Trend Concepts S/S 21

Accessories
& Footwear
Leather &
Non-Leather
A comprehensive round-up of the leather and
non-leather trends for men's and women's S/S
21 collections

@ninaricci
 Action Points
For S/S 21, expect to see leather and non-leather footwear
and accessories build on the commercial success of
minimalist finishes, as well as a focus on natural materials
for updates.
1 . Natural materials are key: authentic materials will be
a major focus this season. From cork to contemporary
straw, these materials call out important messages
around sustainability.
2 . Minimalist surfaces become more sleek: update the
minimalist trend with waxy and glossy high-shine
finishes. Nylons are sleek and satins are structured for
seasonless appeal.
3 . Leathers support a ‘less is more’ design
approach: extend the lifespan of your products through
adaptable designs. Offer quality over quantity and
design for the long-term.
4 . Make a statement with craft aesthetics: use colour
and more intricate techniques to exaggerate woven
looks for a stronger statement.
5 . Apply colour to enhance materials: exotic-look skins
and upscaled croc materials are infused with colour to
add newness.

Loewe
Smooth Waxy
Leathers

A Curated Life

Update minimalist leather designs with smooth waxy

finishes
@martinianoshoes

• Focus on supple leathers with a tactile waxy finish,

Jil Sander and shiny, buttery surfaces for a timeless and
minimalist appeal. For colour, focus on the enhanced
natural tones from our S/S 21 palette.
• Smooth grains and high-quality leather and non-
leather alternatives will be key, and should be used with
classic shapes, feeding into a consumer shift towards
buying better, rather than more. Explore cleaner
chemical processes and responsible sourcing, as
consumers expect greater transparency around
sustainability.
Application: women's and men’s footwear, bags, belts,
soft accessories
Oak NYC

@nanushka
Contemporary Straw

Artesa

Use straw to add texture to designs, or combine it with

unexpected forms for a contemporary update
Camille Cote Hats

• Update straw for S/S 21 by using it with clean,

Eliurpi commercial forms, moving away from the bold
artisanal constructions of previous seasons.
• Apply minimal details to enhance straw's natural
form and colour, including refined linear patterns, or
mix with materials in contrast panels to update
traditional silhouettes. As demand for sustainable
sourcing grows, use naturally processed straw, and
where possible merge with other eco materials or
alternative non-leather sources.
Application: women's and men’s footwear, sneakers,
bags, belts, soft accessories

Clergerie

Charles & Keith

 Delicate
Translucency

@tibi

Evolve lightweight translucent materials with a focus on

delicate colours and prints
Cecil Strike

• Update lightweight materials with translucency this

Georgia Jay season, as seen at Première Vision S/S 20. Keep
colours simple for commercial appeal and explore
layered applications and contrast patterns.
• Take inspiration from the Amaike Textile Group in
Japan, which has developed the world's thinnest and
lightest material. The film-like fabric offers shine and
softness, and represents the next level for translucent
materials.
Application: women's and men’s footwear, bags, soft
accessories, hair accessories

Amaike Group

Kimhēkim
Soft Gathered
Leather

Peter Do

Add texture to soft and minimalist designs with

gathered leathers
Noon Magazine

• Combine modern and minimalist designs with soft

Cos gathered leather to add texture. This story follows on
from the softly sculpted direction in our S/S 20
Considered Comfort forecast, and can be used to
update existing shapes. Soft waxy leathers will work
best here.
• Use gathered leather for single-colour designs, or
combine soft tan and grey for a contemporary look.
Use high-quality leathers to tap into a growing focus
on buying better, rather than more.
Application: women’s footwear, bags, belts, hair
accessories

Bottega Veneta

Ametrine
 Fishnet

Oui Management

Off-White

Mitch Feinberg @fashiion-gone-rouge

Fishnet materials feed into the popularity of craft aesthetics, and also work well with natural
materials and reduce fabric usage for a sustainable angle
• Open-net and mesh materials have been gaining ground in the luxury market, and we
expect to seem them used more broadly for S/S 21. These materials play into the enduring
appeal of crafted looks, and the #modernmariner trend on our Fashion Feed.
• Use crochet for entry-level price points, and use woven leather and mixed craft materials
for higher price points. Consider using leather offcuts with laser-cutting techniques to reduce
waste.
Application: women’s footwear, bags, soft accessories
Catzorange Vein Magazine
 Infused Exotics

Haute Basics

Conceria Flli Rosati Srl

Terry de Havilland Nancy Gonzalez

Use colour to create infused exotics on leather surfaces

• Called out at Lineapelle, we will see the coloured exotics of A/W 19/20 updated with
placement colour. Snakeskin is key to this material trend and blocked colour is painted on to
sections or individual scales, contrasting with natural snake tones. Use on panels, straps and
heels.
• Rubbed finishes are also used to update traditional reptile skins and emphasise scales for
an exaggerated effect. Infused colour highlights the natural patterning of the material.
Application: women's and men’s footwear, sneakers, bags, belts

Anya Hindmarch @theshoesurgeon

 Woven Craft

Bae Se Hwa

Shozo Michikawa

@delvaux Fivestory NY

Develop artisanal weaves in non-traditional ways to update craft aesthetics

• Woven materials will continue to have strong commercial appeal, as authentically crafted
looks remain popular. Raffia, wicker and straw will be key materials, alongside elevated
leather applications. Intricate and constructed weaves will offer a fresh update on traditional
basket-weaving techniques.
• Take inspiration from the twisted and pleated sculptures of Japanese artist Shozo
Michikawa, and the Loewe Baskets project. Both feature materials that evoke a sense of
movement, and the latter uses weaves that move in a non-traditional direction.
Application: women’s footwear, bags, belts
Maniffatura di
Loewe Domodossola
 Lacquered Glossy Finishes

W. Kleinberg

Idée Fixe

Muhammad Shafi Tanneries Maison Margiela

Wet-look finishes will become more extreme and glossy for a futuristic look
• Update leather and PU surfaces with extreme wet-look finishes to create looks that can feel
futuristic and dystopian with darker tones, or retro-futuristic with pop tones. This direction
feeds into a growing acceptance of unashamedly synthetic designs in a digital age, and will
work well with the artificial colours from our S/S 21 palette.
• This story is all about the finish, so use bold colours on simple silhouettes, and keep
hardware simple. Update core items with padded, protective constructions.
Application: women's and men’s footwear, bags, belts, soft accessories

Hero Magazine @miista

Multicoloured
Weaves

Querida SRL

Update woven products with a mix of materials, offcuts

and playful colours
The Volon

• Woven materials will continue to make an impact in

Tereza Rosalie Kladosova
a mix of fabrications, following on from the colourful
basket weaves in our S/S 20 forecast, and the tactile
checks in our A/W 19/20 forecast. Focus on decorative
weaves – either applied to panels or used as solid
structures – and use rubberised finishes for more
directional products.
• For a sustainable approach, consider using
repurposed textiles, deadstock materials and offcuts to
create imperfect and one-of-a-kind silhouettes.
Application: women's and men’s footwear, bags, soft
accessories

Preciosa

Sophia Webster
Natural Cork

Digitalab

Cork's use will broaden as awareness around

sustainability heightens
Vegan Style

• As climate concerns reach crisis level, we expect cork

Rokcork to become a key alternative to synthetics, as it ticks a
lot of eco boxes – natural, biodegradable, and as
durable and supple as leather. For footwear, consider
migrating it from the sole to the upper.
• New innovations are already signalling growth
opportunities for cork. Most recently, Portuguese studio
Digitalab developed a method of turning cork into
thread, which can be used in the manufacturing of
textiles and accessories.
Application: women's and men’s footwear, sneakers,
bags, belts, watch straps, soft accessories

Jane Collins

Sam Edelman
 Old-School Jelly

Duran Lantink

Lu Hardcastle

Alexa Chung Marc Jacobs

Jelly-like plastics will become more relevant for luxurious investment pieces
• Jelly-like PVC plastic will move away from gimmicky connotations to become more
relevant for luxury items. For more inspiration, see the #novelty trend on WGSN's Fashion
Feed, and Christopher Kane's A/W 19/20 collection, where semi-translucent materials were
infused with liquid.
• Perceptions of synthetics are changing, and this will make them more relevant for precious
investment pieces. Convey this to the consumer through packaging and point-of-sale, and
enhance designs through colour and decorative details.
Application: women's footwear, bags, belts
Christopher Kane @bona_drag
Adaptable Rubber

Birkenstock x 032c

Rubber will increasingly be seen as a durable, adaptable,

and fashion-relevant material
Simon Miller

• Rubber will continue to have commercial appeal for

Fendi utilitarian designs, but we will also see matte rubbers
gain relevance. This waterproof material will come into
its own as climates become more unpredictable. Use
glossy rubber for a more dystopian look, and use waste
rubber as a sustainable option.
• Another advantage of rubberised finishes is that they
allow for lighter free-form shapes. This material will be
especially relevant for festival footwear and transitional
items.
Application: women's and men’s footwear, sneakers,
bags, belts, soft accessories

Querida SRL

Gucci
Sleek Nylon

A-Cold-Wall*

Use nylon to create a luxe minimalist aesthetic

Junya Watanabe • Lightweight nylons will play into a sleek minimalist
direction for S/S 21. This feeds into the
Dior Homme #futurecommuter trend on WGSN's Fashion Feed, and
continues on from S/S 20 utilitarian themes.
• Although profiles remain practical, we also see the
introduction of clean feminine silhouettes for women’s
accessories, in everyday uniform muted single colours.
Hardware and technical trims are kept minimal.
Application: women's and men’s footwear, sneakers,
bags, soft accessories

Prada

@papi.prada
Structured Satin

Jil Sander

Extend the appeal of satin beyond occasionwear for

everyday use
@driesvannoten

• Use satin for more structured designs for S/S 21, to

Maison Margiela give everyday items day-to-night versatility.
• Robust structured satins will feel new, and play into
the #noughtiesnostalgia trend on WGSN's Fashion
Feed. This material will work well across all accessories
and footwear categories, and should no longer be
considered just an occasionwear fabric. Contrast with
heavy-duty #toughlove styling, as seen in Prada’s A/W
19/20 collection.
Application: women's and men’s footwear, sneakers,
bags, belts, soft accessories, hair accessories

Odd 92

Prada
 Elevated Tie-Dye

Pedro García

Numéro Homme

@alyxstudio John Geiger

Update traditional tie-dye swirls with more atmospheric and hazy patterns
• We have been tracking the rise of #tiedye on WGSN’s fashion feed since S/S 19, and by
S/S 21 it will be ripe for an update. Explore cloudy and mottled patterns, and colour
nuances, moving on from S/S 20's dreamy dyes. Colours are sophisticated in monotone
hues, and are worked across cottons, canvas and leathers.
• Explore the use of bio-dyes for a sustainable angle. Vegetal or waterless dyes can also be
used to achieve this look.
Application: women's and men’s footwear, sneakers, bags, soft accessories

Proenza Schouler Italhide

Upscaled Croc

France Croco

Explore texture and colour this season with

upscaled crocodile-effect leathers
Another Man

• Exaggerated and large-scale exotics will remain

Burberry influential in S/S 21, and have already been noted
at the S/S 20 edition of Lineapelle.
• Update designs with a mix of neutrals and
fashion colours in glossy sheens, or with supple
skins and embossed bold graphic prints. Digital
patterns can also be used as a contemporary
update for traditional skins. Use unusual colours
and rubbed finishes to create an artificial, cyber-
inspired look.
Application: women's and men’s footwear, bags,
belts

James Rowland Shop

Sincerely Tommy
 Natural Resources

Nike

Return to nature for sustainable developments

Sara Hajgato • As new approaches to sustainable and vegan

materials continue to be explored, we see further
Italhide
developments in plant and fruit waste used to
create new fabrics. Examples include materials
developed from tropical plants, and elephant ear
leaves bonded on to fabric.
• While these alternative resources are still at a
conceptual stage, use naturally dyed materials to
create a simple sustainable message. Flower, plant
and vegetable-based dyes create imperfect effects
through natural colours that tie in with this
season’s organic credentials.
Application: unisex footwear, sneakers, bags

Sara Hajgato Fruitleather Rotterdam @theshoesurgeon

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