instructables

Contemporary Decorative Table Light

by ngadhno

This is a modern looking decorative table light made from wood (cedar) 5cm diameter acrylic rod and a steel base.

IF YOU LIKE THIS PROJECT, DON'T FORGET TO VOTE IT IN THE "LIGHTING" CONTEST, PLEASE &
THANK YOU.

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Step 1: Materials and Tools Needed

For this project I've used some materials that I've • LED light - I took it from a flood led bulb and
already had and some I had to buy. modified it in order to make it fit in the light.
The cost for this project depends on where you get •wires, polyurethane wood glue, screws, metal flats,
these materials from, like if you can buy used stuff or led light, heatsink, "L" shape steel bar....
salvage parts, then that could be a good moneysaver.
TOOLS required:
MATERIALS: Table saw, bevel saw, drill, forstner bit, router,
•ACRYLIC ROD 1'1/2 - 2' ( around 5cm) diameter clamps, screwdriver, soldering gun, hot glue, black
and long depending on your design. spray paint, .... ALL..EVERYTHING ?
•WOOD LOG square of approximately 5''x5'' and long
depending on the design of the project OR of the
length acrylic cylinder/rod you're going to use.
• THICK (5-7mm) PLEXIGLASS - you can take this
from an old LCD PC monitor, otherwise they are
expensive to buy.

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 1 1

1. Heat sink, taken from another LED recessed light.

1. Heat sink, taken from another LED recessed light.

Step 2: Drilling the Core of the Log

First step, one of the biggest challenge, is to drill the
core of the wood by finding the middle of the square
(you can rip cut it after if your's is not square) see 1.
image.
You'll need to use a forstner bit the same diameter as
the acrylic rod .
I used a table saw guide to slide the drill. The
challenge is that you need to drill straight, so in this
case you adjust the forstner bit with the extender(
already in the drill) in the center of the wood log and
then you measure the space between the guide and
the drill and the base and the drill and then you cut
some shims with the same measurements. This way
your drill can slide straight.
Secure tight the wood piece along the guide with
clamps.
start drilling with low tòrque and not very high speed.
This way you avoid twisting (and possibly breaking it)
your arm and ruin your forstner bit because of the
heat created by high friction. Cool down the bit in
water, after every inch of drilling. Drill the length that
you need according to the length of the acrylic rod or
the design of the lamp.
After that you can rip cut if needed to make the wood
piece square. Use table saw.

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Step 3: Side Openings

You can make any design and be as much creative as you can.

I decided to go with three openings in the upper part, and two openings in the lower part.

I chose 30 degree angle.

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Step 4: Three Layer Wood-plexiglass Sandwich
From the wood log piece cut three slices of twice the
thickness of the plexiglass.
Then using table saw cut three same size squares
from the plexiglass.
Join all wood and plexiglass slices making a
sandwich, secure them tight with a clamp and using
same diameter as the rod, drill through all of them in
the center with a hole saw.
After that, you need to scrape with a cutting knife all
the circle edge of the plexiglass. This will make the
edge smoother. After that you, with a small torch you
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need to glaze the circle edges by not holding the
flame too long in the same spot. You need to do this
so the light can be better dissipated.
Regarding the outer edges of the plexiglass, you
need to sand them with a sandpaper. starting with
100 grit then 120 and finish with 150. don't go with
higher grit because you don't want the edges to look
clear.
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Step 5: Join Wood and Plexiglass Together
Before joining the wood and plexiglass together,
make sure to sand and finish the wood surface. I've
used 80 and 100 grit sand paper to sand the wood
with orbital power sander. Then you can use any
wood oil to finish.
Cut a piece of wood same thickness as the side
openings with a 30 degree angle. I attached sticky
sandpaper to sand the end of the openings.
I've decided to use the polyurethane wood glue to join
pieces together. It's a new product in the market and
it's very strong and useful since you can use it to glue
wood with almost any other material. It's slightly
expandable, and you don't want to apply too much
since it's going to come out of the edges. You still are
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going to get some of it out, but clean it just before it
dries completely with thinner.
In my case, I had to apply one small layer of glue and
wait for the wood to absorb it (the wood was cedar
which means it's very absorbent) and then apply
another layer so the glue can stick with the
plexiglass.
Before joining all the pieces together, make sure to
put inside the acrylic rod inside the wood and then
glue the pieces together. In my case I had to leave
the last piece (bottom slice of wood) to glue it later
because I had to insert the LED diffuser between the
wood and plexiglass.
Use large clamps to keep the pieces tight for 2-4
hour. Then remove them and leave the glue to dry for
24 hours.
1. Piece of wood same thickness as the side openings with a 30 degree
angle. I attached sticky sandpaper to sand the end of the oppenings.
 1

1. LED light diffuser

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1. Make a place for the diffuser, so it doesn't touch the plexiglass layer

Step 6: Preparing/modifying the LED Light

I took the led light from an LED light bulb. First I
removed the diffuser and then cut the wires, and
remove the two screws. The electronic led driver will
be released. I opened the driver and removed the
white silicone in order to expose the wires and to
make it smaller. I decided to cut the heat sink in half
since it was too thick and it would have taken lot of
space in the base of the light. I used non-ferrous
blade to cut it in half after I secured it in a piece of
wood with a screw. I also needed to cut the heat sink
on the sides because it was too large.
Attach new and longer wires to the led, and then
fasten the LED to the heat sink by using two screws.

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1. Cut the wires to release the LED

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1. led driver 1. led driver exposed

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 1

1. Heat sink secured in a 2x4 lumber, with a screw in the middle. this is to 1. Using beveled saw with non-ferrous blade to cut the heat sink in half
help cut the heat sink in the saw.

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1
1. attach new longer wires by soldering them to the terminals. make sure
to remember positive and negative.
Step 7: Building the Base
I wanted to make a heavy and sturdy base, but I
didn't want to be from wood, so I chose L shape steel
bar to do that.
Cut the four pieces in 45 degree with a grinder by
using cutting disc. Secure tight the steel bar and use
another piece of flat bar as a guide to help you make
straight cuts.
Join the pieces by welding them. weld all the outer
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1
1. find a spot and fasten the led light with two screws.
corners, grind them and polish them with a sandpaper
disc.
Then put the light on top of the base , center it, and
score/mark the edges of the light on the steel base.
Use a step bit or a drill bit to drill two small holes on
each side of the steel bar. Next: paint the steel with
black flat spray paint.
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Step 8: Attach the Base and Install the LED

Attach the base on the wood light by using very small screws in order to avoid the wood to crack. Don't use very
long screws that will reach the plexiglass.
After that, you need to install the LED. Center the led light with the diffuser, drill a hole on the heat sink and attach
the heat sink to the wood.
Use an new plug and wire with a switch on it. Solder the wires and install caps to insulate the wires.

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Step 9: Finished

It really looks great.

IF YOU LIKE THIS PROJECT, DON'T FORGET TO VOTE IT IN THE "LIGHTING" CONTEST, PLEASE.
THANK YOU.

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