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Ten Top Tips for Growing Onions from Seed

9 March 2012, written by Barbara Pleasant 

In the past year, both Ben Vanheems and I have written about the virtues
of growing onions from seed. We left out many small details, which I've
been keeping track of in recent weeks as I've been growing onions from
seed myself. Please bear in mind that I am an onion maniac, and I have
no explanation for my obsession with growing onions and shallots from
seed to table year after year. I am driven to do it, which explains the
evolution of these ten guidelines for growing onions from seed.

1. Start with fresh seed and seed starting mix

1. Start with fresh seed and seed starting mix

Onion seeds can be kept for two years in a cool, dry place such as a
properly monitored seed storage box, but fresh first-year onion seeds
germinate best. Germination rates fall as the seeds age, and though I have
had three-year-old onion seeds that sprouted well, germination is always
highest with fresh seeds. I also purchase a fresh bag of seed-starting mix
each spring as a safety precaution against soil-borne diseases. My onion
seedlings stay in pots for up to 10 weeks, so I like to use a soil medium
that's unlikely to host diseases.

2. Provide bottom heat

The tops of my florescent plant lights are flat, and they give off just the
right amount of bottom heat needed to help onion seeds germinate
quickly. Onion germination is fastest as 68-77°F (20-25°C), with slight
temperature drops at night. Before I started using the top of my plant
light, I found that the top of the refrigerator was a sufficiently warm
place to germinate onions. I enclose newly seeded containers in a plastic
bag to maintain moisture, provide them with bottom heat, and the onion
seeds germinate in about 8 days.

Trimming onion seedlings

Trimming onion seedlings

3. Clip off seed husks

Soon after germination occurs, my indoor-grown onion seedlings often

do a poor job of pulling away from the seed. The stuck seedling looks
like a little green loop. Eventually the smaller end pulls out of the soil,
weighted down by the black remains of the seed husk. To shorten this
drama and encourage the seedling to get on with growing into an upright
onion, I often "rescue the chick" by snipping the loop in half, pulling out
the smaller end, and discarding it.

4. Keep under lights and trim back

At this point growing onions from seed requires bright supplemental
light, which I provide with a two-bulb florescent fixture. I keep the lights
on my onions for 12 hours a day, and position them within 1 inch (2.5
cm) of the bulbs. Every day or so I trim the onions back to about 3 inches
(7-8 cm) tall, which keeps them from falling over. Use scissors to get a
clean cut.

5. Transplant when the third leaf appears

When an onion seedling has three leaves, I gently transplant to containers

that are at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep. In my experience, onion seedlings
that are given plenty of vertical root space grow much more rapidly than
those confined to shallower quarters. They may not be pretty, but
containers made from the bottoms of milk cartons or large paper cups
house the majority of my adolescent onion seedlings.

Onion seedlings to transplant

6. Trim off seeding leaves

Soon after transplanting, my onions often shed the seedling leaf

(sometimes called the flag leaf). I snip it off and remove it to keep the
containers tidy. Onion seedlings respond to transplanting by making
strong upright growth, which I keep trimmed back to about 5 inches (12
cm) high.

7. Provide maximum light

The best light of all is found outdoors on sunny days, so my adolescent

onions get moved outdoors whenever we get warm sun. I shield them
from wind by using my cold frame or a plastic-covered tunnel for my
onion day care center. They love it!

8. Harden off, but protect from chilling

Eventually the onion seedlings stay outdoors 24/7, provided temperatures
are well above 46°F (8° C) at night. Consistent exposure to temperatures
below 50°F (10°C) for more than 10 days can cause onions to bolt rather
than producing big bulbs.

9. Band composted fertilizer in the planting trench

Onion roots are concentrated in the area just below the bulbs. As I
prepare the planting bed, I make deep planting trenches and line them
with rich compost and/or composted organic fertilizer. This technique,
called banding fertilizer, places a cache of organic riches where the
onions can utilize it early on, during the plants' most active period of
growth. Providing bioactive compost is important when growing onions,
because onions take up much of the phosphorous they need through
partnerships with soil-borne mycorrhizal fungi.

Curing onions after harvest

Curing onions after harvest

10. Sow leafy greens between rows to suppress weeds

Once my onion seedlings are in the ground, the war with weeds gets into
full swing. Skinny onions are notoriously poor competitors with weeds,
so they require a certain level of tending. Each year I find myself
interplanting more arugula, lettuce and other leafy greens among my
little onions grown from seed. Employed as smother crops, salad greens
are much more fun to pull compared to weeds, and onions grown from
seed seem to like their company.

By Barbara Pleasant germinate best. Germination rates fall as the seeds

age, and though I have had three-year-old onion seeds that sprouted well,
germination is always highest with fresh seeds. I also purchase a fresh
bag of seed-starting mix each spring as a safety precaution against soil-
borne diseases. My onion seedlings stay in pots for up to 10 weeks, so I
like to use a soil medium that's unlikely to host diseases.

2. Provide bottom heat

The tops of my florescent plant lights are flat, and they give off just the
right amount of bottom heat needed to help onion seeds germinate
quickly. Onion germination is fastest as 68-77°F (20-25°C), with slight
temperature drops at night. Before I started using the top of my plant
light, I found that the top of the refrigerator was a sufficiently warm
place to germinate onions. I enclose newly seeded containers in a plastic
bag to maintain moisture, provide them with bottom heat, and the onion
seeds germinate in about 8 days.

Trimming onion seedlings

3. Clip off seed husks

Soon after germination occurs, my indoor-grown onion seedlings often

do a poor job of pulling away from the seed. The stuck seedling looks
like a little green loop. Eventually the smaller end pulls out of the soil,
weighted down by the black remains of the seed husk. To shorten this
drama and encourage the seedling to get on with growing into an upright
onion, I often "rescue the chick" by snipping the loop in half, pulling out
the smaller end, and discarding it.

4. Keep under lights and trim back

At this point growing onions from seed requires bright supplemental

light, which I provide with a two-bulb florescent fixture. I keep the lights
on my onions for 12 hours a day, and position them within 1 inch (2.5
cm) of the bulbs. Every day or so I trim the onions back to about 3 inches
(7-8 cm) tall, which keeps them from falling over. Use scissors to get a
clean cut.

5. Transplant when the third leaf appears

When an onion seedling has three leaves, I gently transplant to containers

that are at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep. In my experience, onion seedlings
that are given plenty of vertical root space grow much more rapidly than
those confined to shallower quarters. They may not be pretty, but
containers made from the bottoms of milk cartons or large paper cups
house the majority of my adolescent onion seedlings.
 6. Trim off seeding leaves

Soon after transplanting, my onions often shed the seedling leaf

(sometimes called the flag leaf). I snip it off and remove it to keep the
containers tidy. Onion seedlings respond to transplanting by making
strong upright growth, which I keep trimmed back to about 5 inches (12
cm) high.

7. Provide maximum light

The best light of all is found outdoors on sunny days, so my adolescent

onions get moved outdoors whenever we get warm sun. I shield them
from wind by using my cold frame or a plastic-covered tunnel for my
onion day care center. They love it!

8. Harden off, but protect from chilling

Eventually the onion seedlings stay outdoors 24/7, provided temperatures

are well above 46°F (8° C) at night. Consistent exposure to temperatures
below 50°F (10°C) for more than 10 days can cause onions to bolt rather
than producing big bulbs.

9. Band composted fertilizer in the planting trench

Onion roots are concentrated in the area just below the bulbs. As I
prepare the planting bed, I make deep planting trenches and line them
with rich compost and/or composted organic fertilizer. This technique,
called banding fertilizer, places a cache of organic riches where the
onions can utilize it early on, during the plants' most active period of
growth. Providing bioactive compost is important when growing onions,
because onions take up much of the phosphorous they need through
partnerships with soil-borne mycorrhizal fungi.
Curing onions after harvest
10. Sow leafy greens between rows to suppress weeds

Once my onion seedlings are in the ground, the war with weeds gets into
full swing. Skinny onions are notoriously poor competitors with weeds,
so they require a certain level of tending. Each year I find myself
interplanting more arugula, lettuce and other leafy greens among my
little onions grown from seed. Employed as smother crops, salad greens
are much more fun to pull compared to weeds, and onions grown from
seed seem to like their company.

By Barbara Pleasant

How to Grow Onions From Seed

Growing onions from seed opens up a wide diversity of shapes, flavors,
sizes, and colors to grow. Here are some tips on selecting varieties for
your growing area and how to start onions from seed indoors under
lights.
Onions are a staple in the kitchen and essential for adding flavor to
numerous dishes all year long. One of my garden goals each year is to
plant enough onions to satisfy our meals, canned sauces and salsas, and
winter storage.

Onions can be planted from transplants, sets, or started from seed. Onion
transplants are sold in bunches and can be purchased online or at your
local garden center. Onions sets are immature bulbs grown the previous
year and are easily found at your local garden centers and nurseries in the
spring.

I remember planting onion sets as a child when my family “put the

garden in” every spring. When I started my own garden, I continued the
tradition of purchasing scoops of onion sets and pushing them into the
ground in spring. Overall, I didn’t have very good success with growing
onions from sets. Some were duds that failed to sprout and some ended
up bolting before forming large bulbs. The onions that did grow from
sets were rather small and didn’t last long in storage. I also wasn’t
content with the limited variety of onion sets available and usually
labeled as yellow, white, and red.
Growing onions from seed opens up a wide diversity of shapes,
flavors, sizes, and colors to grow.

How to Grow Onions From Seed

Onions take a while to develop from seed. Sowing inside in January or

February under growing lights then transplanting to the garden in early
spring is the only way that I can grow onions from seed and have them
mature in my zone 5 garden. If you live in more southern areas, you can
plant onion seeds in late summer to early fall, overwinter, and they will
begin growing when the weather warms.

Select Your Onion Seeds:

Onion seeds do not last long so only purchase seeds that you will use
within one or two years. If you are planning on storing onions for winter
use, select varieties that are known for their long-term storage
capabilities. Also be sure to select varieties for your growing area.
Onions are divided into short-day, day neutral, and long-day:

 Short-day onions are ideal for the plant hardiness Zone 7 and

warmer where the mild weather allows them to grow through the
fall and winter months and harvested in March, April and May.
Short-day onions are triggered to bulb when sunlight increases to
10-12 hours (look yours up here). Some common short day onions
are Red Burgundy, Vidalia, and Red Creole.
 Day-neutral, or intermediate-day onions can be grown in almost
all climates. Day-neutral onions are prompted to bulb when sunlight
increases to 12-14 hours. Common day-neutral onions
are Candy and Cabernet.
 Long-day onions are what we grow in the North in plant
hardiness Zone 6 and cooler. They are sown early under lights and
transplanted to the garden in spring so they have plenty of time to
grow before forming bulbs. Long-day onions are triggered to bulb
when sunlight increases to 14-16 hours (look yours up here). Some
common long-day onions are Paterson, White Sweet Spanish,
and Ailsa Craig.

How to Sow Onion Seeds:

Start onion seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before your last frost date (look up
yours here at PlantMaps.com). I use recycled berry containers to grow
onion seedlings. The containers are about 4 inches deep and have plenty
of holes for drainage.

1. Fill your containers with pre-moistened seed starting mix, sprinkle the
seeds evenly on top of the soil, mist with water, cover with 1/8-inch of
seed starting mix, and press down gently to be sure the seeds are in
contact with the moist soil.

2. Label the containers, place in a seed flat or water proof container,

cover with a humidity dome, and place on a heat mat or in a warm area
around 70-75°F (21-24°C).

3. Once the seeds sprout, remove the humidity dome, and place under
lights in a cool location (See How to Build a Grow Light System).
4. Keep soil evenly moist. Water with diluted fish emulsion or compost
tea every two weeks. Trim the tops with scissors to keep the onion
seedlings around 3-inches high. This will help the containers from
becoming top heavy and furnish more nutrients to the roots instead of the
foliage. The trimmings can be added to soups, salads, or used as a pizza
topping.

Harden Off the Onion Seedlings:

Onions are cold hardy and can endure cool spring temperatures. Begin
hardening off onion transplants about 4-weeks before your last expected
frost date (look up yours here). Watch your weather for freezing
temperatures. Onions can withstand cool temperatures but the young
seedlings are vulnerable to frosts and freezes. How to Harden Off
Transplants.

Hardening off is the process of adapting plants to the outside so they can
adjust to sunlight, cool nights, and less frequent watering. Begin
hardening off in a sheltered location for a few hours on the first day,
increase a little each day, until the seedlings are outside overnight.
Transplanting Onion Seedlings to the Garden:

Select a growing location that receives full sun or six or more hours of
direct sunlight per day. Onions grow best in loose, fertile soil that drains
well. Amend with finished compost to add nutrients and organic material
to aid with drainage. Before planting, work in an all-purpose organic
fertilizer, such as Espoma Plant Tone into the soil.

1. To transplant, remove the seedlings carefully from the container by

squeezing the plastic gently, hold your hand over the seedlings, turn the
container upside down, and shake gently.

2. Most times the root ball breaks apart when removed from the
container. If the onions are more densely seeded, the roots will hold the
soil together more firmly. Gently tease the onion seedlings apart for
planting one at a time so the roots don’t dry out.
3. Transplant the separated seedlings 3 to 4 inches apart depending on
the variety (check the seed package for recommended spacing). I use a
fork or small tool to transplant onion seedlings. I pull the soil forward,
place the onion seedling in the hole, and gently push back the soil. No
patting or tamping in.

4. Once seedlings are transplanted, water the bed gently. Onions have a
shallow root system and need to be watered frequently to keep the soil
evenly moist. Keep the bed weeded so the onions don’t have to compete
for nutrients or resources.

Onions can be harvested young as green onions or left to mature fully.

Onions are finished growing when the tops flop over. Stop watering at
this point and wait for a dry day to harvest. Harvest, lay out to cure, and
store for winter. Visit this link for more information on How to Harvest,
Cure, and Store Onions.

https://growagoodlife.com/how-to-grow-onions-from-seed/

How to grow onions from seed

Find out how to grow delicious onions from both seed and
sets.
By BBC Gardeners' World Magazine

Wednesday, 24 April, 2019 at 3:00 pm

Onions are easy and cheap to grow, both from seed and from
heat-treated sets. Follow our step-by-step guide, below, to
growing onions from seed (skip to Step 3 for instructions on
planting out sets).
Onion sets are miniature or immature onions, which can
be planted out in March or April for a quick-growing crop.
Sets are available from garden centres or by mail order, and
although the range of varieties is not quite as wide as from
seed, it’s is an easy, reliable method of growing.
Whether you grow from seeds or sets, you can start to harvest
bulbs in early summer and have plenty to store through
winter.
As with the majority of vegetables, onions grow best in a well-
lit position, with soil that has been enriched with generous
amounts of plenty of organic matter.

You Will Need

Onion seeds
Multi-purpose,
peat-free compost
Seed tray or small pots
Trowel
Soft string or twine
Watering can with rose attachment
Hoe

Step 1
Sow seed in a pot or tray of seed compost. The seeds are
small, but try and space them about 1cm apart. Lightly cover
with a thin layer of compost then stand pot or tray in water to
moisten.
Sowing onion seed

Step 2
When the seedlings are a few inches tall, prick them out and
transplant into fresh compost. Once established, transplant
seedlings into the garden, 10-15cm apart.

Planting out onion seedlings

Step 3
Alternatively, in spring, plant heat-treated onion sets, into soil
that has had large stones and weeds removed, and been
enriched with organic matter. Plant each set 10-15cm apart,
with the tip protruding. Water newly planted sets and cover
immediately with horticultural fleece, to prevent birds from
lifting them. Once firmly rooted, the developing crops can be
uncovered.
Planting onion sets

Step 4
Using a watering can with a rose, thoroughly water seedlings
and sets directly after planting to settle soil around roots or
bulbs. Repeat at regular intervals if the weather is dry.
Watering onions

Step 5
Hoe regularly to remove weeds, which will compete for water
and nutrients with developing bulbs. A hand-held ‘onion hoe’ or
‘circle hoe’ are both perfect for weeding in small spaces.
Using a hoe to remove weeds

Step 6
In late summer, draw away earth from the bulbs to expose
them to the sun. Harvest after the leaves turn yellow and the
stem bends over. Allow leaves to dry before carefully lifting
bulbs.
Drying onions for storing
Once dried, a convenient way to store onions is to string
them up in onions ropes and hang them in a cool, dry, frost-
free place. Select only unblemished bulbs with narrow, well-
closed necks. Wide-necked onions do not store well so
usethem first. https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-
plants/how-to-grow-onions-from-seed/