Aquarium

Aquarium Photo Background or Paint the background - see Aquarium Aquascape Design for
more info on painting the tank background.
Aquarium substrate such as live sand or crushed coral
Live Rock
Saltwater Mix
Saltwater Hydrometer or even better a refractometer
Aquarium filter (not absolutely necessary if running with adequate amounts of live rock, but nice
to have if you need to use a mechanical filter or activated carbon, etc.)
Replacement filter media like filter floss and activated carbon (if you get a filter)
Multiple Powerheads (2 or 3)
Heater - be sure to get one large enough for the size tank you're getting
Protein Skimmer - See the equipment reviews section for protein skimmer reviews
Saltwater test kit(s) to test water parameters and monitor the infamous aquarium nitrogen cycle
Saltwater fish food
Aquarium vacuum
Fish net
Rubber kitchen gloves
Aquarium Glass Scrubber or make your own DIY Algae Scraper
Two, clean, never used before, 5-gallon buckets
Aquarium thermometer
Brush with plastic bristles (old tooth brush) - needed for cleaning the live rock
Quarantine Tank for acclimating new arrivals and monitoring for signs of fish disease
Power Strip
Optional but definitely recommend getting a Reverse Osmosis or RO/Deionization filter for the
make-up water.

Realize the responsibility, time and costs involved

A saltwater aquarium setup is just like having a dog or a cat when it comes to the amount of effort
on your part. In order to have a successfully setup saltwater aquarium you will have to work at it.
On a daily basis you will need to feed your saltwater fish and monitor the water parameters
(temperature, nitrates, etc) and some of the aquarium equipment on your saltwater setup. Once a
week, or at most once every month, you will need to perform some kind ofaquarium
maintenance on your fish tank. Most of the time you will be performing water changes and water
quality testing.
Cost is a very serious factor. Take the list above and research the prices of the various
equipment needed to setup a saltwater fish tank. You will soon realize that a saltwater aquarium
can cost significantly more to purchase than afreshwater aquarium setup. Not to mention that
saltwater fish are usually more expensive that their freshwater counterparts.
You also need to understand that setting up a saltwater aquarium takes time. It often takes 4 to 8
weeks before you can add any marine fish safely to your marine aquarium setup.
Select the area of the house where you want the tank to be. Put the tank in a area of the
house which isn't drafty, near a radiator, near a window, in direct sunlight, or near other sources
of fluctuating temperatures, for example kitchen areas . Also avoid areas which can get overly hot
or very cold. Don't put it in a very busy area, but make sure you can see it enough to enjoy it!
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Buy the largest aquarium that will fit in your space, or the largest aquarium your budget
will allow. Larger aquariums provide a much more stable environment, because the water
chemistry will be easier to maintain over time.
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Choose between acrylic or glass. Acrylic will scratch easily but is easier to drill and is much
lighter. You can buy a tank pre-drilled, or if you are handy do it yourself (using a diamond bit hole
saw). Some fish shops and glass stores will also provide this service. A tank with an "internal
overflow" is a big plus. These are often sold as "reef ready". It is better to choose a tank that is
not too deep(e.g. 24 to 30") so you can reach the bottom easily; a tank that is wider will provide a
better depth of view for a more natural look as well as have better light penetration. A second
smaller tank (a sump) is placed under the reef ready aquarium and will hold all the equipment out
of sight. A sump is not a need per se, but it is nice to be able to hide equipment in as well as
increasing the overall water volume in your system.
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Choose your lighting: Metal halide lamps provide the best lighting for most of the corals
commonly kept, other forms of lighting are also obtainable and offer varying degrees of success.
250 watts bulbs will suit most common aquariums except for the deeper ones where 400 w bulbs
provide more light penetration.The color spectrum of the bulbs (expressed in color temperature in
Kelvins) is a matter of personal preference. Bulbs between 10,000 kelvin and 20,000 kelvin are
the most popular, and the higher the kelvin rating the 'bluer' the color. Some claim coral growth is
affected by the color, but corals grow fast and successfully on either end of the 'spectrum'. One
halide bulb for every 2-3 feet of tank length is usually recommended.
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Other types of lights to consider are florescent lighting, specifically high intensity
fluorescents. Two popular kinds are Power Compact and T5, or T5HO (meaning T5 high
output). These can be found in many of the same color ratings as metal halide bulbs, and are
often cheaper and produce less heat than a metal halide. A popular choice is to use both
florescent and metal halide. The main thing to keep in mind when choosing a fluorescent T5
fixture is to make sure to buy one with individual reflectors. While the lights do put out a fair
amount of light with regular parabolic reflectors, they become amazingly bright using individual
reflectors. Many people choose to use a single color of metal halide, like 10000k, and will use a
few blue (or Actinic) fluorescents to make the color more pleasing.
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Set up the filtration: On a smaller tank (less than 40 gallons) regular weekly water changes can
be used in place of a skimmer. If you have chosen to buy a larger tank (40+ gallons) a protein
skimmer is a very important piece of equipment to purchase. Get a good quality protein skimmer
and place it in your sump or on the back of your tank if it is designed for it. Do not skimp on this.
Often protein skimmers are under-rated for the size of tank, so in practice a skimmer rated for a
100 gallon tank is barely adequate for a 50 gallon reef tank (especially one with many fish that get
fed a lot). Needle wheel skimmers are a popular choice, and can be very effective for their
size/cost. Don't rely on 'venturi' skimmers, unless they are high end models with very strong
pumps. Don't bother buying 'canister' filters, often used on freshwater aquariums. Not only are
they fairly useless in a marine aquarium environment, they can cause a buildup of Nitrates on
their internal media that can negatively effect the aquarium. That being said, a canister filter can
be used for carbon or other chemical media, provided it is cleaned on a regular basis.
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Adjust the flow: Now is time to get a saltwater rated pump to return the water from your sump to
the main tank. Additional powerhead pumps in the tank or external pump(s) should be installed to
provide additional vigorous turbulent flow, which is crucial to the survival of your future corals.
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Place a heater(s) in your sump, or the rear chambers of your tank.
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Consider using an aquarium chiller. The high intensity lighting used in reef aquariums adds a
surprising amount of heat to the aquarium, making it harder to keep a reef aquarium 'cool'
enough. Although heat issues are not as much of a problem in cooler countries like Canada,
you'd be surprised just how much the heat can creep up on a warm day in your tank. The point is
to try to keep the temperature variation minimal. The less your temp. varies throughout the day
and night, the more stable your marine environment will be.
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Fill the tank with tap water partially to test for leaks. Run all your pumps. Turn the sump
pump off to see how much water drains into it. Use a piece of tape to mark your "maximum" water
line. That is the maxiumum amount of water that can be in your sump before it overflows. You
can also put a piece of tape down for the minimum fill line, which is the minimum amount of water
required in your sump to get the pump to work and not blow air into your display. Run the water
level somewhere between those two lines. The chamber housing your pump is usually the one in
which you will notice a drop in the water level due to evaporation. There are auto top off kits
available to top your water off daily with fresh dechlorinated water(no salt). Alternatively, you can
top off manually by marking where you want your water level to be and then keeping it full to that
line with fresh dechlorinated water (preferably RO/DI).
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Prepare enough artificial seawater for the volume needed. Use only a good aquarium sea salt
brand and purified water with a Reverse Osmosis or R0/DeIonization Filter. Another option is to
fill the tank with RO/DI water and then add the salt. The importance of RO/DI system cannot be
understated. Tap water can be used, but your aquarium is then at the mercy of whatever harmful
chemicals may be in it. A good RO/DI system is not too expensive, and should be considered a
necessity. A 100 gallon per day model is a good choice, because you won't have to wait too long
to make purified water which is a nice convenience. If your tank is smaller you can purchase
bottled RO water at your local store. Use of distilled water is not recommended as most
distillation units use copper pipes. Copper is toxic to most invertebrates; including corals,
decorative shrimp, etc.
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Once you mix your saltwater and fill your aquarium, turn on all your pumps and let the
water 'rest' for a day. It takes a little time for your salt to dissolve and your water chemistry to
stabilize, and the action of the pumps will drive out excess carbon dioxide (which initially causes a
low pH). You can add sand if you choose to, either before adding your water (if it is not a live bed)
or after. If it is a "live" sand bed, add it after you have mixed your saltwater in the tank. Leave the
skimmer off until the sand settles. A sand depth of 4 to 5" is recommended for maximal detritus
biological processing. Some folks prefer the look of the sand bed, but don't want the possible "old
tank syndrome" that can come with having a deep sand bed. (Old tank syndrome happens when
the sand bed has accumulated more detritus than it can handle and may result in a "tank crash" if
pockets of toxic H2S are stirred up in the bed.) A 1-2" sand bed can also be used as long as the
detritus is vaccumed out on a regular basis.
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Another way to go is not to add sand at all. This is called "bare bottom". It is much easier to
keep the tank clean with a bare bottom, as you can easily siphon out the detritus. It's not as
pleasing to the eye perhaps, but for many people, the ease of keeping it clean makes up for that
fact.
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Add 'live rock' and arrange to your liking, approximately 20% of your volume. The rock can
be placed on an aragonite sand bed, or alternatively you can add the rock prior to the sand. Live
rock can be obtained online, from other hobbyists or at your local marine aquarium store.
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Let the tank "cycle": This means you will need to wait until the water tests negative for ammonia
and nitrite. Inserting bits of frozen fish foods in the sand bed can speed the cycle. (This is un-
necessary if you added live rock. There are plenty of dead crustaceans and worms already inside
due to shipping). This may take 1 to 6 weeks. Algae blooms can be a natural part of the cycle.
Check and make sure the salinity is stable at 1.023 to 1.026. This does not mean it can be 1.023
one day and 1.026 the nest. FInd the salinity you want and keep it at that level. 1.025-1.026 is the
optimum salinity for corals; a lower salinity is inappropriate for inverts/coral. A fish only tank can
be kept at 1.021-1.026. Compensate for evaporated water losses with RO/DI water. Keep the
temperature, Calcium and Alkalinity levels stable. Do not use commercial "supplements" other
than water changes unless you know what you are doing. Algae blooms are common for probably
the first 6 months of your aquarium, so don't be alarmed to find new algae growing. Just keep it
clean and do about a 10% water change every week. Once your tank is stable you may choose to
slow down the water changes. Ensure the new water has been heated and mixed for a while in a
separate container prior to putting it in your tank.
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Add cleaning creatures such as snails, small hermit crabs and finally reef fish.
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Many aquarists feel its not proper to being adding corals and anemones until the tank is a
few months old. A 'mature' tank is much more suitable for growing coral. A good rule of thumb is
to watch your live rock. At some point you will notice your rock or your glass developing spots of
purple. The purple encrustation you see is called coralline algae. The right conditions for coralline
are correspondent with the right conditions for coral. You will seen new crustaceans, worms,
feather dusters, coralline and more. Once you see this marker, assuming your test kits still read 0
for ammonia and nitrite, and less than 20ppm for nitrate, you can begin to add coral.