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S.P.M.E. End Term Jury


MODES OF SPREADING & SPREADING MACHINES

- by

Raghav Garg
Shivam Kumar
Tarun Patel
(DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)
2

BRIEF MACHINES & CLASSIFICATION MODES OF FABRIC


INTRODUCTION TO EQUIPMENT USED OF MACHINES SPREADING
SPREADING FOR SPREADING

Contents

TECHNIQUES FOR LATEST REFERENCES


SPREADING ADVANCEMENTS
QUALITY IN TECHNOLOGY

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


3

Brief Introduction

SPREADING IN GARMENT MANUFACTURING

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


4
Fabric Spreading

 Fabric spreading is a method where plies of fabric are spread in a specific length
and width according to the garment marker measurement.
 In spreading, large rolls of fabric are unwound into long, wide tables in preparation
for cutting each piece of a garment.
 The number of layers of fabric is dictated by the number of garments desired and
the fabric thickness. Depending upon the fabric and cutting technology, many
layers of fabric can be cut at one time. Fabrics that are more difficult to handle are
generally cut in thinner stacks.
 A proper fabric spreading process in garments may effect on productivity, quality,
and cost of the production. Fabric spreading is very important task to maintain
proper shape of fabric before cutting of garments.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) http://www.definetextile.com/2013/07/fabric-spreading.html


https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781782422327000096
▪ Spread or Lay up – It is the total amount5
of fabric prepared for a single marker. A
spread of a single ply or multiple plies
❖ Types of spread -
On basis of no. of plies
Single Ply Spread – It consists of only one
Terms related to ▪
layer of fabric.
Fabric ▪ Multi Ply Spread – The number of plies in
Spreading a spread may vary as per the type of
fabric being spread.
On basis of height and length of spread
▪ Flat spread
▪ Stepped Spread

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781782422327000096
- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) http://textilemerchandising.com/fabric-spreading-process-in-garments/
https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-garment-industry.html
6
Differentiation

Flat Spread (Scrambled) Stepped Spread


 It requires a regular flat marker  It required a sectioned marker
 It consists of identical plies in terms of  It may consist of plies of varied length,
length, width and height spread at different height
 It is generally used for garments which  It is used to adjust the quantity of
have one set of all panels made into piece goods to the number of
one marker and one ply of lay will garments to be cut from each section
completely be used to construct one of the marker.
garment.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-garment-industry.html
7

HOW STEPPED LAY IS SPREAD


After a certain required number of
plies are spread, spreading is stopped
at the particular side end of the lay,
on which side spread will be stepped.
Then spreading is again started, but
this time the length of the marker is
reduced, resulting in the continuing
lay to be shorter than the original lay
length.
Depending on the type of fabric
being used, different types of
machines could be used to spread a
stepped lay.
- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) http://textilemerchandising.com/fabric-spreading-process-in-garments/
https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-garment-industry.html
Workflow of Spreading Process
8

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


PDF
9
Objectives or Requirements Of Spreading

 Shade sorting of fabric rolls


 Ply direction and lay stability
 Alignment of plies
 Correct ply tension
 Elimination of fabric faults
 Elimination of static electricity, fusion and tight selvedge in cutting
 Fabric control during spreading
 Avoidance of distortion in the spread

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) http://textilemerchandising.com/fabric-spreading-process-in-garments/


https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-garment-industry.html
10

Machines & Equipment


Used
Spreading surfaces, spreading machines, pins, weight bars
and fabric control devices

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


11
Spreading Surfaces

1. Spreading surfaces will depend on the type of fabric, spreading equipment,


cutting method and also the firm’s quality standards. Spreading requires a
flat smooth surface. For this purpose, normally a table is used.
2. If the table is being used for cutting as well, (in most of the cases it is being
used) than it should be leveled. The table must be constructed sturdily, to
bear the weight of a spread. The width and length of the table will vary with
width of the fabric and production demands.
3. Most often, the space available determines the dimensions of the table.
Spreading surfaces need to be 10” wider than fabric width to allow the
cutting knife to rest on the table.
4. A majority of the commercially available spreading tables come as
modules. This allows a factory to configure the length as required.

http://www.assignmentpoint.com/science/textile/fabric-spreading-and-cutting-
- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) section-of-garments-industry.html
https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
12
Spreading Surfaces

5. Spreading tables may have tracks or rails placed along one or both
sides or just few inches off the floor for the spreader to move up and
down the length of the table.
6. Spreading tables are usually covered with laminated or cork board
to provide a low level of friction. Special spreading tables may also
have vacuum points which are used to compress the lay.
7. Lay can be compressed up to 75%. This prevents movement of
slippery fabric and prevents shifting of fabric during cutting. Air
floatation tables allow easy movement of lay when activated.
8. Spreading tables may also be connected to a conveyor that carriers
the fabric to the cutting table.

http://www.assignmentpoint.com/science/textile/fabric-spreading-and-cutting-
- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) section-of-garments-industry.html
https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
13
Spreading Table Generic Specifications

 Module of 1x 5 mt.
 Adjustable height (27” to 43”)
 Legs every 75 cm.
 Working width from 160 to 320 cm. (on request different measures)
 Every length available starting from 1,5 mt.
 Table top made of noble fiber rimmed in abs or high density flake core,
thickness 3 cm.
 The table tops have choice of hardboard or plastic laminate

http://www.directindustry.com/prod/eastman-machine-company/product-54829-1777268.html
http://www.carontechnology.com/en/showcase/normal-tables/
- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) http://www.phillocraft.com/Products/ProductionTables/Default.aspx
https://www.advancedsewing.com/spreadingcuttingtables/unicraft.html
14
Weights & Bars

 Weights are in shape of brick like forms or long bars.


 They are generally made up of stainless steel and are ranging
from 5 kgs to 15 kgs generally.
 Most often, long bar weights are used in semi automatic
spreading machines while brick like weights are used in small
scale industries using manual operator spreading.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


15
Pin Tables

 A special type of table is used for spreading checked and striped


fabrics, which is called as pintable.
 Pintables consist of pins beneath the spreading table. The spreading
operator can raise the pins at the points where they are required.
 While laying the fabric the spreading operator pins the fabric down.
This allows the fabric to be spread without given any extra allowance
for block cutting.
 The lay can be cut as per the patterns if the marker is done as per
check matching.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) https://apparelresources.com/technology-news/production-technology/use-pin-table-cutting-room/


http://www.directindustry.com/industrial-manufacturer/fabric-spreading-table-225051.html
16

Video – Pin Table

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


17
Pin Table Generic Specifications

 Pin Lift (Electric or Manual )


 Distance between Holes: 5x5 or 10x 10 cm
 Working length (Variable, generally between 200 – 400 cm)
 Working width: 160 – 170 cm
 Needle diameter ranging from 1.0 mm to 1.8 mm - generally needles
have a rounded tip to avoid fabric damage
 Adjustable table height from 87 to 93 cm
 The height of the pins can be adjusted by turning a hand-wheel
 Different width and length on request.

https://www.morgantecnica.com/en/prodotti/104-tavolo-ad-aghi/
https://apparelresources.com/technology-news/production-technology/use-pin-table-cutting-room/
- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) http://www.carontechnology.com/en/showcase/needles-tables/
https://www.veith-system.de/index.php/products/pin-table-for-woven-fabric.html
18
Spreading Machines

 Spreading machines are of various types. Stationary, portable or fixed and


traveling machines – manual, semi-automatic and automatic.
 Stationary spreading remains in one position i.e. at the end of the table,
while traveling machines move along the length of the table.
 Manual speeds are the same as operators speed. They basically consist of
a frame or carriage, wheels traveling on the tracks, fabric support, and
guide rolls to aid correct unrolling of fabric.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) https://autogarment.com/automatic-fabric-spreading-machine/


https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
19

Classification of
Spreading Machines
Fabric Spreading

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


20
Manual Spreading

 Manually operated spreaders can be as simple as a roll bar mounted on one


end of the table. An operator pulls the fabric, taking it to other side of the
table, spreads it removing the wrinkles, creases and tension. Then it presses
the end with a weight and goes back to the mounted roll. Operator then
cuts the ply from the roll and then repeat the process.
 Other method could be a spread truck, which has a fabric roll mounted on
four wheels that is pushed along the table by an operator. The spreading
speed can be controlled by the operator who moves the machine. The cloth
is pulled carefully from the fabric roll by hand, and is cut to the appropriate
length.
 Mechanical devices can be provided to facilitate the unrolling and cutting
operations, but the proper alignment of the fabric edges is the responsibility
of the human operator. It is suitable for short lays and for frequent changes in
fabrics and colors. It is often used in small businesses.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) https://autogarment.com/automatic-fabric-spreading-machine/


https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
21

Video – Manual Spreading (By person)


Video – Manual Spreading (Spreading truck)

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


22
Spreading Truck Generic Specifications

 Spread Height Max. - 23 – 38 cm


 Roll Weight Max. – 68 Kg
 Roll Diameter Max. – 1.2 m – 1.5 m
 Roll Width Max. – 1.8 m – 2.1 m
 Machine Weight – 34 Kg

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


https://www.eastmancuts.com/product-category/products/material-handling/spreading-systems/
23
Semi - Automatic Spreading

 Spreading carriage is one of the semi automatic spreading machine.


 The cloth is unwound, and spread semi automatically, using a manually
– driven carriage.
 The carriage is moved back and forth over the laying up table. A built–
in mechanism takes care of aligning the fabric edges and smoothing
the plies.
 This system is favored when long and broad and / or if the fabric is
presented in large batches for relatively large orders. This method is
very efficient and suitable for small business.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) https://autogarment.com/automatic-fabric-spreading-machine/


https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
24

Video – Semi - Automatic Spreading Machine

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


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Semi - automatic Spreading Machine
Generic Specifications

 Cloth Width Maximum(cm) 180~220


 Table Width(cm) 200 ~ 208
 Weight of Cloth Roll(kg) 60 max
 Diameter of Cloth Roll(cm) 35 max
 Lay Height(mm) 230 (max.)
 Guide Rail Width(cm) 5

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) https://rexelpoland.com/en/product/semiautomatic-fabric-spreading-machine-ul-4


https://www.yucelmakine.com/en/portfolio/semi-automatic-fabric-spreading-machine-with-roller/
26
Automatic Spreading

 These machines may include various features, such as a motor to drive


the carriage, a platform on which the operator rides, a ply cutting device,
automatic catchers, ply counters and alignment shifter (edge guides), a
turn table and a direct drive on the fabric support and tension devices.
 Tension mechanisms ensure that the art of spreading, is synchronized with
the rate of fabric that is unrolled. The alignment shifters actuated by
photo – electric mechanisms sense any deviation from the required
alignment. In this case, they shift the roll to the correct position. Width
indicators alert the operator on any width variations in the fabric.
 End catchers hold the fabric at the end of the lay, an overfeed device
which feeds extra fabric when a fold is made. Ply cutting devices cut the
fabric across the width at the end of a lay. It usually consists of a rotary
knife blade mounted on rails.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) https://autogarment.com/automatic-fabric-spreading-machine/


https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
27

Video – Automatic Spreading Machine

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


28
Automatic Spreading Machine
Generic Specifications

 Cloth Width Maximum(cm) 160~280


 Table Width(cm) 183~303
 Weight of Cloth Roll(kg) 60 - 100 max
 Diameter of Cloth Roll(cm) 40 - 60 max
 Travel Speed(m/min) 80 – 100 max
 Lay Height(mm) 180 - 230

http://pdf.nauticexpo.com/pdf/kuris-spezialmaschinen/tables/39298-107978.html
http://www.auri-tech365.com/automatic-woven-fabric-spreading-machine-
p00098p1.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwk7rmBRAaEiwAhDGhxKiktcGI0DePIAYPYLzM3OduLfpQ-
Gu0MIQxyxhykyTYoObB6-pELBoCgnEQAvD_BwE
https://www.xidomachine.com/product/knit-and-woven-automatic-spreading-machine-zsi-160-190-210
- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) https://www.cosmotex.net/spreading-machines
https://tukatech.com/garment-manufacturing/tukaspread/
29
Turntables

 Turntables permit face one way spreading on every trip. The turntable
rotates 180 degrees at the end of spread.
 During dead heading, the machine may travel at higher speed. A
very highly automated spreader may be pre–set to a selected
number of plies. A sound indicator alerts the user when it has reached
the selected number or has come to the end of a piece of fabric.
 Some machines are equipped with automatic sensing of previously
marked flaws and damages. As the machine comes across a flaw,
the sensor will halt the spreader, the ply cutter will cut across the ply,
and the spreader will reverse direction to the nearest splice mark on
the marker plan and then continue its run.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) https://autogarment.com/automatic-fabric-spreading-machine/


https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
30

Video – Turn Table

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


31
Turntable Machine Generic
Specifications

 Material Width: 160 to 180 cm Roll.


 Weight (max): 100 - 200 kg Roll.
 Diameter: 50cm.
 Spread height face up one way (max): 24cm.
 Spread height zigzag with catchers: 17cm.
 Automatic unwinding and winding up fabric.
 Adjustable and automatic edge side alignment.

http://unicraftcorp.com/products/fabric-spreading-machines/automatic-spreading-machines/mtt1-equestrian/
- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)
https://www.cosmotex.net/fabric-spreading-machines-apolo-TT
https://www.oteman.com/en/products/spreading-and-feeding-systems/advantage-tt-turntable-spreading-machine
32

Modes of Spreading

FABRIC SPREADING

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


33

The choice of spreading mode often dictates


certain methods of fabric handling and the
choice of machinery used for spreading. The
availability of the proper spreading equipment
Introduction may restrict the choices of spreading available
for a particular facility (As all spreading
machines can not spread all modes of
spreading except for automatic spreading
machine).

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


34
Face One Way, Nap One Way

1. The highest quality of spreading is achieved by this mode.


2. Each layer of fabric is spread with the faceup (usually) permitting the
spreader to see the right side of the cloth to identify any flaw stickers.
3. The fabric is spread in one direction only.
4. This ensures that there will be no problem with nap direction in the finished
product. For this mode of spreading, the patterns in an open marker are
placed N/O/W.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-modes.html
35
Face One Way, Nap One Way

5. This is a slow method of spreading , because after each layer is spread, the
fabric is cut at the end (across the width of the table just past the
beginning of the marker).
6. The machine (in case of semi-automatic spreader) and operator
transverse back to the opposite end of the table to begin spreading the
next layer of fabric.
7. This is known as “deadheading”, a term borrowed from the
trucking industry which means, traveling without a load.
8. This process is repeated until all the plies needed are spread.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-modes.html
36
Machines used in F/O/W + N/O/W

 Manual Spreading (by person)


 Manual Spreading (Spreading Truck)
 Semi Automatic Spreading Machine
 Automatic Spreading Machine
*These methods will always have a dead heading

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


37
Face One Way, Nap/ Up/ Down

1. The second highest level of spreading quality is possible with this method of
spreading.
2. In this mode, the fabric is spread from the end of the table to the beginning. At the
beginning of the table, the spreader cuts the fabric across the width, then rotates
the roll of fabric by180 degrees (in the same plane).
3. The spreader then continues spreading the fabric from the beginning back to the
end of the table, where the fabric will be cut and rotated again.
4. This process is repeated until all the plies needed are spread.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-modes.html
38
Face One Way, Nap/ Up/ Down

5. This mode requires that the fabric needs to be symmetric, as alternating


plies are placed in opposite directions.
6. Markers for this method are most often open, Nap/ Up/ Down to take
advantage of asymmetric fabric, and are more efficient (than
Nap/One/Way).
7. The marker may be Nap/ One/ Way although there will be no gain in
quality (the only gain would be more efficient spreading time).

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-modes.html
39
Machines used in F/O/W + N/U/D

 Manual Spreading (Spreading Truck)


 Semi Automatic Spreading Machine
 Automatic Spreading Machine
*These methods can only be used if turntable is available in each machine

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


40
Face to Face, Nap/ Up/ Down

1. The most efficient (fastest) method of spreading is the second lowest quality
method which is Face to Face, Nap/ Up/ Down.
2. For Symmetric fabrics, and moderate overall quality, this method of spreading is
widely popular.
3. Starting at the end of the table, the spreader spreads the fabric to the
beginning of the table.
4. Without cutting the end, the spreader folds over and weights the fabric end
down, and begins spreading back toward the end again.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-modes.html
41
Face to Face, Nap/ Up/ Down

5. For open, Nap/Either/ Way markers, this mode produce the lowest cost of
spreading and most efficient(least costly) fabric consumption.
6. The quality is low, as the face of every other ply is not visible to the spreader to see.
7. This mode of spreading also facilitates the use of closed markers on open fabric,
Nap/ Either/Way, Nap/ Up/ Down or Nap/ One/Way (most, moderate, and least
efficient respectively).
8. This mode requires the identification of damaged parts during the sewing process
by the sewing operators, or quality control inspectors.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-modes.html
42
Machines used in F/F + N/U/D

 Manual Spreading (Spreading Truck)


 Semi Automatic Spreading Machine
 Automatic Spreading Machine

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


43
Face to Face, Nap One Way

1. When fabric is asymmetric, the Face to Face, Nap/ One/ Way mode allows the
use of an open or closed marker on open fabric that is napped or one-directional.
2. The result of this mode is fabric that is face to face, where consecutive plies will
yield pairs of parts (left and right).
3. This method is relatively slow, and produces the lowest quality, as the face of
every other ply is not visible to the spreader.
4. This mode also requires the identification of damages parts during the sewing
process by the sewing operators, or quality control inspectors.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-modes.html
44
Machines used in F/F + N/O/W

 Manual Spreading (Spreading Truck)


 Semi Automatic Spreading Machine
 Automatic Spreading Machine
*These methods will always have a dead heading
**These methods can only be used if turntable is available in each machine

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


45
Face to Face, Nap One Way (Closed)

1. Closed fabric is fabric that is folded in its length either due to the textile
milling process (as with tubular knits), or deliberately by the mill to facilitate
the manufacturing process.
2. Very wide fabrics might be purchased folded to enable the use of
narrower tables for spreading that are already in place in the facility.
3. In this mode, the spreader starts at the end of the table spreading the
fabric (tubular or folded and rolled) back to the beginning of the table.
4. The spreader cuts across the fabric width past the marker end, and then
transverses back to the end of the table to start the process again.
5. Two layers of fabric are laid on the table in one pass, where both layers are
Face/ Face.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-modes.html
46
Face to Face, Nap One Way (Closed)

6. Folded fabrics facilitate the use of closed markers where the fold is
utilized for parts that are single, in conjunction with paired parts.
7. A single back panel pattern is folded in half, and laid on the edge of
the fold. Other, paired parts are placed in the open areas of the
marker, and when cut, yield left and right pairs.
8. Use of the closed marker (half a set of patterns) speeds the cutting
process, as it takes roughly half the time to cut half a set of patterns.
9. Quality, as other Face/ Face modes is moderate at best, as half the
fabric spread is not viewable by the spreader.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-modes.html
47
Machines used in F/F + N/O/W (Closed)

 Manual Spreading (by person)


 Manual Spreading (Spreading Truck)
 Semi Automatic Spreading Machine
 Automatic Spreading Machine
*These methods will always have a dead heading
**These methods require fabric to be face to face folded and then rolled

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


48
Face to Face, Nap/ Up/ Down (Closed)

1. This mode is similar to the Closed Face to Face, Nap/ One/Way


mode except that after the first pass, the spreader does not cut the
fabric off at the beginning of the table. Instead, the fabric (two plies
Face to Face) is folded over and the spreader begins spreading
back to the end of the table.
2. This results in a Face to Face mode where pairs of plies alternate up
and down the table.
3. As this method reverses the direction of the nap, the quality is lower.
4. Unless the nature of the nap or construction is such that in the end
use of the product, the nap direction is not noticeable by the
consumer, this method would not be used.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-modes.html
49
Machines used in F/F + N/U/D (Closed)

 Manual Spreading (Spreading Truck)


 Semi Automatic Spreading Machine
 Automatic Spreading Machine
*These methods require fabric to be face to face folded and then rolled

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


50

Techniques for Spreading Quality

FABRIC SPREADING

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


51
Techniques for Spreading Quality

 Removing Tension in the lay


Relaxing overnight
Beating the Lay
Tight Selvedges
Positive fabric feed
 Cutting at the Ends
Use of Hand Shears
Wand mounted round knife
Automatic Cutting Knife

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) https://www.textilestudent.com/discussions-of-the-methods-of-fabric-spreading/


https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-garment-industry.html
52
Techniques for Spreading Quality

 Reducing fabric waste at the ends


Automatic cutting knife
 Damage Removal
Damage Control Marks
Damages in Closed Fabric
Re-Cutting
 Fabric Control during Spreading
Tissue Paper
Wax paper

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) https://www.textilestudent.com/discussions-of-the-methods-of-fabric-spreading/


https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-garment-industry.html
53
Techniques for Spreading Quality

 Ends and Damaged Goods


Ends
Damaged goods
Ends and Damages

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) https://www.textilestudent.com/discussions-of-the-methods-of-fabric-spreading/


https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-garment-industry.html
54

Latest
Advancements in
Technology
FABRIC SPREADING

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


55
The Manual Transfer Table

 The manual transfer table on wheels allows the spreader to be moved


between two spreading lines.
 It increases cutting room efficiency and is the ideal solution when facilities
dimensions are not proportional to the actual productivity needs. Built on
the same sturdy structure of the basic spreading table.
 These tables are available in 2 variants – TT on wheels & TT on rails

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) http://www.carontechnology.com/en/showcase/manual-transfer-table/


PDF
56
The Conveyor Table

 The combination between conveyorized tables and automatic


cutter provides the ideal solution for a fast and tension-free
movement of the fabric lays from the spreading area to the
cutting one.
 Being built on the same sturdy construction of the basic spreading
table, has all its features. Table top made in "PVC" band with
textile internal structure is placed over a 3 cm "MDF" plane.
 The conveyorized spreading table speed can be synchronized to
the cutter or between two conveyor tables mounted on line.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) http://www.carontechnology.com/en/showcase/conveyor-tables/


PDF
57
The Air-Flotation & Vacuum Table

 The air blowing table creates an air cushion over which the spread fabric floats in
order to be moved easily.
 Ideal for long tables and heavy weight material. Being built on the same sturdy
structure of the basic spreading table, it has all its features. Table top has holes
every 13 cm to ensure regular air diffusion and to avoid air wasting. The air pipe line,
connected to a unique hole of 10 cm placed on the back side of each table top
module, joins the table tops to the air blowing motor.
 Ideal for spreading pad and quilting material, the air vacuum table can be used on
all those situations where fabric lays volumes must be reduced or blocked before
cutting.
 It has all the features of the air blowing table but the holes on the table top that are
every 6, 5 cm to ensure perfect vacuum effect. Air vacuum and blowing can be
combined on a unique table

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) http://www.carontechnology.com/en/showcase/air-blowing-vacuum/


PDF
58

Video – Air Flotation Table

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


59
New Pin Tables

 Adjustable needle height by rotating a hand wheel


 Selected pins can be switched on and off as desired
 The needle bar position can be adjusted longitudinally with minimum
distance of 15 cm
 The needle bars can be set with maximum inclination of 12.5 degrees
 Use of special manufactured pins with a rounded tip (ball point), which will
avoid damages to the fabric

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) https://www.veith-system.de/index.php/products/pin-table-for-woven-fabric.html


https://apparelresources.com/technology-news/production-technology/use-pin-table-cutting-room/
60
Damage control mark sensors

 One of the newest advances in spreading systems is the use of automatic


sensors and marks on the piece goods to identify damages in the fabric.
 Reflective tape is applied to the fabric selvedge during the pre inspection
process. Automatic spreading machines are mounted with a sensor that
detects the tape as it passes through the electric edge control eye.
 The sensor stops the spreading machine permitting the spreader to locate the
damage and remove it during the spreading process.
 This technology is particularly useful for Face/Face modes of spreading where
the spreader cannot see the face of the fabric on every other ply. This system
can essentially assure the same spreading quality from F/F as F/O/W spreading.
Also, this system permits higher spreading speeds as the spreader is not limited
to how fast they can spread and see damages at the same time.

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-garment-industry.html-


https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
61
Other Advancements

 Heavy Roll Loaders: They are used when roll weights exceed 200 lbs per
roll. Able to manage rolls weighing over 1,200 lbs, these are used to lift the
fabric rolls from the floor to the spreading machine.
 Knife Sharpening: The knife used to cut fabric at the end of the ply are
automatically sharpened at regular intervals.
 Fabric loading at lower level: Newer machines have the fabric loading
bucket at a lower position to facilitate operators loading the fabric rolls on
the machines.
 Simultaneous Cutting: Newer machines can be linked with Automatic
CAM Cutters so that spreading and cutting could be done simultaneously.

https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-garment-industry.html
- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG) https://autogarment.com/automatic-fabric-spreading-machine/
https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
62

References

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


63
Information Source Links

 http://www.definetextile.com/2013/07/fabric-spreading.html
 https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781782422327000096
 http://textilemerchandising.com/fabric-spreading-process-in-garments/
 https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-garment-industry.html
 http://www.assignmentpoint.com/science/textile/fabric-spreading-and-cutting-section-of-
garments-industry.html
 https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
 http://www.directindustry.com/prod/eastman-machine-company/product-54829-
1777268.html

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


64
Information Source Links

 https://www.advancedsewing.com/spreadingcuttingtables/unicraft.html
 https://apparelresources.com/technology-news/production-technology/use-pin-table-cutting-
room/
 http://www.directindustry.com/industrial-manufacturer/fabric-spreading-table-225051.html
 https://www.morgantecnica.com/en/prodotti/104-tavolo-ad-aghi/
 https://apparelresources.com/technology-news/production-technology/use-pin-table-cutting-
room/
 http://www.carontechnology.com/en/showcase/needles-tables/
 https://www.veith-system.de/index.php/products/pin-table-for-woven-fabric.html

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


65
Information Source Links

 https://rexelpoland.com/en/product/semiautomatic-fabric-spreading-machine-ul-4
 https://www.yucelmakine.com/en/portfolio/semi-automatic-fabric-spreading-machine-with-
roller/
 http://pdf.nauticexpo.com/pdf/kuris-spezialmaschinen/tables/39298-107978.html
 http://www.auri-tech365.com/automatic-woven-fabric-spreading-machine-
p00098p1.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwk7rmBRAaEiwAhDGhxKiktcGI0DePIAYPYLzM3OduLfpQ-
Gu0MIQxyxhykyTYoObB6-pELBoCgnEQAvD_BwE
 https://www.xidomachine.com/product/knit-and-woven-automatic-spreading-machine-zsi-
160-190-210
 https://www.kuris.de/wp-content/uploads/pdf/en/legemaschinen_en_web.pdf

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


66
Information Source Links

 http://unicraftcorp.com/products/fabric-spreading-machines/automatic-spreading-
machines/mtt1-equestrian/
 https://www.cosmotex.net/fabric-spreading-machines-apolo-TT
 https://www.oteman.com/en/products/spreading-and-feeding-systems/advantage-tt-
turntable-spreading-machine
 https://www.textilestudent.com/discussions-of-the-methods-of-fabric-spreading/
 http://content.inflibnet.ac.in/data-server/eacharya-
documents/56b0853a8ae36ca7bfe81449_INFIEP_79/83/ET/79-83-ET-V1-S1__unit_1.pdf
 http://www.textotex.com/application/static/data/file/eng/Can%20UNAL.pdf
 https://arxiv.org/pdf/1903.07557

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


67
Information Source Links

 https://www.morgantecnica.com/en/products/machinery/spreaders-range/
 https://www.google.com/amp/s/autogarment.com/automatic-fabric-spreading-
machine/amp/
 http://www.carontechnology.com/en/showcase/normal-tables/
 http://www.phillocraft.com/Products/ProductionTables/Default.aspx
 https://autogarment.com/automatic-fabric-spreading-machine/
 https://www.scribd.com/doc/265155957/Spreading-and-Cutting-of-Apparel-Products
 https://www.cosmotex.net/spreading-machines
 https://tukatech.com/garment-manufacturing/tukaspread/

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


68
Information Source Links

 https://www.veith-system.de/index.php/products/pin-table-for-woven-fabric.html
 http://www.carontechnology.com/en/showcase/air-blowing-vacuum
 http://www.carontechnology.com/en/showcase/conveyor-tables
 http://www.carontechnology.com/en/showcase/manual-transfer-table/
 https://www.eastmancuts.com/product-category/products/material-handling/spreading-
systems/
 http://www.hashima.co.jp/e/products/product0050.html

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


69
Video Links

Manual Hand Spreading: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zvhniTWhpY


Manual Truck Spreading: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f36vYhrzAuc
Semi-Automatic Spreading: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac_rhEMmyqg
Automatic Spreading: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHnGggHmyiA
Turntable: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1A5ylMsBpqk
Pin Table: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7sljeNGiYSE
Air Flotation Table: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPJX98C6Pi0

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)


70

THANK YOU!!!

- by Raghav, Shivam K & Tarun (DFT 2017-21, NIFT-GNG)

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