' materials; the former ,bei'ng the kinkhab which had immense weight to wear and was hence used for trappings, hangings and furnishing. The stuffwhich incorporated Zari patterns were light in 'weight, considered most appropriate for clothing and were considered as genuin,e brocades.

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Brocades are the textile which has a regular weaving where the weft thread passes over thewarpnormelly. Fine heavy ga~g:e si'lk yams are woven Intncately as warp and weft along with gold and silver threads (zan) to create elaborate brocade designs _ In

detail, the weft thread passes over and 'under the warp thread 'weaving the silk base of the sari where in the special gold and silver threads are

transfixed in' between br 'skippin,g the passage 0 the

regular weft over a certain num_ber of warp threads as per the design_

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Theirspecial characteristics are Mug.hal inspired designs such asC) intricate' intertwining floral and foliate motifs,

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o a string of ,upr!ght leaves called jhallar at the outer edge' of border 'is a characteristic of these sarees.

() 'Scenes ot vill~ges., fairs, flowers, clouds are also often portrayed.

Other distinctive features are Heavy gold work, Compact weaving, figures with' small details, metallic visual effects, rich pallus, jaal (a

net like pattern), and mina 'work -

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Ke:e:ping the different design characteristics in mind, Banaras brocade sarees can be divided into several types -

c; Amni brocades,

C) Amru brocades

C) Tanchol brocade, l) Abrawan brocade C) Kinkhab Brocades

Unregistered version .. please register. VvVvW.word-pdf-convert.com Amn I b FntlaCl~es· are another form of Banaras .sarE!flS·thal are found in

Indian marKet 8'nd are considered as one of the tradilipnal sarees: The supplementa'ry.:weft patterning of these brocades is wove'n in 'silk, not in zari thread. The Ihreads may be either unlwisled~ giving a 1Lthick1L line to the wove·n c;lesign or they may be. made. of twisted ya'ms that produce a finer, denser pattern.

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"'1 n Knab~ - Kink'habs are heavy .gllt brocades With consllE!rably more zari yis~ble than

underlying~silk,. They are' com,monly worn as wedding ·~rees today!, especially in northern

I ndia. I n the 'eighteenth and nineteenth centuries t~ were, po,pular dress fabrics among the Muslim upper classes. The other kind of zaribroc;adeswe.re once' known as pot-than!

,. bafthana" or" bafta,. !but are often just called ,. brocades" in recent times, These. are the ,classic

brocaded sarees associated with twentieth-century Bana~. The zari usually' accounts for 50 percent or more of the "fab~ surface.

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(J The crowning glory of Indian textiles was Kinkhabor "Brocade' _ This is a fabric woven out of silver threads., whiCh makes it ve'ry expensive, The thread is drawn out of 'silver and then plated withgo.ld_

o Therefore, the expensive dresses made, 'with brocade are meant only for special occasions _. weddings., religious rituals and ceremonies, attending of durbars or roya'i courts and such like_

() The brocade became a rage among the earty European settlers in India_

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Ground tabric is transparent o.rganza and patterning is done

with zari or silk.


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"() Tan ch oi was brought. to. India from China by the three (Parsi) brothers named Choi., 'who 'settled down in Surat to evolve a unique tab'riC - a harmonious 'blend of Indian and Chinese 'styles_

"() "The tancho.i is a densely patterned heavy fabric with no floats on the reverse; the unused "threads are woven into the foundation at the back

() Traditionally' the face of the fabric. has a satin weave grou nd with small p.attems made by the weft threads., repeated over the entire surface."

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o Abrawans, that I'itera'ily mea'ning flowing' water, Tissue sarees, us,uallywoven with the finest silk thread are also very

popular across India. -

C) The transparent materials of these .

sarees are usually woven with the finest silk threads

o have a fine ,si'lk warp with a zari weft_ These give the sarees a metallic sheen and luster. Different colouredzan threads arewoven into supplementaryweft patternsupon the sheer ground_ .

The supplementary threadwork of many Banaras 'brocades is woven as floats across the back. The borders and the end piece of this type of saree have a diaper of diamond pattern's, that are enclosed by a border of running paisley rnotits.

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( )Chanderi sarees are the famous sarees produced in a small town called Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh

C) Apart from this, many other towns further south , such as' Berhanpurand M,aheshwar are also, considered as the rnaior centres of producing Chanderi sarees

C) Chanderi sarees are very li'ght and ideal for Indian summers.

C) UsuaUy in subtle hues, they· possess an air of unmatched sophistlcation

o Its beauty lies in its, simpli,city, airyfeel.nerrow borders and decently desiqned anchals with·buttis


() Chanderi is famous for weaving extremely fine zari band (patti) right up to the selvedge edge known as Piping kinar.

()The Ohanderi sari is woven in cotton (organdy) as well as silk (organza).

C In Chanderi, traditional crafts persons used silk as warp and fine cotton as weft.

o In the silk "Zari" sarees, craft influences of the Varanasi style are, visibleThe chanderi saris 'generallyhave a rich gold border and two gold bands on the pallav. The more expensive sarees have. g'ol'd checks with lotus roundels all over which are. known as butis,

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IJThes,e sarees are a rare fusion of soft & contrasting colors.

G The plain cotton ones are with borders and have stripes and floral patterns.

Q There are also ones which have butis on the body of the saree as well.

IJ Silk'sarees are woven with zari bar-doers and have zari and thread work a'il through the length of sari, giving it an elegant and dazzling look

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() Chanderi sari is known for soft colors and the harmonious balance between the border and the body of the saree.

()The Ohanderi colors always show a preference 'for harmony' between the borders and the· 'body of the sar.ees. However, there are 'some typical contrastinq cornbinations like black against red and Ganga - Jamuna sarees, with green on one' border and red or Kurnkum o.n the other with a natural offwhite body,

c The. traditional colors are. pastel shades of pink, green" peach and b'lue. ere-am and off white is also used now.

C_i Now' a days, earls in all dark and light shades are' being produced. For example, maroon; dark blue, g'ree"n, etc.


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The usual motifs are-

) 'flowers, () Bundi, () Kerl,

~~ Phul-patta t_.} Phul butta

~ 'G'inni or coin

. - - - - ,

c round buttes (asrafis), G net 'patterns (jaal) and

o 'G·eomet.ric desiqns are also used.

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1) Na.rrow ,bo'rder:

These are the plain sarees having a very narrow border of complementary-warp zari and an endpiece 'containing a few narrow zari bands, 'or one. 'single, wider band.


2) Broader' borde'r: These are the sarees with' broader borders 'woven in supplementary warp zari with colored supplementary warp s·ilk. embellishments, woven into small repeat floral or .geometrical designs_ The end

piece consisted of the border elements repeated twice as two parallel bands, often with narrow woven lines- and many buti 'woven between them


~-'\ Wide border: 'The third type called do-chashrnee (two stream's) is no 'longer made but had wide borders with ,brightly coloured supplementarywarp silk in .a satin weave upon which were'

supplementary bands, of

white geometric patterns.

I n some, sarees the,

borders we're reversible,

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C) These sarees are' 'largely produced in the town of Ma'heshwar in Madh,yaPradesh_ The origin of the Maheshwari sarees dates back tothe 18th century, when the state of Indore in Madhya Pradesh was ruled by Queen Ahilyabai Holkar.

C) According to 'legends, Queen A'hilyabai ordered 'craftsmen from 'Surat and 'Malwa to design special9-yard sarees to be gifted to royal guests arid relatives. The sarees that were produced by these craftsmen became popular as M'aheshwari sarees.

c It is believed that Queen ,Ahilyabai herself created the desiqn of the first saree.

l:J These sarees were originally worn by the ladies of royal status, but nowadays, they ereavaileble in both' national and international markets.


() The maheshwari saree, mostly in coHon and silk, is charactereed by its simplicity_

( ) The body is plain or has stripes or checks, -

() The reversible border of'the saree 'which can be 'worn either side., is a specially_

() Originally.,. the Maheshwari saree was made of pure silk_ Then in course of lime., fhese sarees began to 'be made in pure coHon and with a mixture of silk and coHon (silk yam in the warp and coHon in the weft)

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~~ The, typical Maheshwari saree is either chequered, plain or has stripes, combined with complementary colors.

Q These sarees have a, trademark' border and pallu, setting them apart from the Paithani, Patola, Kancheepuram

and the rest.

G Originally, the pallu is particularly distinctive with 5 strips, 3 coloured and two white alternating, running alonq its width.

o The reversible border of the saree known as bugdi which can be worn either side" is a specialty,

o It has a variety of leaves and flowers on the border, in karnphool pattern, which is quite popular.

C_iThe' use of zari and kinari is also unique to' the Maheshwari saree, The, golden thread is used to weave exotic motifs and' designs o'n the body, border and pallu of the saree.


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~-'\ The gol'den thread is used to weave exotic motifs and

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desiqns 'on the. flowdah (body) kinar (border) and the.

anchra (pallu) of t.he saree.

(, Motifs like Gu,ldasta, Aambuta, Ghunggroo, Chatai kinar, Bel phool, JaI phool, Hansa, Mayur, Ambi Buti and Chandtara are used,

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() Mah'eshwari sarees were initially made 'only in dark shades like red, maroon, black, purple and green.

(, Today, these sarees are also being made in lighter shades and gold and silver threads are being made use of.

e In local dialect, the most popular colors used in Maheshwari sarees are 'Angoori' (grap'e green), 'Dalirnbi' (deep pink), 'Gul Bakshi' (rnaqenta), 'Jaarnla' (purple), 'Tapkeer' (deep brown), 'Aarnrak' (golden), 'Rani' (deep

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pink), 'Dhaani' (gte'en) and 'Kaashi' (Ii.g,ht purple).

Usually, vegetable dyes are used in the preparation of these sarees,

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() Ch'an'drakala - The plain ones are known as chandrakala( midnight blue land baingani chandrakala, which is woven with a blackish violet warp and a chocolate weft,

) Chandratara - the moon and star desiqn, has lengthwise stripes of two Shades and the pattern is arranged with four stripes of one shade attainted by one stripe of another shade, The reversible border of the saree which can be worn either side, is a specialty,

c Karnphool pattern - is, quite popular.it has a variety of leaves and flowers on the border. The palla of Maheshwari saree is also distinctive with five stripes, three coloured and two white alter.nating




(] Kota saree is th e specialty fro m th e desert state of Rajasthan.

CJ The fabric derives its name from the city of the same narneThe sarees are made in and' around the city of Kota.

'= It is also popularly known as Masuria Malmal.

Maruria means Mysore, the place where the weaving of this particular cloth originated. The weavers from Mysorewere brought to Kota between the 17th and 18th centuries


>~ Kola saree is renowned for its transparency and weightlessness. It is worn mostly during summer.

IJ Cotton yarn of different thickness, al,on'g with 'silk is used in the weaving. The silk' give,s th"e necessary transparency, while cotton provides strength to the fabric

) The lack. of uniformity in the thickness of the fibers creates geometric patterns in between, which are locally called as 'khats. and these are made so skillfully that fabric becomes transparent, which 'is a unique characteristic of this wonder hand-woven fabric

Q Other types of weaving patterns are also used.


~-'\ The cloth is dyed after the, weaving is doone.

() In some clothes, requiring special patterns, the yarns are dye"d in different colors before weaving.

--FOften the sarees are embellished with zari work in the border.


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o Basicallywhite is the' basic color and later, the saree is dyed in different vibrant hues

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Kota Saree are available in 3 different typesPlain, Printed and Zari.

1 )Plain Kota saris - the checks are formed either by coarse cotton or golden threads.

2) Printed Kota- generally have white or off white background and have sanganeri patterns. Traditionally these serees are either with single motifs 0 r jails.

3) Zari Kota .. where the borders are embellished with sequence and zariwork.


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i:J The earliest ment.ion of Jamdani and its development as an industry is to be found in Kautilya's Arthashashtra (book of economics) wherein it is stated that this fine cloth used to be. made in Beng'al and Pundra (parts of modern Banqladesh)

o 'Whether figured or flowered" jamdani is a woven fabric in cotton, and it is undoubtedly one of the. varieties of the finest muslin. It has been spoken of as the most artistic textile of the Bangladeshi weaver. Tradit.ionally woven around Dhaka and created on the loom brocade,

[arndani is fabulously rich in motifs.


>~ The. word Jamdani is of Persian origin, from 'Jam' meaning flower and 'Dani' meaning a vase' or a

container. -

c Jarndani is an ancient flnely woven cotton fabric called muslin with g,eom.etric or floral designs. Jamdani sarees are in cotton, pure silk and tussar silk.

o extra weft desiqninp

Q Jamdani sarees are much sought after by fashionconscious working Women for their eleqance, comfort and light weiqht. Bengal is a larqe hub af jamdani sarees suppliers and different kind of jamdani sarees,

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~~ The base fabric for Jarndani is unbleached cotton yarn and the desiqn is 'woven using bleached cotton yarns so that a I.ight-a-nd-:dark· effect is created

oThe method of weaving resembles tapestry work in which small shuttles of c-olored, gol'd or silver threads, are passed through the weft.

~-'\ For traditional jarndani weaving, a very elementary pit

loom i's used - .

o The butis across the warp", the border and' anchal are woven by using separate bobbin's of yarn for each colour. The fine bobbins are made from tamarind wood or bamboo.

('After completion the cloth is washed and starched.


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~~ Jarndani patterns are 'mostly of geo'metric" plant, and floral designs and are said to originate in Persian and 'Mugha,1 fusion thousands of ye,ars ago.

()The'mo:st coveted .desiqn is known as the panna hazaar (literally: a, thousand emeralds) in which the floral pattern is hi'gh'lighted with flowers interlaced like jewels by

means of g'old and silver thread, '

JThe' kalka (paisley), 'whose oriqin may be traced to the painted manuscripts of the Mu,ghal period, has emerged as a highly popular pattern.

c Yet another popular pattern in jarndani is the phulwar usually worked- on pure black, blue black grey' or offwhite background colours,

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o Indigo

C) Pure black oBlue black cJGrey [)Offwhite

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~-'\ Daccai Jarndani

()Tan'gai'l Jamdani

o Dhaniakhali Jarndani

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C) Daccai Jarndani sarees are

distint from other varieties by its very fine texture resembling muslin and the elaborate and ornate workmanship.

c Extra weft technique

C) These sarees have multicolored linear or florel motifs all over the body and border and have an exquisitely' designed elaborate pallu.

C) The mango motif signifying fertility, growth, and marital bliss is a very popular design in Jamdani sarees.

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() West Bengal Jamdanis are __ often called Tan,gail Jamdani and they ~picallyhave many small buti woven throughout the field often di~gona'lIy·_ They are now woven In manyareas of West 'B·engal in such

villages. as Dhatrigram, Saithia, Phulia, 'Samudraga'r1s, and

Shantipur, - -

l:J Tangail sarees are often highlight~ with gold or silv~r thread, 'which heightens their eleqanee.

C) Those from ·S,hantipur have _ black or dark blue bodies with

brighter buti ~


o Thi~_sari iS~D simpli~cation of the ]amd,anl technique ot

Dhaka which has given it. the extra-weft omamentetion

C) Todaythe Ta'ngail Jamdanis have developed a style of its own with a distinctly Modernist l-lindu Aesthetic and it is now acquiring the vibrant colours of' southern India and bold animal designs.of Andhra Pradesh.

C) Many arealso made in silk instead of cotton because s,ilk is easier and faster to weave and weavers are usually paid more for weaving silk, fabric

than cotton. .'


o There is.a key difference in the weavin.g technique of extra weft designing between' jamdanis and ta'ngails; the embroiderythread in jamdani is, inserted after every ground pick whereas in tangails the embroidery thread is inserted after two' .ground picks.

C) The main characteristic of tangails is the extra weft butis, tiny motifs repeated all over the ground.

o Startin.g with a single color on the border., the··weavers have begun to use two to three colors to render it a I meenakari' effect.


()The emphasis is on rich warm colors, both vibrant and muted. The focus is on the ancha./ and the border, which may have. alternate lines of contrasting shades with an interplay of small paisley, rosette and geometri,c

designs.

i:J The borders of traditional tangail sarees displayed motifs such as pedm« (lotus) pradeep (earthen lamp) and the. famous "eensn paar' (fish scales look),

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() The Dhaniakhali was famous mainly for men's dhoti;s and pla'in

bordered sans, ,

o Dhaniakhali sarecS are woven in near opaque white, surfaces with

contrasting borders in red, black, purple., and oranqe, emphasized by a, serrated edge molif_

o The material for the D,hania'khali sari is somewhat coarse and heavier than other textiles from Bengal but suits the middle class budget and as such 'is popular,

c) Gradually the border was broadened to six or even eight inches., and adorned wih a variety of stripes in muga or.zari _

,

C) Having a tighter weave than the,

langail 'or shantipuri., it is more hardy and' durab'le_


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I aan r esaree

() Wesl 'Bengal is famous for its handloom sarees popularly called as Tanl sarees, These sarees, woven from cotton, are famous for Iheir lightness and transparency _

() The word T aant literallY means IMade On The loom' _

o Their lpallu' (falling edge of Ihe saree.) is em be.llis h ed With de I icale, embmidery_

() Tant sarees come in a, wide: ra'nge of styles and colors. They are, ideal as a 'casual wear and as eveningwear ,during' summers. Theirbeau.ty makes fhem eligible 10 be worn in a party, also

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() Baluchar '8'utidar (also known as Baluchari or Baluchori) saris of M.urshidabad,West Bengal are. the most charming of all silk saris

in India_ -

() Baluchari got its name, from a small village called aBa'I,uchariiC, which is situated in ,Mu,rshidabad_

o This is mainly inspired by the, J'am,dan'i of Dhaka,

() Baluchari sarecs come in somber

colors with silk 'brocaded designs on the palla and thebOrder_

These sarecs are defined by the pictorial details· that are created

with great artistry in the sarees ..

( ) Sometimes the bordersot Baluchari sarees are embelliShed with scenes from the, Ramayana_

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o The important feature is the w'hite .outli'ning of the motifs

like animal's, vegetation, miniscule images of burnan beings, scenes from' the Ramayana, rnarriaqe processions, brides in palanqeins.horse riders ethnic musicians to name a few.

C) Baluchar sarees essentially have a silk base w,ith silk brocaded designs

o Nowadays Baluchari style sarees are woven usi'nghi,ghly

mercerised cotton thread and silky threadwork· ornament in bold colors _ The cloth is very fine,'with a soft drape.

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() Weaving', of' Baluchar sari is a very arduous job, The: designs are so complicated that sometimes a' dozen weavers are employed to work on a single piece of sari.

"() Generally'two designs are used for the ,Anchals., two for the sari borders ·and two for the ,buti motifs. It takes almost siX' months 10 creale a single piece of Baluchar 'sari.

o The 'Baluchar bootidars almost avoid strong contrasts. Each pattern is treated in a colour which harmonees 'with the ground on which it is laid.


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o With respect to their colours, whereinspite of a rich cornposifion, the Baluchar bootidars almost avoid strong contrasts.

Each pattern is treated in a colour which harmoniseswith the ground on which it is laid.

(] The most popular colours used are

red

. J

blue,

yellow, green and scarlet

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The sari has large flowing kalka motifs in the centre surrounded by narrow ornamental borders. These are framed by a series of figural motifs worked in" rows around the kalkas.

The various designs de·picting narrative folktales in thepallu of the sarees are as:

C) A woman riding a horse .holding a rose in one hand with her plait

fI:ying· behind her.

e) Pleasure boat, ·with two lovebirds on top. e) Traditional muslim courtscenes.

() Women smoking hookah ..

l:J Puranic tales or legends.of Ramayana and Mahabharata are also depicted on the classic baluc.hari sarees etc.

The most distinctive feature of·Baluchari sarees is their elaborate borders and pallu.





() is a variety of sari, named after the Paithan town in Aurangabad Maharashtra state where they are woven by hand. Mad'e from very fine silk, it is considered as one of the richest saris in Maharashtra.

) Paithni sarees re-flects the valuable, legacy that was passedfr.om gen,eration to generation and gives the elegance of text.ile and fabric that. lent the splendor to the royal durbar oferstwhile lndia.

~-'\ The art of weaving Paithani flourished in 200B.C. Sin'ce then Paithani is coveted in India as a, precious heirloom passing on from generation to g'enerati'on.

C_i Real Paithani is hand woven pure silk and go,ldlsi.lve'r


C) Paithani is an art of traditional handloorn .textile creation 'in finest mulbeny silk~ gold and silverzari, arresting colors and intricate designs and motifs that one admires in museum as proud relics of bygone era ..

C) The harmony between the design' of the borders and the overa'il color is also important, thus w,hat color should go with what designs is predetermined _

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A, combination of eriss-crossinq border design along 'with colourful 'motifs on the pallu make a typical Paith,ani_ W'hile the border threadwork in' traditional Paithani was woven' in gold thread (zeti), subsequently, silvertbread with a ~gold finish began to be, used. The end-piece of traditional Paithani sarees are woven with g'old .thread 'in its

'warp thereby making' a shimmery base for the colourful motifs to be worked 'into the weft_

Un Miotif&e rs ion, pie as e re 9 i ste r. W#N. wo rd-p df-co nve rt. co m

D,ue.' to proxim'ity to Ihe Ajanla caves, the· in.ftuence otthe Buddhist paintin~ can be seen in fhe woven Pailhani molifs:

,BO"rder

() The Kamal or Iolus flower on which Buddha sits or stands "() The Hans molif

The Ashraffi molif

(

...

() TheAsawalli (flowering vines), became very' popular during the Peshwa's period

The Bangadi Mo~, peacock in ban,gle () The Tola-Ma'ina

(

-,

Small molifs like circles, stars, kuyri, rui phool, cluslers Of 3 leaves", were very common fOr the body of Ihe sari.

'Pall'u

()Muniya, a kind of parrol used in borders and always found in green colo.ur

with an occasional red' louch at the moulh

o Panja, a geomelrical flower-like motif, most. often oullined in red' ()laher, design is done in Ihe ·cenlre 10 slren'glhen the zari

o Mulhada, ageomelrical design

( ) Asawali, a, flower pol with a flowering planl (") Mor, a peacock


coiors

The silk saree body is usually in colours likeC) m,ag· enta

- J

Q peacock blue]

() turmeric yellow "and C) crimson.

Dual-shaded sarees, called 'dhuo-cheev' (light and shadow) are also made with different colours in the warp and weft] for example] red and green.



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