Unearthing Asia 01 2010

THE INAUGURAL ISSUE WIN HOTEL STAYS IN BALI, HK AND MORE!
Culture, Lifestyle and Attractions Vol 01 Dec/Jan/Feb 2010
Raja Ampat Phuket Puerto Princesa

Koh Pha Ngan Bali
New Zealand’s Splashing

Lake Taupo + A Guide to Middle
Eastern Cuisine + Heeding
the Call of Asia in Taiwan +
Singapore Stopover + Spotlight
Vol 01 - Issue 01
www.unearthingasia.com
on Jakarta + Flashpacking
IDR 50.000 SGD 7.50 RM 14.00
Essentials + A Tropical Affair
contents

Koh Pha Ngan Bali
Vol 01 - Issue 01
IDR 50.000 SGD 7.50 RM 14.00
On the cover – the luxurious Rock Bar

at AYANA Resort and Spa Bali
THE GUIDE
ISLANDS OF SOUTH EAST ASIA
46 Eco Paradise
46
Uncover the eco paradise and
scuba-diving Holy Grail of Raja Ampat
58 Beach Life
Discover Phuket’s island paradise –
quiet, tranquil, and its rowdy side as well
64 Subterranean Magic
Unearth a magical Palawan attraction
priming for international limelight
72 Coming of Age
Koh Phangan is beautifully morphing
in its slow but steady evolution
78 After the Storm
Despite the threat of terrorism and
overtourism, Bali retains its hidden charms
64 78
4 www.unearthingasia.com
contents
96 84
15-26 BUZZWORTHY!
Singapore’s Party flavor; the Nikki Beach
Club in Thailand; Bali’s hip happenings;
Hong Kong’s new dig; and more
28 DATEBOOK
Festivals and events not to be missed 91
TRAVEL TALES
30 SPOTLIGHT Jakarta
24 hour in the Big Durian of South East 91 Arabian Servings
Asia, with local tips and suggestions A tasty guide to the culinary delights
from the region of Middle East
34-41 INSIGHTS
Top flashpacking gadgets; a quick 96 Heeding the Call
Singapore rejuvenation; and more Photographer extraordinaire, Craig
Ferguson shard his tales of travel all over
the region of Asia
84 STYLE GUIDE A Tropical Affair
104
A perfect beachfront rendezvous by the 104 Splashing Lake Taupo
seaside coast of Segarra, Jakarta Jump right into adventure and explore
deep into the Kiwi’s stunning landscape
at Lake Taupo
EDITOR’S notes
Twenty years from now you’ll be more Much too often, we spend our lives weighing one thing
against another. Considering, always thinking. Is this
disappointed by the things you didn’t do, better? Is it too expensive? Too risky? But all too often,
we spend too much time contemplating, that we ended
than by the ones you did do up missing the window of opportunity that has just
– Mark Twain been presented.
The moral of the story here, in line with those wise words from a wise man
above, is to open up and surrender yourself to possibilities. True, you may
regret it after all, but more often than not, you’ll end up disappointed for not
taking up the chance while you’ve still got the opportunity to do so.
It is with that in mind I’d like to introduce Unearthing Asia to you. The travel
publication market is one that is crowded and very competitive. However,
all too often I ended up frustrated as I browse the various magazines on
offer. They are suggesting US$1000 a night luxury hotels, or a US$150
meal of deep fried chicken tender, with a layer of cheese slipped in. Now,
I’m sure the suggested hotel boasts plentiful amenities, and the chicken
tender heavenly upon my lips. But more often than not, I ended skipping
these suggestions for other more cost-effective options.
It is this hole in the travel publication that we aim to service. Our readers
are the Generation Y, web-savvy, young and affluent, but budget conscious
and looking for good advice. They are independent travelers daring to
brave off-the-beaten paths, and heading into new territories blind with
excitement. They look for tips and hints from various offline and online
medium, from friends and strangers alike, and enjoy every single step of
the journey as much as the destination in itself.
We sincerely hope you’ll enjoy this inaugural offering from us. As I look
forward to this project finally unfolding, I can’t help but smile and raise
a little toast to our team. My simple wish is that five, ten, or even twenty
years from now, we’ll look back with fondness, and be glad at our decision
to embark upon this amazing journey together.
Nikolas Tjhin
Editor-in-Chief
8
BEHIND THE SCENES
Commissioners All rights in this publication

Husein VP and the name are owned
and licensed to PT Tanindo
Consultant Multi Media. No part of this
Kicky Alexander magazine may be reproduced
Achmad Sobari without the permission of
PT Tanindo Multimedia. All
The AYANA Resort and Spa Bali Editor in Chief rights reserved. All opinions
Nikolas Tjhin are of the writers’ and not
necessarily endorsed by
Singapore Editor PT Tanindo Multi Media, and
Michelle Lee we accept no responsibility
for unsolicited manuscripts,
Sales Manager transparencies, or other
Nadia V materials.
Finance Manager
For editorial and media
Alexander Alvin
enquiries, please contact
Contributors
Nikolas Tjhin
Mallika Naguran
PT Tanindo Multi Media
Scotty Graham
VBox 886
Debbie Reyes-Coloma
Singapore
Vannara Putra
(62) 812 7809 8888
Char Magalong
(62) 21 3221 9988
The Fairmont Beijing Hotel
Natalie Revie
nik@unearthingasia.com
Nabeetha Naseer
Bona Soetirto
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contributors
04 05 06
01
01 Mallika Naguran 04 Scoty Graham

Mallika Naguran founded and manages Gaia Scotty Graham is a freelance photographer that has
Discovery, a not-for-profit online publication been living and working in Jakarta, Indonesia for the
(www.gaiadiscovery.com), to promote eco travel past 15 years. He has been diving for over 25 years,
and living in Asia. Going beyond conservation, Mallika and has logged over 4000 dives through out the
is now focusing on restoring degraded environments world. Underwater photography keeps his interest
and improving the livelihoods of the poor. She also in diving alive as it is always a challenge, and has a
advises businesses to go green by operating in never-ending learning curve. Visit his photo blog at
harmony with nature and adopting cost-effective http://www.scottygraham.blogspot.com.
02 eco inventions.
05 Debbie Reyes-Coloma
02 Natalie Revvie Singapore-based Debbie Reyes-Coloma is a freelance
Natalie Revie is a freelance writer, restaurateur and feature and lifestyle writer for various publications in
jungle momma. She lives on Koh Pha Ngan Island the region.
in southern Thailand where she indulges in her
passion for food, culture, travel, and writing, daily. 06 Bona Soetirto
She believes in letting spirituality emerge through the Bona Soetirto is an experienced Freelance
common, the everyday – this is what makes for truly Commercial Photographer and Digital Imager
beautiful writing. for various media in Jakarta, especially fashion
photography. Not only that, he is also a photography
03 03 Barrie Lie-Birchall lecturer at Pelita Harapan University, and works as a
Barrie is a freelance writer who started his nomadic Retoucher for Reelsessions, a Los Angeles, California
steps at an early age travelling though Europe, Central based agency. Recently, he started Continuum, his
Asia and the Pacific. His love of Australia saw Barrie own center to teach Digital Imaging.
hitchhiking around the country and then across the
Tasman to New Zealand where he explored the Dresscode
country on a motorbike. But, it was the Indonesian Dresscode is the first fashion magazine in Indonesia
archipelago that mesmerised him and for the last few with the unique concept of “non-article” magazine.
decades has spent a considerable amount of his time They are fully dedicated to give you inspirations on
there ever since. what to wear, how to wear them, and where to find it!
Grab your copy now in various locations in Indonesia,
especially in major bookstores in Jakarta, such as
Gramedia, TGA and Kinokuniya outlets.
Culture, Lifestyle and Attractions
Unearthing Asia
The latest addition to your list of essential reading, Unearthing Asia is a magazine
dedicated to inspiring its readers to explore this beautiful region we call home. The
magazine is an indispensable guide to Asia, featuring exciting adventures, stunning
Koh Pha Ngan Bali sceneries and unique attractions from all over the region.
For this inaugural issue, we are generously offering our readers free one year
New Zealand’s Splashing subscriptions. And not only that, subscribers also stand a chance to win free hotel
stays at various destinations – Hong Kong, Jakarta and Bali! Turn to page 42 for
Vol 01 - Issue 01
on Jakarta + Flashpacking more details.
IDR 50.000 SGD 7.50 RM 14.00
buzzworthy!
what’s HAPPENING AROUND THE REGION
HOTEL UNDERWATER LUXURY

To coincide with its Culture Capital of
Europe nomination, Turkey is set to unveil
a 7-floor underwater hotel in 2010. This
7-star hotel will give its guests a new view
of the famous city of Istanbul, from right
below its city center. It is being built on the
ruins of a historical 1930s tobacco factory
and will house restaurants, exhibition halls,
and rooms all with underwater view. Local
experts suggest the underwater visibility
of the Bosphorus Strait is at an estimated
10-feet (approximately 3.5 meters), so
visitors can expect an amazing experience
like nothing on earth! NT.
the islands of south east asia 15

buzzworthy!
EVENT F1 EXTRAVAGANZA
Once again, the nightsky of Singapore
provides the glits and glam in an exciting
Singapore GP F1 event that is fast
becoming a highlight of the year for
race, travel and party enthusiasts. For
three days, this was Party town, with
international acts like the Black-Eye
Peas to Backstreet Boys to Beyonce all
wowing the crowds at various venues
around the circuit.
This year, despite the global economic

crisis, fans still flocked to the Marina
Bay circuit to see Lewis Hamilton take
the crown in an exciting race with Timo
Glock and Fernando Alonso taking up
the remaining podium finishes. Many
were here to witness first hand what the
fervor of F1 was all about, and they were
definitely not dissappointed by the show
on offer. ML.
buzzworthy!
One Bed Room Pool Villa Komaneka at Bisma © Komaneka
VILLA HILLSIDE VIEW

Another sister hotel of Komaneka
(www.komaneka.com) is open at
Jalan Bisma-Ubud. Nestled upon the
hillsides by the Campuhan River valley,
with amazing views of the river, sloping
rice fields and the coconut groves in
the surrounding, this luxurious resort
is designed as a sophisticated and
contemporary lifestyle destination.
With 34 spacious suites and 10 elegant

villas, each with its 12 meter long private
pool and terrace, guests are invited to
savor the tranquility and breathtaking
beauty of Ubud. The resort’s on-site
facilities include an Indonesian fine dining
restaurant, half Olympic sized swimming
pool, circular wading pool, bar, spa-
villa, gym, 1.2 mile jogging track under
canopy of trees, function rooms and
Wanasmara wedding Chapel. Ayu Asti.
Main pool Komaneka at Bisma © Agus Pande

buzzworthy!
GUIDE MIELE TIME

Following its inaugural 2008/2009 issue, the second edition of The Miele
Guide will be bigger and better, says Pauline Ooi, Associate Publisher of
the little red book. In addition to ranking the region’s top restaurants, the
2009/2010 issue will feature a host of additional information, from the top
five restaurants in each country to an overview of each featured country’s
dining scene. The guide will feature 400 restaurants across Asia, 80 more
than the previous edition, and broaden the perspective by evaluating two
more countries, Mongolia and Nepal. ML.
CHEF NEW TALENT

There’s a new face in town at the
Padma Resort Bali. The acclaimed
5-star art sanctuary welcomes its new
Executive Sous Chef, Raul Deschu,
hailing from Romania. The talented
chef has gained much experience
while working in Germany, Malaysia,
Dubai, Austria and Thailand, and will
ensure additional varieties in Padma
Resort’s Food and Beverage Outlets
and Programmes. NT.
BOUTIQUE ROYAL PALACE

The Bhuthorn is the result of four years
of renovation that sees the heritage-listed
building transformed into an elegant three
guestroom boutique hotel with intricate
attention to details. Situated in the privileged
location of Bangkok’s historic district, there
are numerous attractions worth visiting
just a walking distance away – the Khao
San Road are minutes away, as well as the
Grand Palace and Emerald Buddha. The
area is full of delicious authentic Thai food,
a perfect spot in the heart of the preserved
old town Bangkok. KA.
18
buzzworthy!
EVENT TWINS EFFECT

A special collaborative art exhibition
opened to great fanfare in the Gaya
Gallery, which ran through 6th to
30th October. The exhibit was the
production of Ida Bagus Indra,
one of Bali’s great artists, with John
O’Sullivan, hotelier, wordsmith
and artist in his own right. The
exhibition has definitely raised the
artistic bar with the fresh approach
to collaborative mixed-medium
works produced by these two fine
personalities. KA.
SPA FACELIFT REJUVENATION

A new facial treatment that addresses the issues of aging
and rejuvenation are now available at the Mandarin Spa
in Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong. The 45 minute session
incorporates a consultation with acupuncture therapy
specifically targeting wrinkles while providing numerous
other benefits.
The theory behind facial acupuncture is based on the

ancient concept that the body’s energy diminishes with
age. During the treatment, tiny, hair-fine acupuncture
needles intended to stimulate the flow of qi throughout
pathways in the body are inserted at specific points on
the face. This boosts circulation, increases collagen and
plumps fine facial wrinkles. NT.
buzzworthy!
EVENT JEWEL FEST

This year’s visitors to the annual
Singapore JewelFest were treated
to a stunning custom-built Jewel
Pavilion, which provided the perfect
setting for the two opening shows to
kick-start the week-long festivities.
The two-part showcase, themed
“Love of Romance” and “Love in All its
Glory”, showcased jeweleries worth
over S$120 million created by 25
jewelers especially for the event. NT.
RESORT LUSH LUXURY

The eagerly awaited Amantaka
Resort is ready to grace the lush
green fields of Luang Prabang. This
luxe resort from Adrian Zecha and
his team is set to take it up a notch
with refined decor, lofty spaces,
verandas, pools and tantalizing spa
treatments, on top of the pristine
environments and beautiful temples
in the vicinity. The resort also has a
yoga studio, tennis courts, a library
and an art gallery. ML.

buzzworthy!
RESORT BEACH PARTY

Nikki Beach, one of the world’s most
recognizable luxury lifestyle and
entertainment brands, has chosen the
idyllic island of Koh Samui in Thailand to
launch their latest opening, a spectacular
new Nikki Beach Club.
Discover quintessential luxury at

Nikki Beach’s remote Beach Club
Bungalow Resort, located on the west
side of Thailand’s most exotic and
exclusive island. Expertly designed for
ultimate relaxation complimented by a
sophisticated ambiance, Nikki Beach
Koh Samui brings the vibrant nightlife of
Miami to the shores of Lipa Noi Beach.
Tania Berg.
buzzworthy!
Marco Calvani & Kicky Alexander
Janet De Neefe
Wole Soyinka, Nobel Prize Winner in Literature
EVENT UBUD FESTIVAL

From 7 to 11 October, the 2009 Ubud Writers & Readers
Festival took place in Ubud, Bali, with the theme of Suka-
Duka: Compassion & Solidarity. The theme reflected the
Festival’s commitment to turn this literary gathering into
an inspiring moment, through which writers and readers
from every corner of the world can establish a mutual
understanding and come together.
Amir Muhammad The festival was a 4-day event of panel sessions, debates,
readings and in-conversations with the world’s greatest
exponents of their craft. A host of literary stars made their
appearance in the festival, such as – Wole Soyinka, the first
Wena Poon African to receive a Nobel Prize for literature; Fatima Bhutto,
the outspoken poet, journalist and novelist from Pakistan;
as well as Lloyd Jones, Mohammed Hanif, Tom Cho, Seno
Gumira Ajidarma, Wena Poon, Woon Tai Ho, Dede Oetomo,
Asitha Ameresekere, and many others.
The festival also featured a program packed full of

performances, play readings, music and song, film, humour
Julia Leigh
and, of course, food. KA.

buzzworthy!
Jajang C Noer
Didi Petet and Jajang C Noer
EVENT BALINALE ROCKS

A 6-day film festival showcasing 25 films
from 13 countries by both international
and Indonesian film-makers with the
sole purpose of promoting Bali to film-
makers and artists were held recently in
Bali. Aptly called the Balinale, the festival
also offered free workshops for aspiring
young filmmakers. The luxurious Rock
Bar at AYANA Resort and Spa Bali
played host to the closing awards party,
in which visitors were treated to original
performances by Ahtron McCanne and
Richie Perrot, as well as a truly spectacular
Bali sunset in the backdrop. NT.
buzzworthy!
BOUTIQUE SLEEK DESIGN

A swanky new hotel just hit the town with
a modern and chic feel, emphasizing
sleek design and creative innovation.
The Harbour Plaza 8 Degrees
(www.harbour-plaza.com/hp8d) in Hong
Kong boasts a unique lobby designed
by HK-based Patrick Leung of PAL
Design, featuring optical illusions and an
environment that feels like you’re inside
the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
The electric hotel features
702 charming guestrooms
and suites right in the heart
of old town Hong Kong,
giving visitors a unique
blend of old and new. NT.
DATEBOOK
festivals and events not to be missed
International Yoga Festival

For 10 days at the beginning of Spring,
Rishikesh, the yoga capital of the world,
attracts hundreds of yogi masters from
all over the globe. They congregate
on the banks of the Ganges to
explore anything and everything about
transcendental meditation.
February 28 to March 10, 2010
Goa Carnival
The famed hippie paradise begins the
year with a food-fight carnival event in
the lead-up to Lent. You’ll see oranges,
flour and even kitchen utensils thrown
about in good fun. Witness the festival’s
appointed ruler starting the party with
a Mardi Gras-inspired procession
through the streets of Goa’s capital.
February 13 to 16, 2010 Ardh Kumbh Mela

Held just once every three years, this
mass Hindu pilgrimage towards the holy
city of Haridwar is the world’s largest
Taiwan Hot Springs and gathering of yogis, sadhus, pilgrims
Fine Cuisine Carnival and devotees. Over 70 million believers
Kushimoto Fire Festival Taiwan’s hot springs culture dates back will seek enlightenment through a ritual
At the beginning of the year, the over a century. During the Carnival, of bath at the Ganges. Those looking
residents of Kushimoto perform a ritual resorts across the island offer special for a spiritual journey should consider
burning of the grassy land in front of activities and hot spring packages following suit, or you can simply stand
the Shino Misaki Watchtower. Are you for visitors to enjoy a restorative soak aside and enjoy the spectacle or take
brave enough to join in walking through paired with healthy cuisine. part in the various riverside processions
the fire? that are ongoing throughout the event.
October 2009 - January 2010
January 2010 www.taiwanhotspring.net April 14, 2010
Greytown Arts Festival
Held on Wellingon Anniversary
weekend, the Greytown Arts’ Festival
will comprise visual, performing and
Waipara Valley Wine and literary arts. Don’t miss out on the host
Food Festival of activities in the newly redesigned
Head down to Christchurch, New Town Centre, and check out the visual
Zealand, for the biggest food and wine art on display while you are there.
festival in the Waipara Valley Wine
region. Enjoy a day of fiesta with an 23 January - 25 January 2010
array of gourmet treats, superb music
and excellent wines from all over 16
countries. The World of Ancient Egypt
06 March 2010 Featuring over 230 Egyptian objects
www.waiparawine.co.nz and major works from 4500 BCE to
1st century BCE, this highly anticipated
exhibition is set to grace the National
Tokyo Sumo Tournament Museum of Singapore from December
Japan’s national sport is one that is rich through to April. The artefacts highlight
with history, culture and even religious changing Egyptian funerary customs,
background rituals which are still political intrigues, and the extraordinary
followed today. Don’t miss out on their skills of artists and craftsmen of the day.
six tournaments throughout the year, Their use of a variety of materials reveal
with the very first held in Tokyo at the geographical surroundings of workshops
beginning of the year. and artistic fashions of the period.
January 2010 22 December 2009 - 4 April 2010

The Big Durian
Jakarta Like its fruit namesake, the Big Durian of Indonesia is often a shock
to first-time travelers. It’s a heaving mass of some 10 million people packed
into a vast urban sprawl that is one of Asia’s most exciting and liveliest cities.
There is plenty to do here, from shopping at the many luxurious shopping
centers to one of the hippest nightlife scenes in Southeast Asia. Here’s a full
day itinerary in Jakarta, followed by tips from locals who call it home.
The newly renovated 08:00AM

Hotel Indonesia
Wake up to a metropolitan view of
the city in the newly remodeled Hotel
Indonesia Kempinski Jakarta. With
interiors inspired by contemporary
Indonesian art and style and located in
Jakarta’s city center, the iconic hotel is
the ideal place for business, shopping
and extravagance.
TeSaTe’s delicious local servings
10:00AM 01:00PM
Start your sightseeing For lunch, head to the Senayan area
by visiting the Salihara to enjoy authentic Indonesian food at
Community Complex in TeSaTe, a new concept restaurant
South Jakarta, an expansive that not only promotes the richness of
Gado-gado, 3000 square meters of local culinary, but highlights the unique
Indonesian Salad land that plays host to a Indonesian culture and celebration.
theater, a gallery and an Try out authentic local favorites served in
office building plus guest luxurious gourmet settings such as the
house. The gallery is an humble satay, nasi goreng (fried rice) or
empty space with circular sop buntut (oxtail soup).
walls, without angles nor
borders, providing a wider
perspective to the various
contemporary arts on
display.
Senayan City, right across
from Plaza Senayan
SPOTLIGHT jakarta
02:30PM 05:30PM 09:00PM

With your stomach and taste-bud After a day of activities, head to the Spa Kemang is also host to an array of cafes,
fulfilled, head to the Senayan area at Four Seasons Hotel to relax, refresh bars and pubs serving all kinds of drinks
for some upscale shopping at and rejuvenate. Book yourself a much to suit all tastes. For a relaxing, ambient
Plaza Senayan, where luxury deserved hour of Javanese massage, with mood, head to Casa Cafe for drinks
brands such as BVLGARI and techniques of skin rolling, long kneading and desserts. Located right above the
Louis Vuitton reside alongside strokes and acupressure to strengthen the trendy Aksara Bookstore, the cafe is a
local favorites like Sebastian’s body for the night ahead. breath of fresh air offering beers, wines
and Biyan. Right opposite, by the glass and delectable cocktails.
the newer Senayan City is Coffee lovers would prefer Tornado
also worth exploring, offering
07:00PM Coffee or Merdeka Coffee, where the
8 floors of shopping, food and The night starts with a feast at Kemang, lure of strong caffeine draws you in.
entertainment. Jakarta’s glamorous kampong
neighborhood that is popular with locals
and expats alike. Try out the delectable 11:00PM
Javanese specialties at Payon, Finally, finish your day partying it up at
where traditional touches like the Blowfish Kitchen & Bar at Wisma
clay floor tiles and swatches of Mulia, one of the most happening
batik give it a unique appearance nightspot in town. Coupled with nearby
compared to Kemang’s usually Puro, an Italian lounge and resto,
minimalist urban interior. Or you Blowfish is a luxury high-end dining
can opt to dine with a view at during the afternoon that turns into an
Shy, sited atop the 4th level at all-out clubbing scene at night.
The Papillion. The restaurant’s
Dutch chef presents daily seven
and four course menus, in
addition to their host of expert
European fusion cuisine.

SPOTLIGHT jakarta
A Middle Eastern ambiance

at Anatolia, Kemang
Local Tips
Like many other citizens of
Jakarta, Scotty and Tika
complained bitterly about the
bad traffic, especially on the
weekends. As such, they rarely
ventured too far away from home
in South Jakarta, but do enjoy the occasional excursions to
Jagorawi Golf Club one of the local golf courses – Jagorawi, Rainbow Hills
and Gunung Geulis are a few of their favorite courses. For
food, their go-to places are Peppenero (formerly known as
the Tratoria) for some excellent Italian food and the Tamat
Thai (in Kemang) for some spicy, value for money Thai food.
Also in Kemang, Anatolia is a place they reserve for special
occasions – “they serve expensive, but authentic Turkish
food – delicious and a great atmosphere!”
Over on the other side, towards the North, Yansen also

opts to avoid the traffic and heads closer to home for
food and relaxation. He recommended Segarra, off the
coast of Ancol, for a “relaxing, beach-side ambience,”
and Glasshouse in Muara Karang for that favorite past
time of boys – catching the big match. He also shared
Hotel Grand Hyatt about Dermaga, a boisterous sea-side cafe where you
can enjoy a hot and spicy offering – Bakmi Sakaw – “we
Indonesians love spicy food!” he noted enthusiastically.
For those who enjoys live music, the Fountain Cafe at
Hotel Grand Hyatt comes heavily recommended by
Sandy, who enthused “I love their live band, its also very
conveniently located and very comfortable, a great place
to chill-out and de-stress.”
INSIGHTS gadgets
Flashpacking Essentials
The simple definition of flashpacking can be defined as backpacking with
flash, or style, usually associated with tech-savvy adventurers who prefer
to travel independently. It’s a trend that aptly paints our digital culture –
we are no longer able to travel without all the luxuries of technology. For
the budding flashpackers, here are the top six essential gadgets you will
need to gear up and stay connected.
iGo Charger
The iGo universal chargers
can power thousands of
devices with its patented
tip technology. Charge
your devices wherever you
want - at home, in the car,
or even on the plane.
Novatel MiFi
US$49.99, www.igo.com
Not all countries you travel to will have a strong,
stable wireless network to keep you connected.
The Novatel MiFi creates your very own network
of broadband connectivity wherever you are.
www.novatelwireless.com
MacBook Air
Every flashpacker needs a good portable
laptop to lug around between countries, road
trips and plane flights. Enter the MacBook Air,
the ultimate in portability, performance and
design. With a 1.6 GHz or 1.8 GHz Intel Core
2 Duo processor powering it up, you’ll be
amazed at how so much power can be packed
into such a thin design.
From US$1499, www.apple.com
Canon PowerShot SX10 IS
The Canon PowerShot SX10 IS gives you a lot
of a camera and a very useful 20x optical zoom
in a body that’s still reasonably compact. It is
much better than your average point and shoot,
yet much lighter than a bulky Digital SLR.
From US$399, www.canon.com

Flip MinoHD
The FlipMinoHD is an evolution of
the original Flip Mino camcorder, which
packs a powerful machine able to record up
to 720p resolution with a full 4GB internal
memory into a sleeker, smaller model.
Apple iPhone 3GS From US$229, www.theflip.com
The ultimate must-have gadget for traveling
flashpackers, the Apple iPhone 3GS
combines more functionality, fun, flair and
overall usefulness into a single package like
nothing else. Powered up by the billion or so
applications available for download, it allows
complete customization and flexibility. It’s not
only a phone, but also a compass, a GPS map,
a currency converter and so much more!
From US$199, www.apple.com

INSIGHTS HEALTH
Singapore Stopover
For those looking for a quick break in between their long-distance flights, Singapore is the
preferred pitstop to replenish and rejuvenate. Renowned Dr K K Chew’s NU•U Aesthetics
& Wellness at Paragon is the place to go for a quick aesthetic fix, with the latest in face and
body treatments that focuses on total rejuvenation. The clinic offers a relaxing ambience that
is sure to leave you refreshed and raring to go!
Laser Face Lift

With today’s technology, the process of correcting skin-
related facial imperfections can take place as easily as digitally
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Lounging
in Transit
Business travelers are often stuck in the airport
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INSIGHTS business
Singapore
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mention a few. Lounge use is available @ S$30
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INSIGHTS recipe
Greek Connection
40
This traditional Greek favorite may look complex and
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kitchen floors.
INGREDIENTS
1 (16 ounce) package phyllo dough
1 pound chopped nuts The Fairmont Beijing Hotel
1 cup butter
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cup water
1 cup white sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup honey
DIRECTIONS
1. Preheat the oven to 175 degrees C and butter the bottoms
and sides of a pan.
2. Chop nuts and toss with cinnamon. Set the toppings aside.
Unroll phyllo dough and cut whole stack in half to fit pan. You
also want to cover the phyllo dough with a dampened cloth to
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46 Eco Paradise
Uncover the eco paradise and
scuba-diving Holy Grail of Raja Ampat
58 Beach Life
Discover Phuket’s island paradise – quiet,
tranquil, and its rowdy side as well
64 Subterranean Magic
Unearth a magical Palawan attraction
priming for international limelight
72 Coming of Age
Koh Pha Ngan is beautifully morphing
in its slow but steady evolution
78 After the Storm

Despite the threat of terrorism and
overtourism, Bali retains its hidden charms
The setting sun at Raja Ampat’s Kri Eco Resort sets
the tone for an afternoon of relaxation. Isolated and
untouched, the raw natural beauty will strike you like
no other destinations could.
Deep in
the hearts of
Papua, lies the Holy Grail
of scuba diving, Mallika Naguran
uncovers the blossoming jewel
of Raja Ampat
and its eco conservation efforts.
With photos by Scotty Graham.
the guide
Being eco can mean a number of behind the ketchup bottles, approaching
things to different people; the first thing us cautiously on the wooden table. I
that springs to mind for most is the wonder if I should remove my hand
preservation of nature. For Max Ammer, that’s resting in its path – I do love
a pioneer dive operator in Raja Ampat animals, but I don’t fancy my body
and owner of Kri Eco Resort and Sorido becoming part of their habitat.
Bay Resort at Papua, Indonesia, people
are at the heart of any ecology-related Max extends his hand out to the gecko
business. to crawl on. “You know when I built
this place 15 years ago, I didn’t have
“Eco to me means working with the to specially rear these wild things. They
local people to build a better future,” he just appeared – we have monitor lizards,
tells over dinner. A gecko emerges from ducks and birds just roaming around.”

the guide
At the Kri Eco Resort, you don’t have to go far to

enjoy abundant marine life. Right below the pier itself
are thousands of fishes swimming freely.
the guide
Everything about
Kri Eco Resort is
handmade: the
Sunset Lounge and
its lazy deck chairs,
the bamboo chalets,
the coconut leaf and
nut wall finishing and
décor. Even the bricks
Green Resort are made by hand by the senior folks,
Every night, following dinner, the guests The guest rooms at Kri Eco Resort whom Max employs, with the job title of
gaze at the juvenile bamboo sharks are also perched above the waters, “All Rounders”.
wading in the shallows just below the so a daily sight would be numerous
dining lounge on stilts. In the morning, fish species flitting around the pylons, “I want local people to make the
we are awakened by hysterical cackles seeking shelter from sea currents money,” says Max, whom revealed that
from endemic birds such as eclectis or storms. Baby barracudas pursue he could have built the resorts (including
parrots, brush turkeys, sulphur crested parrotfish of amazing varieties, tagged the higher-end Sorido Resort) and
cockatoos and hornbills. No need for along by turtles. run the operations quicker with more
alarm clocks here. experienced staff from other parts of
Little of the coral reefs at Cape Kri Indonesia. In fact, the dive crew are
At breakfast, we were startled to see a (house reef) was destroyed with the all Papuans, a number of them barely
pair of coconut crabs huddled around building of Kri Eco Resort, including made it through school.
a bamboo pylon at the lounge ceiling. the jetty that Max’s father helped to
Hideous looking as they are, they are build, aided by local talent and muscle. But Max is committed to Raja Ampat’s
also harmless and rather immobile; One such talent couldn’t measure people in more ways that one, and its
apparently they lie on coconut trees and straight, resulting in the construction of not always for business. He builds local
love cracking the solid nuts with their a not so perfect wooden platform that talent and skills in this remote region of
rock-hard pincers. I sat a respectable scuba divers walk on to get to the dive Indonesia spanning from tourism-related
distance away from them. equipment center at the end of the jetty ventures to trades for livelihood to
and to hop on to the dive boats. careers in scuba diving.

An amazing array of marine bio-diversity awaits you.
These are the stuff of legends, but sadly, one that will
not last forever.
the guide
In two single dives, a renowned
marine scientist recorded 283 and
281 fish species. A benchmark for an
excellent fish count is 200.
the guide
A consultant with Conservation

International (CI), Dr Allen canvassed
for Papua to be considered in the
organisation’s conservation programme,
and after three years, in 2001, it
happened. Plans for a marine park were
drawn; by mid-2007, the Raja Ampat
Marine Park was formally declared.
When I visited Kri Eco Resort in March

2009, I found out that the zonation and
management plans were still under
development. However, an important
regulatory mechanism had already
kicked in: the Raja Ampat Tourism
Entrance Fee of Rp500,000 that involves
the issue of an annual waterproof plastic
entrance tag.
Conservation Part of the fee goes to community

The pristine reefs of Raja Ampat and development, conservation and
the plentiful marine species were under enforcement, covering marine areas and
threat with destructive fishing practices land-based activities such as logging
such as bomb fishing and deep-sea and mining. In 2007 and 2008, priority
trawlers. The big fish started to dwindle. was given to the “Posyandu” system,
Logging and mining on the islands which is a healthcare provision for
impacted the waters with pollution. mothers and children. Something that’s
also close to Max’ heart: in the early
Max knew he had to do something to days, he had improved the water wells
stop the destruction and pollution. Raja in Raja Ampat with chlorination and
Ampat needed protection, or better, safety measures and created 13 new
conservation, or risk losing its intrinsic wells for the people.
beauty and biodiversity. It was a stroke
of luck when Dr Gerald Allen, renowned Conservation at Raja Ampat now is
marine scientist and author, ventured taking on new heights with an aerial
into this path. Dr Allen was impressed monitoring programme sponsored by
with the numerous species of freshwater CI and other NGOs. This involves a light
fishes found here, and the pristine aircraft surveillance to keep an eye on
state of corals. In two single dives, illegal activities on water and land. And
he recorded the highest count of fish the pilot keeping vigil behind the wheels
species: 283 species at at Cape Kri and is no other than Max Ammer himself.
281 at South Fam group. A benchmark
for an excellent fish count is 200.

the guide
Don’t expect to see a Western dive

guide or master at Papua Diving,
because there isn’t one. Max believes in
investing in local education and training
local Papuans, a road he has taken that
is often long and bumpy.
“They are good people and I want

them to learn a new trade and to earn
some income,” he said, hoping to get
them out of the poverty cycle. Dive
guides at Papua Diving are given proper
employment contracts. They are also
paid fair wages, provided with food and
released them. shelter, and given weekly day off plus
Nikson couldn’t regular vacation.
understand this
white man’s Sustainable Clam Trade
actions, but soon Max intends to implement various new
learnt the beauty ideas. One such plan is to introduce a
and fragility of clam farm. Papuans will learn how to
marine life. grow clams and sell them in a sustainable
fashion, and will soon learn to leave the
“He just put a giant clams in dive sites alone.
tank on me and
took me down,” Other plans afoot are homestays and
grins Nikson, who kayaking adventures around the exotic
added, “and my mushroom islands. This augments what
eyes opened wide he has already established with the
looking at the locals – bird watching tours in particular
People Welfare and Development underwater life.” Nikson, who was just the Red Bird of Paradise. Proceeds go
Nikson Soor born in Batanta, Raja 14 then, was instantly converted. entirely to the villagers, who then see
Ampat, is just one example of how a the value of this tourism activity and
Papuan is groomed to become an asset It is the start of a long and deep stop them from catching these birds and
in Raja Ampat tourism industry. This friendship between the two; Nickson selling them overseas as exotic pets.
amiable and energetic Papuan dive who is 34 years old, and Max, 47.
master is a manager at Papua Diving Today, Nikson is not just a top dive A trip to Max Ammer’s resorts is worth
with over 11,000 dives logged. guide sought after in Raja Ampat, every dime. If you plan a trip in 2010,
he is also an environment advocate, you may just enjoy his other service,
Nikson tells me that he first met concerned with pollution and illegal a live aboard dive boat, one which he
Max when he was a wee boy, selling fishing. “I will teach Nikson how to fly hopes to start designing soon - and by
turtles that he had just caught with even,” laughed Max, who is eager to himself of course.
his fisherman father. Max bought begin the aerial surveillance.
those turtles from him and promptly

The colorful corals is host
to an abundance of fishes.
A true joy to behold. It’s no
wonder how so many diving
enthusiasts gushes at the
mere mention of Raja Ampat.
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Vannara Putra uncovers
Phuket’s island paradise –
quiet and tranquil,
and unwittingly discovered
its rowdy side as well
the guide
To our right, the beach beckons – Amongst Phuket’s various beaches,

pristine white sand upon long tresses Patong Beach is the most developed,
of crystal clear water. The perfect most vibrant, and most visited one.
afternoon sun combined with fresh It’s a picture perfect postcard view of
coconuts and Thailand’s scrumptious a 3-kilometer long white sandy beach
delicacies makes it a tantalizing option perfect for swimming, lazing, and
as we ponder our next plan. To our left, enjoying challenging water sports such
rows upon rows of stalls take up shelter as jet skiing, windsurfing, snorkeling,
by the road side, vending fake Rolexes and parasailing. Various diving
and cheap tee-shirts for the shopaholic and snorkeling spots are scattered
travelers. throughout numerous small islands
around the area, easily accessible
Further down the road the alleyway by boat. From Phuket, there are also
widens and a carnival of sort entices various adventure trips heading inland
tourists with welcoming arms. Bars, for jungle trekking, mountain climbing
pubs and massage parlors lined up or white-water rafting. For me however,
both sides of the road, with catcalls and these are all secondary. Much like
whistles firing out from all around the Leonardo DiCaprio’s character in that
place. In the middle of the road, there aptly named 2000 movie, The Beach,
is a fashion catwalk with various ladies I came here to experience a slice of
(or not) costumed up with long colorful the famed island paradise – the Phi
feathers and glittering fake diamonds Phi Islands.
adorning their dresses. It’s not even
past dinner time yet, but in Phuket, the
party never really stops, even after the
devastating 2004 tsunami.

Phuket Island, of the southern coast of Thailand,
offers spectacular scenery, stunning tropical sunsets
and warm blue sea. Understandably, it is one of
Asia’s most popular beach destinations.
the guide
The Island Paradise

The journey to Phi Phi Islands was suspiciously easy to
arrange. Numerous stalls on Phuket’s crowded street offered
day-tours to tourists. Being the untrusting travelers that
we were, we negotiated for a small down-payment for our
tour arrangement, with full-payment given only when we
were picked up from the hotel. I suppose we shouldn’t have
worried – close to 98% of Phuket’s population depends upon
tourism to make a living, and as such they are always eager to
make a good impression.
The Phi Phi Islands comprises six islands surrounded by

the Andaman sea, 2 of them main – Phi Phi Don and Phi
Phi Leh. Phi Phi Don, the largest of the six, is the only island
with permanent inhabitants, but Phi Phi Leh’s beach is very
popular with the tourists as well. It was there on the serene
Maya Bay in Phi Phi Leh that the movie was shot, and while
my boat entry towards the beach was much less anti-climatic
compared to DiCaprio’s jump over a ten-meter waterfall, it
was still every bit as astonishing.
As our boat neared the bay, the crew noticeably turned down
the machine, not wanting to disturb the fragile ecosystem
below the sea. Tall breathtaking cliffs forms a circular wall
around the area, and my eyes searched around trying to find
an entrance. Suddenly, the green jungle opened up, paving a
pathway of transparent sea to a small tranquil beach. Crystal
clear water gives view to the coral beds which are home to
a wide range of sea life. Our boat anchored a little distance
away from the beach, and we were free to swim and snorkel
around the boat. The journey there was over an hour long, but
very well worth the trip.
From the pristine Maya Bay, we then made our way slowly
passing the soaring limestone walls surrounding Phi Phi Leh.
The island’s shallow blue-green lagoons and coral gardens,
with caves and passages dotting the tall cliffs, made for a
spectacular scenery. We snorkeled a little more before finally
making our way towards one of Phi Phi Don’s numerous
resorts for a hearty meal.

the guide
This spread, clockwise from right

Island hopping is a popular activity;
Stunning views from the top of Phuket;
The jetty; Hundreds of stalls offer
tourists fake branded goods
Nightlife at the Beach

Later on at night, we made our way
through the jungle of shops cramping
the coastal side of Patong beach.
Compared to the tranquil beach of Phi
Phi Islands, it made for an extreme
contradiction. A coalescence of noisy
pandemonium boomed in my ears as
I made my way through the street, be it
vendors selling various cheap imitations,
tuk-tuk drivers offering rides, and
numerous tailors touting cheap custom-
made suits. There were also the noisy
advertising of various muay-thai boxing
matches calling out to impressionable
travelers.
Those out to shop would be well On Wednesday nights, Thailand’s famed If one were to choose a word to
advised to know that these are simply lady-boys come out to play. Every bit as describe Patong beach’s street side
cheap thrills. There are indeed shops beautiful as they were rumored to be, revelries, that word would invariably be
selling higher-quality fakes and the likes, they came out dressed in long glittering “rowdy”. If you are looking for a romantic
but those are far and few between. gowns with over-the top cabaret place to dine and wine, or a relaxing
Indeed, my Puma boots were a wreck shows make-up, parading and enticing lounge to chill and rest, then this isn’t
only after a few sessions of soccer, various tourists who are eager to take the right place for you. Instead, what
and a friend’s Rolex didn’t last though photos and chat with them. Beware you would find here is a good mix of
the end of the month. You are still able that tips would be expected of these tourists and locals who are out to have
however, to find unique handcrafted miscellaneous services, a small one will a good time, drink and be merry.
items and some amazing paintings. suffice. They are also keen to promote
Haggling is a must, and you should their one-of-a-kind Thai Girl show,
always start by offering half of the which features various acrobatic acts
original starting price. performed by the ladies and lady-boys.
Be warned as well that these lady-boys
are every bit as beautiful as they were
rumored to be.
the guide
At the center of Palawan,

Char Magalong unearthed
a magical attraction
priming for international
limelight and renown
Few places in the Philippines, indeed
in all of Southeast Asia, can compare
with the beauty of Palawan. Throughout
the years, its pristine islands and sandy
beaches has tantalized the minds of
many, and few are able to resist its
charm. Puerto Princesa – its capital –
serves as a center for tourism and trade,
with most tourists using it as a stop over
before heading to the various reefs of
corals and coves around Palawan.
As I made my way into the hotel,

I flashed a smile at a group of tourists
The Puerto Princesa Subterranean River passing by. I could smell the ocean
National Park boasts a thriving wildlife and salt in the air, a sure sign of the various
a full sea to forest ecosystem, offering visitors beach activities they must have
a wide array of activities and attractions participated in – swimming at the beach,
snorkeling, or diving to the depths of
All images used on this editorial feature Palawan’s magnificent seas. I made a
were kindly provided by the Puerto Princesa mental note to check out the beach, but
Subterranean River National Park first I had a whole new city to explore.

Clockwise from top
The subterranean
river goes out
into the sea;
Mesmerizing aerial
view of the island
paradise; A thriving
wildlife; Another
point of aerial view,
another gasp of awe
If we look at the map of the Philippines Legend has it that Puerto Princesa
and the Palawan Island, we’ll find was named after a maiden who used
Puerto Princesa right in the middle, to roam the island on certain evenings
the province itself bound by the South of the year. Others would say that she
China Sea in the west and the Sulu receives her name from being a haven
Sea in the east. Totaling an area of for everyone, from the seafarers who
approximately 260,000 hectares, it is dock there to the nature lovers and
the second largest city in the country environmentalists who are amazed
with approximately 120,000 inhabitants. by the protected area. History tells
It is a city that prides on its cleanliness us however, that it was named after
and natural beauty, and has often been a Spanish Princess in 1864, Princes
dubbed the capital of ecotourism. Eulalia of Spain. When she died, the
place was named Puerto de la Princesa
and as time progressed, this was
reduced to Puerto Princesa.

the guide
Island hopping is a popular activity here,

with the Sta Lourdes wharf serving as a
port for tourists who want to rent boats
for fixed tours or to simply go wherever
they like. There are also city tours that
brings you to various attractions such as
the Iwahig penal colony, the Crocodile
Farm, Butterfly Garden and Mitra’s
Ranch. The Iwahig is a unique wall-less
prison colony where convicts act as they
would living in a village. They cultivate
rice and other crops, do fishing or carve
handicraft products for souvenirs.
At the top of my list of must-see

attractions however, was Palawan’s
most esteemed wonders – the
Underground River. The Subterranean
River National Park at Puerto Princesa is
a haven of natural beauty that has been
nominated to become one of the new
Seven Wonders of the world. Located
50km north of the capital, it boasts a
8.2-kilometer long river that goes through
a mesmerizing cave before it makes its
exit right into the South China Sea.
The journey up north was a good Finally it was our turn! As our tour guide Other than exploring the cave, Puerto
three hours drive, partially through warned us about safety precautions Princesa Subterranean River National
paved roads but also on dirt and and what not to do inside, we were Park also offers other activities such
muddy roads. As it had rained the led in slowly. The cave was extremely as mountain and rock climbing, bird
night before, the road condition was dark, and it will take sometime for watching and the likes. Aside from the
especially bad and we got stuck twice you to get used to. As such, the boat Underground River, the area boasts
on our way there. Nothing too serious, turtled onwards, gently making its way a number of cave systems worth
but a fun experience never the less. through the scintillating river. You will exploring. Climbing Ugong Rock allows
Finally, we reached the opening of be awed by the exquisite beauty of the one to view the spectacular karst
the Underground River. Right at the stalactites and stalagmites in rainbow formations and surrounding natural
mouth of the cave lies a clear, peaceful colors – a truly wondrous view. The beauty. Other areas to explore include
lagoon that supports a thriving wildlife. rock formations inside were truly one the Lions Cave, Daylight Hole and the
Monkeys, monitor lizards, squirrels of a kind, a breathtaking experience Kawili Cave.The site contains a full
and other friendly animals find their comparable to none. A regular tour lasts ‘mountain-to-sea’ ecosystem and has
ecosystem near the cave. We picnicked approximately 45 minutes, going up to some of the most important forests in
and ate our lunch as we waited for our 1.5 kilometers into the cave. Asia. Very recently, the underground
turn to get into the Underground River. river has been nominated to be a part
of the world’s New Seven Wonders of
Nature, landing in the top 77 nominees.
Previous spread, clockwise
The clouds form a magical
shadow over the National
Park; At the entrance of
the subterranean river;
Venturing into the dark cave;
Paddling back out after a fun
adventure
This page, from top

The National Park is located
low, very near the sea level;
Relaxing in the clear lagoon
at the mouth of the river
the guide
Natalie Revie journeyed

into Thailand’s
jungle paradise
to find it beautifully evolving
into a different entity
72
The island paradise of Koh Phangan is slowly but
surely attracting its worthy share of developers and
luxury travelers. But fortunately, the island seemed
determined to balance between its development and
natural charms, a relief to budget travelers and luxury
high-fliers all around
the guide
Lying in the shimmering turquoise waters of the Gulf of

Thailand, Koh Phangan is a party-goers paradise of legendary
proportions. With its infamous full moon party every month
for the last two decades, Koh Phangan has truly established
itself as the destination of choice for party-animals, hippies
and backpackers alike. Recently however, it has evolved
into 5-star boutique resort destination, an astonishing
transformation that is not unlike a blossoming of a young
flower into a beautiful, elegant lady.
Having escaped the brutal development of its sister island

Koh Samui, Koh Phangan remained until recently the quiet,
little-known sister of the two; failing to show up on all but the
most backpack savvy trails, and flying entirely under the radar
of commercial hotels and package-holiday tourism.
But change is coming to this jungle paradise isle, as the big

hotels and developers turn their beady eyes from the already
ravaged Koh Samui and realize that
today’s luxury guests want something
a little different for their dollars.
And the little-known hippy paradise of

Koh Phangan may be able to provide
exactly that. With its broad white sandy
beaches, set against unspoiled jungle
backdrops and glittering ocean, Koh
Phangan exudes a special magical
privacy to invigorate even the most
jaded international jet-setter.
Added to that, its relatively slow

development will hopefully mean it has
learned its lesson from neighboring Koh
Samui’s mistakes. At the moment it
certainly seems that way; as the small
number of developers and big hotels
moving in are not only developing with
an eye to natural aesthetics, but with a
common commitment to green ethos
and protecting the island’s gorgeous
flora and fauna.

The coast of Tong Nai Pan Noi
Attracting the most attention in the At the moment, luxury 300-thread-

5-star resort stakes is the stunning count towels lie on sun-loungers next to
Thong Nai Pan, on the northeast corner hippies on their way to the next low-key
of the lush island. Thong Nai Pan has destination of choice for backpackers.
been called ‘the jewel of Koh Phangan’ At night the jungle reverberates to the
and for years was the best kept secret sounds of the traditional Thong Nai Pan
in the region, as inaccessible as it was parties and bongo drums; but quietly, so
by bumpy pickup over an unpaved as not to disturb the guests in their $300
jungle track. dollar-a-night rooms. Who knows how
long that arrangement is set to last? But
Now Thong Nai Pan has been currently, and unusually it seems to be
recognized as the truly 5-star entirely harmonious. So the wild hippy paradise of yester-
destination on Koh Phangan and this year is changing. But uncommonly
year new luxury resort, Rasananda, In addition to these high-end tourists, for Thailand, it is being altered with
opened its doors for business, right next the beach has naturally attracted an sensitivity, taste and discretion. The
to the traditional $5-a-night backpacker interesting community of expats. Thong result is very different from days-gone-
huts of old Koh Phangan. Nai Pan’s off-the-beaten track location by – more refined definitely, but no less
has proved a huge draw to these beautiful.
That these two polar opposites – intrepid folk: the result is an eclectic mix
backpackers and jet-setters – co-exist of interests and nationalities represented Now when the full moon shines on
so seamlessly on one beach is perhaps on the beach; from Alaskan kayak- Koh Phangan, it finds not just the
testament to the special magic of builders to Israeli cheese-makers. With drunken revelers of yore, but beautiful
Thong Nai Pan. And credit must be more residences being built privately residences, resorts and restaurants;
given where it’s due to Rasananda and by small local developers, the complementing the exquisite natural
management; who have managed to community is set to increase in both surroundings, and created in harmony
create an elegant, beautiful resort that size and diversity. with the environment. As it comes of
still gives a nod to the rustic Thai charm age the jewel in its crown, Thong Nai
which entrances visitors to Thailand Pan, sets a leading example not just for
every year. Koh Phangan but for development in
Thailand as a whole.
The crystal blue water is perfect
for water sports and activities

the guide
Amidst the influx of

overflowing tourists,
Bali retains its hidden charms
and unexplored attractions,
Barrie Lie-Birchall enthuses.
Fog and mist creeping into the forest as the

setting sun envelops the horizon. Ubud, Bali.
Scenic surf and steep
cliffs on the coastline
Bali, unlike other islands in the As a paradise destination for

archipelago of Indonesia, is drenched in westerners, this became apparent when
mass tourism, and yet, the Balinese still the island of Bali became a stopover on
retain their cultural and religious ways the renowned ‘hippy trail’ in the 1960’s.
of life; unaffected. The cyclonic invasion From then on the steady flow of tourists
of this tiny island began with a trickle in increased over the coming decades.
the 1930’s with the likes of artists Walter
Spies, Rudolf Bonnet and Le Mayeur, As the tourist influx grew and Bali was
but soon became a novelty destination flooded with carefree tourists from
for celebrities such as Noel Coward, around the world, it soon became a
amongst others. Bali’s eventual step target for anti-western extremist Islamic
into the limelight was predominately due groups. In October 2002, the main
to anthropologist Margaret Mead who tourist district of Kuta was devastated
researched and documented, in-depth, by three massive bombs killing 202
the Balinese. people. The impact upon the Bali
tourism industry was immediate. Bali
was soon to be crushed again on
October 1, 2005 with a series of terrorist
suicide bomb attacks in Jimbaran and
Kuta. The Balinese feared a repeat
upon tourism that occurred previously in
2002. It didn’t happen.
The ancient temple
79
of Taman Ayun
the islands of south east asia

the guide
Bali once again enjoys boom times with

record numbers of tourists visiting the
island. There are numerous reasons this
tiny Hindu island possesses immense
appeal to westerners. Primarily, it’s a
cheap holiday destination with much
the same on offer as most South-east
Asian destinations; good shopping,
relaxed tropical atmosphere, bars and
nightclubs as well as restaurants every
50 metres. Bali is geared towards
tourists and first impressions will see you
being overwhelmed.
More than Meets the Eye

But, there is more to Bali than the
aforementioned. It is an island that
possesses a spiritual mystique woven
Green rice terraces forms a beautiful scenery
around a unique culture and a religion
that is a fascinating amalgam of animism
and Indian Hindu beliefs. In the land of a
1,000 temples, religion is the dominating It is no wonder then that Bali is so The whole island is one enjoyable
force and this can be seen in the daily appealing. Travelling anywhere across surprise after the other. Walking around
rituals and ceremonies of the Balinese. the 140-kilometer wide island yields traditional markets has always been
breathtaking surprises and everlasting one of my favourites taking in the
Travelling around Bali can be an impressions. An island covering an atmosphere of Balinese traders haggling
enlightening experience. The delightful area of 5, 561 sq kilometer and totally or imbibing in the delights of the array
thing is that wherever you go, your surrounded by crystal blue oceans it is of traditional foods. Scaling the steps of
senses are tantalised by sheer beauty. only natural that a lot of the coastline is centuries old temple and gazing at the
Green textured rice paddies clinging spectacular, and at dusk, unforgettable myriad of statues slowly being eroded
to hillsides and rugged mountains mind-blowing sunsets. Coconut-palm by time or witnessing a temple festival
are mesmerising. Being an island of lined sandy beaches and sparkling clear with the Balinese in colourful dress has
varied landscapes it affords some of waters offer some of the best scuba never ceased to amaze me. Bali has
the most spectacular panoramas in the diving and surfing to be found anywhere something to offer everybody. Talking
Indonesian archipelago. in the world. slow walks along sandy beaches at
sunset or being adventurous and bungy-
jumping off dizzy heights, or just chilling-
out leisurely wandering the streets
talking to the locals.
the guide

Pura Ulun Danu temple on
Lake Brataan, Bali, Indonesia
Unexplored Paradise called Ngis, a small village barely visible Being centrally located in the
Getting around Bali is quite easy and from the main road. In between the town archipelago, Bali affords the traveller
there are many areas in Bali that are of Amlapura and the village of Abang opportunities to visit the other islands in
rarely visited by tourists or travellers along the east coast road you will come Indonesia with a variety of inexpensive
alike. Then there are those areas to a sharp bend in the road and here flights on offer utilising numerous airline
yet to be fully developed as a tourist you will find the heavenly view. services. You can virtually travel to all
destination. The east coast of the island points of the compass and experience
is one such area that has escaped the The island of Bali is the epitome of other cultures for as many days as you
onslaught. This is one part of the island paradise. Where else in the tropics like and still return to Bali and finish your
that has always entranced me. Sleepy could you drive through a massive hole holiday.
fishing villages are dotted up and down in a sacred Banyan tree, be thrilled at
the coastline with deserted beaches the power of white-water as you raft Bali as a tourist destination in South-
lined with row after row of colourful furiously along the rapids of the Ayung east Asia has so much more to offer.
fishing boats. Inland you will find River deep in the jungle, or go fishing It is an island where you can relax in
pristine areas of dense jungle clinging with the locals on their traditional boats. sheer luxury at high-end resorts, or revel
to towering hillsides and valleys with a Bali has something for everyone. If you in the crazed tourist scene of Kuta in
carpet of rich-green rice paddies. are just a tourist with a desire to chill- budget accommodation. Bali is an island
out and relax or possesses a lust for where you can live on $10 a day quite
Not far from the town of Amlapura adventure, a passion for archaeological comfortably and an island where you
there is a place seldom seen by regular history or perhaps a nature-lover; Bali can be a global citizen in paradise and,
tourists that has the most stunning and and its friendly people have all these and it is a place that time has not forgotten
beautiful panoramic view of rice fields much, much more. but respected for its unique culture and
on the entire island of Bali. It is a place friendly people.
STYLE GUIDE
A Tropical
Affair
Unrestraint and picturesque
settings conjure a perfect beachfront
rendezvous by the seaside coast
of Segarra, Jakarta.
Photographed by Bona Soetirto,
with make up and styling by
the Dresscode Team.
Modern batik printed dress – Nila Kandi at Alun Alun

Indonesia; Heart buckled ethnic belt – Tari Maya at
Alun Alun Indonesia; Crossed-weaved heels – Dum
Dum at Alun Alun Indonesia; Ringlets Bracelet – Origo
at Alun Alun Indonesia
85
STYLE GUIDE
This Page Tie-dyed summer dress – Lilou at Alun Alun
Indonesia; Colorful Ringlets Statement Necklace – Divvy
Hippy Yippy at Alun Alun Indonesia; Rope wooden sandals
– Heroine at Alun Alun Indonesia; Batik printed clutch –
Ilalang at Alun Alun Indonesia
Opposite Page Long wool shawl (worn as a headband) –

Mellies Moss at Alun Alun Indonesia; Tube summer dress –
BIASA; Batik printed corset (worn as an obi) – Nila Kandi at
Alun Alun Indonesia; Rattan ethnic bangles (set of 3) – Diori
at Alun Alun Indonesia; Gold Ethnic flats – Giffa at Alun
Alun Indonesia; Hand-painted decorative umbrella – Nila
Kandi at Alun Alun Indonesia
87
STYLE GUIDE
Sarong style skirt (worn as a tube dress) – BIASA;

Striped vest – BIASA; Multicolor statement
necklace – Divvy Hippy Yippy at Alun Alun Modeled by Audrey;
Indonesia; Crossed-weaved beach hat – Nila Kandi Styled by the DRESSCODE Team;
at Alun Alun Indonesia; Fish scales sandals – VNC Photographed by Bona Soetirto;
Culture, Lifestyle and Attractions
Unearthing Asia
The latest addition to your list of essential reading, Unearthing Asia is a magazine
dedicated to inspiring its readers to explore this beautiful region we call home. The
magazine is an indispensable guide to Asia, featuring exciting adventures, stunning
Koh Pha Ngan Bali sceneries and unique attractions from all over the region.
For this inaugural issue, we are generously offering our readers free one year
New Zealand’s Splashing subscriptions. And not only that, subscribers also stand a chance to win free hotel
stays at various destinations – Hong Kong, Jakarta and Bali! Turn to page 42 for
Vol 01 - Issue 01
on Jakarta + Flashpacking more details.
IDR 50.000 SGD 7.50 RM 14.00
tales gourmet
Nabeetha Naseer samples

the vivacious array of culinary delights
from the region of Middle East,
and comes up with a tasty guide
for the foodie at heart.
tales gourmet Arabian cuisine usually consists of a dozen
or more small dishes. They can be eaten on
its own, but more commonly used as dip for
pita bread, or mixed with one another
92
Right, from top
Pita bread a serving of dips;
Grilled chicken with vegetables
Middle Eastern cuisines come in a wide

variety of taste, shape and color. Each
country adds their own distinct touches
to the mix, completing a vibrant map of
culinary delights throughout the region.
A common bond between them
however, is the usage of aromatic
spices. Honey, sumac, sesame seeds,
parsley, mint and chickpeas – these are
a few of the common ingredients you’ll
find throughout the region. While a meal
may exclude meat, it is almost never
without the region’s staple food, bread.
Mezze (or appetizers)

When you are in Lebanon, make sure
to try out a course of mezze and you’ll
realize right away why the tables are all
super large. You’ll be served dozens
of small dishes with exotic tidbits all
placed on the table at once Some of
the more common mezzes are the
baba ghanouj, an eggplant dip; borek,
feta-stuffed phyllo pastries and dolmas,
stuffed grape leaves. The baba ghanouj
is especially tasty, but be warned – it can For the uninitiated, kebabs are generally
be quite spicy! grilled or broiled meats over skewer or
sticks. Since Muslims do not consume
Main Courses pork, the most commonly used meat are
Depending on which country you are chicken, beef and lamb. It has become
in, the main course could vary between a part of everyday multicultural cuisines
kebabs of grilled chicken or lamb; around the globe. Iskender kebab is a
felafels, deep-fried chickpea balls; famed specialty from Bursa, northern
khoresh, lamb stew in a sweet-sour Turkey, in which thinly cut grilled lamb
sauce. It may even contain a number is basted with tomato sauce over pide
of rice dishes that is mixed with meats, bread and generously slathered with
vegetables, fruits and nuts. melted butter and yogurt.
Vegetables, salads and breads
This is the usual companion of meals. Among the common
ones are Tabboulleh (tart parsley), sautéed tomato and
eggplant with yogurt, spinach, pita, flat breads and the
traditional Jewish Challah.
Desserts and Snacks

You are normally served a small cup of sweet, thick, coffee.
One thing I learned is to leave the sludge at the bottom. It can
give your throat an itchy, uneasy feeling, unless if you are in
Iran where tea are commonly served. Other desserts include
baklava and perhaps almond crusted cookies as well. Desserts
are served occasionally. But for those who fancy desserts on
their own, most bakeries tend to sell sweet pastries and the
likes to curb your sweet tooth cravings.
Brides Fingers (Asabia el Aroos) are slender crisps of filo filled

with sweetened nuts that are popular with the locals. They
are comparable to the likes of baklava, but with lower calories
and fat. Protein and fiber are in abundance due to the inclusion
of nuts.
Meals in the Middle East are often eaten using your hands,
following the Islamic tradition that is prevalent in the region.
If you’re uncomfortable with this, do not hesitate to ask for a
fork and spoon. But if you are to try eating with your hands,
avoid doing so with your left hand, as it is forbidden in the
Islamic tradition to do so.
tales ART
Heeding the
After years of traveling

Call
around the region of Asia,
photographer Craig Ferguson
finally settled down in Taiwan.
He shared tales of his amazing
journey with Nikolas Tjhin.
Light shining into Khao Luang Caves,

Phetburi (Phetchaburi), Thailand.
The yearly pilgrimage for Mazu, The
Goddess of the Sea, in Taiwan
Taiwan home, and is starting to shift his

focus away from travel photography into
music, wedding and personal portrait
type photography.
First Love
Craig hailed from Australia, having
grown up mostly in a beach-side
suburb of Sydney. Even from a very
young age, he has always shown an
Bright red lanterns.
interest in photography, “I remember
always wanting to take pictures with my
dad’s ‘slide camera’.” He then learned
The call of Asia is a strong the ropes on his own on a Manual
one. With its numerous SLR while at school in the 1980s and
cultural traditions and some progressed from there. He initially
of the most fascinating studied science and graduated with a
sights on earth, it’s no degree in Environmental Science. Right
wonder how so many off graduation, he traveled through
people have fallen head Asia for a year, landing in Bangkok and
over heels with this beautiful simply “winging it” as he goes along. “I
region. Craig Ferguson is had nothing booked, and worked it out
one such victim, having as I went along. Somehow, I found my
fallen in love with Asia over way onto a local bus to Banglamphu,
his various treks throughout and then into a cheap guesthouse. After
Always with a camera. the region. Now, the award- that, I basically made it up as I went
Photo credit - Selina Ferguson. winning photographer calls along!” shared the enthusiastic traveler.

Japanese gate, Hualien, Taiwan.
Angkor Wat, Cambodia, a World Heritage
site and a major tourist destination
tales ART
That impromptu travel lasted a whole

12 months and more, on a path that
sees him on a very unusual backpackers
trail across Asia. He headed south
towards the Thai islands for a while, “I mostly did it alone, meeting up with So in 2001, he booked a ticket back to
then down into Malaysia before crossing other travelers along the way. I’d saved Bangkok and went on the road again.
over into Sumatra – “orangutans, lakes enough money that I was able to travel Starting out in southern Thailand, his
and surfing made up most of it,” and backpacker style for the year without so called second round of travel sees
then to Bali, transiting in Singapore, then needing to work. People often ask him journey to Langkawi, Burma and
to Lombok, back to Bali, then onwards what the best memory etc is and it’s then onto Nepal. From there he went
to Jakarta through Mount Bromo and really hard to say – there were so many to Kathmandu, and on to Lhasa, Tibet.
Yogyakarta. highlights!” “All this happened a couple of days
after the 9/11 attack in the US, so it
Having exhausted the south eastern part Heeding the Call was an interesting experience to be
of Asia, he headed back up towards After returning to Australia, Craig completely cut off from the news for five
Surat Thani, Koh Pha Ngan and then searched around for a fulfilling days at that particular time,” he shared.
Bangkok, and onwards to Nepal for opportunity, but never found it. One of the everlasting experiences of
a slower pace of life, trekking in the Following a short stint in corporate IT, this particular travel was the winter
Annapurnas and exploring the old parts local governance, hospitality and NGOs, pilgrimage season in Bodhgaya, which
of Kathmandu. He spent a good five he didn’t find anything that fits him and intrigued Craig so much that he made
months in the Himalayans region, before gave him satisfaction. “After some half- plans to return the following year as well.
heading back home to Australia, but not hearted attempts to fit into the standard
before a final couple weeks of relaxation career-track in Australia, the call of Asia
on Koh Tao. grew too strong,” he shared.

tales ART
Taiwanese opera performer from

the Xin Ing Feng Opera Group.
On that second trip to Bodhgaya, he looking for new leads and

finds himself spending time with some meeting deadlines,” he
Thai monks who were staying there. “It noted, “I wouldn’t swap it
was through them that I got to meet the for the world though!”. To
Dalai Lama – he came to visit them, and budding travel photographers,
they invited me inside their temple,” he his sound advice is to “try
narrated. Craig was privileged enough to shoot the images and
to be able to witness the ceremony subjects that give you the
between the two different Buddhist most satisfaction. Shoot
traditions, and also shake hands with what you enjoy. And then
and speak to the Dalai Lama. shoot it again. Let your own
nautral style and creativity
Settling Down show through, and you’ll find
Following that, Craig headed back east success starts to come your
to replenish his funds. He stopped in way,” he opined. “I got into
Thailand and Vietnam, before ending travel photography as a result
up in Taiwan where a friend was already of my love of photography
based. Initially, his intention was to stay and my love of travel. The rest
for one to two years, and then continue just followed.”
traveling, but he ended up falling in
love with the lifestyle here and stayed “It’s hard to choose a favorite
longer. He has now spent seven years in place because I’ve been to
Taiwan – “it was a pretty easy transition so many great places,” Craig Now, Craig is busy building a multi-
to make to life here. I spent a substantial shares. Amongst his list of highlights, faceted photography business. He is
part of the time living in one of the some stood out more than others. starting to teach photography, with
smaller cities, which was an amazing Naturally, his meeting with the Dalai group workshops and a couple of
experience. Along the way, I met and Lama in Bodhgaya is one of them, one-on-one students, with his focus
married my wife, and we have no plans “the whole India and Nepal area is one drifting a little further away from travel
to leave,” he enthused. I love, although it’s been quite a few photography since being here. He now
years since I was last there.” On top shoot a lot of portraiture, weddings and
To Craig, being a travel photographer of that, Craig also had a soft spot for music as well, and had the pleasure to
is rewarding work but hard. “As well Thailand, where he spent a few trips shoot for Oasis when they toured earlier
as all the usual frustrations of travelers photographing the various Angkor-era this year, which included interviewing
everywhere, but there’s the added ruins in both Cambodia and Thailand Noel Gallagher for 30 minutes before the
pressure of marketing, chasing clients, which have proved to be photographic show. Once again, persistence is key to
highlights. his success, a tip he constantly shares
with his students and friends alike.
Oasis, performing in Taiwan
“A Moving Sound”, a Taiwanese theater performance

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with regular audio and video podcasts along with articles
by travellers from all over the world.
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tales adventure
Splashing
Lake Taupo
Debbie Reyes-Coloma ventured
into the Kiwi’s stunning landscape
to find the Maori spirit of adventure
well fanned and alive
One of the most famous hiking routes in the Tongariro National Park
leads to this amazing sight of the Blue Lake © Destination Lake Taupo
A cliff stone carving © Darryl Torckler The Waikato River is the longest waterway
in New Zealand © Rob Suisted
The Kiwis are known for inventing Situated in the volcanic heart of the With 47 rivers and streams flowing into
some of the world’s craziest, most North Island, the Lake Taupo region is the lake, this area is renowned for trout
extreme adventures, such as bungy home to New Zealand’s largest fresh fishing and kayaking. The Waikato River
jumping and zorbing. Perhaps inspired water lake, fascinating geothermal areas is the only river flowing out of the lake.
by New Zealand’s pure natural and the famous Huka Falls. At 425 km in length, it is New Zealand’s
surroundings—from vast open spaces largest natural waterway. To the local
filled with stunning rugged landscapes Lake Taupo is Australasia’s largest lake. Kiwis, the Waikato River has always
to gorgeous beaches, awe-inspiring It was created by a gigantic volcanic been a great provider—from fish and
geothermal and volcanic wonders, and eruption in 181AD. Spanning 619 sq freshwater lobster to drinking water,
temperate climate—the Kiwi’s spirit of km, it is as big as Singapore. The lake’s irrigation and hydroelectric power.
adventure is what has attracted visitors attractive pumice sand beaches give it
from across the globe to join in the fun. the appearance of an inland ocean.
The youngest country on earth has Water activities take place in the lakes
some of the most incredible water all year round—which include water-
adventures that guests can experience. skiing, parasailing, jet skiing, fishing,
Plus there are plenty of chances to cruising, swimming, kayaking, canoeing,
take a break and continue the fun on and sailing. There is no shortage of
dry land. activities for vacationers regardless of
age or fitness. There are also many tour
operators in the region who offer day
trips or overnight camping excursions.

tales adventure
Below
Tandem skydiving will show you the most
stupendous view of the central North Island
Far Below
If you prefer your scenery with a large dash
of action, catch a jet boat ride to the base of
Huka Falls
Lake Taupo and its connecting rivers represent one of the

most prolific wild trout fisheries in the world @ Gareth Eyres
© Destination Lake Taupo Feel the exhilaration and the power of a Hukafalls Jet
(www.hukafallsjet.com) boat ride! Marvel at the incredible
© Destination Lake Taupo water level views of the spectacular Huka Falls, and enjoy
the sensation as you slide past cliffs and trees at 80km per
hour. The awesome performance of the Huka Jet boats will
put your heart in your mouth when your driver spins your
Huka Jet through 360° in its own length at high speed.
Be ready to get wet!
To scuba dive in Lake Taupo, one needs experience and

professional help because of the lake’s location above sea
level. To the amateur diver this requires skill in reading your
depth gauge. You should seek advice and assistance from
a qualified professional scuba diving school or tour operator
in the area. Should you wish to scuba dive in a volcanic
area, White Island off the coast of Whakatane is a unique
experience as New Zealand’s only active marine volcano.
Because of the warm waters, aquatic life is abundant.
You’ll never regret walking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. This 17-kilometre volcanic
trail rises to 1600 metres above sea level, leading you over ancient lava flows, up
mountain summits, along scoria slopes and through craters. There’s nothing else
like it in the world © Destination Lake Taupo
The chilly waters at the mouth of the Waitahanui Stream are easier to
stand when there’s the distraction of an amazing sunset © Gareth Eyres
Lake Taupo’s panoramic 360° views are launch Clearwater Pride. There is a full Mohaka for the adventure seeker who
amazing. A chartered cruise is one range of fishing equipment on board so needs the thrill of blasting down endless
of the best ways to experience golden guests can try fishing for trophy-sized rapids at a romping pace. Now’s your
sunsets, tranquil waters and pumice rainbow trout. Cook your catch chance to race the rapids!
beaches. Sailing on a yacht, chugging in thermal sand at Hot Water beach,
on the old steamboat or speeding where you can also enjoy a soak in At Orakei Korako, the Hidden Valley
across the lake on a launch is also a natural hot spring. The majestic (www.orakeikorako.co.nz), go back
a thrilling way to spend a day or late backdrop of a dormant volcano, in time in this unique geothermal
afternoon. The lake’s reflective waters naturally heated thermal waters and wonderland, one of nature’s true gifts.
mirror mountains, bush and sky. Make unspoiled flora and fauna provide a Cross the Waikato River by boat,
sure you have your camera with you. beautiful playground, and Clearwater and then explore a world of gushing
staff can organise a range of on-water geysers, hot springs, boiling mud pools
From parasailing to wakeboarding, and land-based activities. and some of the largest silica terraces
Lake Taupo is the ideal place to try your in the world.
nerve and your water skills. Arriving The Tongariro River is known as the
in Taupo by road as a visitor, it’s just perfect river for your first white water New Zealand has four seasons: Summer
so wonderful to see this beautiful lake rafting experience. It’s the exciting, wet, (14°C from Dec to February), Autumn
full of swimmers, sail boats, water wild adventure that any brave adventurer (10°C from March to May), Winter (9°C
skiers, speedboats or jet skis. It’s such needs to do. It’s the white water seekers from June to August) and Spring (12°C
a beautiful holiday scene with people challenge of fun. Float past ancient from Sept to November). The weather in
enjoying and relaxing on the lakeshores beech forests, through gorges, past New Zealand can change unexpectedly
despite the season. limestone and volcanic cliffs and then as cold fronts or tropical cyclones quickly
race down 50m ‘roller coaster’ rapids blow in. Check www.metservice.co.nz
Take the Clearwater Cruises at exhilarating speeds. The white water before your trip.
(www.clearwater.co.nz) through stunning rafting experience can be a peaceful
Lake Tarawera on the 38-foot luxury drifting trip on the Tongariro’s or the Visit www.newzealand.com for more
adventures off and on the ground.
The volcanic landscapes of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing never fail to surprise.
Within this world of earth tones that were spewed from subterranean magma
vaults, wild colours provide visual excitement. Here you can see the Emerald Lakes,
explosion craters that have filled with mineral-rich water running down from the Red
Crater thermal area © Destination Lake Taupo
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travel horoscope Sagittarius (Nov 22-Dec 21)
Flee as far as possible from your usual
haunts. Shed away your habitual influences
and your customary comforts. For you
Sagittarius, the time is right for a simple
break of isolation and new experiences.
Invent a new character, a personality with an
interesting back story, and enjoy a week of
acting and play-making in the isolated heights
of Tibet. After playing out your fantasy, you’ll
do well to reflect back and determine a new
direction for your personal life.
Capricorn (Dec 22 - Jan 19)

The time is right to head back
into your natural habitat, dear
Capricorn. I suspect this will
be a place flooded with sea water, a place in
between worlds, a doomed beauty that will
sooner or later die away – much like everything
else on earth actually. Venice is one such
destination, a hauntingly beautiful city doomed
to lose itself to the drowning sea. Don’t worry
too much about whether things are going your
way. Relax and go with the flow.
Aquarius (Jan 20 - Feb 18)

Party harder and smarter
than usual Aquarius. The time
is nigh to drown yourself in
alcoholic beverages of all kind. Celebrate
the coming festivities with a bang, and give
toast to the coming year. The passing year
may seem full of negative experiences, but
The isolated heights of Tibet awaits you Sagittarius
they are important in shaping you up for the
brighter future ahead. In fact, I would book a
ticket to the Christmas Islands if I were you,
Pisces (Feb 19 - Mar 20) Aries (Mar 21 - Apr 19) to boldly welcome the coming new year as
soon as possible.
You’re not fully informed According to my analysis of
– quite yet. But being in the astrological omens, the
this place feels liberating. Taurus (Apr 20 - May 20)
nonchalant Aries is largely
Suddenly, you feel able to do and say all unaware of the creative energy that has A little of bad news is coming
kinds of things that didn’t seem permissible been welling up inside you. Your homework, your way Taurus, but don’t
before. Go for it! You’ll meet up with Aries, is to let loose and tap into this creative give up – the story is far from
other people who are in similar states of energy. May I suggest a trip to the Big Durian over! Take some time out in
transformation and journey, and together of South East Asia, Jakarta? It’s a place the middle of this stressful period to collect
you’ll form quite a merry crew. Make sure all where you can do anything you want to, yourself and ponder a thought. I’m thinking
the proper forms have been filled out over or so they say. You’ll find all of your most a place of leisure and relaxation, like the
the weekend – this next part of your trip creative inner whims fulfilled with a simple southern islands of the coast of Thailand.
requires meticulous attention to make sure it snap of your finger. Renew your energy and figure out what
all goes smoothly. comes next, and then get back into it right
away after your well-deserved break.
Gemini (May 21 - June 20)
You’re totally ready to take things to the next level,
romantically or in some other way. I envision an
eventful getaway in the near future, with the sweet
smell of romance in the air. Bali is a popular place for
honeymooners, but that maybe too early for you. Maybe start of
slow, with the sun-filled days off the coast of Palawan?
Cancer (June 21 - July 22)

For the foreseeable future, the cosmos grant you the
license to thrive on the unexpected blessings that
come from giving yourself to the random intelligence of
a stranger. There will be an offer to travel and celebrate the festivities
together, away from your usual crowd of friends and family. Take it!
After all, your friends and family will still be there for you come 2010.
They can wait.
Leo (July 23 - Aug 22)

Life is just way too short to worry about people
needlessly! So if you’re wondering about what people
may think of you as you embark on this personal
adventure, fret not. Life is only worth living your own way, as I always
say. The city of Queenstown in New Zealand offers much in the way
of adventure, dubbing itself the Adventure Capital of the World. Get
set and let the adrenaline roar!
Virgo (Aug 23 - Sep 22)

The most challenging parts of your travels have
also brought you the greatest lessons. When you
think about everything you’ve done and seen, you’re
grateful for all of your experiences. Make an effort to range far and
wide during your explorations. It was said there are so many ramen
stalls in Tokyo that even if you were to eat ramen thrice a day, it
would take a good few years to try them all out. Better start now.
Libra (Sep 23 - Oct 22)

Spare no expense. Don’t put restraints on your
enjoyment or give yourself a subconscious guilt trip for
what you’re seeing and doing. All this mental liberation
leads you to want to try a few daring physical acts too, and you would
do well to follow your heart’s content – lest you live to regret this
missed opportunity for a unique experience.
Scorpio (Oct 23 - Nov 21)

Before you commence your life-long dream Scorpio,
whatever that may be, I bid you make your peace with
God. A spiritual journey is on the cards – may I suggest
the region of India? It’s an area reeking with religious mysticism, from
the Gods and Goddesses of Hinduism to the passionate compassion
of the Buddha, you’ve got it all here.
bon voyage
The winner of 2008’s Cleo Award for the Best Young culture, artistic inspirations and jaw-dropping
Designer, Stella Rissa is fast becoming a rising star in nature, and it’s all in Rupiah – much cheaper
the Asian fashion industry. Fresh off the plane from her than spending in Dollars and Yens! I go
London trip, she snuck some time out from her hectic there at least once every two months, and
my favorite places in Bali are KuDeTa for its
preparation for the upcoming Jakarta Fashion Week amazing ambiance, and the new Rock Bar
to share with us her love and passion for traveling. which simply boasts a spectacular looking
venue. I don’t really enjoy much of the
I love to travel. I love to go to new places, I often go to New York to visit my sister, at luxurious fine-dining scene in Bali, as I prefer
interesting destination that is more than just least once every two years, which is a very authentic local food, like at Warung Made.
a shopping destination. I always have a good hectic, fast-paced city that never fails to
impression for new places, and what attracts amaze. It’s a great place to go for a creative Finally, another destination that I absolutely
me the most is the culture, the food and the inspiration, because its one of the most stylish loved was Japan. I’ve only been there once,
people. I love to meet new people and find trend-setting fashion cities in the world, but but I totally fell in love with the place. The food
new perspectives to life and unique ways of you do have to be careful of overloading your was amazing, from the street-side stalls serving
life that can only be found from the lives of senses. That happens often here, it’s crazy! It’s ramen noodles (a personal favorite) to the
local people. like one world in the same place together. luxe sushi restaurants serving one-of-a-kind
delicacies, they were all superb! It is also one
Bali is another favorite, a paradise haven close of the rare places where a very strong cultural
to my hometown, and in fact its really like roots and a modern outlook in life are mixed
my second home. Beautiful people, amazing seamlessly in harmony. I’m planning for another
120
visit there actually, the sooner the better!

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