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Fashion Intelligence

Post-Coronavirus: China Design Priorities

JN BY H o me

Seven key directions to help businesses navigate consumer needs in China, post-
pandemic, from versatile designs for home to virtual designs for gaming and online
worlds
Action Points
WGSN China has identified seven design priorities to
guide brands through the post-pandemic period, based
on our cross-industry analysis of 2020/21 trends.
1. At-home versatility: design items that are suitable for
different occasions and functions, as home-oriented
lifestyles lead to increased focus on comfort and utility.
2. Functional and protective: incorporate protective
functions into your designs to create a sense of security
for anxious consumers.
3. Healing and restorative items: be inclusive and offer
designs with healing properties to address the lasting
repercussions of the pandemic.
4. Transseasonal appeal: create designs that can adapt
to seasonal changes, tapping into the consumer
mindset of buying 'less but better'.
5. Embrace nostalgic themes: nostalgia will have
stronger appeal as an antidote to a changed world.
Focus on designs that bring consumers back to a
peaceful, happy place and create a sense of familiarity.
6. Esports and digitalisation: these areas are ripe for
growth, so be bold in trying out a digital approach and
be one of the first to tap into these markets.
7. Explore dark aesthetics: unsettling visuals will give
anxious consumers a sense catharsis. In the uncertainty
of a post-Covid-19 world, a variety of looks will emerge
that broaden definitions of beauty.
@ /T er r y _ F
Stay at Home
Analysis Inspiration
According to iiMedia Research, more • Ostrich Pillow makes hoods and
than 300 million people in China pillows for disconnecting or resting
worked from home during the 2020 at home or on the go, using crease-
Chinese New Year. The shift towards resist and anti-odour fabric
#stayhomestyle will require brands to
• Maison Margiela layers a boxy
subdivide loungewear categories and
blazer on top of a hoodie and shirt
tap into market potential. O st r ich Pillo w T echno Gy m
to create a comfortable yet smart
This new lifestyle will also impact look
tailoring, with the emergence of smart • WHOLEGARMENT makes seamless
yet comfortable two-mile dressing. knits with 3D technology to offer
WGSN predicted the rising impact of comfort and a second-skin fit
working from home in 2018 with our
Considered Comfort trend. The current • Lululemon redefines business-
situation has accelerated this trend casual with upgraded loungewear
and is redefining business-casual. that is comfortable enough to be
worn indoors and smart enough to
As the home becomes a multipurpose be worn outdoors
space for resting, working, exercising
and socialising, consumers will expect • Rosetta Getty offers sophisticated
loungewear to combine functionality two-mile slippers with plush uppers,
and comfort, and it will need to be tapping into indoor/outdoor style
smart enough for short trips in their
neighbourhood.
Maiso n Mar giela
Stay at Home:
Design Priorities
• Two-mile co-ords: take inspiration from sartorial sets
to create smartened-up loungewear items
• #Bathleisure separates: a combination of athleisure,
business-casual and slounge. Basic core items in terry
cloth, waffle checks and other bath-inspired fabrics
create layered indoor/outdoor dressing and bathrobe
looks
• Monotone or tone-on-tone: use light or neutral
shades to send a message of calm and wellbeing.
N ike S no w Peak
Explore our #enhancedneutrals trend for more on this

Further Inspiration
• Two-mile co-ords Totême, Nothing Written,
Victor Li, Hed Mayner, Lululemon
• Bathleisure Nike, Vestment, Lunya, Rossell,
Snow Peak
• Monotone/tone-on-tone Oysho,
Le 17 Septembre

Le 1 7 S ept embr e Cho r ust y le E milia Wickst ead


Function & Protection
Analysis Inspiration
The fashion industry will be facing • The laser-cut, waterproof and
unprecedented challenges in a post- bacteria-free graphene jacket by
pandemic world. As predicted in Dutch company Vollebak can help
Future Innovations 2022, concerns even out the wearer’s skin
about climate change, terrorism, temperature and offer protection in
natural disasters, and now health will extreme weather conditions
drive consumers towards a new focus Blackmer le
• Blackmerle from Seoul explores
on survival, characterised by resilience, durable fabrics and customised
utility and adaptability. components in its S/S 20 collection,
The current shortage of masks, adding typical military elements to a
medicine and other daily necessities is waterproof hard-shell jacket, and
disruptive and will result in an almost adding performance and versatility
instinct-driven demand for fabrics via patchwork and hidden details
offering a sense of security and • Supield developed reusable
protection. Resilient graphene fibres nanofiltration masks during the
and Uchino x Senscommon’s self- outbreak. The N95 mask has an
purifying charcoal fibre clothing are ePTFE nanofilm, featuring low
leading innovations here. Apart from breathing resistance and high-filter
protective functions, also explore the capacity. Its protection level won't
extended application of restorative drop after being exposed to steam,
features. isopropyl alcohol or other
disinfectants, making it a
sustainable solution Mar ie S lo t h Ro using
Function & Protection:
Design Priorities
• Antibacterial and antiviral: microporous layers can
effectively absorb water molecules and spread them
out, enhancing ventilation and evaporation performance
to ensure comfort. The application of charcoal and
graphene will become mainstream
• Utility details: multiple hidden pockets meet the
demand for storing different items, and enhance
convenience. Elastic straps seamed to the inside of
apparel allow for quick pull on and off
• Protective elements: add a toggle cord, hood string, all- Meanswhile AusAir
in-one gloves, goggles and hood to offer head-to-toe
protection and maximise weatherproof performance.
Play with proportions to create a more stylish look

Further Inspiration
• High-performance fabrics Vollebak,
AusAir, Stone Island
• Antibacterial fabrics Polygiene, Long Run
Textile, Shandong Ruyi
• Tech and utility designs: And Wander, Poutnik,
Boramy Viguier, Meanswhile

vo llebak Akenz T r ickco o


Healing Power
Analysis Inspiration
In a world threatened by violence, • Nike has collaborated with
economic turbulence and geopolitical psychotherapist Liz Beecroft to
conflicts, fear generated from inside create the new Air Max 270 shoe,
and imposed by the outside is which features pure white and lime
becoming the new normal. Statistics hues to represent mental health
show a large number of people facing awareness. The distorted Nike
mental health risks in Western Europe, Swoosh expresses the idea that
@emly smms N ike
the United States, Brazil, Japan and “healing isn’t linear” and aims to
South Korea. inspire wearers to adopt a more
The pandemic is reminding consumers positive attitude
of the significance of mental health. • Endel is a personalised sound app
According to Mintel, 90% of Chinese with a smart algorithm that takes 
consumers consider mood environmental conditions, time
management important for and user's age into consideration,
maintaining their health. Lockdown and plays either white noise or
and the anxiety it induced has acted music. The choice of melody is
as a wake-up call for people to based on data such as location, time
prioritise their mental health. Against zone, weather and heart rate
this backdrop, designs that help • American brand Acabada designs
people to cope with post-traumatic
CBD-infused activewear that can
stress will stand out, and pure,
help with mitigating muscle
calming, positive and restorative
soreness after exercise
colours will prevail.
E nd el
Healing Power:
Design Priorities
• Restorative tones: greens such as spirulina have a
minimalist appeal and a calming and consoling
quality. In particular, clinical greens will gain
importance
• Energising brights: uplifting tones such as yellow
and zesty orange signal confidence and vitality
• Playful prints: create youthful looks
by adding original prints and illustrations that use
humour to combat anxiety and stress. Collaborate with Laco st e x Jean-Michel
N U PARCC T ixier
artists to create fun prints, as shown by Lacoste x
Jean-Michel Tixier

Further Inspiration
• Restorative tones: Minjukim, Klee Klee, adidas
x Stella McCartney
• Energising brights: Ming Ma, i-am-chen
• Prints & graphics: Chictopia, Lacoste

Minjukim i-am-chen Chict o pia


Transseasonal Appeal
Analysis Inspiration
Increased demand for daily necessities • Wardrobe.NYC offers products in
driven by the pandemic has also led to capsule wardrobes, rooted in the idea
decreased interest in paying for of being more efficient and less
dispensable items. Cautious future wasteful. It aims to address the
consumers will be more inclined to a relentless design, production and
'buy less, but better' mindset, as called consumption cycle endemic to the
out in our Big Ideas 2021 report. industry, offering a radical alternative L'E st r ange Lo nd o n @neher ao f f icial
to the existing fashion system
With this in mind, how can brands
respond and send out a message of • London menswear brand L'Estrange
sustainability? The answer lies in creates a modern clothing system
creating transseasonal designs that that comprises comfortable, season-
offer originality, quality, added value, less, versatile pieces that can be worn
and durability. in multiple scenarios, allowing
wearers to "do more with less"
• Gender-neutral denim brand Ullac is
committed to extending the longevity
of apparel. If you have worn one of
the brand's garments for 300 days in
total and kept proof on social media,
Ullac offers to swap it for a new one

War d r o be.N YC
Transseasonal Appeal:
Design Priorities
• Less but better: build capsules and maximise styling
opportunities while prioritising quality and comfort
• Minimalist colours: recent catwalks have showcased
the emergence of head-to-toe and #toneontone styling.
@neher ao f f icial
Consider contrasting dull fibres with shiny ones, or
combine fibres of different textures to create interest
• Detachable components: use detachable modules
such as an inner layer, a storm flap, hood and long
sleeves to upgrade core items. This approach can also
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be used to update shoes and headgear

Rr ace

Further Inspiration
• Less but better: Arch The, Low Classic, COS
• Minimalist colours: Nehera, Giada
• Detachable components: Ffixxed Studios

@newbo t t ega 3 .1 Phillip Lim E T aut z


Nostalgic
Reconstruction
Analysis Inspiration
In a time of uncertainty, people will • Patagonia launched a collection
increasingly seek happiness and a made from irreparable clothes
sense of security through the • Nintendo Pokémon Go's success
familiarity of the past. YouGov’s British
encourages other businesses to
survey showed that 75% of
explore nostalgia-inspired licenses
respondents said feelings of nostalgia
for the adult market AS ICS T iger Gel-T ar t her
comfort them when they are upset or Alicia Ro wbo t ham 180

unhappy. • RepliTronics released a new line of


products with the mantra of "classic
Brands should offer an antidote to electronics made smart". Designed
anxiety by adopting retro elements to to "bring some retro flair to the
create a sense of familiarity and lead mundane landscape of charging
consumers to a place filled with good devices", the USB Charge Machine is
memories as an interim escape from a vintage arcade change machine
reality. replica, while the Power Bank pays
Due to trading disruptions caused by homage to the Sony Walkman
the pandemic, many brands are • Marni’s A/W 20 menswear
facing  overstock problems. Old items collection features recycled
seem to have missed their chance, but garments
reconstruction and upcycling can give
them a new life. Deadstock can • Industrial design studio and
encourage creativity and allow small innovation consultancy Alexander
brands to buy expensive or exclusive Taylor plans to launch a brand with
fabrics more affordably and refashion products made from one Chinese E r ic N Mack
them into new designs. manufacturer’s leftover fabrics
Nostalgic Reconstruction:
Design Priorities
• Repurpose: explore the #repurposed trend on WGSN's
Fashion Feed, and redesign deadstock, trims and waste
to build limited-edition capsules
• Upcycled handcrafts: combine recycled or deadstock
beads with old fabrics and yarns. Develop detachable
decorative accessories to create unique looks
• Revived retro: explore vintage elements and take
inspiration from heritage items. Be aware of the
rising re-release culture but do not simply duplicate old
@ahluwalia_ st ud io Ro set t a Get t y
designs. Explore statement silhouettes, hybrid prints
and fabrics to update retro items

Further Inspiration
• Repurpose: Nike x Sacai, Ancuta
Sarca, Ahluwalia Studios, Rave Review
• Upcycled handcrafts: Alicia Rowbotham, Chloe
Renshaw-Smith, Heide Kastler
• Revived retro: Tod's, Nike, arrior Shanghai,
Levi's, Ralph Lauren, Burberry, Uooyaa, Baixiju

ad id as @ahluwalia_ st ud io T o d 's
Esports &
Digitalisation
Analysis Inspiration
Consumers have been turning to • Levi’s collaborated with China’s
virtual worlds as an antidote to fear popular dance game QQ X5. Actor
and isolation during the lockdown Vanness Wu and QQ X5 character
period. A single-day trading volume on Xingtong dance together in the
Chinese mobile game and multiplayer commercial to showcase the virtual
online battle arena Honour of Kings looks
reached RMB 2bn on Chinese New Lind er Did u
• Li-Ning partnered with Edward
Year’s Eve (24 Jan), with an YoY Gaming (EDG) to launch a collection
increase of 50%. inspired by EDG League of Legends
As consumers become more willing to players
invest time and money in virtual • Didu’s A/W 20/21 collection teams
worlds, game-inspired designs will up with @manonwertenbroek to
stand out. #Racerrevival elements in create liquid-effect prints
particular will appeal to young
consumers. Use artificial hues on • EA Sports x adidas produce
liquid layers and try digital colours. limited-edition jerseys featuring FIFA
teams. The virtual collection has an
Virtual apparel, such as that used in identical offline version so players
gaming, is another avenue to explore can also go to certain physical
as focus shifts to e-commerce. It takes
shops to purchase the jerseys
away the risk of overstock, and has the
potential to go from online to offline, • Linder blends vintage tones with
helping brands lay the foundations for rich saturated artificial colours to
future expansion. China has the create a digital aesthetic
largest esports community in the
world, so there is a huge opportunity
here.
Esports & Digitalisation:
Design Priorities
• Virtual apparel and accessories: Honour of Kings
partnered with The Palace Museum in Beijing to launch
a Kunqu opera-themed skin, and used 3D holographic
projection to showcase the look at the exhibition
• Racer style: pair colour-blocked saturated tones with
lightweight utility jumpsuits, or match miniskirts with
second-skin tops to create a gamified look
• Digital prints: explore #digitalfilter and #ombre  H o no ur o f Kings x T he
Palace Museum Iceber g
prints. Combine sheers and PVC to create give designs
a glassy shine and a futuristic look

Further Inspiration
• Virtual designs: The Fabricant, Louis Vuitton x
League of Legends, Yang Li
• Racer/gamer style Iceberg, P.E Nation, Off-
White, Paolina Russo
• Digital prints: Keenkee, Études, Mugler, M
Super Avenir

Yang Li É t ud es Keenkee
Dark Aesthetics
Analysis • G-Dragon's PEACEMINUSONE x
Communities have experienced shock, Nike Air Force 1 "Para-
fear, depression and anxiety during the Noise" sneaker features a layer of
pandemic, and some brands are trying black paint that wears away to
to help people release their emotions reveal an illustration by Korean pop
through designs that embrace ugly star G-Dragon. The design explores
realities and unsettling visuals, the noises around us as we grow up
offering a sense of catharsis. and the subtle influences we Peaceminuso ne x N ike Lo uis Vuit t o n
experience from interactions in the
As highlighted in WGSN's Future world
Drivers 2022 and Future Innovations
2022 reports, fear has become a key • Marine Serre references profound
emotion driving design and cultural expression, religious tales
consumption. Covid-19 has and sci-fi stories of the 1960s to
undoubtedly accelerated this trend. explore survivalist themes set
against a post-apocalyptic
Inspiration backdrop. In the early days of the
• Creative director of Louis Vuitton Covid-19 outbreak, Marine Serre
Nicolas Ghesquière took inspiration partnered with Airinum to launch
from imaginary pulp fiction for his Pre- Urban Air Mask 2.0, a reusable mask
Fall 20 collection, with horror being an with 98% filtering efficiency against
important part of the story particles down to 0.3μm in size

Mar ine S er r e
Dark Aesthetics:
Design Priorities
• Gore aesthetics: take inspiration from neo-gothic
style and #darkromance, using black and other dark
tones to create decadent and mysterious looks.
Reference popular films, TV shows and games to add
appeal
• Alternative arts: young consumers seeking an
emotional outlet are looking to unconventional prints
and patterns that express their feelings. Explore
#expressiveprints or partner with avant-garde artists
O AMC @ar o ar chive
• Polluted and distressed looks: express concerns
about environmental issues and worries for the future
via splashing, dyeing and tearing on streetwear pieces
such as acid-wash jeans, tie-dye jersey and hardware

Further Inspiration
• Gore aesthetics: Bottega Veneta, Alexander
McQueen, quirky designs, WGSN's Subculture
Playlist trend, #toughlove
• Alternative arts: Mowalola, Off-White, WGSN's
Dystopian Festival trend
• Polluted and distressed looks: Ottolinger,
Xander Zhou, oxidised camouflage, bruised
whites

Pr ad a Lad Musician Rio t Divisio n

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