––– FASHION

SUBCULTURE
If fashion is cultural then fashion subcultures are
groups organized around or based upon certain
features of costume, appearance, and adornment
that render them distinctive enough to be recognized
or defined as a subset of the wider culture.
· WHAT IS A SUB CULTURE?
A subculture is a group of people within a culture
(whether distinct or hidden) which differentiates
them from the larger culture to which they belong.

Fashion has always been a way of expression.

These subcultures were formed as breakaways
from rigid societies and communal norms.
Groups that identified themeselves and
adapted everything that was not
“mainstream”. 
While there were tea parties and elegant suits,
th
ey stood apart by wearing ripped jeans and
printed Tees. While women were asked to
dress like ladies the hippies and punks begged
to differ. These sense of identification soon
became a strong fashion statement.
WHY PEOPLE JOINS
IN A SUBCULTURE:

“we are authentic”

“our club”
“hate government”
“fight against common odds”
“secrecy and dark side”
“creative addiction”
“craze”
 What inspires to develop
a subculture.

➢Society
➢Economy
➢Movies
➢Animations
➢Comic strips
➢Intellectual and cultural climate
➢Music movements
➢Addiction
➢Fantasy
➢Myth
➢Innovation/discovery
➢Disaster
 A certain number of gang members gather in to form a
subculture because their attitude + interests +opinion
matches.
List of subcultures

•Skinhead
•Punk
•Goth
•Hippie
•Cowboy
•Hiphop
•Heavy metal
•Minimalistic
•New wave
•pin-up
 Skinhead
The skinhead subculture originated among working
class youths in London, England in the 1960s and soon
spread to other parts of the United Kingdom, with a
second working class skinhead movement emerging
worldwide in the 1980s. Motivated by social
alienation and working class solidarity, skinheads (often
shortened to “skins”) are defined by their close-cropped
or shaven heads and working-class clothing such as Dr.
Martens and steel toe work boots, braces, high rise and
varying length straight-leg jeans, and button-down collar
shirts, usually slim fitting in check or plain. The movement
reached a peak during the 1960s, experienced a revival in
the 1980s, and, since then, has endured in multiple
contexts worldwide.
Style
Hair
Most first wave skinheads used a No. 2 or No. 3 grade clip
guard cuts (short, but not bald). From the late 1970s, male
skinheads typically shaved their heads with a No. 2 grade
clip or shorter. During that period, side partings were
sometimes shaved into the hair. Since the 1980s, some
skinheads have clipped their hair with no guard, or even
shaved it with a razor. Some skinheads sport sideburns of
various styles, usually neatly trimmed, but most skinheads
do not have mustaches or beards.

Clothing
Skinheads wear long-sleeve or short-sleeve button-down
shirts or polo shirts by brands such as Ben Sherman, Fred
Perry
 Punk
Punk subculture includes a diverse array
of ideologies, fashion, and other forms of
expression, visual art, dance, literature and film.
It is largely characterised by anti-establishment
views and the promotion of individual freedom,
and is centred on a loud, aggressive genre of
rock music called punk rock. Its adherents are
referred to as "punks", also spelled “punx” in
the modern day.
There is a wide range of punk fashion, including
deliberately offensive T-shirts, leather
jackets, Dr. Martens boots, etc., hairstyles such
as brightly coloured hair and spiked mohawks,
etc., cosmetics, tattoos, jewellery and body
modification. Women in the hardcore scene
typically wore masculine clothing.
The punk subculture emerged in the United
Kingdom, Australia, and the United States in
the mid-1970s.
 Goth
The goth subculture is a music subculture that
began in England during the early 1980s, where
it developed from the audience of gothic rock,
an offshoot of the post-punk genre. The name,
goth subculture, derived directly from the music
genre. Seminal post-punk and gothic rock
artists that helped develop and shape the
subculture include Siouxsie and the
Banshees, The Cure, Joy Division,
and Bauhaus. The goth subculture has survived
much longer than others of the same era.
 Hippie
A hippie (sometimes spelled hippy) is a
member of the counterculture of the 1960s,
originally a youth movement that began in the
United States during the mid-1960s and spread
to other countries around the world. The
word hippie came from hipster and used to
describe beatniks who moved into New York
City's Greenwich Village and San
Francisco's Haight-Ashbury district. The
term hippie first found popularity in San
Francisco with Herb Caen, who was a journalist
for the San Francisco Chronicle.
Hippies often chose brightly colored clothing
and worn unusual styles such as bell-bottom
pants, vests, tie-dyed garments, dashikis,
peasant blouses and long full skirts non
-western inspired clothing.
 Cowboy
 cowboy culture is the lifestyle, or behaviorisms, of,
and resulting from the influence of, the (often
romanticized) attitudes, ethics and history of the
American Western cowboy and cowgirl.[1] In the
present day these influences affect this sector of the
population's choice of recreation, clothing, and
consumption of goods. Today, the Western lifestyle
is considered a subculture and includes strong
influences from Native American and Mexican
American, as well as aspects of African
American and Asian American cultures.
The origins of cowboy culture go back to the
Spanish who settled in New Mexico and later Texas
bringing cattle.[2] Prior to the 19th century, ranchers
were primarily Spanish while those working it
were Indigenous. By the late 1800s, one in three
cowboys were Mexican and brought to the lifestyle
its iconic symbols of hats, bandanas, spurs, stirrups,
lariat, and lasso.
 Hip hop
Hip hop or hip-hop, is a culture and art
movement developed in the Bronx in New
York City during the late 1970s. The origins of
the word are often disputed. It is also argued as
to whether hip hop started in the South or West
Bronx. While the term hip hop is often used to
refer exclusively to hip hop music (also
called rap),[6] hip hop is characterized by nine
elements, of which only four elements are
considered essential to understand hip hop
musically. The main elements of hip hop consist
of four main pillars. Afrika Bambaataa of the
hip hop collective Zulu Nationoutlined the
pillars of hip hop culture, coining the terms:
"rapping" (also called MC or Microphone
Commander), a rhythmic vocal rhyming style
(orality); DJing (and turntablism), which is
making music with record players and DJ
mixers (aural/sound and music creation); b-
boying/b-girling/breakdancing (movement/dan
ce); and graffiti art.
 Heavy metal
Fans of heavy metal music have created their
own subculture which encompasses more than just
appreciation of the style of music. Fans affirm their
membership in the subculture or scene by attending
metal concerts – an activity seen as central to the
subculture, buying albums, in some cases growing
their hair long, wearing leather jackets and t-shirts
with band names and logos and most recently, by
contributing to metal publications.[1]
Heavy metal fans have created a "subculture of
alienation" with its own standards for achieving
authenticity within the group.[5
While the audience for metal is mainly “white, male,
lower/middle class youth,” this group is “…tolerant of
those outside its core demographic base who follow
its codes of dress, appearance, and behavior”.[6] The
activities in the metal subculture include the ritual of
attending concerts, buying albums, and most
recently, contributing to metal websites. Attending
concerts affirms the solidarity of the subculture, as it
is one of the ritual activities by which fans celebrate
their music.
Metal magazines help the members of the
subculture to connect, find information and
evaluations of bands and albums, and “express their
solidarity”.[7] The long hair, leather jackets, and band
patches of heavy metal fashion help to encourage a
sense of identification within the subculture.
However, Weinstein notes that not all metal fans are
“visible members” of the heavy metal subculture.
Some metal fans may have short hair and dress in
regular clothes.

minimalistic
In the late 1950s and early 1960s, a wave of new inspirations and ideas led young artists to begin
emphasizing the materiality of their works, rather than explicit symbolism and emotional content,
creating what we now call minimalism. This new form of art favored the "cool over the dramatic". In
other words, artworks accentuated anonymity and obscurity over the more emotional and expressive
styles of Abstract Expressionism, popular in the 1940s and 50s.

Minimalists attempted to distance themselves from Abstract Expressionists as they removed any
inferences to their identities or emotions from their artwork.

Later in the 1990s, Calvin Klein introduced American minimalism with several clean, simple
monochrome collections. 
 New wave
The new wave as a whole is quite confused concept, because it is bound with too much tendencies and
bands, which have only part of the new wave sound. As it may sound strange, Sex Pistols were the
perpetrators who bring this trend in 1976. They do it as an alternative to our well-known punk. In fact
the term was equivalent to the vanguard and stylish new French film new wave direction of the 60s.

Later the new wave transforms in direction, which is no longer the same noisy nature, but rather with
more pop sound. Despite the difference between punk, new wave and post punk there is a common
trend - a vigorous reaction against the general opinion of overproduction of the non-inspiring then pop
music of the 70s.

Pin-up
In the late 19th century, many burlesque dancers used photographs to promote themselves. Pin-up
became more popular in the mid-20th century. The word pin-up was used because these images were
mass produced to be "pinned up" on the people's walls. Models included fashion and glamour models as
well as actresses. It gave new beauty standards and a rise on sex appeal.

Now a days, the modernized term pin-up can also refer to drawings, paintings, and other artwork
including photographs.
It can also be identified as models who dress in vintage clothing inspired by the pin-up era.
Fun Facts
Males, such as famous actors, were also pin-up models, Pin-up models were also used as
motivation for soldiers fighting in WWII. Pin-up was put on ads on newspapers, magazines, and
postcards,Values, self-confidence, female empowerment, self-expression.
Pin-up photos were also well known as cheesecake photos Pin-up posters became popular from
the mid-20th century as they were becoming mass produced.