Women's Textiles

Trend Concepts A/W 21/22

Conscious Clarity
Embracing the beautiful
restraints of living with less

Minimalism and timelessness align for A/W 21/22,

resulting in natural and technically enhanced fabrics
to create better classics

@alpjewelry
 Conscious Clarity
Embracing the beautiful restraints of living with
less

After an era that has been defined by choice, how do we
adapt to restraint? Conscious Clarity embraces the beauty,
innovation and opportunity that comes from living with less.
Across the world, the impact of climate change is revealing
itself in increasingly devastating ways, and living smaller
and smarter is becoming an imperative rather than a choice.
In South Korea, for example, food waste recycling has
increased from just two percent in 1995 to 95% in 2019
thanks to strict government policies, and in the Netherlands
(and soon beyond), new startup Gibbon is making it possible
to go on vacation without luggage (or frivolous pre-vacation
purchases) by renting excess inventory from retailers to
travellers. The free rein of libertarianism is being supplanted
by the beautiful restraints of limitarianism.
For design industries, this shift to a more minimalist mindset
will take a number of forms. In apparel, expect to see hi-tech
and performance-focused fabrics in everyday wear and
tailoring, offering greater durability and versatility. In beauty,
look out for simpler and more precisely targeted products.
And in lifestyle and interiors, there will be a re-prioritisation of
leisure and time affluence. We will also see a re-evaluation of
retro themes across all categories, not through the slavish
recreation of specific styles or decades, but through pieces
that are more broadly rooted in classic design.
Fittingly, this direction can be best summed up by the prolific
German industrial designer Dieter Rams, whose dictum
amounts to just three words: “Less but better.”
 Action Points
1 . Fabrics in their purest form deliver timelessness and minimalism:
prioritise noble and natural fibres such as cotton, silk and wool in
their simplest, purest forms to address consumer focus on de-
materialisation and a less-is-more mindset. Enhance qualities with
mercerised sheen and calendered fluidity for core separates and
luxe-touch suiting.
2 . Build versatility into apparel with technical fibres: offer value-
added everyday qualities to your consumer. Outerwear, utility
classics and core tailoring feature invisible performance and
durability via climate-ready weatherproof protection. Look for
premium technical blends such as Recover, as well as insulating
qualities such as Econyl, Newlife and Repreve nylons and
polyesters.
3 . Enhance sustainability through fibres and mechanical finishes:
use organic and natural RWS, GOTS and FSC-certified fibres,
keeping blends pure for optimum circularity. Offer streamlined and
toxic-free decorative techniques such as fabric manipulation.
4 . Offer reassurance through soft comfort: in a climate of anxiety,
softness will be an increasingly important quality for fabrics and
finishes. Padded quilts and felted wools offer enveloping and
cocooning comfort. Heritage colour-woven checks and stripes with
a sense of nostalgia also play into the appeal of the comfortable
and familiar.

Sicky Magazine
Timeless Tailoring

Ladies & Gentlemen Studio

The concept: A focus on buying better rather than more

will see a shift to smart minimalist dress codes,
establishing products as timeless and seasonless core
investments. New focus is on fluid simplicity, drape and
BITE Studios soft volume for unisex modern luxury, as seen at brands Pani Ani Ani
such as BITE Studios.
Fibre & yarn: Explore the subtle lustre and silky handle of
cellulosics such as Lenzing Tencel and Naia for lighter
qualities, and RWS worsted and RMS mohair wools for
semi-satin suiting-weights. Elevate blends with Ahimsa
silk for more luxurious ranges.
Construction: Reiterate sleek minimalism by keeping
surfaces smooth with calendered twills and peached
satins.
Relevant for: smart and smart-relaxed suiting, shirts,
blouses, tailored dresses and separates
Elyaf Tekstil Yunsa
Duvet Comfort

DK&D

The concept: Create a sense of enveloping duvet-like

cosiness with minimalist quilting volumes and soft
wadding qualities, marking homely comfort as the
ultimate for all-day luxury.
LVIR
Paul Phung
Fibre & yarn: Apply sustainable materials inside out.
Start with natural thermal lining, such as Flocus kapok
stuffing, or post-consumer waste insulation such as
Polartec. If opting for feathers, look for the RDS
certification. GOTS cotton outer layers will ensure
brushed softness, while recycled polyester qualities offer
technical weatherproof attributes.
Construction: Develop cloqué and retracted double cloth
with organic textures for more subtle volumes. Use
dogtooth and herringbone motifs on heat-bonded or
embossed surfaces for a smarter feel.
Relevant for: coats, jackets, waistcoats
Yekpa Tekstil Leathertex
Traditional Tech

Ami

The concept: Enhance traditional sartorial looks with

invisible technical performance. Use innovative
Clemence Gautier
developments to future-proof the relevance of classic
JA Fabric by Takisada Nagoya tailoring against challenges of modern lifestyles.
Fibre & yarn: Opt for recycled qualities such as Recover,
which blends noble wools with PET nylon for improved
strength, softness and inherent moisture wicking. For
enhanced comfort via extra stretch, look to Eco Lycra or
sustainable elastane such as Roica.
Construction: Add flexibility to sartorial checks via woven-in
mechanical stretch. Double-faced, heat-bonded and needle-
punched layers offer extra protection and durability.
Relevant for: tailoring, coats, jackets

Tailong Holdings Group Co., Jiangsu Sunshine Group,

Fabrics China Schoeller Textil Fabrics China
Luxe Fluidity

@colville_official 1+ in the family

Fusion CPH

The concept: In a move to reduce and streamline multiple processes and techniques,
decorative aspects are pared back to minimalist fabric manipulation, mastered by
modern brands such as Loéil. Barely-there flowing patterns are also important in this
story, evoking a sense of sensual softness and fluidity.
Fibre & yarn: Use organic peace silks and FSC cellulosics such as Tencel, Cupro and
Naia for luxurious sheen, drape and buttery handles – ideal for eveningwear.
Construction: Look for charmeuse, georgette and crêpe-back satin, engineered
seersucker stripes, airy cloqué blistering, and heat-set plissé placements. Replicate
swirling patterns with tonal or matte-and-shine jacquards.
Relevant for: blouses, dresses, intimates
Kosuke Nishimura

Marina Moscone
 Softened Classics

Dash + Miller

Raw Edges
Dash + Miller
JA Fabric by Takisada
Nagoya

The concept: Classic influences remain key for blouse- and dress-weights, aligning with
timeless values. Play into a less-is-more sensibility with subtle palettes and pared-down
softened marks and patterns, which can give textiles a more casual look.
Fibre & yarn: Keep surfaces light with organic and premium GOTS cotton crepes and lawns.
Add texture with linen, and use Cupro or Modal for smarter shirting and dresses. Blend with
fine worsted wool or mohair for mid-weight suiting and outerwear. Explore shadow and soft
focus effects with space-dyed and melange yarns.
Construction: Grids, overchecks and stripes have a versatile quality, working well for casual
and smart applications. Padded micro-quilts offer soft structure for outerwear.
Relevant for: shirting, dresses, tailoring, separates, jackets, loungewear
Bav Tailor Rare Thread
Brushed Canvas

Lola Lely

The concept: Beautifully worn and aged canvas textiles

gain a higher regard as an end-of-more consumer
Contributor Magazine
mindset drives a broader appreciation of long-lasting,
JA Fabric by Takisada Nagoya performing qualities.
Fibre & yarn: Add authenticity with deadstock or
reclaimed cotton, linen and jute bases. Take inspiration
from eco-experimental dye studios such as Lola Lely,
giving qualities a new lease of life by dyeing or
overdyeing with natural ingredients.
Construction: Add a luxe edge to papery qualities with
brushed finishes, giving humble materials a more
comfortable feel. Explore natural protective coatings
such as beeswax, lanolin and eco-latex.
Relevant for: shirts, dresses, separates, jackets

Yilmaz Kumascilik Tekstil

Yilmaz Kumascilik Tekstil

Papery Purity

Klauber Brothers

The concept: Honest simplicity in materials is driving a

purist quest for unrefined tactility, unprocessed colour,
and the elimination of toxic finishes. Look to age-old
handcrafted techniques to inform artisanal and
Rare Thread imperfect textures, as seen in Sun Lee's hanji paper Sun Lee
textiles.
Fibre & yarn: Paper and naturally textured linen, ramie,
bamboo and jute enhance rustic hand-looms and
powdery surfaces. Use paper cords and tape yarns to
accent brushed RWS lambswool bases.
Construction: Crochet-mimicking lace and domestic
embroideries, jacquard tweeds, and repurposed frayed
nubuck from makers such as Kotai Tannery.
Relevant for: tops, dresses, separates, jackets

Kotai Tannery Pauline Esparon

Carefully Repurposed

Re;Code Lola Lely

Waste No More

The concept: A focus on zero-waste and circular manufacturing will shift conventional
perceptions of beauty, fuelling innovative approaches to repurposed textiles,
championed by the likes of Eileen Fisher. Pieced, patched and mended fabrics become
more delicate and refined, taking on a value akin to artworks.
Fibre & yarn: Factor in circularity via efficient recyclability or biodegradability of natural,
organic and pre- or post-consumer waste cottons, linen, hemp and silk.
Construction: Needle-punched layers of sheer offcuts and scraps play with parchment-
like translucency and create a build-up of colour. Employ engineered patchwork as a
decorative placement focus.
Relevant for: formal pieces, with sheer qualities for occasionwear
Aurelia Jordan Kuo

Waste No More
Revisited Nostalgia

Deveaux

Juste Magazine

The concept: Retro and vintage-inspired textiles evoke a

sense of nostalgia and familiarity, reminiscent of
archival and keepsake pieces. Use heritage patterns to
form the base of new era-less colour-woven designs.
Dash + Miller
Fibre & yarn: Source RWS-certified robust shetland and
lambswool for insulating outerwear and tailoring.
Undyed, twisted and nepped qualities are key for Dash + Miller
authentic textures. For lighter weights, use recycled wool
and cashmere such as Re.VerSo. Finer organic cotton
and linen blends add a slubbed and dry handle to
shirting.
Construction: Develop layered herringbones and spliced
Argyles for jacquards, exploring oversized ribs and
tartans in dobby stripes.
Relevant for: shirts, tailoring, jackets, coats

Milk Decoration Kathryn Sullivan

Recycled Felt

Chloe Frost, RCA

The concept: Desire for comfort and protection will give

rise to soft boiled and felted woollens, with pre- and
Marina Moscone
post-consumer waste streams providing endless fibre
Doppelhaus resources.
Fibre & yarn: Seek inspiration from designers such as
Marina Moscone, who turns denim yarn waste into
wool-soft fabric, featuring multicoloured yarn flecks as
decoration. Consider innovative developments such as
CloudWool by Doppelhaus, mechanically recycled and
pre-dyed wool, or recycled polyester for warmth and
lightness.
Construction: Play with haphazard colour and pattern
in needle-punched, non-woven felt, and add structure
with overstitching. Lofty roving yarns create spongy
tactile dimensions in tweeds.
Woven Studio Relevant for: separates, jackets, coats
Doppelhaus
Timeless Utility

Wujiang Yaofa Textile Co., Fabrics China

The concept: The shift towards trend-less dressing will

keep perennial utility and military directions at the
Song for the Mute
forefront of casualwear, evolving them with elevated
Zhejiang R.G.B Textile Printing & Dyeing
Co., Fabrics China fabric handles and texture nuances for contemporary
basics.
Fibre & yarn: Add weightless technical properties to
proofs via premium recycled polyester such as Newlife
and sustainable Q-Nova or Econyl nylon. Blend GOTS or
Recover cotton with Tencel for a smarter silky-like drape
with a brushed finish.
Construction: Irregular micro ribs, seersuckers and heat-
retracted crinkle will look sophisticated on tonal
grounds. Also explore sportier structures with double-
sided embossed qualities.
Relevant for: casual and smart-relaxed shirting, dresses,
@hannahlambtextileartist tailoring, jackets, coats
Stib 19
 Industry Credits & Collaborations
Thanks to the following fabric and textiles mills, weave design studios, and university undergraduates who collaborated with WGSN
to provide sourced seasonal developments and exclusive samples for the A/W 21/22 Trend Concepts reports.

Mills Stib19 Featured designers

DK&D Tailong Holdings Group Aurelia Jordan Kuo

Elyaf Tekstil Takisada Nagoya

Photography
Fantasie Tricot Yekpa
Julia Skliarova
Fusion CPH Wujiang Yaofa Textile Co.

Jiangsu Sunshine Group Yilmaz Kumas University of Brighton

Kotai Tannery Yunsa Tutor: Caterina Radvan

Tel: +44 (0)1273 600 900
Leathertex Zhejiang RGB Textile

Schoeller Featured student

Kathryn Sullivan
 Industry Credits & Collaborations
Studios
Dash + Miller
Dash + Miller studio specialises in the design,
development and production of woven fabrics for the
global fashion and interiors industries, using
experimental yarn, structure, colour and finishing. Its
portfolio of original samples offers an inspirational
range, complete with technical information for mill
design and development. A consultancy service is
offered for specific projects, including mixed-media
designs, screen-prints and hand-wovens. The studio also
collaborates with a high-end UK womenswear mill to
produce a seasonal collection of fabric available by the
metre.
Juliet Bailey
Tel: +44 (0)20 3002 0553
Rare Thread
Rare Thread produces a seasonal collection of woven
and multi-process fabric swatches using carefully
sourced yarns and materials. With a broad range of
experience in design development, the studio is fully
equipped to work on projects from trim and fabric
development to meterage that is hand-woven in-house,
while also offering industrial production solutions with
different weaving mills in the UK and around the
world. With extensive knowledge of yarn suppliers and
textile manufacturers, the studio has the capacity and
expertise to conduct experimental research using new
and unusual materials.
Laura Miles
Tel: +44 (0)793 053 4721
 WGSN Macro Forecast 2022
The trend matrix, from Future Drivers to Trend Concepts

The Fear Factor Climate Urgency Degrowth for Good Balancing Age Mass to Micro Global Power Shift Migratory Patterns

Digital Identities Digital Identities The Pleasure Principle Digital Identities Made in Nature
The Pleasure Principle The Pleasure Principle Creating Intimacy The Tactile Internet Decolonisation
Survival Mode The Tactile Internet Time Affluence Pre-Futures
The Horror De-Materialisation

Tech-Celleration Design Resolution Leverage

the Local
Selling Survival Pleasure With Purpose

Phantasmagoria Conscious Clarity New Mythologies

FUTURE DRIVERS FUTURE INNOVATIONS BIG IDEAS TREND CONCEPTS

Business Strategy Product Design

 WGSN Macro Forecast 2022
The report timeline for WGSN's 2022 trends

FUTURE DRIVERS
Annual
November 2019

The global macro- Seasonal A/W 21/22:

Annual
economic drivers that Oct 2019 – Feb 2020

FUTURE INNOVATIONS
November 2019 Annual
will shape 2022, and Seasonal S/S 22:
January 2020

TREND CONCEPTS
strategies for success Apr 2020 – Aug 2020
The 12 areas of innovation
that will lead

BIG IDEAS
Future Drivers and Future
transformation across Innovations Trend Concepts present
industries in 2022, and contextualised for the the seasonal design
their implications for Fashion, Beauty, and directions for each
Annual department, with more
FUTURE CONSUMER

business and culture Lifestyle & Interiors

January 2020 than 40 reports published
industries
twice a year
The key consumer
sentiments and profiles
that will disrupt Fashion / Beauty / Lifestyle &
industries in 2022 Fashion / Beauty / Lifestyle & Interiors only
Insight / Fashion / Lifestyle & Interiors only
Interiors only
Insight only

Business Strategy Product Design

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