COSMETICS

LAB
NOVEMBER ´19

Cosmetics
made with
care
 5
Editor’s Note From aloe vera

Content
to skin cream:
0 Five major steps
in the cosmetics
1
06 The 2019 cosmetics R&D chain

14
industry in 5 numbers
Ingredients
deemed safe for
use in cosmetics
development
Top trends in
the cosmetic 08
6
industry for 2020:
Green is clearly in Quiz

1
18
Horoscope

10
Q&A
with the Expert
 T
here is no denying that the green wave has washed over the cosmetics industry,
leaving behind a multitude of “clean” products. But what does being green ac-
tually mean? Not so many of us can clearly state the difference between “clean”,
“natural”, “safe,” “green”, “organic” and “nontoxic”. Even government regulators
have trouble differentiating between ingredients that are harmful and harmless.
Currently, the EU regulates more than 1,300 substances in cosmetic products, the FDA only
about 30. At this day and age of growing information and misinformation, it is very easy to get
lost in marketing jargon that could mean almost nothing at the end.

Still, the numbers clearly show consumers are becoming more and more interested in the make-
up of their make-up. A 2017 study of thousands of women in the U.S. showed that nearly
70% of millennials read beauty product ingredient labels prior to making a purchase. Topping
the list of ingredients that deterred consumers from buying a cosmetic product were sulfates
(31%), parabens (23%), and synthetic fragrances (18%). Oxybenzone, PEG compounds, min-
eral oil, nanoparticles and retinyl palmitate also have a bad rep.

It is nearly impossible to distinguish specific health effects from the chemical exposure in cos-
metics from the rest of the chemicals that constantly surround us. And as most toxicologists
would have you know, it is often not the substance, but the dose that makes the difference.
Regardless, “Paraben-free” has become one of the most common natural labels out there. But
if cosmetics are made without a proper substitute for this preservative, there is a higher chance
of microbial contamination in the finished product. “Natural” products refer to plant-based
cosmetics, but not everything natural is good for you. “Chemical-free” labels doom all synthet-
ic ingredients unsafe, yet many of these have zero health effects on us. Water, itself a chemical,
included.

There is no doubt that companies should be placing importance on products that are best for
human health and the environment. But rather than focusing so much on labels that tend to
mean different things to different people, companies should be investing in the solid science
needed for clean cosmetics development. The only way to justify the label is to make sure
what’s in the package mimics what’s onWednesday, 23 October 2019 15:15 and their
the package. The one label that the products
consumers deserve is “made with care”. Care for human health. Care for work conditions. Care
for the process. Care for the environment.

Dr. Aurelie Demont

Product Specialist
BÜCHI Labortechnik AG

4 5
 The 2019
cosmetics industry
in 5 numbers
The world of beauty has been evolving over the years and the sector of cosmetics and
personal care is expanding. Creativity in development, marketing, health and well-be-
ing is a must for any cosmetics company. In the highly competitive industry, products
must differentiate and use of innovative technologies can help achieve this goal.

Customers are also getting more demanding when it comes to quality, effectiveness
and immediate results. Consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the effects and
impact of their purchasing choices on society and the environment. More and more,
they search for products with information on the raw materials used and their origin.
Simultaneously, they require cosmetics development with the highest level of innova-
tion and effectiveness.

Keeping this in mind, here are 5 key numbers shaping the cosmetics industry right
now:

9,4% >50% 120

percentage
compound annual growth rate
(CAGR) the global Natural and
Organic Cosmetics market is
forecasted to register until 2025
percentage
reduction in water consumption
during development process by
2020 committed to by several
cosmetic giants
billion
units of packaging produced ev-
ery year by the global cosmetics
industry, most of which are not
recyclable

1938 8783
year the Federal Food, Drug and
Cosmetic act was passed. The act
ingredients on the Chinese
Inventory of Existing Cosmetics Mirror, mirror on the wall,
who’s the greenest of
is the only US government mon- that companies that supply
itor of ingredients in cosmetics cosmetics ingredients or fin-
and has not much changed in the ished cosmetics in China can use
last 80 years (Cosmetics Europe)
them all?
6
 Natural, effective
and innovative formulations
Customers are becoming more
aware of the ingredients in the
cosmetics they are purchasing
Top trends in
and are interested in how the
products are made. Raw mate-
rial, source of origin, environ-
mentally and ethically respectful
the cosmetic practices, but not at the price
of product effectiveness, are all
important points for the 2020
industry for
consumer. An increasing number
of reports show that many new
green ingredients are now fully
2020
able to replace traditional syn-
thetic ingredients. From surfac-
tants to emulsifiers or rheology
modifiers, R&D scientists may
Green
finally have some natural op-
tions for their formulations.
Neutral, ethical and sustainable
is clearly in practices
These values are becoming
sticking points in all industries
concerned with customer life-
The cosmetic industry is notorious for its negative effect on the styles, from food and clothing to
environment. Production practices contribute to pollution and drain pharma and tourism. In cosmet-
natural resources. The unknown health effects of some cosmetic in- ics, customers are increasingly
gredients have also raised concerns about the safety of the products. demanding zero waste, 100%
recyclable packaging, fair-trade
In the last few years, new innovations in the cosmetic industry have practices. With more cosmet-
been influenced by customer quests for healthier lifestyles, where ic actives coming from plant
natural is always considered to be safer and better than synthetic. extracts, herbs or spices, sus-
tainable sourcing is mandatory.
Will major developments continue to reflect the green trend in 2020? Creating “responsible” supply
Take a look at our predictions: chains enables the development
of active and quality ingredients
while guaranteeing the security
and sustainability of the supply
and the respect of local produc-
ers.
Men care
Companies are increasing their
number of men care product
lines and a number of brands
are emerging that are solely fo-
cused on the male customer.
8
Green solvents
Except for a few exceptions,
organic solvents from the pe-
troleum industry are soon to be
banished from the development
of cosmetics. R&D scientists
are therefore challenged to find
development methods or green
solvents for extraction of bioac-
tive compounds in an environ-
mentally friendly way, without
organic solvents.
Skincare
Customers already prefer nat-
ural skincare products, so com-
panies will likely revisit natural
archives to develop new effective
formulas. Consumers are also
more concerned with the impact
of pollution and a stressful life-
style on their skin and well-be-
ing. They will look for innovative
solutions with a link to nature
in the formulation. Ingredients
from other science fields are
being integrated into the for-
mulas as active ingredients and
a probiotic trend is making its
way into skincare.
Easily accessible product
information
A growing number of sources
are available to consumers to
help them make greener choices
when purchasing cosmetics. For
example, apps, such as Think
Dirty, the GoodGuide and
CosmEthics, are developed so
that users can easily scan a cos-
metic product and find out its
ingredient list. Often, the apps
recommend safer or healthier
alternatives to products contain-
ing harmful substances, such as
oil refined from petrol.
 Q&A with the Expert
Christian Walter, who has 30 years of experience in chemistry
research, explains the important aspects of the cosmetics R&D
workflow.
Q: Hello Christian Walter. Can you
tell us a little bit about yourself ?
A: Currently I am the Sales and
Service Director at the BUCHI
group, but I’ve always been
and always will be a passionate
chemist at heart. I often miss the
times when I was working as a
bench chemist in flavor and fra-
grance research labs. My favorite
cosmetic product is my organic
hemp hand cream from a British
cosmetics company. It helps me
with my severe dry skin when
I am snowboarding in the cold
Swiss winters, without hurting
the environment.
Q: Could you tell us about
the first steps in the develop-
ment of new natural cosmetic
ingredients?
A: Yes. The successful develop-
ment of new natural cosmetic
ingredients is a long-term mul-
tistep process. At the beginning,
various natural products like
plant material, agricultural by-
products and plants with known
medicinal properties are screened
to yield different interesting can-
didates. These are then extracted
and analyzed for bioactivity and
evaluated from a commercial
point of view.
“ The extraction
from natural material
has to be cost effective
and scalable.
10
Q: Could you explain how plant
materials are assessed in the lab?
A: Before assessment, compo-
nents are extracted from the
plant using a suitable solvent,
heat and potentially mechanical
treatment. Different compo-
nents are separated by chroma-
tography and then subjected to
phytochemical characterization
and bioactivity assays. Christian Walter
Director Sales & Service
Q: What do these assays usually
screen for?
Q: Are we finished once the ingre-
A: Various different character- dient is concentrated?
istics relevant for a cosmetic
product. For example, a sub- A: No. Discoloration and deodor-
stance may have potential as a ization of the ingredient is often
cosmetic due to its optical prop- necessary for the product to be
erties (shine, whitening, color) accepted by the consumers and
its positive effect against aging to satisfy requirements of the
(anti-wrinkles, hydration, an- marketing departments.
ti-elastase, anti-hyaluronidase)
or medicinally helpful properties Q: What else has to be done be-
(anti-inflammatory, anti-bacteri- fore a new cosmetic product can
al, anti-oxidant). be launched to the market?
Q: What happens to the ingre- A: Particularly important is also
dient if it shows interesting the formulation of the active in-
properties? gredient. How can it be applied
in a cream, lotion or powder, so
A: Well, after some bio-activity that it can easily be absorbed
is detected, the active substance by the skin at the desired spot.
must be characterized structur- Recently great advances have
ally by techniques such as mass been made using techniques such
spectroscopy (MS), nuclear mag- as encapsulation or spray drying
netic resonance (NMR), Infrared which protect the bio-active mol-
Spectroscopy (IR) or others. ecule until it has permeated the
As a next step, the production
process needs to be optimized, in
skin to the right layer, so it can
have the maximum effect.
particular, the extraction from
natural material has to be cost
effective and scalable. Sometimes
the extract needs to be concen-
trated as well.
 From aloe vera
to skin cream
Five major steps in the cosmetics R&D chain
Throughout its full value chain, the cosmetic indus-
try should make a positive contribution to the eco-
systems and the environment. Innovation needs to be
constant for brands to be able to update their prod-
ucts and to continue staying in line with customer
demands. At the same time, even though cosmetic
products should only act on the skin and should not
have any therapeutic action, their manufacturing
and commercialization follow strict rules that are
constantly changing.
Innovation in the cosmetics industry is neither short
term nor static. It can take over five years of re-
search and formulation to bring a new product on the
market. Some of the products are also improved and
re-developed to respond to the ever-changing expec-
tations of consumers and to meet the latest regula-
tions. One can hence say that technology, R&D, and
innovation are at the heart of the cosmetic industry.
They are the tools that create solutions for products
to not only be environmentally and ethically friendly,
but to also give consumers high-quality performing
products with the best possible materials.
1 One can dissect the cosmetics
value chain into five steps:
Sourcing of raw material –
Sourcing of raw material must
satisfy national and interna-
tional norms and regulations.
The Nagoya Protocol, imple-
mented in 2014, ensures the
countries of origin share in the
benefits from using materials of
plant, animal, microbial or other
origin containing functional
units of heredity. The law sup-
ports conservation and sustain-
ability of genetic resources, with
the aim of enhancing biodiver-
sity and human welfare.
12
2
Screening of active ingredients –
Raw material is systemati-
cally screened for active in-
gredients. Frequently, natu-
ral ingredients are extracted
(UniversalExtractor E-800,
SpeedExtractor E-914), pu-
rified (Pure Chromatography
systems) and concentrated
(Rotavapor® R-300). Then spe-
cific cosmetic properties such as
whitening, anti-oxidant, an-
ti-elastase, anti-hyaluronidase,
anti-inflammatory, anti-collag-
anese and many more activities
are tested.
3
Rotavapor® R-300
Formulation of a finished prod-
uct or an intermediate product –
Formulation is both structural
and functional. There must be a
strong affinity among the struc-
tural ingredients to produce a
desired physical form. This step
may include discoloration or de-
odorization steps for marketing
purposes. During formulation,
spray-drying (Mini Spray Dryer
B-290, Encapsulator B-390)
and freeze-drying (Lyovapor™
L-200, L-300) are commonly
used to dry emulsions and pre-
pare solid ingredients.
4
Development & Packaging –
R&D processes are scaled up
at this point to enable devel-
opment of large quantities of
product. This step also involves
improving the use of materials,
discarding faulty batches before
or during R&D, guaranteeing
suitability of the packaging,
assessing the durability of
products and ensuring product
consistency.
UniversalExtractor E-800
Encapsulator B-390
5
Quality control of intermediates
and finished product –
Quality control is performed
over the entire value chain to
make sure products meet re-
quirements and regulations. QC
frequently involves checking in-
termediates or final products for
odor smells, reactions with skin,
expiry dates, leakage check-
ing of the packaging, function
tests and workmanship checks.
Sample preparation for analy-
sis of metals can be facilitated
using the BUCHI Digestion
portfolio. The NIRFlex N-500
FT-NIR spectrometer provides
reliable identification and quan-
tification of substances and is
ideally suited to QC and R&D
purposes. An optimal solution
to analyse non-UV absorbing
contaminants in cosmetic sam-
ples would be an HPLC system
equipped with the Alltech Model
ELSD 3300 HP from BUCHI.
NIRFlex N-500
13
 Restricted use of synthetic ingredients in natural cosmetics development
Ingredient Example Use
Susbtances without allergens, Add scent
Fragrances nitromusks, terpens
Necessary for specific dosage forms
Synthetic waxes and miner- Ceresin, oyokerite, vaseline which require high melting point and
al oils high levels of stability in heat (sticks)
Compensation for variable composition
Synthetic colouring agents Manganese violet of natural colouring agents
Alkylether sluphate deriv- Obtaining special dosage forms that
Sodium laureth sulphate
atives are economically viable
EDTA, tetrasodium gluta- Chelating agents Prevent contamination or discoloration
mate diacetate
Isodecylpentanoate, isononyl
Esters isonanoate, neopentyl glycol Give dosage specific feel and rendering
diheptanoate
Ethylene, propylene, butylene Often no natural substitute available;
Glycols dosage forms that are economically
glycol viable
Stabilising certain emulstions with
Ethoxylated derivatives PEG, -eth, polysorbate high concentrations of active ingredi-
ents; improving texture
Providing texture; in sun protection
Silicones Non-CMR silicones ensure effective solubilization of UV

Ingredients deemed safe filters

for use in cosmetics

A number of synthetic ingredients are prohibited from use in natural cosmetics by official regulations.
Besides these, cosmetics manufacturers typically avoid using the following ingredients due to potential
risks to our health or damage to the environment.

development Prohibited use of synthetic ingredients in natural cosmetics development

Ingredient
Fromaldehyde and
Example
Diazolidinyl urea, DMDM
Reason for prohibition
Classification as cancerogen mutagen
formol-releasing ingredients hydantoin, quaternium 15 reprotoxic (CMR)
Natural cosmetics development is based on ingredients of natural origin. Typically, a small fraction of Toxicology, irritation, allergen risks;
Essential oilis Lavender essential oil composition of these oils is too variable
synthetic ingredients makes its way into the final formulation for several reasons. There are synthetic
ingredients that are considered perfectly safe for our health and the environment. These can be used in Camphor, menthol, Sensitivity risks particularly in young
Terpenes
natural cosmetics development when no natural alternative exists or when the natural ingredient sub- eucalyptol children and babies
All CMR-classified products Polyaminopropyl
stitute has a lower safety and effectiveness profile or is much more expensive than the safe synthetic biguanide Classification as cancerogen mutagen
ingredient. (PHMB) reprotoxic (CMR)
Sensitivity risks particularly in young
Ethanol Ethanol children and babies
Acceptable use of synthetic ingredients in natural cosmetics development Potential risk of long-term health
Endocrine disruptors Phtalates
Ingredient Examples Use effects
Parabens Methylparaben
Synthetic buffering agents Citric acid, sodium carbonate, pH regulation
potassium hydroxide Glycol ethers Phenoxyethanol
Preservatives/additives with Salicylic acid and its salts, Alkyl sulphate derivatives SLS
Help extend product shelf life
antimicrobial activity sorbic acid, its salts
Cyclotetrasiloxane Silicone Potential health risks
Reflecting and scattering of UV light
Sun protection ingredients Zinc oxide BHA and BHT in basic state
rays
Aluminum chlorohydrate
Benzoic acid
Some synthetic ingredients are used with more caution during natural cosmetics development. Their use Ingredients derived from
is often required to achieve a good balance between safety, effectiveness and cost of the final product. Environmental protection
protected species

14 15
 Quiz
How well do you know the
techniques used in cosmetics
development?
Answer a few chemistry questions and see how well you know ingredients
and technologies used for cosmetics R&D.

1. What equipment is pictured in 2. What equipment is in the 3. What equipment is pictured 7. Which of the following is 8. What equipment is pictured in 9. Bees wax can be used in
the below? image below? in the image below? often used to create glimmer the image below? cosmetics for which of the
and shine in cosmetics? following?

A. Muscovite A. Protection against

B. Parabens microbial infection
C. Triclosan B. Thickening agent
D. Aluminum C. Softening skin by
preventing water loss
D. Pigmentation

10. What is the purpose

of emulsifiers?

A. To keep polar and

unpolar substances from
separating
B. Prevent growth of
microorganisms
C. Thicken the product
consistency
A. HPLC A. Lab-scale evaporator A. Freeze dryer D. Improve taste A. Western blot
B. Extraction unit B. Industry evaporator B. Spray dryer B. TLC
C. PCR C. Wet digester C. Rotavapor C. Kjeldahl unit
D. Glass oven D. Centrifuge D. Chromatography unit D. Chromatography system

1:B, 2:A, 3:B, 4:C, 5:D, 6:B, 7:A, 8:D, 9:C, 10:A
4. How many chemicals can be 5. Which of the following is 6. What are the two main Answers
found in an average lipstick? not a coloring agent? categories of pigments?

A. 0-10 A. Chromium oxide A. Blue and red If you got less than five correct, nice try!
B. 10-20 B. Beet powder B. Organic and inorganic -5 Try to challenge your lab mates with some of the questions and see how
C. 20-30 C. Cochineal extract C. Synthetic and natural they fare.
D. 30 plus D. Zinc oxide D. Metal and mineral
If you got between five and seven correct, well done!
5-7
You seem to be really in the loop when it comes to making make-up.

Answer Key:
If you got more than eight correct, congratulations!
+8 You are one true cosmetics science master. Keep checking for new issues of
“COSMETICS LAB” to stay updated and keep your spot at the top.

16 17
 SCORPIO
Be bold.
Experiment with new colors in your
closet, new foods in the kitchen or
new scents on your skin.
Cosmetics creation challenge: Silky
skin lotion
ARIES
Go out and party but stay away from red wine.
Everyone around you is clumsy this season and
stains are hard to get out.
Cosmetics creation challenge: Red lipstick
VIRGO
Drink lots of water. People are getting sick around
you, but you will stay healthy.
Cosmetic creation challenge: Spotless primer
CANCER
Make jokes but stay away from black humour.
Lots of people around you are in a sensitive mood.
Cosmetics creation challenge: Rosy blush
18
TAURUS
Try to read a good book. You might just find some
valuable advice that is applicable to your life right
now.
Cosmetics creation challenge: Blue eye shadow
GEMINI
Time for a change. New clothes, new hair, new
curtains, new bar to hit up in the evening?
Cosmetics creation challenge: Black, black mascara
LEO
Time for a new DIY project. Painting, hammering,
sawing?
Cosmetics creation challenge: Perfect foundation
AQUARIUS
Stay away from spicy dishes or exotic personali-
ties. You will not clash well this season.
Cosmetics creation challenge: Clear lip gloss
SAGITTARIUS
Cut yourself a break. Try sleeping in, leaving the
dishes in the sink overnight or letting the laundry
pile up for once
Cosmetics creation challenge: Hot pink nail polish
PISCES
Slow down. Do things once, do them right.
Cosmetics creation challenge: Super concealer
LIBRA
Try a new hobby. You might surprise yourself at
how good you are at pottery.
Cosmetics creation challenge: Brown lipliner
CAPRICORN
Dare yourself to do something out of your com-
fort zone. Talk to a complete stranger. Sign up for
a dancing course. Invite a new kid for a playdate
with your child.
Cosmetics creation challenge: Midnight black
eyeliner
Horoscopes that you really
shouldn’t take too seriously
19
 Readers’ Spot!
Finished with the magazine and got something
you want to share with us? Get in touch and send
us any questions or comments regarding cosmetic
science: marketing@buchi.com
We will personally answer your inquiries and the
most inspiring feedback will be published in one of
our upcoming issues.
20
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https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics3040036.
Burger, P.; Monchot, A.; Bagarri, O.; Chiffolleau, P.; Azoulay, S.; Fernandez, X.; Michel, T. Whitening
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21
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