You will find additional information for the linked knitting abbreviations.

approx approximately rep repeat

beg begin or beginning Rev St st reverse stockinette
BO bind off stitch
CC contrasting color RS right side
CO cast on, cast off rnd round
cm centimeter sm slip marker
cn cable needle SSK slip 1, slip 1, knit two
cont continue together
dec decrease sl slip
dpn double pointed needles sl 1, k1, psso or SKP slip 1,
eor every other row knit 1, pass slipped st over
est established st(s) stitch(es)
inc increase St st stockinette stitch, stocking
k or K knit stitch
k1, s1, psso knit one, slip tbl through back loop(s)
one, pass slipped stitch over tog together
k2tog knit 2 together WS wrong side
k2tog tbl knit 2 together wyib with yarn in back
through back loop wyif with yarn in front
MC main color yfon yarn forward over needle
M1 make one yfrn yarn forward and round
mm millimeter needle
p or P purl yo yarn over
p2tog purl 2 together yon yarn over needle
p2tog tbl purl 2 together yrn yarn round needle
through back loop * repeat instructions following
pat pattern or between asterisk as
pm place marker indicated
psso pass slip stitch over [ ] repeat instructions inside
rem remaining brackets as indicated

1
Bind Off (BO)-sometimes seen as Cast Off
In order to remove your knitting from the needles so it doesn't unravel, you need to bind off. You will
find there are other times you need to bind off as well, such as with shaping items and buttonholes.
The British term is cast off and you may see that instruction. It means exactly the same thing.
To begin, knit the first two stitches.

Insert your left needle from left to right into

the front loop of the first stitch on the right
needle.
Pull this stitch over the second stitch and off
the right needle. You have now bound off
one stitch and will have one stitch left on the
right needle.
Now knit one stitch again. You will have two
stitches on the right needle just as you did
the first time. Repeat the process as above
and you've bound off a second stitch. One
stitch will remain on the right needle.
Continue in this same way until you have
bound off the number of stitches your
pattern tells you to.

K2tog (knit 2 together)

K2tog is a right slanting decrease.

Insert right needle as if to knit into the first two

stitches on the left needle.

Knit these two stitches together.

Be sure to knit the two stitches together just as if you

were going to knit one stitch.

P2tog (purl 2 together)

P2tog is a right slanting decrease if done on the right

side of the work.

Insert right needle as if to purl into the next two

stitches on the left needle.

Purl these two stitches together.

Be sure to purl the two stitches together just as if you

were going to purl one stitch.

Note: For clarity, the needle is only shown through

one st. Be sure to insert your needle in the next TWO
stitches.

2
 K2tog tbl
(knit 2 together through back loop)

Insert right hand needle into the next two

stitches on the left hand needle through the
back loops (the loops farthest from you);
wrap yarn over needle and knit them
together.

This stitch is often seen in lace and openwork

patterns. It slants to the left.

P2tog tbl
(purl 2 together through back loop)

Insert right hand needle into the next two

stitches on the left hand needle through the
back loops (the loops farthest from you);
wrap yarn around needle in the same way
you normally would to purl and purl the two
stitches together.

This is the most difficult of all stitches in

knitting and will likely make you feel like you are all thumbs! If you cannot seem to complete this, try
this instead. P2tog in the normal manner. Instead of placing the completed stitch on the right needle,
remove it from the left needle, twist it clockwise by hand, then place the stitch on the right needle.

K1, Sl1, PSSO

(knit one, slip one, pass slipped stitch over)

Since this is all worked in one sequence, you may see it

written as k1-sl1-psso or some variation. It is not commonly
used.

Do not confuse this with sl1, k1, psso which is more

prevalent.

Knit a stitch in the normal way.

Now slip the next stitch as if to knit.

Transfer the slipped stitch, then the knit stitch back to the left
needle, making sure they are twisted (note the different
order!).

Pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the needle.

Slip the knit stitch from the left to the right needle as if to
purl.

Make certain you slip the stitches correctly.

3
This decrease slants to the right on the right side of the knitting.

4
Sl1, K1, PSSO
(slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over)

Since this is all worked in one sequence, you may see it

written as sl-k1-psso or some variation.

You may also see it abbreviated as SKP or simply all

written out in the pattern as sl1, k1, psso.

When you come to the instruction, slip the first stitch on

the left needle as if to knit.

Be sure you slip the stitch as if to knit, not as if to purl.

Now knit the next stitch on the left needle.

Insert the tip of left needle in stitch that you slipped on

the right needle (this will be the second stitch on the right
needle).

Pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the
needle.

Sl1, PSSO, Sl1 (slip one, pass slipped stitch over, slip one)
This decrease is uncommon; it slants to the right.
When you come to the instruction, slip the stitch you just worked (whether it be a knit or a purl) from the
right needle back to the left needle.
Insert the right needle as if to purl into the second stitch on the left needle.
Pass it over the stitch you slipped back to the left needle and off the left needle.
Finally, slip the stitch (which you have already worked) from the left needle back to the right needle as
if to knit.

SSK (slip, slip, knit two together)

Insert the right hand needle into the first stitch on the left
hand needle just as if you were going to knit it.

Slip the stitch without knitting to the right hand needle.

Repeat so you have two slipped stitches on the right

hand needle.

Insert the left hand needle through the front loops of the
stitches you just slipped and knit them together.

SSK slants to the left.

5
 YO (yarn over)
There are a multitude of uses for this increase. It
forms an eyelet hole so it is often used in decorative
lace work. You can us it to form eyelets across a row
to thread drawstrings or ribbons through. It's also
used in simple buttonholes.

Remember, it forms a hole. This hole is there on

purpose!

You may see a UK pattern refer to this a yfwd (yarn

forward). It means the same thing.

Wrap the yarn over the right needle, moving it away

from you, and then under the right hand needle. It
will be looped around the needle.

Making sure the yarn over doesn't slip off the

needle, purl or knit the next stitch on the left needle.

When you work the next row, the yarn over is treated the same way as any other stitch. Just knit or purl
into it in the usual way as your pattern calls for. Be careful it doesn't slip off before you complete the
stitch.

You may see a yarn over referred to as YRN (yarn round needle), YFRN (yarn forward and round
needle), YON (yarn over needle) or YFON (yarn forward and over needle). Sometimes the yo is
referred to by these other abbreviations in different countries; other times they are used as a way to
differentiate between yarn over's that are made between a knit and a purl stitch, two purl stitches, or
two knit stitches. Regardless, a yarn over is worked in the same way. You'll only need to move your
yarn from the front to the back of the work or vice versa depending on if you are knitting or purling.
Remember, yarn in front to purl and yarn in back to knit.