Water Proof breathable Apparel

Waterproof breathable fabrics are designed for use in garments that protection
from the weather, that is from wind, rain and loss of body heat. Waterproof
fabric completely prevents the penetration and absorption of liquid water, in
contrast to water-repellent fabric, which only delays the penetration of water.
Traditionally, waterproof fabric was made by coating (like animal fat, wax,
vegetable oils). Nowadays, uses polyvinylchloride (PVC) polymer. Coated fabrics
are, however, considered to be more uncomfortable to wear than water-repellent
fabric, as they are relatively stiff and do not allow the escape of perspiration of
vapour. Water-repellent fabric is more comfortable to wear but its water-resistant
properties are short lived. The ideal fabric should be waterproofed (do not allow
water get into the fabric) and breathable (allow water vapour escape from skin).
Breathable fabrics allow water vapour (gas) to diffuse through fabric and still
prevent the water penetration of liquid water. Production of water vapour by the
skin is essential to maintenance of body temperature. The normal body temp. is 37
C, and skin temp is between 33 to 35 C. During physical activity, the body
provides cooling by producing perspiration. If the water vapour cannot escape to
the surrounding, the relative humidity of the microclimate inside the clothing
increase and clothing becomes uncomfortable to wear.

Perspiration rates and activities:

Table shows the perspiration rates and activities from sleeping to max work rate. If
the body is to remain at the physiologically required temp. clothing has to permit
the passage of water vapor from perspiration rate as shown in Table 12.1. The
ability of fabric to allow water vapour to penetrate is commonly known as
breathability. The waterproof breathable fabrics prevent the penetration of liquid
water from outside to inside the clothing. It can, however, permits the penetration
of water vapour (gas) from inside the clothing to outside atmosphere.

Types of waterproof breathable fabrics

The classification is based on two criteria:

 The structure of the waterproof breathable layer.

 The technique used for developing WBF.

According to their structure, WBFs are basically: tightly woven made of long fiber

cotton fabric, microporous (laminated or coated) with very small gaps throughout
allowing water vapor to escape to the outside but now allowing water to permeate
into the fabric from the outside, and finally the third kind is composed
of nonporous structure and has been developed as hydrophilic films in which water
vapor is absorbed on one side of the film and re-evaporates from the other side
whilst preventing liquid water penetration. Any other types are just various
combinations of two or more of these.
The main principle behind microporous membranes and coatings is the following:
water drops cannot penetrate because the pores are smaller than a raindrop, while
perspiration evaporates through because the pores are larger than vapor molecules.
The diameter of a water vapor molecule is 40×10⁻⁹mm and the diameter of various
drop types is much larger as you can see in Table 1.
Microporous membranes and coatings function well when the size of the pores on
the outer surface of the fabric is no bigger than 0.0002-0.0003mm which is
equivalent to 2-3μm. At the same time, the average pore size in microporous
membranes is between 0.0001 and 0.005mm (1-50μm). Generally, water vapor
transmission depends on the size and thickness of pores as the decrease in pore size
and thickness increases the water vapor transmission.
 Table 1: Diameters of various types of drops

Source: Waterproof and Water Repellent Textiles*, p.373

 

Figure 1: Major types of waterproof and breathable fabrics

(A) typical view of tightly woven fabric, (B) coated woven fabric and (C) laminated
woven fabric
The mechanism of moisture transmission at hydrophilic structures

Microporous membranes

Membranes are thin films made from polymers. There are basically two types of
membranes – microporous membranes (they’re hydrophobic) and hydrophilic
membranes.
The most widely used polymers for microporous fabrics are expanded PTFE
(ePTFE) and polyurethanes (PU). Microporous films have about 1.2-1.4 billion
tiny holes per square centimeter. These pores are much smaller than the smallest
raindrops and they usually range between 0.1 and 10μm (1mm=1000μm). At the
same time, they’re larger than water vapor molecules so that they can pass through
the pores of the membrane. The process is illustrated in the figure below.

The first commercial microporous layer in textiles was introduced by W.L. Gore in
the 70s and consisted of a microporous structure that was about 70% air. This
membrane has around 1.4 billion pores per square centimeter, with each pore
20,000 times smaller than a drop of water, but 700 times larger than a vapor
molecule. The membrane is laminated to a conventional fabric to provide enough
mechanical strength (the film itself is mechanically weak).

Figure 3: Working principles of microporous structure in water vapor

transfer

Waterproof breathable clothes: constructions

Consumers have high expectations of sportswear, particularly of waterproof and
breathable clothes. They expect functionality, aesthetics, fit, comfort, ease of
movement, reliability, and protection from environmental conditions like rain,
snow, and cold. Certainly, both functionality and aesthetics are not always equally
necessary. Functionality is more important for professional sportswear. Aesthetics
is more important for those who prefer to wear sport clothes in the city. Thus, the
level of activity must be taken into account in the design stage. There are also
important components of a waterproof garment that must be specially designed.
Among them: cuffs, hems, zippers, hoods, pockets, and seams.
Waterproof breathable fabrics are laminates, consisting of up to three distinct
bonded layers. 3-layer constructions are the most waterproof and most durable, but
also heaviest and least breathable. Such constructions often look the following
way:
  Face fabric treated with a durable water repellent (DWR). It’s usually
made of nylon or polyester and is expected to be durable. In general, the
thicker the fabric, the more durable the garment.
 Waterproof breathable membrane.
 Lining protects the membrane from abrasion and pore-clogging
contaminants such as body oils.
There are three main types of constructions.

Arrangement of individual layers in WBFs and application in outdoor jackets

How to make a waterproof and breathable fabric

We want to prevent water molecule (liquid) to get it the fabric and allow water
vapour (gas) to pass from skin to fabric. The size of water droplet (liquid) is 100
μm and the water vapour (gas) is 0.0004 μm and we need to make a fabric with
porous space around 10 μm. In this way, it allows water vapour to pass through
(from skin to fabric) and prevent water droplet to penetrate (from outside to
fabric).

Types of waterproof breathable fabric

Different types of breathable fabrics can be classified into the following groups :
1. Cloosely woven fabrics
2. Microporous membranes and coatings
3. Hydrophilic membranes and coating
 4. Combination of microporous and hydrophilic membranes and coating
5. Retroreflective microbeads
6. Smart breathable fabrics
7. Fabrics based on biomimetics
There are several methods which can be used to obtain fabrics which are both
breathable and water proof. They are:
1. Densely woven fabrics
2. Membranes (Gore-tex fabric)
3. Coatings
Densely woven fabrics
Probably the first effective waterproof breathable fabric was developed in the
1940s for military purposes and is known as Ventile. Ventile fabric uses the finest
cotton yarn, combed and piled together. The yarn is woven using Oxford weave,
which is a plain weave with two threads acting together in the warp. When the
fabric surface is wetted by water, the cotton fibres swell reducing the size of the
pores in the fabric and requiring very high pressure to cause penetration. The fabric
is thus rendered waterproof without the need for any water repellent finishing
treatment. The densely woven waterproof breathable fabrics consist of cotton or
synthetic microfilament yarns with compacted weave structure. One of the famous
waterproof breathable fabrics known as VENTILE was manufactured by using
long staple cotton with minimum of spaces between the fibres1. Usually combed
yarns are weaved parallel to each other with no pores for water to penetrate.
Usually oxford weave is used. When fabric surface is wetted by water the cotton
fibres swell transversely reducing the size of pores in the fabric and requiring very
high pressure to cause penetration. Therefore waterproof is provided without the
application of any water repellent finishing treatment. Densely woven fabrics can
also be produced from micro-denier synthetic filament yarns. The individual
filaments in these yarns are of less than 10 micron in diameter, so that fabrics with
very small pores can be engineered.

Fig: Highly dense woven plain fabric

Highly dense fabric Results:
The use of very fine fibres and filaments and dense construction (setts) results in
fabrics with very small pore size compared with conventional fabrics. Typical pore
size for waterproof fabric is about 10 μm compared with 60 μm for conventional
fabric. Ventile fabric has a pore size of about 10 μm when dry and 3-4 μm when
wet. Fabric made from micro-filaments is claimed to have 7000 filaments per cm.

Breathable fabric by Monofilament Fibers

Water Proof Fabric Made from Different Fibers:

Polyester
Polyester has outstanding dimensional stability and offer excellent resistance to dirt,
alkalis, decay, mold and most common organic solvents. Being durable, yet lightweight,
polyester has elasticity and a comfortable smooth feel or “soft hand”. These are all
important qualities to consumers for a wide variety outerwear and recreational
applications. Excellent heat resistance or thermal stability is also an attribute of
polyester. It is the fibre used most commonly in base fabrics for active wear because of
its low moisture absorption, easy care properties and low cost. Polyester is essentially
hydrophobic and does not absorb moisture. However, most polyester used in base layer
clothing is chemically treated so that they are able to wick moisture. This can be done
by:
 Coating the polyester with a hydrophilic finish; or
 Changing its surface chemistry to improve its wetting by moisture.
Changing the surface chemistry of the polyester involves introducing free hydroxyl
groups into molecules on the surface of the filament. The result is a de structuring of
water, causing wetting. The combination of opposing properties-a hydrophobic core and
a hydrophilic surface-creates a fabric in which the fibres encourage moisture to migrate
through the fabric along the outer surface of the filament while the hydrophobic core
does not absorb moisture. The main disadvantage of chemical or molecular modification
is that it is more costly for the fabric manufacturer. However, the effect on the fabric is
"permanent". To be classified as permanent, it has to have the capability to withstand at
least 50 home washings. Most coatings, by contrast, have an average lifespan of five
home washings. Toray develops airfine Fieldsensor which is made from a polyester
filament yarn which has the grooves help the fabric absorb sweat quickly and disperse it
along the surface. Company claims that the moisture absorbing and dispersing property
of the new material is twice a great as its former Fieldsensor fabric. Polyester coolmax
has been claimed to increase wearer comfort through rapid removal of perspiration by
capillary. Also it has good wicking properties and nonabsorbency. Coolmax and
thermostat polyester fibers used in two fold garments claimed to wick moisture away
from the skin (the former) and to maintain warmth (the later).

Polypropylene
Polypropylene cannot wick liquid moisture. However, moisture vapour can still be forced
through polypropylene fabric by body heat. Polypropylene has the advantage of
providing insulation when wet But it can melt at medium heat in home dryers. Also,
polypropylene is more oleophilic (oil absorbing) than polyester Consequently, it has a
greater tendency to attract and hold oily bod) odours even more. Polypropylene is
claimed to be a proved performer in moisture management due to its hydrophobic
nature and has very good thermal characteristics, keeping the wearer warm in
cold weather and cold in warm weather.

Nylon
Nylon fibre characteristic include lightweight, high strength and softness with good
durability. Nylon also quickly when wet. Nylon is good fabric choice when combined with
PU coatings. Nylon has a much higher moisture regain than polyester and therefore has
better wicking behaviour. It is most often used in tightly woven outerwear, which can
trap heat because of low air permeability. It is also used in more breathable knitted
fabrics, where it can perform well. However, it is much more expensive than polyester
and is therefore only used in premium applications such as swimwear and cycling wear.
Also, because of its higher moisture regain, it dries more slowly than equivalent fabrics
made from polyester. Teijin DuPont Nylon has developed a waterproof fabric, polus-Ex
that is permeable to moisture. The material is made by laminating a multiporous film to
a nylon fabric and a moisture permeability of 8000 g/m2/24 hours, as well as 20 m head
of water.

Silk
Because of its hollow structure, silk breathes well. It is soft strong and has natural
wicking properties. However, it dries slowly and requires care in cleaning.

Wool
Not all grades of wool are appropriate for a base layer. First, since it's next to skin, it
shouldn't itch. The "itch" so commonly noticed in wool garment results from the fiber
ends tickling. Consequently, short fibers will cause more itch than long fibers because
there will be more fiber ends touching your skin. Second, the fiber should be very fine.
This allows for a fabric of high fiber density to be made, which increases strength and
abrasion resistance in addition to increasing the air movement between and adjacent to
pockets of dead air space in the fabric (thus, increasing warmth). Finally, fine fibers
absorb less water weight per cross-sectional area, so they are more resilient than
coarse fibers.
Cotton
Cotton garments provide a good combination of softness and comfort. However, cotton
is not recommended for use in base layer clothing because of its tendency to absorb
and retain moisture. When wet, cotton garments cling to the skin. Causing discomfort.
Wearing jeans on the ski slopes, for instance, will not only weigh down the skier but will
also cause chilling if the jeans become wet.

The slow-to-dry and cold-when-wet characteristics of cotton make this material

unsuitable in conditions in which there are high levels of moisture-either perspiration or
precipitation-and where the ambient temperature is low. During SASMIRA’s trials for
wicking of cotton treated with hydrophobic finishes showed good wicking properties.

Viscose Rayon
The viscose rayon is not preferred next to skin as it holds water (13 % moisture regain)
in sportswear. The outer layer of knitted hydrophilic portion of the twin layer sportswear
can be of viscose rayon, which absorbs 2-3 times more moisture than cotton. The
wicking behaviour improves by incorporation of some hydrophobic finishes.

Rain jackets

The outer layer should provide protection from wind and precipitation. So you
need to choose your rain jacket wisely keeping in mind that you must find one with
the right balance between weight and functionality.
The ideal shell is lightweight, windproof, fully waterproof, and completely
breathable, and… it doesn’t exist. There’s just no garment that can achieve all
these objectives. Many passionate outdoorsmen carry two different shell layers – a
lightweight windproof shell and a lightweight waterproof jacket. The reason is
simple – it’s barely impossible to find one piece of garment that’s fully waterproof,
completely breathable, and wind-resistant at the same time. You can be more
flexible by carrying such a system with two different outer layers. Rain shell is
usually worn only in heavier rain or for periods of low-intensity walking, while
breathable wind gear is worn in cool and windy conditions, and for periods of
heavy exertion.
Typical Waterproof Breathable Jacket Design
Conclusion:
In this modern world, water proof breathable fabric is the greatest invention among
the most useful invention for human being. Once upon a time, textile world face
some limitation in their textile product inventory but nowadays it can be said to tell
undoubtedly, there is no restrictions in the textile world. When water proof
breathable fabric was discovered, textile word seemed there is no restriction is the
textile world. Water proof breathable fabric is very important because of playing
vital role in sports wear.

References:

1. “Waterproof Breathable Active Sports Wear Fabrics” Sanjay S. Chaudhari,

Rupali S. Chitnis and Dr. Rekha Ramkrishnan ,The Synthetic & Art Silk
Mills Research Association, Mumbai
2. ASTM D3393-Standard Specification for Coated FabricsWaterproofness
3. "Breathability" comparison of commercial outerwear shell layers
4. Rupp, J., “Architectural Textiles: Economical And Ecological Roofing”,
5. Multi-layered Breathable Fabric Structures with Enhanced Water Resistance
Ilhan Ozen, Ph.D. Erciyes University, Melikgazi, Kayseri TURKEY 

Submitted By
Name ID
Md. yeasin arafat omi 2017000400014
Khorshed alam 2017000400023
Tanjidul Islam 2017000400019
Anisha Alamgir Mila 2017000400013