Women’s Fashion in Medieval Japan

Japan, like all cultures, had found their own style and clothing. Simplicity and beauty are
significant and the clothing had represented much of that. There are many different and
unique clothes and dresses for women that came out of the shogunate period.

When did different styles/clothing arrive?

The oldest style found dates back to between the 3rd and 5th century. There were clay
figures (women and men) found wearing two-piece clothing which had a jacket with
detailed patterns and shapes on the sleeves. The jackets were then flared at the bottom
away from the hips and curved. Women wore the jacket over a pleated skirt. The
jackets were called kinu and the women’s skirts were named mo. Two-piece clothing
was popular and common at that time.

There is also a court costume for empresses called junihitoe. These are only worn on
special occasions such as ceremonies and coronations. It weighs several kilograms and
has 12-20 layers of silk robes. This came in the Nara period (mid 700’s).

Kimonos became Japans traditional clothing in the 1500s. They arrived in the Hein
period (794-1192). The main parts of it have not been changed much since then.
Kimono before meant clothing but now it related to the traditional clothing.

Kimono
The kimono has very long sleeves and goes all the way down to the heels. Women’s
kimono is much more colourful than men’s ones. The kimono has an obi which is a sash
wrapped around and tied at the back. A yukata is a more casual and light kimono for
summer and indoors. There are sandals called geta usually worn with the kimono.

Were there clothes for different social classes?

The answer is yes. The quality, material and design of the clothes especially kimonos
depended on ones rank in the feudal system. Emperors would wear the highest quality
kimonos. Merchants, peasants, artisans wore very rough types of kimonos made of
cotton. The rest of the upper class like samurai women would wear beautiful kimonos
made of comfortable silk as silk was significant in Japan and the Japanese specialized
in it.
There were also different clothes for different people of age. Young people and children
wore bright and several colours to show and represent their youth. Older people,
generations and especially samurai wore darker colours like grey and black to show
their wisdom, modesty and old age.

Colour was also a symbol of rank in Medieval Japan. Red sometimes meant you were
associated with Chinese families, and green meant that you were associated with
Korean families.

There were kimonos for different people. The kimono furisode is used for unmarried
women. Tomesode is for married women.

How was it made?

Raising silkworms had already arrived in Japan. Silk was regarded as most beautiful
and for higher ranked people and groups. Cotton was for the lower rank of people.
Linen was one of the oldest materials found. Hakama were first made from Aizome
which is a traditional method of dyeing. It is filled with indigo plants. It starts from dark
purple then after bleeding and washing it turns to different shades of blue. Kimono is
made from only one long roll of fabric. The normal size of one roll is 0.38m x 13m. The
roll is split into 8 parts for the two sleeves, two front parts, two back parts, the collar etc.
It is sewn with straight line stitches. There are some weaving and dyeing techniques.
One is Nishijin-Ori which is woven textile where they use many colourful yarns and
make patterns. There is Yuzen dyeing, widely known in Japan. Yuzen dyeing is used for
obi sashes and kimonos. The designs have lots of nature on them like birds and plants.

What events were they worn in?

At events, split-toe white socks would be worn with a kimono.
An elaborate kimono would be put on top of a pastel or white one at weddings.
Brides wearing a pastel or white hat with flowers
Women would wear a special kimono called chubrisode at weddings, parties, new years
eve celebrations etc.
Are there any stories/symbols/art?
Yes, there are artworks that give visual representation.

REFERENCES
sites.google.com. (n.d.). Clothing - Japan Under The Shoguns. [online] Available at:
https://sites.google.com/site/japanundertheshoguns7k/life-under-the-tokuawa-sogunate/clothing.

Encyclopedia Britannica. (n.d.). Dress - Japan. [online] Available at:

https://www.britannica.com/topic/dress-clothing/Japan [Accessed 3 Jun. 2020].

MEDIEVAL JAPAN. (2019). FASHION. [online] Available at:

https://medievjapan.weebly.com/fashion.html.

Feudal Japan. (n.d.). Everyday Life In Feudal Japan. [online] Available at:
https://thisisprobablynotwhatyougoggled.weebly.com/everyday-life-in-feudal-
japan.html#:~:text=Clothes%3A%20People%20in%20feudal%20Japan [Accessed 3 Jun. 2020].

prezi.com. (n.d.). Fashion and Clothing in Medieval Japan. [online] Available at:
https://prezi.com/rhxqu-f67ivn/fashion-and-clothing-in-medieval-japan/ [Accessed 3 Jun. 2020].

Japan under the Shoguns. (2019). Way of Life. [online] Available at:
https://shogunjapan1.weebly.com/way-of-life.html.
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