Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
Chris Hemsworth works hard and chooses his roles carefully. He handles pressure
by taming it, and turning it to his advantage. #DontCrackUnderPressure was coined
with him in mind.
www.tagheuer.com
43 119
Editor’s Letter My Style
Root through the wardrobe of entrepreneur and
55 A-list florist Ronny Colbie.
Foreword
Motoring’s electric dreams will become a
reality for all of us sooner than you think... 120
Watches
A new Moon rises at Louis Vuitton
63
Details
108 with the marque’s first smartwatch.
123
The Horrors’ latest monster hit;
Robert Webb on what it means to be
a man; Flatliners’ Nina Dobrev looks
108Cars
Travel
From backstreet markets to grand old architecture,
GQ discovers the secret world of Sicily’s capital and
Why it’s all about kerb Taormina’s rugged beauty.
to the future; how to spot a “slashie”. appeal for Bugatti’s
261mph Chiron; the new
Mercedes-AMG S63. 127
85
Tony Parsons
Pushing past
116 your limits can be
The Lab dangerous in the
Don’t buy a laptop gym, but even
– smart covers and in injury there’s
keyboards mean a room to grow.
tablet is more
your type.
143
Taste 103
Why Jamie Oliver
wants us to spend less time in the
85
New House Rules
kitchen; Yotam Ottolenghi’s sweet tooth;
Temper’s flare at its new City grill joint.
Corduroys, bumbags,
keychains and big 119
earrings: permission
granted. Plus, the GQ
mega-yacht bingo.
100
Our Stuff
Photographic Director
Robin Key opens up about
life behind the lens. 123 120
152
103
Bachelor Pad
Michael Wolff
President Trump promised to drain “the swamp” of
Clean up in the American politics – but Washington is fighting back.
home style stakes
with a bathroom 167
that’s worth Style Manual
Black tie is changing; Kingsman’s fashion hits; Jim
splashing out for. Chapman; Acqua Di Parma passes on the scent of Italy.
217
GQ Power
Drivers assemble! Audi’s
new A8 redefines the
limits of self-driving cars;
plus, Dominic Cooper goes
into overdrive. 132
192
205 217
132
245
The Drop
352
Lust for life
Chef Anthony Bourdain and rock’s
oldest wild child Iggy Pop on growing
The writers ruining pop; old disgracefully.
Takashi Murakami takes
Russia; Richard Rogers’
social scenes; the old ones
352
Out To Lunch 192
BY ESMA ANNEMON DIL
DEPUTY EDITOR Bill Prince CREATIVE DIRECTOR Paul Solomons FASHION DIRECTOR Robert Johnston
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ART DIRECTOR Keith Waterfield ASSOCIATE ART EDITOR Oliver Jamieson DESIGNER Anna Gordon
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ASSOCIATE PICTURE EDITOR Alfie Baldwin STAFF WRITER Eleanor Halls GQ.CO.UK INTERNS Akash Bhardwaj, Eleanor Davies TABLET PRODUCER Lucy Streule
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Contributing Editors
Mel Agace, Andrew Anthony, Chris Ayres, Jason Barlow, Stephen Bayley, Tara Bernerd, Heston Blumenthal, Debra Bourne, Michael Bracewell, Jennifer Bradly, Charlie Brooks, Ed Caesar, Alastair Campbell,
Naomi Campbell, Robert Chalmers, Jim Chapman, Nik Cohn, Giles Coren, Victoria Coren Mitchell, Andy Coulson, Adrian Deevoy, Alan Edwards, Robert Elms, David Furnish, Bear Grylls, Sophie Hastings,
David Hicks, Mark Hix, Julia Hobsbawm, Boris Johnson, John Kampfner, Simon Kelner, Rod Liddle, Sascha Lilic, Frank Luntz, Dorian Lynskey, Piers Morgan, John Naughton, Hans-Ulrich Obrist, Dermot O’Leary,
Ian Osborne, Tom Parker Bowles, Tony Parsons, Oliver Peyton, Julia Peyton-Jones, Amol Rajan, Hugo Rifkind, David Rosen, Martin Samuel, Darius Sanai, Kenny Schachter, Simon Schama, Alix Sharkey,
Ed Smith, Ed Vaizey, Celia Walden, Danny Wallace, Jim White, Michael Wolff, Peter York, Toby Young
Contributing Photographers
Miles Aldridge, Guy Aroch, David Bailey, Coppi Barbieri, Matthew Beedle, Gavin Bond, Richard Burbridge, Richard Cannon, Kenneth Cappello, Matthias Clamer, Dylan Don, Jill Greenberg, Marc Hom,
Benny Horne, Norman Jean Roy, Tony Kelly, Steven Klein, David LaChapelle, Brigitte Lacombe, Joshua Lawrence, Sun Lee, Peter Lindbergh, Steve Neaves, Zed Nelson, Mitch Payne, Vincent Peters,
Rankin, Mick Rock, Mark Seliger, Søren Solkær, Mario Sorrenti, Mario Testino, Ellen von Unwerth, Mariano Vivanco, Matthias Vriens, Nick Wilson, Richard Young
DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATION AND RIGHTS Harriet Wilson EDITORIAL BUSINESS MANAGER Stephanie Chrisostomou
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VANESSA KINGORI
PA TO THE PUBLISHER Emma Cox
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Khan Khan
Kurupt Kurupt
FM FM
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Malik Malik
Anthony Cillian
Joshua Murphy
+ +
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Things Things
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of the coolest
Culture . Sport Cillian of the coolest
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Fashion . Tech
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GQ’s TV Actor Of The Year GQ’s Sportsman Of The Year
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www.gq.co.uk OCTOBER . 2017 . £3.99
Hamill
Interview by Stuart McGurk Photographed by Charlie Gray Interview by Jonathan Heaf Photographed by Gavin Bond
“I’ve been to the Oscars, and this is better than the Oscars” – Michael Lewis
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www.gq.co.uk OCTOBER . 2017 . £3.99
or David Cameron, Tony Blair and Boris Johnson wondering if political careers really do
Interview by Matthew Jones Photographed by Gavin Bond
all end in failure. And while we obviously know that the collective power of the extraor- Interview by Holly Bruce Photographed by Brakha X2
dinary people in the room (try Eddie Redmayne, Emma Watson, Sir Michael Caine,
Madonna, Pharrell Williams, Ringo Starr, Benedict Cumberbatch, Sir Patrick Stewart,
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Stormzy Stormzy
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sponsored by Hugo Boss, remain a reflection of achievement, a way to acknowledge Cillian
www.gq.co.uk OCTOBER . 2017 . £3.99
Hamill Murphy
Nick Nick
Cave Cave
Adwoa
Aboah
Sadiq
success in every field, from fashion and film to politics Adwoa
Aboah
Sadiq
Khan Khan
Kurupt
FM and pop, from literature to sport and from comedy to Kurupt
FM
Anthony Zayn
Joshua
Cillian
Murphy
architecture and back again, applauding supermodels, Malik
Anthony
Joshua
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of the coolest
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1 Cillian Murphy, TV Actor Of The Year, wears Hugo Boss. Photographed by John Balsom
www.gq.co.uk OCTOBER . 2017 . £3.99
www.gq.co.uk OCTOBER . 2017 . £3.99
Zayn Murphy
Malik Nick
Cave
Sadiq
Khan
Mark
2 Anthony Joshua, Sportsman Of The Year, wears Ralph Lauren Purple Label. Mark
Hamill
Hamill
Jared
Leto
Photographed by Matthew Brookes 3 Sadiq Khan, Politician Of The Year, wears Hugo Boss. Sadiq
Khan
Kurupt
Kurupt
FM Photographed by Charlie Gray 4 Jared Leto, Actor Of The Year, wears Tom Ford. FM
Zayn
Cillian Malik
Murphy
Anthony
Photographed by Gavin Bond 5 The Grand Tour, TV Personalities Of The Year, wear Moss Anthony
Joshua
Joshua +
Stranger
+ Bros. Photographed by Gavin Bond 6 Stranger Things, Editor’s Special Award, wear J Crew Stranger
Things
Things
154 pages and Givenchy. Photographed by Brakha X2 7 Zayn Malik, Most Stylist Man Of The Year, 154 pages
of the coolest
Culture . Sport
of the coolest
Culture . Sport Adwoa
Fashion . Tech
Cars . Bars Stormzy wears Hugo Boss and Boss Bottled. Photographed by Doug Inglish 8 Mark Hamill, Icon Of Fashion . Tech
Cars . Bars Aboah
Interiors Interiors
GQ’s Solo Artist Of The Year
The Year, wears Rag & Bone. Photographed by Gavin Bond 9 Stormzy, Solo Artist Of The GQ’s Woman Of The Year
Year, wears Philipp Plein. Photographed by Daniel Sannwald 10 Adwoa Aboah, Woman Of
Story by Dorian Lynskey Photographed by Daniel Sannwald
The Year, wears Hugo Boss and Boss The Scent For Her. Photographed by Mariano Vivanco Interview by Jonathan Heaf Photographed by Mariano Vivanco
T skill and tenacity of those involved, but also to the secret sauce of the Men Of The
Year Awards itself.
As for the event, well, the acceptance speeches, red carpet tomfoolery, backstage
shenanigans, petty jealousies, the arguments and negotiations over dinner placement
and the photographs of the outrageous gowns and tuxedos pressed to within an inch of their lives
would fill a book. A big one. Maybe even two. And that’s without considering the extraordinary
happenings at the unofficial afterparty (Matthew Freud, take a bow). How shall we remember
Why Jared Leto’s
personal style is
a ‘total disaster’
The man himself raises
an eyebrow at his own
sartorial selections,
talks near-death
experiences, Blade
Runner 2049 and
the GQ Men Of The Year Awards? Probably by the small things, the things that we still talk about beards in our behind-
the-scenes video.
around the metaphorical water cooler: the second-degree wife of a first-degree star demanding
a limo with bulletproof windows to drive her the 200 metres from her hotel to the venue (What
did we do? Get her the car, of course. Did it have bulletproof glass? Obviously...); the globally
acclaimed singing superstar who publicly admonished another winner from the stage for being
disrespectful to his daughter; the legendary New York artist who – more than slightly refreshed
– fell asleep under his chair; Daniel Craig and Pierce Brosnan trading acting techniques on either
side of Charlize Theron over dinner; the look of complete incomprehension on the face of Yoko
Ono when confronted by Take That; and, of course,
the year when a certain presenter who we had flown
in from Japan cried off sick 90 minutes before she
Take a trip with Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon
was due on stage (her assistant calling to say that
Watch the GQ interview on our YouTube
she might start feeling a little better if someone were channel and try to work out whether the two
to come to her hotel room with £5,000 in cash). My titans of comedy hate, love or lust after each
own favourite MOTY memory is the year I faced a other. It’s like an extra episode of The Trip,
with added dinner jackets.
stand-up row with Harvey Weinstein after I had
the audacity to trim his acceptance showreel by 30
#GQAwards
seconds. Hell, he still turned up the next year. And
On the night, our
even sent me flowers. legendary Instagram
Anyway, congratulations to all our worthy booth will be in
winners and thank you to our host this year, all full swing, ready to
catch the moments
our wonderful presenters and especially to our that no one else will.
Events Director, the perennially incorrigible and For our exclusive
coverage, follow
unflappable Michelle Russell. us at @BritishGQ
Happy Birthday, MOTY. G
Dorian Alastair
LYNSKEY CAMPBELL
In this issue, the sonic scope of This year, Chelsea manager
GQ music critic Dorian Lynskey Antonio Conte won his first
spans grime (Copper Dog Premier League title and, in
Breakthrough Solo Artist Of turn, our Men Of The Year
The Year, Stormzy), rock (as Special Achievement Award.
Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds Alastair Campbell interviewed
scoop Band Of The Year) and him. “I loved when he said
John BALSOM pop, with a dissection of solo he was born with a ball in
Mob drama Peaky Blinders, set on the streets of Birmingham in the artists in this month’s Drop the belly of his mother and
Twenties, is one of the BBC’s most popular series. Its success is in large section. “Nick Cave and falls asleep and wakes up
part down to the brilliant Cillian Murphy, who plays gangster Tommy Stormzy represent two rare thinking of football,” says
Shelby, which is why we crowned him TV Actor Of The Year. Shot in achievements,” says Lynskey. Campbell. “It’s an odd
Manchester’s Victoria Baths by photographer John Balsom, Murphy “Exceeding expectations and statement, but seems so
looked suitably menacing in long coats and tailored trousers. keeping creative fires burning.” natural coming from him.”
Jonathan HEAF
The Blade Runner sequel is finally here, with
a sinister villain, Neander Wallace, played by
GQ’s Actor Of The Year, Jared Leto. Features
Director Jonathan Heaf interviewed Leto at
his home in Los Angeles. “It was a former
US military bunker: the antithesis of where
you’d expect a movie star to live,” says Heaf,
“almost as impressive as his majestic beard.”
Charlie GRAY
Photographer Charlie Gray shot three
Men Of The Year for this issue, with
Breakthrough Actor James Norton in a
vintage Mercedes Gullwing and Comedians
Of The Year Rob Brydon and Steve Coogan
in a greasy spoon. “And Shooting Politician IN ASSOCIATION WITH
or the past two decades already rolled off the production line, that we would recognise as a
F a storm has been brewing,
creating the perfect
conditions for the electric
car to kill the internal
combustion engine. The car that could
end the gas guzzler is the Tesla Model
3, which I believe will be as important
consigning them to niche tasks such
as powering milk floats, golf carts and
moon buggies.
Almost 100 years later, the
comeback started with the
quirky little General Motors EV1,
which caught the attention of
smartphone and an entrepreneur
named Elon Musk made $165 million
from Paypal’s sale to eBay. These
events were important milestones
in the history of the electric car and
its eventual dominance over the
combustion engine.
as the Ford Model T in the history environmentally conscious celebrities The most consistent complaint
of the automobile. Here’s why. living in California. Its heavy about the smartphone is the battery
lead-acid battery gave it a limited life, which often requires frequent
1. Better batteries but usable range of 70 to 100 miles, charges. Since the early noughties,
In all-electric cars, range, acceleration though it still managed to inspire money has been poured into
and cost are all determined by the maniacal loyalty among the small developing the storage capacity of
battery. That’s been the case since group of wealthy hippies who batteries and since then they have
the very first electric car, invented leased it. Unfortunately, it was a improved at a rate of six per cent a
in 1837 by Robert Davidson, a disastrous business failure and year. After spotting this burgeoning
Scottish chemist. The battery on General Motors decided to recall compound effect and realising General
this monstrous locomotive weighed all the cars, crush them and dump Motors’ mistakes with the EV1, Musk
tonnes, giving it a top speed of 4mph them only a few years later. started a company called Tesla.
and a range of a mile and a half. Around the same time this was High voltage: Tesla’s In 1996, the best batteries meant
Model X is the car
Electric car sales peaked in 1910, but happening, two events occurred: company’s answer that the EV1 could travel about 100
by then the first Ford Model T had Blackberry released the first device to the luxury SUV »
miles. Ten years later, Tesla’s first car
Faris
Badwan
P O R T R A I T BY
DAVID BAILEY
THE
RISING
S TA R
This isn’t quite how Faris Badwan pictured his life turning out. Born in On-Sea, releasing their debut album, Strange House, in 2007.
Bexley to a Palestinian father and English mother, as a child he desired “We couldn’t play back then,” says the 30-year-old. “But that’s
nothing more than to play in goal for Blackburn Rovers. “I wanted to why I enjoyed it.”
be like the other kids,” he says, sitting in a bar in London’s Holborn. “I Three subsequent albums of increasingly professional shoegaze
wanted to be blond and have freckles and be called James.” won them fans worldwide, turning Badwan into an unlikely indie icon
Instead, Badwan grew up to be a 6ft 6in Marjane Satrapi illustration, and landing him in situations that he could never have predicted.
his boxer’s nose emerging from a storm-cloud of black hair. He gave “One of the most surreal things in my life happened in Tokyo,” he
up on football and formed The Horrors with his friends in Southend- remembers. “People had told me how accommodating Japanese »
OCTOBER 2017 GQ.CO.UK 63
DETAILS
» audiences are,
but I never realised
it would extend to
them allowing me to
walk on their heads.
When I realised that
was possible, I didn’t
go back on stage.”
Despite the
acclaim, last year
the band almost
split after a decade
together. “We
weren’t enjoying it
or getting on.” Did
he consider leaving
The Horrors to go
solo? “It’s weird,
I look around and
it doesn’t seem to
have worked for
a lot of people,” he
THE
Fifa 18 is leagues ahead
says. “The thing is, VIDEO The premier football sim is back to command the field,
I’ll always do things GAME netting major upgrades to your next night in
and probably some
of that will be on
As the reputation of
my own. I’m terrified
football’s governing
The It just
of boredom.” incredible got (even
For now, it’s a body deteriorates,
moot point. While that of Fifa’s namesake journey more) real
recording their video game series only Fifa 17 introduced a For the past few years,
seems to improve. hugely popular story Fifa has tracked the
new album, V, The
Last year’s edition mode. In this, you took real-world football
Horrors rediscovered
sold 1.1 million copies a young, promising season, matching
themselves. The
in its opening week player, Alex Hunter, each week’s fixtures
band adopted an
alone, and that from after-school and injuries via online
industrial sound,
popularity isn’t limited In its stride knockabouts through Finishing updates. Fifa 18
which presented an Last year’s game school
to fans. Professional to his first signing (to extends this to pro
opportunity for them was built on a new
footballers also race a club of your choice) Fifa has long players’ performances.
to recapture their technical foundation,
to the shops to find and on up through supported new Stats will be tweaked
original anarchic the Frostbite Engine,
out how their real- the big leagues. This players with dynamic throughout the season,
spirit. “I was unhappy world performance which meant a year’s game picks up and effective tutorials accurately reflecting,
that we removed a has been transposed seismic upgrade in the story’s threads as that explain the say, how up-and-
lot of the instinctive, to the virtual pitch by graphics. Now, it’s in Hunter continues to basics of the game. coming stars such as
spontaneous stuff developer EA Canada’s use alongside motion- rise through the ranks, Its newest edition Kylian Mbappé perform
on the last record,” army of data analysts. capture technology now playing alongside extends this support in real life. Simon Parkin
he says. “I like music Fifa 18 promises an to create an array a broader cast in ever to intermediates and Fifa 18 is out on
that’s human and expansion to, and of running styles more diverse locations. veterans with training 29 September.
primal. That’s our deepening of, a game appropriate to each features that adapt to
strength. We’re that, year by year, player. You must now the difficulty level at
not considered, becomes ever more anticipate strides in which you play. For
technical musicians, beautiful. Here’s a order to time passes those competing at the
but we can still be four-frame preview... and shots, while the game’s highest level,
in The Horrors.” unique gaits of Lionel for instance, there will
Kevin Perry Messi and Cristiano be support in learning
V is out on Ronaldo are all realised the intricacies of the
22 September. on screen. new volley system.
THE
DESIGN
ARCHETYPE
Make yourself a home @SHITHEADSTEVE
Alice Rawsthorn builds a case for the Norwegian vision of a prefab future
Prefabs are back – were the prefabricated homes devel- word for a simple wooden structure)
in a good way. As oped in response to the post-war occupies 100 sq metres and includes
the demand for housing crisis by designers such as a living area, kitchen, bathroom and
housing continues Jean Prouvé and Charlotte Perriand three bedrooms. Manufactured by
to outstrip supply, in France and Richard Buckminster Rindalshytter, its components are
designers, architects, Fuller in the US. So what’s their shipped to whichever mountainous,
builders, local councils, contemporary equivalent, the design lakeside, wooded or coastal location
charities and property developers archetype of the new prefab boom? its owners have chosen, to be assem-
@FUCKJERRY
are racing to produce prefabricated The natty Muji hut, which goes on bled and fitted out in four months.
homes that can be constructed at a sale in Japan next spring for ¥3 million Snohetta designed the Gapahuk
fraction of the cost of conventional (around £20,000), is a possibility, but to be made from wood and have a
buildings – and the best come with at just nine sq metres it’s too small. pitched roof angled to form a porch
some serious style. The best contender is the larger, more that accommodates solar panels.
Prefabrication has a proud design sophisticated Gapahuk, designed by The first kits (£155,000 each) were
history. The great Victorian engineer Snohetta, the Norwegian architect delivered in Norway last summer.
Isambard Kingdom Brunel devised firm behind Oslo’s opera house and Rindalshytter has received enquiries
a military hospital as a kit of ready- the expanded San Francisco Museum from all over the world, including the
made parts to be built in Turkey Of Modern Art. UK, and has commissioned a smaller,
during the Crimean War. Some of the Described by Snohetta as a “social less costly version from Snohetta.
finest examples of modernist design cabin”, the Gapahuk (the Norwegian It’s an instant design classic. @FUCKJERRY
BAND into
TV On The Radio?
into
Yeah Yeah Yeahs?
O - M AT I C
try try
Re-Tros Wolf Alice
This Beijing-based post- One of Britain’s most
punk trio have become one searing live bands
of China’s biggest and most channel yet more of
into into
innovative bands. This year, their energy and invention
The Doors? Nina Simone?
they have their sights set on into this truly excellent
conquering the West.
try second record.
try
into
Before The Applause
LA Witch Visions Of A Life is out on
Benjamin Clementine
Primal Scream? Sounding and looking The singer and pianist
is out on 15 September. 29 September.
try like the bar band in a uses the story of his
Inheaven Quentin Tarantino flick, own journey from
Bassist Chloe Little and this Californian group have homeless teen to
guitarist James Taylor each recorded a debut full Mercury Prize winner as
take turns on lead vocals of sex, drugs and a prism for examining
as this four-piece mix noisy garage rock. the world. KP
rock’n’roll with dreamy pop. LA Witch is out on I Tell A Fly is out on
Inheaven is out now. 8 September. 15 September.
THE
WOMAN
T O W AT C H
DOBREV
From teenage soap star to
Toronto. Dobrev was just
two years old, but the
memories are still clear.
“For the first few years we
lived with another family
the lead in sci-fi reboot Flatliners,
in a two-bed apartment to
the Bulgarian-born Canadian is
save on rent,” she recalls.
jump-starting her Hollywood career
“For me, that was normal.”
From there, Dobrev grew
up with the full immigrant
experience. “We weren’t
allowed to speak English
at home and we’d eat weird
Bulgarian food.”
Feeling like an outsider
only hardened her
determination to perform.
First she channelled that
urge into gymnastics,
then, at 17, she got her
acting break in teen soap
Degrassi alongside a
pre-superstardom Drake
(“He hasn’t changed a bit”).
Next came The Vampire
Diaries along with a host
of supporting film roles,
including The Perks Of Being
A Wallflower. Now, the
28-year-old is taking the
lead in rebooted cult sci-fi
horror Flatliners. What does
she think of Hollywood’s
obsession with reboots?
“Any new idea is always
more interesting to watch,”
says Dobrev. “The thing
about Flatliners, though,
was that the original was
before its time. With
advances in technology and
what doctors can do now,
it could use a remake.”
The original helped forge
Photograph Mark Seliger/Art Partner
‘A’
GAME
No.34
Give a killer foot
massage
1 Assume the position
Masseuse to the stars Dot Stein, aka
Ask your partner to lie down with their
Dr Dot, counts everyone from Kanye feet just off the end of the bed. Sit in
West to Gwen Stefani among her between their legs with your feet on the
satisfied customers. Here is her ground. Start with their right foot: turn to
signature foot routine (repeat each your right and place it on your right thigh.
move at least three times)... Warm some massage oil in your hands.
Vanessa White
Wolffe
Dua Lipa
Max Lousada and
Sarah Close
THE
PAG E
David James
PARTY
Rob Evans
Alex Zane
Rhythm of the night
Heba Elemara
and Becca Dudley
Snoochie Shy
Myleene Klass
Alexander James
The
TO READ
GQ
We need to rules
talk about men How to dad
Some hard-won
With Peep Show now over, Robert Webb has been
advice from a
thinking about men. The comedian and writer’s new
book, How Not To Be A Boy, is part literary memoir –
new(ish) father
recounting his relationship with an abusive father, his
mother’s death and coming of age – and part political Only a fool doesn’t
manifesto on masculinity. We met him to discuss keep a “blocker” hand
mental health, fatherhood and literary ambitions. in their pocket while
carrying an infant in a
GQ: Why How Not To Be A Boy? papoose. Your chances
of re-procreation,
RW: I’m not famous enough to do an actual depend on it.
autobiography. I read Caitlin Moran’s How To Be
A Woman and I wondered if there was room for a Bribe regularly and
unapologetically.
complementary book from a male perspective. To Children are immune
start with, it was going to be a wry survey on men’s to threats.
magazines and things like Top Gear, and then I
realised I had no interest in writing that book at all. It’s OK to use your
child as a social
But gender conditioning in men is under-discussed. crutch. Consider
“You’re looking tired”
GQ: Men’s magazines. Are we the baddies? as an acceptable way
How Not To Be A Boy by Robert
to teleport yourself
RW: It’s not that. We did a sketch called “Man’s Hour”. Webb (Canongate Books, £16.99)
is out now. out of any situation.
It was like, “We’re going to talk about films that touch
on men’s issues. Well, all films, really. Can we really GQ: One of the main focuses is a taboo about men You will never be
talk about testicular cancer again?” Men don’t have discussing mental health. approached by more
beautiful women
“issues”. But, actually, start with the way we’re told to RW: It feels very brave to say I’m seeing a therapist than when you’re
stop crying as children. Once you start thinking about again – why should it? It’s astonishing. You don’t with your child.
gender conditioning, you see it everywhere. have to be suicidal to seek help. I just became Enjoy fatherhood’s
secret bonus
inexplicably miserable most weekends. I wasn’t
with impunity.
‘It feels very brave to say taking responsibility for my health in the way that
my family deserved. I had a lot of trouble giving up There is one toy
I’m seeing a therapist again, smoking and moderating my drinking. So it’s worth that allows you to
but why should it?’ taking responsibility. I think in some ways I’m trying
play without ever
leaving the sofa.
to father myself. Gentlemen, I give
GQ: Did becoming a father change your view? you the helicopter.
RW: I didn’t want to be one of those guys who only GQ: Are there plans for another book?
If tedious drug
gets it when they have their own daughters, but I RW: It was a two-book deal, so there’s an idea for a anecdotes define
probably am. You start seeing the world through their novel. And I’d like to write more novels. Working with conversations
eyes. You go to a baby store and immediately the shop David [Mitchell] was brilliant, but while we were doing with irritating
twentysomethings,
assistant comes over with this look, like, “Do you Peep Show we saw more of each other than two people tedious effluence
know how many months old your baby is?” I was who are not in love ought to. We’re still really good anecdotes define
there. I can count. friends. I miss him, really. Oliver Franklin-Wallis conversations
with irritating
thirtysomethings.
Despite its confusingly European name, Dinings has continually
been one of the finest places in town to set chopsticks to sushi Fatherhood is no
ever since it opened in Marylebone back in 2006. This off- excuse for Crocs.
the-beaten-track Japanese is hardly a grand affair compared There is absolutely
to the haute izakaya of Mayfair: Dinings comprises two no excuse for Crocs.
floors that are confined and sparsely furnished. Yet there’s
a cosmopolitan cachet to raw fish that endures even in less- A word about
than-blingy surroundings, and it draws beau mondes across “sharenting”: no
the threshold of Dinings week after week. Of course, that’s self-respecting man
because the raw fish in question is terrific. Yes, there are hot should Instagram a
THE options on the menu (don’t miss the wagyu with truffle and snap of his offspring
ponzu jelly, right), but the traditional sushi dishes, such as fatty from a public
POWER “O-toro” tuna are the stars of the show. A new branch of Dinings account. Your child
LUNCH has just opened in Knightsbridge. It’s just as well they made it is not a social media
considerably bigger. 22 Harcourt Street, W1. dinings.co.uk O The power seat is No6 engagement strategy.
Matthew Jones
THE
RUMOUR
MILL
by
alex wickham
HOW TO
The slashie the slashie is due to the
fact that so many young
Why have one job when you could have two? Or three? Or four? people now must have
SPOT... Jonathan Heaf counts the ways of the multihyphenate careerist a range of jobs in order
to eat. But perhaps it’s
also an excuse not to do
Remember your answer Oh, how one longs for loved above all else – good enough for anyone any real work at all. The
to that most pressing of such times of rudderless in my case magazines – young or old – just to slashie is able to conjure
questions: “What do you ambition. When I was – you stuck at it, clocking have one job. Or even an Insta-career, or
want be when you grow growing up, it was up the required 10,000 two. Welcome to the careers, turning one’s
up?” Although, as a perfectly acceptable to hours until you hit golden era of the slashie half-baked ideas or
naive and badly dressed dither. Try advertising “getting away with – a person who is dalliances into a sellable
school leaver, you may – sure. Get your foot in it”. Now, since the a something-slash- business strategy.
have offered up various the door of the music emergence of millennials, something-else and, After all, have you ever
notions of apologetic industry – no problem. influence rs and digital occasionally, slash- met a neurosurgeon/
grandeur (“A hedge- Get work experience at natives, it’s no longer something-else again. architect? Unlikely.
Illustration Jonathan Allardyce
fund manager?”) or the local paper – OK. Of course, patient Because those that are
glamorous philanthropy The working world was In LA, I was zero for the slashie is either brain surgeons
(“An NGO working for competitive, but if you the model-slash-actor, or master builders
Sean Penn in Haiti?”), could support yourself
introduced a handsome man who know the value of a life
the correct and honest for a few years, you to a noise has aspirations of being dedicated to the pursuit
answer for many years
should have been “I
could figure it all out.
Still, when one came
architect/ a thesp. Someone, for
example, such as Jamie
of excellence in their
chosen field. Rather
don’t have a clue. PR?” across that thing one sand artist Dornan pre-The Fall. Or than, well, a side hustle.
gievesandhawkes.com
DETAILS
THE
ENTREPRENEUR
James Park
The cofounder and CEO of the £6 billion activity tracker company Fitbit, which now
has more than 23.6 million active users worldwide, reveals what he has learned
Story by Eleanor Halls Photographs Christian Peacock/The Forbes Collection; Getty Images; Mariko Reed; Rex
1999 out, I was interested in its sensors,
Cofounded B2B
infrastructure software company
as well as how it turned gaming into
Epesi Technologies something friendly and active. This
was technology with positive
2002
Cofounded digital photo-sharing
impacts. I wanted to put this magic
service Wind-Up Labs into something more portable.”
From left: James Park with cofounder 2005
Eric Friedman in 2015; the Fitbit Blaze
Director of product development,
Hire up CNET Networks
2017
“In software you can make
Revenue in range of £1.2bn mistakes and learn from
them cheaply; in hardware
Go public or go home every mistake is expensive to
“Going public is good for fix and takes much longer. If I
investors and employees. could go back, I’d make sure
Ours was the largest we were better capitalised to
From left: The Fitbit app;
consumer electronics cushion our mistakes and
the San Francisco HQ IPO in US history.” sleep sounder at night!”
80 GQ.CO.UK OCTOBER 2017
real watches for real people
New
Welcome to GQ’s…
House
Rules
Jonathan Heaf
Photograph Alpha
EDITED BY
2. Earring by
THOMAS SABO, £129
could be
the best
The late, great Glenn O’Brien, former Interview
magazine editor, wrote in his book, How To Be A
Man, “I suppose there can be a piratical rakishness to a
mistake
certain type of fellow with a ring in his ear and a gleam
in his eye, but mostly earrings seem like a big mistake.” you’ll ever
Men’s jewellery – mewellery? – is a contentious issue.
Almost as much as that portmanteau. Classicists will
maintain that the only acceptable jewellery on a man is
make
Double cross: Billy Idol rocks 3. Earring by
the watch or signet ring. One fulfils a practical purpose in SIMON CARTER, £30.
a piercing and so can you
an elegant fashion while the other signifies gentility and At Asos. asos.com
class. “Mewellery” – stick with us – on the whole seems
to hark back to an ancient time when men had to flaunt Speaking of piratical rakishness, O’Brien could well have been thinking of Keith
their wealth by gilding their body with it. It is the most Richards of The Rolling Stones, or perhaps Lenny Kravitz, or Johnny Thunders of The
nakedly conspicuous form of conspicuous consumption. Heartbreakers, all of whom have made rocking earrings into personal style statements.
So earrings are a mistake. But, for the right man, we Richards often wears either a simple ring or one made from a wolf’s tooth, which he’ll
believe it could be the best mistake you’ll ever make. accessorise with that infamous silver skull ring and a wrist festooned with bracelets.
Mistakes are often the difference between a merely As a general rule, avoid stones, precious or otherwise, and opt for simple rings in
well-dressed man and one who can be considered a style metals with a matt finish. Kravitz also goes in for this low-key approach by wearing
icon (see Gianni Agnelli and countless other purveyors moderately sized gold earrings. Inspiration also be found in actor Tom Sturridge, too.
of Italian sprezzatura). Mistakes maketh the man. Or, at He’s able to carry off a dangly hoop’n’ear ornament with some serious aplomb.
the very least, means he won’t be forgotten in a hurry. Meanwhile, pointed wolf teeth, hoops with little skulls, feathers and other motifs
And in a world where almost anyone with money and are for the most daring only. But then an outfit without risk is a uniform. After all,
a Wi-Fi connection can buy oven-ready “good taste” Kiefer Sutherland made a whole generation of women swoon in The Lost Boys with
straight off the internet, earrings could be just the thing his ear plumage. On a similar rock-goth tip, Billy Idol gets away with the most daring
for those who want to stand out. Sometimes in fashion, a “mewellery” – last time, we promise – manoeuvre of all: the classic silver crucifix. Time
little bit of silly, can go a long way. It shows confidence. to test out your rebel yell and let your ears do the talking.
By Jonathan Heaf
Where do fashion
editors
wash
I know an editor of a certain
mens’ title – not this one – who
has a way of dealing with the
build-up of dirty laundry at his
home. He simply waits. Then,
on confirming his attendance
in LA for some juicing
conference or other, proceeds
to pack the entire contents of
their
his linen basket into a separate
suitcase. He flies. He checks in.
He calls down to the concierge
to ask them to collect his case
of smelly smalls.
Twenty-four hours later he
has a suitcase full of clean
clothes to take home, while
the hotel bill is handled by his
smalls?
clueless publisher. Taking into
consideration the cost of the
flight, plus the five-star hotel’s
extortionate laundry fees (as
of June the Sunset Tower in
Hollywood charges $30 for a
pair of socks), that has to be
the most expensive express
this side of Qatar.
In an effort to avoid being
So what to do? Well,
rinsed by hotels, journalists
according to the New York
are going local when it comes
Times, fashion editors are
to their personals...
getting wise. As the biannual
four-week long fashion week
seasons takes them to London,
Paris, Milan and New York, in
an effort to save money – or
at least keep what is left of
their diminishing budgets for
the cocktail float – they are
proposing a little pragmatism.
Who knew, right? Rather than
putting their Commes Des
Garçons coats, Thom Browne
Photographs Advertising Archives; Mark Kean; Albert Sanchez
a wr ter
dressing up for the story.”
Thoughtful style com-
mentary is a speciality
of literary giants. Indeed,
there is a tradition of it in
the US. Wolfe’s essay on
the semiotics of bespoke
buttonholes, “The Secret
Vice”, and Talese’s piece
about his tailor father,
“The Scion, The Stitch And
The Wardrobe”, are clas-
sics within their respective
canons. In both you will
find great wit and joy in
Tom Wolfe
the art of dressing well –
T H E WAY T H E Y W E A R
lovingly and eloquently
conveyed. You’ll also find
deep truths, not just of
Style and substance clothes, but of men and big cashmere cardigans.
have much in their place in the world. They also love bespoke
common, as these Yet somehow it’s consid- details and care deeply
men of letters and ered beneath “thinking” about craftsmanship. A
AA Gill
silk-lined suits prove men to care about style, new suit is often a reward
much less write about it. after they’ve finished
By Alfie Tong
“In literary and academic a book. I think getting
circles it’s possible to be dressed properly helps to
‘You pretentious lush!’ Writer’s block? Five ways to dress your way out of a literary slump
Corduroy!
brown corduroy to great
effect for her Autumn/
Winter collection, mod-
ernising the material with
leather detailing on the
pockets – Gigi Hadid and
Zayn Malik seemed to
approve for their recent
appearance in US Vogue.
This season, the grand-
master of modern Italian
(Not just for seedy supply teachers) preppiness, Br unello
Take note this autumn, the class favourite
Fantastic Mr Fox
Robert Redford in All fashion at the moment, so
The President’s Men, with our collection focuses on
authority and a temper. casual sartorial,” Cucinelli
This autumn, corduroy is tells GQ. “Your look always
back in favour with many has to start with a jacket
designers. When treated fit that highlights the
with a disciplined cut physique. Corduroy is
I used to have a history he used to wear all year – think Wes Anderson’s perfect for this autumn
teacher called Mr Brighton. round. It wasn’t a carpet- suits or the replicas made – a sports-luxe fabric par
He was part-time, from what thick, chain-mail-heavy, for his Fantastic Mr Fox excellence. Its lightness is
I remember, and had a habit s a g g y- i n - t h e - c r o t c h – it’s a material that can fantastic for movement
of mumbling. He also used suit. Nor a fusty number give superb narrow shape, and it’s always important to
Photographs Advertising Archives; Getty Images;
to fly into terrible rages, where the raised “wale”, while also being blissful take pleasure in the touch
not least when hapless day- or ridges, had been worn to wear through a chilly and feel of the fabric.”
dreaming students got crucial down at the contact points working day in September. If chestnut or chocolate
historical dates wrong. He (elbows, backside). hues feel too retro for your
once turned over an entire No, this suit appeared suiting needs, there’s good
desk – textbooks, pens and almost bespoke. Fitted, news: the new corduroy is
Jacket by BRUNELLO
Inez & Vinoodh; XPosure
a half-eaten Mars bar went skyward – when a classmate sharp and with hemlines about trousers in lavender,
CUCINELLI, £1,960.
failed to remember when precisely the Archduke Franz that neither puddled at the brunellocucinelli.com fine pin-chord blazers in
Ferdinand of Austria was assassinated. Harsh? Well, hardly ankles nor were frayed. blushing pinks and even
compared to what Mr Deaton the rugby coach used to do He was the most stylish suiting in a washed teal –
to us. (And I never forgot 28 June 1914 again.) man in school because perfect for history teachers
For all his failings in academia, what Mr Brighton did of it and while every who want to look like any-
have was a beautiful, chestnut-coloured corduroy suit that other male teacher wore thing but history teachers.
Clockwise from left: Hermès Autumn/Winter 2017; A$AP Rocky; Skepta; Jared Leto
Harry Styles
Remember when David
Since when did 2 Beckham had the golden
balls to start rocking
BIKER KEYS
a chain’n’wallet combo?
Although some sallow-
faced hipsters groaned,
part of what Becks had
hit on made total style
sense – why not make
the keys to your road hog
part of your look? Even if
3
your “hog” happens to be
become a
a five-door Volvo estate?
Although the trend
originated from bikers
who needed to secure
their keys while out on
the road (and was soon
appropriated by skaters/
emo kids), one should
heed the mistakes of
such style mavericks.
thing?
Anything too long and
dangly – too chainy –
looks like something
Fred Durst would have
worn in the nu-metal era;
anything with too many
keys or trinkets attached
will make you look either
like a peacocking jailer
or a five-year-old’s school
4
backpack. For best results
follow Pharrell: choose
5 a single, well-suited key
Could a mass of metal be the missing hook (his is a yellow,
link in your look? Unlock your potential diamond-dusted climbing
– think Pharrell Williams rather than hook, natch) and attach
Fred Durst – with our gilt-edged guide to your right-hand belt
loop. Clip in and try to
Photographs Josh Caudwell; Getty Images; Rex; Xposure
act natural.
Pharrell Williams
1. Jacket, £1,670.
Belt, £390. Both by
Styling Jake Pummintr Assistant Simon King
By Jonathan Heaf
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI.
brunellocucinelli.com
2. Trousers by THE KOOPLES,
Brooklyn Beckham
£195. thekooples.co.uk
3. Loop keyring by
ASPINAL OF LONDON,
£30. aspinaloflondon.com
4. Arrow keyring by
LANVIN, £245. lanvin.com
5. Snake keyring, £205. Tiger
keyring, £205. Both by GUCCI.
At matchesfashion.com
G New House Rules
Brunchtime rush:
Dine before 1pm for a far The It-brush
finer service experience
A crowdsourced wall of almost
1,000 items of 20th- and 21st-
century consumer products at
the new Design Museum features
the usual blah blah – Apple,
Rimowa etc – and exactly one
tool you can trust: a toothbrush.
It’s by Curaprox, it’s from
Switzerland and its multi-hued
(not tutti-frutti) colours can
be accounted for by the fact
it launched in 1972, the creative
zenith of “learning is fun!” Buy
one and don’t forget to floss. BP
If you have to stop for sustenance, why not do it in style? Choose an early sitting
for extra breathing space, snappier service and much more select company
eating
balmy summer’s day. Well, apart from Piers and
myself, it turned out Charlie flippin’ Watts, that’s
who – the man, lest we forget, who half a lifetime
ago, described drumming in The Rolling Stones as
“five years work and 20 years of waiting around”.
Except he wasn’t – waiting around that is. He
was halfway through his minestrone as I arrived
(courteously early) and was gone soon after in a
lunch
raffish blur of full bespoke and rolled-up Evening
Standard. Now, sitting down at 11.30am might
seem a little extreme (and possibly the province of
someone who wishes to evade detection by fans),
but noon seems a good time to get on with the one
necessary interruption in an otherwise productive
working day. Go early, my friend, and the dining
room will be yours, the staff attentive and the
early
servings swift. Arrive at the all-comers convening
hour of 1pm and you’ll take your turn checking in
with the maître d’, jockey for your table and wait at
least 15 minutes for the water sommelier to notice
your dry-mouthed cries for help. Arrive at noon,
and you’ll also be leaving just as the real shower
arrives, the culinary tyre-kickers and self-styled
bon viveurs intent on extending their “working
By Bill Prince
lunches” into the early evening. Brrrr.
OCTOBER 2017 GQ.CO.UK 93
G New House Rules
Cryptocurrency is for losers, How do I buy some? What are the risks?
Good news: you don’t have to Buying cryptocurrency is a
*
right?
buy a whole Bitcoin – at the crapshoot. It’s highly volatile:
time of writing, that would cost the last time the US stock
you £1,900. Instead, you can market fell by more than 10 per
snap up as tiny a fraction of cent in a day was back in 1957;
one as you please. The most Bitcoin has seen more than 10
user-friendly method is to per cent wiped off its value 38
download a free mobile app times since January 2012. A
called Coinbase. You can transfer cryptocurrency could also be
local currency to your Coinbase obliterated overnight. Should
“wallet” via a credit or debit major governments regulate
card and buy or sell Bitcoin at hard against it or hackers
the click of a button for a small manage to break its security,
fee. Coinbase also lets you that’s your money up in smoke.
invest in two rising-star “alt What’s more, criminals have
coins”: Ethereum and Litecoin. been stealing from online
wallets (though that is
*(Yeah. Soon to be filthy rich losers) Alt coins? avoidable: keep your
These are cryptocurrencies other cryptocurrency offline if you
Get this: anyone who What exactly is Bitcoin?
invested £300 in Bitcoin six
than Bitcoin and there are own a significant amount).
years ago will now be sitting Bitcoin is a digital currency hundreds of them. Some have
on a cool £13.8 million. If whose every coin and transaction been set up as a joke, such as How much could I make?
you did exactly that and are is tracked on a huge database Dogecoin (because: geeky Depends on who you listen to.
currently reading this over
a glass of Armand De
called the blockchain. Rather internet memes), but others – The doom mongers say that
Brignac aboard your 100ft than existing in one place, this including Monero, Ripple and we’re in a cryptocurrency bubble
superyacht, then bully for database is held by all Bitcoin Dash – have the potential to that’s about to burst (indeed, the
you. If, however, you don’t users. Like any currency, it go far. Ethereum, which recently market has taken a downturn
Photographs Alamy; Getty Images Disclaimer: This article should not be taken as, and is not intended to provide, investment advice.
understand what Bitcoin is,
let alone know how to get
has a value in terms of others won backing from Microsoft and recently), while others believe
– dollars or pounds – and, as JP Morgan Chase, is up 900 per a single Bitcoin could be worth
Please conduct your own thorough research before investing in any cryptocurrency. All information correct at time of writing.
hold of any, it’s time to gen
up. There could well be people have become interested in cent this year. $500,000 by 2030. A handful of
more money to be made and its potential, Bitcoin’s value has GQ staffers have already made
chances are that someone
soared. It has been the best- a small profit (count that as our
you know has already
bought in. Got fomo? performing currency globally full disclosure). If you end up
Here’s a quick-start guide... every year since 2010 (apart from hitting pay dirt, make ours
$2,500 2014 when it was, err, the worst). a double. Charlie Burton
= 1oz
$500
Price of Bitcoin
$0
2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
$75M
120,000 Bitcoins
Microsoft stolen by hackers
begins accepting from the Bitfinex
Bitcoin for games exchange
A brief history February 2012
and apps
in venture
of Bitcoin Bitcoin Magazine capital funding November 2016 April 2017
Since the creation of launches Swiss rail Japan makes
the first Bitcoin in 2009, June 2011 September 2012 operator SBB Bitcoin a
the cryptocurrency has WIkiLeaks begins Bitcoin upgrades ticket legal currency
had a roller-coaster ride. to accept Bitcoin Foundation machines to
Herewith, a timeline... for donations starts ups sell Bitcoin
Lapo Elkann
Stepping out in a
Belgian slipper is no
longer the preserve By Alfie Tong
of fading playboys.
Now even the edgiest
style set are giving
this classic shoe a
run for its money
The Belgian slipper, with
its ridiculous little bow on
the front, is a rather silly
and effete-looking shoe.
And that’s a good thing.
No, really. We mean that
in the best possible way.
It could be argued that Bernie
after qualities like
“superlative comfort”, Madoff
Mario Testino
“elegant silhouette” and
“superior craftsmanship”, was said
the reassuring whiff of
ironic playboy flash is
the difference between
to have
a perfectly nice shoe and
an icon.
owned “fashionable”, finding
favour not only with
The Belgian slipper falls
into the icon category (see 300 Upper East Side wasps
(its traditional base)
also the Gucci loafer and
the Tod’s driving shoe).
This is the anti-Corbyn,
pairs but also downtown
designers who wear them
on their skateboards.
master-of-the-universe, In London, start-up
greed-is-good shoe. Bernie shoe company Baudoin
Madoff, the notorious & Lange is hoping to
Ponzi scheme rip-off create a Belgian loafer
merchant, was said to have phenomenon in the UK,
owned 300 pairs of these Take a bow: Belgian Shoes while Neapolitan tailoring
bad boys. And like the has been making their slippers house Rubinacci also Photographs Getty Images; Matt Martin; Roger Stillman
Gucci loafer, it has recently, for more than 300 years makes its own version,
and quietly, become or go to Belgian Shoes
for the original.
John Rushton, London
stockist of Baudoin &
Lange’s interpretation
(unlined for extra comfort),
says, “It’s a shoe that you
either love or hate, a bit
like the Gucci loafer.
Those that love it have
style and those that do
not, don’t!” Dress for the
bank balance you want,
Slippers by BELGIAN SHOES, from £335. belgianshoes.com not the one you have.
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Skepta’s new range of wavy
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Boy better know…
SAILING
Noel Gallagher’s Roxy Music
RISING SUN GUILTY VENUS LAP 1 Next LP sounding very
YACHT A
Bryan Ferry, apparently.
Rowans Bowling,
Music Russian
Greek
Laurene Finsbury Park
magnate oligarch Powell Jobs Fiat heir Fashion’s latest venue for
OWNER David Andrey
billionaire
(wife of the Lapo Elkann
Dakis Joannou an ironic night out.
Geffen Melnichenko late Steve)
Jack
Another
Warner’s A $750 billion
MY OTHER former estate
boat, An art
technology
A Fiat 500, also
BOAT IS... in Beverly
Motor foundation
company
customised Shirt suspenders
Yacht A You deserve to never
Hills
have sex again.
Clunky thick-soled
fashion trainers
T H R E E WAYS TO W E A R : A W H I T E T U X E D O M A ST E R T H E M O N O C H R O M E L I K E
Cool or just high-vis stroke shoes?
M c CO N AU G H E Y W I T H O U R T R I O O F D I N N E R JAC K E T R U L E S A N D R E G U L AT I O N S
OUR STUFF
This month: Robin Key, Photographic Director
A peek inside the life luggage of GQ’s plugged-in staff
Style
and grooming
Jacket: Ami (pictured)
Denim: APC (pictured)
Trainers: Reebok (below)
Go-to T-shirt: Margaret Howell
Emma Williams With thanks to Rochelle Canteen
EDITED BY
AARON CALLOW
1
PHOTOGRAPH BY
DAMIAN RUSSELL
4
6
10
7
8
1 Mirrors by Caravane, from £37 each. 5 Prints by Lane, from £45 each.
caravane.fr lanebypost.com
2 Basin by Ex-t, £1,080. ex-t.com. Shaving 6 Radiator by Bisque, from £408.
brush, £30. Razor, £35. Both by Wild & Wolf. bisque.co.uk
wildandwolf.com. Tap by Ritmonio, from 7 Flooring by Element 7, £280 a sq m.
£322. ritmonio.it element7.co.uk
3 Planters by Thelermont Hupton, from 8 Bin by Soak & Sleep, £28. soakandsleep.com
£10 each. thelermonthupton.com. Plants
by Phillo, from £6 each. philloflowers.com 9 Planter by Urban Outfitters, £15.
urbanoutfitters.com
4 Bath, £2,825. Taps, £1,570. Bath rack, £300.
All by Victoria + Albert. vandabaths.com. 10 Towel by Jonathan Adler, £98.
11 Speaker by B&O Play, £299. beoplay.com. uk.jonathanadler.com
Soap by Wild & Wolf, £10. wildandwolf.com 11 Stool by Made, £69. made.com G
OCTOBER 2017 GQ.CO.UK 103
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E D I T E D BY MATTHEW JONES
I
n the pioneering days of motor- Now, as we ease the Chiron, all users will ever locate. So ponder the
ing, cars were such an infer- £2.5 million and 1,479bhp of it, into lengths to which Bugatti has gone to
nal nuisance that legislators the gloopy, mid-morning traffic, plot- make a car with 1,479bhp work in
demanded a man walked ahead ting a course across Mayfair to The every market around the world that
while waving a red flag. Such Dorchester hotel, we’re followed its parent company, Volkswagen, sells
were the perils of an automobile that the whole way by that peculiar breed cars in, and one that delivers the endur-
could do 10mph. of auto paparazzi that have staked out ance of a Golf in an Arctic blizzard or a
More than a century later, we’re ser- one corner of the internet. The Chiron’s desert in Dubai (more likely the latter).
enaded by the modern equivalent: the top speed might be 261mph – the limit The Veyron, the Chiron’s remarkable
YouTuber brandishing a smartphone. of the tyres’ capability, not the car itself The predecessor, was described as the auto-
Central London being one of the key – but right now it’s doing one of the Chiron’s motive world’s “Concorde moment” by
global destinations for hypercars, the other things it’s very good at: going James May on an episode of Top Gear,
latest, the Bugatti Chiron has been a as slowly as is dramatically possible.
engine but for various reasons – some emotion-
mobile electromagnet for the past hour In an Instagram world, this is manna does al, others fiscally pragmatic – mankind
in Carnaby Street. It’s a car of such vast
shock value and presence that tourists
from heaven.
But it might also make the Chiron
unholy stepped away from that supersonic
achievement. Bugatti, though, has come
have literally been falling over them- the world’s most singularly pointless things back for more.
selves to get a closer look. You can’t
blame them: chances are, they’ll never
vehicle. Most cars are actually over-
engineered and even the humblest
to fuel So what is it like? You get asked
that a lot when people find out you’ve
see another one in their lifetimes. airport rental has depths none of its and air driven a Chiron and the answer is simple
yet also surprisingly complicated. sensations genuinely do occur in the terms of torsional rigidity and Wallace
It’s monumentally fast, of course, but pit of your stomach. It’s mostly pleas- tells me the Chiron is as stiff as a Le
so much more besides. The day before ant, although the rapidity with which Mans Prototype One World Endurance
we rocked London, GQ had six hours traffic up ahead arrives in the wind- racing car. This probably explains at
in the countryside to acclimatise, in screen is terrifying to begin with. least some of those strange sensations
the company of Bugatti test driver The experience is dominated by its (and also accounts for, oh, about £1m
Andy Wallace. Now retired, Wallace engine. In the Chiron, you’re always of the £2.5m cost of the car).
was a phenomenally accomplished aware that something vast and other- It would be a shame if the Chiron’s
racing driver, a winner at Le Mans in worldly is doing unholy things to fuel oily bits and colossal numbers over-
the famous Silk Cut Jaguar XJR-9LM and air right behind your head. It’s whelmed its status as a design object.
in 1988, who set a world record for eight litres in capacity and features 16 The project was overseen by the talented
the fastest production car a decade cylinders and four turbochargers, like Achim Anscheidt, who has somehow
later in the McLaren F1 (240.14mph). the Veyron, but uses so many new com- reconciled aesthetics with the extreme
Now he does customer handovers for ponents that it becomes more than just aerodynamics that govern a car like this.
Bugatti, a whole new hair-raising career an evolution. The turbos, for example, The big C on the Chiron’s body side is
dimension, for which his gentle but are now much bigger and to avoid the clever and the spine line directly refer-
wry demeanour is well suited. “It’s a chronic lag that would normally result, ences the Thirties Type 57 Atlantic (if
pity we’re not on a runway today,” he exhaust gases are fed through two of you’re going to pay homage to some-
tells me. “The Chiron really comes alive them below 3,800rpm, after which thing, it might as well be this – just ask
above 150mph.” the other two join the party. There’s Ralph Lauren). The interior is the work
This is a car that needs a runway. a new, beefier crankshaft, but it’s no of a young Frenchman called Etienne
It only gets into its stride when most heavier than before and the conrods Salomé, who maxed out on the material
other cars are done. Even so, anything are also stronger but weigh the same. quality while ensuring the Chiron’s cabin
that can accelerate to 62mph in 2.5 No fewer than eleven radiators help is future-proofed. So forget about central
seconds, 124mph in 6.5 and 186mph in cool the beast. touch screens and apps that will order
under 13.6 seconds is perfectly capable The car’s structure is more remark- next Tuesday’s lunch and revel instead
of rearranging vital internal organs on able still: its chassis is made of carbon in milled aluminium indicator stalks and
a normal road. That’s a standard part fibre with a layer of aluminium honey- a level of detail so obsessive the audio
of the road tester’s lexicon, but the comb in its core and the body panels volume controls on the steering wheel are
Chiron moves so quickly that strange are all carbon, too. Engineers talk in specially coated and the button for the
interior light trimmed in leather. “I even
inquired about removing the airbag logo
on the steering wheel,” Salomé tells me.
His efforts reward you even as you
crawl through London’s streets. The
quality is immense, the experience all-
consuming. A car this powerful shouldn’t
be so absurdly docile, as it shows lesser
pretenders in Knightsbridge how it’s
done. Sure, you don’t want to kiss any
kerbs (the wheels and tyres are very,
very valuable) and God help you if you
chance upon any of the capital’s noto-
Window shopping: The Chiron rious width restrictors. (I once loaned
captures attention on London’s Boris Johnson a brand new Aston Martin
Brompton Road
and he nerfed all four wheels in one go.)
But the seven-speed, dual-clutch trans-
mission is as smooth at walking speed
as it is at 200mph, despite having to
harness the same amount of torque as
an 18-wheeler. Or a jumbo jet. It is, in
every sense, astonishing.
The Chiron also goes round corners
more smoothly and satisfyingly than
the Veyron ever did and sheds its vast
speed with the same savage implaca-
bility with which it accelerates. Does
any of this really matter to the 500
people who’ll actually end up owning
a Chiron? Probably not. They’ll be too
busy enjoying the ultimate statement
car, one that does its best work, para-
doxically, at precisely 0mph.
Mercedes’
spa day
on wheels
The new amped-up
AMG S-Class is a
603bhp back rub
STORY BY Matthew Jones
his is the new Mercedes-
T
Class in session:
AMG S63 S-Class – a car The S63 – now with
that doesn’t just tell you that built-in hot-stone massage
you’ve “arrived”, but tells
you that you’ve arrived at might have dropped down in capacity
the GQ Men Of The Year Awards (we from 5.5-litres to 4.0, but power’s up
only supply our winners with the very by an impressive 27hp, so you can hit
best transportation). And like every 62mph in a mind-bending 3.5 seconds,
model in the history of the S-Class, it’s helped in no small part by a new nine-
as much a glimpse into the future of speed transmission and fully variable
the automotive industry as it is a car. 4Matic+ all-wheel-drive system.
Even though this is “just” a midlife Then there’s the spa. The AMG has
refresh, there are still a lot of new been fitted with “energising comfort
developments as Mercedes pushes control”, which gathers the car’s climate
towards its goal of making fully auton- control, massage, fragrancing and enter-
omous vehicles in just three years. The tainment functions and focuses them
new S-Class now uses even more navi- on a selection of moods. Choose from
gation and road data to do the driving options such as “joy” or “vitality” and
for you, so it can slow down for round- It’s as it sets the lighting to a befitting colour,
abouts and tight corners, keep you much a pumps out a specially designed fra-
within the speed limit and make sure grance, gives you a suitable rubdown
you never crash along a potholed road glimpse (with optional hot stones – yes, really)
too quickly again. into the and plays music intended to enhance
Yet for a car that can do so much of
the driving itself, it gives you plenty of
future as your mood. All of which means that you
may arrive in the new S, but you might
reasons to take the wheel. The engine it is a car not want to get out.
a Disturbing London Smart car, which is based on the 89bhp Smart Fortwo tuned by
Brabus. The two models, a coupé and a convertible, are both finished in deep matt-black
and rose-gold paintwork and feature an arctic-grey interior designed in collaboration
with Oliver Spencer, an uprated media package and, that most useful of urban
automotive accessories, parking sensors.
The two cars, which inspire models now available to buy, are an expression of what
Oburota calls a new kind of luxury. “We wanted to bring [Smart] to an audience galvanised
by exclusivity, limited runs and a nomadic lifestyle. This is how new luxe is perceived. It is
G
muted; it is exclusive; it is complex but simple.” And it’s yours for £15,895. MJ
Chuck Norris
The legend returns GQ joins television’s most
famous Texas Ranger and Fiat
Professional’s next-gen vans
on the set of a new campaign
G Partnership
WE’RE on set in a kitchen in a metal-rod Professional vehicle,” explains the Professional and the Way Of The Dragon
factory on the outskirts of Ljubljana. In communication manager. star, who embodies the brand’s values of
shot, a cowboy is deftly slicing vegetables. The creative minds behind the concept, determination, reliability, dynamism, public
The camera cuts to a drop of water that is including the campaign’s hashtag empathy and strength.
threatening to fall from the kitchen tap. #BeChuckOrBePro, have just left a meeting Later that week, Fiat Professional shoots
Next, a close-up of the cowboy’s face. It’s with Norris and are delighted by the an action movie with its new ambassador.
Chuck Norris. He scowls at the drop and it encounter. “When I told him I did kung fu,” The star this time is the Ducato, the only
slinks back up inside the tap. A slogan says one, “he got up and wanted to throw a van on which Norris can rely to get the
appears: “Chuck Norris’ sink never leaks.” few punches with me.” This is the start of a job done.
According to meme mythology, Norris is lasting partnership between Fiat Behind the wheel of the Ducato, Norris is
the man to whom “a lie detector machine chased by four world-renowned stuntmen
confessed its darkest secrets”, the man who on motocross bikes, creating the kinds of
“built the hospital he was born in” and who special effects more commonly seen on the
“gave Death a near-Chuck experience”. star’s iconic American series Walker, Texas
Once a legend of action films and Ranger: wheelies, off-road racing and
television, Norris has now been breathtaking crashes. Norris’ wife, Gena
immortalised online. It’s this viral power O’Kelly, who is also his hair and make-up
that persuaded Fiat Professional to bring artist, watches from behind the cameras
him onboard as the face of a new ad and jokes, “It’s been almost eleven years
campaign for its commercial vehicles – the since the internet turned my husband into
Ducato, Fullback, Telento, Fiorino and a superhero. Now he’s starting to really
Doblò Cargo – and GQ is here for an believe it.”
exclusive peek behind the scenes of the The Ducato is powered by Fiat’s Multijet
week’s filming near the Slovenian capital. 180bhp engine and offers more than 10,000
“The idea behind the campaign is that configurations. Its 2.1 ton payload and 17
you’re either Chuck Norris, who can cubic metre capacity is “best in class”. Fiat
do everything effortlessly, or a real Professional is an FCA brand, created to
professional – in which case you need a Fiat engineer and produce commercial vehicles.
W Transformer Pro by Asus
With a rear support that lets you
adjust the screen angle and a big-
buttoned keyboard that comes
complete with a mouse trackpad, the
Asus ventures far into laptop territory
and has the physical heft to match.
£1,099. asus.com
REVERT
TO TYPE
The latest iPad and its
competitors come equipped S Pixel C by Google
with smart covers and The Pixel has perhaps the most
satisfying keyboard attachment,
lightweight keyboards a sturdy magnetic flip-up flap,
– meaning your next tablet and as such is the best here for
actually typing on your lap. The
is also your next laptop ten-inch screen is ideal and it’s
the most affordable on test.
E D I T E D BY
From £479. store.google.com
CHARLIE BURTON
& STUART McGURK
P H OTO G R A P H BY
MITCH PAYNE
X Surface Pro
by Microsoft
The latest Surface from
Microsoft is by far the most
powerful option here – it’s
essentially a formidable
laptop disguised as a tablet.
The felt-like keyboard
feels great, but will divide
opinion, and at over 1kg
all-in, it’s heavier than
Apple’s MacBook. It’s also
not cheap. However, the
battery is outstanding.
From £929. microsoft.com
MY
Rollneck
“The way tops from Cos are cut is great. I’m thin
and tall, so this one falls nicely on my body.”
£55. cosstores.com
STYLE
Business is blooming for
Wish list
Clutch
“I can’t wear a bag while
florist and entrepreneur carrying flowers, so it’d be nice
to have something like this.”
Ronny Colbie, who talks us By Prada, £870. prada.com
through his essential picks
PORTRAIT BY Florian Renner
Jewellery
“I always wear two necklaces
because I like the way they hang on
my chest and make a statement.”
From top: Necklace by Sam Ubhi,
£400. samubhi.com. Chain, £45.
Wish list Pendant, £150. Both by Monica Vinader.
At Liberty. libertylondon.com
Sunglasses
“I only ever buy mirrored sunglasses.
I like the way the lenses on this pair
work with the rustic wood.” Watch
By Finlay & Co, £120. finlayandco.com
“There’s always a time
Trousers limit on everything I do.
“The dark blue denim means I can This Omega has got so
work on my flowers then go straight
to a meeting without smartening up.” many functions on it that
By Homecore, £125. homecore.com I can keep track of it all.”
£3,120. omegawatches.com
Wish list
Jumper
“I’m obsessed with
Jeremy Scott at Moschino. Wish list
He’s probably one of our Watch
last brave designers.” “I like the idea of
£650. At farfetch.com having a functional
Story by Tom Dooner
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F L A G S H I P S T O R E , 2 1 0 P I C C A D I L LY,
LONDON W1J 9HL
E D I T E D BY BILL PRINCE
TRAVEL
this month: from palermo to taormina, the heart of the mediterranean opens up
Secret
Palermo is the spiky capital of Sicily, but the Italian design. The champagne bar on the
buzz of the backstreet food markets and terrace and the sensational Donna Franca
chaotic squares are all part of its frenetic Florio restaurant are fresh and modern
charm. Visit the Cappella Palatina church for highlights. In contrast, the rooms and
Sicily
Unearth the wild edge of the
its mosaic, the Teatro Massimo opera house
for its architecture and, if you don’t scare
easily, the catacombs for the mummified
bodies of Palermo residents past. To regroup,
the Grand Hotel Villa Igiea is only a stone’s
reception are staunchly traditional – dark
wood, heavy fabric and thick, patterned
carpets. Embrace the old-school, though. In
the heart of the Wild West that is Palermo,
»
it’s strangely comforting.
Italian island steeped in history, throw from the city’s commotion and a From £300 a night. 43 Salita Belmonte, 90142.
luxury and rugged beauty mixture of serene sanctuary and old-school +39 091 631 2111. villa-igiea.com
Photograph Getty Images
Urban myths:
Palermo offers visitors
respite and revelry
72 hours in
Taormina
Don’t just take the G7’s word for it: this polite, manicured enclave
on the wild and energetic island of Sicily is the perfect base for an
Italian adventure. It’s easy to see why Ernest Hemingway once said
Taormina is “so pretty it hurts to look”. Crates overflowing with local
citrus fruit are stacked on street corners and the crumbling ruin of
the third-century amphitheatre injects some authentic, rough charm.
It even delivers when you turn your back, thanks to unbroken views
over the Ionian Sea and the imposing volcanic behemoth that is
Mount Etna. True, Taormina is not the real Sicily – the rest of the
island is rugged, raw and complex – but for visitors hoping for a true
Sicilian experience, it is a gateway to a beautifully imperfect island.
Go with the flow An excursion you can’t refuse as far as the eye can see and an iconic
(from top): Mount Etna;
the village of Savoca, You could easily fall on the hilltop village of Savoca without ever rock formation on the horizon that really
where The Godfather realising its significance. North of Taormina, it is the home of Bar does take the breath away. There are two
was filmed
Vitelli (barvitelli.it), which is as famous for being the bar where scenes restaurants on-site, one of which, Il
from The Godfather were shot as it is for its lemon granita. The church Cappero, has a Michelin star. Emily Wright G
here is also where Michael Corleone’s wedding was filmed and, in the From £274 a night. Isola Di Vulcano, 98050.
year that marks the film’s 45th anniversary, it’s worth a visit. +39 090 985 2555. therasiaresort.it
» I am. And once you lose that difference to the pain that had You try to master the pain. You But sometimes they don’t.
spirit, it is hard to recover.” taken up residency in my back. remain smart, tough and you When that happens, you can’t
I wasn’t in a back brace. I And then, sensing my modify your fitness regime. do the same thing that you
wasn’t in a wheelchair. And yet mounting desperation, one of And you tell yourself, “I will have been doing. But that
no injury feels trivial when it my specialists shyly suggested, get through this.” And I did. doesn’t mean you do nothing.
totally disrupts your life, when “You might try this...” Then I did my knees in. “Just because you strained
it incapacitates you, when it It was a yoga move: one of your quads or tweaked
stops you from sleeping, when “downward-facing dog”, the ou will also get ill. your lower back doesn’t mean
it gets you down, when it makes
you feel unmanned, when it
makes you believe life will never
be the same again. Injury is like
poverty or a failing relationship.
It is only trivial when it is not
happening to you.
one where you start on all fours
and then slowly lift your butt in
the air, lengthening your spine,
your arms and your hamstrings.
It worked. Pain began to drain
from my back.
Someone else – another
Y Regular exercise
boosts blood
circulation, cell
growth and the
immune system, keeps your
heart healthy and your bones
and muscles strong. But
you can’t train the other 600
or so muscles in your body,”
writes Ciaran Fairman on
bodybuilding.com. “Making a
complete departure will lead to
a greater loss of muscle mass,
strength and fitness, setting
apologetic specialist at the end bacteria, bugs and viruses still your recovery back further.
he medical of another unsuccessful session get through and the immune Instead, get creative and try
T
professionals will tell
you that all injuries
fall into two distinct
groups – overuse and
trauma. Injuries can creep up on
you or they can happen in one
moment, like Hemingway’s
– showed me two more yoga
moves. “child’s pose” and
“upward-facing dog”. They are
all very easy; anyone of any
age, fitness or flexibility could
do them. And they worked.
After all that time and money,
system can’t cope with high-
intensity work-outs when you
are sick. Training when ill will
only make you sicker.
Coaches in endurance sports
such as triathlon and cycling
abide by the “above the neck”
to train the rest of your body.”
When coming back from
injury, attitude is everything.
Eighteen months after
breaking his back in three
places, Bear Grylls became
one of the youngest climbers
description of going bankrupt all those trips to Harley Street, rule, also known as the “above to scale Mount Everest.
in The Sun Also Rises. my back was healed by some the shoulder” rule. If you have I have two friends who
“How did you go bankrupt? basic yoga moves. The pain went a head cold or blocked sinuses, pulverised their shoulders while
“Two ways. Gradually and away as if by magic (yoga poses then keep going at a reduced skiing. Both came back stronger
then suddenly.” deliver nutrients from nearby level of intensity. But if you than ever. One rehabilitated
My back felt like both. It blood vessels to the spinal discs have a virus, joint pain, the with t’ai chi and the other with
went gradually and then it went – it’s not magic at all). running squirts or chesty cough, swimming. The psychological
suddenly. I had taken a dig to And here is how you heal then take time out to recover. impact of injury – discovering
the ribs in the gym, a short left most injuries. You never give up Unless you are about to fall off you’re not the man you want
hook that slipped under my hope. You keep an open mind. your perch, you can always do to be – is far worse than any
guard. Nothing that I had not something – stretching, walking, physical discomfort. Rest,
experienced before, something light weights. Any non- rehab and rethinking are the
that had always gone away by strenuous movement in fresh ways to recovery.
itself in the past. And then, a
few days later in a Tokyo hotel,
Discovering air is good. Mother was right.
Dave Smith, former GB and
But attitude is the key.
The fittest man I know –
I reached for a suitcase that was you’re not Olympic cycling coach writes, Fred Kindall, my personal
just beyond my grasp. And then
my back was gone. Gradually the man you “Let your symptoms be the
gauge as to what’s a feasible
trainer – recently had a
serious injury. Kindall sold
and then suddenly.
It transpired that I had torn
want to be is amount of exercise to do [when
ill]. Allow as long as you were ill
his Porsche 911 and bought a
racing bike then – guess what?
my internal intercostal muscles,
the skeletal muscles that lift
worse than for to get back to where your
training was before. In order
– came off in spectacular
fashion, flying through the air
your ribs and expand your chest physical to stay illness-free in future, before fracturing his clavicle
cavity every time you breathe
out. Here was yet another part
discomfort ensure a sound diet, wash your
hands and allow adequate
(the collarbone).
As Kindall embarks on his
of my body that I had never recovery from training. Take long road to recovery, he looks
heard of until I broke it. Who steps to keep stress levels down, healthier and happier than ever.
knew you needed muscles to lift ensure you get quality sleep He recommends never letting
your ribs with every breath you and – after really hard sessions your injury dominate you.
take? And the injury hurt like – try to avoid disease-carrying “Own your injury,” he suggests.
hell, the kind of pain that objects, such as people.” In this life of surprises,
invades your fitful dreams. The body has an endless injuries and illness are the
But the pain was the least capacity to heal itself. Aches setbacks we never see coming.
of it. The worst of it was the and strains do go away. Illness They age, weaken and
feeling of hopelessness. I tried and injuries can disappear dishearten us. But self-pity
everything: Harley Street without any help. The “rice” never healed a broken bone.
doctors; deep-tissue massage; formula – rest, ice, compression When a part of your body
physiotherapy; osteopathy; and and elevation – will make most breaks down, you will learn just
pills galore. None of it made any knocks and niggles disappear. how strong you really are. G
Game changer
Burton has teamed up with Jamie Redknapp to present his
top style selections for autumn 2017
Coat, £85
Blazer, £75
G Partnership
Roll with it
‘It’s important
for me in my
broadcasting
career to look
both polished
and stylish’
‘Cooking will
never be as
powerful as
the song
you lost your
virginity to’
Anthony Bourdain
132 GQ.CO.UK OCTOBER 2017
IGGY POP
LUST
FOR
Together, hot-shot chef Anthony
Bourdain and rock legend Iggy
Pop are old friends at the top of
their games and show no signs
of slowing. GQ plays stooge as
this never-say-die double act
shoots the breeze about music,
mortality and mob executions
STORY BY Esma Annemon Dil
and there you are out on the road again. relaxing. I played New York a lot since,
Are you always hungry? what, 1969? I’ve been there again and
IP: I’m starting to get areas of professional
contentment, but that stops at the county
again and again, knocking on the door.
I could tell things were cool in the room. life. I don’t
line; it does not do anything for me
personally except that it solves a problem.
The problem being: for years I was
Everything was cool.
AB: I noticed something else: when you
inadvisably leap off stage into the audience
really want to
struggling – first to prove that I had any
talent, then to create some skills and finally
you always pick the biggest guy.
IP: Yeah! The absolute best is in an area
sit around
to fulfil it reasonably. But then once I got
there it was, “OK. I did that, but I want to
where everybody is packed in and can’t
move. But if you can’t get that, just the
till I’m 90’
be happy.” And that’s a whole different biggest target. And the one that’s » Iggy Pop
134 GQ.CO.UK OCTOBER 2017
Gutter credit hereplease Gutter name here
IGGY POP
IGGY POP
» farthest from the floor, because what IP: I would like something fairly quick. A little radioactive plutonium in my sushi
you don’t want to do, where it gets AB: You don’t want to be hit by, like, an would concern me.
dangerous – and sometimes this happens ice-cream truck. Then caught up in the GQ: Is food the new rock’n’roll?
– you see my boots and then my head is wheel well and dragged down the street IP: Food has really come up. And rock’n’roll
down near the floor. And the danger is that with the ice-cream truck playing happy has really gone down.
your spine... You could have a bad time on music. This is my worry. AB: Here’s what I think the difference
the way up. That has nearly happened. IP: That’s true, we have a good [truck] is: first of all, every chef I know, if they
AB: Not one of the basic skills that they here, called El Suavacito. could play guitar or bass or play in
teach you in rock’n’roll school. AB: I’ll give it a wide berth. a rock’n’roll band, would walk away from
IP: No. I dislocated one of my shoulders IP: And he has the music, like Mister cooking in a hot second. Cooked food and
trying to dive on a sour-faced little Softee music. cooking is not the new rock’n’roll and
ten- or eleven-year-old kid at an AB: That isn’t what I want to hear as never will be. It’s a very powerful epiphany
amphitheatre. One of these sheds on a I bleed out. to taste something that evokes your
horrible tour I did in the Nineties called GQ: Anthony, are you banned from childhood or an emotional moment. That’s
the Roar Tour, where RJ Reynolds Tobacco any countries? a very, very strong feeling. But it will never
hired me to flog stuff to the youth. So AB: There are a couple of be as strong as the song
I did the tour, but the audiences were there
for a band called Sponge. We were out in
places that I would feel
very uncomfortable going
‘Food has you lost your virginity
to. We experience food
rural Ohio between Columbus and Akron,
and this little kid was just looking at me
back to. I think Romania
is not too happy with me
really come differently. We experience
food in a very different
like, “You’re not Sponge.” And so I thought, because the show we up. And way now with social
“I’ll show you, you little prick. I’m going
to stage-dive you.” And he moved and
made there went very
badly for us and ended
rock’n’roll media. You almost can’t
eat without Instagraming
I hit the cement hard. And my arm came
out at this angle and it wouldn’t move.
up being a comedy
classic that was harshly
has really it. It’s like otherwise it
didn’t happen. You know,
And they couldn’t get it back in and we unflattering to Romania. gone down’ when you’re eating
were an hour from the nearest hospital. Nothing against Romania, Iggy Pop truffles you want to make
My guitarist claims I was speaking in but just the way our local sure that people who
tongues. By the time the doctor jammed contacts tried to alter reality to make aren’t eating truffles see that.
it back in, it had been out too long. It just Romania look like a wonderland free of IP: Not me.
hung for about six weeks. He said, “Well, all problems. And it went disastrously AB: And chefs used to complain about
50/50 you get it back. You’re pretty old.” wrong. I was on the front page news as this thing of people taking pictures. Now
I was in my fifties. I was a little scared, but a covert agent of Mossad and the KGB. I’ll sit down with ten chefs, out come ten
it came back finally. In Turkey, there have actually been cellphones. And they’re all hashtagging me.
AB: You’re still jumping off stage? statements from government figures there I’m like, “I’m right across the table. What
IP: Well, yeah, a lot less. Less and less. claiming that some of the visiting celebrity are you tweeting at me for? I know what
I had to do it a lot on that tour to balance chefs work for the CIA or intelligence you are eating.”
the suits, you know? services. That’s not an atmosphere I feel IP: When I chose music, I never cared
AB: Is love possible? too comfortable with. And the last time about any of that. I never cared. The
IP: My answer would be part-time only, I was in Russia... idea for me is that anybody that’s really
not full-time. Because what happens is IP: I could see you working for the CIA. any good at it, the music thing, would
everything that goes with our freakiness AB: Can you see me passing the do it for free. Howlin’ Wolf often gigged
– the egomania, the whoring, the background check? for a fish sandwich – a fish sandwich,
unreasonable focus on one’s self and IP: Ha! you know?
one’s own tiny problems of articulation AB: I was in Russia and it was a very GQ: Anthony, you are on Twitter and
and style and all this crap – will eventually, unflattering show as far as Mr Putin is don’t hold back when it comes to politics.
if it doesn’t eat the other person, cause an concerned. And my dinner companion How do you deal with the trolling?
atrophy of that other person. was shot to death on the front lawn of AB: I get attacked, but sure, I mean,
AB: I love the story about how when the Kremlin shortly afterwards. I would look, when most of the people who
[Italian film actor] Marcello Mastroianni probably be served some plutonium tea. attack you invariably can’t spell, that’s
died, all his ex-wives and ex-girlfriends Boris Nemtsov, who was the opposition always satisfying. And I just don’t really
showed up at the funeral. leader, was having dinner with me and care. I don’t really have a reputation to
IP: The death thing is a real hard one to I asked him, “Aren’t you afraid?” I mean lose. I don’t see myself as an advocate, I’m
think about. Will I be deaf? Will I be blind? people who’ve angered and insulted not particularly political. But I am acutely
Will I get an ulcer? Vladimir Putin seem to be dying with sensitive to the ridiculous. Anything that
AB: I’m hoping for a mob-style execution. some regularity. Bad things happen to is ridiculous and hypocritical; I can’t resist
IP: Yeah, that sounds like something them. And he said, “No, I’m too well- a good dick joke, let’s put it that way. And
you could get. known. It would be too embarrassing.” the opportunity for dick jokes has increased
AB: Or eating some very expensive Then, as if to prove otherwise, he was exponentially in recent months.
sushi. You know, I’m eating sushi at Jiro not just shot, but he was shot right outside GQ: Iggy, you’ve said before that you and
in Tokyo and then somebody slides up the Kremlin. So, yeah, Russia probably your band were true communists because
and bang! I would not be unhappy with not. I would be very concerned about you shared everything.
that as my last meal. the food I’m eating there, for instance. IP: Yes, you could say that. I once had a»
136 GQ.CO.UK OCTOBER 2017
IGGY POP
» beautiful offer for a film I couldn’t do I’d say, of Bauhaus loft space in Berlin for they love. Nobody wants to fuck it up
from a German director, a lady. It was a couple of hundred bucks. It was painters, because they won’t be able to eat at the
about people who lived in a commune hash dealers, weird. The most beautiful restaurant any more.
that was so communal everybody shared thing about Berlin was there was still an old GQ: When did you go to Libya?
a wardrobe. I lived like that for a bit. ballroom on the Ku’damm. And once a week AB: Not too long after Benghazi. And
Nobody had enough money to really make an organ player would come in there and the everyone was cool, super happy to see us.
it in normal life. But you’d have more fun old people would come and dance. And I “Oh, America! Thank you, Nato!” Everything
together anyway. And you could pool your would sit, you would pay two marks to get was great. And then literally the next day
money and get by. And you had enough to in, and just watch and listen to music. And everybody was just sort of, I don’t know
smoke dope, take psychedelics and drink there was a place, the Resi, an old place what the word is, moving away from us as
a little, maybe, and pay the rent. And then where you could dance. And then on the if we were, like, targets. And shit started
go out. stage there was a water show. It was a happening. We have unarmed security
AB: I reached a point very early workers’ social club. And it had a huge in places like that and they were super
on where I realised that dance floor ringed with suspicious. Every night it was, bang,
I constitutionally don’t
really want to share my
‘I’m often booths, your good,
spacious German booths,
bang, bang on the door, pack your bags,
get your passport, be ready to leave at any
yogurt, I certainly don’t angry. Some not a cheap little SoHo moment. And we’d have to have a meeting
want to share my drugs French restaurant rip-off. every morning between the crew to vote
and I’ve been, I guess, of Iggy’s best AB: Right. whether we were going to continue with
to just about every
communist nation on
music was IP: No, a good spacious
booth. And each booth had
this madness.
GQ: The risks must be in the back of your
earth at this point. And
I can’t think of a place
angry. It’s a a pole with a number on it.
And then you had a pad of
mind. In your books and shows there’s an
angry voice.
where, if we are talking valid feeling’ paper and a pen. And what AB: Well, I’m often angry. I think some of
communism, where it’s Anthony Bourdain do they call those vacuums? Iggy’s best music was angry music. I think
not at least as grotesque AB: Oh, where you send it’s a valid feeling. A lot of Raw Power and
as the most grotesque examples of those messages through a tube? Fun House in particular, when I was an
nationalism, of the right. Maybe that’s IP: Right. So you could write, “Booth angry young man, those songs, some of
why I tend to love messy, dysfunctional number 89, you look pretty good...” those songs, I needed to hear those songs
countries that change governments AB: A pneumatic tube. very, very badly. I was very unhappy, angry,
every year. I love Italy, because it seems IP: “...Would you like to have a dance?” But frustrated. You’ve got to be careful about
to barely work but somehow stays the without having to go through the what you do with that anger. I think fear is
same. Dysfunctional but glorious because embarrassment. It’s very German, you a much more dangerous emotion. I think
they can’t really change and they can’t know? Have you been to Dresden? what we are seeing in America is more an
get anything done. It’s still there for us AB: I haven’t. ugly reaction to fear than anger. Anger is
and a romantic and wonderful and IP: No, me either. I hear that seems to be a byproduct of fear.
delicious place. having... it’s full of cost-conscious, hardline GQ: Iggy, before I forget, my friend Lorca,
IP: A small communal group, for a short, young Germans now. One thing that kept Leonard Cohen’s daughter, said I should
finite period of time, can make a really good Berlin afloat when I was there was the definitely tell you that he treasured the
piece of art. Either functioning as a film West German government gave a lot of Polaroid you both took.
unit or as, sometimes, art groups. And then money to the educational institutions. IP: Leonard! I didn’t know that. That’s a
a leader will emerge, divisions will emerge. The students were basically these grumpy great thing to hear. He’s a nice old boy.
It’s not practical. I don’t want to share my German draft dodgers. A lot of them were AB: Leonard just passed, yeah?
yogurt anymore. like, “I don’t like anything. Give me some IP: Yeah. You know he tried to hook me up
GQ: I would also like to talk about Berlin. more hash.” I lived the same. They would with a three-way.
You both had experiences there, how long generally live in these Hinderhof flats GQ: I want to hear the story from you.
did you live there? with coal ovens. David Bowie had a nice IP: Somebody wrote in a classified that they
IP: It feels like it was either three years apartment in Schöneberg. I lived with wanted to meet a man with something like
or the better part of three years. From the him for a while. He put in an expensive the finesse of Leonard Cohen and the raw
butt end of ’76 through ’77, ’78 and ’79 is heater. And, later, after two winters, I put power of moi. So he said, “Solicit it. We call
a haze to me. I knew more painters when one in too. her up and get her over here.” But, you
I was there. I knew Rainer Fetting, Salomé GQ: Anthony, tell us about Beirut. know, I was married.
and I knew Martin Kippenberger pretty AB: There is this thing about Beirut where GQ: Too bad. G
well. Kippy was an alcoholic, agitating, there is this willing suspension of hostilities
hand, 24 hours, alcoholic. But he had a something on. Like gangsters from different Iggy Pop Pays Tribute To Lou Reed
(Iggy Pop, October 2013)
beautiful loft, he had a good 10,000 sq ft, crime families all eating in a restaurant that
The Chef
Naked ambition
Eighteen years after GQ launched the man who put men in the kitchen, Jamie Oliver
is back to keep us out of it – with spectacular recipes that take no time at all
P H OTO G R A P H BY PEROU
Tuxedo by Alexander McQueen. alexandermcqueen.com. Shirt, £100. Tuxedo studs, £118. Cuff links, £88. All by J Crew. jcrew.com
Jamie Oliver
bites back
It’s been 18 years since Jamie
Oliver wrote a monthly food
column for GQ. He was
discovered by the magazine after
being randomly spotted by a
television crew filming in London’s
iconic River Café, where he was
working under Rose Gray and Ruth
Rogers. The first series of The Naked
Chef was yet to air, he was dyslexic
and no one knew who he was, so
writing for the magazine was, in his
own words, “a big f***ing deal”.
Today, aged 42, he has no fewer than
42 restaurants in the UK alone, 22
books printed in 36 languages and
five children in tow.
“I was so green [when I started
writing for GQ], really young, and they
took a total punt on me,” he says, when
I meet him at the branch of Fifteen in
London’s Old Street. “I have never been
a good writer and I’m a terrible speller
and went to special-needs throughout Five a day: Oliver’s smoky
secondary school. Then I’m asked to go chorizo salmon dish extracts
for a coffee and they want me to write a heavy hit of taste from a
handful of ingredients
for GQ. I was gobsmacked.”
He recalls that he hadn’t yet done
The Naked Chef – “I was sort of
filming it and there was a hubbub
wants tasty, worldly food, but wants
it quickly.”
‘When we Oliver recognises that he essentially
grew up on television, an experience
around me but, you know the drill, it Oliver admits that social media has started, he describes as strange. “People are
doesn’t mean anything” – but he was
determined to do a good job. To
connected him to his audience in
groundbreaking ways, so he feels
cooking forever coming up to me who might
have just watched The Naked Chef for
illustrate the point, he remembers more in tune with what people want. was for the first time and then all of a sudden
sitting next to a young boy on a plane
recently who talked to him about
And one of the most significant
changes he has noticed since he
girls. By they get a 42-year-old Jamie Oliver
and it’s a bit of a disappointment.”
being dyslexic. “I was explaining how started is people’s attitudes to series But 20 years of cooking hasn’t
you can overcome certain things,” he
tells me. “I said, ‘Look, dude, I used to
cooking. To be a part of the food
world is achingly trendy these days,
two, affected his waistline and he’s kept
in excellent shape. “It can be hard
have a Dictaphone with a little tape but that was not the case when he cooking because my job is to taste all the time,”
and I used to read all my recipes into started in the Nineties. got you he admits. “I go to the gym and they
it and then I’d give it to a secretary “I think it was indirectly connected ask me, ‘How’s your week been?’ I say,
and she would type it up and it was to GQ and sex,” he says. “When we
girls’ ‘It’s been really good, but I had to do a
all Kool & The Gang.’ And he asks started in the mid-Nineties, cooking ravioli tasting yesterday. And we just
me, ‘What’s a Dictaphone? What’s a was for girls. But when series two of changed the cheese menu so I’ve been
cassette?’ I felt so old! But in the GQ The Naked Chef came out, cooking checking out the Wensleydale.’ I’m not
days, that’s what I did.” got you girls and everyone benefited a super vain, ripped type, but I can fit
Fast-forward nearly two decades from that. When I started out, men into a decent suit and I think I’m in
and, despite the challenges of hated me for three years because I fairly good nick.”
dyslexia, his latest book, 5 Ingredients: was being used in rhetoric back home O 5 Ingredients: And he takes topping off nearly
Quick & Easy
Quick & Easy Food, was written in with their missus telling them, ‘If Food by Jamie
two decades with a GQ shoot as a big
just three months. “Think of the Jamie can do it, why can’t you?’ Then Oliver (Penguin compliment. “GQ are interested when
greatest songs; some of them are it switched as soon as those blokes Random House, you’re breaking out and this is the
£26) is out now.
the simplest ones. And speed is sexy. started getting laid a bit more. I think first thing I’ve done for them in 15
Jamie’s Quick
My biggest seller ever is 30-Minute The Naked Chef did a great job of And Easy Food years, so I guess that means I’ve
Meals, because the modern person shifting barriers.” is on Channel 4. weathered the storm.” Cass Chapman
Boost a roast with North African flavour in this one-dish wonder from 5 Ingredients
Where we have been
Ingredients eating this month...
4 peppers, variety of colours
2 red onions
1 x 1.2kg whole chicken
4 heaped tsp rose harissa
Pinch of sea salt and black pepper
Splash of red-wine vinegar
4 sprigs of fresh mint
Method
Melt the chocolate in a heatproof
bowl over a pan of simmering water,
then remove to cool for 10 mins.
Meanwhile, simmer the cherries and
their syrup in a nonstick frying pan on
a medium heat until thick.
Whip the cream until it forms very
soft peaks. Separate the eggs, add
the yolks to the cream with the sugar
and whisk to combine. Add a pinch
Chick’N’Sours
of sea salt to the whites and, with a Carl Clarke’s crispy chicken and sour
clean whisk, beat until super-stiff. cocktails hit in London’s Haggerston,
Fold the cooled chocolate into the comes to the West End.
cream, then very gently fold through Standout dish
the egg whites with a spatula. Kick off with the nachos with kimchi
cheese for an umami sucker punch.
Divvy up the mousse between six
bowls, interspersing with cherries 1 Earlham Street, London WC2.
and syrup throughout, and finish 020 3198 4814. chicknsours.co.uk
with a few nice cherries on top.
O£20.50. At rawlandwines.com
The Book
OTamburlaine, 27-29 Station Road, Cambridge CB1 2FB. 01223 792888. thetamburlaine.co.uk OSweet by Yotam Ottolenghi and Helen Goh
(Ebury Press, £27) is out on 14 September.
The Roundup
Flame on: Temper fires up
a new grill in London’s
financial district Three old favourites with
new faces in the kitchen
Hutong Bob Bob Ricard Bibendum
Level 33, The Shard, 31 St 1 Upper James Street, Michelin House, 81 Fulham
Thomas Street, London SE1 London W1 Road, London SW3
hutong.co.uk bobbobricard.com bibendum.co.uk
The Restaurant
Temper City The setup: The Shard’s The setup: After stints with The setup: The iconic
Nose-to-tail barbecue gets a boost from high and mighty Chinese Gordon Ramsay, Shane Michelin Man-decorated
restaurant welcomes sifu Osbourne and Phil Howard, Bibendum is 30 years old
curry and gin In a new EC2 meat and greet (master) Fei Wang as its Anna Haugh finally has an and has been given a new
new head chef for his first executive-chef role worthy lease of life, a new kitchen
Since 2016, Neil Rankin has been the major post outside of his of her talents, creating and, in Frenchman Claude
master of an open fire pit at Temper, Soho. homeland. Expect bold and a new menu at the David Bosi, a new head chef
punchy flavours. Collins-designed racy and and business partner. The
He hauls in whole locally-sourced animals
Eat this: You might know romantic Bob Bob Ricard. results are as exceptional
from small, sustainable farms, butchers them on as they are expensive.
Hutong for its brilliant Eat this: Try the fun and
site and transforms every inch of their flesh into soft-shell crab, but Wang’s refined beetroot and goat’s Eat this: With three
a celebration of all that is sticky, smoky, rendered version of Sichuan-style cheese gateau (£11.50), courses for £85 for dinner,
and blackened. Goat, cow, pig and lamb are piled deep-fried lobster with fresh followed by a panko- keep it classic with veal
chilli and dried garlic (£80), crusted sole with pea purée sweetbread, the tripe and
onto charred flatbreads, folded into tiny tacos, served might top it. (£25.50). Close the show cuttlefish gratin (with pig’s
with lamb-fat corn kernels or dipped in a rainbow with a flaming vanilla ear and ham cake) and wild
Drink that: It would be
of sauces. There’s also mescal. A lot of mescal. remiss of you not to try the crème brûlée (£11.50). strawberry vacherin.
Having more than earned his barbecue stripes, Old Peking Fashioned (£16), Drink that: Ask nicely for Drink that: The wine list is
Rankin has now turned his attentions to the City. a duck-infused Hennessy a negroni (£14), then press epic, but keep things robust
with roasted sesame syrup, the champagne button and and on-brand with a bottle
But this second Temper, which opened in July, chocolate bitters and a order a glass of Moët Brut of the 2010 Château La
has a spicy twist. “It shares the same ethos for sesame-seed pancake. Impérial (£15.50). Gasparde Bordeaux (£55).
sourcing meat and the theatre of the central grill,
but that’s where the similarity ends,” he tells GQ.
“Temper No1 was all about tacos and mescal: this The Pub
one is about curry and gin. We’re taking inspiration
from every corner of the globe – from India, Sri Hand & Heart, Nottingham
Lanka, Thailand, Japan and my local chip shop.”
Cave in to peer pressure and order a round at this underground hit
The curry rule book, it seems, has been gleefully
tossed into the fire pit. loveable pubs, due to its quirky cave setting
The menu still features grilled and smoked options: and Camra-endorsed roster of real ales.
Although its location – a ten-minute hike
whole duck, lamb skewers and fish. But these appear
Photographs James McDonald; Patricia Niven; Tim Winter
The Neighbourhood
Cromer, Norfolk
Once as stale as the variety gags at its pier
theatre, this seaside town is showcasing menus
with ambitions far beyond the nostalgia circuit
Train: London Liverpool Street to Norwich then local service to Cromer on
Greater Anglia, from £18 return. greateranglia.co.uk
Time: Around three hours.
Cromer, Norf
From above:
01263 512412. thegrovecromer. co.uk), just six miles from
co.uk) is at its most alluring. Cromer on the edge of a huge
Cromer’s The
Grove; its This is thanks to the soft amber deer park. The venison is,
ol
Norfolk quail;
k
inside The Red lighting and Michael West’s as you’d expect, just the
Lion Hotel perfectly executed menu, right side of gamey and 1
which lets native ingredients showcased in the form of 6
(such as Norfolk quail and devilled liver on toast. Ch u rc 4
St ree h
soufflé made with Dapple Make this the precursor t North
Lodge
cheese) shine without foams, to a slab of beef rib or 2 Park
emulsions and pretences. sirloin cooked over an
Norwich Road
TECH SPEC
The Serif TV includes
a beautiful back cover,
made with magnetic textile
to hide the TV’s ports and
a discreet pocket to
keep the cables tidy.
Find out more at
samsung.com
G Partnership
Green power
Military green may not be the new colour on the
block when it comes to menswear, but with the likes
of Berluti, Lanvin and Bottega Veneta re-energising
the trend, it’s a safe bet to say we’ll all be investing
next season.
CAPITOL
PUNISHMENT In his old big-business stomping grounds, DONALD TRUMP
knew only one rule: the law of the jungle, kill or be killed.
But now mired in WASHINGTON, DC, new adversaries –
including the FBI and the White House press corp – are
muddying the waters. As the president clings to the top job,
swatting at enemies left, right and centre, can he really
drain ‘THE SWAMP’ or is he simply out of his depth?
STORY BY Michael Wolff
It did not
ever occur to
Trump that the
swamp could
fight back
OCTOBER 2017 GQ.CO.UK 153
19 Conduit Street LONDON | 833 Madison Avenue NEW YORK | 5-3-20, Minami-Aoyama TOKYO | Ginza Six 3F 6-10-1 Ginza TOKYO
mackintosh.com
MICHAEL WOLFF
The Acela Express is the fast train that runs believes, broken: it’s an insider’s game; it’s
totally fixed; it serves itself.
between New York and Washington. Except it is Trump codified this into a simple and
vivid idea: the swamp. This is the web of
not very fast, making the 200-mile trip in just unelected special interests, scratching each
under three hours at nearly $600 for a return ticket. other’s backs, that maintains power, frus-
trates change and imposes inhibiting, ritual-
And this summer there were massive, much-delayed ised behaviour on Washington. Indeed, it was
repairs at New York’s Penn Station, which caused such an obvious and simple target that to name
it seemed almost to destroy it, or at least
long waits. By air, door-to-door, Midtown New York shame it. Who, after all, would actually want
to Downtown Washington takes about 30 minutes to be part of the swamp?
It did not, it would appear, occur to the new
less then the Acela and costs almost twice the president that the swamp could fight back,
price. But the route is also plagued by constant that, in fact, he would spend most of his time
in office defending himself against it.
delays, so it can sometimes take twice as long. In a Indeed, as though to save face, and to not be
seen to be bullied by the fat and lazy swamp,
robust market, one with especially demanding its name has been altered to “deep state”. The
customers, you’d think powerful interest groups pitiful bureaucracy, pampered, self-satisfied
and effete, has now become a sinister, protean,
– or major machers mindful of their own comfort, ever-threatening conspiracy. This includes
or wily entrepreneurs – would have challenged the the intelligence community: autonomous and
interlocking agencies with vast and unseen
government-funded but private corporation Amtrak, powers now unleashed upon the president.
which runs the train service, or the two carriers Faced with an almost nonstop drip-drip of
damning leaks since he took office, it might
operating out of the main airports and made it seem that the president would step back from
his braggadocio. Lesson learned: the swamp
easier and cheaper for the well-connected people can drag you down. Draining it is beyond
who commute between Washington and New York. normal engineering capabilities.
ut, in fact, this aggravating public transport. (Curiously, Trump, truly trying
B
prehension about the nature of the
field of play, the president has held
his ground. He clearly believes that
this is a personality game. The dom-
inant personality wins. A person becomes
B
commute, which everybody who
is anybody in the government or
anybody who needs anything from
the government must frequently
endure, is a cautionary, cold-bath-type lesson
about democracy: in the end, the system is
bigger than you are.
to transcend the system, once bought a New
York-Washington air route, which he financed
with loans on which he could not even make
the first payment.)
It is one of his principles, of course, that
the world invariably yields to the logic of a
better deal – and better deals are what busi-
dominant by his refusal to back down. Faceless,
unaccountable institutions can be called out.
Indeed, this is the hope and basis of democracy
as per Mr Smith Goes To Washington. Obviously,
in the president’s mind, he’s more Hollywood
than political-science student.
It’s a fundamental point. Everything he’s
Manhattan-based, I have been riding the nessman get. Trump has often been warned, ever done in his life has been based on the
Acela to DC a few times a week for the last blithely paying no attention, that Washington force of who he is. His real estate deals and
many months to witness a direct challenge is a different sort of place, that a business-like how he’s begged and cajoled for financing, his
to the proposition of institutional hegemo- approach does not necessarily work in DC. But branding innovations, a simple but effective
ny: the presidency of Donald Trump. Trump’s this seemed unfathomable to him, ridiculous. matter of projecting his own name and like-
thesis is that one man with heart and guts, Along with Trump, there are few people, ness, his reality TV career, staying in his own
who has not been inculcated into or bought on either the right or the left, who would hyperbolic character – all personality.
by the flawed system, and with a lack of ordi- defend the system. The system is, everyone Trump had hoped to charm the former direc-
nary risk aversion, can just blow it all up. Trump tor of the FBI, James Comey. Then, when
is a man who, for better or worse, stands in
opposition to the institutions that dominate
The system is that didn’t happen, when Comey remained
immune to this charm, against much advice
American political life.
Sometimes, it seems, he stands in such oppo-
broken. It’s an the other way Trump defied standard con-
ventions and all the smaller minds around
sition he doesn’t even know he’s in opposition.
Rich men, after all, are able to transcend the low
insider’s game, him and stepped forward and fired him. In
business terms, if you take over a company
and common complications of the bureaucracy
– this is a central point about being rich. Trump,
totally fixed – and oust its CEO or fire a divisional chief, you
run the place. But in institutional terms, as it
safe to say, doesn’t commute to Washington by it serves itself happens, it doesn’t at all work that way. »
OCTOBER 2017 GQ.CO.UK 155
MICHAEL WOLFF
» Personalities in Washington disproportion- flagrant disregard of literal fact is, it turns out,
ately dominate headlines, making them seem probably too much for any self-respecting,
larger than they are. Comey, himself quite the self-important person.
press hog, was a bugbear first for the Clinton
campaign and now for the Trump presidency. n some sense, the Washington press
Quite logically, he seemed to Trump the man
to take down.
But, it turns out, in a way that Trump, living
his life outside of institutional structures, still
seems not to understand, you can’t just fire
the FBI.
For liberals, usually no fans of the FBI, but
I corps, a study in mimicked behaviour,
may be the ultimate defender of proper
political decorum, arguably even more
its fetish than ideological rectitude.
Its joy is in how well a politician plays the
game. Part of that game is how well a politi-
cian plays the press itself – the press is like a
ever more deeply appalled by Trump, this is woman expecting to be seduced. Indeed, the
wonderful news. Still, it is worth making the press, in the past, has been reasonably tol-
point – one that law-enforcement Republicans erant of administrations that have proved
might ordinarily view with distaste, but that themselves substantially more right-wing and
Trump would surely now embrace – that the militaristic than, so far, the Trump administra-
FBI is supposed to be answerable to elected tion. But no administration in modern history
authorities. In the past, FBI directors have has disregarded the rules of the game and none
seldom been fired because presidents have rea- have been so universally reviled by main-
sonably feared that the FBI would then turn stream media as this one.
on them. So, in this regard, Trump has shown Institutions, at the same time formidable
Sworn enemy: Former FBI director James Comey
some remarkable moxie. testifies before the Senate, 8 June 2017 and thin-skinned – rather like Trump himself
But the world is as it is and you can either be – demand respect. It is far from clear, even
stupid or savvy. Trump’s firing of Comey set off
all the institutional alarm bells and activated
Trump still if Trump were to revamp, in the face of his
mounting difficulties, his tactics and strategy,
a mechanism that can’t so easily be stopped
by anyone: an FBI with its relentless agents
seems not to that he could, in fact, deliver this respect – or
even a pretence of it. That, too, is held against
(when does the FBI investigate and not find
a crime?); a Department Of Justice with its
understand: him. Were he wily enough to subvert insti-
tutions, which would involve understanding
righteous career prosecutors (when do prose-
cutors not find something to prosecute?); and
you can’t just them, that would be one thing. But it’s another
just to think they don’t count and that their
a special counsel who is beholden to no one. fire the FBI purpose and powers can be merely disregarded.
It is perhaps another reason why presi-
uring my many hours on the Acela, know a former congressional press secretary dents don’t come from New York. New York
D
I have taken to watching The West
Wing, Aaron Sorkin’s drama of an
idealised White House. I do this
both for its irony in the age of
Trump and because there are seven series with
around 22 episodes each. The Trump admin-
istration may be over before I work my way
who delights dinner parities by translating
any view or position into perfectly credible,
high-minded meaninglessness.) For a man
regarded as a notorious liar, Trump rather
often, bizarrely, says what he means.
For a reasonably large part of the electorate
– and whatever offences he commits, Trump
is a power centre arguably greater than
Washington – and certainly richer. Hence,
someone who has mastered New York might
be inclined to believe Washington is a walk
in the park.
But there is a different order of power in
Washington. It is strangely not about money
through the entire show. seems able to hold on to at least a safe 35 per or even accomplishment. It is about continuing.
Suffice to say that actual West Wing life cent approval rating – his is a jihad against the Holding firm. Sphinx-like. Political institutions
has never, under any president, been like official norms of behaviour that exclude, seem- don’t succeed by adapting to disruption, like
this. The real West Wing, rather than a set of ingly, at least 35 per cent of the country. In this, institutions in the marketplace. They succeed
natty office suites as in the show, is a group he has recognised that the life of politics and by resisting disruption. And, often, by taking
of shabby government offices with a few cer- the life of at least some part of the nation have down those who seek to disrupt them.
emonial rooms. But what the show effectively diverged too far. The West Wing in its relation- Donald Trump is quite an adversary. To count
does is memorialise a standard of institutional ship to Donald Trump is the difference between him out at this stage is clearly not wise. And
behaviour, a kind of wonk bonhomie and an expensive scripted drama and a down- the fight has a long way to go. But, so far, the
pride, informal and yet serious and profes- and-dirty reality show. The down-and-dirty swamp is winning. G
sional, to which every administration might reality show turns out to have a lot of fans.
aspire, except this one. But the thing is – forgetting the rage in
Trump has no interest in talking the talk or Youngstown, Ohio or the social-media viru- More from G For these related
walking the walk of wonky superiority. He has lence of Breitbart News and even the great
stories visit GQ.co.uk/magazine
Photograph Getty Images
forsaken all sense of institutional ritual and many Republicans in Washington who rep-
propriety. Whatever the White House might be resent aspects of those views – Washington
as a kind of model of institutional behaviour, deeply believes in its own mythology, which The Jeremy Corbyn Files (Michael Wolff,
September 2017)
he is against it or incapable of conforming to it. isn’t so badly represented by The West Wing.
Truth Is Whatever People Will Believe
He has defied the very language of poli- Washington’s institutional conceit is self-
(Michael Wolff, August 2017)
tics. He’s exploded the entire say-nothing, regard. To have that turned back on itself
Democratic Deficit (Michael Wolff, July 2017)
cotton-mouth, circumlocutory standard. (I in bilious tweets and incoherent rages and
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Inject a little drama into your life and swap your traditional
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HOW TO WEAR: The new black tie
An all-black evening suit will always look superb (just ask James Bond),
but even the most classic tuxedo can benefit from a seasonal shake-up.
Bow tie
It’s go big or go home right
now. Wear with a modern
fixed-collar evening shirt
as opposed to a wing.
By Gucci, £120. gucci.com
Shirt
Experiment with a pleated-front
evening shirt in chambray denim
instead of your go-to white.
By Richard James, £155.
At mrporter.com
White jacket
There’s no throwback piece that
looks fresher right now. After all,
there’s a reason the most stylish
Bonds wore ivory dinner jackets.
By Dolce & Gabbana, £1,722.
dolcegabbana.com
Studs
Swap your onyx shirt
studs for something
crafted from the metal of
the moment: rose gold.
By Alice Made This, £160.
alicemadethis.com
Patterned jacket
Upgrade your black blazer
for something bursting
with colour. However, keep
everything else monochrome
Shoes – if your jacket’s shouting,
Try something louche the rest of your dinner
and eye-catching, such suit should whisper.
as these embroidered By Billionaire, £2,120.
velvet slippers. Invest in billionairecouture.com
some black silk socks to
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By Duke + Dexter, £250.
dukeanddexter.com Wallet
Fashion assistant Jake Pummintr
THE
MIDNIGHT
HOUR:
When you’re dressed to the nines
and out on the town what you
need on your wrist is simplicity
– elegance aside, you can see
at a glance if there’s time
for one more.
PHOTOGRAPH BY Mitch Payne
JIM CHAPMAN
on autumn’s
best trends:
1
Camo, corduroy and
daytime pyjamas worth 3
getting out of bed for.
S
and it’s time to say, “So long,
short sleeves”, “Bye bye,
beachwear” and “See you
later, sandals”. The silver
lining, for me, is that what’s up next is
by far the coolest season for clothes.
Autumn’s not so chilly that you are
forced to be super practical for fear of
hypothermia, but not so hot that you
sweat out most of your vital fluids by
adding an extra layer. And, of course,
it means there are plenty of new
trends to try out. So, without further
ado, here are the ones I’m looking
4
forward to slipping into this season. the colour orange deserves a little
shout out here. Go for the same
1. Blend in to stand out shade as autumn’s changing leaves.
At London Fashion Week Men’s, lots of
shows made use of camouflage, with the likes 4. Cord is cool
of Christopher Raeburn bringing out a grey duffle At school, my maths teacher lived
coat with highlighter-yellow accents (pictured). in cream corduroy trousers that
Other designers went further and showed head-to-toe he wore almost every day. Perhaps
camo. Don’t just expect the traditional forest green, because of the Mr Bacheldors of
either – look out for white and blue prints too. the world, corduroy has had a bad
rep over the past few years, but
2. Bananas for pyjamas this season it’s back. I recently
5
I recall my man-crush Ryan Gosling bought a beautiful brown jacket
rocking the hell out of a pyjama from Percival, but many shows
top during the Cannes Film Festival featured it in all sorts of ways.
back in 2011. Silk shirts and E Tautz brought out some
nightwear during the day may seem seriously sharp navy trousers and
summery, but when layered with Officine Générale presented a
a beautiful cashmere topcoat – as sartorial option in a pale green
seen at Katie Eary (pictured), as well slim-cut suit (pictured).
as the look I wore on the Dolce
& Gabbana catwalk – it can 5. Art attack
work really well. Whether it’s an official artist-
meets-brand collaboration or a
Photographs First View; InDigital
In Italy, signature
scents are bestowed
young, passed down
the generations
or many Italian men, warm it up.”
F
Box fresh (inset): Woolrich: Few brands
fragrance is held in the same Step forward Will Will Chalker and
family present a transition from great
high regard as family. Chalker, the fine-boned British vision for
Acqua Di Parma
outdoors to urban landscape
Signature scents are bestowed Brit model and amateur
young, often passed down boxer. In him, Burdese
as successfully as Woolrich
from older generations, and last found something that Acqua Di Parma had and its new shoe range is
throughout life. The pride and loyalty never before had in its century-long history: a perfect example of this
Italians feel towards an ambassador. “We wanted someone who double life. This traditional-
their colonia is unrivalled and, for an embodies our values, such as simplicity and style climbing boot has
increasing number of men, Acqua Di light-heartedness,” says Burdese, “someone all-terrain credibility, even
Parma is the maker of choice. Founded in who can balance a career and a family, if the heights you aspire to
1916, the brand has experienced an someone with a real, authentic feeling.” are of the social variety. RJ
upsurge of late, due almost entirely to As the new face of Colonia Pura –
word-of-mouth marketing – a testimony photographed for the campaign alongside
to its ability to blend tradition and his wife, Chloe, and their son, Arthur –
heritage with forward-thinking business Chalker is seen to epitomise the scent’s
savvy. masculine combination of crisp bergamot
CEO Laura Burdese is taking Acqua Di and light white musk layered over deep
Boots by Woolwich,
Parma’s newest fragrance, Colonia Pura, notes of patchouli and cedarwood. £430. woolrich.eu
far and wide. Since assuming the role in As for Chalker being British, Burdese
October 2016, Burdese has unmasked the says, “It doesn’t matter where you’re from,
historically reserved brand and introduced this is what we believe is the way of the
it to a new generation. “The brand was true Italian lifestyle.” CC
quite cold,” she says. “I saw my goal to £91 for 100ml. At John Lewis. johnlewis.com
STYLE SHRINK:
is well out of this range it means you will
have to see a tailor to make sure your
suits fit you correctly – or think about
a made-to-measure service. And if your
EDITED BY Robert Johnston
chest and waist are around the same size
you will politely be referred to as portly.
Are there particular colour the origins of the rule actually refers to
combinations that shouldn’t shipping’s port and starboard lights – as
be worn together? JL, via email in, if you could see them both at the same
time it meant you were about to be run
There is a saying that red and green should over by a boat. The main caveat when it
never be seen (except on an Irish queen). comes to mixing red with green is that
I can’t find any reason, but I’m betting it is it makes the wearer look like a Christmas
simply because it rhymes. It’s thought that tree. Perhaps the most persistent
frowned-upon combination is black and
brown. This seems to be because there
used to be strict dress codes for the city
and the country – the origin of Hardy
Amies’ famous quote, “Brown in town,
Jeans by Stone Island, £165. how amusing.” Personally I think brown
At matchesfashion.com
and black can go very well together, such
as a camel rollneck with a black suit or
chestnut Chelsea boots
with black denim. G
Boots by RM Williams,
£350. rmwilliams.com
Bringing you the very latest in fashion, grooming, watches, news and exclusive events
1 Shearling jacket by Giuseppe Zanotti, £2,380. giuseppezanotti.com 2 Coach For Men Eau De Toilette by Coach, £62 for 100ml. coach.com
3 Rucksack by Dior Homme, £1,400. dior.com 4 Bag by Moncler, £940. moncler.com 5 Jacket by Parajumpers, £810. parajumpers.it
6 Trainers by Louis Vuitton, £715. louisvuitton.com 7 Jacket by Stone Island, £425. stonesisland.co.uk
8 Access Smartwatch by Michael Kors, £329. michaelkors.co.uk 9 Document holder by Pal Zileri, £775. palzileri.com
We love
Emporio Armani
Autumn/Winter 2017
Step into the new season in style with a little help from
Emporio Armani. Whether you’re looking to invest in
your outerwear or splurge on a seasonal must-have,
Emporio Armani have the answer. Our top pick from
the collection? Inspired by classic military styles, these
black calfskin lace-up boots are sure to toughen up
your accessories game. Boasting a classic silhouette
with modern details, these will add edge to even the
most classic of winter wardrobes.
Bomber jacket by
Kent & Curwen, £695.
kentandcurwen.com
How to
Dress for a weekend in the city
Bag by Calvin Klein
WHETHER you’re looking for a weekend away with boutique charm Accessories, £300.
or simply an intimate spot to wine and dine in the capital, Henrietta calvinkelin.com
Hotel has it all. Located in the heart of Covent Garden, Henrietta is
the first London-based hotel from the collective behind the
Sunglasses by
Experimental Group. Boasting 18 rooms – beautifully curated by Billionaire Couture, £880.
design heavyweight Dorothée Meilichzon – and a restaurant led by billionairecouture.com
Michelin-starred Ollie Dabbous, the hotel weaves together the
collective’s passion for food, wine and design. But how do you dress
the part? Those checking in for the night opt for laid-back luxe. Trainers by Tod’s,
£390. tods.com
Start with this Kent & Curwen navy wool bomber jacket to keep
your look cool and casual and team with simple separates. Opt for
dark-wash jeans and add luxury accessories to elevate the look – we
Edited by Holly Roberts
love this taupe leather belt from Corneliani and these khaki
neoprene and leather trainers from Tod’s. All that’s left is to sit back
and enjoy the cocktail menu. Trust us, you’ll find it hard to leave.
Henrietta Hotel, 14-15 Henrietta Street, WC2E 8QH,
London, +44 203 794 5313.
P OVE
COMING SOON
£1 R £
00 400
!
AND
PRESENT THE
GROOMING
BOX Featuring GQ’s edit of this season’s must-have
grooming products that create the ultimate daily routine
Curates
EDITED BY Aaron Callow
BRINGING YOU THE BEST IN CLASS AT HOME, WORK AND AWAY, THIS IS THE GQ VISION OF LIFE AT THE TOP
HOME
Bedroom painted in
Railings No31 by
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Ottoman by The
Conran Shop, £1,430.
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Sitting pretty
Comfort is king in the land of the
lounge, but be sure you also cosy
up to the right designers
Lamp by Loaf,
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Stool by Amy
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Light shade by Vita
Bed by Poliform, Copenhagen, £70.
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Chest of drawers by
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Floor cushion
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‘Choose a bed that
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to suit you and your
partner individually’
G E O R G E K HACHFE
D IR EC TO R , POL IFOR M
T H E B E D R O O M
Chair by Vitra,
£375. vitra.com
Atacama Wallpaper by
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roll. farrow-ball.com
Urban Jungle
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Vase by LSA, £100.
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THE ST U DY
Desk lamp by
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iPhone dock by
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Kitchen by
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Pa n Refrigerator by LG,
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Utensils by Sparq,
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Coffee grinder by
Crushgrind, £70.
Coffee machine by Wilfa, £300. crushgrind.com
At Harvey Nichols.
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Material Man
Get your hands on the most
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The Conran Shop is known for its exclusive
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need to look anywhere else. conranshop.co.uk
y source wears a black suit “It limits conversational scope,” says Belgian she has become the heroine in a pacey and
M
and dull-red tie. He has
specified, as I would expect
of all current or retired
Buckingham Palace staff, that
the interview must be strictly anonymous.
“We didn’t speak to each other; this meeting
didn’t happen,” he reiterates.
journalist Marc Roche, a biographer of the
Queen. Roche is almost the only reporter
on the planet to have access to the press-
fearing Windsors – a much-coveted
privilege. A longtime London correspondent
for French newspaper Le Monde, he has met
the Queen six times. “Each time, she asked
lavish account of her life, beginning with
the final years of her father, George VI,
the stammering king. Played by Claire Foy,
Elizabeth II is the new star of the American
video-streaming platform, which recently
topped 100 million subscribers. This year,
this blockbuster-budget American-British
The Queen does not like women in her me the same three questions,” he says. series took home two prestigious Golden
entourage and the men in her inner circle “How long have you been in the UK? Globes: Best Drama Series and Best Actress
are chosen for their absolute discretion, Do you like it? Isn’t it a wonderful place?” for Foy. The ten episodes of The Crown’s
usually with backgrounds in the army, Once, she added a fourth. “Do you like first series were released across ten
foreign affairs or the secret service. She my paintings?” A Rembrandt and a countries simultaneously and critics were
likes them tall and handsome, too, and Rubens were hanging within arm’s reach, universal in their praise. Although Netflix
although even the Queen can’t have it Roche recalls. “They are marvellous, keeps its audience figures close to its chest,
all, my source ticks most of these boxes. Ma’am,” he replied. “Aren’t they just? My its hurry to announce a second series,
Seemingly ageless, he lacks particularly great-great-grandmother Queen Victoria expected this November, confirms The
striking features: he is of average height, bought them,” she said, before slipping Crown as a global success.
with grey hair, a colourless stare and a skin away with small, hurried steps to speak The amount of documentation studied
tone flushed lightly pink. His manners are to another guest. for the series was immense. So as not to
flawless but staid. What’s fascinating Something unprecedented has happened compromise royal neutrality, access to the
about him is the way he can hold a lengthy to the Queen of Great Britain and Northern Palace and the Royal Family was impossible.
conversation without actually saying very Ireland. In the Netflix series The Crown, Instead, historians and biographers were
much. It’s a feat one only realises after the endlessly consulted, with gaps deftly filled
conversation has ended, as one frantically with fiction. Even if the facts do not all
scans notes that are devoid of information. add up, the tone the series captures feels
When amused, his eyes briefly crinkle. Even historically accurate.
off-duty and away from Buckingham Palace, Throughout this century, and more than
an unfettered laugh would be inappropriate. ‘Without people’s half of the last, the Queen’s complete
The Queen is all secrets, mystery and
muffled noise – ostensible blandness and
fondness for the devotion to her role has made an indelible
impression. Her sense of duty was incumbent
unwavering tradition. Guests of Buckingham
Palace must observe the golden rule: talk
monarchy it upon her from the start and she sacrificed her
sense of self to better serve the unity and
of politics, religion or gender is forbidden. can’t exist’ longevity of her kingdom. »
192 GQ.CO.UK OCTOBER 2017
THE QUEEN
Elizabeth II
is at the
peak of her
glory – a pop
icon even
Royal treatment: Netflix super
smash The Crown, starring
Claire Foy and Matt Smith,
tells the story of the young
Queen and Prince Philip
» She is calm, strong and confident, with not given much away. She doesn’t vote,
never a cancelled appointment nor sign of she’s never given an interview and she
fatigue or weariness. Such consistency, never intervenes in politics. In The Crown,
during the highs and lows of her popularity, the story is pegged to the secondary
renders her reign all the more respectable. characters – Winston Churchill (John
And yet it is through Foy’s portrayal Lithgow) as a tiring leader, an amorous
of the Queen’s solemn graciousness that and spunky Princess Margaret and an
the apparent cold indifference of the real increasingly frustrated Philip Mountbatten
Elizabeth has melted away. In short, The (Matt Smith), forced to quit the Navy to
Crown has made the Queen likeable again. fulfil his role as prince consort.
Has she seen the series? That is the As a character, Foy’s Elizabeth II has
question... We have no idea what the nothing fanciful about her. She is central,
Queen thinks, feels, says or does in her but also bland. What more is there to talk
palace. Secrecy is paramount. The Queen about, other than her calm and stubborn
does not express herself; she simply is. dedication to public duty? Is she a person
My anonymous source, on the other hand, or just a function? It was this question that
didn’t miss a single episode. His eyes crinkle tickled Morgan and The Crown’s executive
with amusement when I ask him about it. England expects: Matt Smith and Claire Foy in producers, Suzanne Mackie and Andy
He becomes enthusiastic, sentimental the second series of Netflix hit The Crown Harries. “We don’t know who the Queen
even. “I enjoyed it,” he says. really is and yet she’s the most famous
person on the planet. It’s a brand that
iles away from the real intrigues the whole world. There is no
M
palace, Elstree Studios
in North London is the
legendary place where, in
the Sixties, John Steed and
Emma Peel piled on the English charm in
The Avengers. Today, it houses the set of
The Crown. It is Friday 12 May, the last
‘We don’t know
who the Queen is
and yet she’s the
most famous
equivalent,” says Harries. “The length of
her reign tells a world history,” adds Mackie.
“From Winston Churchill to Theresa May,
Elizabeth II has known 13 prime ministers.
She remains unweathered by change, critics
and family dramas. Politicians, the media
and the church have all been discredited,
day of seven months’ filming on the highly but the Queen? Never. Six decades later,
anticipated second series. Ten new episodes person alive’ she’s the only one still intact. It’s the most
will chart the Queen’s life from 1956 to incredible structure for a television series.
1964: from Prince Charles’ childhood and More takes follow, and more spoonfuls Through this prism, we wanted to give a
Prince Philip’s party years, to the Cold of soup. Foy has eaten enough. After the real sense of British post-war history.”
War and her meeting with US president fourth take, her expression reveals a mild
John F Kennedy. nausea and the crew can’t stop laughing. sk the British if they like their
I watch Prime Minister Anthony Eden
(played by Jeremy Northam) at his desk in
an ersatz Downing Street. The smoke from
his cigarette, which rests on an ashtray, has
filled the room with a light fog. A couple of
takes later, Eden answers the black Bakelite
telephone and responds with apprehension
The camera man, sound technician and
control room technician can’t focus. It’s
6pm on the last day of filming – just hours
before the closing party. The whole crew is
here – more than 100 people crammed in
front of this tiny dining room. Everyone
is tired. Fits of laughter ripple continuously
A Queen and the more traditional
among them will say yes while
the more cosmopolitan won’t
know how to respond. “Like”
is not the right word and yet even among
her fiercest critics – exasperated by the
Windsors’ wealth, by the pressure of
to the news he hears down the line. “The around the room. They need one more royal expenditure on the taxpayer and
Russians?” he exclaims, anxiously sucking take, one more spoonful of soup. Elizabeth the monarchy’s apparent emphasis on
his cigarette. Cut. We won’t find out any swallows and looks at her sister. “I’m sorry, class structure – “hate” has no place either.
more this series. Next, I head to “Buckingham Margaret.” Cut. The end. Cries of joy. Hugs. Her subjects both respect and need her.
Palace”, a few metres away in another part Champagne. Her fellow actors leave the Even today, to forgo the monarchy remains
of Elstree. A family lunch is taking place in room, as Foy is praised, embraced and unimaginable. The Queen is the country’s
a dining room that looks out over the garden. handed an enormous bouquet of flowers. rock in troubled times: a figure whose
Present are Elizabeth, her sister, Princess The second series’ filming is over. For the constancy provides reassurance. She gives
Margaret (Vanessa Kirby), and Antony third series, which will span the Seventies, the impression that her moral aura alone
Armstrong-Jones (Matthew-Goode), the Foy will pass her crown to another. is enough to contain the ego of a prime
royal photographer and later Lord Snowdon, What is the bond that ties the British minister over whom she has no actual
who would marry Margaret in 1960. At the to their Queen? What exactly spurred power. Not only is she the guarantor of the
table, the lovers make a request to the scriptwriter Peter Morgan to turn Her country’s unity – something to hold on to
Queen: they want to announce their Majesty into a television heroine, having in these turbulent waters, roughened by the
engagement. Elizabeth takes a spoonful already written the script for Stephen Brexit vote – she is also the protector of
of soup to hide her embarrassment. She Frears’ 2006 film, The Queen? By the end its democracy.
too has a confession: she is pregnant of the first series, we still know very little Alastair Campbell observed this from
and must ask her sister to delay this about her, other than that she likes to play his watchtower at Number Ten where, as
announcement. Hierarchy means bagatelle and regrets not having studied. In Tony Blair’s communications director, he
that this request is non-negotiable. 91 years of life, 65 on the throne, she has masterminded government strategy. »
194 GQ.CO.UK OCTOBER 2017
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THE QUEEN
» A staunch republican irked by a Royal My source with the dull-red tie turns the essayist David Goodhart calls “the
Family that institutionalises inequality, idea on its head, quoting a phrase from Somewheres”. By the urban “Anywheres”,
Campbell nevertheless developed an Giuseppe Tomasi Di Lampedusa’s The who live in London and the university
admiration for the Queen’s “leadership Leopard: “Everything must change for towns, she is treated with more indifference.
talent”. So much so, in fact, that her everything to stay the same.” The more the Cosmopolitan and open to foreigners and
winning strategy is featured in his world evolves, the more the Queen becomes free trade, they voted to remain in the EU.
bestselling book, Winners: And How They a pillar of stability. “We paid close attention “The Crown has made the Queen loved
Succeed, where she rubs shoulders with to the opinion polls,” he says. Not by choice, by the ‘Anywheres’,” says Roche. “The
sporting champions, political chiefs and but because without the people’s fondness monarchy is conquering the ‘Anywheres’
top businessmen, thanks to her skill in for the monarchy, there is no monarchy.” and the ‘Somewheres’ simultaneously.”
maintaining the monarchy and staying “Image” and “strategy” are not Windsorian This is no small achievement with Brexit
relevant to another generation. notions. “For the Queen,” he says, “the impending, as well as a new battle for
She did, however, have to weather the question is not knowing how to please independence looming in Northern Ireland
“annus horribilis”. In 1992 came the fall the people, but making sure the monarchy and Scotland, who wish to remain in the EU.
from grace of Charles and Diana, the stays relevant and durable.” The Queen’s slightest move is scrutinised
revelation of Charles’ affair with Camilla Also, the power of communication like no one else’s. The Sun decided she was
Parker Bowles, Princess Anne’s divorce, displayed by the Queen should not be pro-Brexit; others interpreted an equivocal
Prince Andrew’s divorce and a fire at downplayed: she has handled televised phrase as a plea for the Scottish to vote
Windsor Castle. But the worst came five speeches with great skill since 1953, when, against independence.
years later: the tragic death of Diana, only 27 years old, at her coronation, and
Princess of Wales, in August 1997. The against Winston Churchill’s advice, she o one dares say out loud the fear
emotional response to the loss of the
“People’s Princess” was immeasurable. From
Downing Street to Buckingham Palace, were
mountains of flowers and crowds of tearful
pedestrians. The Queen appeared not to
understand it. All that for a pseudo-princess
who flaunted herself with her lover on a
agreed to being filmed and transmitted live
on television. In truth, the Queen is a master
of image. She knows what she wants to
show: unity, stability and continuity, always.
And so here she is today, meticulously
unchanged. Hunting with her corgis in her
wellies and headscarf, or in town, visiting her
N
that plays on everyone’s minds.
“It would be monumental,
terrible, one of the most
significant events of our lifetime,
for everyone,” says Campbell on the subject
of the Queen’s death. At 91 years old, she’s
a shared reference point for billions of
luxury yacht, was constantly slandered by tailors and dressed in bold colours to separate people around the world. Generations of
the press and brought the Royal Family into her from the vulgum pecus. Thanks to children from Great Britain and the
disrepute? The sovereign stayed in Scotland, Netflix, the Queen’s likeability has surged. Commonwealth have grown up with her.
locked in Balmoral Castle, and delayed the “Her popularity,” explains Marc Roche, “has Three out of four of the last prime ministers
lowering of Buckingham Palace’s royal flag always been highest in the provinces – in were born after she took the throne.
to half-mast. Come to London? She didn’t small, poor, industrial towns.” Places that What will happen once she passes? What
see the need. But Prince Charles and Tony will happen on the day she passes? More
Blair, worried about triggering public taboo than discussion of the tragedy itself
hostility, convinced her to return. “At that is that of the ceremonies that will follow,
point, the institution really had a scare. It a programme planned to the millimetre.
could have taken a turn for the worse,”
recalls Campbell.
‘The Queen Journalist Sam Knight explained the
proceedings in a recent piece for the
is a pragmatist: Guardian: “Her eyes will be closed and
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E D I T E D BY
PAUL HENDERSON
KIT LIST p.208 SIR CHRIS HOY p.209 BEAR GRYLLS p.210 PERSONAL TRAINER p.211
STORY BY
Julian Treasure
Why paying
attention...
Sit up to public
and speaking
listen! is the
secret...
ILLUSTRATION BY
Lennart Gäbel
Speaking and listening are critical skills for anyone who wants to make a
difference, as a leader, a parent, a spouse, a friend or a colleague. These skills
profoundly affect our outcomes at home and at work, so it seems strange that we
teach and test reading and writing at school, but not speaking and listening. We
are expected to pick up and master these complex capabilities with little or no
formal training or structure. So… how much thought, time and energy have you
put into actively developing your speaking and listening? If the answer is not
much, then allow sound and communication expert and author Julian Treasure
to teach you the nine secrets of powerful speaking and conscious listening.
1. Speaking and listening are and then move on to the next chunk of
interrelated the conversation. The last A is ask: use
Most people think it’s a linear relationship: questions throughout and at the end to
I speak, you listen. Actually, it’s a circle, show interest and engagement.
because the way you listen affects how
I speak and the way I speak affects the 4. Remember that everybody’s
way you listen. If you want to be listened listening is unique
to, the first step is to listen well yourself. We each have a set of filters through
which we listen: our language, culture,
2. The human voice is the values, attitudes, beliefs, expectations,
instrument we all play… intentions, emotions and assumptions all
And yet very few people train or practise. shape what we listen to and what we make
If you use your voice to achieve important it mean. It is a mistake to assume that
results – maybe teaching, selling, leadership everyone listens like you do: your listening
or public speaking – then get professional is as unique as your fingerprints and so is stage, think “BESS”. Breathe: a deep
support. Look up local voice coaches (acting everyone else’s. in-breath will counteract nerves and give
or singing) and try a few until you find one you the fuel for your voice, which is, after
you like. Work with them and over a few 5. If you have to speak in public, all, only breath. Expand: try to take in the
weeks your voice will transform into a practise public speaking whole room at once with your peripheral
powerful tool and one you understand That sounds obvious, but most people vision, rather than focusing on one spot or
how to use. The coach will help you to do not practise and feel nervous due to person. Stand: develop a strong neutral
understand your vocal toolbox: breathing, unfamiliarity and the fear they are going stance, with feet roughly shoulder-width
posture, pace, pitch, register, rhythm, to mess up, look foolish or forget their apart (slightly narrower for females),
projection and use of silence. lines. Organisations like Toastmasters everything stacked vertically, feeling as
allow you to practise the skill of public though there’s a string attached to the
3. When in conversation, speaking – or you can get together with top of your head from which you are
remember ‘RASA’ some like-minded friends and critique dangling and at the same time that your
R is receive: look at the person speaking, each other, or just video yourself. Either feet have roots going deep down into the
use attentive body language and give them way, practise until it comes naturally. earth. Make every movement from that
your full, undivided attention. You can’t When you actually do walk onto that base intentional, not random or repetitive.
Illustration Lennart Gäbel
power up your bike rides mobility and work your glutes, your
quadriceps and your hamstrings.
Once you’ve got the technique
down, it can help to use a resistance
Getting out of the saddle to train can boost performance band around the knees to maintain
the correct position.
and help prevent injury. Sir Chris Hoy explains how
Barbell hip thrust
There are many ways to do this: you
Before you start supplementing your targets on a daily, weekly and monthly basis. can do it on a bench, on a Swiss ball
riding with a workout routine, the most Whatever challenge you have set yourself, or even on a specific machine. In
important thing to do is decide what you off-the-bike training can help your essence though, you need to lean
back with your shoulders on the
want to achieve on the bike. Do you want progression and make the whole experience
bench, your bum and feet on the
to lose weight? Have you signed up for more fun. Exercises can also help with ground, and place a barbell over
a charity ride or is your aim to enjoy cycling general health, prevent injuries and boost the very top of your legs. Driving
even more? It doesn’t matter what your physical and mental wellbeing. Many through your feet, push the barbell
vertically up by squeezing your
target is, write down your goal and then cyclists who don’t do them look awkward glutes until your body is horizontal
plan how you are going to achieve it. In when off the bike; they have poor posture (your weight should be supported
my experience, you are far more likely to and suffer from bad backs and sore necks. by your shoulder blades and your
feet). It’s a great exercise for your
achieve your aim if you write it down. And But there are things you can do to help hips and your glutes and it also
that applies to anything, be it your shopping reduce musculoskeletal injury or imbalance, helps protect your lower back.
list or your intention to become Olympic while also improving your strength. For a
champion... write it down. start, make sure your bike is set up properly, Core exercise
The key thing here is to vary the
Once your goal is identified, break it so get a professional to check how your routine. Athletes love the phrase
up into small steps that lead towards that body is aligned and to establish the right “If you train the same, you stay
overall ambition. Focusing on the long-term height for your saddle and handlebar. the same”. Remember to mix it
up. Start with static core exercises
goal can be disheartening when you’re so Secondly, as part of your post-training
such as planks and then move on
far away from it, so it’s vital to have ongoing routine, regular stretching combined to something more dynamic such
with deep tissue massage can be hugely as Russian twists, hanging leg
Photograph Tom Cockram
KIT
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Unleash
a higher
power
Whatever your religion
(or lack of it) having faith
can move mountains and
help you reach the peak
of your own potential
PERSONAL TRAINING #9
Twist
Using left hand to
support body weight
and right hand to
stabilise torso, pivot
on right foot from
toe to heel and swing
hips down low to the
left. Hover just off
the floor, so that
torso rotates to
face backwards.
Keeping shoulders
stable and wide,
swing hips back
to start position
Preparation reversing the
In push-up position, sequence.
place your hands
under your shoulders,
with feet just wider
than hip-distance apart.
Place left hand just Make this month’s focus a move that will
forward of shoulders
and right hand just
challenge upper-body strength, core
behind shoulders. stability and coordination. This pilates
Cross right leg over hybrid ticks all the boxes, taking the
left leg and wrap left
foot round right foot. push-up to a whole new level. Jonathan Goodair
Do not allow hips or jonathangoodair.com
back to sag.
Perform one offset
push-up. Shorts by H&M, £19.99.
hm.com. Trainers by
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Socks by Falke,
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WELLNESS
Photographs Getty Images; Ben Riggott Grooming Samantha Cooper
hands and legs engage more deeply with an emotion or transport you
and repeat. into a whole new world. Either way, you change.
A new book, Stealing Fire: How Silicon Valley, The Navy
Seals And Maverick Scientists Are Revolutionizing The
Way We Live And Work (HarperCollins, £15), by Steven
Kotler and Jamie Wheal examines how harnessing
different states of consciousness can radically upgrade
your life. They write, “One of the most dramatic effects
of music’s power is the induction of trance states in a
communal group. People’s brains sync to both the beat
and therefore to the brains of those around them.”
This month, go and find some live music. Savour it as
you would good wine and notice how you no longer feel
Perform 5 alone, but a part of something much bigger.
alternating Get lost in music with others and you might just find
reps each yourself. Chris Baréz-BrownG
side. uppingyourelvis.com
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The winner of
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O C TO B E R 2 0 1 7
THE
NEW
AUDI
A8
Here comes
the future*
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
INTERVIEW T R AV E L T E C H N O LO GY SCREEN
Dominic Cooper: Road trips, Automotive AI: Inside Hollywood’s
he’s fast not ice drives and life on the go plutonium-fuelled
furious track tests just got smarter R&D lab
n the race to make the first
fully functioning driverless
car, Audi have taken
autonomous technology
to the next level.
The new Audi A8 is the first to
reach the Society Of Automotive
Engineers’ prescribed “Level 3” of
self-driving, which means at the
touch of a button the car can start,
accelerate, steer and brake on any
road where traffic is separated by
a central barrier. The system works
at speeds up to 37mph and it is a
monumental breakthrough.
But Audi’s commitment to AI
doesn’t end there. Their Beyond
Initiative, outlined by company
CEO Rupert Stadler at a UN summit
this summer, extends way beyond
the car industry. Bringing together
scientists, philosophers, engineers
and academics, the aim is to make
sure AI “benefits all of society”. AT T H E
“Time is the most precious good
in our future,” Stadler said in his
address. “If we are able to give that
back to our customers... we are
talking about a premium user
experience.” And who wouldn’t
DRIVE-IN
Where does Audi come up with all the cutting-edge ideas
want more time with family, more for their automotive tech advances? Simple. The R&D teams
time with friends, more time doing watch TV or go to the movies...
things we enjoy?
It’s a vision of the future that
makes perfect sense. And, thanks
to Audi, the future is now.
Paul Henderson
EDITOR
Hy per-c onnec t iv it y
The 21st-century tech: talks back – most of the
Audi Connect information can be read
Editor-in-Chief Dylan Jones
What it does: Audi’s aloud to you, enabling you
Editor Paul Henderson
infotainment system to concentrate on the road.
Managing Editor George Chesterton creates a network between The Hollywood prototype:
Design Jackson VdK Associates you, the internet and its Knight Rider’s Kitt
Chief Sub-Editor Aaron Callow cars, giving you access How they saw it:
Contributors Jason Barlow, Liat Clark, to features such as travel Cybernetic AI module Kitt
Alex Godfrey, John Naughton, and traffic information, was a smooth operator,
Alistair Weaver directions and parking a smart-talking but
space searches. This is nevertheless loyal and
displayed on the cars’ protective companion.
Publisher Vanessa Kingori multimedia interface We’re basically there
Business Manager Michiel Steur or the virtual cockpit, now minus the sarcasm
which can be operated by – because nobody likes
voice command and also a wise-ass.
For
I, Robot,
Audi
designed a
coupé that
literally A l l -t e r r a i n t r a c t i o n
reinvented The 21st-century tech: wet, icy and snowy enabling easy movement
the wheel Audi quattro surfaces – and the in any direction. The
What it does: Audi’s company is currently similar-looking Audi
all-wheel drive technology sharing such expertise R8 debuted two years
brings extra sportiness to blaze trails on the after the film’s release
and performance to moon, with the Audi – sphereless, but with
its cars. Available Lunar quattro. quattro technology
across the whole Audi The Hollywood that feels almost as slick
range, quattro provides prototype: I, Robot’s – just like you’re almost
excellent dynamism, Audi RSQ as slick as Will Smith.
traction and grip, How they saw it: Audi Sure you are.
regardless of the designed Will Smith’s
conditions – including 2035 coupé, which
literally reinvented
the wheel via spheres
What it does: Audi’s trailing drivers will notice What it does: Adaptive cars on California’s roads, What it does: Audi e-tron with the benefits of a
LED technology provides your brake lights sooner. cruise control automatically so more is on the way. embraces today and four-cylinder engine.
powerful light, increasing The Hollywood prototype: accelerates and brakes to The Hollywood prototype: tomorrow’s environmental The Hollywood prototype:
visibility. Producing a Speed Racer’s Mach Five maintain preset distances, Minority Report’s challenges. Fuel-efficient Back To The Future’s
colour temperature of How they saw it: Frankly with sensors and front autonomous cars drive technologies and DeLorean DMC-12
5,500 Kelvin (the same as a dangerous driver, Speed cameras detecting vehicles How they saw it: In a sustainable energy sources How they saw it: Originally
daylight), the headlights Racer zoomed about ahead. Active lane assist regulated traffic system, will provide reduced- turning back the clock with
give greater contrast, in a car with “special helps you back into lanes Tom Cruise’s computerised emission sporty driving at plutonium, Doc Brown
offer longer visual range illumination” headlights, via subtle interventions in cop car self-drove, an enviable level. The Audi later got things going
than xenon headlights, giving him powerful the power steering, while self-swerved and self- A3 Sportback g-tron uses with lightning and then
are maintenance-free infrared light operated by ultrasonic sensors allow parked while seamlessly fossil-based natural gas household waste. There
and cause hardly any eye a button that also activated park assist to automatically navigating horizontal and and biomethane, running was also a failed attempt to
fatigue. Also, Audi’s LED mini wings for long jumps steer you into a space. vertical surfaces. Watch out on e-gas produced by Audi refuel with whiskey. We’ve
tail-lights activate up to (also hazardous). Meanwhile, Audi was the for those window cleaners. from wind energy, while the all done it. alex godfrey
A C C E L E R 8
Iron Man’s self-driving car is just
CONNEC TED,
INSIDE AND OUT
“Minimalism is a key complex,” head of interior
aesthetic principle,” says design, Stefan Vollmer,
Audi design director Marc says. “Moving to touch
Lichte (above) of the new interfaces wasn’t easy and
A8’s cabin. The interior when we did it we knew
is dominated by the we had to get it absolutely
“black-panel architecture”, right.” There’s also
which hides everything advanced voice control and
until the car comes alive handwriting recognition.
the moment the door The infotainment system is
opens. At which point two powered by a new Nvidia
huge touch screens pulse quad-core processor
into view; the upper one and a 192-core graphics
houses all the infotainment processor, meaning the
features and the self- new setup is 50 times
learning navigation, the faster than the previous
lower one controls the one – and that was already
climate and seats. better than most of its
The old Audi MMI rivals. Ahead of the driver,
rotary controller is retired: the A8’s “virtual cockpit”
the A8’s main systems offers a full HD information
work entirely by touch, display, while the car also
fortunately with properly incorporates car-to-X
calibrated acoustic and traffic infrastructure and
haptic feedback. “We were real-time hazard warning,
proud of our previous now augmented by the
MMI, but we’ve added myAudi app, which can
a lot of content, and access all relevant and
the car is getting more related services. JB
In control: A smartphone app augments the A8’s considerably apportioned on-board tech, including a replacement for Audi’s previous MMI infotainment
system with two mammoth touch screens. Haptic and audio cues make using them as intuitive as the hard buttons and dials they replace
move to Level 3 autonomy sees the ‘To drive or be driven. It’s about making best use of
car and its systems take responsibility
(including legal) for its actions, instead of your time. Time is one of the most valuable goods –
its driver. Fromm also adds that the car we call it the 25th hour’ Rupert Stadler, CEO, Audi
switches out of autonomous mode should
the vehicle cross a border into a country enjoy it – the A8’s all-new chassis promises gratifying to see 12 cylinders and internal
where the legislation is still in flux. “Audi’s next-level dynamism, thanks to a 24 per combustion still prevailing, but Chinese
AI increases your independence, and we will cent improvement in overall rigidity. Its customers in particular are partial to this
continuously increase the power of the AI structure is a largely aluminium spaceframe, engine). A long wheelbase e-tron plug-in
button,” Stadler adds. “These two letters will bolstered with hot-stamped steel in the hybrid is also due, which can deliver a range
be an omnipresent companion into a new cockpit area, carbon fibre in the rear of 31 miles on electric power alone.
era.” The A8’s AI functionality harnesses the bulkhead and magnesium in the front The sheer intellectual and engineering
car’s central driver-assistance data controller sub-structure. It also features four-wheel firepower that is poured into a car like
– the tablet-sized zFas for short – which steering, a 48-volt electrical circuit and an the new A8 isn’t just a tribute to Audi. It
effectively corrals no fewer than 41 separate active suspension setup that uses individual tells you all you need to know about where
driver-assistance systems (it integrates a actuators on each wheel to effectively read the car industry finds itself right now. The
series of formidably powerful computer the road ahead – and the driver’s mind – to A8 points the way forward, for Audi and for
processors to do its thing). This includes deliver maximum agility. (Bentley uses a high-end luxury cars in general, a trailblazer
one that monitors the driver for drowsiness similar system to stunning effect in the for a future that has yet to be fully mapped
and issues a multistage warning. If you’re Bentayga SUV.) out. Nor does it stint on the leather and
a particularly heavy sleeper, the car will There’s a choice of two V6 engines (a wood that have been true luxury signifiers
come to a halt all by itself... 282bhp diesel and 335bhp petrol) during the since the earliest days of the automobile. The
Should you choose to remain alert car’s initial rollout, with two V8 units to rear seat passengers can even have a footrest
enough to actually drive the car – I know, follow (454bhp petrol and 429bhp diesel) that doubles as a massager. Connectivity?
I know, but it’s still an Audi; you might and the range-topping 577bhp W12 (it’s You got it. jason barlow
Capital punishment:
Dominic Cooper’s
no-nonsense AGENT COOPER?
driving style was
honed on the streets
of South London
With a Michelin
star to its name,
Ristorante
Esplanade is the
perfect spot
to ‘refuel’
he Q8 is much more than just a new Even Audi’s tight-lipped PR team admit
SUV. This is a signpost to Audi’s the concept is only a few tweaks away from
future, a dramatic, modernist production. The wheel rims might lose a
statement of intent that will sit at couple of inches in diameter and the doors
the top of the range. Scheduled to enter will grow handles, but it should otherwise
production next year, it will propel Audi into reach showrooms intact. Complementing
the world of the super-luxury SUV, blending the family-friendly, seven-seater Q7, the
high performance, innovative technology Q8 emphasises the “sport” in SUV.
and evocative design. It’s the first Audi SUV to be styled under
The vehicle you see here is technically only the stewardship of new design boss Marc
a concept. Having originally been unveiled at Lichte, who’s also responsible for the latest
the Detroit Motor Show in January, the Q8 A8. Lichte cites Audi’s core design values as
reappeared at the Geneva show in March in “sporty, simple and progressive” and points
“sport concept” guise. The “sport” boasted a to the 1980 quattro and the TT of 1998 as
redesigned nose, exaggerated wheel arches examples of Audi’s “progressive” heritage.
– wider by 12mm – and an extravagant His inference is clear: Audis of the future
orange hue that Audi calls “krypton”. will make a bolder statement, led by the Q8.
The new design language will also mistaking the looming presence of a Q8 in
emphasise the importance of quattro the rear-view mirror. SIXTH SENSE
to Audi’s DNA. “An Audi must have a In recent years, Audi’s cabins have
balanced weight over the front and rear established a new paradigm for minimalism
wheels to emphasise four-wheel drive,” and material choice. The Q8 takes this one
says Lichte. This is evident both in the stage further, all but eliminating traditional
proportions of the Q8 and the pronounced buttons and replacing them with a high-
wheel arches that hint at the original definition touch screen. It’s a neat way of
rally-bred quattro. marrying complex functionality with the
Another key feature is the evolution of designer’s passion for simplicity.
Audi’s distinctive “Singleframe” grille. In The attention to detail is impressive.
the future, the Q models will feature an Recognising that cars need to be operated
octagonal grille, in contrast to the six on the move, Audi has introduced haptic By 2019, Audi’s Q and Q4 (above),
corners of the A range. On the Q8, it’s response, so you feel the controls, just as range of SUVs will both of which pose
comprise six core as more sporting
flanked by headlights that employ you would with a conventional button.
models. The current alternatives, fusing
Matrix Laser technology to form an Head-up display systems are nothing new, Q2, Q3, Q5 and Q7 will coupe-like styling with
x-shaped blue signature. There’ll be no but Audi is debuting augmented-reality be joined by the Q8 SUV versatility.
n 1989’s Batman, minimise risks and seize the full Safety can also be a dull sell.
Michael Keaton’s potential of the technology.” So Audi has been emphasising
masked antihero So far, so expected. Audi why we should be excited about
beckoned the has been one of the earliest autonomous technology. Its A8
Batmobile to the developers of AI technology for might not be at Batmobile levels
scene with a few cars, teaming up with Stanford yet, but its driverless functions
husky voice University and Volkswagen’s debuted on-screen in summer
commands. Nearly three Electronics Research Lab in 2005 blockbuster Spider-Man:
decades later, we’re still waiting to compete – and win – Darpa’s Homecoming and Stadler
for the technology to become Grand Challenge for automated describes a car that will not just
ubiquitous, but Audi thinks it vehicles. Its “Level 3” system, make our lives safer, but more
knows how to accelerate the which offers driverless functions efficient in imaginative ways.
process: gain public trust and up to 37mph in good conditions, Engineering Marvel: The new Audi A8 Aside from being a chauffeur,
achieve harmonised laws. will debut in the Audi A8 next appears in Spider-Man: Homecoming it will be “a secretary who
Its Beyond Initiative has year and “Level 4”, with faster reminds me what I need to do,
brought together scientists, speeds and unassisted lane progress, Audi has been a butler who gets my groceries,
philosophers and lawyers changing, is expected in 2020 developing the Beyond Initiative a postbox on wheels, a private
from MIT Media Lab, Oxford thanks to a collaboration with for two years, putting it one medical staff that keeps an eye
University and Singularity Nvidia. Total autonomy will year ahead of the Partnership on my vital functions and
University, together with “technologically” be possible On AI To Benefit People And maybe it even becomes an
entrepreneurs and business from 2020 onwards, Stadler said Society, a collaboration of the empathetic companion
leaders, to tackle both issues and ahead of the summit. biggest tech companies in the throughout my day”.
find answers to the questions that However, he added, “Without world (including Apple, Amazon, It will also give us time
could prevent social acceptance trust there is no market.” Facebook, Google, IBM and we didn’t have – “You will
of autonomous machines. Realising how this could stall Microsoft), announced in be able to play with your
“What will be our role in the September 2016. children in the car, while the
future? What social implications On paper, we know AI will be car pays attention to other
might this have? How can we a good thing for mobility: 90 per children playing on the street”
keep control? And, maybe cent of road accidents are caused – and detect our mood and
most importantly, how do by human error. In practice, no adjust music and lighting
we make sure that AI will one knows what a self-learning accordingly. In a nutshell, the
share our values when making machine will do when presented interior luxury Audi is known
decisions? This is my personal with an ethical dilemma and for will extend to every
motivation to roll out the driverless taxis and lorries will element of its AI. This, it
Beyond Initiative,” Audi CEO certainly put millions of people believes, will set it apart. If
Rupert Stadler said at the UN out of work. As a result, the only the Beyond Initiative
summit AI For Good in June. Beyond Initiative is as much a can get the public to trust it
“Only by joining forces, will we PR move as an ethics exercise. enough to hop in... liat clark
At the same time as extolling its
potential to cure cancer and Intelligent design (from left): Kate
Darling of MIT Media Lab partners
squash fake news with “fair with Audi’s Martin Siemann at a
algorithms”, Stadler suggests AI Beyond Initiative workshop to explore
the ethics of autonomous driving
could also require us to rethink
wages, putting forward the idea
of a basic income or robot tax
and placing more emphasis
on rewarding skills humans
excel at (such as creativity and
empathy). “We have to make
sure technology serves society
and not the other way round.
Take the initiative: Audi Then machines will follow the
CEO Rupert Stadler (above) pace of people again. We want
pioneers the principles
behind connected cars to use AI to secure jobs and to
raise the standard of living.”
Opposite page:
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California gurl:
Katy Perry on
American Assassin
It says a lot about the
current state of Hollywood
that American Assassin –
a Bourne-like tale of a CIA
black ops recruit (played by
The Maze Runner’s Dylan
O’Brien) who, devastated by
the loss of his girlfriend to
a terrorist attack, decides to
hunt down the perpetrators
Liam Neeson-style – feels like
something of a throwback.
And while director Michael
Cuesta’s CV doesn’t exactly
fill us with confidence (2011’s
Roadie and 2014’s Kill The
Messenger, anyone?), the
John Wick-meets-Taken
vibe makes this an unguilty
pleasure. Stuart McGurk
Art,
Architecture,
Books, Sport,
Film, Music, Politics
+ the best opinion
for the month
ahead
Katy Perry,
hear her raw
Photograph Getty Images
LCD
Soundsystem
American Dream
(Columbia/DFA)
Out on 8 September
Six years after his
band’s supposed last
waltz, James Murphy
more than justifies
the U-turn with
mercurial dance-floor
art-rock, affecting
midlife angst and
satirical sideswipes at
the “bullying children
of the fabulous,
raffling off limited-
edition shoes”.
The National
Sleep Well Beast
(4AD)
Out on 8 September
It’s apt that the
sinister frenzy of
“Turtleneck” recalls
Nick Cave, another
artist who blazed MUSIC The rollout of Perry’s Witness, meanwhile,
back from a cosy
was painful to watch. First single “Chained To
trough. Galvanised
by frontman Matt
Berninger’s EL VY
project, political
Sisters should The Rhythm” seemed to represent the “pur-
poseful pop” she’d been talking about since
campaigning for Hillary Clinton, but then “Bon
do it for
turmoil and
electronics, this is
Appétit” was a crass double entendre featuring
the Brooklyn band’s rap trio Migos and “Swish Swish” was a dance
boldest in a decade. track that reheated Perry’s tedious beef with
Prophets hardly troubled the charts, the other a confident record name) instead of Katy Perry. It was impos-
Of Rage that could herald the end of by-the-numbers pop sible to work out what she was trying to say.
Prophets Of Rage Did she want to be woke, sexy, bitchy or vul-
STORY BY Dorian Lynskey
(Caroline nerable? Did she even want to be releasing a
International)
Out on 15 September he story of pop music in 2017 can be summed up in a tale record? Witness topped the US charts on star-
of two comebacks. Both Lorde and Katy Perry rejoined power alone but dropped 89 per cent in week
Core members
of Rage Against
The Machine, Public
Enemy and Cypress
Hill come together
T the fray over the summer with their first albums in four
years. Lorde’s Melodrama is an utterly self-assured song
cycle about partying, break-ups and entering adulthood.
two – the kind of high-profile flop that causes
palpitations in record company boardrooms.
You could see the contrast between the
with explosive force Rather than tie herself in knots trying to repeat the success of her sur- two women on stage at Glastonbury. Lorde,
to give rap-metal prise hit “Royals”, Lorde and writer-producer Jack Antonoff crafted who tours the UK this month, dramatised the
supergroups a good
a new vessel for her mordant wit and emotional honesty – somewhat themes of Melodrama via an audacious theatri-
name. Protest
music’s answer to reminiscent of Taylor Swift’s 1989, but full of peculiar twists and sub- cal spectacle reminiscent of Kate Bush’s Before
The Avengers. DL versions. It received almost unanimous hosannas. The Dawn shows, perfectly calibrating every
(songwriters,
including
Katy Perry)
hitmakers as Max Martin and Sia without
yielding a single song fit to touch the hem of
Caging the songbird:
Perry’s 2013 anthem “Roar”. At this ruthless Kesha unleashed
22 end of the industry what’s good is
what works, so Witness’ nosedive
Nobody has been treated
more cruelly by the pop
isn’t just Perry’s problem; it’s a collec- industry this decade than
(including Kesha. In 2005, aged 18, the
Perry) tive failure on the part of the writers,
singer signed with Lukasz “Dr Luke”
producers and executives who are
Gottwald, who later masterminded
paid to deliver the goods. most of Katy Perry’s biggest hits.
Lorde is playing a different game. Since 2014, Kesha’s career has been
12 Despite her Top 40 positioning, she’s in limbo due to a grim legal battle
with Gottwald, whom she accused
a serious singer-songwriter at heart of sexual, physical, verbal and emotional
(including so she doesn’t need (nor, I suspect, want) radio harassment. The ensuing lawsuits made Kesha
Adele)
bangers. Working with Antonoff on every a pop martyr, supported by the likes of Lorde,
Gaga, Taylor Swift and Adele. Now 30, she’s
song reveals an artistic confidence that bodes just released Rainbow, her first album since
well for the future. Successful artists need a
13 coherent story to tell and that’s a lot easier if
2012 and the first that truly represents who she
is. Yet she’s still not really free: it’s released on
you can settle on one songwriting voice. Take the label Gottwald founded.
(including the unstoppable Ed Sheeran: he’s not exactly
Adele)
a Prince-style auteur, but whoever he works teleport himself to the Sunset Strip in 1975 was
with his lyrical identity is unmistakable, so each facilitated by a consistent squad led by writer-
3 album has an immediately persuasive narrative.
There’s no point being purist about author-
producer Jeff Bhasker.
The saddest thing about Perry’s predicament is
ship in pop, but in practice a tighter team that she chose (or was cajoled into choosing) the
(including
Lorde) makes for a clearer identity and several major wrong path. Perry is no longer the joyfully inau-
stars seem to be leaning towards that model. thentic pop-art confection who released the
Lady Gaga, who tours in October, used a jumble bright-eyed “Teenage Dream” seven years ago.
2 of cowriters on 2016’s deliberately downsized,
indie-curious Joanne, but got Mark Ronson
She’s a 32-year-old who wants to be heard and
understood and she needs a creative partner to
and BloodPop to produce the whole thing. help her get that across. A woman whose best
(including
Lorde) Harry Styles’ surprisingly likeable attempt to songs champion female empowerment appears
trapped inside a machine that no longer works
step, every syllable. Next to that, Perry’s per- for her. It made her performance of “Roar” at
formance was as cluttered as a child’s bedroom.
Witness’ nosedive isn’t Glastonbury weirdly poignant.
I enjoyed it, but I couldn’t explain it to you. It just Perry’s problem. It’s Today’s pop stars are constantly telling their
was just a bunch of stuff happening. a collective failure of the fans, “Be yourself.” It’s the mantra of our age.
Perry’s identity crisis might be a symptom Artists who want to flourish in a period when
of a deeper upheaval in the bowels of the writers and producers authenticity is king should take their own
industry. Witness enlisted such blue-chip paid to deliver the goods advice – if the industry lets them. G
FILM
DON’T MISS
designed Paris’ most controversial structure, Perspex tube. It was compared to an oil
Photographs Richard Bryant; Getty Images; Instagram/
words don’t do justice to all his audacious refinery, yet it became the city’s most
creations, but the stories he tells prove the visited attraction. It was the result of
old lady hit him
power of his ideas will long outlive him a moment in the Sixties when a group with her umbrella
STORY BY Edwin Heathcote of (mostly British) architects combined
their obsessions with sci-fi, Meccano, with the Labour party led to a change
t the opening of the pop art and US popular culture into a in political attitudes towards the city,
Pompidou Centre in jumble of idealistic ambitions for an from dismissal (“inner city” was short-
22 Sep of his car-crash personality: fair to say that the perennially arrested man-child Shia LaBeouf was
a shoe-in for tennis’ most famous complainer, John McEnroe, while the relatively unknown Sverrir
Gudnason plays the enigmatic ice-cool Björn Borg in this snapshot biopic. Borg Vs McEnroe
promises to be the Frost/Nixon of tennis and that’s no bad thing at all. SM
W passing of the
seasons, one gen-
eration of party
ing another general election soon.
Why this is so will be made
clear when the Tories gather in
leaders has yielded place to Manchester. Expect a glutinously
another. The difference is that, choreographed display of unity
this time, the young have been in the conference chamber and
replaced by their elders. standing ovations aplenty for the
Only three years ago, David prime minister. But – as Margaret
Cameron, Ed Miliband and Nick Thatcher famously observed –
Clegg – all fortysomethings – Conservatives are masters of
squared up to one another in the “treachery with a smile on its
annual party conference pageant. face.” Even as they cheer May,
This year, Theresa May, at 60, is they will be clutching daggers
the baby of the bunch, eight years behind their backs.
younger than Jeremy Corbyn, and No serious Tory believes that
Vince Cable’s junior by 14. this gravely weakened govern-
As it happens, the 74-year-old ment can last a full parliament.
Cable’s first conference as Lib Dem Like a galleon holed below the
leader might well be the most waterline, the Tory ship is in des-
intriguing of his party’s annual perate trouble, limping through
gatherings in recent memory. the waters, kept afloat only by a
Though still a diminished force
in the Commons – there are only Even as they
12 Lib Dem MPs, compared to the
52 led by Charles Kennedy after
cheer, the Tories
the 2005 election – the move- will be clutching
ment now has an opportunity daggers behind
to carve out a distinctive role in
Brexit Britain. their backs
Unlike his predecessor, Tim Elder statesmen: Can Cable and Corbyn gain ground on May at conference? deal with the Democratic Unionist
Farron, Cable is more interested Party that was bought with
in party realignment, no doubt
inspired by Emmanuel Macron’s
triumphant reinvigoration of the
There’s life in £1 billion of taxpayers’ money.
In practice, it is not a question
of whether May goes, but in what
political centre in France. The Lib
Dem leader believes that there
is still time and scope to prevent
the old dogs yet fashion, who replaces her and how
quickly her successor goes to the
country. In their public remarks in
Britain’s departure from the EU It’s party conference season again and the door is wide Manchester, ministers will insist
and is willing to work with anyone open for the veteran Labour and Lib Dem leaders to that they are preoccupied only
to achieve that objective. He will put the prime minister out to pasture – that’s if her own by the business of government,
probably not succeed, but his colleagues don’t pull the cord themselves economic stability and Brexit. In
intelligence and contrarian vigour STORY BY Matthew d’Ancona private, their mutterings will be
will make the British political different. Presented as collective
landscape more interesting. out socialism will this year be cel- year, he will be scrutinised by the loyalty, this gathering will, in
Cable also knows that Corbyn ebrating Corbyn’s achievement in media as a prospective prime min- truth, be a carnival of conspiracy.
is in trouble over Brexit. Those securing 40 per cent of the vote ister, his team held to account as Every time you hear a Tory declare
youthful Remainers who voted with an unashamedly left-wing potential cabinet ministers, rather that the public has “no taste for
for Labour in June are beginning manifesto. He is one of their own: than spokespeople for a political another election” or that the
to grasp that the party is unequiv- a lifelong man of the left, who movement in free fall. party is “united behind the prime
ocally committed to leaving both could, at least conceivably, be the Every speech will be pored minister”, count the spoons.
Illustration Britt Spencer
the EU and the single market. next prime minister. over, every promise ruthlessly The hissing chemical compound
Which is not to say that the This is why Labour’s conference costed – and rightly so. In June, of British politics could scarcely be
party’s upcoming conference in will be different to last year’s, held Corbyn proved the pollsters and less stable. So do cast an eye at
Brighton will be gloomy. Quite the immediately after a failed par- the pundits wrong by capturing a this year’s party conferences. They
opposite: the delegates who tradi- liamentary coup against Corbyn. national mood. Now he must show may be the last such opportunity
tionally spend the week berating In Liverpool in 2016, he was still that he is capable of matching left- before you are invited, yet again,
the Labour leadership for selling fighting for his political life. This wing populism with a capacity to to head to the polling booth. G
2018
TO ME
ED N
AT ’S
IC
W
ED
CH
TIMEPIECES ES AND J
FROM THE
GREATEST
MA
BRANDS
E
LY
E
N LL
O ER
THE Y
Don’t miss
the GQ Watch Guide 2018
Available on the App Store and Google Play
ON SALE 5 OCTOBER
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Curates
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Jared
Leto
Before his return for Dallas Buyers
Club, this Oscar-winning multi-talent
had been retired. Lucky for us – and
for smash sci-fi sequel Blade Runner
2049 – he came back for good...
T
Jared Leto, GQ’s Actor Of The Year, is here
with me now and is conducting this interview
standing up wearing what looks like pyjama
bottoms and a flannel shirt. He doesn’t want
was dying of
to sit down as he has a bad back, something
that happened on a film set, and it hurts less
Aids. It’s strange
if he’s upright. I am, however, sitting, which how things like
feels slightly odd, but he’s cool with it so this
is how we’re going to roll. that inform your
“This was pre-mobiles and pre-internet,
if you can imagine such a thing. I was a film
life later on’
student and an art student and I thought acting Jacket, £2,270.
would get me on the path to directing. I remem- Trousers, £1,100. Shirt,
£425. Shoes, £560.
ber I was supposed to come out with a friend Socks, £85. Bow tie,
and he cancelled on me two weeks beforehand. £120. All by Gucci.
gucci.com. Cane
I remember thinking, ‘Fuck it, I’m going alone.’” by Tom Ford, £370.
That first trip, Leto found himself at the tomford.com
beach staring at a homeless man urinating in
the sand. “There he was with his pecker out.
It was not what I was expecting, the LA of all
the movies and posters. But it was actually
The road up to Jared Leto’s house in Los great. It was honest. It made this imagined of Elon and actually quite a few of my friends
Angeles is steep and winding. Let’s be clear: place more real. It made it attainable. I realised who are very successful founders of com-
this isn’t some faux-Spanish mansion bolted that California brings a lot of people together panies. I was interested in how billions of
onto the Hollywood Hills like a monstrous looking for a lot of different things.” dollars can change a man and how he is per-
totem of temporary fame and wealth. Neither ceived. Money is freedom. You can take more
is it like those LA shag pads, all nonreflective risks. But it can also enslave, you know? Like
glass, lap pools and hammered zinc, the sort Did Leto get work straight away? “Hardly. Howard Hughes.”
you see on Scott Disick’s social-media feed, I actually had to go back to New York. But What else can he tell us? “Well, I can tell
the ones with the three supercars parked out on my second trip I ended up renting a room you Harrison Ford is a stud – even in a cream
front in various shades of matt black. from a woman in an apartment. Like, a tiny suit. Man, he’s 75 and he’s a solid dude. And
No, this is anything but ostentatious. apartment, one-and-a-half rooms. It was her, Ryan Gosling? I didn’t have any scenes with
Whoever lives here wants to work me and her roommate. The roommate was a him, but he’s exactly what I want my movie
undisturbed. For one, it’s an old Air Force man dying of Aids. My mum was a hippie, stars to be like. Exactly.”
base. An enclave. A sprawling, expansive, so I knew how to make all these nutritious So can Leto finally draw a line under the
many layered building. A cross between green smoothies with fresh vegetables and 35-year-long dispute between Ford and
Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater house and so on. We were just trying to keep him alive. Ridley Scott, the original film’s director, about
a candle factory, which was once used by the Strange how things like that happen to you whether or not Ford’s character is in fact a rep-
US military to develop a means to photograph only to then inform your life at a later point.” licant? “I can.” Really? “Yes.” As I hear this I
the detonation of government-built nuclear Leto is, of course, talking about the impact can almost hear the late Philip K Dick, along
weapons. A place of espionage and secrets and that early harrowing experience had on his with every other nerd worth his Grays Sports
cameras to capture and measure badass mush- role as Rayon in Dallas Buyers Club, a part Almanac (1950-2000) stop counting electric
room clouds. This is a hub. This is a bunker. which saw him win an Oscar three years ago. sheep, sit up and cock an ear.
A hideout. A lair. “When that role came along I had been “You see, my character in this film is the
I buzz in and I’m met by Leto’s assistant. retired for almost six years from acting. I had only person in the entire Blade Runner uni-
She is very polite. I’m offered refreshments. my band, Thirty Seconds To Mars, which was verse who puts a machine inside...” Caution
My water arrives in a jam jar. I sit for ten and still is my main creative outlet. I didn’t suddenly gets the better of his natural
minutes in a whitewashed room. It’s empty think I wanted to go back. But then I read candour. “Put it this way, my character gets
save for a little mid-century furniture. I’m that script and...” a bit of information that no one else sees.
summoned and the very polite assistant takes Well, you know the rest. Since then, the So I know who is and who isn’t a machine.
me through more rooms to a door which leads parts Leto has taken on have been, from where I can decide.”
to a courtyard where I am told Leto will meet we’re sitting at least, fully immersive experi- And the answer?
Hair Makiko Nara Make-up Jamie Taylor
me shortly. ences for the actor: The Joker, in last year’s “Nope.”
I’m left alone. It’s absurdly tranquil and Suicide Squad, was as unhinged and cartoon- What?
much cooler than the Sunset Strip, with its ishly menacing as fans all hoped, while next “No, no, no. It’ll be on my gravestone –
hustlers and hustled, wannabes and gonnabes. month Leto will be seen as Neander Wallace, ‘I know the answer’ – and I do.”
There’s a pool that looks like a pond. A the seemingly God-like replicant creator in A mystery wrapped in an enigma wrapped
large tree throws shade over a royal blue Blade Runner 2049, alongside Harrison Ford in a Gucci flannel shirt. Oh, and a real prick-
set of metal garden furniture. The floor is and Ryan Gosling. tease. And we say that with humour. And a lot
covered in small stones. Ants dash silently “What can I tell you? Neander Wallace is of love. There hasn’t been, nor ever will there
like an army of workers beneath my feet. powerful. He’s also blind.” be anyone quite like Jared Leto in this town.
“I came to Los Angeles in 1991, which I’d heard his character is based on his tech- Hollywood’s leading man who fell to earth.
sounds like ancient times.” titan friend Elon Musk. “Yeah. I used a little Blade Runner 2049 is out on 6 October.
B
Wembley Stadium in front of a
record-breaking 90,000 people,
the undefeated champion
Anthony Joshua found himself
in an unexpected position: he was on his
back, hurt, exhausted and embarrassed,
with the referee shouting in his face and
counting with his fingers.
One... Two... “When I went down I knew
it could have been the end, that I could have
stayed down, that I could accept defeat.”
Three... Four... “I remember thinking,
Klitschko is good, maybe good enough to
beat me tonight.” Five... Six... “But I also
knew that although he had put me down
he hadn’t done enough to keep me down.”
Seven... “My instinct was to get up, to
survive, keep trying.” Eight... “I told myself,
’Just get through the round.’”
Dazed and disorientated, but also
determined, Joshua regrouped. In the
seventh his head cleared. In the eighth, he
could see Klitschko’s shots coming. And in
Story by Paul Henderson Photograph by Matthew Brookes Styling by Luke Day
Zayn Malik
Since leaving 1D, the
group’s first émigré has
walked his own path in
more ways than one.
From heavy metal tuxes
to vintage band merch,
this year the one-time
boy wonder became
a man to look up to
Zayn Malik has come a long way. Not just geographically It would be easy to say that, like songwriting as a solo
(our shoot in LA happened a full 5,282 miles away from his artist, this is the result of having the freedom to be your-
hometown of Bradford), but also since he left One Direction self after being constrained in the tightly image-controlled
– one of the most successful boy bands of all time. Since stylings of a clean-cut boy band (“It’s definitely a nice
March 2015 he’s had a phenomenally successful first album feeling to wear whatever you want and not have to match
(Mind Of Mine hit No1 on both sides of the Atlantic) and a with somebody else”), but there appears to be something
global smash debut single in the form of “Pillowtalk” (he’s deeper to Malik’s approach to dressing.
the first British act in chart history to kick-start their career “My dad said you should always wear things that fit you
with a No1 single on the American Billboard Hot 100), as right,” he says, “rather than just caring about the brand.
well as dating the most famous supermodel in the world, That is something I live by to this day. I’ll wear anything
Gigi Hadid. Now he’s repping a tux for his second GQ cover as long as it looks good on me. I don’t really care about
this year and preparing to take home the Hugo Boss Most where it’s from or the price tag.”
Stylish Man Of The Year award. That’s not to say he doesn’t wear designer clothes, but
Quick reminder: the man’s only 24 years old. If there was you might just run into him out in LA searching for old
an entry in the dictionary for the phrase “stratospheric rise band merch in the city’s legendarily good vintage shops
to fame”, Malik’s picture would be next to it – possibly mul- (“What Goes Around Comes Around is pretty sick,” he
tiple shots featuring the myriad haircuts and colours he’s says). So it’s perhaps not surprising that when asked which
tried out since going solo. man’s wardrobe he would have liked to steal, he chooses
And he’s not slowing down. Last night he was in the someone whose face has probably appeared on more merch
studio he’s built in his LA pad, working on new material and than any other’s: Tupac Shakur. “He had some really cool
putting the finishing touches to the tracklist of his second Versace stuff back in the day, one-off jumpers and jeans
album (due later this year). Turns out, it’s been a very dif- that were just amazing.”
ferent experience from his first record. Then again, perhaps it’s a good idea he’ll not be
Writing as a solo artist, he says, is “almost like an explo- getting his hands on the rapper’s vintage threads any
Grooming Shannon Pezzetta
sion – everything comes out. Then you have to decipher time soon. To be GQ’s Most Stylish Man Of The Year, it
it and work out what your sound’s going to be, what it is goes without saying that you need to have more than
that you want to say.” just a mild menswear obsession, but that comes with its
So what does he want to say in this as-yet-untitled own problems...
new record? “I think I’ve got too many clothes, to be honest,”
“Just that I’m having a good time. I’m enjoying laughs Malik. “It’s about time I started giving them
myself. Life’s good. I’m not taking things too seriously away to people.”
and just making music that people can have fun We call dibs.
San Miguel have been exploring the world since 1890. Throughout our journey we
have discovered more trailblazers like Belinda who share our thirst for discovery,
creativity and new experiences. This unique collection of inspirational people form
the San Miguel Rich List, coming 12th October.
‘We are a lot
nicer to each
other than
we are in
the show’
Steve wears suit by Chester Barrie,
£1,500. chesterbarrie.co.uk. Shirt,
£215. Bow tie, £45. Both by Budd
Shirtmakers. buddshirts.co.uk. Watch
by Blancpain, £14,410. blancpain.com
Grooming Joe Mills using KM and Dermalogica Grooming assistant Daisy Holubowicz
O
impressions and of the 2017 GQ Comedians Of The
maudlin wit, TV’s Year award have become a fixture
at our annual ceremony. Between
sardonic duo have them they’ve received awards and
made The Trip presented awards, even hosted the show, but this
is the first time they’ve won together, for the
unforgettable. success of the third – and funniest – series of
This year, The Trip. It is an honour they are happy to share,
but whatever you do, don’t call them a double act.
they take two “You can’t call us a double act because we aren’t
a double act,” Coogan says with deadpan sincerity.
for the road... “But I think we work very well together.” They
are also very easy in each other’s company. Sitting
together in a South London “caff”, the pair are
in tune to each other’s comedic frequency and yet
comfortable enough to not necessarily be “on”
for the small GQ audience.
“It’s funny because when we are filming The
Trip we do go out in the evening sometimes and
socialise,” Coogan explains. “And we are just a
lot nicer to each other than we are in the show.”
“By that he means we are probably quite dull,
because we just talk about really dull middle-
class things,” continues Brydon.
With a little prompting you can coax out a
couple of their many impersonations – “Steve’s
Pierce Brosnan is my favourite,” says Brydon. “And
Story by Paul Henderson Photograph by Charlie Gray Styling by Tanja Martin
Steve Rob
Coogan Brydon OCTOBER 2017 GQ.CO.UK 275
‘Little did I know
Star Wars would
never go away
– that it would
consume my life’
Cloak by David Thomas. Suit by Rag & Bone.
rag-bone.com. Shirt, £525. Shoes, £565.
Both by Giorgio Armani. armani.com
A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away, the role of fresh-faced rebel
fighter Luke Skywalker brought its young lead cinematic
immortality. Having struggled with his legacy, he swapped interstellar
fame for a career as a character actor. This year, with the Force
stronger than ever, he has returned to his rightful place at the centre of
the Star Wars universe. GQ anoints the last Jedi...
Mark
Hamill
Story by Stuart McGurk Photographs by Gavin Bond Styling by David Thomas
Kurupt FM
This year, Bafta, Ed Sheeran
and now GQ confirmed what
Brentford (and parts of
Shepherd’s Bush) already knew.
So, tune in to 108.9 and take a
lyrical blow to the jaw from the
People Just Do Nothing crew
Story by Charlie Burton Photographs by Hamish Brown Styling by Tanja Martin
eople Just Do Nothing, as an action movie. It’s gonna be
P
the cult pirate radio
mockumentary, began
life in 2010 online.
Now, with a slot on BBC Two, it’s
enjoying the limelight it deserves.
set in the future, in Dubai, and
I’m gonna be playing myself.
BEATS: Sounds sick, can’t wait
to be in a proper movie.
GRINDAH: You ain’t gonna be
This year the sitcom scored a in it, Beats. I’ve seen you try
Bafta, upstaged everyone at and act, mate. You’re shit.
Comic Relief (including Ed BEATS: Yeah, you’re right.
Sheeran) and has returned Sounds sick, though.
for a fourth series. We spoke to GQ: You worked with Ed
Kurupt FM’s (fictional) frontmen Sheeran on a charity single
MC Grindah and DJ Beats... earlier this year. Tell us
something that we wouldn’t
GQ: When you started Kurupt know about him.
FM, did you ever imagine that GRINDAH: He comes across like
one day you’d pick up GQ’s a proper dickhead that loves
Garage Act Of The Year? himself, but in real life he’s safe.
GRINDAH: For us and our fans GQ: Do you have any style
we’ve been the Best Garage Act advice that you want to pass
every year since 2004. on to our readers?
BEATS: He even goes and buys GRINDAH: Don’t wear Nike
the award in some school shop Huaraches anymore, please,
in South Ealing. for humanity.
GRINDAH: Beats, don’t always BEATS: Don’t wear tiny T-shirts
cut in. But yeah, you’ve gotta and get sleeve tattoos, please.
reward yourself sometimes. You look like an old breh that
BEATS: He wins it every year. likes Ibiza too much. G Inspiration
GQ: A People Just Do Nothing GRINDAH: Don’t ever let me see
Pelé
film is in the works. What can you with a top knot. I will crush
we expect? it into dust.
GRINDAH: I’m actually in the BEATS: Can’t think of any more.
middle of writing my life story GRINDAH: That’ll do.
42049 DAVID-TC
HOODED JACKET IN DAVID-TC. STARTING WITH AN INITIAL STAR-SHAPED JAPANESE
POLYESTER/POLYAMIDE SUBSTRATE, GARMENTS IN DAVID-TC ARE ASSEMBLED AND THEN
SIMULTANEOUSLY DYED AND TREATED WITH AN ANTI-DROP AGENT. DURING GARMENT
DYEING UNDER PRESSURE AT 130°C, THE HEAT RADICALLY TRANSFORMS THE STRUCTURE
AND HAND OF THE MATERIAL. THE RESULT IS THE BEAUTIFUL AND WEARABLE CLOTHES
THAT COMBINE AN INDUSTRIAL FEEL WITH A RICH IN UNIQUE TACTILE EXPERIENCE.
NECK AND HOOD IN REVERSED SHEEPSKIN. ZIP WELT POCKETS. BELLOWS POCKET WITH
BUTTON FLAP ON CHEST. ADJUSTABLE TIE AT CUFFS. ZIP AND BUTTON FASTENING. FLAGSHIP STORE:
REMOVABLE NYLON LINING PADDED WITH THE FINEST DOWN AND SNAP FASTENING. 79 BREWER STREET_LONDON_W1F 9ZN
s Barack Obama put it
A
in his first inauguration
speech in 2009, while
a president sometimes
assumes office in the
“rising tides of prosperity” and the “still
waters of peace”, every so often “the
Sadiq
Khan
oath is taken amidst gathering clouds
and raging storms”.
The same could easily be said
of London’s mayor, Sadiq Khan. No
sooner was he elected in May 2016,
than the country voted for Brexit in
June. Until this spring, the last terror
G Politician Of The Year
attack in London was Lee Rigby’s After a fraught
murder in 2013; from March to
June 2017, there were three – in year in office, London’s
Westminster, London Bridge and embattled mayor
Finsbury Park. And, of course, on
14 June, there was the Grenfell Tower
emerges with his hope
fire. Talk about gathering clouds. and humanity intact
“It’s heartbreaking,” says Khan, – not to mention one
“but you’ve seen the best of humanity,
the best of London: police officers of our highest honours
running towards danger, waitresses
and bakers and nurses, all running
towards danger. You’ve seen the
resilience of our city.”
During the Grenfell disaster, he
called Dany Cotton, London’s fire
commissioner, who was on the scene.
“She said, ‘This is the sort of
fire you expect in South Africa or
America, not London.’ She used
the word ‘inferno’.”
And as if Khan didn’t have enough
to do, there were President Trump’s
tweets attacking him. But even
here the mayor sees a positive: the
London-wide mass protests that
would almost certainly greet any visit.
“Many Londoners aren’t Muslim,
but they object to his views on that.
Many aren’t women, but they’re men
who reject his views.”
Beyond it all, he remains optimistic.
And, with Khan as our capital’s
mayor, so do we. Our Politician Of
The Year, a most steady hand in
Jacket, £449.
raging storms. Shirt, £149.
“You know,” he says, “one of Trousers, £139.
Bow tie, £75.
the great things about our city Cufflinks, £49.
is that when we’re given the All by Boss.
hugoboss.com.
opportunity between hope and Watch,
Grooming Mark Francome Painter
SINCE 1830
woolrich.eu
Sergei Polunin
He twisted and turned on his route to the top,
but the bad boy of ballet is only just getting going
Opposite: Suit
by Boss. hugoboss.com.
Jewellery by De Beers.
debeers.com
In a profession
where self-doubt
and substance
abuse are
dangerously
familiar, it takes
someone special
to find a new path
– and even help
others along the
way. By providing
young people
a platform to
speak out, this
remarkable
model-turned-
patron proves
real beauty can
change the world
G Hugo Boss Woman Of The Year
Story by Jonathan Heaf
Photographs by Mariano Vivanco
Styling by Sam Ranger
SPONSORED BY
W
makes. Twelve months ago,
Liam Gallagher was ready
to throw in the tambourine.
He’d had enough of the
court cases, drinking his demons away
and being asked about the Oasis “reunion”
every time he popped out for a pint of
G Rock’n’Roll Star Of The Year
milk. Or a pint of anything, for that matter. Once the brother most
He’d eyed a little place in the sun, a gated
idyll, where he could escape. Regroup.
likely to self-destruct,
Retox. Re-retox. Eat tepid paella and doze, the outspoken singer is
Twitter feed disconnected, unbothered and looking forward, with
unaccounted for by the circling lawyers
and black-eyed money men. After all, what new songs, steely focus
was there left to prove? Well, everything as and the same old swagger
it turned out. To himself. Despite everyone
Liam
who told him not to bother, the youngest
Gallagher began writing lyrics. He’d wake
at 3am in his flat in Highgate, pick up a
guitar and start strumming. Something
stuck. He kept at it. Suddenly he had the
beginnings of a verse. Then a handful.
Gallagher
Then a whole song. Or two. Next, he was
in LA, in a studio with Greg Kurstin, who’d
previously worked with Adele. Demos were
cut. A record deal brokered. A band formed.
A single. An album. A tour. Then the
Manchester bombings and a city, a country,
in need of healing, only for Gallagher to
step up and give one of the most visceral,
cathartic, nation-rebuilding performances
since, well, some band played Knebworth
21 years ago. Suddenly all of us, himself
included, remembered why the world needs
Liam Gallagher and why Liam Gallagher,
in turn, needs the world. Loud, brash,
unapologetic, unrelenting, unstoppable.
This year, a rock star saved our lives.
Jacket by Stone Island, £1,095. stoneisland.com. Jeans by Levi’s, £90. levi.com. Sunglasses, Liam’s own
Having made the small screen his own with defining performances
in War & Peace, Happy Valley and Grantchester, our man of
many parts is racing ahead to blockbusters, Bond and beyond
o be in one hit TV show is good the speculation. “Because on one hand, it’s really
T
Story by Stuart McGurk Photograph by Charlie Gray Styling by Grace Gilfeather
Nick Cave
Photograph Camera Press
T
been waiting for. Grime never had a
breakout phenomenon who was the full
package until Michael Omari Jr. He’s been
the scene’s most-likely-to since his first
Mobo Award in 2014, but when his extraordinary
debut album, Gang Signs & Prayer, went to No1 in
March, he delivered on every promise he’d made.
Stormzy is an irresistible presence. He inhabits
an elusive sweet spot: mainstream enough to guest
with Ed Sheeran and appear on a Simon Cowell
charity single, yet still firmly plugged in to the
underground, and fiercely suspicious of the press
and music industry. At Glastonbury, he paused his
masterful set to make a perfectly judged tribute to
the victims of the Grenfell Tower fire and became
the most beloved man at the festival after Jeremy
Corbyn. And you can’t dance to Jeremy Corbyn.
What is it that makes Stormzy the star that 2017
needs? His lyrical dexterity and kilowatt charisma
are a given. Then there’s the spiritual depth that
makes Gang Signs & Prayer as much a soul or gospel
album as a grime record; the honesty that enabled
him to go public with his struggles with depression,
then smackdown NME, when it attempted to
exploit his vulnerability for a cover line; the
uncompromising independence that forced the
industry to come to him, not the other way around
Story by Dorian Lynskey – he released the album on his own #Merky label;
the willingness to use his platform to speak out SPONSORED BY
about the youth vote and government “fuckery”.
Photograph by Daniel Sannwald He’s smart, funny, principled, compassionate and
nobody’s sucker: a knockout combination. What’s
more, he proved all of this before he turned 23 in
Styling by Elgar Johnson July. Stormzy’s just getting started.
Suit by Boss,£500.
hugoboss.com. Rollneck by
John Smedley, £145.
johnsmedley.com
Made in Britain
From Boots, Superdrug, supermarkets, Holland & Barrett, health stores, pharmacies
*UK’s No1 men’s supplement brand. Nielsen GB ScanTrack Total Coverage Unit Sales 52 w/e 17 June 2017.
The Grand Tour
By joining Amazon’s online superhighway, the world’s favourite calamitous
three-piece hooked up the power of no-holds-barred frontier programming
G TV Personalities Of The Year
eremy Clarkson, Richard Hammond and James May are GQ: How does it feel to be Wikipedia says it was a £160m
Jeremy wears shirt by Smyth & Gibson, £160. smythandgibson.com. Bow tie by Tom Ford, £150. At Harrods. harrods.com. Scarf by Budd, £145. buddshirts.co.uk.
Watch, Jeremy’s own. James wears shirt by Smyth & Gibson, £160. smythandgibson.com. Bow tie by Tom Ford, £150. At Harrods. harrods.com. Braces by Budd,
£150. buddshirts.co.uk. Richard wears shirt by Marks & Spencer, £160. marksandspencer.com. Bow tie by Eton, £75. etonshirts.com. Watch, Richard’s own
here is a misconception that German artist Wolfgang Tillmans’ photographs – a tight crop of a coffee cup, a pink lobster cracked inside
T out or the repetitive ridges of an endless sea – are somehow random. Candid images caught by a man who shoots first and frames
Photograph Tate Photography
his aesthetic long afterwards. Such a flippant reading of his art couldn’t be further from the truth, although in a way it’s testament to
Tillmans’ photographic precision that the audience feel a particular moment in time has been captured. Rather than the snapshot feel
of someone such as Martin Parr, Tillmans’ work – whether two men tenderly embracing, images of his own workspace or a car mid-
manufacture – resonates with a beautiful serenity, a calmness, something that takes, by his own admission, a meticulous choreography. Though
Tillmans’ work has remained true to his careful eye ever since photographs of his friends appeared in the style pages of i-D magazine in the early
Nineties, with a major solo show at the Tate Modern and the widely seen and coveted posters he produced to campaign against Brexit, 2017 will
go down as the year in which the rest of us – and not just the art establishment – woke up and recognised Wolfgang Tillmans’ power, originality
and cultural impact. A man, and an artist, truly in touch with his own times.
SPONSORED BY
hristopher Bailey is one of fashion’s great disrupters and under his creative direction
Fashion has
always been
C
Burberry has been in the vanguard of the many technical and cultural innovations
that have swept the industry. In 2010, Burberry was the first to live-stream its
catwalk show, presenting its latest collection to the world rather than a select
assembly of editors. Bailey was also one of the first designers to merge his men’s
and women’s collections into one show and pioneered the “see now, buy now” ethos. As he
said when introducing the concept, “We will look back on this time as like the great industrial
revolution – because it is. Our lives are changing so dramatically. I find it really exciting.”
defined by It is not all about the future, however. Bailey’s creative vision is unique, drawing inspiration
from the likes of Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, sculptor Henry Moore, 19th-century military
the pioneers, uniforms, Scottish knitwear and – of course – Burberry’s own rich heritage. His philosophy is
so GQ bows to simple: “Don’t follow in anybody’s footsteps.” After graduating from the Royal College Of Art
the Burberry in 1994, Bailey worked for Donna Karan and, later, Tom Ford at Gucci. In 2001, he was
poached to lead the design team at Burberry and rose to become chief creative officer by 2009,
chief who transforming the house as he went. Today he is also the company’s president.
looked to the This summer saw Burberry’s collaboration with Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy, whose
knowing designs winked at the turn-of-the-century check mania that Bailey was originally
past to shape hired to expel. You know you can be confident that your career has been a success when
the future you come full circle and still find yourself on top.
Story by Robert Johnston Photograph by Steve Schofield Jacket, £1,395. Shirt, £225. Both by Burberry. burberry.com
No.1 Rosemary Water is the world’s only drink containing pure rosemary extract.
Proven to improve memory function and help keep the mind sharp and focussed.
Order now from rosemarywater.com
£75. Pocket square, £59. Scarcely sentimental – he sold all his World
Cufflinks, £59. All by Boss. Cup memorabilia years ago – Hurst adds with
hugoboss.com. Watch by
Jaeger-LeCoultre, from
a smile, “And I’ve still got that report.”
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OCTOBER 2017 GQ.CO.UK 329
1939 A GQ Tribute 2017
’ve always lived a life where people The historian Simon Schama said on Twitter “who finish a book, drink a Diet Coke and
If you saw
Ed Victor at
a party, you
knew you
were in the
right place
OCTOBER 2017 GQ.CO.UK 331
» Victor owned a Bentley, Marr asked his always won, with Portillo second. None of this publishing and agenting – have helped to
agent how it was that he could only afford would have happened without Ed. He was the accomplish that.”
to drive an entry-level car. Victor, ever quick greatest networker of all time. He made He set up his agency in London in 1976,
with a quip, came back with, “I don’t just have things happen.” and it didn’t take long for him to find success:
a Bentley, Andrew” – beat – “I have three” – After he died, there was a tsunami of obit- his first deal was to sell the book and film
beat – “One for each seaboard.” uaries, with quotes from the literary great rights for Stephen Sheppard’s novel The Four
He was such a towering figure. There are few and good on both sides of the Atlantic. One Hundred for $1.5 million. He sold Douglas
people who can walk into a room and then of my favourites came from Sophie Hicks, Adams’ Hitchhikers’ Guide To The Galaxy
walk out again with a cheque for £10 million. who worked with Victor for many years series throughout the Eighties (appearing
Victor was one of those. As has been noted and who I know from sitting on the as a space cop in an illustrated edition of the
by others, he gets more than a passing membership committee of The Groucho first book) and made an instant bestseller
mention in Ava Gardner’s autobiography, as Club, an establishment Victor helped create. out of Nigella Lawson’s first cookbook,
she decided to go for Victor as her agent, “In my 25 years working with Ed, there were 1998’s How To Eat, which sold more than
rather than the more expe- innumerable times when 300,000 copies. In 2005 he sold Eric Clapton’s
rienced Irving “Swifty”
Lazar. The clincher was There are few he would stop what he was
doing and look up from his
memoirs for a reported £2.7m the day after
his client John Banville won the Booker
when she was told by a
friend that Victor doesn’t
people who desk, or interrupt our lunch
or suddenly pause during
for his novel The Sea.
just like to make money can walk into a walk through Bedford genuine intellectual, Victor
for his clients, but that,
“He likes to see the look
of surprise in the author’s
eyes when he tells them
what the deal is.” Gardner
replied, “I like surprises,
honey.” And so Victor
a room then
walk out with
a cheque for
£10 million
Square or Frankfurt or
New York and with his Ed
grin say, ‘We are having so
much fun, aren’t we?’ And
we were. We really did.”
The man who would one
day morph into London’s
A spent most of his time reading. He
had perused the most important
newspapers before he made
his first phone calls of the day
and spent his weekend with novels. He read
everything that became a bestseller, needing to
know what people were buying, what people
was hired. greatest literary agent was were liking, what they were feeling. He could
I suppose his excitement about life was born in the Bronx on 9 September 1939 to talk knowledgeably on any subject, whether
predicated on his accomplishments as Jewish immigrants from Russia. The family it was classics or cooking, politics or pop. He
much as his confidence. He had earned the soon moved to Queens, where his father didn’t just know what was going on, he had an
right to approach prime ministers, presi- ran a photographic equipment store, and opinion, too, seemingly about everything. It
dents and gangsters and ask them if they had where they doted on their son, encourag- was impossible not to feel that here was a man
ever considered the amount of money they ing him to become a successful American. who could get anyone on the phone, who could
could make if they allowed him to cut a deal He once said, “I grew up perceiving life as hold his own in any conversation, whether he
for them. a long highway littered with green lights.” was talking to Gore Vidal, Christopher Hitchens
After graduating from Bayside High School or Bill Clinton.
Photographs Getty Images; James Mason and Antonio Salgado; Philip Sinden; Rex; Richard Young
he novelist and chairman of in Queens, he earned a BA from Dartmouth Nevertheless, Victor acted like a ruthless
T
Condé Nast Britain, Nicholas
Coleridge, first met him properly
in Morocco, where Victor was
staying with Carol and their son,
Ryan, at La Gazelle d’Or hotel near Taroudant,
in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. It
was Easter and the hotel was filled with dis-
College and then won a Marshall Scholarship
to Pembroke College, Cambridge, where
he studied Henry James, James Joyce and
George Moore.
After college, Victor was hired as an art books
editor at Weidenfeld & Nicolson in London.
Later, after cornering George Weidenfeld,
old-school Hollywood agent, focusing on the
deal as though it were a diamond or a woman.
Authors, he said “want a killer agent, a shark
in the water, not a guy with an MLitt”. Victor
was both. A committed Anglophile, he married
an Englishwoman, Michelene Samuels (later,
as a writer, known as Michelene Wandor),
creet celebrities, sunbathing and reading one of the owners, in a lavatory (he would before falling in love with the woman who
their books round the pool. Michael Portillo, do business anywhere), he won a transfer became his second wife, the lawyer Carol
then a cabinet minister, was staying with to the novel division, whose authors included Ryan. He is survived by two sons from his first
his wife, Carolyn; the reclusive advertising Vladimir Nabokov and Saul Bellow. Having marriage, Adam and Ivan, his son with Carol,
tycoon Charles Saatchi with his then wife, collaborated with Felix Dennis and Richard Ryan, and three grandchildren.
Kay; fashion photographer Terence Donovan Neville on an unsuccessful countercultural Tall, debonair and with a caustic wit, Victor
and his wife, Diana; Daily Telegraph editor newspaper called Ink, and having briefly was the life and soul of London parties. If you
Charles Moore with Caroline Moore. worked for Alfred A Knopf in New York, turned up at one and saw him, you knew
“Under normal circumstances, none of these he moved back to London to set up an you were in the right place. Not that he left it
people would have spoken to each other, agency, when such a thing was very much to chance. He was forever making sure he was
terrified of invading one another’s space,” frowned upon. “When I first became an invited to the right events, and looked dimly
says Coleridge. “But then Ed took control. agent, literary agents were regarded by on those who weren’t as dedicated as he was
Every morning he would parade around the publishers as being ‘below the salt’,” he himself. Whenever we spoke on the phone,
pool. ‘I have reserved a table for 12 for lunch said. “I vowed to change that and to put he’d ask me what I was up to that night.
under the olive trees. Would you care to the literary agency into the key position And when I said that what I might do is walk
join us?’ Everyone agreed. Such was the that it now occupies in the chain of pro- across the park, go home and settle in front
power of Ed Victor. The lunches were mag- gress towards eventual publication. I hope of the TV to watch a game of football or an
nificently enjoyable. Afterwards we all played I – and the other agents who have crossed episode of a programme he never had time to
Monopoly in the sunshine, which Saatchi the then impermeable border between watch, he would berate me for having the »
332 GQ.CO.UK OCTOBER 2017
ED VICTOR
Agent provocateur:
Literary legend Ed Victor
pictured at home in
London and with
(clockwise from top):
Andy Coulson; John
Cleese; Tracey Emin;
Jeffrey Archer and Joan
Collins; his wife, Carol; Ted
Kennedy and companion;
AA Gill; Nigella Lawson;
and Paula Yates
ED VICTOR
T
huge admirer as well as a friend.
One day in 2003, Dolby was
rolling up a pair of cerise Agent
Provocateur fishnets when the call
came in. He had just joined Harper Collins
and was pitching, as was the whole of pub-
lishing, for the autobiography of U2. “Trevor?
Ed. I have news for you. [U2 manager] Paul
McGuinness and the boys would like you to
publish their book. Congratulations.”
Dolby nearly fell off his makeup stool.
“That’s such good news, Ed. Thank you so
much. I’m just putting on my stockings for
the publishers’ pantomime rehearsal and then
I’ll email Vicky [Barnsley, then British CEO].”
“Trevor, I won’t ask. But I suspect we have
made a good choice.”
Dolby had known Victor a few years before
that point, but it was the U2 book that
cemented their friendship. “Blooded,” as Victor
would say. A year into the project, Dolby
was driving along on holiday in the South of
France when his mobile rang – unusual, since
the coverage in rural France at the time was
pretty nonexistent. He pulled over on the loop
of a mountain road and climbed out of the
car next to a concrete picnic table and benches
looking down at a beautiful valley. In the
distance the sun was starting to go orange.
No signal. He swung around. Still nothing.
O
you what he had been up to,
showing off about his extraor-
dinary life. Not that I ever
begrudged him doing this. He
would call, ostensibly to ask you how you
were, but really to tell you what he’d been
doing at the weekend. I’m paraphrasing, but
I need to rest.’
“‘Rest at The Ivy. Shall I send a car?’
I pitched up and was led, hobbling, to the
banquettes at the back facing the entrance.
Ed arrived and we talked. Or, more precisely,
he talked. He talked about publishing and
about people. He told me stories about tenac-
demand loyalty and there are people who
inspire loyalty. Victor inspired loyalty. His own
life was without doubt worth a book, but he
was adamant that he would never write it.
‘There is talent and there are agents, Alastair
– I’m an agent.’ Yet he was as talented as
they come.”
the monologue would often go like this: “So ity, getting back on the horse, about learning Ed was also a tremendous name-dropper.
I just spent the weekend with Ruthie Rogers and battling on. Everyone knew it and nobody cared. Trevor
at her villa in the Tuscan hills with Gore “Late into the afternoon, we were still there Dolby remembers a particular example: “The
Vidal, Bono, Mel Brooks, Candice Bergen and I was smiling and we were giggling and phone rang and it was Linda. ‘Trevor,’ she said.
and Alexander The Great. It really was the he was allowing me to rib him a little. I kept ‘I have Ed for you.’ Ring. Pick up. ‘Trevor? Ed,’
most lovely trip and I have to say they all saying you must get on; I’m taking up too he said. ‘Hi, Ed. How are you?’ I asked. ‘I’m in
made very good companions and Ruthie really much of your time. He wafted my protests Long Island, just making breakfast for myself
is the most sensational chef.” If anyone else aside. By four I said I would get the bill. It was and my neighbour Candice Bergen. Do you
dared to show off in such a way you’d quickly the least I could do for his kindness. He placed know Candice?’”
find excuses to put the phone down, but when his hand on the table. ‘Look. You will do no “He almost always answered his phone,”
Ed was on the phone you’d want to hear more such thing. I will pay, but you must promise says Alastair Campbell, “but often to say he
and more. me one thing.’ would ‘call you right back’, on one occasion
Yes, occasionally it was irritating when his “‘Anything,’ I said. adding, ‘I’m just getting on Cher’s private
social life was more important to him than “He eyeballed me. ‘You will not become plane, trying to get a deal done.’”
the nonarrival of a royalty cheque, but you an agent. There are too many agents and not Victor’s name-dropping was done in such a
forgave him immediately, while also knowing enough good editors out there. I need someone way that it made you collude in his obvious
that if you were ever in serious trouble, Ed to sell to.’ I was flattered and bolstered and I left enjoyment in mixing with the great and the
would be there by your side with a revolver in with almost a spring in my step.” good. In Victor’s eyes – and in everyone else’s
– he was one of the great and the good, too, publisher,” says Campbell. “We began speak- pick out something from his wardrobe in
so it wasn’t as though he was pushing his face ing to the Sunday Times and there was talk of his office, something for me to keep. I took
up against the glass and staring at people who a seven-figure deal covering several volumes a tie, because he was always so smart and it
were better and more accomplished. He was over several years. This was in the era when would be something that would remind me
as accomplished as anyone he ever bumped big serialisation deals were more common than of him whenever I wore it, and I took a pho-
into at a cocktail party, often more so. Yet they are now. But I found myself worrying tograph of him taken on his graduation day,
he delighted in acknowledgment. I can still more and more that I would lose control of when he still had a highway of green lights
remember how excited he was when Keith how the diaries were presented and also that ahead of him.
Richards (whose autobiography, Life, he sold they would be used to cause a lot of political
to Little Brown for $12m) gave him a new problems for Labour and especially Gordon he last word should obviously
nickname. “According to Keith I must now
be addressed only as ‘Ed Fucking Victor.’”
And for the duration of the publicity tour,
and for a considerable amount of time after-
wards, he was.
I once commissioned a freelancer to write
a column on name-dropping and when it
Brown, a loyalty Ed often said he ‘appreciated
without fully understanding’. So one morning
I called him and said, having had a couple
of sleepless nights, I didn’t want to serialise
The Blair Years. ‘Mmmm,’ he replied. ‘How
does that make you feel?’ I asked. ‘Doesn’t
matter,’ he said. ‘What matters is how you feel
T
go to Ed himself and frankly he
wouldn’t want it any other way.
A few years ago I got a call from
him one morning while I was at
work. He seemed especially chipper and when
I asked why he said that he had some impor-
tant news for me and that he needed to ask
landed in my inbox a few days later, I was and what you’re happy with. I’ll call them.’ He my opinion about something. Barely able
immediately handed a problem. The piece delighted in introducing me to people thereaf- to contain his excitement, he told me that
started something like this: “The man who ter as ‘my most complicated client’.” even though he knew he wasn’t meant to say
name-drops with greater frequency than The end came quickly. I called him at the anything, as per protocol, he had just been
anyone I have ever met, who by rights should start of the year, while he was in Palm Beach awarded a CBE (when you’re awarded some-
have a degree or PhD in name-dropping, (he and Carol had developed a rhythm of thing in the Queen’s Honours List you’re
a man who finds it impossible to breathe spending a third of their time in London, most told about it months before it’s announced
without mentioning someone more famous of the summer in Long Island and a substan- to the public) and the conversation went
than himself is, of course, the great literary tial part of the winter in Florida). I asked how like this.
agent Ed Victor.” Having worried about this he was in the rhetorical way we all do and “Now, Dylan, I know that you’ve been
for several minutes I thought the best thing to he said he’d had some worrying results from given an honour yourself and I wanted to
do would be to send it straight to Ed, in order some recent tests (a decade earlier he had know how you used it. Do you use it on your
for him to share my concern. Literally two battled leukaemia) and so was coming home letterhead, on your email, your business card,
minutes after emailing it to him, he responded: to see his specialist. passport? Just where do you use yours?”
“Print it.” I saw him a week later, when he had been I then explained that, while I quite like
When he was asked what the funniest thing admitted to The London Clinic, where he was it when other people used it on my behalf,
ever written about him was, he said, “A profile due to start a course of chemotherapy. I sat I almost never used it myself, as I thought it
by Will Self calling me the Olympic champion with Alastair Campbell and chair of Penguin was a little ostentatious to do so. Ed didn’t
of name-dropping.” Random House UK Gail Rebuck on the end seem happy with this information and simply
of his bed, gossiping about carried on with his inquisition.
t was this boundless the publishing world and “OK, but how do most people use it?
James Nightingall
020 8720 6909
james@jandjlondon.com
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At Chess Club, It’s all Killer make it bigger than everyone else. They were
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