Wingnut Wings 528

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AIR MODELLER’S GUIDE TO
WINGNUT
WINGS VOLUME I
AIR MODELLER’S GUIDE TO WINGNUT WINGS VOLUME I
Wingnuts Special ammended_Layout 1 29/05/2013 15:50 Page 1
AIR MODELLER’S GUIDE TO
WINGNUT
WINGS VOLUME I
I think my pre-Wingnut Wings interest in World War One aircraft providing all the information you need to get the most out of your
models is best described by the fact that I had a 1:48 scale Eduard kit and meaning that you can do so knowing absolutely nothing
Albatros in my possession for over fifteen years without ever about World War One aircraft beforehand.
getting around to building it. The whole subject looked fascinating
and I was aware of the colourful schemes but with no knowledge I built the Wingnuts LVG C.VI when it was first released in 2009 and
about the subject it seemed like a steep learning curve that I never I was immediately converted and genuinely enjoyed the whole
got around to tackling - and those planes were just too small in experience. I know that many others have done the same and
1:48 scale! been hooked by the Wingnut Wings experience too. We have
brought together a collection of builds by other Wingnut devotees,
The arrival of Wingnut Wings changed all that overnight and it was and a hints and tips section to guide you through some of the less
immediately obvious that these kits were something different. 1:32 familiar aspects of World War One aircraft modelling which we
is the perfect scale for these aircraft and here were kits designed hope will inspire and assist you in your projects or tempt you to try
and engineered to the highest quality that are a real pleasure to the Wingnut Wings experience yourself.
assemble. The instruction booklets are a revolutionary concept,
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www.oldpropeller.com
HANSA
BRANDENBURG
Daniel Zamarbide Suarez
Originally the concept of the plane was

conceived in a night, although initially the
plane would have a biplane configuration, it
would eventually become a monoplane
design, a revolutionary concept during the First
World War and not normal at the time. With its wide
wing the monoplane had excellent gliding
characteristics and making it the first modern German
monoplane fighter.
This aircraft entered service as a substitute for the

W.12 model in maritime patrol duties in the cold waters
of the North Sea operating against British ships,
seaplanes or even submarines. The operating life of
the aircraft in combat was short as it entered service in
the last year of the war but continued in service in
other foreign Air Forces like Finland or Norway where it
remained in service until 1936 and demonstrates the
success of its design.
2
I will say to start that I have always only made aviation

models from between World War II to the present day,
but the new range of Wingnut Wings kits has made me
expand this scope and this peculiar German Seaplane
really caught my attention.
I remember opening the box and I immediately knew it

was at a great kit. The moulding of the plastic is
exquisite and the detail of the parts is of the very
highest quality, reaching levels of detail that other
famous manufacturers would want to copy. All this is
complemented by an excellent book of instructions
with reference pictures in their pages which makes it
unnecessary to seek further reference than the book
itself brings.
3
WOOD EFFECTS
As always, before beginning a model I always the other cockpit parts like the fuel tank, seats
study the instructions and consider how to and so on.
perform certain effects and something new to
me here are the required wood grain effects. To
this end, I took an old piece of a discarded
model started to practice various wood grain
COCKPIT ASSEMBLY
types and techniques, ranging from those made
When modelling the interior, I always like to add
with an airbrush, oil paints and even a crayon or
some more details than are provided with the kit.
a mixture of them all, to see the type of finish
Items such as instructional posters, notes and
and final tones. After about twenty tests I chose
other tools that could be useful to the crew are
one of these techniques and began to apply it to
very easy to make and once completed will
the interior parts.
provide life to the interiors of my models.
The first thing I did was to paint all those pieces
that have a wood finish and then moved on to
4
Instrument Panel Reverse
Instrument Panel Front
In this case I have upgraded the inside with a rolled up tarp, a

blanket and a kind of panel with some notes. There are other items
that require improvement, such as the control wheel of the aircraft
for example. Despite being supplied as photoetch, the best
solution is to wrap copper wire around the wheel for a better
finished look.
5
CABIN WALLS
Step One Start with a dark brown base colour. Step Two The central areas of the panels are lightened.
6 Step Three Woodgrain patterns are drawn on with a brown coloured pencil. Step Four Transparent orange is oversprayed to give a dark varnished look.
I must say that this model did not stop surprising

me at every step of its construction and the
accurate fit of all the parts. I was especially
impressed by the metal cross beam through the
cockpit and which serves to stiffen and hold the
angle of the wings which does exactly that and
really helps the modeller. The fit of the pieces the
cockpit is very good but be careful with some
parts which are fragile and can be a problem if
there are any breakages with the pieces glued
and painted.
7
FLOAT ASSEMBLY
With the cockpit assembled what I did next
is switch areas and focus on the floats. The
floats are mounted very easily and made
me question if I should glue them now or
paint the pieces separately and fit them
after painting. I chose the first option in
case there were any issues with the
assembly which would be easier to fit if the
parts were not already painted. The floats
are the only areas with rigging on the kit
which I added using copper wires.
PROPELLER
Step 1 Propeller ready to be
painted.
Step 2 Base Coat
Step 3 Masked
Step 4 Darker Shade sprayed
Step 5 The result after the masking

is removed.
Step 6 Grain effects added
Step 7 Red Overlay
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Step 8 Gold/Silver Detail Added.
Completed Propeller ready to be

connected to the engine.
8
WINGS
I continued with the assembly of
simple parts and in this case, I
focussed on the wings, which despite
being very large have an excellent fit
and they and the flight surfaces
required very little work.
ENGINE ASSEMBLY
The engine is one of the most important parts in this
type of aircraft as it was very common at this time for
the top of engine to be exposed. The engine is one of
the strengths of the kit since the level of detail is great
giving the modeller the option of mounting a basic
engine or an engine with more detail so each model can
be built based on your ability. As I say, the instruction
booklet is wonderful and the many photos bring a great
story with images of a real engine where you can see
the details. The wiring harness is made of thin lead wire
that conforms perfectly to the flexible cable on this type
of engine. To avoid damaging the engine during the
installation of these details I used plastic rod to create a 9
stand for it.
PAINTING & WEATHERING
FLOATS
At this point, with the main pieces blue-grey undersides. The lower areas a mission but were pulled up ramps and
assembled, I closed the fuselage and were subject to scratches from rubbing stored in hangars. The effects of
made good the joint lines, removing any with the surfaces of the docks where these watermarks on the floats were not over
traces of adhesive. Having found no aircraft were based. emphasised but black with some white
problems with the fit of all the components, These effects were created with both HB mixed in was used to add effects of some
I began the painting phase. and 2B graphite pencils, literally drawing on wear them to them.
the scuffs and scratches. These aircraft,
To do this I started with the floats, which from what I see in the photos, did not stay
are finished in two colours, black with anchored in the water after returning from
10
ENGINE PAINTING
With the floats finished, now I focussed on
the engine, applying a layer of metallic
colour, a very bright, Tamiya aluminium
very diluted. I applied a series of filters
and washes to give volume to the parts.
Obviously, there are other parts that are
painted with a brush, Vallejo and Humbrol
paints for me are the best choice for this
type of work.
As with parts of the cockpit after painting

the engine and its details it just had to be
put on one side ready to be fitted into the
fuselage and eventually have the exhausts
and the cowling panels fitted around it.
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WINGS
Back to the wings, and I started with the With all the ribs masked, I began to apply
Lozenge pattern decal placement. This is brown (Tamiya XF-10) and with the paint
the slowest stage of the model but also very diluted in alcohol to shade along the
very enjoyable as you see the pattern build rib tape detail. Then, with the base colour
as you apply these big decals. Always (XF-55) mixed with some White (XF-2) I
make sure that no air pockets remain by lightened the gaps between the ribs and
applying them from the middle out. above all along the leading edge in order to
give the feel and wear. This part also takes
Once the Lozenge pattern is applied and time and it depends if you like your aircraft
the huge German crosses I moved next to very weathered or not ... in my case, I like
the undersides of the wings. For this stage I to weather in proportion.
first applied a base coat of beige (Tamiya
XF-55) and then with tape, masked all the
ribs of the wing structure which will take
some time and also becomes very boring
but the end result is well worth it.
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The underside was varnished and I placed

the German national markings which must
align with those placed on the upper
surfaces of the wings. I repeated the
masking and weathering process on top of
the wing except at the end of the process,
where i sprayed a general thin layer of
XF-55 over the Lozenge pattern to simulate
the fabric wear after many hours of flight
over the salty sea.
As a point of interest and taking

into account the large area that
has wings I decided to add a
detail to show a repair patch on
the wings to combat damage
which would give more realism to
the wing and add further
personality to the aircraft. These
techniques are applied to other
moving surfaces of flight. 13
FUSELAGE
With the wings complete, what remains
now is the fuselage which is finished in two
colours. This was masked and I sprayed the
lighter colour on the undersides and when
dry the upper section was painted using
Tamiya XF-83. These grey colours are
perfect for wear and dirt effects. To do this I
started by mixing the base colour (XF-83)
with white and applying it over the upper /
spine of the fuselage. Similarly a dark grey
was used to spray the shadow areas and
panel lines. Once all this had dried all the
raised details like covers, frames, screws,
handles, and others were picked out in the
lighter grey tone with a brush. Finally, with a
pencil I outlined all the panel lines and
added some scuffs and chips to the paint.
With all this done I concluded with a layer
of varnish and placement of the lozenge
pattern on the fuselage and the German
decals and numbering.
14
Once all the big structures are finished the perfectly in line with the proper angle and
small details, like the propeller, wheels and perfectly parallel. I added the smaller
support stands with the same wood finish details like dials, compasses and some
painting as the interior of the cockpit are external instruments. Finally to finish off the
completed. The quality of the models is aircraft I began the fitting of the control
always shown in the small details that help wires for the flight control surfaces made of
the modeller as for example the guide jig thin copper wire.
piece provided by the kit for correct
alignment of the exhaust pipes so they are
15
Time for the weapons and although the kit

parts are of excellent quality, and supplied
with photoetched gun sleeves, I used the
Polish Master brand turned brass barrel
and sleeve sets. Superb quality with a
superb fit both between the turned parts
and plastic gun parts and they really
enhance the finished look of the guns.
Now with all parts completed I proceeded

to the final assembly of the aircraft,
carefully assembling the parts in the
following order. The first step is to complete
the entire fuselage, placing all the small
parts and the rudder with the
corresponding control wires.
Secondly, carefully fit the floats and rigging

wires to the fuselage, being careful not to
damage any of the parts.
Thirdly and as equally carefully, fit the wings

and fit the remaining small pieces and
install the propeller.
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17
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CONCLUSION
High quality kits always seem to leave you
wanting more! This kit is one that the
modeller cant help enjoying and after
completing this build I can say that it will
not be the last I will build. I'm stuck on the
Wingnuts website studying their catalogue
to see which to build next. It is certainly a
highly recommended model and once
completed, its size and design is a real
beauty to have in my collection.
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SE5 RAF
Richard Camoin
THE SCOUT EXPERIMENTAL NO. 5

OF THE ROYAL AIRCRAFT
FACTORY APPEARED IN THE
SKIES OF THE "GREAT WAR"
CURRENT IN APRIL 1917 IN THE
56TH SQUADRON ROYAL FLYING
CORPS.
Despite some mixed reviews due to some inherent
problems with new aircraft, the most striking being the
unreliability of the first engine. The SE5 was quickly
proven in combat combining the qualities of speed,
very good flight characteristics and an excellent firing
platform.
Powered initially by a Hispano-Suiza V8 150 hp 8a, it
was quickly replaced by a 200hp version of the same
engine (the 8BA) version called "Hisso", or an adapted
version of the English manufacturer Wolsley W4A called
"Viper ".
It will be one of the most successful fighters of the late
war, competing for the title of best fighter with the
Sopwith Camel. It was used long after the conflict by
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military and civilians.
Wingnut Wings boxes have everything to please the

modeller, even those who are not fans of 1:32 or the First
World War! The originality of the subject, packaging, the
box art, instructions and 3D CAD diagrams and the
construction accuracy. Carefully assembly will mean no
need for filler and the thorough instructions provide all the
required information even for a WW1 novice. Apart from
the use of the etched instruments that Eduard produce
that provide a real "plus" in the cockpit and the
photoetched rigging wires from RB Productions everything
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else is the "Made in Wingnuts"!
1 2 3
4 5 6
Photos 1-4 Inside the fuselage halves the created with oil colours over a Prince August light for the darker framework. The areas of canvas are
moulded on bracing wires are removed and yellow acrylic layer and then dragged with an old painted with the colour "Clear Doped Linen" from
ejector pin marks are filled by Mr Surfacer 500. brush to give a wood grain. the Mister Kit range. The bracing wires are redone
with thin tin wire cut to length and glued using
Photo 5 The seat receives a harness from the Photo 6: The wood tones of the fuselage used the super glue.
Eduard photoetched fret. The seat and harness same technique. I used Yellow Ocher mixed with
are painted with oil paint. The wooden parts pale Naples Yellow for light wood and Burnt Umber
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Photos 7-9: All components are glued into the

fuselage. The control cables are connected to the
rudder using fishing line.
Photo 10: The instrument panel is painted using

the same dragged oil colour technique.The dials
and the instruments are replaced with pre-painted
Eduard upgrade parts. Copper wire is used to
replace the fuel supply piping.
7 8
10
9 23
Photos 11-13 The fuselages halves are
11 12 assembled without worries, and we can then glue

the previously prepared lower wing. The
adjustment is a little tight possibly because of the
layers of paint but a splash of Mr Hobby liquid
adhesive makes positioning easier. Control cables
are then connected to the rudder, the latter being
previously drilled.
Photos 14-16: The whole instrument panel is

fitted into the fuselage and the cockpit is fully
kitted out.
Photos 17-18: The top of the cockpit is treated

the same as the rest of the interior and Eduard
photoetched levers are added.
13
15 16
14
24 17 18
Photos 19-21: The cabin struts are glued, and to

be sure of their positioning the upper wing is
positioned temporarily until the struts are
completely dry.
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20 21
25
22 23 24
Photos 22-23: The lower wing surface is Photo 24: The upper surface was primed the same as the lower surface.
primed white Tamiya XF (1) and then painted PC10 from Mister Kit was then applied, and the ribs were masked just like the
"Clear Doped Linen" from Mister Kit. The ribs underside and the ribs shaded with Tamiya NATO Black Tamiya XF-69 very
are masked with 0.5 mm tape. Very dilute XF diluted. PC-10 from Mister Kit lightened with Tamiya Dark Yellow XF-60 breaks
78 is sprayed at low pressure on each side of the consistency between the ribs. Roundels are applied after a coat of gloss
stencils. After removing the masking, the varnish. The shading operation is repeated for the ribs running over the
"Clear Doped Linen" is wafted over to reduce roundels using the dilute NATO Black. Matt varnish ends of the preparation of
the contrast. the upper wing.
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26 27
28
Photos 25-26: The painting of the PC-10 on the Photos 27-28: Mr. Hobby gloss ‘Topcoat’ is
fuselage and lower wing is the same as on the sprayed before and after the placement of the
upper wing. I wanted to differentiate the colour of decals. The decals need a little softening to
green used on the fabric to the green used on follow the contours of the model especially over
the metal parts, just to give some life to this the lacing. The scheme chosen is that of a "UK
rather dull colour. The PC10 colour of the canvas Training Unit Squadron" provided in the kit. The
is lightened with Tamiya Dark yellow and then decals are very well printed and performed
26 sprayed in the same manner as the base colour. perfectly.
Photos 29-30: The outer wheel covers are

matt white XF2 with dilute Tamiya Nato Black
to define the troughs between the spokes. A
waft of matt white then unifies the whole
finish. The tires are painted in three shades
sprayed successively Nato Black / Medium
Grey / Light Grey, creating a dark shading
around the inner rim. The inner covers are
finished in PC10 the same way as fuselage
and wings.
Photos 31: The rudder is sprayed in white

and masked in its central part to receive the
blue and red strips using Mister Kit colours.
Masking tape strips are positioned along the
ribs and then the very diluted black Nato
Black is used to shade just like the wings.
Photos 32-33: The engine is mounted as

advised in the instructions, with just the
addition of copper wire for the ignition system
because I intend to represent the aircraft
engine covers closed even though it's a
shame to enclose such a beautiful piece!
29 30
31
33
32 27
34 35
Photos 34-35: The leather cockpit padding and headrest are painted using Photos 36-37: A wash made with oil paints (Black and Burnt Umber +) is
oil paints. After 24-48 hours of drying time I returned with a very fine brush and applied into all the recesses and panel lines and allowed to dry for 24 hours.
painted the seams with Burnt Sienna. Mr Hobby matt varnish "Topcoat" is sprayed in several thin coats.
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37
28
38
Photos 38-40: The engine, cowlings and radiator Photos 41-42: The rigging wires on the SE5a are Calipers are used to measure the required size of
are installed into the fuselage, taking care not to special because they are flat-profile cables that the cables in order to cut the etched parts. This
damage the paint with a drip of glue! The stiffens the entire aircraft. RB Productions provide length is always a little longer than that measured
installation went relatively well, a small adjustment a choice of photoetched wires in different widths. so that it fits into the positioning holes without
had to be made at the junction of the radiator and They are rather easy to work with as long as they falling out and can then be fixed it with a drop of
the fuselage with PC10. The wheels are also are cut to the correct size! The positioning holes of CA glue.
installed at this stage of assembly without special the wing struts are surrounded with groups of
comment as they come together well. 0.4mm holes in which to seat the rigging cables.
39 40
41 42
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Photos 43-45: The struts are given a Citadel

white primer undercoat and some Prince August
yellow khaki. The wood grain is obtained using a
photoetched stencil from RB Productions. Tamiya
XF79 is sprayed through the stencil. Finally, a thick
wash of a mixture of transparent Gold Ocher and
Ocher Flesh oils is applied, allowed to dry for about
an hour, and then an old brush is used to lift off the
excess. The brackets are painted matt black and
the whole strut is sealed with a coat of Mr Hobby
matt varnish.
Photos 46-48: The completed struts are glued

onto the lower wing. The upper wing snaps easily
into the pins of the struts, and you can just gently
force any adjustment because the big pins hold
everything in place. A small drop of liquid glue will
fix everything in position.
43 44 45
47
46
48
30
Photos 50-51: The main work of

installation of the rigging cables is
done from this point. Try to avoid
coffee when rigging your model!
Final touches are the installation of
exhaust and propeller. The exhaust is
prepared with a primer of Tamiya XF1
matte black / light brown dusting of
XF79 followed by MIG pigment
powders using rusty tones, both light
and dark. The propeller is painted
using the same wood techniques
used for the cockpit and then the tips
were masked and sprayed in
Battleship Grey XF53.
49 50
CONCLUSION
This is a real treat! There is really
very little thats difficult to
overcome. The tricky part of course
being the flat photoetched rigging.
I'm seriously considering my next
Wingnuts project the hardest being
which model to choose!
31
ROLAND
D.IVA
Emmanuel Pernes
I MUST ADMIT THAT I'VE NEVER

BEEN A BIG FAN OF FIRST
WORLD WAR AVIATION!
I don’t know much about this period and I had never
thought about building a biplane kit for various
aesthetic and technical reasons. But when I saw
pictures of the first Wingnut Wings kits, the quality of
the moulding of these models changed my opinion. I
began, in spite of myself, thinking about trying my hand
at a World War One aircraft and the Roland is the kit
that I chose.
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33
Photo 1: One of the challenges I was interested in Photo 5: To vein the wood, a brush with stiff
about building a biplane of the First World War is bristles is used. The number of passes depends on
the reproduction of wood effects with realistic the desired effect, but again you must wipe the
painting techniques. I already had some ideas on brush between each pass.
the subject that I could apply in this build. First, I
undercoated the surface in a clear sand colour. Photos 6-7: The same techniques, simplified, are
used for the internal ribs and components. For
Photo 2: Then, using a tape mask, I shaded each them to be darker, just use a darker base colour.
plank with a darker sand colour. Planks can be fully
painted or have wood veins in the center or along Photos 8-9: To simulate the leather seat cushion, I
the strips. used the same techniques combining the use of
airbrush and oil painting. The preparatory work is
Photo 3: The same process is done with a lighter done with an airbrush. Oil painting Raw Umber is
sand colour. Once this preparatory work completed applied roughly on the cushion, then drybrushed
with the airbrush, you can go to work with extra with a clean soft brush. Consequently this colour is
fine oil paints and brushes. dark in the hollows, and cleaner airbrushed areas
are exposed on the high points.
Photo 4: I gently polished the surface with a soft
cloth for the brush to glide over the surface. A
mixture simulating wood colour is created from the
colours Burnt Umber, Sienna, Mars Yellow and
Cadmium Red. This was slightly diluted and the
mixture is applied with a soft brush. Another clean
soft brush is used to remove the excess moving in
the direction of the planks. Several passes are
made, wiping the brush clean between each pass.
1 2
3 4
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5 6
Photo 10: The engine, a splendid base is slightly

detailed thanks to the pictures in the Wingnut
Wings instructions. This is beautiful and contains
many photos of different parts of the engine to
improve or to understand the different parts of the
assembly.
Photo 11: To paint the dials of the dashboard so

neatly and safely, small masks are made with a
punch and die.
Photo 12: The harnesses are redone in a very

malleable lead foil to give them a more realistic
shape.
Photo 13: The foil allows the harness straps to be

posed in a natural way.
8 9 10
11 12 13 35
14 15
16 17
Photo 14: The mixture of wood, metal, grey/green Photo 16: The engine is complete, a real piece of
paint is very attractive. The cockpit of a WWI
aircraft is very simple, and Wingnut Wings has
jewellery. The instruction plates are provided on
the decal sheets. I added the wiring system based
18
perfectly rendered it. on the instruction booklet photos. Fortunately the
partly exposed engine will still be visible on the
Photo 15: All control cables are visible in the finished aircraft.
cockpit. Wingnut Wings provides clear instructions
in order to add them. Holes are made with a drill to Photos 17-18: The interior and engine are
strengthen the fixing of these control lines. complete and ready to be put in place. The level of
detail is very impressive. Only a few control cables
were added. Good painting is all that is required to
bring it to life.
36
19 20
21
Photo 19: The cockpit and engine assembly fits Photo 22: Strips are cut and placed next to each Photo 25: The challenge of this painting is to
perfectly into the fuselage. other. It is better to paint the surfaces for a better create the saw-tooth joints, highly visible on the
adhesion of the decals. They are soft and fine, but pictures of the real plane. For this, I made a
Photo 20: Nevertheless, some putty is needed to stick rather badly. special mask, cut with a sharp scalpel blade. It is
complete the joint. At this point, it is essential to moved to different parts of the fuselage.
protect the magnificent representation of the Photo 23: Half of the fuselage is natural wood on
wooden planks that make up the fuselage. the version I chose to do. The first step is to
undercoat surfaces in sand.
Photo 21: Applying the decals is one of the
laborious jobs of the build. It took me a total of 3 Photo 24: As on the inside, shading was made on
good evenings to finish the wings and fins. each strip to avoid too much uniformity.
22
23
24 25 37
Photo 26: A darker sand shade is airbrushed Photo 28: After three days of drying, some strips fuselage is painted using the German Imperial
along the masks. are reworked with Raw Umber to prevent too much colours (the Wingnut Wings instructions leaves the
uniformity in the tones of the planks. choice between black and red, archives images do
Photo 27: After applying the same extra fine oil not allow for a positive identification).
paint mixture that I used for the inside over the Photo 29: To reduce the ‘decal effect’ of the
exterior of the fuselage, the saw-tooth joints are lozenge pattern, very diluted dark brown and sand
still visible. filters were applied to the wings. The rest of the
26 27
29
38 28
30 31
32 33
Photo 30: The different metal panels are painted Photo 33: The exhaust is first painted in Tamiya XF
34 grey after the grain wood is totally dry, with circular

masks cut with a punch and die.
69 NATO black and rust pigments of various origin
are drybrushed on. Everything is fixed with MIG
pigment fixer.
Photo 31: I used a medium grey to make small
scuffs with a very thin brush or with a torn sponge Photo 34: Streaks and oil drips are simulated with
pad. a sepia India ink applied with a very thin brush.
Photo 32: On the wing underside, in line with the

wheel, mud splashes are added. To do this, dip a
brush into AK liquid pigments and use just the air
produced by an airbrush to splash paint on the
areas to be treated.
39
Photo 35: landing gear are copiously

weathered with CMK pigments. Tires, painted
here in XF 69 according to the instructions, 35 36
were repainted in RLM 75, a lighter grey.
Photo 36: WNW provides the machine guns

sleeves in plastic or in photoetched parts in the
box. I could not resist the temptation of Master
Models turned brass barrel sets which are
beautiful.
37
Photo 37: Once painted black and brushed Photo 39: Last technically intimidating section
with graphite powder, the machine guns are is the rigging. I chose the easy way, gluing
utterly realistic. lengths of fishing line slightly longer than
necessary, then it was tensioned using a
Photo 38: I was worried about fitting the upper controlled heat source. The turnbuckles are
wing which is always a concern with biplanes, made with a small drop of white glue.
Here, there is no problem, everything locates
perfectly! Quick and easy! Photo 40: Do not forget to weather the tail
plane and skid with earth pigments.
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38
40
40
41
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I really enjoyed my first excursion into the

world of biplanes. So thank you to Wingnut
Wings for offering us beautifully designed
models that allow both the novice and the
experienced modeller to make a
convincing replica of World War One
aircraft. Now, I hope that they will add
French aircraft to their list of future
projects, then they will be very close to
perfection, but then I am a little biased.
43
RE8
‘HARRY TATE’
Jose Maria Martinez Fernandez
DESIGNED TO REPLACE THE BE2

THE RE8 WENT ON TO BECOME
THE PRINCIPLE BRITISH
ARTILLERY SPOTTER FROM ITS
INTRODUCTION UNTIL THE END
OF THE WAR.
Although it performed reasonably well, it was never a
great fighter. However, the RE8 served as standard
British artillery spotter from mid-1917 until the end of
the war, There were over 4,000 RE8s which served in
most theaters, including Italy, Russia, Palestine and
Mesopotamia, and the Western Front.
44
IDEA & PLANNING

The first time I saw this aircraft announced
on the Wingnut Wing’s website I loved it,
and right away I knew I had to build it
immediately. I looked for information about
the plane, searching for a different scheme
to the typical overall green but I found only
green schemes. Typically I found a scheme
that is not green just after finishing the
model! Consequently, having resigned
myself to a green scheme I thought about
doing something different. Given the quality
of the interior of the model I decided it
would be good to expose the interior and
the engine. This coupled with the extremely
complex English rigging would make the
project a great challenge.
45
CONSTRUCTION PROCESS the stitched seams are very good and I had
to respect them as much as possible. With
interior structure. There is only one solution
which is to thicken the outer cockpit frames
The Cockpit the help of a Dremel tool I cut away much with the aid of a digital caliper. I had to
I chose to depart from the recommended of the fuselage sides, and refined this using create plastic strips that match these
assembly sequence in the instructions a blade. measurements, and once fitted they
since I would need to make several Once the work on the sides is complete I expanded the sides leaving the correct
adjustments. The first step was to prepare test the fit of the cockpit inside. I have to margin for the fabric sides.
and assembly the internal cockpit structure make small adjustments carefully because
of the model without glue. Then it's time to the lateral structures have been weakened,
open the sides, this operation is delicate and this throws up a small problem with the
because of the high level of detail on the kit, thickness of the sides in respect to the
46
Once I had everything sitting perfectly I I had to look at the smallest details of the the ends and a total length of 5mm, the
disassembled the pieces and proceeded to interior, and for the rudder bar located at cables are 0.16mm fishing line painted
paint the parts separately. I had to imitate the pilot’s feet I placed four plain brass steel and attached to the tensioner with the
wood grain on all the parts, not an easy tubes of 0.5mm, reworked the wiring on the aid of a brass tube caps 0.8mm along the
task on such small pieces. I did this with a instrument panel with 0.2mm lead wire fuselage structure. I had to put several
base of Tamiya XF-59, Burnt Sienna, and braided detailing and of course painted the grommets to hold the cables to the rudder.
Yellow Ochre oils applied over this and whole panel. To detail the rudder cables I The next step is the control column - the
dragged with the help of a sponge.The had to simulate the tension on the cables, gun trigger is attached via a cable, I
varnished finish was added with Tamiya taking them along the fuselage to the recreated this using 0.2mm lead wire long
X-24 and X-26, once the oils had dried. rudder. I made the fixings with 0.5mm enough in order to reach the machine gun.
brass tube with two loops of steel wire in
47
The fuel tank is designed to not be wheel so the 0.16mm wires were cables chafing, I made this with a 1.2mm
completely seen as the underside is hollow, connected from this directly to the rear. punch and 0.25mm plastic card painted in
so this part is completely rebuilt with brown.
0.25mm plastic card, I applied a steel On the side and bottom of the framework I
colour and diluted matt black wash to added a series of bracing wires with the Now for the seat, and the most important
detail, smoke, and finally a sepia wash. I corresponding tensioners, using 0.2mm improvement is hollow seat back with the
then added the cables and pipes from the steel wire and for turnbuckles 0.5mm brass help of a drill. I painted wicker with XF-59
instrument panel and oil tank to the engine. tube. At the intersections of these wires I and cushioned areas with XF-52 with
On the right hand side the pilot has a trim had to mimic the protection to prevent the highlights and shadows on the base colour.
48
The kit comes with photoetched

seatbelts which I found difficult, so I
decided to replace them with others
made from tin foil, to which I added
buckles from HGW.
I finished the interior painting of the
fuselage with XF-55 and the wood
techniques described previously.
49
The Fuselage
At first I thought of removing the fabric
sides completely, but removing and
having them disappear didn’t seem
appropriate. Instead I thought about
having them removed on a frame so I
made the panels with tin foil with the
help of a kitchen rolling pin, adding
plasticard parts and imitating the seams
with 0.3mm holes, once this was done I
had the idea of joining one of the two
sides to the fuselage structure and let it
hang loose, partly removed. It was easy
to attach the sheet of tin using CA glue
and then putty to blend the joint. The tin
was easy to handle and could easily be
naturally shaped to fall like real fabric.
50
Once the fuselage is closed and The tail has supports for the
set I added the seam details wires going to the elevators,
along the open panels. For this and I replaced the kit ones with
I used Plasticard 1.5mm wide scratchbuilt plasticard versions I
by 0.25mm thick, these strips completed the tail with 12 steel
drilled with a 0.3mm drill. rings for the later placement of
On the tail I added 0.5mm the dreaded rigging wires.
brass tubes for the control wires
coming from inside the
fuselage. 51
PAINTING
The fuselage and lower wing
I started by painting everything with Tamiya
XF-55, the base colour of the aircraft will be
XF-62, which I applied very diluted in an
irregular finish to give a faded look to the
paint. Further tonal changes were made
with XF-58 and XF-59, and the front of the
fuselage was painted with XF-53.
Wings
I started with the underside applying a base
of XF-55, before masking the rib tape
pattern with strips of masking tape. Each
side of the strips was shaded using XF-24
and then this was oversprayed with a dilute
waft of the base colour to mute the finished
look. This same masking procedure is
carried out on the undersides of both the
tail and the upper wing.
Although the roundels that are supplied

with the kit are excellent, I really prefer to
paint my own and it is not difficult to make
homemade masks for this with the help of
a compass cutter and masking tape or film.
I put the templates on the wing and painted
the colours before masking the rib tapes
and shading the upper surfaces, including
the markings, in the same way as the
undersides.
52
On the upper wing I first applied

XF-55, followed with a dilute layer of
XF-58, then finally a thin layer of
XF-62 with less emphasis on the
corners to simulate where the fabric
has more tension. The ribbing is
created using 1.5mm masking tape
with a mixture of 50% XF-62 and
XF-10, once the tape is removed the
whole thing is integrated with XF-62.
53
I carried out the same shading on The rudder, was painted like the
the ribs of the rear fuselage behind roundels and similarly shaded.
the cockpit. A brush painted wings, rudder decals are excellent,
aluminium coloured rim was added but I choose to paint them and
around the lip of the cockpit and the realize enhancement like wings.
Vickers MG is finished in black and
polished with powdered graphite. It
can then be installed on the side of
the fuselage and the fire control
cable connected.
54
ENGINE
I started by assembling the engine block made using 0.1mm aluminium wire. Oil leaks were painted with XF-9, and
and painting it aluminium followed by pigments were dusted over the engine to
overlaid thin coats of transparent blue and Once all the cylinders are fitted it is time to age the whole thing. Powdered graphite
brown and a Sienna brown oil wash, fit the engine into the fuselage, connect all was used to polish selected areas too and
finishing with black pigment. the cables from the engine inside the masking tape loops were used to tie the
aircraft, I had to fit the spark plug cables, cables together.
Once the inside manifold is mounted on the make some support rings to carry the spark
block it is time to mount the cylinders, plug cables the spark plug cables were
replacing the push rods with 0.4mm steel made with 0.2mm lead wire.
rod and it only remains to add valve springs
55
FINAL ASSEMBLY
I first painted the struts between the wings
using the same wood effects as used inside
the cockpit. Before assembling the wings I
added 0.2mm metal rings at each location of
the rigging wires, there are approximately
170 rings around the aircraft.
I had reached the hardest part of the model

and the successful execution of this rigging
stage is make or break for the whole model.
The British aircraft unlike the Germans, used
flat rigging wires which cannot be avoided in
this scale.
I came to the conclusion that I needed a
system that was similar to the rigging system
used by the Germans. I decided to glue
brass tube caps to the ends of my flat wires
and secure them using fishing line glued into
the brass caps. I tested my system and was
pleased to find it was successful.
56
Fitting the rigging

I fitted brass tube caps to each end of my
rigging wires and glued lengths of fishing
line into the caps. Small locking caps of
brass tube are slid onto the fishing lines.
The line is threaded through the pre fitted
steel wire loops in the wings and threaded
back up through the locking cap tube. The
line can then be tensioned and secured
with a drop of glue, the excess line
trimmed, and the ends painted black. The
same method is used to secure the other
end of the wire and correctly tension it. The
process is very slow and it took me at least
2 weeks to assemble all the rigging.
57
Control Cables The Propeller

The control cables are 0.16mm This was painted using the
fishing line painted steel, like same wood grain techniques
the internal control lines. I used and weathered with a Sepia
the same method with the wash and the ends of the
brass tube sleeves to tension propeller painted steel.
and secure the cables.
The Machine Gun Mount

I gave the same treatment as
with the front machine gun, to
the Observer’s mount. I added
solder wire to replicate the
bungee mechanism of the scarf
ring.
58
BASE
The 30cm by 40cm base is given a coat of
plaster and left to dry before fine sanding and
the panel lines are engraved with a ruler. I
painted it all in Tamiya XF-53 with light and
dark variations, and the lines picked out with a
Sienna and black oil wash mix. The edges of
the base are painted using matt black, and a
rack for the fabric panel made from plastic
sections.
I placed the aircraft by drilling holes in and

wiring up through the wheels. The exposed
cloth side of the aircraft is attached to the
model once the foil is shaped and a realistic
droop achieved. I also ended up placing the
engine cowlings on one side of the base.
Finally a piece of paper towel soaked in diluted

white glue is created to simulate an oil-soaked
cloth and placed on the aircraft, as if left by a
mechanic.
CONCLUSION
With all that rigging this was always going to
be a complicated model and my decision to
open up the sides of the fuselage only added
to this. The kit is excellent, and the challenges
taken on in this project have been enormous,
fortunately I think it all worked out well!
59
ALBATROS
D.Va
David Parker
60
CERTAINLY ONE OF THE FINEST

LOOKING AIRCRAFT OF THE ERA
WITH ITS STREAMLINED
FUSELAGE AND TAPERED
WINGS, AND LIKE ALL DESIGN
CLASSICS, IT CONTINUES TO
IMPRESS ALMOST A CENTURY
LATER.
It is hard not to be seduced by the elegant lines of the
Albatros and with two kits in the Wingnut Wings range
and a large choice of dedicated Wingnut Wings decal
sheets, there are plenty of potential subjects to choose
from. For me one of the challenges that attracted me
to build the Albatross is the glorious plywood fuselage
and its recreation in miniature. With the certainty of
flawless assembly I was free to focus entirely on getting
creative and enjoying myself!
GETTING STARTED
Straight on with the build and the cockpit like all the
Wingnut Wings kits assembles as a plug in tub and
with excellent detail it simply needs to be painted. With
all the different finishes on the interior it is best handled
as a series of smaller sub-assemblies that need to be
painted as you go and then brought together in a final
assembly.
61
COCKPIT
Mr Metal Colour Brass always provides
an ultra-realistic brass finish
The standard light grey is my own
mix based on Lifecolor RLM02 with
some pale grey to lighten it
Mr Metal Colour Copper

was used to pick out
this pipework.
The Pilot’s seat was airbrushed in a dark

brown base and then slightly lighter
shades were airbrushed in the centre of
the seat and along the raised edges.
The seat harnesses are provided in

photoetched brass and to help this sag
naturally across the seat I heated the
straps several times in a gas flame. The
fourth strap is not yet fitted as I wanted
to hang it out of the cockpit.
The interior wood was all painted using Lifecolor

acrylics. A pale sand base coat was airbrushed
and the plywood grain loosely brush painted in
a darker tone. I did not take too much care with
these patterns as they will not be very visible in
the finished cockpit. The contrast between the
two colours was also stronger than I would use
on the exterior to help the impression in the
dark interior. The ribs were finished in a similar
way using stronger ochre colours. When dry a
dark oil wash was used to define the ribs.
Alclad Aluminium looks too bright - in hindsight

I wish I had dulled it down slightly more. The
boxes were washed with dark brown oils.
62 I chose not to fit any control cables in the cockpit simply

because they are hardly visible in the completed cockpit.
Despite all the different ribs and bulkheads that make up the With the fuselage joined I decided to replace the engine inspection
interior the two halves of the fuselage came together perfectly. No ports and footstep surround with photoetched versions from HGW.
sanding or adjustment just a little tape to hold the bridge in front of The kit parts were carefully shaved off with a scalpel and the new
the cockpit whilst the glue dries and I had nothing to fill once it parts glued into position. The new ports give a more separate
had. appearance than the moulded versions and the underbelly covers
on the kit have a joint seam which the new versions eliminate. The
inspection ports have tiny etched locking rings but these would be
fitted later to prevent their accidental damage.
The engine cowlings are tacked into place and the exposed interior Here the black has been sprayed and the masking removed. There
parts are masked off before a base coat of white acrylic is applied are small areas where the black has crept under the masks but
to the fuselage. The nose was then masked in preparation for these were touched in with a brush.
63
spraying the black sections.
PLYWOOD FUSELAGE I prefer to brush paint the woodgrain

pattern on the unfinished parts of the
fuselage and I used Lifecolor UA 534
Desert Storm Sand as a base colour for
the wooden sections of the fuselage.
Slightly darker and lighter shades of the

base colour were used to brush paint the
wood grain working panel by panel. It is
important to vary the pattern and the
colours to create a realistic natural looking
pattern.
Once I was happy with the look of the

woodgrain I masked off certain panels and
airbrushed the panel edges with the darker
tone that I had used to paint the wood
grain using a fairly diluted transparent mix.
This both reduced the contrast of the
graining and helped to define the different
panels.
I used a mix of very dilute Tamiya

transparent yellow and orange to overspray
the entire wooden section for a varnished
look. With the excellent Pheon decals in
place I then brush painted the tiny nail
heads using a dark grey acrylic.
64
The nose panel lines were

shaded with different tones of
brown over the white areas
and grey over the black. The
panel lines on the wooden
areas were outlined in a dark
brown oil paint.
Oil and fluid stains were

brush painted running back
from the inspection covers
underneath the fuselage.
With the fuselage almost complete it was time to fit

the undercarriage. It is quite delicate so a little
respect is required when handling it. I decided to
give the wheel covers a worn look using the
hairspray technique. I sprayed a base coat of
Alclad Aluminium followed by a couple of coats of
hairspray. The top coat of white acrylic is then
applied and when warm water is applied it will
soften the hairspray and result in the great chipped
paint effect. I used the same technique on the
spinner. I also added oil stains to the undercarriage 65
aerofoil as it sits under the engine inspection ports.
The engine can be assembled straight from the box

and the only detail that really needs to be added are
the spark plug leads which I added with lead wire. The
crankcase was painted with Alclad Aluminium and
weathered with Lifecolor Tensocrom white oxide
followed by oil colours. Mr Metal Colour Brass is ideal
here for those details and Mr Metal Colour stainless
was used to pick out the bolt heads across the engine.
With the engine in position I fitted the

cowlings and then the twin Spandau
machine guns. Here I replaced the kit
barrels with the superb machined ABER
parts which also provide additional
details for the breech. The guns were
sprayed black and then finished with Mr
Metal Colour Dark Iron which can be
gently polished for a metallic sheen and
is perfect for finishing the guns.
The windscreen frame was finished in
aluminium and then the glazing was
66
stained and spattered with different oily
tones for a realistic used appearance.
It took me a couple of attempts to get a I drilled the rigging points on the lower I used oil colours streaked across the wings
purple and green mix that I was happy for wings right through the wings in to lighten the colours around the rib tapes
the topside colours on the wings and I used preparation for rigging the Albatros. as the first step in weathering the wings.
paper masks to separate the colours.
With the decals applied the rib tapes were masked off with strips of masking tape. The
wings were then shaded with transparent Tamiya Smoke which was sprayed over the
rib tapes and along the trailing edges of the wings. This was also applied to the
undersides of the wings too. On the tail a grey tone was used to define the rib tapes.
67
With the wings installed I was ready to start rigging and I used thin Once they were in position I added a drop of white glue or PVA over
nylon thread for this which a pre-painted a grey colour. Threads the joint for additional security.
were superglued into the locations on the undersides of the top
wings.
The rigging line is then passed through the holes in lower wings, Before the aftermarket turnbuckles were available I used Mr
pulled taught and then fixed with a dab of CA glue. Once dry the Surfacer to paint over the lines and build up the impression of the
68
excess is trimmed. tensioners.
Period pictures show the exhaust in a pale coloured metal so I To tarnish the pipes I used sponge to stipple masking fluid over
sprayed mine in Alclad aluminium with burnt metal and a hint of them before overspraying with Lifecolor Tensocrom White Oxide.
blue tones on the outlet pipes This dulls the finish as seen here.
Black pigments were used to add soot stains to the outlet which The completed exhaust is installed onto the kit.
was drilled out before painting began.
Mud splashes from the undercarriage were spattered onto the A pale dried mud colour was then airbrushed over the same areas
wheels and the wings using several tones of brown, to unify the finish.
69
The tail skid received the same treatment. The missing seatbelt was fitted and draped over the side of the
cockpit.
1 2 3
The progression of the painting of the propeller,

1 the initial colours are brush painted in two
contrasting shades. 2 Transparent orange and
yellow mix is oversprayed. 3 several layers of
varnish are applied.
The propeller is given a coat of varnish and then polished with a

70
fine pad between coats to improve the finish of the final varnish.
The completed propeller and spinner ready to be fitted. Final touches are the HGW photoetched engine cover latches
which are so delicate that they would probably be lost if fitted
earlier in the construction.
To more securely fix the control surfaces I drilled the mounting small dirt streaks from fittings on the fuselage complete the used
points and inserted brass rod pins between the two pieces. look.
71
72
SAFE LANDING
Looking back on the project it is impossible not to feel
pleased with the whole process. Building a Wingnut
Wings model is always a pleasure and the precision
engineered parts are so easy to assemble that there
simply are no problems to spoil the experience.
I am delighted that we now have a state of the art

model of this great looking fighter and with all those
colourful schemes to choose from I can see myself
making more Albatros in the future!
73
SOPWITH
PUP
John Korellis
i’d like to start by saying that if it wasn’t for my wife

Sasha, i wouldn’t have completed this model. My
preferred scale is 1:48 and WWII subjects - not 1:32
and definitely not WWI… still, when the Wingnut Wings
website went live and i was checking it out in utter
amazement at its quality, Sasha said “John, these are
wonderful models. I think you should build one!” well,
as a devoted husband i could do no less but act upon
her wish… 6 months later i was rewarded with a
wonderful artistic experience and a huge interest in
WWI subjects!
74
HELLENIC ACE
I decided to model a RNAS Sopwith Pup of
the “Z” Greek Squadron after reading the
exploits of Lt. Commander Aristides
Moraitinis, the Greek ace of WWI. His
audacious personality spearheaded the
creation of the Hellenic Naval Air Service
and helped it grow throughout the Great
War. On January 24th, 1913, he took part in
the world’s first aeronaval operation. Along
with Lt. Moutousis they flew their Maurice
Farman Hydroplane and reconnoitered the
Turkish naval base of Nagara.
As the war progressed he was transferred

to northern Aegean. On August 3rd, 1917,
while flying a Sopwith Pup he engaged two
German seaplanes. He shot down one and
drove the other away. Early on 1918, while
escorting bombers attacking the German
warship Goeben he engaged ten German
planes. He managed to shoot down three
while piloting a Sopwith Camel. For his
heroic actions the British Government
presented him with the DSO as well as his
own personal DH.9 aircraft.
75
AEGEAN PUP HISTORY in Imbros and it shows a couple of details

that could have been applied to other Pups.
Its propeller was different than the two
With the help of fellow modeller Pavlos
provided in the kit and it carried a Lewis
Tsekas and lots of research we managed to
and Vickers MG combo, clearly field
piece together a plausible depiction of
modified. A similar MG combo can be seen
Moraitinis’ Pup. Greece received four
on a Sopwith Triplane picture that operated
Sopwith Pups by the end of the war. Two
in northern Aegean. It seems that British
Sopwith built 9901 type (Ν6470, Ν6471) and
and Greek pilots were trying to augment
two Beardmore built 9901a type (Ν6432,
their planes’ firepower anyway they could!
Ν6433). The latter served with RNAS in
So, based on all of the above information I
northern Aegean. Pictures showing Pups
decided to depict Moraitinis’ Pup as a
operating in that theatre were painted
9901a Beardmore built, painted PC10 over
PC10 over CDL. There is one interesting
CDL with serial number N6433.
picture depicting a Beardmore 9901a Pup
GETTING STARTED
Wingnut Wings provides us with a very nice
model of the RNAS Pup straight out of the
box. As soon as you open it the quality is
clearly evident. Beautifully moulded parts,
great detail and easy assembly. As an initial
test run, I washed, cleaned and dry fitted all
parts with the help of some Tamiya tape.
Some pieces practically clicked together!
The dry fit stage revealed just a few minor
issues:
• The cockpit floor needed to be sanded
slightly as it was pushing against the
bottom wing and affecting the fit.
• Engine intake pipes not perfectly
connecting with cylinder heads. Added
plastic sheet disks (cut with punch & die
set) to extend the pipes' length.
• Pulley inspection panels (clear parts)
leave a small gap (from top/bottom not the
sides) when fitted in the respective holes.
Just added thin plastic strips to fill in the
gaps.
• Vickers MG not sitting perfectly (height
wise) on its stand inside cockpit. Adding a
76 thin plastic strip under the base of the MG

adjusted the height correctly.
CONSTRUCTION
After studying several pictures of the real
aircraft I decided to add a few detail items.
Spark plug wires were fashioned from thin
plastic round rods and added behind
engine. The same material was used to
create all the wiring of the internal cockpit
framing as well as the control wires running
from the rudder pedals and control column.
I added a couple of spokes behind the
wheel covers to show through the
inspection holes. Lead foil was cut into
small strips and added as straps on top of
the several Lewis MG drum magazines. As
I mentioned earlier a couple of
modifications were needed to recreate a
possible Greek service Pup - a different
propeller and an augmented armament
configuration. For the prop I chose to
modify kit part A14 by extending the
propeller’s tips with plastic sheet and then
sanding them to the appropriate curve
shape. The Vickers and Lewis MG combo
was created by removing the front leg of
the Lewis’ tripod then adding the Vickers
MG under it. 77
PAINTING EXPLORATION lighter. I even sprayed light filters of yellow

and blue to break up the green effect in
cover the raised frame detail of the dimpled
pattern. Next, Tamiya Flat Black XF-1 and
random spots. The basic idea is to avoid Brown X-9 were sprayed around the
As I was progressing with the build it was
uniformity of colour at all costs. The rib frames. After removing the masking strips I
clear that 1:32 scale was going to demand
tapes were sprayed with a diluted dark sprayed multiple filters of XF-55 along with
a much more detailed painting and
brown mixture. Then I masked around them yellow, white and even reddish tones until
weathering processes than my usual 1:48
and sprayed highly diluted white filter. This the lighter colour framing blended naturally
subjects. Obviously, these aircraft operated
created a subtle colour change and defined with the darker stained canvas dimples.
in a hot, humid and salt water laden climate
the rib tape look. Similar approach was Staining in the lower fuselage behind the
- elements that would be pretty detrimental
used for painting the lower wing surfaces engine was also heavy. I used a wide flat
to their appearance. Considering also the
and fuselage CDL with Tamiya’s Deck Tan brush with a diluted red brown mixture of
extensive castor oil staining from the rotary
XF-55. Another area for exploring Vallejo paints to depict long streaks of
engine I decided to aim for an
weathering techniques is the fuselage sides castor oil that dissipated by mid fuselage.
impressionistic view of colour application.
behind the engine. The internal cockpit To soften the heavily applied brush strokes I
For the upper wing surfaces and fuselage
framing creates a dimpled surface that sprayed various shades of XF-55. Final
PC10 I combined a base coat of Tamiya
gets very dirty and stained from the castor touch was applying a semi-gloss coat over
Olive Drab XF-62 with Khaki Drab XF-51. I
oil. Initially, I sprayed the entire area with the castor oil stains to create a greasy look.
78 didn’t spray all wing rib areas with similar
XF-55 then used strips of masking tape to
mixtures. Some are darker and others
ACRYLIC WOOD? them into the base colour. The latter also
becomes darker and livelier with the
multiple layer colour play. At this stage I
For wood painting I decided to avoid oil
start light sanding with 3200 Micro-Mesh
paints. All I used was Tamiya and Vallejo
cloth. The sanding process results in
acrylics. Wood painting starts by spraying a
partially removing colour layers and grain
light base coat colour like Tamiya Desert
lines and creating a more intricate wood
Yellow XF-59. Next step is to create the
colour mix and appearance. Once that’s
wood grain by painting thin wavy lines with
finished I repeated the wood grain and
a fine tip brush. I used Vallejo Mahogany
colour filter technique 2-3 times with more
Brown 139, Dark Flesh 019 and Light Flesh
sanding in between, until the wood effect
006. As soon as the wood grain lines are
looks realistic to the eye. The final step is to
dry I sprayed highly diluted (90% thinner -
seal everything with a Tamiya semi-gloss
10% colour) colour filters of various Tamiya
varnish mix.
acrylics (Flat Earth XF-52, Dark Yellow
The overall process may sound
XF-60, Brown X-9, NATO Brown XF-68, Red
complicated but as acrylic colours dry fast
Brown XF-64, Flat Red XF-7, Flat Yellow
it ends up finishing within an hour. Much
XF-3). The filters soften the starkness of the
faster time wise than waiting for oils to dry.
brush painted wood grain lines and merge
79
FINISHING TOUCHES
Opted not to use any decals besides factory logos on the
struts. Roundels and serial numbers were masked,
painted and weathered to match the war weary look.
Another idea to break visual symmetry (based on a war
photo of a damaged Pup) was painting the right upper
aileron with a different size roundel as a hypothetical
replacement part scenario. A few battle damage patches
finished the overall look by masking uneven squares and
painting them darker tones of green and blue. Turnbuckles
were fashioned by thin plastic tubing, cut to shape and
painted a dark copper colour. For rigging I used charcoal
EZ Line elastic thread. “Heavy” size to depict the RAF flat
wires and “Fine” for control cables. As long as you are
careful not to twist the “Heavy” thread while gluing you
can achieve a very convincing RAF flat wire look!
80
CONCLUSION REFERENCES
The overall build took me about 6 months. I • “From the seas… to the skies” The Naval
was excited to experiment with new Air Force Chronicle 1913-1914, Vice
painting techniques, learn about WWI Admiral (ret.) Ioannis Paloubis H.N.
planes and rigging and appreciate the
bigger artistic canvas that a 1:32 model • “Z” (Greek) Squadron RNAS, Bruce
provides you with. I’m already working on Robertson, Air Pictorial, February 1988
another WWI biplane and purchased
several more to build down the road. I • Royal Naval Air Service 1912-1918, Brad
guess we do need to listen to our wives, King, Hikoki Publications
occasionally…
81
THE BIGGEST MODEL IN THE

WINGNUT WINGS RANGE, THE
TWIN ENGINED GOTHA BOMBER
GOTHA
WITH ITS 70CM WINGSPAN IS
QUITE A HANDFUL!
I like a challenge and they don’t come much bigger
G.IV
than this! In contemplating the build I was keen to find
a different scheme to those supplied with the kit and I
did not find the pale blue daylight schemes that
attractive. When I came across a Ronnie Barr profile of
a hexagonal lozenge patterned Gotha based on photos
of a crashed aircraft I was immediately inspired. The
colours appealed and the challenge of reproducing the
David Parker repeating pattern added to the appeal.
82
83
THE COCKPIT
Cracking open the big box work begins
immediately with cleaning off the pin marks from
the insides of the fuselage using a Micro Chisel to
scrape them off. The marks are quite slight so
STAGE 1 this is not difficult to do.
With all the parts cleaned up and test fitted

where required it is time to start painting before
assembly, which is so much easier than painting
with everything assembled.
DARK WOOD
The dark wood finish of the interior was all treated
in the same way using some simple techniques in
sequence which I will run through here.
STAGE 1
STAGE 1
A base coat of brown is sprayed over all the
wooden parts. Each panel is treated individually
and the woodgrain pattern is painted with a chisel
shaped brush using a darker tone of brown.
STAGE 2
A darker tone is used to enhance selected areas
of the woodgrain pattern. Don’t worry if the
pattern looks quite contrasty at this stage as it
will be more muted when finished.
STAGE 2 STAGE 3
A dark brown shade is airbrushed over the parts
to firstly define the panels and also to shade
around the edges and recesses.
On the page opposite you can see the same

stages applied to the insides of the fuselage.
STAGE 4
To give the wooden parts a varnished look all the
parts were sprayed with a mix of Tamiya
transparent yellow and orange. This warms the
colours without loosing any of the woodgrain
STAGE 3 pattern and dries with a sheen. I oversprayed all
the parts with satin varnish to complete the look.
84
STAGE 2
The bracing structure in the

nose is picked out in a mid
brown shade.
Dark brown shadows applied

along the lower edges of the
sides.
Individual panels are defined

with shading too.
STAGE 3
STAGE 4
85
Photo 1 The main cockpit components seen
1 here after the application of the transparent

colours but before the satin varnish.
Photo 2 The bulkheads are glued in position on

the floor with the edging strips finished with Mr
Metal Color ‘Aluminium’ Note the rudder bar is
also in position.
Photo 3 The instrument panel ready to be fitted.

The same wood grain techniques were used here
along with the excellent kit decals for the
instrument dials.
Photo 4 The assembly sequence for the cockpit

floor. The spare MG ammunition canisters were
all pre-painted before being fitted into the racks.
The photoetched seatbelts were all annealed in a
gas flame to soften them and then were bent into
natural looking arrangements. Careful painting
and shading to define the texture and stitching
helps to bering them to life.
2 3
86
Photo 5 Another view of the cockpit floor and the

assembled bulkheads and bomb racks. folding the seat
belts in different ways on each seat gives a far more
realistic look.
Photo 6 The internal bracing wires were

added to the framing on both sides of the
cockpit using fine brass rod which was
then painted a dark grey.
I rebated the rear of the frames to accept the

wires and prevent them making the frame Photo 7 Two views of the cockpit with the instrument
stand proud from the cockpit wall. The panel installed just before the fuselage was closed.
tolerances for the fit of the kit are very exact Note the bracing wires across the pilot’s side window.
and this would throw out the fit of the cockpit.
87
The fuselage is finally joined together and the pilot’s fairing is

fitted. Photo 8 I had very slight gaps on the underside each
side of the wings which I filled with white miliput. Photo 9 To
9
be sure of a good finish I also filled the nose and instrument
panel fairings.
THE ENGINES
Onto the construction of the engines next and I had already
decided to leave the cowlings closed on my model. The engine
is partly visible through the openings in the cowlings so it
needs to be painted as well as assembled but I was not going
to spend any time in additional details like the wiring harness 10
for example. Photo 10 Painting too was kept very simple and
weathering effects very minimal.
88
11 12
Photos 11-13 Take care when assembling the nacelles, the front
and rear sections are fitted first and there is some latitude in
13 getting these to align properly with the large side panels. I
undertook numerous dry fitting tests to try to avoid problems but I
still ended up with some uneven panel gaps. I used slivers of
plastic card to even out the worst of these gaps until I had a result
that I was happy with. I would also remind you of the two rigging
wires which run from inside the nacelles to the upper wing and
should be installed at this stage. I overlooked them and had
considerable problems fitting them with the wings in place. Don’t
forget the pair of fuel gauges on the inner cowlings.
With the central wing and the nacelles assembled the remaining
wing parts were removed from the sprues and prepared for
painting. All the gaps and internal areas were masked off using
sponge foam and masking tape.
89
14 15
Photo 14 To begin the painting process all the wing undersides Photo 15 Of the four colours that make up the lozenge scheme I
were sprayed with Misterkit Acrylic ‘Gotha Daylight Bombing Blue’ decided to start with the blue. I selected Vallejo colours that were
GC22. Once dry the undersides were masked in preparation for the the closest that I could get to those in the illustration. These were
painting of the top surfaces. then individually mixed to get a perfect match.
16 17
Photo 16 I drew up the lozenge pattern on computer and used Photo 17 The wings and fuselage were easy to mask but the
this to cut a stencil from Frisk masking film. Here the film is being nacelles and the fuselage gun tunnel were more complex. Smaller
removed to show the pink lozenge pattern. sections of hexagon mask were cut to work into these areas.
18 19
Photo 18 The two other colours were applied in the same way. Photo 19 The markings were adapted from those supplied in the
Any slight gaps were touched in and some creativity was required kit. The ‘SSW’ was not provided so this was hand painted.
to get the patterns to work around the nacelles.
20
90 21
Photo 20 Strips of masking tape were used to mask off the rib Photo 21 The same process was carried out on the upper
tapes on the undersides of the wings in preparation for some surfaces too. I also masked off the walkway strips on either side of
shading. the nacelles.
22
All the rib tapes were shaded with Com Art Transparent Smoke
colour. Panel lines and the edges of the fuselage and the walkway
strips were also shaded using this. Here you can see the effect
once the masking has been removed. Other details like the foot
steps on the side of the fuselage have been painted in German
Light Grey using Mister Kit GC08.
A dark oil wash was then applied to pick out the panel line detail
along the fuselage as well as to pick out all the other raised details,
like the window frames and small fittings.
Photo 22 The nacelles and inner wings were also given the dark
wash treatment and the fuselage and wing assemblies were are
seen here test fitted together.
91
23 24
Photo 23 Time to fit the fuselage control cables and I shaved off Photo 24 The same loops were added to the tail and these were
the raised detail from the rigging points and added copper wire all painted black before proceeding to add the control lines.
loops.
25 26
Photo 25 I used the elastic EZ Line (Fine) to make the control Photo 26 The EZ Line is then stretched taught and glued in place
cables. This was secured with CA glue and threaded through the on the control horns. Remarkably easy and problem free.
loops along the fuselage.
The front and rear of the fuselage control lines once

they have been fitted, something that is best done
before the wings or nacelles are fitted.
92
27 28
Photo 27 The exhausts look identical at first glance but are in fact Photo 28 This can be a bit ‘sparkly’ but was toned down with
different. Mine were fitted before painting the lozenges and were washes of very dilute pale rust shades. The exhaust outlets which
then given a base coat of Gunze Burnt Iron. had been drilled out were finished with black pigments for a sooty
look.
29
The fuselage and centre wing/nacelle

assembly and finally joined and the
outer wings too - now the massive
scale of the bomber becomes
apparent! The central interplane
struts are also fitted and they fit
snugly into the fuselage.
Photo 29 The walkway strips on the

lower wings are painted with Gunze
Aluminium and then toned down with
oil washes. The pulpit MG ring has
also been fitted but not yet painted.
93
30 31
Photos 30-31 When I came to join the two upper wings with the not terribly robust so there is no ideal solution. I think working with
central plug section I realised that I was going to have to fill, sand the two halves as I did is still probably the best choice. The central
and repaint the underside. It was much easier to handle the two joint area after it has been repainted, some slight differences but
smaller wing halves than one massive piece and the central joint is fortunately the underside is not very visible.
32 The struts are all then fitted to the lower

wing and different shaped pegs mean
that they can only be fitted the correct
way round which is perfect for someone
like me!
Photo 32 Before assembling the wings the struts need to be

pre-rigged. The cables run from inside the trailing edges of the
struts making them difficult to install. I used a small drill bit to open
a hole in the strut and glued nylon lines in position. Note the leather
guards around the holes.
33
Photo 33 The top wing is dropped onto the struts - a procedure
that I was not looking forward to. In fact everything lined up
perfectly and with the struts all correctly seated and glued the
whole structure was remarkably solid!
34
Photo 34 The cross bracing between the struts was then secured
94
with RB Productions turnbuckles for the lower wing fixings.
35 36
Photo 35-36 The next job is to fit the ‘Y’ shaped rigging that runs
from the top wing to the inboard side of the nacelles. I used the
nylon line for this because the elastic line would be too difficult to
control. The lower line was glued to the nacelle and the location
holes drilled out on the top wing. The top lines are passed through
the wing, tensioned and secured by wedging cocktail sticks into
the holes. Once the glue has set the excess line and the sticks are
trimmed off and any small damage to the lozenge paint is
retouched.
The remaining rigging was added using EZ Line, see our hints
and dips section for the techniques used.
Photo 37 The twin aileron control cables were also added

with EZ Line and I used brass tube to replicate the leather
covers for the turnbuckles which were to prevent them
tangling together.
37 95
38 39
Photo 39 The tails skid was finished using the same techniques
but with lighter colours - here the skid is seen half way through the
painting sequence after the wooden parts have been finished and
with some oil wash details.
Photo 38 The propellers were painted with a mid brown base coat
41
and then oil paint was dragged over this to give the wood grain
finish. The Gotha blades do no appear to have the obvious
laminated finish of other blades. A coat of satin varnish finished the
blades and the hubs were picked out in Mr Metal Color Stainless.
40
Photo 40 The undercarriage was assembled dry using the location Photo 41 The bomb racks were detailed by drilling out the
lugs in the nacelles to align everything and then fixed, removed moulded webs in the frames. Its a time-consuming and fiddly
from the nacelles and the rigging wires installed which is much process but the opened frames really improve the look of the
racks. I also decided to make my own straps to hold the bombs
easier. The wheels were washed with Humbrol 72 to dirty them.
96 which I did with some ‘Heavy’ EZ Line.
42 43
Photo 42 The bombs were assembled using the sets without the Photo 43 The bombs are fitted to the rack and the straps glued
moulded on hanging straps and any joint gaps were filled. After down and the excess material trimmed. Remember to work in the
painting the base colours the chipped and scraped paint was direction of the straps to avoid hiding the areas you need to fix the
added using torn sponge and a fine brush to paint the chips in straps.
shades of grey. They were weathered with a wash of oil colours
44 45
Photo 44 The finished rack with the bombs loaded. Photo 45 The separate straps and the drilled out brackets have
really improved the look of the bomb racks.
46 47
Photo 46 The nose and rear fuselage racks are a different design Photo 47 The bombs are fitted and the straps secured and all the
but again I wanted the separate straps adding. The kit bomb racks racks fitted under the fuselage below.
needed a pair of horizontal rods adding to each side of the mount.
97
48 49
Photo 48 Final touches now and the kit MG barrels are replaced Photo 49 The gun was painted in Mr Metal Color Dark Iron which
with the superb Master turned brass examples complete with the can be polished with a soft brush. Mr Metal Color brass and copper
rectangular pattern etched gun sight. The brass parts were were used for the ammunition belt too. The bracing rod for the
pre-treated in Uschi van der Rosten brass burnishing fluid to ammunition was added from 0.3mm nickel silver rod.
blacken them.
50 51
98
Photo 50 The completed gun is fitted into the pulpit mount. Photo 51 Before fitting the rear gun I added some polished wear
to the gun rails with a graphite pencil.
99
100
101
102
TOUCHDOWN
This is a big model by any standard and
the huge wingspan looks like it should be
fraught with problems but once again the
assembly was free of problems or
difficulties thanks to the excellent design of
the kit. It is a real treat to have even have a
kit of the Gotha but to find the build so
enjoyable only adds to the experience.
I am pleased with how the lozenge pattern

worked and the finished look compares
well to the artwork which inspired it. I
finished off the build by adding the
wonderfully characterful Wings Cockpit
Figures resin crew figures. These were
painted with acrylics and really give a
sense of scale and period to the finished
model.
103
TIPS & HINTS CONSIDERED THE MOST DAUNTING ASPECT OF

MODELLING WORLD WAR ONE AIRCRAFT, THE
RIGGING IS SOMETHING TO UNNERVE EVEN
RIGGING
AN EXPERIENCED MODELLER AND THE WHOLE
FIDDLYNESS OF THE PROCESS MAY OFTEN
DISCOURAGE YOU FROM EVEN STARTING.
The good news is that in 1:32nd scale the process is more

straightforward and we hope that with our step by step guide
and one or two tips and techniques the whole process will be
easier, so steady your hands and take up your tweezers as we
start rigging.
104
All the Wingnut Wings kits have been designed to

be easy to assemble and this carries right through
to the rigging. Although the modeller is left to
choose and provide his own rigging material the
kits all provide recessed location points for the
rigging. This is a big help in firstly making sure that
you don’t miss any rigging points! There are several
possible approaches to rigging your model. You
could carefully measure the distances for each
rigging line and glue them into these location holes
but obtaining a correct tension in the lines can be
tricky.
I prefer to be able to tension the rigging lines which

means fixing one end and pulling the line through
the wing. Once you try this method I think you will
find it a simple and effective method.
RIGGING MATERIAL CHOICE

I have tried several different materials for
rigging with starting with fishing line or
invisible thread. This type of nylon line will
need to be painted but accepts acrylic
paint quite readily. Because it does not
stretch it can be useful in adding structural
strength to your model just like on the real
aircraft. It is also handy for those situations
where you need a little more control than
you get with an elastic line.
EZ Line is the material I use mostly for my

rigging. I have both Heavy and Fine sizes
with the Fine being best for most
requirements. The heavy version has a
distinct flat strip profile which may suit the
British aerodynamic rigging wires but
would need to be twist-free. The dark
grey/black colour means you can avoid
painting the line too.
For the British aerodynamic rigging wires

RB Productions has a range of different
thickness photoetched flat wires. These are
of course a rigid wire that has to be cut to
length but when cut fractionally oversize
will sit into the moulded wing location
holes.
1 2 3
TURNBUCKLES 1 Gaspatch models have a range of superb

white metal turnbuckles available in several
unpainted if you wish. They also come with
optional flat sections that can be bent to
different configurations. The quality is use as hooks to secure the turnbuckles to
Turnbuckles are a visible feature of aircraft
excellent and each set provides 30 of the the wings. www.radub.com
rigging at this scale and are used to
tiny turnbuckles. They are perfect
tension the cables or wires on the real
miniatures of the real things but the 3 Another RB Productions product are
aircraft. Fortunately there are now a range
downside is that they are quite expensive. British Wire Terminals RB-P32013 and are
of aftermarket solutions on offer to help the
www.gaspatchmodels.com designed to work with RB Productions
modeller add this detail with relative ease.
rigging wires. The set contains 50 ‘flexible’
2 RB Productions offer an excellent terminals and 40 ‘straight’ terminals. Again
photoetched solution with their product these have to be individually assembled,
RB-P32023. This brass fret provides no less but are really going to enhance the finished
than 80 sets of turnbuckles. These have look of your model. www.radub.com
half etched bodies than have to be folded
in opposite directions to give the fatter 105
central tube effect. This is a little fiddly due
to their size but you quickly get the feel for
folding them. They are strong and the brass
finish means that you can leave the body
ELASTIC THREAD
1 2
Photo 1 I always work from the top wing down so that the top Photo 2 Having judged the length of your line when it is tensioned
surfaces of the wings are unmarked. Glue one end of the EZ line you can attach your chosen turnbuckle system - here I am using
into the hole provided with CA glue. the RB Productions photoetched examples. Loop the line through
the turnbuckle and secure with a dab of CA glue.
3 4
Photo 3 Next I feed a small length of pre-painted nylon line Photo 4 Feed the two ends into the drilled out location hole in the
through the other end of the turnbuckle. Hold the two open ends of lower wing.
the nylon line together as shown.
5 6
Photo 5 Pull the line through the wing and the EZ Line should start Photo 6 You can just glue the nylon line into position or for added
to become tensioned. The line will need to be slightly undersized security use the glued tip of a cocktail stick to wedge into the exit
so that it will stretch to fit. No need to overdo this as just a small hole under the wing.
amount of stretch will keep everything looking taught.
Photo 7 Leave the stick in place for the glue to harden and then A dab of PVA glue is a good way to seal your anchor points for the
106 the stick and excess nylon line can be trimmed off. If done carefully
rigging and will dry transparent.
you don’t need to fill the holes on the wing underside.
PHOTOETCHED WIRES
If you don’t want to use any of the turnbuckle solutions here is an Photo 1 Begin by measuring the required size for your etched
alternative. Mr Surfacer can be painted onto the line and you can rigging line using calipers or dividers. Add an additional 3 or 4mm
gradually build up the diameter to give the impression of a
to the overall length to sit into the wing location holes.
turnbuckle.
2
Photo 2 Measure out the size on the cables and cut the cable Photo 3 Slot the cables into the wing location holes and if the
from the fret. Check if there are multiple cables of the same size measurements are correct the cable will be held in position.
required so that they can all be cut at the same time.
4
Photo 4 A dab of white glue can be used to secure the cable and
will give a degree of flexibility to the joint.
Photo 5 For the detail fanatic the RB Productions British wire

terminals are designed to work with the wires themselves. These
can be wired through the wing with nylon line using the
etched holes provided.
107
WOODEN COMPONENTS ARE A FACET OF ALL

TIPS & HINTS WORLD WAR ONE AIRCRAFT SO TECHNIQUES
FOR REPLICATING THE LOOK OF WOODEN
WOOD
PARTS ARE REQUIRED.
There are several different methods for reproducing wood grain pattern which
you can do with paints or there are various commercial decal-based solutions
GRAIN
available too. The decals are ideal for large flat areas like the fuselage or
cockpit floor but the smaller frame detail inside the cockpit is going to have to
be painted so having a few simple techniques to hand is going to be essential.
PAINTING
This can actually be a lot less daunting than it might at first
seem. There are two painting methods that we will describe but
both involve working over a base colour with different top coats.
Obviously the finished shade will be dictated by the base colour
that you select, pale shades for a blonde wood and richer
browns for a dark wood finish. I find the Lifecolor acrylic boxed
set ‘Weathered Wood’ is an excellent starting point for this with
six different wood shades ranging from dark to light.
108 Photos courtesy of Uschi van der Rosten
A selection of the different products and materials for replicating wood effects. Paint options include the dedicated 6 colour boxed acrylic
set by Lifecolor and these can be used in conjunction with oil paints. Flat chisel tipped brushes are helpful in painting woodgrain patterns.
A range of decal systems are also available with HGW offering solid and transparent versions along with full panelling options. Uschi van
der Rosten have teamed up with Wingnut Wings artist Ronnie Bar to produce woodgrain decals in different shades based on Ronnie’s
artwork.
DRAGGED OILS
1 2
This is a quick and effective technique that
even a novice can get good results with
and I find it is ideal for finishing the cockpit
components where smaller ribs and struts
are the norm. Working with oils is quite
forgiving and if it all goes wrong you can
wipe it clean and start again. The
disadvantage for the impatient modeller
like me is that you need to allow time for
the oils to dry but working over an acrylic
base layer does seem to speed this up so
that parts can be handled carefully after 24 1 Beginning with a base colour of lifecolor 2 A piece of sponge is dragged over the oil
hours. wood tone a layer of undiluted oil colour is paint to partly remove the paint and give a
applied over the top. streaked appearance.
3 4 5
3 Using a flat brush you can lift more paint 4 Using a fine brush and a darker colour of 5 Once the masking is removed the
from selective areas and enhance the oil paint small knot details are added finished wood panel is revealed having
wood grain pattern, working in ‘V’ shapes taken less than 10 minutes to produce.
109
HAND GRAINING 2
1
This is a more demanding technique as it
involves painting all the individual
woodgrain patterning by hand and
consequently you need to develop an eye
for how these look. Working from reference
pictures of the type of wood that you are
replicating is a good way to develop this
and soon you will be brush painting your
patterns everywhere! I prefer to use acrylic
paint for this but the techniques could be
applied to other paints just as well. 1 Working over a sprayed base colour I 2 The pattern is built up in waves moving
mixed a slightly darker tone for the grain. out from the centre. Keeping the brush
With a chisel tipped brush the first strokes horizontal will automatically create wider
of the grain are applied. patterns as it moves vertically.
This is a loose graphic guide to building up a wood grain pattern.

Different types of wood will have different grain patterns and densities. 3
3 Using a new darker mix of the grain

colour selected areas are painted again to
emphasise the pattern
Above There are three different woodgrain shades on this Fokker 4 Darker spots are added to the centre of
E. III cockpit assembly, all brush painted using these techniques. the knots.
5 6 7
5 Here the same technique is used to build 6 Oversprayed transparent colours can be 7 This floor panel was taken from light to
up the plywood pattern on the Albatross used to modify the finish and to add a dark tones just by spraying layers of
110 fuselage. Overspraying with very dilute yellowed varnished effect. Transparent transparent yellow and orange over the
paint can be used to vary the colours colours are subtle and can be used to original colours seen in the inset picture.
between panels. intensify your woodgrain tones.
WOODGRAIN DECALS
It couldn’t be more simple and if the whole
idea of generating your own woodgrain is
just too much then these decal products
provide the perfect solution. These are
available as solid or transparent examples.
The cockpit floor panel on this Pfalz has
been finished using a solid woodgrain
decal applied directly to the kit part. The
advantage of the transparent decals is that
you can adjust the finished look with the
base colour that you apply under the decal.
Wood finish fuselages are best treated
panel by panel and slight variations in your
base colours between panels will enhance
the finished look.
We tested three different transparent

decals over the same base colour to show
the differences in the finished effect. I offset
the decals to show the base colour along
the top strip and the effect of the decal
applied over pure white at the bottom
edge.
Masking tape can be used to trace the

shape of individual panels and then to
transfer this outline onto the decal sheet.
Note the pre-shaded base colour on the
fuselage in preparation for the decals. Photos courtesy of Uschi van der Rosten
Photos courtesy of Uschi van der Rosten
The finished result is extremely effective as can be seen here.

111
TIPS & HINTS

AFTER
MarKET
SUPPLIERS
FIGURES Bobs Buckles
Custom made brass and wire turnbuckles,
Airscale
Airscale have a range of replacement
designed to be used with nylon line but can instrument dial decals and photoetched
Wings Cockpit Figures
also work with elastic threads. instrument bezels.
A growing range of 1:32 resin figures with
www.bobsbuckles.co.uk www.airscale.co.uk
World War One pilots and ground crew
designed to work with the Wingnut Wings
HGW Models
kits.
www.wingscockpitfigures.com ENGINES HGW have a range of different aftermarket
products from their acclaimed seatbelt
Also available from Model Design
sets, woodgrain decals and photoetched
Construction Taurus Models
upgrades
www.modeldesignconstruction.co.uk Taurus have a range of high quality resin
www.hgwmodels.cz
super detail and upgrade parts to improve
Model Cellar Productions various engines from the Wingnut Wings
Nordland Models
Model Cellar have a range of 1:32 resin range.
Nordland carries a full range of World War
World War One Pilot figures, mostly in www.taurusmodels.pl
One kits, detail sets, decals and other
casual poses and with several personality
accessories.
subjects. NeOmega Resin
www.nordlandmodels.com
www.ModelCellar.com A small range of highly detailed
Also available in the UK from replacement resin engines.
www.skminiatures.co.uk www.neomega-resin.com/index.htm
GUN BARRELS
REFERENCES DECALS Master
Superb turned brass gun barrel upgrades
to improve your kits weapons
Windsock Datafiles Pheon Models
www.master-model.pl
An extensive range of dedicated World War A dedicated range of high quality decals
One publications providing superb sheets to extend your finishing options. Full
Aber
reference material for a huge range of colour profiles and written guide to the
Aber have a small but growing range of
aircraft. schemes are provided in each set.
turned brass replacement aircraft gun
www.windsockdatafilespecials.co.uk pheon.models@hotmail.co.uk
barrels.
No dedicated website but more details can
www.aber.net.pl
be found here:
RIGGING www.greatwaraviation.com/forum/index.ph
p/board,46.0.html
RB Productions
Uschi van der Rosten
Radu Brinzan is your man for all the
Woodgrain decals, paint masks and brass
streamlined flat rigging wires, turnbuckle
burnishing products are amongst the range
and British fixing solutions as well as other
of excellent products for the World War
good things like the laminated propeller
One aircraft modeller.
paint mask.
www.uschivdr.com
www.radubstore.com
Aviattic
Gas Patch Models
Resource and information site and a new
High quality white metal turnbuckles,
range of products including some excellent
eyelets and late type RAF anchors .
looking lozenge decals.
www.gaspatchmodels.com/accessories/
www.aviattic.co.uk
112
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Cover Artwork:Layout 1 29/05/2013 17:22 Page 1

AIR MODELLER’S GUIDE TO

AIR MODELLER’S GUIDE TO

Daniel Zamarbide Suarez

Originally the concept of the plane was

This aircraft entered service as a substitute for the

I will say to start that I have always only made aviation

I remember opening the box and I immediately knew it

Instrument Panel Reverse

Instrument Panel Front

In this case I have upgraded the inside with a rolled up tarp, a

I must say that this model did not stop surprising

Step 2 Base Coat

Step 4 Darker Shade sprayed

Step 5 The result after the masking

Step 6 Grain effects added

Step 7 Red Overlay

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Step 8 Gold/Silver Detail Added.

Completed Propeller ready to be

PAINTING & WEATHERING

As with parts of the cockpit after painting

The underside was varnished and I placed

As a point of interest and taking

Time for the weapons and although the kit

Now with all parts completed I proceeded

Secondly, carefully fit the floats and rigging

Thirdly and as equally carefully, fit the wings

THE SCOUT EXPERIMENTAL NO. 5

Wingnut Wings boxes have everything to please the

Photos 7-9: All components are glued into the

Photo 10: The instrument panel is painted using

Photos 11-13 The fuselages halves are

11 12 assembled without worries, and we can then glue

Photos 14-16: The whole instrument panel is

Photos 17-18: The top of the cockpit is treated

Photos 19-21: The cabin struts are glued, and to

Photos 29-30: The outer wheel covers are

Photos 31: The rudder is sprayed in white

Photos 32-33: The engine is mounted as

Photos 43-45: The struts are given a Citadel

Photos 46-48: The completed struts are glued

Photos 50-51: The main work of

I MUST ADMIT THAT I'VE NEVER

Photo 10: The engine, a splendid base is slightly

Photo 11: To paint the dials of the dashboard so

Photo 12: The harnesses are redone in a very

Photo 13: The foil allows the harness straps to be

34 grey after the grain wood is totally dry, with circular

Photo 32: On the wing underside, in line with the

Photo 35: landing gear are copiously

Photo 36: WNW provides the machine guns

I really enjoyed my first excursion into the

Jose Maria Martinez Fernandez

DESIGNED TO REPLACE THE BE2

IDEA & PLANNING

The kit comes with photoetched

Although the roundels that are supplied

On the upper wing I first applied

I had reached the hardest part of the model

Fitting the rigging

Control Cables The Propeller

The Machine Gun Mount

I placed the aircraft by drilling holes in and