Anouk Swimsuit Tutorial

TABLE OF CONTENTS
DESIGN NOTES 2

MATERIALS AND NOTIONS 3

CUTTING YOUR FABRIC 4

CUTTING THE BINDING 4

SEWING AN ENCASED CROTCH SEAM 5

LEG-LINE BINDING AND SIDE SEAMS 7

ASSEMBLING THE CUPS 11

APPLYING UNDERBUST BAND ELASTIC 14

BINDING THE NECKLINE AND SCOOPED BACK 16

SEWING STABILIZED STRAPS 19

GLOSSARY 25

©Ohhh Lulu, 2017. Ohhh Lulu Patterns are for personal use only and are not to be used for commercial production on any
scale. Garments made from this pattern cannot be sold as your own design. No Part of this pattern is to be re-sold or
reproduced in any format.

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DESIGN NOTES
This tutorial will walk you through an alternate way to sew the v-neck variation of Anouk
Bodysuit, but the exact same methods are used if you are sewing the ballet wrap
variation. This method will make the bodysuit suitable to wear as a swimsuit, and will
include instructions on how to line the entire garment, add contrast binding, and elastic
stabilized straps. The techniques I will illustrate here can easily be used on many other
lingerie sewing patterns, to convert them into swimwear.

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MATERIALS AND NOTIONS
You will need to purchase swimsuit fabric and swim suit lining, following the yardages given on the
Anouk pattern. Buy the same yardage of lining as your exterior fabric. Also purchase ¼ yard of
contrast fabric for binding.

You will also need swimsuit elastic – look for a chlorine resistant elastic that is approximately ¼”-
3/8” wide. The elastic is not visible from the exterior, so any colour is suitable though I tend to select
one close in tone to my binding fabric. So, if I’m using a light coloured binding, I use white elastic.
I use black elastic with darker coloured binding.

All top stitching is done using a twin needle. You will also need 2 spools of thread that coordinate
with your binding fabric.

Materials List:

o Swimsuit Fabric (using fabric yardage in Anouk Pattern)

o Swimsuit Lining (using the same fabric yardage in Anouk Pattern as your exterior fabric)
o ¼ yard (0.2m) Contrast Swimsuit Fabric for Lining
o 2 Spools of Coordinating Thread for Top Stitching
o Twin Needle
o 6 yards (5.5m) Swimsuit Elastic

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CUTTING YOUR FABRIC
1. Cut out the size that closest correspond to your measurements. When using any sewing
pattern, but especially bras and body-suits, it is important to sew a test garment in a
similar weight and stretch of fabric. Close-fitting garments often require some small
alterations so that you can get a customized fit. ½” seam allowance is included unless
otherwise indicated.
2. Pin your pattern pieces onto your fabric and cut out each piece according to the cut
guides on the pattern piece.
3. You will need to cut out all of the pieces in Swimsuit Fabric AND Swimsuit Lining.

CUTTING THE BINDING

1. Cut 4 x 1 ½” (3.8cm) strips out of contrast swimsuit fabric. The stretch should be going
lengthways.

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SEWING AN ENCASED CROTCH SEAM
2. Layer the Front Lining against the Front Self so that the wrong sides are facing each other.
You may wish to baste these two pieces together around the edges.

3. Pin the Bodysuit Back to the Front along the straight crotch seam and baste together.

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4. Flipping the garment over so that the Bodysuit Front (lining side) is facing you, pin and
stitch the Back Lining along the straight crotch seam. The Bodysuit Front should be
sandwiched between the Bodysuit Back Self & Lining. Use a serger to sew this seam
together, or a zig-zag stitch.

5. Fold the Back Lining towards the Back Self, encasing the seam allowance between the
lining and exterior layer.

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6. Baste the Back Lining to the Back Self around the remaining edges.

LEG-LINE BINDING AND SIDE SEAMS

For more details on how to sew elastic stabilized swimwear bindings, please visit my YouTube
Channel (https://youtu.be/nzNvma4pwhk).

1. Beginning at one of the open side seams, use a zig-zag stitch to attach the binding to the
right side of the garment around each leg-line. Gently pull on the binding, like you would
do if applying fold over elastic. I’m using a 3/8” seam allowance – the same width as the
elastic I am applying in the next step.
Design Note: I’m using the wrong side of my contrast fabric so that the matte side of the
spandex is facing up, instead of the shiny side.

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2. To add stability to the leg-line, use a zig-zag stitch to baste swimwear elastic onto the
binding-side seam allowance. One edge of the elastic should be running alongside the
stitching line, while the other edge of the elastic should run along the raw edge.

3. Pin the garment together down the side seams and use a serger or zig-zag stitch to stitch
in place. Be sure to line up your binding seam lines as close as possible so that it looks
continuous after the side seams are sewn.

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4. Wrap the binding around the elasticized edge and use a twin needle to stitch in place.

5. Working on the inside of the garment, trim back the excess binding as close to the
stitching line as you can get.

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ASSEMBLING THE CUPS
The assembly of the Front cups is exactly the same as in the pattern instructions. Please also visit
my YouTube Channel (https://youtu.be/Mul9TaqOn3w?t=37s) for more in depth instructions.

1. Sandwich the Centre Front Cups in the following order:

a. Front Self pieces’ right sides together
b. Front Lining wrong-side against Front Self wrong-side
c. Front Lining right-side against Front Lining right-side
d. Stitch all layers together down the Center Front seam. When you open up these
layers, the seam allowance will become encased between the Self & Lining fabrics.

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2. Pin the Side Cup Self to the Front Cup Self & Lining down the curved cup seam so that
the right sides are facing. Flip the garment over and pin the Side Front Lining down the
same curved side seam, so that the right sides of the lining are facing each other. Stitch
in place. When you fold the lining back, the seam allowance will be encased between
the layers.

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3. Layer the Upper Back Self & Lining so that the wrong sides are facing. You may wish to
baste these pieces together. Pin the Upper Back down the Side Front Cup side-seam and
stitch in place.

4. This is a great time to try the top and bottom portions on separately and see how they fit.
If needed, you can take in the seams for a snug fit. Remember that if you take in the
side seams towards the top of the garment on the lower half, you will need to reduce by
the same amount on the upper half.
5. Pin the upper portion of the bodysuit to the lower portion, lining up the notches and side
seams. Stitch in place.

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APPLYING UNDERBUST BAND ELASTIC

1. Beginning at a side seam, use a zig-zag stitch to apply band elastic plush-side up, to the
seam allowance only. The straight edge of the elastic should run alongside your stitching
line. Gently pull on the elastic as you sew it on to create a snug fit.

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2. To join the elastic, simply cut the elastic so that it is overlapping by about ½”. Sink your
needle into into the elastic and turn the garment so that you can zig-zag stitch over the
join.

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BINDING THE NECKLINE AND SCOOPED BACK
1. In the same manner as the leg-line, apply binding strips along the neckline of the garment
(right-side) using a zig-zag stitch. Gently pull on the binding strip as you stitch it on. When
you get to the Centre Front point, sink your needle into the garment, lift the foot, and pivot
the garment to continue around the neckline. This will help you create a sharper point to
your neckline. Repeat this process around the scooped back neckline. I do NOT add
elastic into my front neckline, but the scooped back does require stabilizing elastic.

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2. At this point, the binding should be stitched around the front neckline and scooped back,
onto the right-side of the garment. Remember to add stabilizing elastic to the scooped
back. Omitting the stabilizing elastic can result in gaping. Just as in our leg-line steps, the
elastic should be zig-zag stitched onto the binding seam allowance so that one edge runs
alongside the stitching line and the opposite side runs alongside the raw edge.

3. In the exact same manner as the leg line, wrap the binding round the raw edges and use
a twin needle to stitch in place.

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SEWING STABILIZED STRAPS
1. Pin a 60” length of binding onto the right side of the underarm edge of the garment. A 2”
tail should extend beyond the back, and the remainder of the binding should extend
beyond the Front Cup, creating the strap extension. Use a zig-zag stitch to stitch in place.

2. Use a zig-zag stitch to apply elastic to the binding-side edge of the garment and strap
extension. Just like when we stabilized the leg-line, one edge of the elastic should run
alongside the stitching line, and the other edge along the raw edge of fabric. The elastic
should be stitched to the wrong side of the binding.

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3. Wrap the binding around the elastic so that it is fully covered by the binding.

4. Use a twin needle to top stitch the binding in place. Stitch all the way down the strap
extension and the 2” tail at the back.

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4. Working on the wrong-side, trim back the excess binding as close to the stitching line as
possible.

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5. Fold the 2” back extension under and use a tight zig-zag stitch to anchor in place. This
creates a loop that our strap will get fed through.

6. Criss-cross the straps and feed each strap through a loop. Tie together into a bow. The
ends of the straps can be finished with a tight zig-zag, or just knotted.

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There are many different ways you can tie your straps! Bring them straight back, or criss-cross
them in the front.

Share your makes on Instagram! Tag @OhhhLulu and use the hashtags
#SewingWithOhhhLulu and #AnoukBodysuit

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GLOSSARY
Backtack – anchor the beginning and end of a seam line by stitching both back and forth, before
continuing on with your seam.

Baste – secure two pieces in place using a long stitch length. These stitches can later be removed.

Band Elastic – elastic that is sewn around the lower edge (band) of the bra. Usually is plush on one side,
and may have a decorative edge. Band Elastic comes in varying widths. Ohhh Lulu Patterns are
developed for use with ½” Band Elastic.

Bias – Cutting fabric on the bias allows woven, non-stretch fabrics to provide a small amount of stretch. The
bias is 45° to the warp and weft (vertical and horizontal running) threads.

CB – Center Back

CF – Center Front

FOE – Fold over Elastic

Fold over elastic – elastic which binds raw edges, much like a traditional bias-binding, but provides
resiliency and stretch.

Grade Seam Allowance – Trimming back your seam allowance in a graduated manner, to reduce bulk.

Picot Elastic – elastic with one looped, or decorative edge. Often used around necklines or panty legs.

Right Side – refers to the front side of the fabric (in the case of a print, right side refers to the printed side of
fabric. In the case of a weave, like satin, right side refers to the shiny side of the fabric)

SA – Seam Allowance

Sliders – plastic or metal findings for assembling adjustable lingerie straps.

Strap Elastic – comes in a variety of sizes ¼” – 1”, is usually plush on one side, and offers a small amount of
stretch. Strap elastic can be substituted with sewn strips of fabric to match your garment.

Wrong side – refers to the back side of the fabric.

Resources
How to Videos https://www.youtube.com/c/Ohhhlulu

Pattern Hacks and Tutorials http://www.ohhhlululingerie.com/pattern-hacks-tutorials/

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