i

~5hirt.[ollar I

with a stand
Many shirt collars have
,
stands to help the collar )
follow the curve of the neck
for a really good fit. These
collars turn down at the top
~---
of the stand and have iI
. practically no roll. For
clarity the upper collar is
dark green and the under
collar is light green ..
(jj. Pin the upper and under collar stands, right sides facing and the
• Dark green ~ upper collar. ~ collar in between, as shown above. Beginning at the corner point

o of the stand, stitch around the curve and along the lower edge through,
Light green = under collar. all thicknesses of fabric, to the corresponding point on the other side;
of the stand. Trim the seam allowances to 0.6 em (t") and clip .
:
•

I
I
I

,. In the photograph above you

\Ican see the upper collar and
the upper stand cut out of single
fabric, plus the under collar and
the under collar stand to which
iron-on interfacing has been
applied to lend firmness to the
finished collar. Mark the meeting
points of the collar and shoulder
seam on the stand.
Note: Delicate fabrics should be
interfaced. Use tafetta, organza,
or cambric. Baste the interfacing
onto the under collar and stitch in
with the upper collar.

P in the upper collar and under

collar together, right sides 'tt. Trim the two inner seam allowances close to the stitching. The
facing, along the marked line on ~ four layers will be less bulky as a result.
the outer edges. Stitch and turn
(see Illustrated Sewing II, photo-
graph numbers 3 and 4). Top-
y
ou can now turn the collar stand. Make sure that the two shaped.
ends of the stand are identical in shape and size. The seam allow- \
stitch around the edges. ances should be clipped again if they do not lie flat. '

450

•
 'press the seam allowances toward the stand. Turn under the seam
allowance on the remaining open edge of the upper collar and
baste onto the seamline, overlapping the seamline by about 0.3cm (t").

".
•
PFAFF
\.
;
!h Havi\1g turned the stand,
•• baste through all thicknesses
with diagonal basting stitches,
~ while at the same time you are
rolling out the seam with your
left hand so that all layers of the
seam allowance lie completely flat.

I Lightly press the basted edge

from the wrong side of the
collar. Pull out the basting stitches
and press once more. Before
attaching the collar to the neck
edge, complete the front opening
edges of the garment, finishing the
edges with facings which are then
• caught into the stitching when the
collar is attached. Work a line of
stitching around the neck edge so f:tt Stitch the bastedstand from the right side of the garment, stitching
that the fabric doesn't stretch. ""directly on the neck edge seam.

I.'t Pin the stand onto the neck

~ edge with the right sides up'.
Baste along the neck edge and
then, taking care that no tucks
,form beneath the needle. stitch ~ Top-stitch the edges of the ~ The collar will turn evenly if
. through the layers. Cut seam " collar stand to match collar ..., it is pressed down about 0.6
,allowances diagonally at the ends.
, edges. cm (i") above the stand.

451
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