Bikesport Micro-Camper

Copyright 2016 by LaMar Alexander

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The Bikesport Micro-Camper is designed to fit on the Aosome Elite II bike trailer or similar trailer.

The camper is 2’ wide, 2’5” high and 3’ 7” long when closed. It is 3’ 2” from the ground to the top of
the camper approximately and the bed slide-out gives a sleeping space 1’11” x 6’ when extended.

The design can be modified many ways to make the camper so it can be pushed as a cart or towed by a
bicycle or scooter. It is not designed for highway use.

Step 1: Get your trailer

Aosom Elite II Bike Cargo / Luggage Trailer - Red / Black

Available at Amazon for $109.95: http://amzn.to/1XuojEE

Product Description
The Aosom Elite II Cargo trailer attaches to almost any bicycle and has plenty of space for groceries
and running routine errands. A removable cover included to protect your things. A sturdy steel frame
make this cart exceptionally durable and can hold up to 180 lbs!

Features:
- Specially strengthened solid metal bottom
- Quick release wheels
- Easily assembles and folds down for storage
- One Aosom Type 'A' bicycle hitch/connector included
- Including a removable and washable cover
- Folding Frame

Specifications:
- Max loading weight: 176.4lb
- Size: 35"L x 33"W x 25"H
- Length with draw bar is 59"
- Total Trailer Weight: 39 lbs

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Step 2: Prepare the trailer

Remove the cargo bag and any bag hardware and remove the trailer bike hitch to give you room to
work. Touch up any rust with good exterior paint and tighten all bolts. Good tires and rims are needed.

Step 2: Attach floor panel to wall frame

Floor panel is ½” plywood. I recommend you paint the panel with a couple coats of exterior oil paint to
prevent water damage before you attach the floor panel to the trailer.

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Step 3: Construct the door side framing

Wall framing is 1x2 lumber. Attach the wall framing together using wood screws and construction
adhesive on all joints. Attach the framing to the floor panel with construction adhesive and screws
through the floor panel into the framing from underneath.

Step 4: Attach the front nose braces

Front braces are 2x2 lumber. Attach the front braces to the
framing and to the floor panel with wood screws and
construction adhesive. Screws go through floor panel from
the underneath.

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Step 5: Attach the roof braces

Roof framing is 2x2 lumber. Attach roof framing to side wall framing using construction adhesive and
wood screws. Pre-drill holes to prevent splitting.

Step 6: Attach the Floor and framing to the trailer

Carefully place the floor and framing on the trailer. Front corners align with the trailer. Rear end
extends 11 inches over trailer. Attach the floor and wall framing to the trailer with lag screws from
under the trailer. Use existing holes where possible but some drilling may be necessary. The framing
and floor must be secured tightly to the trailer. Pre-drill holes to prevent splitting the framing.
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Step 7: Attach the door wall panel

Door wall panel is ½” plywood. Carefully cut out the door opening and save the removed piece for your
door. Attach the panel to the framing with construction adhesive and small head paneling nails.
Countersink all nail heads. The wall panel overlaps the floor panel at bottom. The vent hole can be any
size and is optional but recommended. Find a vent first. Door panel will overlap center brace ¾ inches.

Step 8: Attach the other side wall panel

Attach wall panel to frame with construction adhesive and small head paneling nails. Countersink all
nail heads. Wall panel will overlap floor panel. Vent hole optional but recommended.
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Step 9: Attach front panel

Attach panel to framing using construction adhesive and small head paneling nails countersunk. Nose
panel will overlap side wall panel.

Step 10: Attach rear panel

Attach rear panel to framing using

construction adhesive and small head
paneling nails countersunk.

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Step 11: Attach roof panel

Attach roof panel to framing using construction adhesive and small head paneling nails countersunk.

Roof panel will overlap side wall and rear wall panels.

Step 12: Attach front nose panel

Attach panel to framing using construction adhesive and small head nails countersunk.

There will be a gap between panels that will be filled later with wood Bondo.

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Step 13: Attach the door

Fit the door back into the opening and check for swing. You may need to cut 1/8 inch off the door on
the lock side to allow the door to swing open. Attach the door to the framing and wall panel. Use a
camper door latch lock for the door and a window is recommended.

It should now look like this.

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Step 14: Construct the bed box

Floor panel is ½” plywood. Wall framing is 1x2 lumber. Cross supports are 2x2 lumber. Attach framing
together using construction adhesive and wood screws. Pre-drill holes to prevent splitting. Attach frame
to floor panel with construction adhesive and small head paneling nails countersunk.

Step 15: Attach bed box side panels

Side panels are ½ ” plywood. Attach panels

to framing with construction adhesive and
small head paneling nails countersunk.

Make sure box is square at all corners.

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Step 16: Attach bed box end panel

Attach end panel to framing using construction

adhesive and small head paneling nails countersunk.

Step 17: Construct shelving (optional)

Shelf is ½” plywood or other suitable material. Braces are 1x2 lumber. Attach all pieces together using
construction adhesive and small head paneling nails countersunk. Attach shelf unit to rear end of bed
box using construction adhesive and paneling nails countersunk.

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Step 18: Attach the bed box top panel and stop block

The bed box top panel is ½” plywood. Attach the panel to the frame using construction adhesive and
small head paneling nails countersunk.

The stop block is attached after the bed box is inserted into the camper. The block is attached with
construction adhesive and screws from inside the bed box. Pre-drill holes to prevent splitting. The stop
block will stop the bed box from being extended out too far.

Step 19: Add a stabilizer

The stabilizers are removable and are

there to keep the trailer from tipping
when parked. You can make these out
of 1 inch dowels, PVC pipe or conduit.

Bore a 1 inch hole about a half inch

deep in each corner for the dowel to fit
in. Measure to the ground for your
trailer as the length will depend on tire
size and trailer used.

The stabilizers are removed and stored

when the camper is being moved.

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Step 20: Add a roof rack (optional)

Roof racks are 2x2 lumber. Attach the racks to the roof with construction adhesive and 3 inch wood
screws. Screws go through the racks and top panel and into the side wall framing. Pre-drill holes to
prevent splitting.

Step 21: Attach a push/pull bar

The push/pull bar is 2x2 lumber and attached to the rear bed box with construction adhesive and 3 inch
wood screws. Pre-drill holes to prevent splitting. This handle can be used when pushing the camper or
to pull the bed box out from the camper to make a bed.

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Step 22: Bondo the gaps, sand and paint the camper

Use good wood bondo and follow the manufacturer’s directions. Fill in the gaps on the nose panel and
sand smooth. Fill in any other gaps and use nail putty on all nail heads and sand smooth.

You can paint or stain the camper to fit your desires. Recommend a primer coat and at least two coats
of exterior oil paint.

Step 23: Install your safety gear and trailer hitch

All states require bikes and attachments to have rear red reflectors, side markers and each state has their
own laws for bikes so attach your reflectors and follow the laws for your state. Make sure you can be
seen and take your safety seriously. Always wear a helmet when biking!

Step 24: Attach a class A trailer hitch (optional)

You can get a class A trailer hitch for motorcycles and scooters however this camper is not designed for
highway use so do so at your own risk. Follow the manufacturer’s installation directions.

Class II trailer hitch 2x2 Motorcycle Ball Hitch Example

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Well, that is it and I hope you enjoy these plans and build your own Bikesport micro-camper.

This is one of many small shelter designs and plans and I have many more on my website:

www.simplesolarhomesteading.com

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