THREADS OF SOCIETY IN LAOS

Linda S. McIntosh
Presentation for the Textile Research Centre
July 16, 2019
 LAO PEOPLE’S
DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC
(LAOS)

50 official ethnic groups belong to

the following ethno-linguistic
families:

• Tai-Kadai
• Austro-Asiatic
• Hmong - Mien
• Sino-Tibetan
North Laos
Sino-Tibetan Ethno-Linguistic Family
Akha subgroups
Akha
 N O RT H L AO S
H M O N G M I E N E T H N O - L I N G U I S T I C FA M I LY
WHITE HMONG
 HMONG TEXTILE
PRODUCTION

• Decorative techniques – post-weaving

• Batik
• Embroidery
• Stitching
• Applique and reverse applique
• Barter or purchase of fabric and silk
threads
• Cultivation and weaving of hemp
• Confined to a couple of areas presently
Striped Hmong White Hmong – plain, undyed hemp skirt
Indigo-dyed hemp
Batik – indigo
Applique in market-bought cotton
Embroidery in bartered or purchased silk
MAN’S BELT

WOMAN’S BELT
North Laos – Hmong Mien Ethno-
Linguistic Family - Striped Hmong
North Laos
Hmong Mien Ethno-Linguistic Family
White Hmong
North Laos – Austro-Asiatic Ethno-Linguistic Family
Khmu subgroups
 KHMU
Most Khmu subgroups did not weave but bartered or purchased textiles from neighbouring
groups.
In NW Laos, the Khmu mainly acquired cloth from Tai Lue weavers. Khmu attire resembles Tai
Lue attire in this region.
Women from one subgroup from Nam Tha Province weave on backstrap looms.
North Laos -
Tai-Kadai e-l family
Tai Lue
Attire reflects a
wearer’s village origin,

Phongsaly Province
& Muang Sing, Luang
Nam Tha Province.
Combination of
handwoven cloth
and imported
material such as silk
ribbon from China
Tai Lue – numerous
substyles

General identity markers:

1. Red waistband
2. Patterning of middle
section in horizontal
orientation when worn
and two side seams
3. Large indigo or black
border

Decorative Techniques:
1. Weft Ikat
2. Continuous and
discontinuous supplementary
weft
3. Dove-tail tapestry
North and Northeast Laos
Tai-Kadai e-l family
Tai Neua, Tai Daeng, Tai Dam
 Tai Neua –Hua Phan or Phongsaly Province, North Laos

Blouse – fabric purchased

from marker or
handwoven, indigo-dyed
cotton

Tubular Skirt – Sin

Vertical orientation of
patterning

Techniques
1. Weft ikat
2. Warp ikat
3. Supplementary Warp
4. Dove-tail Tapestry
5. Supplementary Weft
1. Continuous
2. Discontinuous
Sin Man – horizontal orientation
and densely patterned border
Sin Tiin Nyai

Large, densely patterned

border while the midsction
is plain.

Use of imported materials

a sign of wealth

1. Chinese silk or cotton

cloth
2. Metal threads

Tai Neua or Tai Daeng, Hua Phan Province, Northeast Laos

 Sin Mii Noi
Sin Mii Taa

Sin Mii
Mii – weft ikat

Weft ikat organized in

bands
Small bands – Mii Noi
Large bands – Mii Taa

Borders on skirts of
Tai groups in the
north are often
narrow and lacking
patterning.
Tai Dam
Northwest Laos
Luang Nam Tha Province
 SIN MII MUK KOH

Tai Daeng
Hua Phan Province, Northeast Laos
Warp and Weft Ikat
Supplementary Warp
Discontinuous Supplementary Weft
Tai Dam, Hua Phan Province, Northeast Laos

Early 20th century Late 20th century

Phaa Khan Hua, head cloth
Cotton, silk, discontinuous supplementary weft
Tai Neua, Muang Vaen Hua Phan Province,
Northeast Laos
Phaa Khan Hua head cloth
Cotton, silk, supplementary
weft
Tai Deang, Hua Phan Province,
Northeast Laos
Northeast Laos
Tai-Kadai e-l family
Tai Phuan
Tai Phuan
Xieng Khouang Province,
Northeast Laos

Sin Mii

Midsection: weft ikat

Border: continuous and discontinuous
supplementary weft
Tai Phuan
Xieng Khouang Province, Northeast Laos
Sin Mii Luang
Phaa Bieng, shoulder cloth
Cotton, silk, supplementary weft
Tai Phuan, Hua Phan Province
Northeast Laos
Central Laos – Lak Sao Central Laos – Lak Sao
Tai-Kadai e-l family Tai Thanh subgroup
Tai Phuan and Tai Thanh subgroups 21st century
Central Laos, Bolikhasay Province
Tai-Kadai e-l family
Tai Muey subgroup
Central Laos, Bolikhasay Province
Tai-Kadai e-l family
Tai Muey

Sin Mii Taa

Midsection: weft ikat, continuous supplementary weft
Border: Discontinuous supplementary weft
Austro-Asiatic e-l family
Katang group
South Laos
Cotton, silk, supplementary weft
Katang
Savannakhet, Province
 Ceremonial Textile
Silk, cotton, weft ikat
Katang
Savannakhet Province
South Laos
South Laos

Austro-Asiatic e-l family

Some subgroups:
Katu
Ta-oi
Talieng
Krieng

Textile Production:
1. Cotton
2. Backstrap loom
3. Textile patterning:
1. Warp float
2. Beading
Katu
Austro-Asiatic e-l family
South Laos

Skirt
Cotton, warp float, metal
beads
Katu
Austro-Asiatic e-l family
South Laos

Left,
Loincloth
Cotton, warp float,
ceramic beads

Right,
Cape
Cotton, warp float, metal
beads
Katu
Sekong Province, South Laos
21st century

Foot-braced back-strap loom

21st century
Katu textiles
Katu, Salavan Province, South Laos
Lao, Tai-Kadai e-l family
Phongsaly Province, North Laos
North Laos, Luang Prabang, former
royal capital
Lao, Tai-Kadai e-l family
 Lao

South Laos South Laos Central Laos

Waistband: cotton fabric; metal
threads and silk, continuous
supplementary weft
Midsection: silk
Border: metal threads and silk
continuous supplementary weft
Waistband: metal threads and silk, continuous
supplementary weft
Midsection: silk, weft ikat
Border: metal threads and silk
continuous supplementary weft
Waistband: cotton fabric; metal threads and silk,
continuous supplementary weft
Midsection: silk, weft ikat
Border: metal threads and silk
continuous supplementary weft
Phaa Bieng, shoulder cloth
Silk, metal threads, supplementary weft
Lao, Vientiane Province,
Central Laos
THANK YOU
FOR YOUR
ATTENTION