Duckling

About this Duckling

These little bundles of fluff are designed to be as realistic
as possible in their adorableness. Perfect spring and
Easter decorations, they also make cute nursery
decorations and toys in the right materials.
With this pattern you can make a mallard duckling – in
brown and yellow – or a single-color duckling (that might
grow up into a white duck).
Like all my patterns, I try to avoid niche materials or
yarns you might find it hard to find, so you can make
these little guys in widely-available, ordinary yarn, and
fluff them up with a simple trick I will show you.


Materials & Tools Size and Tension
For a duckling around 4 inches long you will need light The exact tension is not critical to success with this
worsted (Double Knitting, Category 3) weight yarn in project. As long as you work with a consistent tension,
approximately the following quantities: you will end up with a perfectly-proportioned duckling,
23yds of brown only the size may vary. It is more important to work to a
17yds of yellow/ochre tension that produces a nice, dense fabric, which will
or hold the stuffing firmly and not ‘gape’. Experiment with
your chosen yarn to find the best hook for you.
35yds of yellow/ochre
The pictures in this document show ducklings made with
You will also need light worsted (Double Knitting,
a 100% wool Category 3 yarn and a 3.5mm hook, ending
Category 3) weight yarn for the beak and feet (the feet
at approximately 4 inches long. There is nothing to stop
are optional). Choose dark grey or taupe for a mallard,
you making smaller or larger ducklings by using different
and orange or peach for a yellow duckling.
weight yarns with appropriate hooks.
1yd for the beak
Note that using the same yarn, you may find that a two-
3½yds for both feet
color duckling works up slightly larger than a singe-color
Finally you will need around 1yd of black yarn for the eye duckling, due to the fact you are working over the non-
detail. You could use light worsted weight, sport weight working yarn. The difference will only be very small
or even embroidery cotton for this. however.
See ‘Yarn Choice’ for more detail about choosing yarns. Whatever you end up using, don’t forget to write down
You will need a small amount stuffing material for your the hook and yarn combination that works for you!
duckling. See ‘Stuffing Choice’ for more details. You can use the area for notes overleaf.
You will need a 3.5mm crochet hook (US size E-4) or
the size you need to form a nice, fairly tight fabric with
your chosen yarn. About this Pattern
If you are not using a fluffy yarn and want a fluffy finish, This pattern uses US crochet conventions and imperial
you need a small piece of Velcro (hook and loop tape) measurements and prints on US Letter paper: a version with British
or else a pet grooming brush or other method to tease crochet conventions and metric measurements which prints on A4 is
also available.
out the surface of your crochet (see p13).
If you have any difficulties with this pattern, please contact me so I
You will also need a blunt-ended yarn or tapestry can help you and improve the pattern for others.
needle and some good sharp scissors. This pattern remains the copyright of Clare Trowbridge and Little
Conkers. Please do not reproduce all or any part of this pattern.
Please do not sell items made from this pattern, without express
prior permission (which is usually granted) and credit.
www.littleconkers.co.uk Last revised: August 2016

Little Conkers 1
 Yarn Choice Any queries? Please contact me at:
In choosing your main yarn for this project, first clare@littleconkers.co.uk
consider whether you want to achieve a fluffy finish.
This is optional, as if you intend your duckling to be a
baby toy, for example, it might be more appropriate to
work the whole duckling in a smooth cotton. My Notes
If you do want a fluffy finish, you can either choose a
yarn that is already fluffy – something containing
mohair or angora, for example – or else use a more
‘ordinary’ yarn and then fluff it up afterwards. I use the
latter method, and this has the advantage of giving you
a much wider range of yarns to choose from, and being
easier to work. Most pure wools will work very well,
and that is what I have used in the examples in this
pattern.
Whatever yarn you choose, it needs to be without
stretch and the denser the better (not too much ‘loft’
or squish) in order hold the shape of the finished
duckling.
For the eyes, beak and feet, you can choose a different
smoother yarn – certainly something not fluffy will
look better. Most pure cotton yarns will be suitable,
and since you only need a very small quantity of yarn,
you may well have something appropriate already at
home. You can even use embroidery cotton or darning
wool doubled-up for the eye detail if you have it, to
save buying something new.
Finally, depending on the life you intend your duckling
to lead, you will want to consider the washability or
otherwise of your chosen yarn.


Stuffing Choice
Don’t think that purchasing new, synthetic toy stuffing
is your only choice, there are many other options to
consider, especially if you prefer an ‘eco’ solution.
Clean, carded sheep’s wool is a perfect stuffing
material, and is what I always use. Only take care not
to pummel it when washing, which can make it felt
together and shrink. You can also purchase corn fiber,
kapok and cotton wool - the latter being very easy to
find of course.
Thrifty and perfectly adequate options include old
tights, and/or scraps of yarn and fabric from other
projects or worn-out clothes – these will give you a
weightier finished banana, which might well be the
result you want.

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Pattern Notes & Abbreviations Color Notes
This pattern uses US crochet terms (a UK version is also The pattern is based around a two-color mallard
available). duckling, so you will need to know how to change
The pattern uses the following stitches with their colors.
standard abbreviations: Change colors by completing the last yarn-over of the
sl st slip stitch stitch before in the new color. If you need a refresher in
sc single crochet working with colors, please see Working with Color
sc2tog single crochet decrease Changes at the end of this pattern.
hdc half double crochet The main yarn colors are abbreviated as follows:
dc double crochet B = brown
(The latter two stitches are only used in the feet which Y = yellow/ochre
are optional.)
In addition to the standard crochet abbreviations above, I
also like to use the following to reduce the wordiness of
the pattern for clarity:
inc single crochet increase
work two sc into the given stitch
Note that when counting stitches, an inc still counts as
two stitches.
In this pattern use the ordinary sc2tog method for
decreasing, as it is easier and quicker than the invisible
sc decrease method often used in amigurumi patterns
and the fluffy finish means the slightly more obvious
decrease will not show. If you are not making a fluffy
duckling, feel free to use the invisible decrease if you
prefer. (If you have no idea what I am talking about, don’t
worry and just ignore this)
The pattern uses the following other abbreviation:
st(s) stitch(es) Picture 1 - Mallard duckling (two-color version).
YO yarn over
FLO front loop only You can easily create a single-color duckling by omitting
all the color changes. The pattern is the same, but notes
Unless otherwise stated, work through both loops of any
are included where necessary if there’s anything you
given stitch.
need to bear in mind.
This pattern also contains the ‘magic’ adjustable ring
method of beginning working in the round. If you are not
familiar with this method, don’t panic! Its purpose is to
ensure there is no hole at the centre of a piece worked in
the round. I taught myself by looking at online tutorials
and there are many good quality internet videos
available, so do give it a try. However if you prefer, you
can work the following instead with good results: ch 2
and work 6 sc into second ch from hook.
Beginning overleaf you will find first a ‘tutorial-style’
detailed pattern with lots of photos and tips and then a
succinct version of the pattern without pictures. I have
developed this style because I find I like to see a lot of
detail the first time I work a pattern, but if I then work
the same piece again, I don't need the pictures, etc, and
indeed they can get in the way. This document is
structured so that the succinct version, with an area for
your own notes, can be printed on a single page, making
it easy to take with you for quick reference on the move – Picture 2 - Single-color duckling.
just print pages 18 & 19 back-to-back.

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The pattern – the detailed version In other words: Work 1sc into the first stitch, and 2sc into
the next stitch, *work 1sc into the next st and 2sc into the
Head next st**, repeat from * to ** four more times.
The Head is worked starting at the crown and working Round 4: Repeat (2sc, inc, 3sc) three times —21sc.
down to the neck.
Round 1: With B, work 6sc into an adjustable ring and
pull it tight.

Picture 5 - Round 4 completed. The scrap of yellow yarn marks

Picture 3 - Round 1 completed. the start of my round.

Do not join with a sl st, but continue to work in a spiral Round 5: Repeat (sc, inc, sc) seven times, in the following
without turning, marking the start of each round as you color pattern, working over the non-working yarn as you
go. go:
Round 2: Work 1inc in each sc around —12sc. with B work sc, inc, 2sc,
with Y work inc, 2sc, inc, sc,
with B work sc, inc, sc,
with Y work sc, inc, 2sc, inc,
with B work 2sc, inc, sc —28sc.
If you are making a single-color duckling, just work in
your main color, ignoring the color changes, in this round
and all subsequent rounds.

Picture 4 - Round 2 completed.

Round 3: Repeat (sc, inc) six times —18sc.

Picture 6 - First inc in Y completed in Round 5.

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 Round 6: Work 1sc in each stitch around, with the
following number of stitches in each color:
5B, 9Y, 1B, 9Y, 4B —28sc.
If you are working single-color duckling, mark the 15th
stitch (what would have been the 1B) with a scrap of
yarn, to mark the front of the head.

Picture 7 - First yellow section of Round 5 completed.

Picture 9 - Round 6 completed.

Round 7: Work 1sc in each stitch around, with the

following number of stitches in each color:
4B, 22Y, 2B.
Round 8: Work 1sc in each stitch around, with the
following number of stitches in each color:
3B, 24Y, 1B.

Picture 8 - Round 5 completed.

Note that I’m using a lighter brown here than I usually

would for this duckling, to make it easier for you to see the
stitches in the pictures.

Picture 10 - Round 8 completed.

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Round 9: With B work sc2tog, 1sc, with Y repeat (sc2tog,
1sc) eight times (one stitch remains), 1sc —19sts.

Picture 13 - Completed head.

Picture 11 - Round 9 completed - you need to change to B ready Stuff the head fairly firmly, keeping the Y tail free to use
for the start of Round 10. for sewing up.
The side where the brown yarn reaches the final row is the
Round 10: With B sc2tog, with Y 1sc, 4sc2tog, 1sc, back of the head. The opposite side where the brown forms
3sc2tog, sl st —11sts. a v-shape that doesn’t reach the final row is the front of the
head where the beak will go. In Picture 13 you are looking
at the back of the head (upside-down).

My Notes

Picture 12 - Round 10 completed and ready to fasten off.

Cut Y 8in from the hook pull the tail through the working
loop to secure. Cut B 4in from work.
With a blunt yarn needle, take the Y tail down under the
top of the next st (the first st in Round 10) to neaten the
edge.

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Body
The Body is worked starting at the chest and ending with
the tail.
Round 1: With Y, work 6sc into an adjustable ring and
pull it tight.
Do not join with a sl st, but continue to work in a spiral
without turning, marking the start of each round as you
go.
Round 2: Work 1inc in each sc around —12sc.

Picture 16 - Round 6 completed.

Round 7: With B work 5sc,

in the next st work 1sc with B and 1sc with Y (ie an inc,
with one stitch in each color),
with Y work 5sc, inc, 4sc,
with B work 1sc, inc, 5sc, inc —28sc.

Picture 14 - Round 2 completed.

Round 3: Repeat (sc, inc) six times —18sc.

Round 4: Work 1sc in each stitch around.
Round 5: Repeat (sc, inc, sc) six times —24sc.

Picture 17 - First inc of Round 7 completed with one stitch in each

color.

Don’t worry if the odd glimpse of the non-working color

shows through on the right side your work – it all adds to
the authentic featheriness of your duckling!
Picture 15 - Round 5 completed.

Round 6: Work 1sc in each stitch around, with the

following number of stitches in each color: 19Y, 5B.

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Round 8: Work 1sc in each stitch around, with the
following number of stitches in each color:
10B, 8Y, 10B.

Picture 20 - First 14sc of Round 12 completed.

Picture 18 - Round 8 completed. Now we will start decreasing towards the tail.
Round 13: With B work 8sc,
Round 9: With B work 6sc, inc, 5sc, with Y work 5sc, with with Y work 3sc,
B work 5sc, inc, 5sc —30sc. with B work 3sc, sc2tog, 7sc, sc2tog, 3sc,
Round 10: With B work inc, 13sc, with Y work 4sc, with with Y work 3sc,
B work 12sc —31sc. with B work 3sc —32sts.
If you are working a single-color duckling, mark the 19th
stitch of Round 13 (the 4th st of the central 7sc) with a
scrap of yarn, to show the middle of the bottom of the
duckling.

Picture 19 - Round 10 completed – from the opposite side,

showing the underside of the duckling.

Round 11: With B work 2sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 7sc,

Picture 21 - Round 13 completed.
with Y work 2sc,
with B work 7sc, inc, 5sc —34sc.
Round 14: With B work 1sc, sc2tog, 4sc,
Round 12: Work 1sc in each stitch around, with the with Y work 2sc,
following number of stitches in each color: with B work sc2tog, 16sc, sc2tog,
10B, 4Y, 11B, 4Y, 5B. with Y work 2sc,
with B work 1sc —29sts.

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Round 15: With B work 1sc, sc2tog, 3sc, Round 19: With B repeat (sc, sc2tog) twice,
repeat (sc2tog with Y, 3sc with B) twice, with Y work 3sc,
with B work 4sc, sc2tog, with B work 6sc,
with Y work 1sc, with Y work 3sc —16sts.
with B work 2sc, sc2tog, Round 20: With B work 4sc,
with Y work 1sc, with Y work 4sc,
with B work 1sc —24sts. with B work 1sc, sc2tog, 1sc,
with Y work 4sc —15sts.

Picture 22 - Round 15 completed.

Round 16: Work 1sc in each stitch around, with the

Picture 24 - Round 20 completed.
following number of stitches in each color:
9B, 2Y, 7B, 2Y, 4B.
Round 21: With B throughout work 2sc2tog, sc to end —
Round 17: With B throughout, repeat (sc, sc2tog, sc) six 13sts.
times —18sts.
Cut the Y yarn around 4in from the work.
Round 18: Work 1sc in each stitch around, with the
Stuff the Body lightly.
following number of stitches in each color:
6B, 2Y, 7B, 2Y, 1B. Round 22: With B work sc, repeat (sc2tog, 4sc) twice
—11sts.

Picture 23 - Round 18 completed. Picture 25 - Round 22 completed.

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Round 23: Repeat (sc2tog, sc) three times, sc2tog
—7sts.

Picture 28 - Finished body - top.

Picture 26 - Round 23 completed.

Cut B 4in from the hook pull the tail through the working
loop to secure.
Adjust the stuffing if necessary Don’t stuff too firmly –
aim to achieve a flat bottom, and the tail need only be
loosely stuffed. Refer to Pictures 28 to 30 for the shape to
achieve.
Thread the yarn tail on to a blunt yarn needle, and weave
it in through each of the remaining 7 sts. Draw gently
together to close the opening, secure and hide the yarn
tail inside the piece.

Picture 29 - Finished body - side.

Picture 27 - Tail end of body finished.

Picture 30 - Finished body - underside. If you are making a single-

color duckling the underside will be marked with a scrap of yarn.

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Beak Feet – make 2 (optional)
I have used a lighter-colored yarn for these photos, so you Foundation chain: Leaving a 8in yarn tail at the start,
can see the stitches more easily. For your ducklings, you make 6ch, sl st in the second ch from the hook.
will want to use dark grey or peach/orange. Row 1: Ch 3, sl st in second ch from hook, into the 4th ch
Round 1: With your beak yarn, work 4sc into an of the 6ch foundation chain, work 1hdc, continuing along
adjustable ring and pull it tight. the foundation chain work 1hdc, 1sc, sl st.
Do not join with a sl st, but continue to work in a spiral
without turning, marking the start of each round as you
go.
Round 2: Inc, 3sc —5sc.

Picture 33 – 3ch and sl st made at start of Row 1.

Picture 31 - Round 2 of beak completed.

Round 3: Work 1sc in each stitch around.

Round 4: Inc in the first st, then leave the rest of the
round unworked.

Picture 34 – Row 1 completed.

Before turning and working Row 2, we are going to make a

bobble which forms the ankle of the foot.
Ankle bobble: Ch 2, work a 4dc-bobble into the second
ch from the hook as follows:
Repeat (YO, insert hook into the given stitch, pull up a
loop, YO, pull through first two loops on hook) four times,
Picture 32 - Round 4 and beak completed. YO and pull through all 5 loops on hook.

Cut the yarn around 8in from the hook and pull it
through the working loop to secure.
Tuck the yarn tail from the beginning of the beak down
inside it – cut it shorter if it is quite long.

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Picture 35 – 4dc-bobble completed.

Row 2 [wrong side]: Turn, working in the FLO of the

four stitches of Row 1, sl st, sc, 2hdc, ch 2, sl st in second
ch from hook, hdc in same st as last hdc. Picture 37 – Taking the yarn tail up to the top of the foot, ready to
sew to body.

My Notes












Picture 36 – Row 2 completed (wrong side).

Cut the yarn 4in from the hook and pull through the
working loop to secure. Weave in this yarn tail.

Take the longer yarn tail from the start of the foot up

through the centre of the ankle bobble – this will be used
to attach the foot to the duckling’s body.

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Fluffing the Body and Head
If you want to fluff up your duckling, now is the easiest
time to do it, before the facial details are added. If you’re
not sure, you can continue and fluff it up at the end if you
prefer.
To create the fluffy finish, you need to ‘rough up’ the
yarn, starting at the tail end and working towards the
chest. You may have a suitable fine comb or brush (some
pet brushes work well) but the easiest thing you can
probably lay your hands on, and what I use, is a piece of
Velcro (hook and loop tape). You need just a small piece –
a couple of centimeters – of the spiky, hooky side.
Starting at the tail end, and always brushing towards the
tail, scrape the whole surface of the body until it reaches
a suitable level of fluffiness for your preference. The
amount of brushing you have to do, and how hard, will
depend very much on the yarn you are using - some
yarns will fluff much more easily than others.

Picture 39 - The head and body fluffed.

Creating the Eyes
First add the black stripe around the eyes by stitching a
straight line around the front half the circumference of
the head, in line with the bottom of the brown v-shape.

Picture 38 - The body piece having been fluffed.

Do the same with the duckling’s head, starting at the back

of the head, and working towards where the beak will be,
always brushing towards the back of the head.
If you are making a single-color duckling, make sure you
don’t dislodge your stitch markers whilst you are doing
this! They are both in areas where you don’t need to do
much fluffing, and you can always do more fluffing if
necessary once the markers have served their purpose Picture 40 - Stitching the stripe around the eyes.
and been removed.
I think of this as the duckling’s Zoro mask!
I’ll admit I absolutely hate this part! Even though I know
how cute the result will be, scraping my crochet like this
feels so wrong, when we all try to handle our yarn so
carefully. All I can say is you have to grit your teeth and go
for it!

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 If you are working a single-color duckling, the centre-
front of the head is where you left a stitch marker. Work
the eyes in line with and equidistant each side of this
mark, as show below.

Picture 41 - Black stripe completed, viewed from the front of the

head.

If you are making a single-color duckling, you may want

to omit this stripe altogether. Picture 43 - Stitching the left eye on a single-color duckling.
Now stitch the eyes on either side of the head.

Picture 42 - Duckling's left eye completed. Picture 44 - Eye placement on single-color duckling.

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please see:
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Attaching the Beak Sewing the Head to the Body
Stitch the beak to the centre front of the head, with the Sew the head to the body of the duckling using a blunt
last stitches made (the inc of Round 4) at the top. yarn needle and the tail of Y yarn left from the head.
Make sure you identify the top of the body using the
position of the markings. If you are making a single-color
duckling, use the marker you left in Round 13 to identify
the centre of the underside of the duckling.
Use the pictures in this document to guide you as to the
placement of the head.
You can add a little character to your duckling by having
the head slightly turned.

Picture 45 - Attaching the beak to centre front of head.

Picture 47 - Attaching head.

Picture 46 - Beak attached to head.

If you are working a single-color duckling, place the beak

over your stitch marker, mid way between the eyes.


If you have not already done so, you can fluff your
duckling now, as described on p13, or do more fluffing if
you like.
Picture 48 - Completed duckling, top view.

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Attaching the Feet (optional) In the pictures in the pattern above, I’ve used lighter brown
If you are adding feet to your duckling, attach them now than I usually would, to make the stitches as easy to see as
using their yarn tails, and then secure and hide the tails possible, and black for the beak and feet to show up the
inside the duckling. positioning more clearly, so this little chap is not as
handsome as he might be. The picture below shows him in
The feet on ducks are further back than you might think!
more realistic colors.
Use the pictures here or of real ducks to guide you.

Picture 49 - Placement of feet.

The End

Share pictures of your finished ducklings using

#LittleConkers
on Twitter, Facebook or Instagram
Picture 50 - Completed ducking.

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Variations
My Notes
If you’re making a nest full of little ducklings, it’s great to
make them all individual. You can do this by varying the
numbers of crochet stitches in each color in some of the
rounds, keeping the overall number of stitches the same.
However, even easier is – before you fluff up your
duckling – to add a few stitches of Y or of a different
brown on the brown areas of your duckling’s head or
body. It looks best if you keep the two sides of each
duckling symmetrical.

Picture 51 - Here I have added a few stitches of a lighter brown to

my duckling's body.

You can also add individuality by slightly varying the

angle and turn of the head on each duckling.

About this Pattern

This pattern uses US crochet conventions and imperial
measurements and prints on US Letter paper: a version with British
crochet conventions and metric measurements which prints on A4 is
also available.
If you have any difficulties with this pattern, please contact me so I
can help you and improve the pattern for others.
This pattern remains the copyright of Clare Trowbridge and Little
Conkers. Please do not reproduce all or any part of this pattern.
Please do not sell items made from this pattern, without express
prior permission (which is usually granted) and credit.
www.littleconkers.co.uk Last revised: August 2016

Little Conkers 17

The pattern – the succinct version Round 8: Work 1sc in each st around, with the following
number of sts in each color: 10B, 8Y, 10B.
If you are making a single-color duckling, work in your
Round 9: With B work 6sc, inc, 5sc, with Y work 5sc, with
main color, ignoring color changes, throughout.
B work 5sc, inc, 5sc —30sc.
Head Round 10: With B work inc, 13sc, with Y work 4sc, with
Round 1: With B, work 6sc into an adjustable ring and B work 12sc —31sc.
pull tight. Round 11: With B work 2sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 7sc,
Do not join but continue to work in a spiral without with Y work 2sc,
turning, marking the start of each round as you go. with B work 7sc, inc, 5sc —34sc.
Round 2: Work 1inc in each sc around —12sc. Round 12: Work 1sc in each st around, with the following
Round 3: Repeat (sc, inc) six times —18sc. number of sts in each color: 10B, 4Y, 11B, 4Y, 5B.
Round 4: Repeat (2sc, inc, 3sc) three times —21sc. Round 13: With B work 8sc,
with Y work 3sc,
Round 5: Repeat (sc, inc, sc) seven times, as follows:
with B work 3sc, sc2tog, 7sc, sc2tog, 3sc,
with B work sc, inc, 2sc,
with Y work 3sc,
with Y work inc, 2sc, inc, sc,
with B work 3sc —32sts.
with B work sc, inc, sc,
In a single-color duckling, mark 19th stitch.
with Y work sc, inc, 2sc, inc,
with B work 2sc, inc, sc —28sc. Round 14: With B work 1sc, sc2tog, 4sc,
with Y work 2sc,
Round 6: Work 1sc in each st around, with the following
with B work sc2tog, 16sc, sc2tog,
number of sts in each color: 5B, 9Y, 1B, 9Y, 4B —28sc.
with Y work 2sc,
In a single-color duckling, mark the 15th stitch.
with B work 1sc —29sts.
Round 7: Work 1sc in each st around, with the following
Round 15: With B work 1sc, sc2tog, 3sc,
number of sts in each color: 4B, 22Y, 2B.
repeat (sc2tog with Y, 3sc with B) twice,
Round 8: Work 1sc in each st around, with the following with B work 4sc, sc2tog,
number of sts in each color: 3B, 24Y, 1B. with Y work 1sc,
Round 9: With B work sc2tog, 1sc, with Y repeat (sc2tog, with B work 2sc, sc2tog,
1sc) eight times, 1sc —19sts. with Y work 1sc,
Round 10: With B sc2tog, with Y 1sc, 4sc2tog, 1sc, with B work 1sc —24sts.
3sc2tog, sl st —11sts. Round 16: Work 1sc in each st around, with the following
Cut Y 8in from the hook and fasten off. Cut B 4in from number of sts in each color: 9B, 2Y, 7B, 2Y, 4B.
work. Take the Y tail down under the top of the next st Round 17: With B, repeat (sc, sc2tog, sc) six times —18sts.
(first st in Round 10) to neaten the edge. Round 18: Work 1sc in each st around, with the following
Stuff the head fairly firmly, keeping the Y tail free. number of sts in each color: 6B, 2Y, 7B, 2Y, 1B.
Round 19: With B repeat (sc, sc2tog) twice,
Body with Y work 3sc,
with B work 6sc,
Round 1: With Y, work 6sc into an adjustable ring and with Y work 3sc —16sts.
pull it tight.
Round 20: With B work 4sc,
Do not join but continue to work in a spiral without with Y work 4sc,
turning, marking the start of each round as you go. with B work 1sc, sc2tog, 1sc,
Round 2: Work 1inc in each sc around —12sc. with Y work 4sc —15sts.
Round 3: Repeat (sc, inc) six times —18sc. Round 21: With B work 2sc2tog, sc to end —13sts.
Round 4: Work 1sc in each stitch around. Cut the Y yarn around 4in from the work.
Round 5: Repeat (sc, inc, sc) six times —24sc. Stuff the Body lightly.
Round 6: Work 1sc in each st around, with the following Round 22: With B work sc, repeat (sc2tog, 4sc) twice
number of sts in each color: 19Y, 5B. —11sts.
Round 7: With B work 5sc, Round 23: Repeat (sc2tog, sc) three times, sc2tog —7sts.
in the next st work 1sc with B and 1sc with Y, Cut B 4in from hook and fasten off.
with Y work 5sc, inc, 4sc,
with B work 1sc, inc, 5sc, inc —28sc. Adjust the stuffing if necessary. Weave the yarn tail
through the remaining 7 sts and draw the opening closed.
Secure and hide the yarn tail.
littleconkers.co.uk 18
Beak Attach the Feet (optional)
Round 1: With beak yarn, work 4sc into an adjustable Attach the feet using their yarn tails, and then secure and
ring and pull tight. hide the tails.
Do not join but continue to work in a spiral without
turning, marking the start of each round as you go.
Round 2: Inc, 3sc —5sc.
Round 3: 1sc in each st to end.
Round 4: Inc in the first st, then leave the rest of the
round unworked.
Cut yarn around 8in from the hook and fasten off.
Feet – make 2 (optional)
Foundation chain: Leaving a 8in yarn tail, make 6ch, sl
st in the second ch from the hook.
Row 1: Ch 3, sl st in second ch from hook, into the 4th ch
of the 6ch foundation chain, work 1hdc, continuing along
the foundation chain work 1hdc, 1sc, sl st.
Ankle bobble: Ch 2, work a 4dc-bobble into the second

ch from the hook as follows:
repeat (YO, insert hook into the given stitch, pull up a
loop, YO, pull through first two loops on hook) four times, My Notes
YO and pull through all 5 loops on hook.
Row 2 [wrong side]: Turn, in the FLO of the sts of
Row 1, sl st, sc, 2hdc, ch 2, sl st in second ch from hook,
hdc in same st as last hdc.
Cut the yarn 4in from the hook and fasten off. Weave in
this yarn tail. Take the longer yarn tail from the start of
the foot up through the centre of the ankle bobble – this
will be used to attach the foot to body.
Fluff the Body and Head
If necessary/wanted, fluff up the surface of the head and
body with a piece of Velcro or a fine brush or comb.
Eyes
Stitch the black stripe around the eyes in a straight line
around the front half the circumference of the head, in
line with the bottom of the brown v-shape, or either side
of your stitch marker if working a single-color duckling. If
you are making a single-color duckling, you may want to
omit the stripe altogether.
Stitch the eyes on either side of the head.
Attach the Beak About this Pattern
Stitch the beak to the centre front of the head, with the
This pattern uses US crochet conventions and imperial
last inc of Round 4 at the top. If you are working a single- measurements and prints on US Letter paper: a version with British
color duckling, place the beak over your stitch marker. crochet conventions and metric measurements which prints on A4 is
If you have not already done so, you can fluff your also available.
duckling now, or do more fluffing if you like. If you have any difficulties with this pattern, please contact me so I
can help you and improve the pattern for others.
Sew the Head to the Body This pattern remains the copyright of Clare Trowbridge and Little
Sew the head to the body of the duckling using the tail of Conkers. Please do not reproduce all or any part of this pattern.
Please do not sell items made from this pattern, without express
Y yarn. Use the markings on the body, or the marker you prior permission (which is usually granted) and credit.
placed in Round 13, to identify the top and bottom of
www.littleconkers.co.uk Last revised: August 2016
your duckling’s body.

Little Conkers 19

!Working!with!Color!Changes!

Neat!color!changes!are!simple!once!you!know!the!secret,!
which!is!that!you!must!complete!the!last!yarn6over!of!the!
stitch!before!the!first!stitch!of!the!new!color,!using!the!
new!color.!This!ensures!that!the!top!‘horseshoe’!of!the!
next!stitch!and!its!‘v6shaped’!base!are!in!the!new!color.!
In!some!circumstances,!as!indicated!by!your!pattern,!you!
should!carry!the!non6working!color!along!as!you!work,!
ready!to!change!back!again.!This!is!the!case!with!the!
duckling!pattern.!
Below!is!a!worked!example.!Let’s!imagine!you!need!to!
work!a!row!of!15!sc,!with!five!in!white,!five!in!red,!and!
five!in!white!again.!
In!Picture!1,!4!scs!have!been!worked,!and!the!5th!sc!has!
been!worked!as!far!as!the!last!yarn6over.!
!
Picture+3+

The!last!yarn6over!of!the!5th!red!stitch!is!completed!with!
the!white!yarn!(Picture!4).!

!
Picture+1+

Instead!of!working!the!yarn6over!in!white,!the!red!yarn!
is!looped!over!the!hook!and!pulled!through!to!complete!
the!5th!white!sc.!(Picture!2).! !
Picture+4+

Five!more!white!sc!are!completed!to!finish!the!row.!See!
how!there!are!clearly!five!red!stitches!made!up!of!their!
‘horseshoe’!tops!and!‘v6shaped’!bottoms!(Picture!5).!

!
Picture+2+

Now,!continue!as!usual!in!the!red!yarn,!but!the!non6
working!white!yarn!is!held!along!the!top!of!the!work,!so!
that!each!stitch!is!worked!around!it,!encapsulating!it! !
(Picture!3).! Picture+5+

littleconkers.co.uk 20
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