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Standards of Beauty: The Impact of

Mannequins in the Retail Context

JENNIFER J. ARGO
DARREN W. DAHL

Across six studies, a female mannequin is demonstrated to have negative implica-


tions for both male and female consumers low in appearance self-esteem. In par-
ticular, consumers who are lower in appearance self-esteem evaluate a product
displayed by a mannequin more negatively as compared with consumers higher in
appearance self-esteem. As mannequins signal the normative standard of beauty
and consumers with low self-esteem in regard to their appearance believe they fail
to meet this standard, these consumers become threatened by the beauty stan-
dard when exposed to a mannequin and in response denigrate the product the
mannequin is displaying. We provide evidence for the underlying process in three
ways: 1) through the finding that the effect for male and female consumers with
low appearance self-esteem arises only when the mannequin is displaying an
appearance-related product, 2) through mediation analysis demonstrating that the
mannequin conveys society’s standard of beauty and that this negatively impacts
product evaluations, and 3) through mitigation of the effect by removing the pres-
ence of threat via a self-affirmation task or decreasing the mannequin’s beauty
(e.g., marking its face, removing its hair, or removing its head). Multiple avenues
for future research are forwarded.

Keywords: mannequins, global comparisons, retail

“T hey are the peddlers of perfection, the femmes of


fashion” (Tidy 2012, 1). With their long slim legs,
thin waists, and generous breasts, in fashion retail, female
perfection. For example, during the Depression when food
was scarce, mannequins appeared affluent and well fed
(i.e., fitting size 18 dresses). In contrast, today it is consid-
mannequins make salient society’s current normative stan- ered more attractive to be thinner and thus mannequins
dards of beauty. Indeed, the appearance of female manne- more commonly tout a size 4 or 6 figure (Tidy 2012).
quins has mirrored society’s current notion of feminine Although mannequins are prevalent in virtually every fash-
ion retailer, scant research has explored the implications of
this form of marketing stimuli.
Jennifer J. Argo (jennifer.argo@ualberta.ca) is Carthy Professor of
Marketing at the School of Business, University of Alberta, Edmonton,
The present research seeks to provide what we believe to
AB, T6G 2R6. Darren W. Dahl (darren.dahl@sauder.ubc.ca) is BC be the first academic investigation into the impact of fe-
Innovation Council Professor of Marketing at the Sauder School of male mannequins in the retail context. The substantive im-
Business, University of British Columbia, Vancouver, BC, V6T 1Z2. The plications of doing so are great, given that the global
authors would like to thank Sarah Moore, Virginia Weber, and the market- apparel industry is valued at $3 trillion (FashionUnited
ing group at the University of Colorado and Vanderbilt for comments on 2016), and it has been argued that mannequins are one of
earlier versions of this research. The financial support from the Social
the most prominent and powerful marketing tools used
Sciences and Humanities Research Council of Canada is gratefully ac-
knowledged. The authors would also like to extend a thank you to the
among successful clothing retailers worldwide (Weis
University of Alberta Bookstore and Laura Jamer for their assistance in 2006). Furthermore, we propose that because consumers
conducting the experiments. believe that mannequins represent what society deems as
physically attractive, mannequins will make salient the
Laura Peracchio served as editor and Rashmi Adaval served as associate
normative standards of beauty to which consumers will
editor for this article.
then compare themselves. Importantly, we argue that the
Advance Access publication June 3, 2017 comparisons seen here are made relative to the normative

C The Author 2017. Published by Oxford University Press on behalf of Journal of Consumer Research, Inc.
V
All rights reserved. For permissions, please e-mail: journals.permissions@oup.com  Vol. 0  2017
DOI: 10.1093/jcr/ucx072

1
2 JOURNAL OF CONSUMER RESEARCH

standards of beauty that the mannequin signals, rather than consumers low in appearance self-esteem. To achieve this
to the mannequin itself. Indeed, we demonstrate that the we explore two different moderators to better understand
normative information made accessible by the mannequin how self-threat operates in the context of mannequins.
signals global societal standards (related to beauty), as the First, using an established psychological procedure for
effects we identify are realized for both female and male demonstrating the presence of self-threat (i.e., a self-
consumers alike; thus, the generalized standards of beauty affirmation task; Steele 1988), we find that buttressing the
that the mannequin makes salient have a relatively broad self-worth of consumers with low appearance self-esteem
applicability. Our finding that the social comparison is oc- results in a more positive evaluation of the product associ-
curring at a global level departs from previous research, ated with the mannequin (study 2). Second, using substan-
which has focused on social comparisons occurring at the tive manipulations drawn from the retail environment, we
individual level (Dahl, Argo, and Morales 2012; Hamilton, vary the aesthetic appearance of the mannequin by decreas-
Mintz, and Kashubeck-West 2007). ing its beauty (i.e., the mannequin has her face marked
Our research also adds to the growing body of research [study 3a], is missing her hair [study 3a], or is headless
that has investigated differential reactions of consumers [study 3b]). We argue that conceptually, varying the
low in appearance self-esteem to social comparisons with appearance of a mannequin will decrease the level of
similar others (Dahl et al. 2012). Our research adds to this self-threat experienced by consumers with low appearance
work by demonstrating that consumers are also impacted self-esteem and, as a result, have a positive impact on sub-
by a novel type of source—an inanimate object. Indeed, al- sequent product evaluations. In sum, we show that manne-
though female mannequins are dissimilar from consumers quins make salient society’s normative standard of beauty
because they are not real (and from males because they are and establish through triangulating evidence that this stan-
the opposite gender), we find that they are capable of creat- dard presents a self-threat for consumers with low appear-
ing a global social threat through the normative informa- ance self-esteem.
tion they make salient and this can have a profound impact The current research provides insight about one of the
on individuals who are sensitive to appearance-related cues most commonly used, yet understudied, marketing tools
(i.e., those low in appearance self-esteem). In particular, found in the retail context. We demonstrate that an inani-
we argue that mannequins make accessible the normative mate object, such as a mannequin, can serve as normative
standard of beauty that poses a self-threat to consumers information of what society deems to be beautiful and
low in appearance self-esteem, and this in turn has negative therefore impacts a consumer’s experience in the retail en-
implications for those consumers’ product evaluations. vironment. In particular, this accessible beauty standard
In general, we find that the use of female mannequins as acts as a self-threat to consumers lower in appearance self-
a retail promotional tool is less effective for consumers esteem and in turn has a detrimental impact on their prod-
low in appearance self-esteem. Indeed, the primary objec- uct evaluations. As noted above, we find that our effects
tive of the first three studies (study 1a, 1b, and 1c) is to arise for both females and males exposed to a female man-
show that consumers who are lower in appearance self- nequin, providing strong evidence that consumers compare
esteem (as compared to those higher in appearance self- themselves to the normative standard of beauty that the
esteem) evaluate an appearance-related product displayed mannequin makes salient, rather than to the mannequin it-
by a mannequin less favorably. Study 1c also provides ini- self. In the next section we establish our conceptual frame-
tial evidence in support of our proposed underlying mecha- work by discussing research on societal norms.
nism using both mediation and moderation approaches. In
particular, using moderation we show that it is only when
the mannequin displays an appearance-related product that CONCEPTUAL BACKGROUND
exposure to the mannequin creates a self-threat for con-
sumers low in appearance self-esteem. Here, we argue that Social norms are shared belief systems about the rules
an appearance-related product displayed by the mannequin and expectations derived from society that guide behaviors
makes the normative standard of beauty accessible as it ac- (Cialdini and Trost 1998). They include the “customs, tra-
centuates appearance, whereas a non-appearance-related ditions, standards, rules, values, fashions, and all other cri-
product does not have this effect. Finally, mediation analy- teria of conduct which are standardized as a consequence
sis demonstrates that consumers lower in appearance of the contact of individuals” (Sherif 1936, 3). Failure to
self-esteem believe that mannequins displaying an comply with social norms can result in sanctions from so-
appearance-related product signal the normative standard of cial networks (e.g., disapproval from friends or family);
what society defines as beautiful, and that this belief influ- thus, it is not surprising that social norms have a strong im-
ences their evaluations of an appearance-related product. pact on one’s behavior (Cialdini and Trost 1998).
The remainder of this article seeks to provide additional Social norms are learned and developed through sociali-
evidence that mannequins make the normative standard of zation and environmental information. Indeed, a norm typi-
beauty salient and this in turn creates a self-threat to cally cannot influence behavior unless it is made salient by
ARGO AND DAHL 3

an environmental or situational cue (Berkowitz 1972; We further argue that these signals do not influence all
Cialdini, Kallgren, and Reno 1991; Schwartz 1977). The consumers equally. Specifically, we expect that consumers
number of social norms that direct and guide our behaviors who are vulnerable to appearance-related information (i.e.,
is vast, ranging from rules on an individual’s responsibility consumers low in appearance self-esteem) will be more
in maintaining a clean society (e.g., littering; Cialdini, susceptible to the effects we identify.
Reno, and Kallgren 1990) to expectations of behaviors dur-
ing interpersonal exchanges (e.g., norm of reciprocity;
Cialdini 1984) to the standards for what is valued with re- Appearance Self-Esteem
spect to personal characteristics (e.g., standards of beauty).
Appearance self-esteem denotes the self-worth one de-
In the current research we focus on the normative standard
rives from his/her body weight and image (Argo and White
of beauty that society cultivates through a variety of
2011). Past research finds that consumers who are low in
mechanisms.
appearance self-esteem respond negatively when presented
Indeed, there is a litany of mediums through which the
with attractive appearance-related information (Dahl et al.
normative standard of beauty is communicated to individ-
2012; Gulas and McKeage 2000; Jones 2002; Martin and
uals throughout society. Consumers are inundated with vi-
Kennedy 1993; Richins 1991). For example, Dahl et al.
suals of what society deems as beautiful through media and
(2012) find that consumers low in appearance self-esteem
entertainment (e.g., social media, television, movies) and
evaluate a target product less favorably when another at-
the fashion industry (e.g., magazines, fashion houses, the
tractive shopper is also wearing it as compared to con-
“catwalks”). It is through these communication channels
sumers high in appearance self-esteem.
that the standards of beauty are defined, evolved, and
Extending this into the current context, we expect that
brought to life (Banner 2006; Englis, Solomon, and
consumers low in appearance self-esteem will be nega-
Ashmore 1994; Solomon, Ashmore, and Longo 1992).
tively influenced by the normative information made sa-
These norms of beauty, once accepted, then influence and
lient through a perfect female mannequin. In particular,
shape consumption behaviors.
because consumers lower (as opposed to higher) in appear-
In the context we study, the medium that communicates
ance self-esteem do not feel that they themselves are beau-
the norms and standards of beauty is a mannequin.
tiful, they will perceive the mannequin, which signals the
Mannequins are three-dimensional dolls used to convey
standard of beauty, as a normative threat. It is important to
styles and show off clothing combinations in retail.
note that, unlike in previous research finding that social
Although the existence of mannequins dates back centuries
comparisons occur with the source of the social informa-
to when they appeared in the French and British Royal
tion, in the context of a mannequin (i.e., an inanimate ob-
Courts (Hale 1985), little research effort has been directed
ject) our position is that the mannequin itself is not the
toward studying them. Two exceptions include Sen, Block,
source of the threatening social comparison. Instead, we
and Chandran (2002), who studied window displays and
propose that the social threat arises from the normative sig-
suggested that stores might benefit if the body type of man-
nal of beauty that the mannequin makes salient. Thus, it is
nequins matches the store’s target market, and Poran
necessary for the product displayed by the mannequin to be
(2002), who found that mannequins are rated as more at-
linked to the notion of beauty for the global standard of
tractive by Caucasian females as compared to females
beauty to be accessible and threatening. Given this, we ex-
from other ethnicities.
pect that the normative threat will occur only when the
In the present research, we seek to build on these initial
products displayed by the mannequin are related to a
efforts by studying the impact of mannequins on con-
beauty signal (i.e., are appearance-related). In the case
sumers’ responses to the products the mannequins are dis-
where the products are not appearance-related, the norma-
playing. The basic premise that we forward is that
tive signal of beauty will not be salient and consumers
mannequins, although inanimate objects, serve as norma-
lower in appearance self-esteem will not be threatened.
tive signals of beauty that make salient a generalized stan-
Finally, because consumers have a fundamental need to
dard, and that consumers compare themselves to this
hold a positive self-view (Steele 1988; Tesser 1988), when
standard rather than the mannequin per se. Indeed, manne-
a mannequin makes the normative standard of beauty sa-
quins are designed to represent and communicate society’s
lient, consumers low in appearance self-esteem will seek to
current views on what constitutes the perfect physical ap-
restore their sense of self-worth. One way to achieve this in
pearance (Tidy 2012). Stated differently, mannequins sig-
the current context is to denigrate the product associated
nal the normative standards of beauty via the retail
with the symbol of beauty (i.e., the product the mannequin
merchandise they display. Importantly, we expect that the
is wearing). More formally:
generalized nature of the beauty signal provided by the
mannequin will apply to both male and female consumers. H1: Consumers lower in appearance self-esteem (vs. con-
That is, we expect the global nature of the signal to inspire sumers higher in appearance self-esteem) will evaluate a
comparison to the expressed standard from both genders. product less favorably when it is displayed by a mannequin.
4 JOURNAL OF CONSUMER RESEARCH

H2: Consumers lower in appearance self-esteem will evalu- STUDY 1A


ate an appearance-related product less favorably than a non-
appearance-related product when it is displayed by a Method
mannequin.
Participants and Design. In study 1a we measured ap-
H3: Consumers lower in appearance self-esteem will evalu-
pearance self-esteem and participants’ gender. Product
ate an appearance-related product less favorably when it is
evaluations were included as the key dependent variable.
displayed on a mannequin because the mannequin will
One hundred thirteen undergraduates from a large North
make salient a threatening normative standard of beauty.
American university completed the study in exchange for
course credit.
Current Studies Procedure. Participants were run in small groups and
Across five studies we empirically test the implications upon arrival were told that we were interested in their eval-
of a female mannequin on consumers’ evaluations of prod- uations of a target product. They were then taken over to a
ucts. In study 1a we test our basic effect that a mannequin display in which a female mannequin (see appendix A for
will differentially influence consumers’ evaluations of a image and specs) was wearing the target product—a bikini.
target product based on their appearance self-esteem (hy- Participants were asked to take a moment to examine the
pothesis 1). In study 1b we replicate our effect using a dif- product. Once they were done they were taken to a cubical
ferent product and a different mannequin, and include a to complete a short survey that included our focal depen-
control group (no mannequin) condition to demonstrate the dent variable. In the survey participants indicated the ex-
direction of the effect. In study 1c we demonstrate that our tent to which their overall impression of the bikini was
effect arises only when the product is associated with the negative/positive, undesirable/desirable, unfavorable/fa-
standard of beauty (i.e., the mannequin is displaying a vorable, and disliked/liked on seven-point scales. We aver-
product that is appearance-related; hypothesis 2). This aged these items together to create a product evaluation
study also provides initial evidence that mannequins dis- index (a ¼ .93). After answering questions that were con-
playing appearance-related products serve as threatening sistent with the cover story and items included for explor-
normative signals of society’s standards of beauty for con- atory purposes, participants indicated their gender and
sumers lower in appearance self-esteem (hypothesis 3). In completed an open-ended suspicion probe. Examination of
our remaining studies, we provide additional evidence that the suspicion probe indicated that participants were not
a mannequin signals normative beauty information that is aware of the experimental hypotheses. As this was also the
threatening to consumers low in appearance self-esteem. case in the subsequent studies, it is not discussed further.
We achieve this in two different ways. First, in study 2 we We assessed appearance self-esteem during mass testing
test whether self-affirmation can buttress consumers with that took place over the course of the semester and was
low appearance self-esteem by building a positive view of done online separately from the study sessions. We mea-
their self and in doing so alleviate the threat presented by sured the individual difference using six items on seven-
the mannequin. Second, in studies 3a and 3b we decrease point scales (1 ¼ strongly agree to 7 ¼ strongly disagree;
the mannequin’s ability to make salient the normative stan- Heatherton and Polivy 1991). The items included “I feel
dard of beauty (i.e., by marking the mannequin’s face or satisfied with the way my body looks right now,” “I feel
removing its hair [study 3a] or by removing the manne- good about myself,” “I am pleased with my appearance
quin’s head [study 3b]). right now,” “I feel that others respect and admire me,” “I
Of critical importance, in five of our studies we test our am dissatisfied with my weight,” (reverse-scored) and “I
predictions across both genders. Including both male and feel unattractive” (reverse-scored). The items were aver-
female participants allows us to test whether consumers aged together and the appearance self-esteem index was
lower in appearance self-esteem are threatened by the nor- mean-centered for analysis (a¼ .87).
mative standard of beauty made accessible by the manne-
quin, or instead by comparisons specific to the mannequin Results
itself. Support for our theorizing would be realized if both
Three participants were removed from the analyses, as
genders respond similarly to the threatening information
two did not indicate their gender and the third did not com-
make salient by the mannequin, whereas if the latter is true
plete the online appearance self-esteem scale. Thus, the fi-
(i.e., consumers compare to the mannequin directly), then
nal sample consisted of 110 participants (females ¼ 62,
only females would be susceptible to this information. The
males ¼ 48).
data cleaning rules that were applied across all of the stud-
ies included failure to complete the focal measures (i.e., Product Evaluation Index. To test hypothesis 1 we
IVs, DVs) and if responses to the dependent variables devi- conducted linear regression analysis that included the con-
ated more than three standard deviations from the respec- tinuous mean-centered index for appearance self-esteem,
tive mean. gender, and their interaction term as predictors of the
ARGO AND DAHL 5

product evaluation index. Results of the analysis revealed FIGURE 1


only a significant effect of appearance self-esteem (b ¼
.275, t(109) ¼ 2.92, p < .01, partial g2 ¼ .075); consumers IMPACT OF APPEARANCE SELF-ESTEEM (ASE) AND
MANNEQUIN ON PRODUCT EVALUATIONS
lower in appearance self-esteem evaluated a product worn
by a mannequin less favorably than consumers higher in 7 mannequin
appearance self-esteem. As gender did not significantly
control
predict our focal DV as a simple effect or included in an in- 6
teraction term in either this study (ps > .20) or any of the
remaining studies that included both genders, it is not dis- 5
cussed further.
4

Discussion 3

Study 1a provides initial evidence that consumers evalu-


2
ate a product worn by a mannequin differently depending
on their appearance self-esteem. Specifically, consumers 1
lower (vs. higher) in appearance self-esteem evaluated the low ASE (–1SD) high ASE (+1SD)
target product less favorably when it was displayed on the
mannequin. Importantly, gender did not produce any sig-
nificant effects, lending support to our theorizing that con-
sumers do not compare directly to the mannequin, but study 1a, while in the absent condition the product was
rather are influenced by the normative signal that the man- pinned onto a display wall. Appearance self-esteem was
nequin makes salient. Indeed, it is the global standard of again assessed during mass testing that took place over the
beauty signaled by the mannequin that consumers appear course of the semester and was done online separately
to be both comparing to and impacted by. from the study sessions (a¼ .89).
In study 1b we seek to replicate our effects using a dif-
ferent target product and a new mannequin. In addition,
this study includes a control group wherein the product Results
does not appear on a mannequin—rather, it appears on a Four participants were removed from the analyses, as
wall—to confirm that the negative product evaluations re- they did not complete the online appearance self-esteem
ported by consumers lower (vs. higher) in appearance self- scale. Thus, the final sample consisted of 193 participants
esteem arise due to the presence of the mannequin, rather (females ¼ 91, males ¼ 102).
than simply a negative evaluation of apparel.
Product Evaluation Index. Linear regression analysis
STUDY 1B that included the continuous mean-centered index for ap-
pearance self-esteem, mannequin, and their interaction
Method term as predictors of the product evaluation index revealed
Participants and Design. Study 1b used a 2 (manne- significant effects of both appearance self-esteem (b ¼
quin: present vs. absent)  appearance self-esteem be- .161, t(192) ¼ 2.51, p < .05, partial g2 ¼ .032) and manne-
tween-subjects design with a product evaluation index quin (b ¼ –.166, t(192) ¼ 2.00, p < .05, partial g2 ¼ .021),
again included as the focal dependent variable (a ¼ .92). and more importantly a significant interaction (b ¼ .134,
One hundred ninety-seven undergraduates from a large t(192) ¼ 2.08, p < .05, partial g2 ¼ .022; see figure 1).
North American university completed the study in ex- Simple slope analysis compared product evaluations for
change for course credit. consumers lower and higher in appearance self-esteem
when the product was on the mannequin (present coded as
Procedure. A similar procedure to that described in 0, absent coded as 1). Results revealed that consumers
study 1a was used, with three notable differences. First, to lower in appearance self-esteem evaluated the product less
enhance generalizability we introduced a new target prod- favorably than consumers higher in appearance self-esteem
uct—a black cocktail dress. Second, we used a new manne- when the product was displayed on the mannequin (b ¼
quin to ensure that the results of study 1a were not related .322, t(192) ¼ 3.35, p < .01). No differences arose in prod-
to the specific mannequin (see appendix B for image and uct evaluations based on consumers’ appearance self-
specs). Third, to determine the direction of the manne- esteem when the product was not displayed on the manne-
quin’s impact on product evaluations, we introduced a con- quin (present coded as 1, absent coded as 0: b ¼ .030,
trol condition. In particular, in the present condition t(192) ¼ .29, p > .70). Regression lines were also plotted
participants viewed the product on the mannequin as in for one standard deviation above and one standard
6 JOURNAL OF CONSUMER RESEARCH

deviation below the mean for the mean-centered index of ap- FIGURE 2
pearance self-esteem (Aiken and West 1991; Preacher,
Curran, and Bauer 2006) and spotlight analysis was con- IMPACT OF APPEARANCE SELF-ESTEEM (ASE) AND
ducted. Spotlight analysis revealed that participants with low PRODUCT TYPE ON PRODUCT EVALUATIONS
appearance self-esteem evaluated the product significantly
less favorably when the product was displayed on the manne- 7 appearance-related
quin as compared to pinned to the wall (b ¼ –.34, t(191) ¼ non-appearance-related
2.89, p < .01). In contrast, participants with high appearance 6
self-esteem rated the product equally favorably regardless of
whether the product was displayed on the mannequin or not 5
(b ¼ .008, t(192) ¼ .06, p > .90).
4
Discussion
3
Study 1b replicates the initial finding that consumers eval-
uate a product worn by a mannequin differently depending on
their appearance self-esteem. Specifically, consumers lower 2
(as compared to higher) in appearance self-esteem evaluated
the target product less favorably when it was displayed on the 1
mannequin. In contrast, no differences in product evaluations low ASE (–1SD) high ASE (+1SD)
arose when the mannequin was not present.
In study 1c we seek to replicate our effects while provid-
ing initial insight into the underlying process. We achieve
this by first exploring the moderating role of product type umbrella in the non-appearance-related condition. Pretest re-
to demonstrate that the effect is realized only when the nor- sults indicated that a pashmina scarf influences how attractive
mative standard of beauty is made accessible (i.e., the man- a person looks to a greater extent (M ¼ 4.65) than does an
nequin displays an appearance-related product). Second, umbrella (M ¼ 2.63; t(47) ¼ 8.42, p < .001). Second, to pro-
using mediation we provide initial evidence that consumers vide mediation evidence for our underlying mechanism that
lower in appearance self-esteem perceive a mannequin dis- mannequins signal a normative signal of the standard of
playing an appearance-related product as a signal of soci- beauty, we included two items (“To what extent do you think
ety’s standard of beauty, and this drives their product the mannequin symbolizes the standard for beauty that soci-
evaluations. Finally, we also seek to rule out the possibility ety endorses?” and “To what extent do you think that the
that the presence of a female mannequin might affect fe- mannequin symbolizes the standard for the female body that
males and males via different processes. In particular, it is society endorses?”; standard of beauty index r ¼ .77).
possible that while females respond to a mannequin as pre- Finally, to determine whether a fear of rejection underlies our
viously theorized, when males who are low in appearance effects, we included a single item (“To what extent are you
self-esteem are presented with a normative standard of currently worried about being socially rejected?” 1¼ not at
beauty, it might increase their fear of rejection and this in all worried, 7 ¼ very worried).
turn leads to lower product evaluations.
Results
STUDY 1C We removed from the analysis one participant who did
Method not complete the online appearance self-esteem scale.
Thus, the final sample consisted of 126 participants (fe-
Participants and Design. Study 1c used a 2 (product males ¼ 54, males ¼ 72).
type: appearance-related vs. non-appearance-related)  ap-
pearance self-esteem between-subjects design with a prod- Product Evaluation Index. We conducted linear regres-
uct evaluation index included as the focal dependent sion analysis that included product type (appearance-re-
variable. One hundred twenty-seven undergraduates from a lated coded as 1, non-appearance-related coded as –1), the
large North American university completed the study in continuous mean-centered index for appearance self-
exchange for course credit. esteem, and their interaction term as predictors of the prod-
uct evaluation index. Results of the analysis revealed that
Procedure. A similar procedure to that described in the effect of appearance self-esteem was significant (b ¼
study 1a was used, with three notable differences. First, to .177, t(122) ¼ 2.04, p < .05, partial g2 ¼ .033), as was the
manipulate the product type, the mannequin displayed either two-way interaction (b ¼ .232, t(122) ¼ 2.69, p < .01, par-
a pashmina scarf in the appearance-related condition or an tial g2 ¼ .056; see figure 2). Simple slope analysis
ARGO AND DAHL 7

compared product evaluations for consumers lower and Discussion


higher in appearance self-esteem when the product was
Study 1c demonstrates that when the focal product is
appearance-related (appearance-related coded as 0, non-ap-
unrelated to appearance (i.e., an umbrella), the mannequin
pearance-related coded as 1). Results revealed that con-
no longer makes accessible threatening information about
sumers lower in appearance self-esteem evaluated the
the normative standard of beauty (i.e., consumers low in
product less favorably than consumers higher in appear-
appearance self-esteem did not evaluate the product more
ance self-esteem when the product was appearance-related
negatively). When the focal product is related to appear-
(b ¼ .411, t(122) ¼ 3.24, p < .01). No differences arose in
ance, we again find that it is evaluated less favorably for
product evaluations based on consumers’ appearance self-
consumers lower in appearance self-esteem as compared to
esteem when the product was non-appearance-related (ap-
their counterparts with higher appearance self-esteem. This
pearance-related coded as 1, non-appearance-related coded
study also provides initial evidence for our underlying pro-
as 0: b ¼ –.057, t(122) ¼ .48, p > .20). Regression lines
cess via mediation; when a mannequin displays an
were also plotted for one standard deviation above and
appearance-related product, consumers lower in appear-
one standard deviation below the mean for the mean-
ance self-esteem believe that the mannequin signals soci-
centered index of appearance self-esteem (Aiken and
ety’s current standard of beauty and this in turn leads to a
West 1991; Preacher et al. 2006) and spotlight analysis
decrease in their evaluations of the product.
was conducted. Spotlight analysis revealed that partici-
Studies 1a, 1b, and 1c taken together provide support for
pants with low appearance self-esteem evaluated the
the notion that a mannequin displaying an appearance-
product significantly less favorably when it was
related product makes accessible the normative standard of
appearance-related as compared to non-appearance-re-
beauty and thus consumers lower in appearance self-
lated (b ¼ –.429, t(122) ¼ 2.90, p < .01). In contrast, par-
esteem evaluate the product less favorably. While the first
ticipants with high appearance self-esteem rated the
studies indicate that making a normative standard of beauty
product equally favorably regardless of the type of prod-
salient decreases product evaluations for consumers lower
uct (b ¼ .142, t(122) ¼ .94, p > .20).
in appearance self-esteem, they do not explicitly provide
evidence that the information is a self-threat. In the remain-
ing three studies, we seek to provide evidence for the pres-
Mediation Analysis. We used bootstrapping with re-
ence of self-threat in two different ways. In study 2 we use
peated extraction of 10,000 samples to test our process
an established procedure to demonstrate the presence of
model (Hayes 2013, model 7). The mediation analysis in-
self-threat by buttressing the consumer’s self-worth (i.e., a
cluded the continuous appearance self-esteem measure
self-affirmation task; Steele 1988), while in studies 3a and
as the independent variable, product type as the moderator
3b we alleviate the threat by marring the mannequin’s
(–1 ¼ non-appearance-related, 1 ¼ appearance-related),
beauty.
the standard of beauty index as the mediator, and the prod-
uct evaluation index as the dependent variable. Results re-
vealed that the conditional indirect effect through the STUDY 2
standard of beauty index was significant only when the
product was appearance-related (b ¼ –.0544, SE ¼ .0372; To confirm that the normative standard that the manne-
CI: –.1572, –.005). When the product was non-appearance- quin makes salient is a threat to consumers lower in ap-
related, mediation did not exist (CI: –.116, .006). pearance self-esteem, in this study we test whether
The direct effect for appearance self-esteem  product affirming the self before being exposed to the mannequin
type on the product evaluation index remained significant will mitigate the negative effects found in our previous
(b ¼ .259, SE ¼ .109, CI: .042, .475). studies. Research finds that affirming the self prior to a
Linear regression analysis was also conducted that in- psychological threat protects the self against harmful out-
cluded the fear-of-rejection item as the dependent variable comes (Sherman, Nelson, and Steele 2000; Steele 1988).
and appearance self-esteem, product type, gender, and the Specifically, affirming the self in advance of the threat
two- and three-way interaction terms as predictors. Results may enable consumers to stabilize uncertainty with respect
revealed a significant effect only for appearance self- to their self-esteem (McGlone and Aronson 2006; Steele
esteem (b ¼ –.502, t(125) ¼ 3.53, p < .01) wherein those 1988). In our context, affirming consumers with low ap-
lower in appearance self-esteem were more concerned pearance self-esteem prior to the threat presented by the
about rejection than their counterparts with higher appear- beauty standards the mannequin makes accessible should
ance self-esteem. Further, mediation analysis revealed that enable them to protect themselves against this negative in-
fear about rejection did not underlie the effects as the con- formation. In sum, if consumers low in appearance self-
fidence interval contained zero (CI: –.097, .194). In sum, it esteem have a chance to self-affirm prior to being exposed
does not appear that concerns related to rejection underlie to a mannequin, they may show less propensity to deni-
our effects for male (or female) participants. grate the product the mannequin is displaying. Again, those
8 JOURNAL OF CONSUMER RESEARCH

consumers higher in appearance self-esteem should not be Results


threatened by the normative information conveyed by the
Three participants were removed from the analyses, as their
mannequin, and thus affirmation is unlikely to influence
responses indicated they were extreme outliers (i.e., the depen-
their evaluations of the product.
dent variable deviated more than three standard deviations
from the respective mean). Thus, the analysis presented below
is based on 82 participants (females ¼ 55, males ¼ 27).
Method
Product Evaluation Index. Linear regression analysis
Participants and Design. This study used a 2 (self-af- that included self-affirmation (yes affirmation coded as 1,
firmation: yes vs. no)  appearance self-esteem between- no affirmation coded as –1), a continuous mean-centered
subjects experimental design. In addition to the product appearance self-esteem variable, and their two-way inter-
evaluation index (a¼ .97), we also included willingness to action was conducted with the product evaluation index as
pay (WTP) as the focal dependent variables. WTP assessed the dependent variable. Results revealed a significant effect
the amount of money participants would be willing to pay for appearance self-esteem (b ¼ .485, t(78) ¼ 2.70, p <
for the product. In this study the target product was a black .01, partial g2 ¼ .086) and a significant two-way interac-
cotton dress. Eighty-five undergraduates from a large tion between appearance self-esteem and self-affirmation
North American university completed the study in ex- (b ¼ –.469, t(78) ¼ 2.61, p ¼ .01, partial g2 ¼ .08; see fig-
change for $10.00. ure 3A). Regression lines were plotted for one standard de-
viation above and one standard deviation below the mean
for the mean-centered index of appearance self-esteem,
Procedure. Upon arrival participants were told that and spotlight analysis was conducted. Consistent with our
they would complete a series of unrelated studies. They prediction, the analysis revealed that participants with low
were then given the self-affirmation manipulation follow- appearance self-esteem evaluated the product significantly
ing previous research (Cohen, Aronson, and Steele 2000). more favorably when they had previously been affirmed as
In both affirmation conditions, participants were given a compared to not affirmed (b ¼ .695, t(78) ¼ 2.66, p <
list of several traits and were asked to rank them based on .01). Those high in appearance self-esteem did not evaluate
how important each trait was to them. In the yes affirma- the product differently as a function of the affirmation ma-
tion condition, participants were then asked to select the nipulation (b ¼ –.278, t(78) ¼ 1.06, p > .20). Finally, sim-
trait they ranked as most important and to write about a ple slope analysis revealed that consumers lower in
time when the trait was important to them and why. In the appearance self-esteem evaluated the product more nega-
no affirmation condition, participants were asked to write tively than consumers higher in appearance self-esteem
about the trait they had ranked the lowest and to indicate when they were not first affirmed (yes affirmation coded as
why the trait might be important to someone else. Note
that beauty/attractiveness was not included among the
traits listed. Participants were then told that they would be FIGURE 3A
asked to evaluate a real storefront (i.e., a promotional dis-
IMPACT OF APPEARANCE SELF-ESTEEM (ASE) AND SELF-
play pertinent to a store’s merchandise). All participants AFFIRMATION ON PRODUCT EVALUATIONS
were exposed to a single storefront in which the mannequin
was situated. After spending a few moments examining the 7
storefront, participants completed questions pertaining to no affirmation
the cover story, the dependent variables, and appearance yes affirmation
6
self-esteem (a¼ .65). We measured WTP by asking partici-
pants how much they would be willing to pay for the focal
5
product. Given that a self-affirmation manipulation was
used in this study, we did not assess two of the items from
4
the appearance self-esteem scale that did not focus exclu-
sively on appearance (I feel good about myself, I feel
others respect and admire me) but rather may have also 3
tapped into more general self-esteem. Although the appear-
ance self-esteem scale was completed after the manipula- 2
tion, the affirmation factor did not predict any significant
variance in the appearance self-esteem scale (t(80) ¼ 1.07, 1
p > .20). As none of the manipulated factors appearing in low ASE (–1SD) high ASE (+1SD)
the remaining studies predicts the appearance self-esteem
scale, it is not discussed further as a dependent variable.
ARGO AND DAHL 9

FIGURE 3B a product worn by a mannequin arise from the self-threat


posed by the normative standards of beauty made salient
IMPACT OF APPEARANCE SELF-ESTEEM (ASE) AND SELF- by the mannequin. Indeed, alleviating this threat through
AFFIRMATION ON WTP an affirmation of the self mitigates these consumers’ nega-
tive responses. This mitigation provides additional process
25 evidence supporting our conceptualization by demonstrat-
no affirmation
yes affirmation ing that a threat indeed arises for individuals with low ap-
20 pearance self-esteem when they are exposed to a
mannequin. While study 2 focused on decreasing the threat
that arises from the mannequin’s normative information
15
through buttressing the consumer (via a self-affirmation
task), studies 3a and 3b seek to diminish the threat by mar-
10 ring the mannequin’s objective beauty.

5
STUDY 3A
0 Driven by substantive considerations we elected to di-
low ASE (–1SD) high ASE (+1SD)
minish the beauty of the mannequin in two ways observed
in the retail context we study. First, a mannequin’s beauty
can be reduced through visual changes to its attractiveness.
In fact, such changes are likely to be realized in a typical
0, no affirmation coded as 1; b ¼ .554, t(78) ¼ 3.68, p < retail environment over time. For example, physical dam-
.001). No differences arose for product evaluations as a age, markings, and lost parts are common consequences of
function of appearance self-esteem when consumers were typical wear and tear experienced by mannequins through
first affirmed (no affirmation coded as 1, yes affirmation continued usage in store displays. Thus, appearance flaws,
coded as 0; b ¼ .009, t(78) ¼ .065, p > .90). whether flaws of commission (e.g., marks or scratches) or
omission (e.g., missing or damaged parts), alter the manne-
WTP. Similar linear regression analysis, with the same quin’s ability to effectively convey society’s standard of
predictors and coding, was conducted with WTP as the de- beauty, and the threat this standard once presented will be
pendent variable. Again, results revealed a significant ef- mitigated.
fect for appearance self-esteem (b ¼ 2.33, t(78) ¼ 2.37, p Second, partial mannequins, which are incomplete by
< .05, partial g2 ¼ .067) and a significant two-way interac- design (e.g., headless, torso only, leg only), are also often
tion between appearance self-esteem and self-affirmation featured in the retail environment in an effort to highlight a
(b ¼ –2.03, t(78) ¼ 2.08, p < .05, partial g2 ¼.052; see specific type of product and as a cost-saving vehicle.
figure 3B). Consistent with participants’ product evalua- However, drawing from research on product design
tions, spotlight analysis revealed that participants with low (Hekkert 2006; Veryzer and Hutchinson 1998) and catego-
appearance self-esteem were willing to pay significantly rization (Barsalou 1983, 1985), we argue that a partial (i.e.,
less when they had not been affirmed as compared to incomplete) mannequin is less prototypical of the manne-
affirmed (b ¼ 3.89, t(78) ¼ 2.72, p < .01), while the WTP quin category and thus does not represent a fulsome exem-
of participants with high appearance self-esteem did not plar of the beauty standard. Indeed, a central theme in
differ regardless of whether they were first affirmed or categorization research is that categories are assumed to
not (b ¼ –.332, t(78) ¼ 0.23, p > .82). Finally, when have a graded structure (Barsalou 1983, 1985) and that
participants lower in appearance self-esteem were not consumers categorize based on how representative or typi-
self-affirmed, they were willing to pay less compared to cal an object is of its category. In the context of full-bodied
participants higher in appearance self-esteem (b ¼ .468, mannequins, it would thus follow that an incomplete man-
t(78) ¼ 3.08, p < .01); when participants self-esteem were nequin is deemed as less typical of the category and will
self-affirmed, the differences in WTP for participants with not be seen as threatening normative information about
low and high appearance self-esteem were mitigated (b ¼ beauty standards.
.032, t(78) ¼ .217, p > .80). In both of these cases, a consumer low in appearance
self-esteem is unlikely to feel a threat from a flawed or an
incomplete mannequin, as it no longer fully communicates
Discussion the normative standard of beauty, and that consumer would
Results of this study provide evidence that the negative no longer need to denigrate the product the mannequin is
reactions of consumers with low appearance self-esteem to displaying. In contrast, given that we do not expect the
10 JOURNAL OF CONSUMER RESEARCH

FIGURE 4A FIGURE 4B

IMPACT OF APPEARANCE SELF-ESTEEM (ASE) AND MISSING IMPACT OF APPEARANCE SELF-ESTEEM (ASE) AND FACIAL
HAIR VS. NO FLAW ON PRODUCT EVALUATIONS MARK VS. NO FLAW ON PRODUCT EVALUATIONS

7 no flaw 7 no flaw
missing hair facial mark
6 6

5
5

4
4
3
3
2
2
1
low ASE (–1SD) high ASE (+1SD)
1
low ASE (–1SD) high ASE (+1SD)

mannequin to be a threat to consumers high in appearance (WTP), and completed all of the appearance self-esteem
self-esteem, the presence of a flawed or incomplete manne- measures (a¼ .83).
quin should not influence these consumers. We focus on
marring a mannequin’s attractiveness in study 3a and using
an incomplete mannequin in study 3b.
Results
Product Evaluation Index. Linear regression analysis
Method that included a dummy-coded variable for missing hair
(missing hair coded as 1, others coded as 0), a dummy-
Participants and Design. This study used a 3 (nature of coded variable for facial mark (facial mark coded as 1,
the flaw: facial mark vs. missing hair vs. no flaw)  ap- others coded as 0), continuous mean-centered appearance
pearance self-esteem between-subjects experimental de- self-esteem, and the two-way interactions was conducted
sign. One hundred thirty-six undergraduates (males ¼ 73, with the product evaluation index as the dependent vari-
females ¼ 63) from a large North American university able. Results revealed a significant effect for appearance
completed the study in exchange for $10.00.1 self-esteem (b ¼ .646, t(130) ¼ 4.98, p < .001, partial g2
Procedure. Upon arrival participants were told that the ¼ .01), a significant two-way interaction between appear-
research involved the evaluation of three storefront dis- ance self-esteem and the missing hair dummy variable
plays. Two of the storefronts served as decoys and did not (b ¼ –.378, t(130) ¼ 3.50, p ¼ .001, partial g2 ¼ .09; see
contain any mannequins, while the third storefront con- figure 4A), and a significant two-way interaction between
tained our focal mannequin, which was wearing the target appearance self-esteem and the facial mark dummy vari-
product (i.e., a black cotton dress). To achieve the flaw ma- able (b ¼ –.426, t(130) ¼ 3.93, p < .001, partial g2 ¼ .11;
nipulation, the female mannequin had a black mark on her see figure 4B). No other effects were significant (ps >
face (facial mark), no wig (missing hair), or no flaws. After .20).
exposure to the storefronts, participants completed items Regression lines were plotted for one standard deviation
related to the cover story, evaluated the product using the above and one standard deviation below the mean for the
same items described in study 1a (a¼ .91), indicated the mean-centered index of appearance self-esteem. Spotlight
amount of money they were willing to pay for the product analysis was conducted to examine the significant two-way
interaction between appearance self-esteem and the miss-
1 Originally two additional cells were collected for this study (man- ing hair dummy variable. Results revealed that participants
nequins with missing limbs) but were not retained due to the lack of with low appearance self-esteem evaluated the product sig-
realism they conveyed (storefronts do not commonly have mannequins nificantly more favorably when the mannequin was miss-
missing one arm). Subsequent post-testing (n ¼ 40) validated that con-
sumers perceive this as an infrequently viewed style of mannequin
ing her hair as compared to when the mannequin did not
(frequency: 1 ¼ strongly disagree, 7 ¼ strongly agree, one-sample t- have a flaw (b ¼ .96, t(130) ¼ 2.77, p < .01).
test: M ¼ 3.03, t(39) ¼ 2.01, p ¼ .05). Interestingly, participants with high appearance self-
ARGO AND DAHL 11

esteem showed the opposite pattern. In particular, they their counterparts with higher appearance self-esteem when
evaluated the product less favorably when the mannequin the mannequin is not flawed.
was missing her hair versus when the mannequin was not
flawed (b ¼ –.80, t(130) ¼ 2.13, p < .05). Spotlight analy-
sis was also conducted to test the significant interaction be-
tween appearance self-esteem and the facial mark dummy STUDY 3B
variable. Again, participants with low appearance self-
esteem evaluated the product significantly more favorably
Method
when the mannequin had a facial mark as compared to Participants and Design. The study used a 2 (manne-
when she was not flawed (b ¼ 1.05, t(130) ¼ 2.81, p < quin completeness: complete vs. incomplete)  appear-
.01), while participants with high appearance self-esteem ance self-esteem between-subjects experimental design.
evaluated the product less favorably when the mannequin The product evaluation index and willingness to pay
was flawed (b ¼ –.93, t(130) ¼ 2.76, p < .01). Additional (WTP) again served as the dependent variables.
simple slope analyses were conducted to compare between Seventy-five female undergraduates from a large North
appearance self-esteem groups. Consistent with hypothesis American university completed a field study in exchange
1, results revealed that consumers with low appearance for $10.00. Given that participants were to be tasked
self-esteem evaluated the product less favorably as com- with trying on an article of clothing, we restricted the ex-
pared to those high in appearance self-esteem when the amination to females.
mannequin was not flawed (no flaw coded in both dummy
variables as 0, missing hair coded as 1, facial mark coded
as 1; b ¼ .65, t(130) ¼ 4.98, p < .001). No differences Procedure. Participants were run individually at a local
arose between the two groups of consumers when a flaw retail outlet. Upon arrival they were informed that we were
was present (ps > .40), as the threat posed by the manne- conducting marketing research for the outlet, and that they
quin was alleviated for consumers low in appearance self- would be required to go to different sections of the store
esteem. and complete one of a variety of tasks such as buying an
item, using a product, examining price levels, and so on.
WTP. Similar analysis was conducted for the WTP var- Participants then chose an envelope that contained the
iable. Results revealed a marginally significant effect for a shopping task they would perform. Unbeknownst to partic-
facial mark on the mannequin (b ¼ –.172, t(130) ¼ 1.73, p ipants, all of the envelopes described the same task—locate
< .09) wherein participants were willing to pay less when and try on a dress. In addition to the instructions about the
the mannequin had a mark on her face. No other effects task, we also provided a photo of the target product.
were significant (ps > .10). We discuss these null effects Participants were then instructed to visit the clothing sec-
in the General Discussion. tion where the product was located and find a salesperson
to assist them in completing the task (i.e., find the dress to
be tried on). Participants were told that after completing
Discussion the task they should return to the researcher to fill out a
The results of study 3a reveal that consumers low in ap- survey about their experience.
pearance self-esteem evaluate a product more negatively After participants left to complete their task, the re-
when it is worn by a mannequin with no flaws as compared searcher texted a confederate who was playing the role of a
to when the mannequin has some form of physical marring salesperson and was situated in the clothing section to in-
(i.e., a facial mark or missing hair). This provides converg- form her that the participant was on her way. Once the par-
ing evidence that the negative reaction of consumers with ticipant approached the salesperson and inquired about the
low appearance self-esteem to a mannequin arises due to product’s location, the salesperson directed her to the man-
the threat it presents by making salient the normative stan- nequin, which was located near the fitting room and wear-
dard of beauty. Indeed, the results demonstrate that subtle ing the target product. In the complete condition the
flaws rendering the mannequin no longer effective in sig- mannequin was the same one described in study 1b,
naling society’s standard of beauty can alleviate the threat whereas in the incomplete condition the mannequin was
of the mannequin and in turn the negative evaluations of headless. Importantly, the mannequins across conditions
the product. Further, the results for the consumers with were identical in terms of model number, pose, and product
high appearance self-esteem are also interesting, as it ap- appearance and differed only on the presence/absence of a
pears that they dislike subtle imperfections (as compared to head. The participant then tried on the product and returned
no imperfections). This finding presents a potential oppor- to the researcher for a survey that assessed product evalua-
tunity for future research. Finally, we again find support tions (a¼ .96), WTP, and appearance self-esteem (a¼ .82).
for our main prediction that consumers lower in appear- Additional questions that were consistent with the cover
ance self-esteem evaluate a product less favorably than story were also asked.
12 JOURNAL OF CONSUMER RESEARCH

FIGURE 5A FIGURE 5B

IMPACT OF APPEARANCE SELF-ESTEEM (ASE) AND IMPACT OF APPEARANCE SELF-ESTEEM (ASE) AND
MANNEQUIN COMPLETENESS ON PRODUCT EVALUATIONS MANNEQUIN COMPLETENESS ON WTP

7 25 complete
complete incomplete
6 incomplete
20

5
15
4
10
3

2 5

1 0
low ASE (–1SD) high ASE (+1SD) low ASE (–1SD) high ASE (+1SD)

Results self-esteem (b ¼ .549, t(71) ¼ 3.68, p < .001). When the


mannequin was incomplete (i.e., the threat posed by the
Product Evaluation Index. Linear regression analysis mannequin had been decreased), no differences arose in
that regressed the product evaluation index on mannequin product evaluations based on consumers’ appearance self-
completeness (complete coded as 1, incomplete coded as –1), esteem (incomplete coded as 0, complete coded as 1: b ¼
the continuous mean-centered index for appearance .128, t(71) ¼ .86, p > .30).
self-esteem, and their interaction term as predictors was
conducted. Results revealed that both the mannequin com-
pleteness effect (b ¼ –.363, t(71) ¼ 1.96, p ¼ .05, partial WTP. A second linear regression was conducted that
g2 ¼ .05) and the appearance self-esteem effect (b ¼ .868, used the same predictors and coding and included the
t(71) ¼ 3.21, p < .01, partial g2 ¼ .126) were significant. amount of money participants would pay for the product as
More importantly, the two-way interaction was also signif- the dependent variable. Results again revealed a significant
icant (b ¼ .539, t(71) ¼ 1.99, p ¼ .05, partial g2 ¼ .053; mannequin completeness effect (b ¼ –.189, t(71) ¼ 2.41, p
see figure 5A). Regression lines were plotted for one stan- < .05, partial g2 ¼ .076), appearance self-esteem effect (b
dard deviation above and one standard deviation below the ¼ .228, t(71) ¼ 2.00, p ¼ .05, partial g2 ¼ .053), and the
mean for the mean-centered index of appearance self- two-way interaction (b ¼ .241, t(71) ¼ 2.12, p < .05, par-
esteem. Results of spotlight analysis revealed that partici- tial g2 ¼ .059; see figure 5B). Spotlight analysis revealed
pants with low appearance self-esteem evaluated the prod- that participants low in appearance self-esteem indicated
uct significantly less favorably when the mannequin was they would pay significantly less money for the target
complete (i.e., the mannequin was full-bodied) versus in- product when the mannequin was complete as compared to
complete (i.e., mannequin was headless; b ¼ –.742, t(71) ¼ incomplete (b ¼ –3.59, t(71) ¼ 3.23, p < .01). No differ-
2.82, p < .01). In contrast, participants high in appearance ences occurred in the amount of money those participants
self-esteem did not differ in their evaluations of the product high in appearance self-esteem were willing to pay for the
regardless of whether the mannequin was complete or in- product as a function of the mannequin’s completeness
complete (b ¼ .002, t(71) ¼ .006, p > .90). (b ¼ –.252, t(71) ¼ .227, p > .80). Simple slope analysis
Simple slope analysis was also conducted to compare tested differences in appearance self-esteem based on the
consumers with low and high appearance self-esteem under mannequin’s completeness. As with product evaluations,
the different mannequin completeness conditions. Similar consumers low in appearance self-esteem were willing to
to the earlier studies, when the mannequin was complete pay less money than those higher in appearance self-
(complete coded as 0, incomplete coded as 1) consumers esteem when the mannequin was complete (b ¼ .444, t(71)
low in appearance self-esteem evaluated the product less ¼ 2.90, p < .01) but no more when the mannequin was in-
favorably than their counterparts with high appearance complete (b ¼ –.013, t(71) ¼ .084, p > .90).
ARGO AND DAHL 13

Discussion appearance self-esteem. Specifically, when a mannequin is


flawed or incomplete, consumers with low appearance
Study 3b finds that consumers low in appearance self-
self-esteem evaluate the product displayed by the manne-
esteem evaluate a product displayed by a mannequin less
quin more favorably. In sum, our findings indicate that
favorably and are willing to pay less for it when the man-
mannequins displaying appearance-related products make
nequin is complete (i.e., full-bodied) as compared to when
salient a normative standard of beauty that threatens con-
it is incomplete (i.e., headless). Further, replicating the pre-
sumers low in appearance self-esteem, resulting in lower
vious studies, in this study consumers low in appearance
evaluations and a decreased willingness to pay for products
self-esteem were less favorable to the product when the
displayed by these mannequins.
mannequin was complete than those consumers high in ap-
The findings of the present research are important for a
pearance self-esteem. This study provides additional evi-
number of reasons. Foremost, we demonstrate that the
dence that the negative response from consumers low in
presence of an inanimate object (i.e., a mannequin) in the
appearance self-esteem is due to a mannequin signaling
retail context can have a significant influence on con-
threatening normative information. When an incomplete
sumers’ responses. This is important to document, as man-
mannequin is present, consumers with low appearance
nequins are highly prevalent in the retail space. Indeed, a
self-esteem respond more favorably toward the product the
content analysis located at a local mall revealed that 23 out
mannequin is displaying.
of 42 stores in the mall had at least one mannequin, and
across these 23 stores there was a total of 665 mannequins
GENERAL DISCUSSION on display. Taking the frequency with which mannequins
are utilized together with the cost associated with manne-
Across six studies, the present research investigates the quins (i.e., cost of purchasing them as well as the retail
impact of female mannequins on consumers’ responses to- floor space they occupy that could have been devoted to
ward products. Results reveal that consumers who are other merchandise or marketing stimuli), it is clear that
lower (vs. higher) in appearance self-esteem evaluate an managers believe that mannequins are beneficial for busi-
appearance related product less favorably when it is dis- ness. Thus, our results are noteworthy in that they show
played by a mannequin. Further, the negative response re- that mannequins can be a double-edged sword, since in
alized for consumers low in appearance self-esteem arises some instances they can have a negative influence on
because when the mannequin displays an appearance- consumers.
related product, it makes salient the normative standard of The primary theoretical contribution is the documenta-
beauty, and this information threatens these consumers. tion that mannequins provide a global signal of society’s
Importantly, across our studies we show a null effect for standard of beauty and it is this normative information that
gender when both male and female consumers are exposed is threatening to consumers with low appearance self-es-
to the normative standard of beauty that the mannequin teem. Indeed, the finding that our effects arise for both fe-
conveys. The lack of gender difference indicates that male males and males (when a mannequin is female) provides
and female consumers compare themselves to the global strong evidence that consumers with low appearance self-
standard of beauty conveyed by the mannequin, rather than esteem are threatened by this global standard rather than
the mannequin itself. by information obtained through a direct comparison to the
Using a number of different approaches, our research ef- mannequin itself. Stated differently, in the context of man-
fectively establishes that this normative standard of beauty nequins the comparisons that arise do not operate at a spe-
(made accessible by the mannequin) is threatening to con- cific attribute level (e.g., “her thighs are smaller than
sumers with low appearance self-esteem. We provide ini- mine”), but rather at a more global level (e.g., “this is what
tial evidence for our underlying process via mediation in one should look like”). This result adds to a small body of
study 1c. In particular, we find that when a female manne- work arguing that people compare to targets that may ap-
quin displays an appearance-related product, consumers pear dissimilar on the surface (Stahan et al. 2006).
low in appearance self-esteem believe that the mannequin Furthermore, we extend social comparison theory
signals the normative standard of beauty and this decreases (Festinger 1954) by empirically demonstrating that in the
their product evaluations. In our subsequent studies, we absence of an ability to make a true social comparison (i.e.,
provide evidence that the normative standard is threatening the mannequin is an inanimate object), consumers will be
information via moderation. Indeed, in study 2 we use a impacted by society’s global beauty-related standards. Our
self-affirmation task and demonstrate that if the self is first findings seed future research that can explore the variance
buttressed against the threat, the negative response from in both the breadth (i.e., the level of specificity of the com-
consumers with low appearance self-esteem is mitigated. parison) and the form (i.e., mannequins but also other com-
In our remaining two studies, we demonstrate that decreas- munication tools such as store posters or in-store video)
ing the beauty of the mannequin by changing its aesthetic that can make salient threatening information to consumers
appearance mitigates the threat to consumers with low in the retail context.
14 JOURNAL OF CONSUMER RESEARCH

A second opportunity for future investigation lies in the mannequin more negatively than consumers higher in ap-
inconsistency found in our results in the WTP measure pearance self-esteem), female consumers did not have a
across studies. Our WTP measure in study 3a did not pro- differential response. This presents a great opportunity for
duce differential results for the presence of a flaw (vs. no future research, as it suggests it is possible that male man-
flaw) for consumers with low appearance self-esteem. nequins do not make salient a normative standard and in-
Recent research by White et al. (2016) has found that when stead are simply used as tools for social comparisons by
a package is damaged, consumers believe the product relevant consumers (i.e., other males).
within should be discounted. Extending this finding into In the current research we restricted our investigation
the current work suggests that it is possible that consumers to mannequins in North America. However, mannequins
respond to a flawed mannequin in a similar fashion as to a appear in retail globally, and interestingly many of the
damaged package; they believe the product displayed by mannequins in other cultures (e.g., China and India) ap-
the mannequin should be discounted. This is one post hoc pear Caucasian. This suggests that the idealized standard
interpretation, but future research needs to investigate the of Western beauty that mannequins convey may be uni-
nuances of the operationalization we have used to decrease versal. However, it is not clear whether consumers’ re-
the threatening normative signal conveyed by the manne- sponses to this standard are also universal. Indeed, not all
quin. Doing so will provide a more complete understanding cultures embrace body ideals from Western countries.
of consumers’ responses to various informational cues. Thus, future research could explore the implications of
Another avenue for future research lies in exploring North American beauty standards on consumers of differ-
other substantive questions centered on the types of man- ent ethnicities.
nequins appearing in the retail context. While the present Finally, in the current research we have focused specifi-
research utilizes a female mannequin that signals society’s cally on the impact of mannequins on consumer evalua-
normative standard of beauty (e.g., tall and slim), in the tions of the products they are displaying. However, there is
marketplace there are other types of mannequins present. a plethora of other directions that research can take to
For instance, in stores that sell plus-size clothing, larger study the influence of mannequins. For example, do man-
mannequins are used to display merchandise. Do these nequins influence what consumers buy? In other words, do
mannequins also pose a threat to consumers who are low in they inspire variety seeking, luxury purchases, or the pur-
appearance self-esteem? Are these types of mannequins chase or the avoidance of other beauty-related products?
potentially too far at the other extreme of the standard of As another example, mannequins are only one source of
beauty, and if so might they also lead to negative product appearance-related information—how do they compare (as
evaluations for certain consumers? What type of normative a source of information) to other marketing-controlled
information do these types of mannequins signal, if any? stimuli such as salespeople or models? These are but a few
How do standard mannequins and plus-size mannequins examples of the many directions that research can take to
compare to mannequins that are more modest in their pro- further explore the impact of the “femmes of fashion” on
portions (and more similar to the average female body)? consumer responses.
While Sen et al. (2002) recommend that retailers use man-
nequins that share a similar body type to the target con- DATA COLLECTION INFORMATION
sumer, it remains an empirical question as to how such a
marketing decision will affect consumers’ product The data for study 1a (fall 2014), study 1b (fall 2016),
evaluations. Similarly, in the male section of stores, male study 1c (winter 2015), study 2 (fall 2013), and study 3a
mannequins are used. Does a consumer low in appearance (winter 2011) were collected by a research assistant under
self-esteem have negative responses to male mannequins, the guidance of the first author at the University of Alberta
or is there something unique to the female archetype that School of Business. The data for study 3b (fall 2009) was
elicits a global response in this instance? In a preliminary collected by a research assistant under the guidance of the
study we find that while male consumers have a similar re- first author at the University of Alberta Bookstore with the
action to male mannequins (i.e., those low in appearance assistance of a staff member at the bookstore. All data
self-esteem evaluated a swimsuit worn by the male were analyzed by the first author.
ARGO AND DAHL 15

APPENDIX A APPENDIX B

MANNEQUIN USED IN STUDIES 1B, 1C, 2,


3A, AND 3B
MANNEQUIN USED IN STUDY 1A
Mannequin specs: size 6, bust 34", waist 24", hips 34",
Mannequin specs: size 6, bust 34", waist 25", hips 35", height 5’11", shoe 8.5
height 6’, shoe 9
16 JOURNAL OF CONSUMER RESEARCH

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