Urban Climber 2010-06 07

PHOTO
ANNUAL
FLATIRON
RENAISSANCE
CLIMBING LIVES ON
GOLDEN STATE
GRANITE
GREATNESS
THE MANY
FACES OF
CLIMBING
+
INTERNET MAKES CLIMBING POSSIBLE
20 PHOTOGRAPHIC ESSENTIALS
WIN A LADIES PETZL PACKAGE P. 74
AND MORE . . .
US $5.99 CAN $5.99
40 JULY 2010
Permit #490
Lebanon Junction, KY
PAID
U.S. Postage
PRINTED ON 100% RECYCLED PAPER
Presorted Standard A CARBON-NEUTRAL MAGAZINE
URBANCLIMBERMAG.COM
PHOTO: TIM KEMPLE
RENAN OZTURK, BRAZIL

*DYHD6WRQH+LJKOLQH5LRGH-DQHLUR
SEE THE VIDEO AT

WKHQRUWKIDFHFRP
myUCTV.com
Photo: Tim Kemple

First Burn:40
Jonathan Siegrist sticks the final crux
on the age-old testpiece Gigantor
(5.13), City of Rocks, Idaho.
Photo: Andy Mann
6 URBANCLIMBERMAG.COM UC#40
PHOTO ANNUAL 2010 URBANCLIMBERMAG.COM 7
First Burn:40
Kevin Jorgeson catches last light on
The Mandala (V12), Bishop, California.
Photo: Andy Mann
Contents:40
FEATURES
34 Visual
Colorful Colorado, out of the darkness in Tennessee,
and a starry night in Utah
46 Thanks California
Damon Corso takes us through the Golden State’s
bountiful and beautiful boulders.
54 Flatirons Renaissance
Andy Mann’s photo essay shows off the resurgence of
bolting and route development in the Flatirons above
Boulder, Colorado.
62 Faces of Climbing
Andrew Burr reminds us of the first thing we see and
the last thing we forget.
DEPARTMENTS
12 Entourage
Damon Corso and Arnold Braker
16 Starting Hold
Take pictures. You won’t regret it.
18 Word
Last issue radness, downgrade debate, and Facebook
friendliness
22 Hotness
New schwag to keep you the envy of all your homies
26 411
Earth Treks Roc Comp results, CORE review, Show Us
Your Woody
30 Drive
John Dickey and Caroline Treadway
68 Workshop
A peek at a pro photog’s packing list
70 Homage
Cover:
Dear Internet,
Jason Kehl on his first ascent of
You make climbing possible.
To Die For (V5), North Mountain,
74 Coin
Hueco Tanks, Texas
Petzl hooks it up for the ladies.
Photo: Andy Mann
90 Finish Hold
The climbing life inspires this wordsmith.
This Page:
Christian Bacasa clips in on Green
Horn (5.11a), Solar Collector, Red
River Gorge, Kentucky
Photo: Andrew Burr
Entourage:40
DAMON CORSO ARNOLD BRAKER

Like so many other adventure seekers, moving to California in Arnold Braker is a man with many layers. He can laugh at jokes
2003 marked a pivotal change in Damon Corso’s life. It was there that about Casimir effects or long division, but also at a picture of a fat person
he got into climbing at Stoney Point, making weekly trips with his uncle. falling on his face from failblog.org. To say he is smart is an understate-
Ever since, he’s been living the life in Santa Monica, where he snowboards, ment. The University of Oklahoma grad (physics and letters) is incredibly
surfs, skimboards, and, of course, climbs. Shooting “Thanks California!” intelligent and is currently using his brain to fix every last broken part
(p. 46) only reinforced his affinity for California granite, because in his in his ancient Saab and install walk-in bath tubs for old people. At age
words, “It’s everywhere, and the potential is endless.” His serious pursuit 28, Braker has witnessed much of the online revolution and even taken
of photography began pre-Cali, when he hiked the Appalachian Trail in part in it himself. As Limit, a penname/handle for the work published
2002 and documented his six-month journey. After the cross-country on his co-founded site pimpinandcrimpin.com, Braker has proven his
move from Connecticut and his start in climbing, Corso combined two salt in the LOLZ department, and his authority and grasp of Internet
passions, met a lot of professionals in Los Angeles and San Diego, and workings and humor (he also builds and maintains the function of the
the rest is history. Corso’s photography philosophy is “more pictures, website) is top notch. His “Homage to the Internet” (p. 70) and how it’s
fewer words,” which made him a perfect candidate for this year’s photo changed his life as a climber makes light of what the World Wide Web
annual. Living in a culturally diverse metropolis so close to the ocean has done to his adventuring and forays into the wilderness. Given his
allows Corso to survive off noodles, sushi, and mochi. When asked about love for all things digital, you can find him lurking the darkest corners
the best place in the world to shoot, Corso responded, “I still don’t know, of the Internet (8a.nu) or updating his Facebook with tales of his very
but California sure will give me a lifetime of excuses not to leave!” calculated adventuring on roadside sport crags.
The ELIA: Designed for you*
The first climbing helmet created specifically for women
Omega suspension system is

compatible with ponytails
Specifically sized for women
Completely adjustable for a
comfortable fit
petzl.com/ELIA for more info
OLFH
.D
*Assuming you don’t have a Y chromosome

Publisher: Mark Crowther
Editor in Chief: Andrew Tower
Art Director: Randall Levensaler
Associate Editor: Julie Ellison
Online Editor: Amanda Fox
Senior Contributing Photographers:
Andrew Burr, Andy Mann
Regional A&R: Dave Chancellor, Damon Corso,
Luke Cudney, Alex Messenger, Brian Solano
Over Web Production: Jesse Erlbaum, Noah Mormino,

Kyle Roseborrough
200,000 Advertising Sales: Kevin Riley

Shop & Classified Sales: Nolan Kombol
climbers Circulation: Chris Berry

Finance: Sharon Guerrero
started Words: Arnold Braker, Jonathan Siegrist,

Andrew Tower, Julie Ellison, Damon Corso,
Ethan Pringle, Brooks Walker, Sasha Tur-
adventures rentine
Photos: John Dickey, Andy Mann, Andrew
at Mountain Burr, Andy Chasteen, Brian Solano, Caroline

Treadway, Sasha Turrentine, Kyle George
Gear URBAN CLIMBER MAGAZINE is published eight times a year by Skram

Media LLC. Dec/Jan, Feb/Mar, Apr, May, Jun/Jul, Aug/Sep, Oct, Nov.
Printed in the USA for worldwide distribution. All information is correct
at time of going to press. The Publishers cannot accept liability for errors
in articles or advertisements, or unsolicited manuscripts, photographs
We helped them, or illustrations. The opinions and words of the authors do not neces-
sarily represent those of URBAN CLIMBER MAGAZINE’s ownership.
we can help you Copyright © Skram Media, LLC 2009. All rights reserved. Reproduction
in whole or part is strictly prohibited without prior permission. WARN-
ING: The activities described in URBAN CLIMBER MAGAZINE carry a
significant risk of personal injury or death. Do not participate in these
activities unless you are an expert, have sought or obtained qualified
professional instruction or guidance, are knowledgeable about the
risks involved, and are willing to assume personal responsibility for all
risks associated with these activities. SKRAM MEDIA LLC MAKES NO
WARRANTIES, EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, OF ANY KIND REGARDING THE
CONTENTS OF THIS MAGAZINE, AND EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMS ANY WAR-
RANTY REGARDING THE ACCURACY OR RELIABILITY OF INFORMATION
CONTAINED HEREIN. Skram Media LLC further disclaims any respon-
sibility for injuries or death incurred by any person engaging in these
activities. Use the information contained in this magazine at your own
risk, and do not depend on the information contained in the magazine
for personal safety or for determining whether to attempt any climb,
route or activity described herein. Subscription Services: Should you
wish to change your address or order a new subscriptions, you can do so
by writing to: Urban Climber Magazine, P.O Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL
32142-0235. Canadian undeliverable mail to: International Mail Express,
3740 Washington Drive, Eagan, MN 55122. POSTMASTER: Send change
of address to Urban Climber Magazine, P.O. Box 422042, Palm Coast, FL
32142-6976. Subscription rates are $24.97 for one year for postal delivery
in the United States.
Contributors: To get articles and pictures

published in URBAN CLIMBER MAGAZINE, email
contribute@urbanclimbermag.com.
Gyms and retailers: To carry URBAN CLIMBER MAGAZINE
in your shop, please contact Liz Warden on 1-800-381-1288
x6047 or email lwarden@rvmags.com.
Thanks and Thoughts:

Andrew: Bronco and Limit
mountaingear.com/climbing
Julie: Colin and Lizzie
Artistic Inspiration:
Andrew: Forgiveness Rock Record
800.829.2009 Julie: Beirut
Urban Climber
magazine is proudly
printed on 100%
recycled paper.
Photo: Eric Odentha

Unstoppable Marmot Momentum.
You can’t slow down when it warms up.
That’s why we’ve created the ultimate
lightweight, packable outdoor collection for
summer adventures. The Marmot Momentum
Collection is action-oriented clothing designed
for motion with fabrics that wick moisture,
dry quickly and offer terrific UPF protection -
perfect for climbing, riding, hiking, running or
any other activity that moves you. With Marmot
Momentum you’ll feel unstoppable out there.
No worries, your friends will catch up.
P E O P L E / P R O D U C T / P L A N E T™
Starting Hold:40
A PICTURE IS WORTH
A THOUSAND WORDS
BUT HERE ARE 673 WORDS TO GET YOU STARTED
started shooting pretty much the day I started climbing. That
I doesn’t mean I’m any sort of real photographer. I had found a new
activity/sport/lifestyle that I wanted to share with as many people
as possible — not to mention make memories
from my early days of gumbyism that shaped me matically changed how good our shots were. I’d spend half the day just
into the climber I am today (a slightly less danger- trying to get a rope up on some obscure Oklahoma route so I could snap
ous gumby). From my first outdoor trip to the ter- a few less-than-stellar pictures of my friends from what (we later found
rible problems and routes we set in my college’s out) was not really a unique angle in climbing photography. It didn’t
even more terrible climbing gym, we tried to matter. It never really did. We couldn’t
capture everything. The small climbing crew that get enough of the pictures, and freaked out about falling. Another brings back the day my
accepted me into their ranks slowly grew, envel- despite the fact that they were never friend fell above a shitty cam placement (which popped),
oping many of the young and energetic students sellable, all the time and energy we and I stuck my hand in between him and a large rock.
at the University of Oklahoma. Fridays we would spent trying to be professional media Then there’s the terrible haircut I had, my first 5.12a, the
meet at our friend’s larger-than-average single makers seemed worth it because day my friend fell 50 feet on Supercrack, the time a deer
dorm for coffee and stories. Every week we’d make our personal coverage represented a tried to destroy the hood of my car, climbing under over-
a video or some lame slideshow of pictures to pivotal time in our lives. passes on glued-on rocks, being hungover on New Year’s
show off what we’d been up to (which usually We were awkward 19-year-olds Day and climbing anyway, driving two hours when I was
involved flailing on 5.11s, sending 5.8s, and making who thought we were adults (now I psyched to climb and making my friends miserable in the
ridiculous music videos). Pathetic as our climbing know better) given the freedom to freezing weather, etc. ad nauseam.
achievements were, it was cutting edge for our figure life out on our own (mostly), It’s likely, though, that you have a similar collection
group, and we all shared the same enthusiasm for and because we were so adamant of photos on your computer. The hardly noticeable folder
the small steps we made toward our long-term about documenting our ridiculous buried deep in your hard drive is simply a token from
goals (which were never really defined; I think I exploits, I can look back fondly at more insipient (some may say simpler) days. When climb-
settled on something near 5.16b). This excitement the crazy times we had as I slowly ing was climbing, and it was the most important thing
translated into our unabashed effort to take good became a “climber.” The pictures any of you could possibly do with your time. Since then,
photographs. above, evidence of my comical first I’ve taken fewer photos. I’ve grown up some and wanted
We quickly learned not to shoot from the few years of climbing, will likely have to remember less, I suppose. Looking back at these last
ground looking up. If we could get above a boul- no impact on you, but when I look few years, I regret this and wish I had something tactile
der problem or hang from a rope to shoot, it dra- at them, I see my first 5.10 trad lead (more or less) to show for them. My hope is that as you
that left me stuck in a perfect hand flip through our 2010 Photo Annual, you’ll find the inspira-
crack on a slab for 45 minutes while I tion to record your own journey through the vertical life
and always remember to toss that camera in your pack.
— Andrew Tower
Word:40
Say word! Email: word@urbanclimbermag.com; Twitter: @UCMAG; Facebook: facebook.com/ucmag;
Snailz mailz: Urban Climber Mag, 2291 Arapahoe Ave., Boulder, CO 80302
SURE SHOT
For his Valley image with a vin-
tage feel, Timothy Long of Yorba
Linda, California, scores the
sweet new Vapor V, a Velcro shoe
from SCARPA (scarpa.com). The
severely downturned angle and
sensitivity make this a perfect
shoe to crush Camp 4 boulders.
Post your images to the UCMag

PhotoPost (urbanclimbermag.
com/photopost) for a chance to
get into UCMag and win some
free gear. Now who doesn’t
want that?
ROAD TRIP RADNESS road rules in the current issue of UCMag. It was a perfect combo of
GREAT ISSUE! The road-tripping article [#38] was amazing. I’ve always useful and witty. Keep up the good work, and climb on my friends.
wanted someone (any magazine or book) to step up and write some- — Patrick Gensel
thing about it. I’ve wanted to go on a climbing road trip for some time,
and I think this article gave me the tips and tools to do so successfully.
What great timing for this article with summer quickly approaching! I’m
DOWNGRADE DEBATE
Dear Urban Climber and the whole climbing community:
sure many people will be out there road tripping because of this article!
Lately, well, in the last few years, there has been a lot of shit talk
Thanks again for the article, and thanks for continually bringing us the
going around about proposing downgrades for various problems of
best tips and coverage of climbing!
high grade (i.e. Jade). The reasons range from there being a few good
One love.
holds to rest on, to people who aren’t the household big-name climb-
— Josh Brienen
ers sending them. My opinion on that subject is this: Have these
people sent the problems in question? If they haven’t, and they are
COLLECTOR’S EDITION really THAT certain of it being downgraded, how about they send the
Dear Urban Climber, problem(s)? I mean, if they can propose downgrades, then they most
I LOVE the new issue for this month! It had a bunch of great articles, certainly should be able to send the problem, right? Just my two
some cool pictures, and awesome advice/stories. I love Urban Climber cents on an obviously heated topic that is asinine. Climb for the sake
and am basically forming a collection of issues at home... I have a of climbing; use the grades as a gauge and a goal.
huge stack. Thanks so much for the work you put in to make this Cordially yours,
magazine great! — Ryan Smithman
— Abby Garrett
First off, thank you for being one of our more consistent Facebook
responders and for taking the time to write a comment starting with
PAT ON THE BACK “Dear.” It really means a lot to us. We totally agree about the downgrading,
Hey guys,
but if they don’t argue, what would we talk about on the Internet?
Just wanted to drop a line and say that I loved the story about the 50
*VUYHK(URLY
;VTT`*HSK^LSS
*LKHY>YPNO[
:HT,SPHZ
)L[O9VKKLU
4PSS*YLLR*HU`VU<;
7OV[V!)VVUL:WLLK
^^ÎS\L^H[LYYVWLZJVT
Correction
In #38, we mistakenly forgot to include our Senior Contributing Photographer Andy
Mann in a photo credit in the Visual, p. 38-41. It was our mistake, and we wanted to
make sure everyone knew who took those photos.
FACEBOOKED
When our Facebook “likers” (fans for all intents and purposes) were asked what disci-
pline of climbing they would do if only given one day a week to get out, their answers
were varied and topical. Here are the results.
Sport 6%
Other 12%
Trad 23%
Bouldering 59%
One fellow felt like this was a trick question. He said, “The real answer is ‘I would
make more time for climbing.’” An astute observation from our sharp-as-a-tack
reader.
We can only conclude the following from these responses.

1. We have more trad readers than we thought…
2. All the sport climbers were out actually climbing, and that’s why they didn’t
respond.
3. All the boulderers are nursing tendon injuries, which is why they’re inside on
Facebook.
4. We feel sorry for the guy who answered “whatever is dry.”
NEW ENGLAND ROPES
MAXIM® DYNAMIC ROPES
Leading athlete.
Leading rope.
Together in Motion.
Ethan Pringle. Iron Monkey 5.14 Photo by Andrew Mann
F]o=f_dYf\Jgh]k0,09ajhgjlJgY\>YddJan]j$E9(*/*(%,/+-0((%+++%../1ooo&f]jgh]k&[ge
Hotness:40
BURNING UP BURL FOR YOUR BUCK

Comfort and performance were priority IT’S ALL IN A NAME If you’re looking for a performance-designed
number one when the SALEWA FIRETAIL Ok, not really. Because if it were all in a
workhorse rope that pulls double and even
GTX approach shoe was being designed. name, you wouldn’t see the true amazing-
triple duty, the METOLIUS CLIMBING MON-
The shoe combines the lightweight comfort ness of the GREGORY ALPINISTO backpack.
STER ROPE 9.8 is there to serve your every
of trail running shoes with the technical This pack isn’t just for alpine ascents, but
need. From sport and trad, to working for the
performance of sticky, climbing-minded ap- it’s also perfect for a long day at the crag
redpoint, to the need for a plush, lightweight
proach shoes. The shoes feature a Vibram® or a painstakingly long approach to the
cord for onsights, the Monster makes for an
sole and EVA midsole, with a GORE-TEX® crag. The two size options — 35 liters or 50
ideal line. It’s burly enough to take some
upper, letting your feet stay dry in sub- liters — both have a contoured top designed
punishment, but light and compact enough
prime conditions but still breathe that for helmet clearance, and their level of com-
for hard sends.
fresh air. They’re ideal for long, demanding fort is definitely maxed-out with a cushy
$175, 60m, non-dry
approaches and will keep the blisters at bay. hip belt and shoulder straps. For ultralight
metoliusclimbing.com
They come in two colors: apple and black. freaks, you can remove the hip padding, the
$139 HDPE framesheet, and the aluminum stay.
salewa.us $200
gregorypacks.com
BOBBLE HEAD SECOND NATURE

Tired of wasting cash on bottle after bottle of
water for short hiking trips or quick boulder-
RICK ROSS The red-hot SCARPA INSTINCT S climbing
slippers are a revolutionary pair of booties.
Bring a little of that Fontainebleau magic
ing sessions? The BOBBLE water bottle is the The all-Lorica design means that it stretches
and sending power to your everyday life
sleek, modern solution to clean up your tap without stretching out, so it makes room
with the one and only PUSHER BOSS, a sloper
water and make you look progressively hip for your feet when they’re in the shoes
designed in the classic Font style. Although
at the same time. The activated carbon water but returns to its original shape as soon as
this hold has been around a while, it’s been
filter sits inside the screw-on cap, giving you you’re done. The downturned toe is perfect
redesigned with a hollow back, making
a fresh taste of water every sip, which will for grabbing pebbles on overhangs, and the
it a svelte 10 lbs. It’s made of a specialized
keep your wallet fat and your body pleasantly sticky toe rubber gives you an extra edge
polyurethane that is comprised of 56 percent
hydrated. They come in six colors, so you can for scumming on particularly toe-drag-
recycled and sustainable materials, so it’s
customize the way you’re saving money (and ging moves. In the end, you get a shoe so
environmentally friendly. The Boss will take
the planet). perfectly dialed for sending, it becomes,
charge of a whole climbing wall because
$9.95 well, instinct.
that’s its job.
waterbobble.com $139
$99
scarpa.com
pushergear.com
Hotness:40
LOOK, MOM! NO DOLOMIGHTY

ECO FASHION Chances are if you’re reading this maga-
HANDS! Fashionistas always say that picking the

right clothes isn’t as much about look-
zine, you probably need something — any-
thing— to organize your life and keep it
Wearing a helmet just got cooler with the
ing good as it is about feeling good. With clutter-free. That something is the DOLO-
DRIFT INNOVATION X170 ACTION CAMERA.
OCEAN MINDED apparel, you are guaran- MITE CLIMBING BAG, a messenger-style
This helmet-goggle-head-handlebar cam-
teed a fresh look and a good feeling that bag that lays flat to fit inside a crashpad.
era can capture all your (mis)adventures
you’ve done right with the world. Ocean Designed to hold anything you might need
through high-quality video and 5-mega-
Minded uses everything from recycled car while climbing inside or out (think shoes,
pixel still images. The best part is a wireless
tires in their shoes to recycled wool in their wallet, water bottles, more shoes, etc.),
remote that you can put wherever is easiest
shirts to embody their motto “Live. Protect. these bags are pretty nifty. Handmade in
to reach while the actual camera stays in
Respect.” To spread the message, they part- Atlanta, Georgia, they’re customizable with
place. A 1.5-inch screen lets you admire your
ner with surfers, paddlers, musicians, and your choice of colors and fabric (durable
work on camera, or an included set of cords
now deep water solo climbers. Cordura or recycled vinyl from banners that
sends it right to your computer or TV.
$28 used to hang in Hotlanta).
$199
oceanminded.com $60
driftinnovation.com
dolomiteclimbingbags.com
ASTRAL PROJECTION HOOP DREAMS

Kick, step, send, and get buck wild in precise,
classy style with the retro-classic KAYLAND
iBAG Many climbers don’t train because it’s boring
We’ve all seen those kids at the gym with
COMET approach shoe, a water-repellent, and monotonous. The same old sit-ups, push-
their iPods in their ears, too cool to listen to
suede-leather kick that’s as bizzled on the ups, and pull-ups hold little to no appeal for
whatever terrible music the gym employees
approach as at the bar. Full-foot asymmetri- most climbers. Even slacklining gets old after
happen to have on. We’ve also all felt smug
cal lacing means you can custom-ratchet a while. Enter the BETTY HOOP, a hula hoop
when those iPods tumble to the ground af-
fit, while the honeycombed 3D mesh liner designed to break down into segments and
ter a big move. Now we can all climb to our
keeps things light and breathable. Groove fit into a nylon tote bag about the same size
own beat with the METOLIUS CLIMBING
on the rubber toe bumper, supportive multi- as a yoga mat. Use this hoop for core training,
TECHNO ID CHALK BAG, a sweet little bag
layer EVA midsole, grippy Hexagon outsole, coordination improvement, balance, and flu-
that includes a specialty iPod pocket and a
and reliable self-centering tongue. Colors: idity. Upper body strength means nothing if
clear holder for your gym ID. Rock on.
boys rock the brown; girls rock the lime. you don’t have the core and balance to back
$24.95
$99.95 it up, so get hooping.
metoliusclimbing.com
kayland.com $46
bettyhoops.com
valerien-werbung.com
Moritz &
Phillip Hans
climbing Red Chili CORONA VCR
www.redchili.de
by Stefan Glowacz
CO RON A V CR
411:40
LOWDOWN
EARTH TREKS ROC COMP
WORDS AND PHOTOS BY SASHA TURRENTINE
RESULTS
Men
1. Chris Sharma 25 pts.
2. Paul Robinson 23 pts.
3. Daniel Woods 19 pts.
fter more than a decade of ruling the
A American bouldering comps, Chris Sharma

proved that he still has it. As he
hiked the men’s third and final problem
Women
1. Alex Puccio
2. Alex Johnson
25 pts.
23 pts.
at the Earth Treks Roc Comp in Timonium, cast our last event at the OR Summer Tradeshow in 2009,” 3. Lisa Rands 17 pts.
Maryland, the crowd roared in approval. said Pete Ward of NE2C. “It wasn’t close to the production
Paul Robinson came in a strong second, with value that we managed this time. We really couldn’t have
Daniel Woods close behind. hoped for much more.” The broadcast was also
On the women’s side, the Alexes (Puccio in HD, so viewers were able to plug into their
and Johnson) were once again neck and neck TVs and watch from there. It was projected from can competitive climbing. The Earth Treks Roc
for first place. While one usually sends the a giant JumboTron in the venue, so those who Comp, successful in 2003, had gone under, as
final problem, neither managed to top out, were in unlucky spots were still able to catch all had the once-popular Professional Climbers
which left the winner to be decided by their the action. Association (PCA). “The challenge for climbing
high points on problem 2, leaving Puccio with “Anyone with money could build a climb- in the last few years is to communicate what
the title. Lisa Rands made an impressive high ing wall on top of a hotel or an open venue for is great about our sport without turning it into
point on problem 2, but her scores on other a day and draw big crowds,” said Buck Branson, a bastardization of itself — hoping that ‘non-
problems secured her a third place finish. Minister of Culture of Evolv. “These guys [Earth climbers’ will get it,” said Pete Ward of NE2C.
The event opened April 23 at Earth Treks Treks] proved they can do it in an established UBC’s future looks promising. “The Roc
Columbia, where competitors shared walls facility and have it be top notch.” Comp definitely gave our industry the kick in
with the pros during the combined citizens Competitors and fans alike were enthu- the pants it needed. We couldn’t have asked for
comp and qualifiers red-point round. Climb- siastic about the event. “The problems were a better turnout,” said Christina Rensch, Earth
ers waited up to 30 minutes for a problem, some of the hardest competition problems I’ve Treks’ director of marketing. The Roc Comp is
though most didn’t seem to mind since they encountered,” said Alex Johnson, who was vying back — and with it the confidence in competi-
were able to watch their favorite pros cruise for her piece of the $11,000 prize purse. “I had tion climbing’s ability to put on a good show.
the day’s hardest problems. fun — the atmosphere was relaxed, and I was
The Roc Comp also kicked off the Uni- psyched on the finals format.”
fied Bouldering Championship (UBC) series Perhaps the best part of the comp was the assurance
of 2010, hosted by NE2C Productions. NE2C it gave organizers and climbers about the future of Ameri-
also aired the comp live online. “We broad-
411:40
SPANISH INQUISITION
MAJA VIDMAR’S STELLAR SENDFEST
BY UCMAG // PHOTO BY ANZE STREMFELJ
ompetition climbers are a special
C breed. While the rock and natural lines

drive most people, comp climbers spend
most of their time on plastic, training and com-
peting. One of the world’s best comp climbers de-
cided to break the mold and spend her off-season
SPRING RAMPAGE
A few ticks on Maja Vidmar’s
crushing on real rock. When faced with the first
Tour de Espana
World Cup competition in July, Maja Vidmar, 24,
Onsight
from Slovenia, decided to climb as many rocks as
Humildes Pa Casa (5.14a),
she could to stay in shape and stay motivated for
Oliana
comp season. In late March, Maja packed her bags
Trio Ternura (5.13b), St. Linya
and set out for sunny Spain. Between March 25
La Musca Cllonera (5.13b),
and April 16, Vidmar managed more than a dozen
Montsant
ticks that individually would make anyone a rock
Los Rancios de la Aldea (5.13c),
star. She toured the best places in Spain: Oliana,
Masriudoms
Siurana, St. Linya, Montsant, Masriudoms, and
Domador de Amorti (5.13b),
Tres Ponts. Her proudest send was an onsight of
Masriudoms
Humildes Pa Casa (5.14a), Oliana, on April 6, in the
Els Incoformistes (5.13c), Tres
middle of taking Spain by storm. The route fol-
Ponts
lows one long stalactite for a length of 50 meters,
El Batec (5.13c), Tres Ponts
definitely a test of mental strength and physical
Mishi (5.13b), Oliana
endurance. “I entered the route fully motivated,
and two other unnamed 5.13bs
but it wasn’t a quick or easy start. There were mo-
in Oliana and Masriudoms
ments when I saw myself already in the air,” Maja
Redpoint
said of her battle with Humildes. The route that
Fish Eye (5.14b), Oliana
translates to “humbles stay home” was definitely
2x30 (5.14b), Siurana
a test to measure up to the world’s best climbers,
Kalea Borroka (5.14a), Siurana
and in addition to having already won seven
World Cup competitions, Maja has definitely
proven herself in the global climbing scene, on
plastic or rock.

411:40
REVIEWS!
CORE
CHUCK FRYBERGER // BLU-RAY $39.95, DVD $29.95,
HD DOWNLOAD $19.95 // CHUCKFRYBERGER.COM
n the last few years, the produc-
I tion value of climbing films has

changed a lot. Chuck Fryberger’s lat-
est offering, CORE, takes it a step further
kataival’s V15 in Rocklands, South Africa, Matt
Wilder’s 5.14 gear route on the Devil’s Thumb
in the Flatirons in Boulder, Colorado, and a
by being the first climbing flick shot in HD Fred Nicole first ascent that’s taken him years
and Blu-Ray. The high quality of the pictures to finally tick. What came out the other side is
taken, however, is not the only thing that a movie that motivates you to get out there
makes this a movie you should have on your and climb but keeps you entertained enough
shelf. to watch it until the end before you race out
Fryberger gives special attention to the the door in search of your own adventure.
athletes featured in the film. The develop- For a video that combines well-crafted,
ment of the climbers’ personalities is worked unique shots of intense and inspiring climb-
in evenly with the footage of them actually ing and a storyline that brings humanity to
climbing, so you get to know their lifestyle the featured rock crushers, CORE should defi-
and individuality. Fryberger tracked some nitely be a part of your collection.
great climbing with spotlights on Nalle Huk- — Andrew Tower
MODEST AND COCKY

AT THE SAME TIME.
ZEN ALPINE CROSS SHOE
INCREDIBLE COMFORT, SUPPORT AND DURABILITY

LIKE NO OTHER, THE ZEN IS THE IDEAL HIKING AND
APPROACH SHOE WITHOUT THE ATTITUDE.
411:40
SHOW US YOUR
WOODY WINNER!
THE GARAGE
aving a cool house can sometimes be a burden
H because all your friends want to come over all the

time. Dan Yates apparently welcomes the burden,
as he, along with neighbor and fellow woody
owner Patrick Andrews and friend Justin Laffey,
As the Show Us Your Woody winner this month, Dan Yates and
built a woody in Yates’ garage near Gettysburg,
The Garage crew will get to add SLOTS from the Detroit Rock
Pennsylvania, now cleverly named The Garage.
Climbing Company to their already impressive woody. The slick
They filled the 11’ by 22’ space with three different-
and shiny surfaces surrounding these gritty pockets will test even
ly angled walls, from slightly overhanging to 60
the best puller’s precision. For a chance to win some sweet holds
degrees, with hundreds of holds to keep it inter-
like this, e-mail pictures and the
esting. As Laffey says, “Wednesdays have become
story behind your woody to word@
the new Friday… in the ‘burbs of Gettysburg,” as
urbanclimbermag.com.
a weekly session “so positive it would have ended
the Civil War” keeps all the locals coming back.
Everyone shares spotting duties, laughter, beer,
and good times at The Garage.
GIVE YOUR TOES

AN EGO.
INSTINCT CLIMBING SHOE
PUSH, PULL AND STAND ON HOLDS LIKE

NEVER BEFORE... USE YOUR INSTINCTS FOR
DYNAMIC, CREATIVE CLIMBING.
Drive:40.1
JOHN DICKEY
PROFESSIONAL FOR THE PEOPLE
BY UCMAG
Camera: Canon
Years shooting: 13
Years climbing: 22
Most important gear: A good attitude
and a neutral density 2-stop gradient
filter
Hometown: San Antonio, Texas
Lisa Rands climbing This

Side of Paradise (V10) in
the Buttermilks, California
Photo: John Dickey
or a kid that grew up all over the globe, John Dickey,
F 35, sure is down to earth. Regarding how to take a good

photograph, he says, “no top ropes including gear
clipped above your head on lead,” shade is not an excuse
not to shoot, and “no V3 climbers posing on V9s just because
they’re busty or want their photo in the mags.” We couldn’t agree
more. Dickey is a no-holds-barred type of photographer; he knows
what he likes, and he always gets the job done. He left the Mis-
sion of San Francisco in January 2008 and now lives in Eldorado
Springs, Colorado, the town a stone’s throw from world-famous
climbing destination Eldorado Canyon.
QA How did you get started shooting? When I was very young, my
What’s your favorite kind of rock to shoot? It’s not necessar-
ily igneous or metamorphic, but rather the kind of rock that is
the most exciting. It’s shooting first ascents, first female ascents,
onsights, and/or new developing zones. I’m always looking for
dad put a 35mm camera in my hand and showed me how to use
something new to climb and shoot, so my favorite is whatever
it. The images I took became very entertaining to my family, so
happens to be in the newest, most unexplored zones. Don’t get
they always referred to the photographs and camera as mine.
me wrong. There are some classics that I consider sacred ground
Coincidentally, my parents also had an 8mm movie camera on
like Yosemite and Font, but I’m always excited when I get that
which I essentially took the same path, and lo and behold, I am a
call about something new.
photographer that now makes shorts.
Who, photographically, do you look up to? I tend to find ele-

When did you decide to make photography your professional
ments in other shooters’ work that I really admire more than
goal? Right around the time of my graduation in 1999, I was
just the shooter. Boone [Speed] for his pull-back-and-lose-you-
shooting so much I couldn’t afford to keep doing it without
in-the-landscape material, Keith [Ladzinski] for his composi-
making a little bit of coin off of it, so I started putting myself out
tions, [Andrew] McGarry for his true grit, and the list goes on…
there as a “professional photographer,” and it completely took
over my life.
What kind of shots inspire you? The kind I haven’t seen before.
The kind that take more than a camera and a finger; images that
were well thought out and don’t come from the simple fact of
being there with a camera and having a pulse. Creativity and a
true skill for being in the right place at the right time. We all get
lucky when it comes to right time and place but to think things
out beforehand and plan to be there is a completely different deal
and tough to find.
What’s the scariest situation you’ve been in while shooting?

Just recently I was shooting in Canada, and up around pitch four of
a rather serious mixed route, I realized that if I jugged the rope any
further, I was going to lever my entire body weight against a hang-
ing ice dagger bigger than my car and surely kill the belayer below.
Things got kind of tense.
What’s so great about shooting climbing anyway? It’s exciting,

fun, and people get psyched to go get after it. In my book, that’s
pretty damn important. The world can be a pretty eff’ed up place
sometimes, and if I can get someone psyched and put a smile on
his face or provoke some thought, then my “job” is done.
For more from Dickey, visit his website at dickeyphoto.com.
John Dickey at home in Eldo

Photo: John DIckey
Drive:40.2
CAROLINE TREADWAY
CLIMBING JOURNALIST
BY UCMAG
Camera: Nikon
Years Shooting: 5
Years Climbing: 10
Proudest shots: A 15-photo spread
of a “day in the life” of Connecticut
Congressman Jim Himes in the
Norwalk Hour
Proudest sends: Grad school
Colette McInerney on Joe Blow

(5.13c) above Hurricane, Utah
Photo: Caroline Treadway
ournalist. Climber. Photographer.
J Writer. Barefoot runner. My Little Pony enthusi-

ast. Those are just a few descriptors for Caroline
Treadway, who spent her first year as a “photographer”
on the couch with a knee injury from bouldering,
which she describes as “a good thing because it took a
while to figure out all those buttons.” Originally from
Washington, D.C., Treadway enjoyed the international
and diverse scene, even going to school with ambassa-
dors’ kids and an Arabian prince who had bodyguards.
Thinking that was normal, Treadway learned early on
to go outside her comfort zone in order to achieve
her goals. Now Treadway finds herself photographing
everything from professional climbers to the President
to endangered species, all while exuding journalistic
professionalism without losing her individual spark.
QA
What’s the best thing about photographing climb-
ing? Worst? The best thing is chilling outside with
friends in rad places. I love to shoot people trying their
very hardest on a climb that means a lot to them. The
worst thing is sometimes, I wanna climb, too. Jugging
lines with a bunch of camera gear isn’t quite the same.
What do you do outside of climbing and photogra-

phy? I write, shoot, and climb — that sums it up! I’m
super into fashion photography, endangered species,
and photojournalism. Sometimes I’m tempted to
become a war photographer in the Middle East, but
my parents would kill me. Recently, I’ve been running
barefoot and learning to speak Navajo while holed up
in a mountain cabin near the Four Corners, working on
a project about a Navajo botanist on their reservation.
Treadway showing off
her steez
Photo: Caroline Treadway
How does climbing photography compare to your journal-

ism training? Photography’s all about the moment. You can try
to re-create a moment, and some photographers pull it off, but
it’s never quite the same. I like to apply photojournalism ethics
to climbing photography — no posing, minimal Photoshop.
Great photographers nail everything — the moment, light, com-
position, expression, etc. That’s the goal for me, but I’m flexible.
It’s all a learning process.
Advice to aspiring climbing photographers? Mix a little

Henri Cartier-Bresson with some Dave Black and you’re good.
Pester every photographer you know for advice. Experiment.
Have fun. The last two are the most important. As a kid I always
wanted to be a writer and a photographer. I can’t imagine do-
ing anything else.
For more from Treadway, visit her blog at carolinetreadway.

wordpress.com.
D<D9<IÜF=ÜM8L;<Ü>IFLG
<;<CI@;ÜEFIK?Ü8D<I@:8
~ÜK?Ü8M<ÜE<Üµ ñJ<8KKC<ÜN8Ü ~ ñG?FE<Ü ñ=8OÜ
NNN<;<CI@;E8:FDñ@E=F´<;<CI@;E8:FD
Visual:40
Ethan Pringle on the second
ascent of Orangutan Overhang
(5.14a), Independence Pass,
Colorado
Photo: Brian Solano

Visual:40
Jonathan Siegrist on Heretic

(5.13), City of Rocks, Idaho
Photo: Andy Mann
Chris Sierzant redpointing
Apes on Acid (5.14a), at
Castle Rock, Tennessee
Photo: Brian Solano
Visual:40
Heath Lillie on Streetcar

Named Desire (V7),
Joshua Tree, California
Photo: Andrew Burr
Visual:40
Carrie Cooper on Frantic (V8),

Grotview Cave, Waitomo Region,
North Island, New Zealand
Photo: Kyle George
Emily Harrington makes the
first ascent of Eating Stars (V4)
in the Wichita Mountains of
Oklahoma.
Photo: Andy Chasteen
Visual:40
Laurel Wright on Circus Trick (V4),
The Chaos A.D. Boulder, Big Bend,
Moab, Utah
Photo: Andrew Burr
Visual:40
Luke Parady beach bouldering

somewhere in Humboldt County,
California
Photo: Brian Solano
climbing.
NOT BECAUSE IT’S
EASY
BUT BECAUSE IT’S
HARD
ORBIT A complete line of carabiners (straight, bent, wires, keylocks,

lockers) and quickdraws (Nylon and Dyneema) for climbers who demand the
highest performance. Orbits are perfectly compact, lightweight and feature
optimal clipping action at a fraction of the price of other biners.
camp-usa.com
Big Greenie (V3), Black Mountain:
“Black Mountain will always hold a special place in

my heart — for teaching me that I too, despite my
frustratingly short stature, can climb well on reachy,
seemingly featureless granite. I feel like my years of
making the trek to Black certainly made me better as
a climber. The rock quality there can vary, mostly due
to lack of traffic and immensity of rock. And the rock
can be absurdly sharp, but what’s gain without a little
pain? The quality of the lines at Black Mountain can be
summed up in one word — inspiring. Black makes for
big, bold boulders with little holds that just beckon to
be climbed (Bang On, Big Greenie, and Velvet Revolv-
er to name a few). Black Mountain is also notoriously
sandbagged on some of the older climbs. Big Greenie
[pictured] was one such boulder that taught me how
to climb. For years I was terrible on balancy footwork,
and this particular climb really teaches you not only to
use your feet, but to use your head as well.”
— Garrett Gregor
[THANKS]
+ CALIFORNIA +
WEST COAST BLOCS PROVIDE ENDLESS OPPORTUNITY
INTRO BY ETHAN PRINGLE //

PHOTOS BY DAMON CORSO
HAT IS IT ABOUT THE GRANITE IN CALIFORNIA that most weekends in April. There’s a reason they, a dedicated group of
W brings forth the unwashed masses from all four corners of
the globe? It was never really a big secret that we have the best
locals, make the trek from the Bay area to the Valley every weekend
when the weather is good for just a few hours of bouldering. One
granite in the world, but now everyone and their sister wants a word: Quality.
piece (or at least a picture of themselves on Iron Man Traverse). I
think it’s because this is California, Dag- VER SINCE MY FIRST TRIP to the Buttermilks back in 2002, my
nammit! Even our boulders have a smug
sense of superiority (but warranted). No
E relationship with Cali granite has been somewhat turbulent. A
fractured Calcareous and plenty of lost skin has extinguished our
drop-offs (Magic Woods). No tick-tacky, flame more than once, but every time I get talked into going back
butt-draggy, crimp-ladders (RMNP). You to J-Tree, Yosemite, or Bishop for a long weekend, the flame sparks
can keep your roadside, dynamite-blasted back to life upon first sight of the giant boulders surrounding
pegboards (sorry LCC, please forgive me) and Intersection Rock, the Big Columbia Boulder, or the Peabodys.
your vague, dull-gray, forgettable little pebble No matter what, I know I’m going to have a hell of a
wrestles (sorry Northeast, I don’t really mean it!). weekend, and I’m going to leave with thin and
Give me tall. Give me proud. Give me obvious lines tender skin and a longer list of projects than
on freestanding boulders that call out to every passerby, when I arrived. On the following pages
“Climb me! I know you want to! Just go round up a few more lay just a small sample of the hidden
pads first so you don’t break your ankles.” (and not-so-well-hidden) gems in the
There’s a reason so many international boulderers flock to over-abundance of granite boulders that
California to test themselves on the classics. Originally planning on lay scattered across this rugglandscape.
visiting Hueco and the South, they instead get trapped in the vortex From the turtle-shell-patina faces and splitter cracks
of the Sierras. There’s a reason the Buttermilks remain the premier up intimidatingly large bulges (that Chris Lindner probably soloed at
proving ground for many pros, even though all the cool kids live in age six), to the house-sized, egg-shaped mega-blocs of the high desert,
Boulder. There’s a reason three dozen pad people can be found at and the forested, green, perfectly textured relics of Yosemite and Tahoe,
the Peabodys most weekends in March or in the boulders at Camp 4 we’ve got it all. So buddy, what are you doing this weekend?

Haroun and the Sea of Stories (V11), Bishop:
Thomas Schmid from Austria zeros in on the send.

“The rock quality on Haroun is top notch. The beauti-
ful, gold-streaked wall has huecos at the bottom that
lead to patina flakes higher up with zero choss. Also
the fact that it’s not hideously sharp and painful adds
to the classiness of this five-star boulder. Oh, and
don’t forget the little bit of spice factor during the
whole climb!”
— Ethan Pringle
Sunshine Daydream (V5), Tramway:
“Sunshine Daydream is possibly the

most unique and picturesque problem
at Tramway. With horizontal knee-bars,
heel/toe and hand-jam options, Sunshine
Daydream’s movement is as distinct as its
golden lichen and blocky features. In the
spring, brilliant bluebird days are coupled
with feet of snow, creating cold, sticky rock
and invigorating falls — fantastic!”
— Bridget Enderele
Root Canal (V7), Yosemite:
“Root Canal is located in the coolest section of the Valley: Curry

Village, also known as Little Siberia. These rocks never see the sun
and are covered by snow half the year. I don’t know if it’s the lack of
sun or constant chill that make these boulders unique to the rest of
the Valley, but when climbing here, friction slopers feel like snake’s
skin, and crimps bite into tips like tiny teeth. The Curry Circuit,
unlike many other Valley spots, does not feel especially water- or gla-
cier-polished, making the problems extremely tempting during early
mornings in the peak of summer. Take August, when virtually all of
Camp 4’s boulders are smarmy and deserted, Curry’s are still crisp
and packed with friction.”
— Chris Van Leuven
Nicole Overhang (V7), Joshua Tree:
“Nicole Overhang, hidden way in the back of the Plan-

et X sector, is a solid chunk of clean and steep radness
put up by none other than Fred Nicole on one of his
many visits to Joshua Tree. An added bonus is the
potential for an even harder sit start yet to be fired.”
— Chris Lindner
Ginger Snaps (V8), L.A. County:
“I’ve climbed in quite a few places but

[redacted] is certainly on top of the list. In
fact, [redacted] is tied for first in my opin-
ion with Font. If it weren’t for the secrecy
of the area, and if it were only a little bit
bigger, it would be number one for sure,
but due to these factors, it settles for a tie
with Font. The area is near perfect! It’s re-
ally aesthetically pleasing and set atop a
beautiful stream inside a quaint little for-
est. As if looks weren’t enough, it also hosts
some of the most comfortable and unique
water-polished granite climbs and holds
I’ve climbed on. I’d love to say exactly
where [redacted] is and share this amazing
area with everyone, but alas, it’s on private
land — calling all Access Fund members…”
— Garrett Gregor
Iron Resolution (V13), Joshua Tree:
“Iron Resolution is one of my favorite gran-

ite problems ever! The uniqueness of the
problem is unmatched, especially consider-
ing the history of its creation. To think that
its surfaces are still so fresh to the desert
air, only five exposed years, compared to
most walls that are hundreds of thousands
of years old. Besides that, the perfectly flat
angles of the wall make it look it was cut by
a laser. The moves are really fun, and noth-
ing beats a jump-start. Its location next to
such classic boulders (Barker Dam) and the
way the first light catches it at certain times
of the year make it perfect. That’s the stuff
climbing dreams are made of!”
— Ethan Pringle
Ethan Pringle puts down the Five Year Plan (5.13c) in
a couple afternoons. Talk about progression: This ul-
tra-steep splitter crack was an old aid route originally
called Space Time Inversion done by the legendary
Briggs brothers in the early 70s until Dale Goddard
freed the line in 1985. However, when trad master
Matt Wilder went to attempt the route in 2008, he
found a carefully placed wooden chockstone in the
crux – being used to help “aid” the free ascent. He cut
it out and sent au naturale shortly thereafter.
flat
irons RENAISSANCE:
BOULDER’S ICONIC HILLS REBORN

WORDS BY JONATHAN SIEGRIST // PHOTOS BY ANDY MANN
In the backyard of Boulder, Colorado, another chance. Now under a strict review process, a limited number
nestled between Boulder Canyon granite and the sweeping walls of of cliffs have finally been reopened to the drill. The long period of
Eldorado Canyon, lies a plethora of Front Range sport-climbing gems inactivity sent most Front Range climbers elsewhere to nearby crags
scattered throughout the jutting Flatirons. During the mid-to-late like Clear Creek Canyon, Rifle, and Shelf Road, leaving Flatirons crags
1980s, this sandstone playground saw a staggering amount of route eerily deserted. However, the recent renaissance in new routing has
development, led by an ambitious crew of pioneers such as Colin Lantz, brought life back to this unique area and opened the eyes of many to
Dan Michael, Fred Knapp, Paul Piana, Dale Goddard, and Richard and the virtually endless potential of the Flatirons. If all cliffs were open to
Joyce Rossiter. In just a few short years, this group and many others bolting, the Flatirons would undoubtedly be among the largest sport
tirelessly explored the titanic sport-climbing potential of this beautiful areas in America.
area and established a number of groundbreaking testpiece routes, as I’ve spent countless autumn days hiking between seemingly
well as hundreds of incredible moderates. endless formations, in search of forgotten testpiece classics buried high
Climbers were not the only ones enjoying the Flatirons, in the hillsides. Like ancient ruins, these stunning lines may need the
however, and after building tension between hikers and Bosch-toting touch of a brush, but their quality and difficulty give powerful insight
honemasters, bolting came to a screeching halt in 1990. The classic into the vision and capabilities of the past generation. Climbing in
trail-side route, Superfresh (5.12d), is perhaps miscredited as the straw the Flatirons is a sport-climbing adventure that has always captivated
that broke the camel’s back, after a frustrated Fern Canyon hiker com- me and fostered a deep appreciation for my Front Range predecessors.
plained of obnoxious loud drilling and chalked-up holds. Now, adjacent to late-80s LYCRA-stretching crimp-fests, you’re likely
The Flatirons slowly dissolved from the scene as more than to find spankin’ new hardware and fresh motivation. The majestic
a decade of banned bolting passed. It was not until 2003 that many of Flatirons are finally making a comeback, and there’s certainly no lack of
those same pioneers finally convinced the city to give sport climbing inspiring stone.
The Horn (5.13+) is a testament to the new climb-
ing potential in the Flatirons. This bouldery, strik-
ing line was recently equipped by the visionary Matt
Samet and Ted Lanzano just a few feet away from a
series of brilliant 23-year-old moderates. I proudly
made my first contribution to the beloved Flatirons
when I opened this route in April of 2010. Here, I’m
pictured on the beastly arête just moments before a
thunderstorm.
As the urban legend goes, this classic trail-
side testpiece led to the 13-year bolting ban
in the Flatirons. However, while Superfresh
(5.12d) was indeed the final route to be
added during the first wave of development,
it’s likely that the ban was due to building
tension and not in direct response to this
Colin Lantz burl fest. Here, Lauren Lee en-
joys a frigid wintertime lap.
This massive, north-facing formation on Dino-
saur Mountain was left untouched throughout
the first round of development. Thanks to the
recent efforts of Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano,
and Chris Weidner, it is now home to some
monstrous 5.13 mega-pitches with long 5.12
and 5.11 pitches waiting to be established.
Here, I’m pictured in the exiting crux se-
quence of Ultrasaurus (5.13b), a pumpy 30
meters above the deck.
Milk Bone (5.13a) ascends a wildly unique
tufa-like feature that redefines one’s under-
standing of sandstone. Thanks to the efforts
of Matt Samet and Chris Weidner, this 100-
foot monster recently became the first route
to be bolted on the north side of Dinosaur
Mountain. With a brutally thuggish crux and
a pumpy finish, Milk Bone remains consis-
tent with the Flatirons’ reputation for old-
school sandbagging. Here, Joey Kinder gets
a taste of the Flatirons renaissance.
On the west face of Der Freischutz, you’ll
find a handful of exposed, near-vertical
routes jokingly named after the preferred
rest day activities of the time. Here, Ted
Lanzano is pictured enjoying a late after-
noon dose of Drugs (5.11b), another Cay-
lor-Glover route from 1987.

FACES
OF CLIMBING
PHOTOS BY ANDREW BURR
It makes sense that climbing would produce beautiful images; breathtaking landscapes,
toned bodies, attractive subjects, and gymnastic moves combine to make fascinating imagery.
What is oftentimes overlooked is the mental demand, focus, and determination required by our
sport. These factors are not obvious or overpowering, but they do find a visible outlet through
one relatively small yet powerful force: faces. The following images will hopefully illustrate the
non-physical components that make up a good climbing photograph, and share a variety of
moments that were best described through the faces that lived them.
Adam Pustelniic, Air Sweden
(5.13R), American Alpine Club
International Climbers Meet,
Indian Creek, Utah

Whitney Boland, Secret 13
Wall, Red Rocks, Nevada
Zac Robinson, Finger Twinkies (5.12a),
Big Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
Rob Pizem on Rocky Mountain High
(5.12+), The Possibilities Wall, Mt.
Evans, Colorado
Melissa Lipani, Little Cottonwood
Canyon, Utah
Workshop:40
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
WHAT MAKES A PHOTOGRAPHER A PHOTOGRAPHER
BY UCMAG // PHOTO BY ANDY MANN
1 20
19
2
3
18
5
6
7
17
8
9
15
10
14
16
11
ver wonder what goes into making the photos you
E see covering the pages of every magazine? Well, look

no further. Cory Richards, a Boulder-based adventure
photographer, recently packed his bags for a trip to
Nepal to shoot and climb. What you see is what he took
with him, all with handy descriptions, so you, too, can understand
12
13
the gear that gives these photographers their edge when they
push the shutter button each and every day.
20 MUST-HAVES FOR PRO PHOTOGRAPHERS:
1. Reflectors: Reflectors are a lightweight, packable means to reflect 10. Proper photo bag: This, with appropriate dividers and padding, can
light onto a specific area without the harshness of a flash. save your camera’s life when it gets jostled around while you’re scram-
2. Extra flash cards: These ensure that when you’re out in the wilder- bling, hiking, and climbing.
ness and can’t upload your photos, you’ll always have extra space to 11. Beer: Mental lubricant
keep shooting without having to delete anything. 12. Tripod: For long exposures or low light, a tripod is a handy little
3. Harness: Get a comfortable one if you’re going to be hanging in it tool in the photog’s arsenal.
all day taking pictures. Nothing can ruin a photo sesh like your legs 13. Cash: Everyone takes cash everywhere. You can’t go wrong.
going numb. Whether you’re bribing border patrol into not stealing your gear or just
4. Extra clothes: If you’re shooting for a company, obviously use their splittin’ gas on the road, don’t leave home without it.
clothing, but also make sure your climbers are wearing bright clothes. 14. Phone: Ready for emergencies.
If they have neutral tones and blend into the rock, they’ll be a hard sell. 15. Rope/ropebag: Got to have a rope to climb so you can shoot from
5. Ascenders/etriers: If you could climb that super proj, you’d be get- above. Get a light one since you’ll be carrying a rope, climbing gear,
ting your picture taken. For mortal photographers, a set of ascenders and your camera equipment.
will get you up and down without having to climb something beyond 16. Rock shoes: Sometimes you just need to get in a pitch.
your limit. 17. Approach shoes: Hiking in flip-flops can be a pain in the ass. Good
6. Extra body: A backup camera body is never a bad idea when it’s pos- footwear will make a huge difference.
sible for your main body to break. 18. Protection/slings/draws: In case you need to set up your own an-
7. Flash: Creative use of a flash can add depth and character to a photo chor in a creative spot to get the perfect shot. Know your systems, and
that wasn’t usable before. don’t forget your auto-locking belay device for rappelling and shooting
8. Lens and camera cleaning gear/extra lenses: Keep your camera from above. Nothing inspires more confidence.
clean with the right agents to keep your photos coming out pristine 19. External hard drives: Every night, it’s smart to put your photos on
every time. backup drives. You won’t regret it if your computer ever bites the dust.
9. Battery charger/extra battery: Nothing is worse than getting ready 20. Computer: You can never really tell if you nailed a photo until you
to squeeze the trigger on a perfect shot only to realize your battery is see it on the big screen.
dead, and there’s nothing you can do about it.
;OL((*
PZHIV\[ÔH[TH[[LYZ
7+(%21'
((*TLTILYZ2H[L9\[OLYMVYK 4HKHSLPUL:VYRPU
OHUNVUAPVU»Z4VVUSPNO[)\[[YLZZK\YPUN[OLÄYZ[
HZJLU[I`HMLTHSL[LHT
4LTILYZOPWPUMV!
(TLYPJHU(SWPUL*S\IVYN
>OLYLJSPTILYZ\UP[L
Homage:40
THE INTERNET
A TRIBUTE TO THE ART OF UNADVENTURE
BY ARNOLD BRAKER // ILLUSTRATION BY VAL-O-RIE
am extraordinarily thankful that I did
I not climb in The Golden Age. Not because

Testarossas didn’t exist, not because Ray Jardine
hadn’t yet turned Indian Creek into a sport crag,
not because gyms didn’t exist to train in rain or shine,
not because stuffing stove legs in a crack was standard
practice, and not because Lithium-Ion SDS hammer drills
weren’t things of science fiction. No, I am glad to have
missed The Golden Age because there was no Internet. My
reasoning is manifold.
First, I’m a wimp. I have a lot of respect for all the old
cats — Bridwell, Chouinard, Kor, and the rest — but not for
the reasons most people do. Pioneering first ascents with
stiff rubber boots and hemp ropes is respectable and all,
but what impresses me even more is that
they did it before the silicon revolution.
Running it out on virgin rock over a No. 2 cally yelling “Allez!” at a flailing gumby. A couple months
RP takes commitment and balls that only ago, my friend Cass took photos with his
AC/DC sang about. New routing on The Dia- iPhone as I sent The Web in Eldorado Canyon.
mond without noaa.gov’s pinpoint weather Before I even got home, these photos had photos of my friends out there “just doing
forecast takes cajones which I cannot fathom. been uploaded to Facebook, and people were it” gets me psyched. It makes leafing through
See, the problem is that I have a debilitat- commenting about how sick I was and how old-school guidebooks and staring at chicken-
ing fear of the unknown. I do not like to go jealous they were. I felt almost famous for scratch topos that may as well be written in
where no man has gone before, and I do not about four seconds. I was then buried in the Farsi seem enervating at best.
like to go where no forecast goes presently. news feed underneath a mass of Farmville I know a lot of my climbing colleagues
Fortunately, I live in the digital age, and requests, shattered relationship status no- would go back to the halcyon days when real
the Internet easily solves these problems. tifications, and worthless updates (Phil was men hammered pitons, Eldo was still rife with
Between Google Earth, MapQuest, Mountain mowing his lawn and thought his junipers classic FAs to be had, and the ethical status of
Project, and my trusty GPS, I never fear tread- looked delightful). I guess four seconds is all bolting on rappel was unquestioned. Me? Hell
ing into (or up) unknown terrain because I get. no. I’m content to hammer keys and discuss
I never have to encounter it. With weather. Selfish interests aside, the Internet, trivial matters involving unfeeling hunks of
com and noaa.gov, my fear of the unknown besides being pure fun, gets me amped to stones’ ethical “rights” from behind a glowing
storm is conquered — or at least distilled go climbing. Just within the last 15 minutes, computer screen. Despite what my mother
into percentages. Thanks to the Internet, I I learned the following: Joe sent his project; said about my imagination when I was five, I
can cope just fine with my two shriveled Rifle isn’t seeping so much; Blake is going to simply can’t imagine being a climber without
little peas. Rifle; SOMEWHERE THERE IS A SECRET CRAG. the Internet and all its resources. Lords of Sili-
Fear is not the only reason I shudder to I saw sick photos of Leslie’s three-month trip con Valley, I salute you! You have empowered
imagine myself climbing in the days of yore. to Europe, saw butt shots of somebody I don’t wussies like me to enjoy an “extreme” sport
I, like Deirdre Burroughs from Running with know hangdogging Supercrack, and found a and, if only for four seconds, to feel famous.
Scissors, feel I have a right to be famous for really funny link to cracked.com. All this took Now if I can just get my friends to tag more
something at which I am not very good. The less time than it takes me to cook a power photos of me...
scores of video cameras at every boulder- meal of Ramen and sausage. While academ-
ing area in America tell me I’m not alone. ics have waxed longer and harder than Ron
Facebook lets me strive toward this goal Jeremy about what the Internet has done for our society, I
with unflagging dedication. I mean, let’s realize that this unending stream of real-time news and
be honest here: Facebook makes spraying
and self-promotion easier than patheti-
6XSHU6KXW
6SRUW$QFKRU
5LQJ$QFKRU 'RXEOH5LQJ$QFKRU
:LUHJDWH'UDZ
7KHDQFKRUVZHXVHDUHWKHVLQJOHPRVWLPSRUWDQWFRPSRQHQW
LQWKHFOLPELQJV\VWHP&OLPEHUVZLOOVSHQGWKRXVDQGVRI
GROODUVIRUWKHODWHVWDQGJUHDWHVWJL]PRWRNHHSKHUKLPVDIH
DQGDLGLQSURJUHVVLRQ,W·VWKHDQFKRUVWKDWDUHFRQVWDQWO\
RYHUORRNHG,VLWUHDOO\WKHURSHWKDWQHHGVUHSODFLQJRUWKH 6DOHV#),;(KDUGZDUHFRP
²\HDU²ROGKDUZDUHDW\RXUORFDOFOLII" ZZZ),;(KDUGZDUHFRP
'21·73/$&(-81.³5(3/$&(,7
Subscriptions:40
MATT SEGAL READS
DO YOU?
WWW.URBANCLIMBERMAG.COM/SAVE
CALL 800-829-9149
PHOTO BY ANDY MANN
Coin:40
FEMME VERTICAL
PETZL LADIES’ GEAR PACKAGE EXTRAVAGANZA
etzl’s all about adventure — accessing the in-
P accessible, as the Petzl peeps sometimes say — and

adventure is not and should not be solely the do-
main of men. Women are getting after it on the rocks and
in the gyms more and more, and with this trend in mind,
Petzl (petzl.com) offers up this month’s Coin: a women’s
climbing package that’ll make it that much easier for three
lucky ladies to get out and crush… and in style, no less.
The crowning item (literally) in this package is the new

ELIA helmet, a lightweight, comfortable, and aesthetic
skull saver engineered ground-up for women. The sizing is
more petite, and the patented OMEGA suspension system
adapts to ponytails.
The LUNA is a fully adjustable harness shaped to fit a

woman’s frame, from the waistbelt, to the lengthened
rise, to the reduced waist-to-leg-loop-size ratio. And like all
Petzl harnesses, the Frame Construction offers even sup-
port plus serious breathability.
Petzl’s new TIKKA2 is a member of Petzl’s updated

headlamp line. Petzl pretty much invented the modern
headlamp (originally for caving), and continues to innovate
to this day. The 40-lumen TIKKA2 features four powerful
LEDs; a big, easy-to-push button for on/off; and three light-
ing levels. Plus, it looks sweet in Tropical Blue.
The Petzl HERABINER is a special teal version of the

superclassic screwgate belay biner, the ATTACHE. Each
HERABINER purchased benefits the HERA Women’s Cancer
Foundation (herafoundation.org).
Go to urbanclimbermag.com/themag/coin/ for your chance

to score a Petzl women’s gear package. Allez!
squamish mountain festival
july14 •18
squamishmountainfestival.com
a 4 day celebration
of climbing culture
beneficiaries: sponsored by:
chief level
chief level
media level
bluffs level
rketplace : 4 0
Ma
Retailers:40
ALABAMA Hangar 18 Sacramento Pipeworks Wilderness Sports ILLINOIS KENTUCKY
Gander Mountain 256 Stowell Street #A 116 N. 16th Street 701 E Anemone Trail Gander Mountain Gander Mountain
3418 Memorial Pkwy NW Upland, CA 91786 Sacramento, CA 95814 Dillon, CO 80435 2100 S Randall Rd 3240 James Sanders Blvd
Huntsville, AL 35801 Mammoth Thresh Hold Climbing Geneva, IL 60134 Paducah, KY 42001
CONNECTICUT
Mountaineering Gym Gander Mountain
ALASKA Eastern Mountain Sports MAINE
3189 Main St 2111 Iowa Ave Suite A 3301 Essington Road
REI Danbury Fair Mall Eastern Mountain Sports
Mammoth Lakes, CA Riverside, Ca Joliet, IL 60435
1200 W Danbury, CT 06810 Marketplace at Augusta
93546 92507 Gander Mountain
Northern Lights Blvd #A Eastern Mountain Sports Augusta, ME 04330
Nomad Ventures Touchstone Concord 5114 Holiday Drive
Anchorage, AK 99503 Turnpike Shopping Center Eastern Mountain Sports
996 A North Coast 1220 Diamond Way Ste 140 Peoria, IL 61615
Fairfield, CT 06825 87 Marginal Way
ARIZONA Leucadia, CA 92024 Concord, CA 94520 Gander Mountain
Eastern Mountain Sports Portland, ME 04101
AZ On The Rocks Nomad Ventures The Triathlete Store Llc. 3068 McFarland Road
Plaza at Buckland Hills
16447 N 91st St #105 61795-29 14041 Midland Rd Rockford, IL 61114 MARYLAND
Manchester, CT 06040
Scottsdale, AZ 85260 Joshua Tree, CA 92252 Poway, Ca Lakeview Athletic Club Eastern Mountain Sports
Eastern Mountain Sports
AZ Cliff Hanger Nomad Ventures 92064 3212 N. Broadway Annapolis Harbour Center
952 High Ridge Road
1353 East iniversity drive 54415 N Circle Dr Vertical Heaven Indoor Chicago, Il Annapolis, MD 21401
Stamford, CT 06905
Tempe, AZ 85281 Idyllwild, CA 92549 Rock Climbing and School 60657 Earth Treks
Arizona Hiking Shack Nomad Ventures 1954 Goodyear Ave. North Wall 7125-C Columbia
530 Bushy Hill Road
11649 North cave creek road 405 W Grand Ave Ventura, CA 93003 824 S Main St Gateway Dr, Columbia,
Simsbury, CT 06070
Phoenix, AZ 85020 Escondido, CA 92025 Wilson's Eastside Sports Crystal Lake, IL 60014 MD 21046
Phoenix Rock Gym Planet Granite 224 North Main Street REI Earth Treks
Crystal Mall
1353 E University Dr 100 El Camino Real Bishop, CA 93514 8225 Golf Rd 725 Rockville Pike
Waterford, CT 06385
Tempe, AZ 85281 Belmont, CA 94002 Niles, IL 60714 Rockville, MD 20852
COLORADO Eastern Mountain Sports
Vertical Relief Planet Granite REI Earth Treks
Gander Mountain Corbins Corner Shopping
205 S. San Francisco St. 2901 Mead Avenue 17W160 22nd St 1930 Greenspring Dr
14000 E Jewell Avenue West Hartford, CT 06110
Flagstaff, AZ 86001 Santa Clara, CA 95051 Oakbrook Terrace, IL Timonium, MD 21093
Aurora, CO 80012 Prime Climb Rock Gym
Real Cheap Sports 60181 Gander Mountain
ARKANSAS Gander Mountain 340 Silversmith Park
36 West Santa Clara Vertical Endeavors 2410 N Salisbury Blvd
Gander Mountain 9923 Grant Street Wallingford, Ct 06492
Ventura, Ca 93001 28141 Diehl Road Salisbury, MD 21801
5450 Landers Road Thornton, CO 80229
REI D.C. Warrenville, IL 60555 Hudson Trail Outfitters
Sherwood, AR 72117 REI
1338 San Pablo Ave Hudson Trail Outfitters, Annapo1is Mall #149
Little Rock Climbing 9637 E County Line Rd INDIANA
Berkley, CA 94702 4530 Wisconsin Ave NW Annapolis, MD 21401
Center Englewood, CO 80112 Climb Time
REI Washington, DC 20016 Hudson Trail Outfitters
12120 Colonel Glenn Road REI Flagship 8750- Corporation Drive
1800 Rosecrans Ave #E 401 North Frederick Ave
#7000, Little Rock, AR 1416 Platte St DELAWARE Indianapolis, IN 46256
Manhattan Beach, CA Gaithersburg, MD 20879
72210 Denver, CO 80202 Eastern Mountain Sports Climb Time Towers
90266 Hudson Trail Outfitters
REI Concord Mall 9850 Mayflower Park Dr
CALIFORNIA REI 12085 Rockville Pike
1789 28th St Wilmington, DE 19803 Carmel, In
Adventure 16 1411 Village Way Rockville, MD 20852
Boulder, CO 80301 Eastern Mountain Sports 46032
2937 Bristol St Santa Ana, CA 92705 Hudson Trail Outfitters
REI Center Point Shopping Gander Mountain
Costa Mesa, CA 92626 REI 424 York Rd
1376 E Woodmen Rd Plaza, Newark DE 19713 1049 Emerson Ave
Adventure 16 1790 Expo Pkwy Towson, MD 21401
Colorado Springs, CO Greenwood, IN 46143
2002 South Coast Hwy Sacramento, CA 95815 FLORIDA REI
80920 Gander Mountain
Oceanside, CA 92054 REI Aiguille 9801 Rhode Island Ave
Rock'n & Jam'n 1 5705 E 86th St
Adventure 16 400 El Paseo de Saratoga 999 Charles St College Park, MD 20740
9499 N Washington St # C Indianapolis, IN 46250
11161 W Pico Blvd San Jose, CA 95130 Longwood FL 32750 Sportrock
Denver, CO 80229 Gander Mountain
Los Angeles, CA 90064 REI Gander Mountain 14708 Southlawn Lane
Rock'n & Jam'n 2 1630 Southlake Mall
Adventure 16 214 N Santa Anita Ave 3750 Flagg Lane Rockville, MD 20850
7390 Fraser St #E Merrillville, IN 46410
4620 Alvarado Rd Arcadia, CA 91006 Lake Mary, FL 32746
Centennial, CO 80112 Gander Mountain MASSACHUSETTS
San Diego, CA 92120 REI X-treme Rock Climbing
Spot Bouldering Gym 3602 S US Hwy 41 Eastern Mountain Sports
Adventure 16 213 Corte Madera Town Ctr 13972 SW 139 Ct
3240 Prairie Ave Terre Haute, IN 47802 1041 Commonwealth Ave
143 S Cedros Ave Corte Madera, CA 94925 Miami, FL 33186
Boulder, CO 80301 Gear Up Boston, MA 02215
Solana Beach, CA 92075 REI
Alpine Training Center GEORGIA 1316 N Green River Rd Eastern Mountain Sports
Adventure 16 777 Edinger Ave
1840 Commerce Street Adrenaline Climbing Evansville, In 91 Middlesex Turnpike
5425 Reseda Blvd Huntingdon Beach,
Boulder, Co 460 Brogdon Rd, Suite 100 47715 Burlington, MA 01803
Tarzana, CA 91356 CA 92647
80301 Suwanee, Ga 30024 JL Waters Eastern Mountain Sports
Adventure 16 REI
Backcountry Experience High Country Outfitters 109 North College Ave. One Brattle Square
2533 Pacific Coast Hwy 18605 Devonshire Street
1205 Camino Del Rio 3906 B Roswell Road Bloomington, IN 47404 Cambridge, MA 02138
Torrance, CA 90505 Northridge, CA 91324
Durango, Co Atlanta, GA 30342 Nurpu River Mountain Eastern Mountain Sports
Beach City Rock Gym REI
81301 Outward Bound Supply Village Shoppes of Canton
4926 W Rosecrans Ave 1119 Industrial Rd #1B
Bag & Pack Shop-Avon Urban Center 16907 Mystic Rd Canton, MA
Hawthorne, CA 90250 San Carlos, CA 94070
91 Beaver Creek Pl Atlanta, GA 30021 Noblesville, In Eastern Mountain Sports
Berkeley Ironworks REI
Avon, Co REI 46060 Mountain Farms Mall
800 Potter St 5556 Copley Dr.
81620 1800 NE Expressway Hadley, MA 01035
Berkeley, CA 94710 San Diego, CA 92111 IOWA
Mills Mountaineering Atlanta, GA 30329 Eastern Mountain Sports
Bridges Rock Gym REI Gander Mountain
16 Mt Evans Blvd The Climbing Store Anchor Plaza
5635 San Diego St 402 Santa Monica Blv 2140 Edgewood Road SW
Pine, Co 3032A North Decatur Rd Hingham, MA 02043
El Cerrito, Ca 94530 Santa Monica, CA 90401 Cedar Rapids, IA 52404
80470 Atlanta, GA 30079 Eastern Mountain Sports
Bullet Hole Training REI Gander Mountain
Mountain Chalet Adrenaline Climbing Holyoke Mall at Ingleside
Center 840 Brannan St 3940 Elmore Avenue
226 N Tejon St 460 Brogdon Rd, Suite 100 Holyoke, MA
15315 Cholame Rd Unit D San Francisco, CA 941033 Davenport, IA 52807
Colorado Springs,co Suwanee, Ga 30024 Central Rock Gym
Victorville, Ca 92392 Rock Climbing Tools
80903 The Gear Revival KANSAS 299 Barber Ave
Elevation 2649 Park Marina Drive
Sport Climbing Center 955 Marietta St Nw Gander Mountain Worcester, MA
13501 Chandler Blvd Redding, Ca
4650 Northpark Dr Atlanta, Ga 30318 605 S Wichita Street 01606
Van Nuys, CA 91401 96001
Colorado Springs, Co Wichita, KS 67202 Rock Spot Climbing
Granite Arch Rocknasium IDAHO
80918 Sunflower Outdoors 67 Sprague Street
11335 Folsom Blvd #G 720 Olive Dr #Z River Rat Whitewater
Thrill Seekers 802-804 Massachusetts Boston, Ma
Rancho Cordova, CA Davis, CA 95616 Toyz
1912 S. Broadway Lawrence, Ks 02136
95742 138 2nd Ave S
Denver, CO 80210 66044
Twin Falls, ID 83301
MICHIGAN Gander Mountain Red Rock Climbing Ctr Gander Mountain The Cliffs 2685 Creekside Drive
Climb Kalamazoo 8030 Wedgewood Lane 8201 W Charlston Suite 150 705 Frank Sottile Blvd 1 Commerce Park Twinsburg, OH 44087
136 S Kalamazoo Mall Maple Grove, MN 55369 Las Vegas, NV 89117 Kingston, NY 12401 Valhalla, NY 10595 Gander Mountain
Kalamazoo, Mi 49007 Gander Mountain Gander Mountain Brooklyn Boulders 2390 Niles Cortland Rd
NEW HAMPSHIRE
Bill & Paul’s Sporthaus 1747 Beam Avenue East 100 N Galleria Drive 575 Degraw Street Warren, OH 44484
1200 E Paris #5 Maplewood, MN 55109 Middleown, NY 12589 Brooklyn, Ny 11217
Fort Eddy Mall
Grand Rapids, Mi 49546 Gander Mountain Gander Mountain Glacier Bay Sports Cleveland Rock Gym
Concord, NH 03301
Gander Mountain 4900 County Rd 101 8635 Clinton Street 81 C Fort Salonga 21200 St Clair Ave
373 North Willowbrook Rd Minnetonka, MN 55345 New Hartford, NY 13413 Northport, Ny 11768 Euclid, OH 44117
Mall of New Hampshire
Coldwater, MI 49036 Gander Mountain Gander Mountain Manhattan Plaza Health Rockquest Climbing
Manchester, NH 03103
Gander Mountain 1201 South Broadway 60 Smithfield Blvd Club Center
5038 A Miller Road Rochester, MN 55904 Plattsburg, NY 12901 482 W 43rd Street 3475 Kemper Road
Webster Square
Flint Township, MI 48507 Gander Mountain Gander Mountain New York, Ny 10036 Cincinnati, OH 45241
Nashua, NH 03060
Gander Mountain 180 E Fifth St #1300 880 Young Street Ubiquity Distributors
Eastern Mountain Sports OKLAHOMA
4055 24th Avenue St Paul, MN 55101 Tonawanda, NY 14150 607 Degraw St
Main Street Rocktown Climbing Gym
Fort Gratiot, MI 48059 Gander Mountain Gander Mountain Brooklyn, Ny 11217
North Conway, NH 03860 200 Se 4th St
Gander Mountain 614 Second Street S. 1330 Arsenal Street
Eastern Mountain Sports NEW MEXICO Oklahoma City, OK 73129
4655 Canal Avenue Waite Park, MN 56387 Watertown, NY 13601
1 Vose Farm Road Stone Age Climbing Gym
Granville, MI 49418 Gander Mountain Eastern Mountain Sports OREGON
Peterborough, NH 03458 4201 Yale Avenue NE #I
Gander Mountain 10470 Hudson Road Stuyvesant Plaza Ashland Outdoor Store
Eastern Mountain Sports Alburquerque, NM 87107
2890 Acquest Ave SE Woodbury, MN 55129 Albany, NY 12203 37 3rd Street
Powerhouse Mall
Kentwood, MI 49512 Prairie Walls Eastern Mountain Sports NORTH CAROLINA Ashland, OR 97520
West Lebanon, NH 03784
Gander Mountain 4420 19th St. N.W. McKinley Milestrip Center Climb Redpoint Climb Max
430 N. Marketplace Blvd Rochester, MN 55901 Blasdell, NY 14219 5213 Raeford Rd Ste 103 2105 SE Division St
The Mall at Rockingham
Lansing, MI 48917 REI Eastern Mountain Sports Fayetteville, NC 28304 Portland, OR 97202
Park, Salem, NH 03079
Gander Mountain 750 W American Blvd Parkway Plaza Shopping Footsloggers Next Adventure
3465 US 41 West Bloomington, MN 55420 Center, Carle Place, 139 S Depot St 426 Se Grand Ave
West Street Shopping
Marquette, MI 49855 Vertical Endeavors NY 11514 Boone, NC 28607 Portland, OR 97214
Center, Keene NH 03431
Gander Mountain 834 Arcade Street Eastern Mountain Sports Gander Mountain Portland Rock Gym
43825 West Oaks Drive Saint Paul, MN 55106 Threshold Plaza 2223 Vanstory Street 21 NE 12th Avenue
100 Arthur Brady Drive
Novi, MI 48377 Vertical Endeavors Ithaca, NY 14850 Greensboro, NC 27427 Portland, OR 97232
Portsmouth NH 03801
Gander Mountain 855 Phalen Blvd. Eastern Mountain Sports Gander Mountain Redpoint Climbers
International Mountain
5348 S. Westnedge Ave St. Paul, MN 55106 Towne Center at 236 Norman Station Blvd Supply
Equipment
Portage, MI 49024 Fayetteville Mooresville, NC 28115 8283 11th Street
MISSOURI 2733 Main St.
Gander Mountain Fayetteville, NY 13066 Looking Glass Outfitters Terrebonne, OR
REI North Conway, NH 03860
2270 Tittabawassee Rd Eastern Mountain Sports 90 New Hendersonville 97760
1703 S Brentwood Blvd
Saginaw, MI 48604 NEW JERSEY 4124 Routes 44 & 55 Hwy REI
St Louis, MO 63144
Gander Mountain Eastern Mountain Sports Gardiner, NY 12525 Pisgah Forest, NC 28768 1405 NW Johnson St
Rock On
14100 Pardee Road Somerset Shopping Center Eastern Mountain Sports RedPoint Indoor Portland, OR 97209
1221 Independence Dr
Taylor, MI 48180 Bridgewater, NJ 08807 2453 Main Street Climbing REI
West Plains, MO 65775
Gander Mountain Eastern Mountain Sports Lake Placid, NY 12946 5213 Raeford Road #103 7410 SW Bridgeport Rd
Upper Limits
3500 Market Place Circle Monmouth Plaza Eastern Mountain Sports Fayetteville, NC 28304 Tigard, OR 97224
326 S 21st St
Traverse City, MI 49684 Eatontown, NJ 07724 591 Broadway The Climbing Place
St Louis, MO 63103 PENNSYLVANIA
Gander Mountain Eastern Mountain Sports New York, NY 10012 436 West Russell St
Alpine Shop Climb North
13975 Hall Road The Promenade at Eastern Mountain Sports Fayetteville, NC 28301
440 N Kirkwood Rd 2468 Wildwood Rd.
Utica, MI 48315 Sagemore Spackenkill Plaza Black Dome Mountain
Saint Louis, Mo Wildwood, PA 15091
Gander Mountain Marlton, NJ 08053 Poughkeepsie, NY 12601 Sports
63122 Gander Mountain
2230 Mall Drive East Eastern Mountain Sports Eastern Mountain Sports 140 Tunnel Rd
Dynamic Earth 3285 Black Gap Road
Waterford, MI 48328 820 Route 17 North The Shoppes at Wilton Asheville, Nc 28805
Equipment Chambersburg, PA 17201
Higher Ground Rock Gym Paramus, NJ 07652 Saratoga Springs, NY 12866 Climbmax Inc.- Asheville
1110 East Republic Rd Gander Mountain
820 Monroe Nw Unit 18 Eastern Mountain Sports Eastern Mountain Sports 43 Wall St
Springfield, MO 65804 955 Viewmont Drive
Grand Rapids, MI 49503 Market Fair East Chester Shopping Asheville, Nc 28801
Dickson City, PA 18519
Michigan News Agency MONTANA Princeton, NJ 08540 Center, Scarsdale, NY 10583
NORTH DAKOTA Gander Mountain
308 West Michigan Barrel Mountaineering Gravity Vault - Chatham Eastern Mountain Sports
Gander Mountain 2088 Interchange Road
Kalamazoo, Mi 49007 240 East Main Street 40 Watchung Ave Mohawk Commons
2121 43rd St SW Erie, PA 16565
REI Bozeman, MT 59715 Chatham, Nj 07928 Schenectady, NY 12304
Fargo, ND 58104 Gander Mountain
766 E Big Beaver Rd Northern Lights Trading Ramsey Outdoor, Inc Eastern Mountain Sports
1040 Towne Square Drive
Troy, MI 48083 Company 835 Route 17 S Carousel Center Mall OHIO
Greensburg, PA 15601
1716 W. Babcock Ramsey, Nj 07446 Syracuse, NY 13290 Gander Mountain
MINNESOTA Gander Mountain
Bozeman, Mt 59715 Randolph Climbing Eastern Mountain Sports 5388 Westpointe Plaza Dr
Gander Mountain 5005 Jonestown Rd
Pipestone Mountain- Center 1270 Niagara Falls Blvd Columbus, OH 43228
385 Edgewood Dr North Harrisburg, PA 17109
eering 3 Middlebury Blvd. Tonawanda, NY 14150 Gander Mountain
Baxter, MN 56425 Gander Mountain
129 129 W Front St Randolph, Nj 07869 Eastern Mountain Sports 5244 Cobblestone Road
Gander Mountain 600 Galleria Blvd
Missoula, Mt 59802 REI 66 Rockland Plaza, Elyria, OH 44035
1313 Paul Bunyan Johnstown, PA 15904
Steep World 501 Route 73 South Nanuet NY 10954 Gander Mountain
Bemidji, MN 56601 Gander Mountain
208 N 13th Street Marlton, NJ 08053 Eastern Mountain Sports 1320 Holland Sylvania R
Gander Mountain 2400 Market Place Blvd
Billings, Mt 59101 The Gravity Vault Pittsford Plaza, Rochester Holland, OH 43528
10650 Baltimore St NE Moon Township, PA 15108
Trail Head - Mt 107 Pleasant Ave Rt 17N NY 14618 Gander Mountain
Blaine, MN 55434 Gander Mountain
221 East Front St Upper Saddle River, NJ Extra Vertical 8001 Old Troy Pike
Gander Mountain 66 Mall Parkway
Missoula, Mt 59802 07458 61 W 62nd Street Huber Heights, OH 45424
4275 Haines Road Pensdale, PA 17756
New York, NY 10023 Gander Mountain
Duluth, MN 55811 NEVADA NEW YORK Gander Mountain
Island Rock Gym 9620 Diamond Centre Dr
Gander Mountain REI Gander Mountain 1500 W Chestnut Street
60 Skyline Dr Mentor, OH 44060
14640 W Freeway Drive 2220 Village Walk Drive 5864 Carmenica Drive Washington, PA 15301
Plainview, NY 11803 Gander Mountain
Forest Lake, MN 55025 Henderson, NV 98052 Cicero, NY 13039 Gander Mountain
Outward Bound 4938 Portage Street NW
Gander Mountain High Altitude Fitness Gander Mountain 4505 Century III Blvd
29-46 Northern Blvd North Canton, OH 44720
16861 Kenyon Avenue 880 Village Blvd 300 Jay Scutti Rd West Mifflin, PA 15123
Long Island City, NY 11101 Gander Mountain
Lakeville, MN 55044 Incline Village, Nv Henrietta, NY 14467 Gander Mountain
Rock & Snow 2644 Taylor Rd SW
Gander Mountain 89451 1880 Loucks Road
44 Main St Reynoldsburg, OH 43068
1940 Adams Street York, PA 17404
New Paltz, NY 12561 Gander Mountain
Mankato, MN 56001
Retailers:40
Eastern Mountain Sports Gander Mountain Eastern Mountain Sports Ottawa, ON K2A 0E8
Park City Center 3301 Corsicana Crossing B Manchester Shopping Gander Mountain True North Climbing
Lancaster, PA 17601 Corsicana, TX 75110 Center, Manchester West 190 North 10768 75 Carl Hall Rd #14
Eastern Mountain Sports Gander Mountain Center, VT 05255 Germantown, WI 53022 Toronto, ON M3K 2B9
Valley Square Village 19820 Hempstead Rd Eastern Mountain Sports Gander Mountain
QUEBEC
Center, Warrington PA Houston, TX 77065 Diamond Run Mall 2323 Woodman Drive
Atmosphere Sherbrooke
18976 Gander Mountain Rutland, VT 05701 Green Bay, WI 54303
2325 King Ouest
Eastern Mountain Sports 2725 Highway 75 North Green Mountain Gander Mountain
Sherbrooke, QC J1J 2G2
34th & Chestnut Sts., Sherman, TX 75091 223 Woodstock Avenue 2900 Deerfield Drive #8
La Cordee
Philadelphia PA 19104 Gander Mountain Rutland, VT 05701 Janesville, WI 53546
2777 St. Martin Blvd. West
Outward Bound 19302 Interstate 45 Eastern Mountain Sports Gander Mountain
Laval, QC H7T 2Y7
3250 West Sedgeley Drive Spring, TX 77373 100 Dorset Street 6801 120th Ave
La Cordee
Philadelphia, PA 19130 Gander Mountain South Burlington, VT 05403 Kenosha, WI 53140
2159 St. Catherine St. East
Philadelphia Rock Gym 19890 Southwest Freeway Outdoor Gear Exchange Gander Mountain
Montreal, QC H2K 2H9
East 520 N Circle Dr Sugarland, TX 77479 152 Cherry St 2002 Zeier Road
La Cordee
Oaks, PA 19456 Gander Mountain Burlington, VT 05401 Madison, WI 53704w
1595, Boul. des Promenades
REI 2301 University Ave Gander Mountain
WASHINGTON St-hubert, QC J3Y 5K2
200 W Ridge Pike Ste 115 Texarkana, TX 75503 7349 West Towne Way
Edgeworks Climbing Mountain Equipment Coop
Conshohocken, PA 19428 Gander Mountain Madison, WI 53719
6102 North 9th St. #200 8989 Boulevard de l'Acadie
REI 151 Market Square Blvd Gander Mountain
Tacoma, WA 98406 Montreal, QC H4N 3K1
412 S 27th Street Tyler, TX 75703 1560 HWY
Mountain Gear Mountain Equipment Coop
Pittsburgh, PA 15203 REI Mosinee, WI 54455
2002 N Division 405 St-Joseph East
Exkursion 4515 LBJ Freeway Gander Mountain
Spokane, WA 99207 Quebec, QC G1K 3B6
4037 William Penn Hwy Dallas, TX 75244 9519 State Hwy 16
Mountain Goat Outfitters
Monroeville, PA 15146 REI Onalaska, WI 54650 NOVA SCOTIA
12 West Sprague Ave
Milton Rock Gym 7538 Westheimer Rd Gander Mountain Mountain Equipment Coop
Spokane, WA 99201
45 S Front St Houston, TX 77603 4308 County Rd J 1550 Granville St
REI Flagship
Milton, PA 17847 Sheboygan, WI 53083 Halifax, NS B3J 1Z7
UTAH 222 Yale Ave N
Gander Mountain
RHODE ISLAND Black Diamond Retail Seattle, WA 98109 INTERNATIONAL
315 West Pine
Eastern Mountain Sports 2092 East 9200 South REI International High Sports
West Baraboo, WI 53913
Garden City Shopping Salt Lake City, UT 84124 7500 166th Ave NE 51/52 Wyle Cop,
REI
Center Mountain Works Redmond, WA 98052 Shrewsbury
7483 W Towne Way
Cranston, RI 02920 2494 N University Pkwy REI SY1 1XJ England UK
Madison, WI 53719
Eastern Mountain Sports Provo, UT 84604 3825 S Steele St FMTech Climbing Club
Middletown Square REI Tacoma, WA 98409 WYOMING B2101 Zhongshan Road
Middletown, RI 02842 3285 E 3300 S Stone Gardens Enclosure Climbing Tianjin, China
Rhode Island Rock Gym Salt Lake City, UT 84109 2839 NW Market St Center Pump Climbing
100 Higginson Ave The Desert Rat Seattle, WA 98107 670 Deer Drive 2-20-10 Higashimotomachi
Lincoln, Ri 02865 468 W St George Blvd Vertical World Jackson, Wy 83002 Kokubunji-shi
Saint George, UT 84770 5934 State Highway 303 NE Mountain Sports - WY Tokyo, Japan
TENNESSEE
The Front Climbing Club Bremerton, WA 98311 543 South Center Klimhal Amsterdam
Gander Mountain
1450 South 400 West Vertical World Casper, Wy 82601 Naritaweg 48
11501 Parkside Drive
Salt Lake City, UT 84115 15036-B 95th St 1043 BZ Amsterdam NL
Knoxville, TN 37934 ALBERTA
Redmond, WA 98052 Bookshop Piz
Rock/Creek Outfitters VIRGINIA Mountain Equipment Coop
Vertical World Muellstr. 25
100 Tremont St Eastern Mountain Sports 12328 - 102nd Ave NW
2123 W Elmore St Zurich 8004 CH
Chattanooga, TN 37405 The Market Common Edmonton, AB T5N 0L9
Seattle, WA 98199 GearshopNZ
Rock/Creek Hamilton Place Arlington, VA 22201 Mountain Equipment Coop
234 Kawai St South
2200 Hamilton Place Blvd Gander Mountain WEST VIRGINIA 830 -10th Ave SW
Nelson, New Zealand
Chattanooga, TN 37421 3708 Plank Rd Adventure's Edge Calgary, AB T2R 0A9
Castle Climbing Center
Outdoor Experience (TN) Fredericksburg, VA 22407 131 Pleasant Street
BRITISH COLUMBIA Green Lanes
136 S Walnut Ave Hudson Trail Outfitters Morgantown, WV 26505
Beyond The Crux London E6 5SF UK
Cookeville, Tn 38501 Pentagon Row Water Stone Outdoors
#2 - 1414 Hunter Court Manchester Climbing
River Sports Outfitters Arlington, VA 22202 101 E Wiseman Ave
Kel wna, BC, V1X 6E6 Centre
2918 Sutherland Avenue Hudson Trail Outfitters Fayetteville, WV 25840
Cliffhanger St Benedict's Church
Knoxville, Tn 37919 9488 Arlington Blvd.
WISCONSIN 106 West 1st Avenue Manchester M12 5ND UK
The Crag At Cool Springs Fairfax, VA 22031
Adventure Rock Climbing Vancouver, BC V12 Outdoor
121 Seaboard Lane Hudson Trail Outfitters
21250 West Capitol Drive Cliffhanger Old Baptist Chapel
Franklin, TN 37067 Springfield Mall #F-11
Pewaukee, WI 53072 98 Brigantine Drive Caernarfon LL55 4EN UK
Springfield, VA 22150
TEXAS Adventure Rock Coquitlam, BC Roca Solida
Peak Experiences
Austin Rock Gym 21250 West Capitol Drive Mountain Equipment Coop AV.19 #133-23
11421 Polo Circle
4401 Freidrich Lane #300 Pewaukee, WI 53072 130 West Broadway Bogotá, Colombia
Midlothian, VA 23113
Austin, TX 78744 Boulders Climbing Gym Vancouver, BC V5Y 1P3 Cuoredipietra
Sportrock
Austin Rock Gym 3964 Commercial Ave Mountain Equipment Coop Via Giovanni Scapacino
45935 Maries Road
8300 North Lamar #B-102 Madison, WI 53714 1341 Main St, North #15
Sterling, VA 20166
Austin, TX 78744 Divepoint Scuba Center 944 Vancouver, BC V7J 1C4 10146 Turin, Italy
Sportrock
Exposure Rock Climbing Main St CRUX
5308 Eisenhower Ave MANITOBA
2389B Midway Stevens Point, Wi 54481 16-9 Hiroshiba
Alexandria, VA 22304 Mountain Equipment Coop
Carrollton, TX 75006 Gander Mountain Osaka, Japan 564-0052 UC
Virginia Beach Rock Gym 303 Portage Ave
Texas Rock Gym 535 N. Westhill Blvd
5049 Southern Blvd Winnipeg, MB R3B 2B4
1526 Campbell Rd Appleton, WI 54914
Virginia Beach, VA 23462
Houston, Tx 77055 Gander Mountain ONTARIO
Gander Mountain VERMONT 19555 West Bluemound Rd Joe Rockhead's
10100 W Interstate 40 Climb High Brookfield, WI 53045 29 Fraser Avenue
Amarillo, TX 79124 191 Bank St Gander Mountain Toronto, ON M6K 1Y7
Gander Mountain Burlington, Vt 4045 Commonwealth Ave Mountain Equipment Coop
5855 Eastex Freeway 05401 Eau Claire, WI 54701 400 King St West
Beaumont, TX 77706 Gander Mountain Toronto, ON M5V 1K2
6939 S. 27th Street Mountain Equipment Coop
Franklin, WI 53132 366 Richmond Rd
The Wall:40

The Wall:40
For a Free Catalog,

1-800-CAMPMOR
(800-226-7667)
Or Write:
PO BOX 680-UC9
MAHWAH, N.J.
www.campmor.com 07430-0680
• BACKPACKING • FAMILY CAMPING • CLIMBING

• RUGGED CLOTHING, OUTERWEAR & FOOTWEAR
• BIKE TOURING • WATERSPORTS • TRAVEL
The Rock Wall

at The Sports Center at Chelsea Piers
Private Lessons • Group Climbs

Belay Certifications • Bouldering Wall
NEW! Youth Programs &

Non-Member Access Cards
Call 212.336.6083 or visit

www.chelseapiers.com/scrockwall
planet-rock
com 8 7 7 . 3 8 0 . 4 3 2 7
(YJ»[LY`_ -P]L;LU
)SHJR :[LYSPUN
+PHTVUK 1L[IVPS
7L[aS =LY]L
4HTT\[ +9**
4L[VSP\Z TVYL
3H:WVY[P]H
,]VS] >/,9,;/,
,?7,9;:
:/67
10am-Midnight, Every day!

• Bouldering, Bouldering, Bouldering & More 67 Sprague St.
Steep Top Out Boulders Boston, MA 02136
• Hundreds of awesome professionally set, www.rockspotclimbing.com
frequently changed routes
• Conveniently located off I-95/I-93 in Boston &
TM
10AM-MIDNIGHT, EVERY DAY!

• 50 ropes, lead climbing, bouldering 100 Higginson Ave.
• Awesome routes, frequently changed Lincoln, RI 02865
• HUGE selection of shoes in our retail store www.rhodeislandrockgym.com
• 10 minutes from Providence off I-95/Rt. 146
Follow us online!
$19.95
SKRAMMEDIASTORECOM
UCMAG TSHIRTHTML

Finish hold:40
RHYME TIME
ANDREW BURR
BY BROOKS WALKER
COMBATING GLOBAL
CLIMBIT CHANGE
For his poetic prowess, Brooks
Finished.
ho hum, Walker wins the Alpinisto
Flashed, flapped, and flabbergasted.
to the haters that knock or chop pack from Gregory (gregory-
Wrought with a hyper-inflated ego to domi-
the competent work of a bolt and a gun. packs.com), a comfy catch-all
nate the “lates and greats,”
Spun out, for days at the crag or on the
with no need to imitate,
and strung out, summit. If you want fresh gear
but to exacerbate at a rate that will eventually
on all the flying done, like this, send Finish Hold sub-
communicate,
to keep big heads in the clouds, missions (350 words max, with
the good cop, bad cop, controlling influence
looking down, pics and/or art) to finishhold@
that we seek to eradicate.
on all of the ones having fun, urbanclimbermag.com.
being a dumb climbing bum,
To each his own,
always weary of the setting sun.
and to own his each,
But the day has just begun,
trying to teach and preach to a leach,
so no worries.
who’s only wanting to breach,
There’s time for stories,
the intercranium so he can see how he eats,
free from the juries,
and walks, balks, curses, and speaks.
of haters and inflaters,
Sorry, but eff that.
who get off to seeing someone flail, bail, and never exhale,
and to no avail,
It would be such a tragedy,
this is nobody’s trail.
that you could get mad at me,
Soon, projects will be for sale.
purely out of envy,
And it’s a lame shame,
that I can be me, the way I am,
that so much pride is in a name,
outside of your society,
a search for fame,
that lies to me,
which is not the same,
and treats me inferiorly.
as the game I play,
So let me be,
................................
to never be a deity and have anyone worship
so climb on that.
me,
climbing freely,
to the beat of my own drum,
the
FUSE
The fine line between success and failure
The 9.4mm FUSE weighs only 56 grams per meter

Exceptional durability for its weight and diameter
Super smooth feeding, clipping, and handling
Duratec Dry™ treatment protects each individual
sheath and core fiber
Climb Ready Coil™ eliminates out-of-package twists
For those who know that sending is often a matter
of millimeters
www.petzl.com

Urban Climber 2010-06 07

Caricato da

Informazioni sul documento

Titolo originale

Copyright

Formati disponibili

Condividi questo documento

Condividi o incorpora il documento

Opzioni di condivisione

Hai trovato utile questo documento?

Questo contenuto è inappropriato?

Copyright:

Formati disponibili

Urban Climber 2010-06 07

Caricato da

Copyright:

Formati disponibili

PHOTO

RENAN OZTURK, BRAZIL

SEE THE VIDEO AT

Photo: Tim Kemple

DAMON CORSO ARNOLD BRAKER

Omega suspension system is

*Assuming you don’t have a Y chromosome

Over Web Production: Jesse Erlbaum, Noah Mormino,

200,000 Advertising Sales: Kevin Riley

climbers Circulation: Chris Berry

started Words: Arnold Braker, Jonathan Siegrist,

at Mountain Burr, Andy Chasteen, Brian Solano, Caroline

Gear URBAN CLIMBER MAGAZINE is published eight times a year by Skram

Contributors: To get articles and pictures

Thanks and Thoughts:

Photo: Eric Odentha

started shooting pretty much the day I started climbing. That

Post your images to the UCMag

We can only conclude the following from these responses.

BURNING UP BURL FOR YOUR BUCK

BOBBLE HEAD SECOND NATURE

LOOK, MOM! NO DOLOMIGHTY

HANDS! Fashionistas always say that picking the

ASTRAL PROJECTION HOOP DREAMS

A American bouldering comps, Chris Sharma

ompetition climbers are a special

C breed. While the rock and natural lines

PHOTO ANNUAL 2010 URBANCLIMBERMAG.COM 27

I tion value of climbing ﬁlms has

MODEST AND COCKY

ZEN ALPINE CROSS SHOE

INCREDIBLE COMFORT, SUPPORT AND DURABILITY

H because all your friends want to come over all the

GIVE YOUR TOES

PUSH, PULL AND STAND ON HOLDS LIKE

Lisa Rands climbing This

or a kid that grew up all over the globe, John Dickey,

F 35, sure is down to earth. Regarding how to take a good

Who, photographically, do you look up to? I tend to ﬁnd ele-

What’s the scariest situation you’ve been in while shooting?

What’s so great about shooting climbing anyway? It’s exciting,

For more from Dickey, visit his website at dickeyphoto.com.

John Dickey at home in Eldo

Colette McInerney on Joe Blow

ournalist. Climber. Photographer.

J Writer. Barefoot runner. My Little Pony enthusi-

What do you do outside of climbing and photogra-

How does climbing photography compare to your journal-

Advice to aspiring climbing photographers? Mix a little

For more from Treadway, visit her blog at carolinetreadway.

PHOTO ANNUAL 2010 URBANCLIMBERMAG.COM 35

Jonathan Siegrist on Heretic

Heath Lillie on Streetcar

Carrie Cooper on Frantic (V8),

Luke Parady beach bouldering

ORBIT A complete line of carabiners (straight, bent, wires, keylocks,

“Black Mountain will always hold a special place in

INTRO BY ETHAN PRINGLE //

PHOTO ANNUAL 2010 URBANCLIMBERMAG.COM 47

Thomas Schmid from Austria zeros in on the send.

“Sunshine Daydream is possibly the

“Root Canal is located in the coolest section of the Valley: Curry

“Nicole Overhang, hidden way in the back of the Plan-