Twist Collective

The Bead Goes On

By Susanna IC
 
To say that I like to add beads to my knitting would be an understatement—I simply love working with
beads. Those tiny little nuggets of happiness can add a bit of sparkle to any project, add lovely weight
and drape where needed, and even add interesting texture to plain stockinette.
 
There are many types of beads available but not all are suitable for knitting. Some have sharp edges
that could shred the yarn; others have openings that are too small for yarn to pass through. In general,
seed beads, with their rounded edges, are a safe choice and can be placed anywhere in the knitted
fabric. These are available in shapes as well as the classic rounds; cube- and triangle-shaped seed beads
have smooth facets that catch light beautifully. And some fun, new shapes, like the elongated teardrop-
like Magatama beads, just beg to be placed along the edges of a project. A plain crystal bead is lovely
but there are also many gorgeous colours and finishes available, with new ones coming out all the time.
Beads can be made from clear or coloured glass, have shiny or matte surface, and pearlized, metallic, or
rainbow (AB) finishes. Some have metallic or coloured linings that help them stand out from the
background yarn colour. The possibilities are truly endless. You can choose beads that match your yarn
perfectly for just a hint of elegant sheen, or you can go all out and choose a highly contrasting bead for
a pop of unexpected colour.
 
Size Matters
Beads come in a variety of sizes; here a quick reference chart for the most popular seed beads for
knitting:
Size                Metric             Number of beads per gram
8/0                  3.1mm                       40 beads per gram
6/0                  4.0mm                       12 beads per gram
5/0                  4.5mm                       10 beads per gram
3/0                  5.5mm                        6 beads per gram
The beads per gram is just an approximate number for reference; the exact number can vary from
manufacturer to manufacturer and even in beads with different finishes from the same manufacturer.
 From left to right: size 8/0, 5/0, 6/0, and 3/0 beads.
 
The most important thing to remember when looking at bead sizes is that the smaller
the number the larger the bead.

The most popular bead sizes for knitting are the:

 8/0 3.1mm beads, suitable for lace and some lighter fingering yarns, and the
 6/0 4.00 mm beads, for fingering and sport weight yarns.

The larger sizes of beads, such as the:

 5/0 4.5mm and the 3/0 5.5mm, can be used for DK and worsted weight yarns.

Smaller beads like 11/0 2.1mm seed beads are much too small for most knitting
applications save for a few cobweb lace yarns.
 
Size isn’t the only thing to consider when choosing beads for your project.
Yarn weight and the number of beads required are just as important. For example, if a
lace weight shawl calls for only a few beads, a larger bead size can have more impact.

The 3/0 size may be appropriate at a few points along the lace-weight shawl’s edge, but
it would be much too heavy if used for a shawl calling for 1,000 beads. In that case, the
8/0 beads would be a better choice.
 

Stringing Along
In general, there are two methods of adding beads to knitting: the pre-stringing method
and the place-as-you-go method. Both have their pros and cons, and applications where
one is more appropriate than the other. The pre-stringing method is just that, the beads
are strung onto the project yarn ahead of knitting with a beading needle and then
slipped into place as needed. It is quick to set up, just string the number of beads
required by the pattern onto the yarn and start knitting. Keep in mind that there are
some drawbacks. The weight of the beads can abrade or even break the yarn, leaving
you with extra tails to deal with. Some knitters string only a portion of the total beads
and then break the yarn and string the rest. This puts less strain on the yarn but still
results in extra tails to work in at the end pf the project. I reserve pre-stringing for
beaded cast-on or bind-off because the beads will not be on the yarn long enough to
abrade it.
 

For the pre-stringing method, use a beading needle to slip beads on to a length of yarn. 
 
Personally, I prefer the place-as-you-go method for almost all applications. The idea is
that each bead is placed on a stitch as it is worked, so there is no chance that the
combined weight of the beads can break the yarn. Unlike pre-stringing, where each bead
sits on a single strand of yarn and can easily slide out of place, the place-as-you-go
method ensures that each bead is anchored by two strands of yarn making it much less
likely to migrate. This is particularly important if the beads are outlining a specific shape,
as it can become distorted if a bead moves.
 
Several different tools that can be used for this place-as-you-go method: a crochet hook,
dental floss, bent jewellery wire, fishing line, or knitting beaders. These all work in the
same way—the bead is placed on the tool, then the stitch is hooked to the end of it and
the bead is pushed from the tool onto the stitch. The beaded stitch is then returned to
the left needle and worked as indicated in the pattern. No one tool is better than the
other and everyone has their own favorited; just make sure that the tool you choose fits
through the hole of the bead together with a double-thickness of yarn.
 Pre-stringing Method
1. Work to where you want to place a bead.
2. With yarn ‘in back’ of work, slip the next stitch purl-wise.

Work to where you want to place the bead. With yarn ‘in back’ of work, slip the next stitch purl-wise.
  
3. Slide a bead up and move it to the back of the slipped stitch.
4. Work the next stitch while holding the bead in place with your thumb against the
needle to prevent it from moving; the bead should be in front of the slipped stitch, not at
the back.

Work the next stitch while holding the bead in place with your thumb against the needle to prevent it
from moving; the bead should be in front of the slipped stitch, not at the back.
 
 

Place-as-you-go Method
1. Work to where you want to place a bead.
2. Slip the bead onto the beading tool.
 
 Slip the bead onto the beading tool. 
 
3. Slip the next stitch from the left needle onto the tip of your beading tool.
 

Slip the next stitch from the left needle onto the tip of the beading tool.
 
4. Push the bead from the beading tool onto the stitch.
5. Transfer the stitch back to the left needle.
 Transfer the stitch back to the left needle.
 
6. Knit or purl the stitch as usual.
 
Over the years, many knitters have asked me how and where to add beads to a pattern
that does not include beads or has fewer than they would like. Let’s look at my new
pattern, Brina, which is designed for fingering-weight yarn without beads and talk about
some of the possible places to add them. For easy reference, the swatch is worked in a
light-coloured yarn with different sizes of brightly coloured glass seed beads throughout,
as examples of placement (it’s unlikely that I would use this many colours and sizes
together in one project, but that’s just a matter of personal preference). After each bead
was placed, I simply knitted or purled the stitch depending on how the original stitch was
charted.
 A few examples of different bead placements. 
 
1. Beaded cast-on (8/0 3.1mm clear crystal silver-lined beads)
The pre-stringing method was used to place beads on the yarn. The beads were slipped
into place as each stitch was cast on. I beaded every other stitch, but you can place as
many beads along the edge as you’d like.
 
2. Beads placed at the end of a textured motif for extra interest (5/0 4.5mm amethyst-
lined beads with AB/rainbow finish)
Use your preferred tool (I used a crochet hook) for the place-as-you go method, adding
beads on the last stitch of each motif.
 
3. Beads in place of nupps (3/0 5.5mm deep-teal beads with iridescent finish)
Replace the charted nupps with larger beads using the place-as-you-go method.
 
4. Beads placed at the centre of an open lace motif (6/0 4.0mm blue crystal silver-lined
beads)
Use a crochet hook (or your preferred tool) to place a bead on each knit stitch in the
centre of the yo-k1-yo sequence. The extra space created by the neighbouring yarn
overs helps the beads stand out.
 
5. Beads placed as an outline for the lace motif (6/0 4.0mm ruby red silver-lined beads)
Use a crochet hook (or tool of your choice) to place beads on knit stitches situated next
to the lace motif decreases.
 6. Beads placed during bind-off (3/0 5.5mm light-green beads with matte finish)
Use a crochet hook (or your preferred tool) to place a single bead on the stitch at the
point of each leaf lace motif, then work the bind-off as usual.
 
7. Beaded bind-off (8/0 3.1mm dark amber, gold-lined beads)
Cut the required length of yarn for the bind-off (I usually estimate about four to five
times the length of the final row, more if a loose bind-off is required). Pre-string the
beads, then slip them into place on each stitch as you work the bind-off.
 
These are just a few examples for incorporating beads into your knitting; the actual
possibilities for bead placement are endless, limited only by your imagination. Keep in
mind that even a few strategically placed beads can make the simplest of knits unique
and distinct. There is an entire universe of beads out there to discover, so go on and
have fun with it. Just a small warning before you begin your exploration—knitting with
beads can be addictive and it won’t take long to accumulate a rather largish bead stash
(ask me how I know). Thankfully, beads take up a lot less space than yarn or fibre, so
you’ll have plenty of room for both.
 
After nine years in Europe, Susanna IC now lives in San Antonio with her husband, two sons, one guinea
pig, and countless balls of yarn. She has an extensive background in studio arts and art history, which
inspires much of her knitting. Her projects and designs can be found on Ravelry, username zuzusus, and
at www.ArtQualia.com.

Source: https://www.twistcollective.com/collection/107-articles/2091-the-bead-goes-on accessed 27.11.2018