Se realizó un cambio de masa, los baleros que se encontraban engrasados se habían

desviado chocando entre sí. En el tornillo principal es necesario líquido pega tuercas.
Aplicando unos ligeros golpes.
La afinación tarda 15 dias antes de la verificación para que se asienten los inyectores, los
residuos químicos del coche salgan y se carburicen las piezas.
Existen tres formas de presurizar una bomba de gasolina en mal estado:
Presurizado de emergencia (Obtienes 40 psi pero estas bajan rápidamente a 10psi).
Con una boya (Obtienes 40psi por un buen rato, la misma boya evita que baje la presión).
Con laboratorio, se abren y cierran los inyectores electrónicamente.
El rendimiento de un coche tiene muchos factores:
Carretera vs Urbanizado
Gasificación de la Gasolina
Niveles de llantas
Automático vs Manual
Las pruebas de rendimiento de gasolina normalmente se realizan en carretera lineal a
temperatura constante con un óptimo nivel en las llantas.
Al poner el rin necesitamos hacer coincidir el acceso de aire con la parte ondulada.
Utilizar pinzas, no las manos al jalar los tubos de las switchs eléctrico y no tallar la punta
porque podemos botar la parte que hace contacto eléctrico
El filtro de aire solo lavar con agua y jabón y sopetear para no lastimarlo.
El transponder de los seguros esta digitalmente relacionado con el modelo del coche en una
codificación especial.
Si vibran los frenos o se derrapan debemos lijar las placas de los frenos y las balatas
cristalizadas.
Checamos una fuga en el radiador, el cual se compone del radiador con condensador para la
calefacción, el radiador del anticongelante y el ventilador.
Cambiamos un carburador de dos entradas, normalmente en la parte superior del motor con
el filtro de aire. La entrada la cambamos por una de plástico la cual no se debe engrasar
sino poner un poco de gasolina.
Hicimos el cambio de un chicote de aceleración porque el acelerador se atoraba. Aprendí
que para enrollar un alambre se utiliza doble y el girar unas pinzas.
Cambio de anticongelante:
Enfriar el coche.
Vaciar el tubo del anticongelante.
Echar aire, prender aire caliente.
Poner agua y dejar 3 dias a que corra con agua.
Vaciar el agua.
Echar aire, prender el aire caliente.
Poner Grasa en la manguera al conectarla.
Poner el nuevo anticongelante, checar las porciones en caso de que sea concentrado.
Vi el cambio de una bomba buster, la cual envía la presión por medio de un resorte o una
bolsa al líquido de frenos. Está conectada a la bomba de frenos la cual se alimenta del
depósito del líquido. Si el buster se rompe los frenos no ponen resistencia hasta llegar al
fondo.
En un motor podemos checar la válvula Jack desconectándola. En este caso podemos
prender el coche, si la válvula esta defectuosa el coche seguirá prendido, si esta esta
correcta se apagara automáticamente.
Podemos checar la presión del tubo de inyección de la bomba de inyección. Si cuenta con
dos tubos la gasolina circula por el sistema, con un manómetro, barómetro o T podemos
checar dicha presiono, en un sistema de alta presión se registran aproximadamente 50
libras.
Si el problema se encuentra en la bobina el coche tarda en prender, en este caso el coche se
apagaba.
Chispas en la corriente del coche se pueden ver que salten en total oscuridad con alguien
más que inspeccione.
Al final resultó ser el aire que estaba jalando el motor a partir de un motor de aire
acondicionado trabado. La manguera posterior era la manguera de salida del aire, la de
entrada era la segunda frente a esta.
Cuando se limpie a presión cubrir el modulo y la bobina, echando diésel para quitar la
mugre y luego terminar limpiando con agua y jabón.
-------------------------
Los autos más usados en México:
1. Nissan Versa, Tsuru, March, Sentra, Pickup, Tiidda Urva,
2. Chevrolet Spark, Aveo, Sonic, Trax, Cruz,
3. Volkswagen Vento, Jetta, Gol,Golf, Polo,
4. Mazda3
5. Toyota Yaris
6. Ford Figo,Fiesta
7. Honda CR-V, HR-V
8. Seat Ibiza
Como limpiar un coche:
Líquido Para Lavar Coches: Debe ser líquido no polvo ya que los cristales de cualquier
polvo detergente si no se disuelven correctamente en el agua provocaran rasguños en la
puntura. No usar jabón para lavar trastes ni líquidos que ya incluyan cera. Se recomienda
que el bote para lavar un coche sea únicamente utilizado para eso.
Esponja o Guante de Lavado: El guante de lavado está hecho con microfibras lo
suficientemente delgadas para que no puedan rallar el coche. Puede ser (carrand) de lana o
microfibra, softy. Utilizar solo detergente y secar a temperatura templada para no derretir
las microfibras.
Nunca lavar cuando está el sol: El agua se evaporara rápidamente dejando las conocidas
marcas de suciedad debido a que se concentraron en micro capsulas de mugre. Además de
que la cera y el líquido para lavar coches no están diseñados para altas temperaturas.
Usar un lubricante para quitar manchas solidas que puedan dañar la pintura. Empear a labar
de arriba hacia abajo con sets de microfibras distintas para las llantas. Seguir una única
dirección al utilizar el trapo para que en el caso de que hubiera algún rasguño este siguiera
una única dirección y uno un patrón al azar que es más facil de identificar. Nunca tires la
toalla porque una toalla de microfibras que toca el suelo recoje partículas que rallaran el
coche. Utilizar toallas de Algodón para secar el coche.
Cera para Pulir el Coche: Existen de Carnauba y Sintéticos, en general ambos son buenas
opciones, recuerda comprar algodón aplicador y limpia con una pasada de una toalla de
microfibras. Una buena encerada cada 4 meses es una buena opción.
Pintar un Rayón:
Un dia antes perpara papel arena de 600.
Lava el coche como normalmente lo harias.
Limpia el área con P21S o Wirth Citrus Desengrasante.
Lentamente quita la pintura del rayon con el papel arena mojando primero el área con un
poco de agua. El objetivo es eliminar 1mm de pintura.
Pon un poco de alcohol o prepsol y limpia el polvo que quedo de la pintura.
Deja que el alcohol se evapore.
Pon una capa de Primer (Pintura base), pon un tercio de primer y dos tercios de thiner
acrílico en una pistola de aire para aplicar en la lamina dos capas.
Luego con

7. Make sure that the chip and surrounding area is clean. If not, reclean with the Prepsol,
Alcohol or Enamel Reducer. Pour or spray a small amount of primer into a clean plastic
cup. Dip the point of a wooden toothpick into the primer to get a thin coating on the first 1-
2 mm of the toothpick. If there is a blob on the end, gently scrape it back into the cup. Place
the tip of the toothpick against the center of the chip and allow capillary action to literally
flow a *THIN* coat of the primer into the depression of the chip. Move onto the next
prepared chip. If you have finished priming all your prepared chips before two hours are
up, cover with a box, taped down with masking tape and go have a beer. The key is to allow
the first coat of primer to dry at least two hours. Dispose of your cup and start with a fresh
cup and toothpick. Apply another thin coat of primer to each repair that needs primer.
Priming is completed when no metal is visible and the levelof the primer is *BELOW* the
level of the surrounding paint. This is important! Cover and allow to dry for two hours or
until dry.
8. Apply a small amount of Alcohol or Prepsol or Enamel Reducer to a rag and wipe the
chip and surrounding area to remove any sanding dust and grease/oils. Allow to dry. Repeat
for all the chips that are on today's list of victims.
9. If you are using a touchup, shake the bottle thoroughly. If you are using color-matched
paint, mix thoroughly and pour a small amount into a clean plastic cup.
10. Dip the point of a new toothpick into the paint to get a thin coating on the first 1-2 mm
of the toothpick. If there is a blob on the end, gently scrape it back into the bottle. Place the
tip of the toothpick against the center of the chip and allow capillary action to literally flow
the paint into the depression of the chip. Repeat for each chip. The key is not to use too
much paint. Do not redip the toothpick. Use only the amount that will flow from one dip.
Temptation to add more paint with each application will be almost overwhelming. Fight it!
11. Cover with your paint box and allow to dry 2 hours and repeat 8-12 times till the
depression is filled with paint and bulges slightly upward and covers the roughed up area
with a thin coating of paint. The first 2-3 coats may not completely hide the primer. This is
fine because you have many more coats to go. Fight that urge!
12. The paint application is completed when the new paint bulges slightly upward (a
fraction of a millimeter) and had covered the roughed up area with a thin coat of new paint.
Allow the paint to dry for at least a week.
13. The touchup paint has been applied to the surface and allowed to dry for at least 1
week, and resembles a minute mound ( __o__ ) (this is exaggerated) on the flat plane of the
existing paint. The object is to remove the mound and make the surface of the paint one
continuous flat plane. The Finesse Block offers the ability to gently remove only the high
spot of the repair. Unlike sandpaper or polish on a rag, the five usable sides of the block are
flat and act like a "wood plane" to remove only the elevated areas of the repair. The 2000
grit will not leave scratches.
14. Soak the Finesse Block in clean water for 24 hours prior to use. Put a small drop of car
wash on the chip repair. This acts as a lubricant for the sanding block. Then gently "plane"
the high spot on the paint. I prefer to "plane" in one direction (usually back to front -
drawing the block towards me). If the block dries out, re-wet and continue use. When the
new and existing paints are blended (smoothed to the flat plane) to your satisfaction, clean
the area using a quality car wash and lots of water and then use a quality glaze to restore the
high gloss finish. I prefer 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. Don't use a machine on your car, as it
deserves to be caressed by hand. Use a machine on your Yugo or SO.
15. When applying either a glaze or a wax, apply to your soft cotton cloth or applicator pad
(don't squirt the stuff on the car) and work in one direction only. Don't go around in circles
like dear old dad. Circles are many times the cause of "swirl marks." A front-to-back, back-
to-front motion (the way the air flows over the car) will help minimize swirl marks or at
least make them less visible. Buff out with a soft cotton cloth. If it looks good, wax with a
quality hard wax and you are done.
16. Tip for applying wax. If you are using a quality Carnauba based wax, try applying it
with your fingers instead of a pad or cloth. Hold your fingers together and use your
fingertips as an applicator pad. The tactile feedback from your fingers will tell you when
the wax has been worked into the paint. If grit should lodge under your fingers, you will
know immediately and not grind it into the paint. A pad will not allow this tactile feedback
and these devil grits become sandpaper. A circular motion of the pad will make a 360-
degree swirl mark. All marks on paint are most visible at a 90 degree viewing angle. Thus
the front to back marks are most visible from the sides, whereas a circle stands out from
any viewing angle.
The question was also asked if clear touchup should be used as a final coat to repair chips
on clear coat paint. There are two viewpoints to this question. The purist will say yes, the
paint has a clear coat and thus, the repair should also. The process is the same as previously
described, except the clear coat is substituted for the last 2-3 coats or paint. The practical
world says no. The touchup paint is different from the original paint and is formulated only
as a touchup paint. Once it is applied it should, according to the manufacturer, match well
enough to be all but invisible. I have found this to be the case with the numerous repairs on
the many cars/colors, I have completed. If you are using the original paint as a touchup (I
have not done this with a clear coated car), then my understanding is that you should use
the clear as a topcoat. The color coat of some paints will many times be relatively dull in
appearance. These paints rely on the clear coat to provide the "shine." Try one chip in an
area that is not that visible. If the process works, then continue with the rest. If not try the
clear coat top layer.
If you have any questions or if you need any further information, please feel free to contact
us.
©1999 - 2003 Car Care Specialties, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Cleaning Your Engine
What is the best way to clean my engine compartment?
A clean engine compartment will pay off in a number of ways... Easier to spot leaks, longer
lasting hoses and belts, higher resale value, and hey it just looks cool!
Step 1: Warm the engine up and allow to cool slightly. It should be warm to the touch, but
should not be too hot that when spraying water on the exhaust would cause steam. The
engine block can hold a lot of heat, so driving for a few miles, and shutting down the
engine for 15 - 20 minutes would still be sufficient for cleaning.
Step 2: Using plastic baggies and tape or wire ties, protect all sensitive wiring and the air
intake. Ignition coil or coils, sensors, fuse blocks and distributor are all prime candidate for
water to penetrate and cause issues. Disconnect the battery and remove or cover well with
plastic.
Step #3: Spray down the engine compartment with your favorite cleaner. I prefer a non-
petroleum based cleaner like Simple Green. Let it soak in for 15 minutes or so and do it's
magic. Respray on extra oily/greasy areas.
Step #4: Rinse and repeat if needed. Stay away from the areas you taped up with the plastic
bags.
Step #5: Remove all plastic bags, tape and reinstall battery. Wipe any excess water from the
engine compartment and if available, used compressed air to blow off all the water you can
reach.
Step #6: Start engine and allow to get warm to dry out all the nooks and crannies.
Pretty simple huh? Now you can wax and panels which are painted, apply your favorite
rubber protectant to hoses and trim pieces. Don't wax or treat belts as they may slip. Also
spray a light coating of lubricating oil on throttle cables, hood hinges and hood latch
mechanisms. It's also a good time to apply a battery terminal protective spray on the
terminals. Most parts stores carry the CRC brand which seems to work well for me.

Chevrolet Spark is an excellent low-cost motoring vehicle designed for city drives. The city
car is strikingly designed with an agile look that guarantees you of a memorable ride. From
the expressive look and the compact design to the stylish interior and interior design that
presents a cool well-todrive mood while on board. In addition to this, the 5 seat car has a
super-stylish cabin that offers you a full Bluetooth functionality and a centered console
features as such as a radio and storage cabins.

Repair Rust - Learn How To Do Body Work

Rust and dents are inevitable, learn how to keep your car's body looking it's best. Get tips
on preventing rust, and fixing dent and accident damage.
Your car's body is made up of steel, plastic, aluminum and sometimes fiberglass.  These
materials all have their plus and minuses, and all need to be cared for.  Steel is cheap and
strong, but can rust when unprotected.  Plastic is flexible, durable, and can be molded into
complex shapes unlike steel.  Aluminum is light and strong, but comes at a price.  
No matter what your vehicle is made of, there is a top layer of paint to protect the body
from the elements.  Automotive paints have a tough job protecting your car's body panels
from the sun, dirt, rain and snow.  While you can fix minor paint chips at home in the
driveway, major panel resprays with today's modern paints are best left to professionals
with the proper equipment and environmental controls.
When shopping for a new car, make sure you check on the rust protection plan, and
consider getting a rust proof coating applied when the car is new.  I would avoid rust
proofing when buying a used car, as the sheet metal may have already started to rust, and
covering over it, will not help. 
Common Problems:
Rust: The most common problem with an automobiles body is rust.  Rust can work from
the inside of your cars body and show up once it's too late.  Fortunately most newer cars
have very good rust proofing applied when built.  Older cars can last a long time also if you
follow some simple tips given below. For more information on rust repair Click Here...
Accidents:  It's bound to happen sometime, a fender bender or a major accident can really
ruin your day.  Make sure you have a reputable shop do the repair work and insist on
original equipment parts.  Cheap import parts can put you and your family at risk.
Paint:  The suns UV rays are your paints worst enemy.  Park in the shade whenever
possible and always keep a good coat of wax on your car.  The wax should have UV
protection just like the sunscreen you use at the beach.
Preventive Maintenance:

Wash the underside of your car during and after the winter season. This will wash off the
salt used to melt the ice on the roads.  Folks in the southern and most west coast areas don't
have this to worry about.
Make sure all drain holes around the trunk and hood are clear.  These holes allow water to
exit the ledges around the trunk and hood and prevent rust.  Also check your weather
stripping around all openings for rips and tears.  Water will sneak in where you least expect
it and eventually rust away your car.
Waxing your car will keep your paint protected from the elements but what about the other
side of the body?  The inside is often neglected on older cars.  Rust proofing is an option
but if the rust has already started just covering it will not stop it.  The existing rust must be
removed or chemically converted before rust coating is applied.
What to discuss with your body shop:
Like looking for a mechanic, check your body shops accreditations.  Also ask for their
guarantee, good shops will do the job until you are satisfied.  In my experience even the
better shops have to redo a few jobs here and there.  Do not hesitate to ask to have the job
done to your liking.
Inspect the repair job in different lighting situations.  Some defects only appear when in
direct sunlight or cloudy days.  Most shops will give you a time period to inspect their
work.
When you get a quote, insist on using OEM parts, not cheap imported ones.  This can put
you and your family at risk.
Make sure to ask around for recommendations, friend and family can lead you to a
reputable body shop.
Follow Directions! When you pick up your car from the autobody shop, you should get
instructions on when the best time is to wash/wax your car for the first time. Modern paints
are often cured with heat, but they can still require an out-gas period before sealing with a
wax or synthetic polish.
Also see our Car Care section to help you keep your car looking it's best.
Fender or other body part fall off?
Move to a safe place, well off the road. Many times an plastic cover from the underside of
your vehicle may fall off or partially fall off and drag on the road. If a major body part like
a fender or door falls off, please don't drive the car, call a tow truck and get it fixed
properly. Small parts can be taped, wired up with a coat hanger or removed for a short trip
home or to your favorite garage or auto body shop.
Minor accident damage?
Assuming you can drive the car, get to a parking lot or well off the road to do a full
inspection. Minor fender-benders can be deceptive, causing damage you can not see. For
front end damage, check the radiator and any electrical wires to make sure there is no
damage. All four wheels should be able to roll without hitting metal, plastic or any other
part of the car. Make sure to turn the front wheels fully in both directions to check for
interference. Don't drive your car if you are unsure of the damage, you can do more damage
to the car on the drive home.
Frenos
El pedal no es mas que un tubo con el que transmites fuerza del pie al cilindro maestro. El
pedal a su vez esta conectado a un switch que enciende las luces traceras.El cilindro
maestro es empujado por un tubo de empuje.
El cilindro maestro consiste de un piston y fluido para frenos, cuando estos son presionados
envía el liquido de frenos a los conductos del liquido de frenos que a su vez lo llevan al
caliper o cilindro de las llantas.

brakes are used. The fluid being pushed from the master cylinder through the brake lines
pushes a piston in the brake caliper. This in turn applies force to the brake pads.
The last part of your braking system is the rotors. Typically made from cast iron and made
heavy enough to dissipate heat and not warp over time. Unfortunetly, in todays cars, many
of the rotors are not large enough, and can warp within a few 1,000 miles. The rotor is
bolted between the wheel and the spindle, and rotates at the same speed as the wheels.
Common problems:
-Wear: The braking system does a lot of work and the brake pads take the brunt of the
punishment. It is a good idea to have you brake pads checked every 6 months or when you
suspect a problem. Symptoms include squeaking, grinding, or increased stopping distance.
Most pads have a thin metal tab which vibrates against the rotor when the pads wears down
to a dangerous level. Some pads do not have this and if not checked periodically can wear
down far enough to ruin the rotors. A modern trend is to make the brake pads very hard
thus extending life. This harder material can squeak and sound like the wear indicators.
Brake dust can also cause squealing but can be fixed by spraying brake cleaner on the brake
system to remove the dust.
- Warped Rotors: More common in newer cars, but possible on all disc brake systems.
Rotors warp due to being overheated or incorrect tightening of the wheel. A warped rotor
will give a pulsing feeling when applying the brakes. This pulsing can be annoying and
dangerous. Most newer cars have rotors which are very thin and warp very easy. Furthering
the problem, the manufacturer does not leave enough material to resurface the rotor. Check
with you mechanic to make sure you can safely have the rotors machined or replace with
new rotors. To resurface, the rotor is placed in a lathe and a cutting tool removes a few
thousandth's of material from the braking surface. This restores the flatness of the rotor and
eliminates the pulsing sensation in the pedal. Make sure when your mechanic puts
everything back together that he torques the lug nuts to proper specifications and never uses
an impact wrench. If the lug nuts are not tightened evenly the rotor can warp and you are
back to square one. Note: Some shops use a torque stick, which attaches to an impact
wrench and does not allow the torque wrench to tighten more than it should. This is
acceptable. If your mechanic does not use a torque wrench or torque sticks, find another
mechanic.
Preventive Maintenance:
Avoid "riding" your brakes. It's better to slow down with moderate pressure and then
releasing the brake to cool, than riding the brakes and overheating them
On steep grades consider downshifting to save your brakes. Only do this when traction
conditions are good. In ice, snow, or even rain, downshifting into too low of a gear may
cause a skid. Downshifting lets you engine do some of the braking instead of your brakes.
Frenar con motor!!!
Keep your wheels and braking system clean. Clean brakes work better and keep
temperatures down. Use a good wheel cleaner which you know if safe for your wheel
finish.
What to discuss with your mechanic:
Be weary of low priced brake jobs advertised in the paper or TV. Some shops will try a bait
and switch or find other parts which "need" to be replaced. Salesmen will try to make you
feel guilty for putting your families safety on the line. They claim you need the premium
pads and rotors, of course at a higher price.
You mechanic should clean all the components of the brake system to ensure a dust and
squeak free job.
All bolts including lug nuts should have anti-seize compound on the threads to prevent
them from rusting fast and causing headaches down the road.
Have your mechanic use an anti-squeak compound on the back of the brake pads. This
keeps the pads from vibrating and annoying you to no end. There are spray, and paste
forms, with the paste working better for me.
Insist on seeing the pads they removed from your car. There is no use paying to replace
something that doesn't need to be replaced.
National brake shops are not all bad. Some stores only do brakes so they should be pretty
good at it. Ask around and get recommendations before you get work done. Quality
depends on the owner of the national chain store, not the parent company so shop carefully.
Do you need the lifetime brake pads? Well that depends on how long you will keep the car
and how many rotors you plan on buying in the next few years. This initial cost is a little
higher due to the fact the manufacturer knows he will most likely have to give you another
set when yours wear out. Also these pads are made from a harder material and tend to wear
down the rotors instead of themselves. You would be better off buying the basic pads and
replacing them periodically instead of costly rotors every year or two.
Make sure your mechanic uses a torque wrench or torque sticks on their impact guns. See
above for the explanation.
Safety is important to you and your family. Stay safe by educating yourself and not by
falling prey to the salesman. When you think you have a brake problem, take it to be
checked by a mechanic you trust, for your families sake.
*Image courtesy of gameanna / FreeDigitalPhotos.net
On The Road
Are your brakes making noise?
Light squealing is more than likely the brake pad indicators letting you know it's time to
change your brake pads. Most pads will have a metal tab which is designed to contract the
rotor when they are worn to a point of needing replacement. Change your brake pads as
soon as possible. A grinding noise is more serious and usually indicated that the pads are
worn to a point of metal-to-metal contact with the rotor. This is more serious as braking
ability can be decreased since less brake pad material is contacting the rotor. Get service
immediately if you hear grinding and expect to most likely have to replace your rotors as
well.
Step on the brakes and it goes to the floor?
A bad master cylinder or low brake fluid due to a leak in the system are the most common
causes. DO NOT DRIVE your car with no brakes. You will need to have the vehicle towed
to the closest garage, or home to get repairs done. Rusty brake lines, blown brake hoses or
even a bad caliper can cause your brake system to lose fluid and no longer stop your car.
Does it take a lot of effort to stop the car?
All modern cars have a vacuum booster which helps apply the brakes. If the diaphram in
the boost goes bad, or the hose becomes disconnected pedal effort can rise and it will take
more effort to stop your car. While possible to continue to drive your vehicle like this, it's
not recommended as the effort required to stop the car is not something you will be used to,
and panic stops may be compromised.
The Cooling System

From the radiator to water pump your cooling system keeps your car running down the
road.
Your car engine produces lots of heat, and keeping that heat in check is the critical job of
the cooling system. Starting at the radiator, we will dive into the cooling system and see
what you can do to keep it operating efficiently.
The cooling system is designed to remove heat from the engine to keep the engine
operating in it's optimal temperature range. The cooling system is comprised of the
following parts...
Water Pump: The water pump is either driven by the fan belt or the timing belt on some
newer vehicles. The pump moves coolant from the radiator, through the engine, and back
into the radiator. The pump has a shaft with a pulley on one end and a pump rotor on the
other end. When the pulley is spun by a belt, the rotor moves the coolant.
Radiator: The radiator is a series of thin channels where the coolant flows through and it
cooled by air flowing through it. It is important to keep your coolant in good condition to
keep the channels open in the radiator. Following your manufacturers recommendation for
changing your coolant, to keep your radiator in good shape.
Thermostat: The thermostat controls the flow of coolant through the engine. When your
engine is cold, it actually operates with less efficiency. So until the engine warms up to it's
ideal temperature, the thermostat keeps coolant from flowing. Your thermostat can fail in
either an open or closed condition. When it fails in the open position, your engine may
actually run too cold and you will have bad gas mileage. If the thermostat fails in the closed
position, your engine will overheat since no coolant will be flowing through the engine.
Hoses: The hoses carry the coolant from the radiator to the waterpump and from the engine
to the radiator. Hoses are generally made of rubber and can deteriorate with time. Hose
should be flexible and not dry rotted (check for tiny cracks in the hose)
Coolant: Coolant is generally a mix of water and ethylene glycol. Many times called Anti-
Freeze, coolant serves many purposes. As it's common name implies, coolant prevents
freezing, but it also provides lubrication for the waterpump, increases boiling point of
water, and keeps rust and scale from forming in your cooling system. Coolant must be
changed on a regular basis, check your owners manual for the recommended schedule. PH
level is critical to keeping your coolant from becoming a metal eating liquid. When you
check your coolant for freeze point, also check out the PH level and make sure your coolant
has not turned acidic.
Common Problems:
Let's look at the common problems cars have with the cooling system.
Broken hose. Hoses wear out and can leak. Once the coolant has left the system it can no
longer cool the engine and it overheats.
Broken fan belt. The water pump is driven by the engine through a belt. If the belt breaks
the water pump can not turn and coolant will not be circulated through the engine. This will
also lead to engine overheating.
Faulty radiator cap. The radiator cap is designed to hold a certain pressure in the coolant
system. Most caps hold 8 - 12 PSI. This pressure raises the point in which the coolant will
boil and maintains a stable system. If your cap does not hold pressure, then the car could
overheat on hot days since the system never becomes pressurized.
Water pump failure. Most commonly you will hear a screeching noise and will be able to
see coolant leaking from the front of the pump or under the car. Early signs are small spots
of coolant under the car after being parked overnight and a strong coolant odor while
driving.
Head gasket... have large amounts of white smoke flowing out of your exhaust? Could be a
head gasket. The head gasket seals the cylinder head to the engine block and also seals the
coolant passages. When this gasket fails coolant can enter the cylinder and it will be turned
to vapor as the engine fires. Head gaskets most often fail after the engine has experienced
an overheating situation. When super hot, the cylinder head can warp and allow the gasket
to fail.
Preventive Maintenance:
Check all belts and hoses regularly. (at oil change is a good time)
Look out for coolant leaks underneath the car, they could be signs of trouble to come.
Change your coolant every 2 - 3 years depending on the manufacturers recommendations.
You can check the freeze point of your coolant with an anti-freeze tester available at any
auto parts store.
Inspect your radiator cap for deterioration of the rubber seal. Replace if you think it is
worn. $5 - $10 is cheap insurance.
Have your coolant system flushed every 5 years. It gets all the corrosion which has built up
out of the system.
What to discuss with your mechanic:
Let your mechanic know when your overheating problems occur. Overheating when idling
points to a different problem than overheating at highway speeds.
Ask your mechanic if it's worth changing the timing belt or chain while he is replacing your
water pump. Many times the timing belt turns the water pump so it has to be removed
anyway to access the water pump.
WARNING: Never open your radiator when the engine is hot. The pressure in the system
can cause hot coolant to splash out and burn you.
Notice your coolant temperature gauge rising?
If it's a hot day or you are driving in severe conditions, it's possible your engine will run a
little hotter. Turning off the air conditioning while uncomfortable, will allow your car to
run a little cooler. If the needle moves in to the red range, it's time to pull over. Some times,
rolling down the windows and running the heater on high will allow you to continue on
your trip or at least get you to a garage. The heater is basically another smaller radiator
(heater core) which is designed to extract heat from the engine coolant. This extra help
sometimes can save you on a super hot day... although it's no picnic in the driver's seat.
Low on Coolant?
It's possible, but how do you know? DON'T OPEN A HOT RADIATOR CAP!!! Most cars
have an overflow tank where you can read the fluid level. Check that first or let the engine
cool down before opening the radiator.
When to pull over?
If you see steam coming from the engine, or your engine coolant light comes on, PULL
OVER! You risk a blown head gasket or a seized engine.
The Automotive Drivetrain

How does my transmission, driveshaft and rear axle work?

From the Transmission, through the drive shaft and ending up in your rear axle, the torque
your engine produces reaches the road through your car's drivetrain. Learn the differences
between front and rear wheel drive systems, common problems and more...
Drivetrain Arrangements
We need to get this out of the way before we can define parts, and talk about their function.
Ever confusing, the arrangement of modern drivetrains is sometimes misunderstood. Let's
look at the common arrangements and their strengths and weaknesses...
Rear Wheel Drive (RWD): The most common layout for older vehicles and most trucks.
Power runs from the engine through a transmission and driveshaft to an axle at the rear of
the vehicle.
Front Wheel Drive (FWD): The standard layout for most economy cars and even some
compact SUVs since the 1980's. Power from your engine goes through a transaxle (a
combination of transmission and axle) and travels to the front wheels through an axle shaft.
The main advantage of front wheel drive layouts is that the weight of the engine is over the
drive wheels, offering better traction. The downside is that for performance minded owners,
weight balance and torque steer is an issue. Torque steer is the natural reaction to torque
going to the ground through the front wheels, and shows up as a tug on the steering wheel
when you really step on the gas.
4-Wheel Drive (4WD): Power goes from your engine to a transmission and then gets split
to both a front and rear axle through driveshafts. On trucks and some SUV's the transfer
case has several "ranges" to accomodate different driving conditions. The most typical
arrangement is 2WD/HI/LO where you would select 2WD for times where you do not need
the traction of all 4 wheels and want better gas mileage. HI range is for times when you
need all 4 wheels pulling and you will be driving highway speeds. LO is for off-road, low
speed driving when you need maximum torque with lower wheel speeds.
All Wheel Drive (AWD): Very similar to 4WD but all 4 wheels are driven by the engine
"ALL" the time. May have a HI/LO option but no 2WD available. Most modern SUVs and
cars are AWD. Advantages are sure-footed traction in all conditions, less moving parts than
4WD systems and more compact for installation in cars.
Drivetrain Components
The Transmission: No matter the drivetrain arrangement detailed above, they all have a
transmission. The transmission is a device used to multiply torque and allow for higher
speeds. Imagine an engine which was directly connected to the rear axle, due to the power
curve of the engine, RPM limits and the fixed ratio of the rear axle, the speed range of the
car would be severely limited. It would either accelerate very well from a dead-stop but not
be able to achieve higher speeds, or it would be slow to accelerate and run well at higher
speeds. By varying the ratios in each gear, the modern transmission allows for a car which
can accelerate well from a stop and achieve higher speeds. Back in the 50's and 60's
transmissions had 3 or 4 gear at most, today new cars can have up to 8 gears and large
tractor trailers can have 21 or more gears to move heavy loads. More gears allows for better
engine efficiency by keeping the engine RPM's in an optimal range. In the case of diesel
engines in large over the road trucks, their operating RPM range is much narrower, so more
gears are needed.
Transmissions can come in 3 styles... Manual, Automatic and Constant Velocity (CV)
Manual transmissions are connected to the engine with a clutch which allows the driver to
engage and disengage the transmission from the engine when the car is stopped or between
gear changes. The manual transmission allows for gear changes through a lever, or shifter
which manually moves the gear sets into the proper position for the gear desired.
Automatic Transmissions are the most common transmissions found in cars and trucks
today. They rely on a fluid filled torque converter which allows an indirect connection
between the engine and transmission. When an automatic is shifted in to the Drive position
(P-R-N-D-2-1) and the car is at a stop, the torque converter allows some slipping, so the
engine does not stall. This also allows the shifts to be smoother than a manual transmission,
but does result in a slight loss in inefficiency.
CVT or Constant Variable Transmission is a type of transmission found in a few newer cars
(Audi, BMW, GM and Ford). While the CVT transmission has been around for years in
snowmobiles and other recreational vehicles, it's only been recently that modern materials
has allowed them to take the torque and abuse of being put in a car. The CVT transmission
does not have any gears, rather two sets of plates which move and change the ratio between
the engine and the wheels. Between these two sets of plates, there is a belt which transmits
the torque. The CVT offers no interruptions of gear changes, smooth operation and better
fuel economy. Some CVTs do offer "gears" but are really just setpoints in the range of
plates which mimics a traditional gear change in a manual or automatic transmission. While
a complicated subject, and simplified for this lesson, you can learn more about CVT
transmissions by visiting this page.
The Drive Shaft: The driveshaft takes the power from the transmission in a RWD car and
transmits it to the rear axle. Since the rear suspension moves up and down, the driveshaft
must move as well. Universal joints are used at both ends to allow the driveshaft to move
with the suspension and still rotate plus a sliding slip joint must also be employed to extend
or contract as the driveshaft moves in and out of the transmission. The driveshaft is most
commonly made from steel, but can also be made from aluminum or in exotic cases carbon
fiber.
Rear Axle: The rear axle is found on RWD, 4WD and AWD cars, trucks and SUVs. The
rear axle takes the rotation of the driveshaft, turns it 90 degrees and distributes it to the two
rear wheels. It's job is to make sure that power goes to the rear wheels in the proper
proportion. A funny thing happens when turning a corner, the inside wheel (to the turn)
turns slower than the outside wheel. The rear axle's differential allows for the inner wheel
to slow down while sending power to the outer wheel to complete the turn.
Transfer Case: In AWD and 4WD cars and trucks, the transfer case splits the engines
torque to the front and rear axles. Depending on your car or truck, the transfer case may
have several gears to allow for different driving conditions. Think of it as an extra gear that
lowers or raises the operating range of the transmission. When going slowly off-road over
rocks and up steep hills, speed is not an issue, so a lower range of gearing will multiply
torque and allow you to get to your destination. For highway driving the higher range of
your transfer case will allow for higher speeds, but less torque.
The Transaxle: Simply a combination of the transmission and axle, commonly found in
FWD cars although in cases like the Corvette it can be found in RWD cars on occasion.
More compact but usually a little more complicated as well, when replacement is needed
the costs can be higher than if the components we separate.
Front Axle Shaft: In the case of FWD cars, or most AWD cars, the transaxle or axle will
connect to the wheels with a front axle shaft. Similar to a drive shaft, but more complex
since the front wheels can also turn with the steering wheel to allow your car to make a
turn. The front axle shaft has two CV (constant velocity) joints which allow a great range of
motion than a universal joint. They do not typically handle as much torque as a universal
joint so in most heavy duty 4WD trucks, a universal joint is used with a solid live axle.
Common Problems:
Manual transmission suffer from wear mainly in the synchronizers. The synchronizers
make shifting easier and help to prevent gear clash. Over time the synchronizers, which are
made of brass, can wear out causing hard shifting and grinding.
Automatic transmissions can also wear out, causing slipping and uneven shifting patterns.
Universal joints can wear and cause vibrations while driving. Many newer universal joints
are sealed and can not be lubricated, leaving replacement as the only option.
Preventive Maintenance:
Change the fluid in your transmission at recommended intervals. Your owners manual will
give you a time schedule in miles and or months. If you tow a boat or trailer be prepared to
change the fluid even sooner. Most owners manuals will give you recommend intervals for
severe use like towing or off-road use.
Do not "ride" the clutch if you have a manual transmission. Learn to release the clutch in a
smooth motion without revving the engine too much. Revving the engine too much while
pulling out can cause premature wear on the clutch.
If you do tow a boat or trailer, consider getting a transmission cooler for your automatic
transmission. Temperatures can approach the boiling point in severe conditions. Most
newer trucks come equipped with transmission coolers if sold with a towing package.
Make sure your universal joint are lubricated at oil changes if they are the type which can
be lubricated. When replacing universal joints try to find replacements with lubrication
fittings so you can lubricate in the future.
If you have a front wheel drive car, avoid applying the gas to the floor while the wheels are
turned at full lock. This puts stress on the universals and can cause premature failure. This
can happen when stuck in the snow and trying to get out.
What to discuss with your mechanic:
If you are noticing a vibration in the car while driving, make sure to describe when it
happens. While accelerating?; braking?; Maintaining speed?; When turning?
Make sure when deciding to get a new or rebuilt transmission, that you have all the details
of warranty and prices so you can make an educated decision. Most times you will be better
off getting a rebuilt transmission, but if you plan on keeping your car for many more years,
and the new transmission is not much more expensive, it could be a good choice.
When getting an oil change or other regular service, make sure your mechanic lubricates
any universal joints, inspects the CV joint boots if equipped and checks fluid level in your
transmission. By keeping the items lubricated, you will get the longest possible life out of
them.
On The Road
Vibrations?
Tracking down vibrations can be tough, here are a few tips. Drivetrain vibrations will
usually be felt in the seat of your pants, and may get better or worse with application of the
gas pedal. While driving at higher speeds, if the vibration gets worse when turning in one
direction it could be a wheel bearing. A constant vibration which feels like it's coming from
the center of the vehicle could be a driveshaft universal joint (rear wheel drive vehicles)
Wheels which are out of balance will also cause a vibration and can sometimes be felt in
the steering wheel.
Slipping automatic transmission?
First check fluid level. Most cars will have instructions on the proper way to check fluid
level, stamped right in the transmission dip stick. If not, check your car's owners manual.
Low fluid will cause the transmission to slip or not go in gear if the fluid level is low
enough. It's important to find out why the level is low, or in other words, find the leak.
Check pan gasket (center of transmission), input shaft (front of transmission) or the output
shaft (rear of transmission) If the leak is slow enough, you can drive to a garage, but keep
in mind driving your car with low transmission fluid can cause damage due to overheating
and improper lubrication.
The Automotive Electrical System

How does my cars electrical system work?

Learn how the automotive electrical system works in your car. From the Battery, Starter,
Alternator and Cables, we will look at how to keep your electrical system operating
properly. When it comes to getting your electical system serviced, follow the tips below to
make sure your mechanic fixes it right the first time.
Common Problems:
The battery is usually the first part of the system to wear out. Most batteries last between 3
and 7 years depending on brand and design. Batteries can be fine on minute, and dead the
next. More on this later.
Blown fuse: Is one part of the electrical system not working like the interior lights or dash
lights? Your first thing to check is the fuses. Look for the fuse panel under the dash, in the
glove box, or even in the engine compartment in some cars. Most fuse boxes will be labeled
by circuit. Modern cars use a blade type fuse which is rectangular in shape and transparent.
Look for the wire which runs through the fuse and see if it is burned through. Any
discoloring of the fuse is a good sign the fuse has blown. If you have doubts, replace with a
new fuse and test the system which is not working.
Alternator: Does your car start ok, but your headlights dim when idling. It could be a bad
alternator. When the alternator can not produce enough electricity to keep the electrical
systems running and the battery will have to be used to take up the slack. This will
eventually wear down the battery and not allow your car to start.
Troubleshooting:
I don't think there is a tougher system to troubleshoot on your car than the charging/starting
system. This is due to the fact that there are many things that can go wrong and it's tough to
test some components without special equipment. Let's go over some possible situations
and their possible causes.
Car won't start, all I hear is a click but the engine does not turn.
First check all battery cables for corrosion as this will keep power from flowing freely to
the starting system. If they are dirty, clean with a wire brush and reattach. ( Click Here For
an Example of a Battery Brush )Apply a light coat of grease to the top of the terminals to
prevent further corrosion.
Battery could not have enough power stored in it to spin the engine. This can be caused by
a bad cell in the battery or from a bad alternator not charging the battery when the engine is
running. If you can get the car to a mechanic, have him or her test the battery and charging
system with a special tester. This tester places a load on the battery and can tell the
condition. They can also check to see if the alternator is working to it's full potential.
Starter or solenoid could be bad. If you can not jump start the car and all of the battery
cables are ok then suspect the starter.
Car won't start, I hear nothing.
Check battery cables as above.
Have the battery tested. There could be a bad cell causing a short. You can try jump starting
but often the car will not stay running.
Car won't start, all I hear is a horrible grinding noise.
Grinding noises point to the starter not properly meshing with the flywheel. This can be
caused by a bad solenoid or a bad spot on the flywheel.
I have also seen starters loosen up so they no longer contact the flywheel at the proper
distance. While not common, it is something to keep in mind.
Car starts but my headlights are dim at low engine speeds.
Look to the alternator for problems. Take the car to your mechanic to have the alternator
checked for proper operation.
Check for loose wires going to the alternator. Also check for corrosion as this will inhibit
the alternator from charging properly.
Check the tension on the alternator belt. If it is too loose, the belt may slip and not drive the
alternator properly.
As you can see there are plenty of things to go wrong with the charging system and it is
always best to take the car to your mechanic and have it tested before you go replacing
parts blindly.
Preventing problems with your electrical system:
Replace your battery every 4 years as a safety measure. It will save allot of headaches down
the road.
If your battery is not a sealed unit, check fluid levels in each cell. Only fill with distilled
water and be careful around the acid which is in the battery.
Check your alternator belt frequently for cracks and tension. Replace per your cars
manufacturers recommendations.
Clean your battery connections at least once a year. Parts stores sell a handy terminal
cleaner which is basically a round wire brush which works wonders. Once you reattach the
terminals, coat with a layer of heavy grease or special purpose grease sold at parts stores.
This layer will block the air from reacting with the connectors and creating corrosion.
How to jump start your car:

Jump starting your car does not have to be a hard

task. First lay out the cables on the ground between the two cars. Make sure that the cable is
not tangled and none of the end clamps are touching each other. The car with the good
battery should be running.
Step 1: Take the positive (red) clamp closest to the car with the good battery and hook it to
the positive terminal of that car. The positive terminal will have a + sign on it and usually a
red wire running to it.
Step 2: Repeat this step on the car with the bad battery, hooking up the positive clamp to
the positive terminal on the battery. Make sure the clamps are contacting well and can not
fall off.
Step 3: Take the negative cable (black) closest to the car with the good battery and hook it
to the negative terminal of the battery. The negative terminal will have a - sign and usually
a black wire running to it.
Step 4: This is the last step and the most important. Take the negative clamp closest to the
car with the bad battery and attach it to a bare metal part of the engine. DO NOT hook it to
the batteries negative terminal as there maybe hydrogen gas present from the battery and a
spark from the connection could cause an explosion.
That's it...... turn the key on the dead car and the car should start. If it does not, try revving
the engine on the good car to boost the charge coming from the alternator. If this does not
work, try wiggling the cables to assure you have a good connection. A GOOD set of jumper
cables are a necessity. I have had cheaper sets not jump start a dead car. I actually had to
double up two cheap sets to get enough current to start my car. The cheaper sets will have
thinner cables which can not carry enough amperage to start some stalled cars. I would
suggest buying a cable which has 4,6 or 8 gauge wire.
On The Road
Car Won't Start
Check the battery terminals and make sure they are tight. Try to turn on the lights for a
second then turn them off. This is sometimes enough to reestablish a good connection.
Read below for more diagnostic tips.
Not sure which connections go where when jump starting a car?
Good battery car: Red (+) cable to (+) terminal of battery & Black (-) cable to (-) terminal
of battery. Dead battery car: Red (+) cable to (+) terminal of battery & Black (-) cable to
metal ground on engine. Read below for the full procedure.
The Automotive Engine
How your car engine works...

Today's engine is a collection of advanced parts and systems that provide the driving force
to get you down the road. Modern electronics and materials may have made repairing
engines more complicated, but the basic engine layout has not really changed over the
years. Proper care and feeding of your engine will have it purring for many years. The best
way to start learning about how your engine works, is to break down the engine in to parts,
and explore each parts function.
Pistons:
Most common engines have 4, 6, or 8 pistons which move up and
down in the cylinders. On the upper side of the piston is what is
called the combustion chamber where the fuel and air mix before ignited. On the other side
is the crankcase which is full of oil. Pistons have rings which serve to keep the oil out of the
combustion chamber and the fuel and air out of the oil. Pistons are made from lightweight
aluminum alloy and are designed to float in the cylinder without contacting the cylinder
walls. They float on a thin layer of oil which is below the rings. If the rings fail, oil can leak
into the combustion chamber and you will see grey smoke coming from the exhaust. If the
rings wear or you lose oil to the engine, the pistons can score the cylinder walls damaging
the engine and requiring a rebuild.
Crankshaft:
The crankshaft is connected to the pistons via a connecting
rod. As the piston moves up and down in the cylinder it
rotates the crankshaft and converts the straight line motion
into rotary motion.
Valvetrain:
The valvetrain consists of valves, rocker arms, pushrods,
lifters, and the cam shaft. The valvetrain's only job is that of a traffic cop. It lets air and fuel
in and out of the engine at the proper time. The timing is controlled by the camshaft which
is synchronized to the crankshaft by a chain or belt.
Now that we have a general overview of the parts involved let's talk about what happens
during the normal operation of your engine. Most automotive engine today are 4-stroke (or
4-cycle) engines, meaning they have four distinct events which make up the cycle. A 4-
stroke engine takes two complete crankshaft revolutions to complete the cycle. Below are
the 4 complete parts of the 4-stroke cycle...
* Intake stroke:
The camshaft opens the intake valve and the piston moves down the cylinder. This creates
vacuum and sucks in air and fuel into the combustion chamber above the piston.
* Compression stroke:
As the piston starts moving back up the cylinder the intake valve closes and seals off the
combustion chamber. The causes the air and fuel to compress.
* Power stroke:
As the fuel is compressed and the piston nears the top of the cylinder the spark plug fires
and ignites the fuel and air. This explosion pushes the piston back down the cylinder and
drives the crankshaft.
* Exhaust stroke:
After the piston reaches the bottom of the cylinder, the exhaust valve opens and the gasses
left over from the fuel and air are sent out to the exhaust system.
To get a more indepth look into the engine, take a look at the Road Machines CD free
preview.
Put these four events together in the above order and you have a complete cycle. Are you
asleep yet? That's enough theory, let's talk about the real world and problems you might
encounter with the above mentioned parts.
Pistons:
Remember I talked about the rings which seal the combustion chamber from the crankcase.
The rings over time tend to wear out. When they wear they allow the fuel and air to enter
into the oil and dilute it. This dilution reduces the oils ability to lubricate your engine and
can cause premature wear. Also if the rings wear down they can allow oil from the
crankcase to enter the combustion chambers. This will result in oil being burned and exiting
your tailpipe as grayish/white smoke. If your car spews grayish white smoke and it does not
go stop in the first few minutes after start-up you might have warn rings. If the smoke goes
away after start-up look to the valvetrain section.
Crankshaft:
The crankshaft rides on bearings which can wear down over time. The bearings support the
crankshaft and also the rods which connect the pistons to the crankshaft. A loud medium
pitched knocking noise in the engine points to warn bearings most of the time. This is
usually a costly repair and involves removing the crankshaft and either machining the
surface where the bearings ride, or replacing the entire crankshaft. To prevent this type of
problem, use a high quality oil, change your oil at suggested intervals (3 months or 3000
miles is a safe number) and always maintain your oil level between oil changes. Many
times it is more economical to buy a replacement engine, than to have your engine rebuilt
when you have a crankshaft bearing failure. Your mechanic can give you a better idea of
costs involved.
Valvetrain:
Remember the oil smoke problem mentioned above in the piston sections. If your car only
smokes grayish/white smoke at start-up you may have leaking valve seals. Valve seals keep
oil from above the valve from leaking into the combustion chamber. When they wear, they
can allow oil to seep into the combustion chamber and collect there until your start the
engine again. You generally do not get oil leaking past the valve seals while the engine is
running since the seals expand with the heat of the engine and plug the leak.
Another common problem is the timing chain or belt will slip or even break causing the
camshaft to stop rotating. Remember the camshaft tells the valves when to open and if it
stops spinning then the valves stop opening and closing. No valve moving, no engine
running :-)
A term you will here when talking about timing chains and belts is "interference engine".
When an engine is an "interference engine" the pistons and valves are so close together that
if the valves were to stop moving (broken belt or chain) and the crankshaft kept spinning
they would crash into the piston. (that's the interference) This crash tends to do bad things
to an engine, breaking valve, bending pushrods, and even cracking pistons. This is why
most manufacturers recommend changing the timing chain or belt every 60,000 miles.
Timing belts dry out, stretch and deteriorate over time so even if you do not have 60,000
miles on the car think about changing the belt after it's 6 years old. If you are wondering if
your engine is an interference engine, you can check with Gates, who makes timing belts
and has a PDF file which will tell you if your engine is an interference engine and the
recommended service interval.
Preventive Maintenance:
* Change your oil regularly and use the recommend weight of oil. Check your owners
manual or under the hood for the correct oil to be used.
* Give your engine a chance to warm up before driving if possible. Doing this will let the
oil get into all parts of the engine before you put a load on the engine. This is even more
critical in cooler temperatures when the oil is cold and sluggish.
* Change your timing belt or chain at your manufacturer's recommended interval.
* Avoid "snake oil" additives advertised on late night TV. Regular oil changes and good
maintenance habits will keep your engine running it's best.
* If you have a turbo-charged engine, give the engine a minute or two to cool down before
turning it off. This cool down period allows oil to circulate and cool down the bearings in
the turbo. If you shut off the engine immediately after hard driving, the oil can gum up
around the hot bearings and create problems down the road.
*If you have to replace your engine, discuss the benefits of buying used versus new. If you
plan on keeping your car for some time, a new engine might be the best bet. Sometimes
new engines are not much more expensive than rebuilt ones, and offer the best solution.
*When trying to diagnose engine noises, be as descriptive as possible. Take note to when
the noise occurs, at what throttle position, and when the noise started occurring. Sometimes
changing the weight of oil being used can cause a new noise to crop up. Make sure your
mechanic knows if you changed oil brands or weight recently.
On The Road
Weird noises coming from your engine?
First, check the oil level. Higher pitched noises and ticking tend to be valvetrain issues.
Lower pitched knocking tend to be bearings. Do not attempt to drive your car if the oil light
is on, temperature gauge is in the red zone or smoke is coming from the engine
compartment or tailpipe.
Check Engine Light On?
The check engine light can be on for many reasons. If the engine seems to be running ok,
take the light as a strong suggestion to get the codes scanned and repairs done ASAP. You
can still drive the vehicle short distances and most times the check engine light is related to
emissions control equipment. (fuel cap, EGR, etc)
The Exhaust System

The automotive exhaust system.

Keeping your exhaust system in good working condition is vital for fuel mileage, the
environment and your safety. We will discuss how the exhaust system works, how it
usually fails, and the best way to repair it. Your car's exhaust system carries away the gases
created when the fuel and air are burned in the combustion chamber. These gases are
harmful to humans and our environment. Frequent checks of your exhaust system is a must
to provide for you and your family's safety. Make sure there are no holes in the exhaust
system or in the passenger compartment where exhaust fumes could enter. Let's begin by
listing the parts of the exhaust system and their functions.
Exhaust manifold:
The exhaust manifold attaches to the cylinder head and takes each cylinders exhaust and
combines it into one pipe. The manifold can be made of steel, aluminum, stainless steel, or
more commonly cast iron.
Oxygen sensor:
All modern fuel injected cars utilize an oxygen sensor to measure how much oxygen is
present in the exhaust. From this the computer can add or subtract fuel to obtain the correct
mixture for maximum fuel economy. The oxygen sensor is mounted in the exhaust
manifold or close to it in the exhaust pipe.
Catalytic converter:
This muffler like part converts harmful carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons to water vapor
and carbon dioxide. Some converters also reduce harmful nitrogen oxides. The converter is
mounted between the exhaust manifold and the muffler.
Muffler:
The muffler serves to quiet the exhaust down to acceptable levels. Remember that the
combustion process is a series of explosions that create allot of noise. Most mufflers use
baffles to bounce the exhaust around dissipating the energy and quieting the noise. Some
mufflers also use fiberglass packing which absorbs the sound energy as the gases flow
through.
Exhaust pipe:
Between all of the above mention parts is the exhaust pipe which carries the gas through it's
journey out your tail pipe. Exhaust tubing is usually made of steel but can be stainless steel
(which lasts longer due to it's corrosion resistance) or aluminized steel tubing. Aluminized
steel has better corrosion resistance than plain steel but not better than stainless steel. It is
however cheaper than stainless steel.
Common Problems:
Well the worst enemy of your exhaust system is corrosion.... or more commonly known as
rust. Rust is caused by moisture reacting with the iron in the steel and forming iron oxide.
Moisture, or water vapor is present in the exhaust as a by-product of combustion and the
catalytic converter. Moisture can also come from the outside in the form of rain. Short trips
in your car can shorten the life of your exhaust system. When you shut down your engine
whatever water vapor is in the pipes condenses and turns back into a liquid. On a short trip
the water never has a chance to get hot enough to turn back into water vapor and just stays
in the system and rusts away the pipes. If you drive for short distances consider replacing
your exhaust system with stainless steel when the plain steel one rusts through. If you drive
more than 15 miles at a time then you should not have to worry about this. If you live in an
area which uses salt on the roads in the winter time, make sure to wash the underside of you
car with water every few weeks. Salt speeds up the corrosion process and getting it off as
soon as possible will help stop the corrosion. Make sure you run the engine after washing to
drive off all of the water on the pipes.
Noticing a decrease in your gas mileage? Your oxygen sensor could be going south on you.
As time goes on the oxygen sensor begins to wear out and becomes less accurate. This
sometimes results in a rich fuel mixture where your engine burns more fuel than is needed.
Most of the time your check engine light will come on and alert you to a failing oxygen
sensor. I suggest changing the oxygen sensor every 60,000 miles just to be safe. Even
though your check engine light might not be on, you could be using more gas than is
needed. Pay a few bucks and change the sensor, your wallet will thank you when you have
to buy less gas down the road.
The next part in line to go is the muffler. Most of the time mufflers rust through and need to
be replaced. There are allot of options out there for replacement mufflers. Some cheap and
some expensive. It holds true..... you get what you pay for. If you plan on keeping your car
for any period of time, spend the extra cash and get an OEM muffler or a high quality name
brand muffler.
On rare occasions the catalytic converter will become clogged and need to be replaced.
Symptoms include loss of power, heat coming from the floor of your car, glowing red
converter or a sulfur smell. Never let a mechanic tell you that you can do without the
catalytic converter. Removing this component is illegal in most states and can lead to a
hefty fine to the government if you are not careful.
That's about it for the exhaust system, just remember that rust is the biggest enemy to your
exhaust system. Take the above mentioned steps and your exhaust system will last a long
time.
On The Road
Something Dragging?
It's common to have an exhaust pipe rust through and start dragging on the road after
hitting a hole in the road or a bump. More to a safe area and inspect the exhaust system. It's
never a good idea to drive a vehicle with a broken exhaust pipe, fumes can enter the
passenger compartment and carbon monoxide poisoning can result. Wire can be used to tie
up an exhaust system temporarily in the case of a broken exhaust hanger.
What's that buzzing sound?
Catalytic Converters and sometimes mufflers will have a heat shield attached to the top
between the exhaust system and the car floor. This is to keep heat away from the passenger
compartment. Overtime this shield may rust or become loose from the welds securing it,
and start to vibrate. A muffler shop can usually reweld it and have you on your way. Mostly
often times it's just annoying and will not present a safety issue, but better off safe than
sorry. Get it checked!
The Fuel System
Learn how to spot a bad fuel pump and more...

All internal combustion engines need three things to run... Air, Fuel and Spark. The fuel
system is critical in storing and deliverying the gasoline or diesel fuel your engine needs to
run. Think of it as your vascular system, with a heart (fuel pump), veins (fuel lines) and
kidneys (filter). A failure in any of these fuel system components has the same devastating
effects as in your body. Let's get a little more indepth with each part...
Fuel tank:
Basically a holding tank for your fuel. When you fill up at a gas station the gas travels
down the filler tube and into the tank. In the tank there is a sending unit which tells the gas
gauge how much gas is in the tank. In recent years the gas tank has become a little more
complicated, as it now often houses the fuel pump and has more emissions controls to
prevent vapors leaking into the air.
Fuel pump:
On newer cars the fuel pump is usually installed in the fuel tank. Older cars have the fuel
pump attached to the engine or on the frame rail between the tank and the engine. If the
pump is in the tank or on the frame rail then it is electric and is run by your cars battery.
Fuel pumps mounted to the engine use the motion of the engine to pump the fuel, most
often being driven by the camshaft, but sometimes the crankshaft.
Fuel filter:
Clean fuel is critical to engine life and performance. Fuel injectors and carburetors have
tiny openings which clog easily so filtering the fuel is a necessity. Filters can be before or
after the fuel pump, sometimes both. They are most often made from a paper element, but
can be stainless steel or synthetic material and are designed to be disposible in most cases.
Some performance fuel filters will have a washable mesh, which eliminated the need for
replacement.
Fuel injectors:
Most domestic cars after 1986 and earlier foreign cars came from the factory with fuel
injection. Instead of a carburetor to mix the fuel and air, a computer controls when the fuel
injectors open to let fuel into the engine. This has resulted in lower emissions and better
fuel economy. The fuel injector is basically a tiny electric valve which opens and closes
with an electric signal. In the picture below you can see the injectors towards the outer part
of the intake. By injecting the fuel close to the cylinder head the fuel stays atomized ( in
tiny particles ) so it will burn better when ignited by the spark plug.
Carburetors:
A carburetor take the fuel and mixes it with air without computer intervention. While
simple in operation, they tend to need frequent tuning and rebuilding. This is why most
newer cars have done away with carburetors in favor of fuel injection.
Common Problems:
I would say the most common problem is a clogged fuel filter. Make sure you follow your
manufacturers recommendations as to when you should change the fuel filter. This
information should be in your owners manual. Symptoms include sputtering at high speeds
or engine not starting at all. Always check the ignition system first, if that's ok then the next
suspect is the fuel filter.
Next most common problem is the fuel pump failing. Most modern electric fuel pumps can
be heard when you turn the key on. If you don't hear the pump running and your car will
not start, it could be your fuel pump. The first thing a mechanic will check is the relay
which sends power to the pump. If this is operating correctly then the pump will have to be
replaced.
Last but not least is dirty injectors. While the fuel filter does a good job of filtering the fuel,
it's not perfect. Over time deposits and tiny particles lodge themselves in the injectors. This
can clog and injector and prevent it from delivering the fuel the engine needs. It can also
cause an injector to stick open and send too much fuel into the engine. A regular addition of
fuel system cleaner like STP Injector Cleaner, or Techtron fuel system cleaner can help
keep your injectors clean. Most gas stations, department stores and all automotive parts
stores will have a good cleaner available. Add it to your empty tank right before you fill up
and it will clean as you drive. I recommend doing this every 3 months to keep your
injectors performing like new. Mechanics also offer a cleaning service where they actually
disconnect the fuel line and flush cleaner through the engine. This is only necessary when
you let your injectors get to a point where they can not be cleaned by a store-bought
product. Regular use of a good in-tank cleaner will keep you from having to pay for this
service.
Where do you buy your gas?
Believe it, or not, it can make a difference. Always buy from a well know national brand
service station. Gas stations which are not affiliated with one brand of gas tend to get
whatever is left at the end of the day from the delivery truck. One day them might get
Texaco, and Exxon another. Also water mixed with gas will cause problems with your
engine. The engine will not run right, plus the water will promote rust in the fuel system. I
have experienced this when I purchased gas at some no-name gas stations. Your car will
feel sluggish and sometimes refuse to run if there is enough water in the gas.
Octane rating tip !!!!
Putting super in the tank will not get you any more performance or gas mileage unless
specifically recommended by your cars manufacturer. If your owners manual says put in 87
octane...... DO IT. You are throwing money out the window if you are filling up on Super
or Premium and you only need Regular.
On The Road
Car Won't Start?
When you turn the key, you should be able to hear the fuel pump start up. It may be hard to
hear, so have someone outside the vehicle listen, make sure they are close to the gas tank.
Also check the fuel pump fuse and inertia switch... what is an inertia switch you ask???
Some vehicles have a sensor in the trunk with shuts off the fuel tank in the event of an
accident. This could be a minor fender bender in the parking lot while you are away from
the vehicle and unaware. Most inertia switches have a reset button so you can reset them
and continue on your way.
Bad Gas?
Car not running well? Sputtering or down on power? It's possible you got some bad gas
which has water in it. A bottle of "Dry Gas" can help absorb the water in your fuel tank.
Not as common these days since more gas stations monitor and have much better tank
systems, but it still can happen.
The HVAC System

How your heater and Air Conditioning A/C Works.

Need diagnosis or an A/C Charge and don't want to tackle it yourself, checkoutYour
Mechanic for a quote. They come to your house or place of work and get you fixed up
without the hassle of taking the day off or being without your car.
Without the heating and air conditioning systems in today’s modern vehicles, we would all
be miserable driving to our destinations. We take for granted the heat that keeps us warm in
the winter months, and the cool air that refreshes in the summer time. Let’s take a look at
how both systems work to keep us comfortable all year round.
The heater in your car is basically a smaller version of your cooling systems radiator. Hot
engine coolant is circulated through a small radiator, often times called a heater core. A fan
is positioned in front of the heater core to blow cold outside air over the fins. As this air
travels over the heater core, it heats up and becomes the hot air which blows out your heater
vents.
Like your engines cooling system radiator, the heater core can suffer some of the same
issues. If the heater core becomes clogged with rust or sludge, you will no longer have heat.
Also leaks can cause a cabin full of white steam and really mess up your windows. If you
smell the sweet aroma of coolant when your heater is on, chances are, you have a small
leak in the heater core. Often times the heater core is buried under the dashboard, and
replacing it, is a major job.
The air conditioning system in your car is comprised of a compressor, condenser,
expansion valve and evaporator. If you have ever used a can of compressed air to clean
computer components, you will know that the bottle gets very cold in a short amount of
time. This is due to the rapid expansion of the compressed gas. The same thing happens in
your car’s air conditioning system. Refrigerant (AKA Freon) is compressed in the
compressor and turns into a hot gas. In the condenser, this hot gas is cooled to a liquid state
and travels to the expansion valve. As the Freon goes through the expansion valve it returns
to a low-pressure gas and rapidly cools in the evaporator. A fan blows over the evaporator
and cools the air that eventually blows out your vents.
Click Here For An Excellent Illustration and Further Explanation.
Common Problems:
From time to time the A/C system needs to be recharged to bring it back up to maximum
efficiency. Sometimes a leak may cause loss of refrigerant and will need to be fixed before
refilling. It's difficult to tell if a leak is present without specific test equipment so let it up to
a professional.
In recent years, the EPA has phased out the use of R-12 Freon in all refrigeration systems
and R-134 has become the new standard. If you have an older system with R-12 you may
need to retrofit your system to handle the new R-134 refrigerant. Sometimes seals, hoses
and even the compressor need to be changed. The problem arises when the older seals and
hoses are not compatible with the new oils found in the R-134.
Corrosion will cause the heater core (secondary radiator) to leak. This will manifest itself
by leaving steam into the passenger compartment and fogging your windows. You will
know there is a leak by the sweet smell coming from your vents. Unfortunately changing
the heater core is usually not the easier job in the world as engineers tend to squeeze them
into some pretty tight spaces under the dash.
Getting Hot?
Nothing stinks more than having your Air Conditioning go out while on a long summer
trip. Of course I could tell you to get the system checked BEFORE you ventured out, but
what good would that do now? There is not much you can do while driving to help when
your A/C system has pooped out on you. There are a few things you could check though...
make sure the condenser is free from obstructions (usually sits right in front of the radiator.)
Check belt tension for the compressor, and make sure the clutch wiring is connected
properly.
Fan only blows two speeds, OFF and Full Bore?
Most likely your resistor is shot. The fan circuit has a resistor which controls the speed of
the fan blowing air through your vents. When they go bad, you only have one speed, full
blast. Usually an affordable fix, the hardest part is finding the location of the resistor under
the dash.
Automotive Oil

What do the oil numbers 10W-30 mean?

Your engines rotating parts are protected from heat and friction by a thin layer of oil.
Understanding the viscosity ratings and detergents used in today's modern oils is critical to
keeping your engine running. As an owner there is no more critical maintenance item than
regular oil changes with the proper oil for your car or truck.
I receive a lot of questions regarding oil and the least understood part is the number system
used to rate oils.
Oil weight, or viscosity, refers to how thick or thin the oil is. The temperature requirements
set for oil by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) is 0 degrees F (low) and 210
degrees F (high).
Oils meeting the SAE's low temperature requirements have a "W" after the viscosity rating
(example: 10W), and oils that meet the high ratings have no letter (example SAE 30). An
oil is rated for viscosity by heating it to a specified temperature, and then allowing it to
flow out of a specifically sized hole. Its viscosity rating is determined by the length of time
it takes to flow out of the hole. If it flows quickly, it gets a low rating. If it flows slowly, it
gets a high rating.
Your engine needs oil that is thin enough for cold starts, and thick enough when the engine
is hot. Since oil gets thinner when heated, and thicker when cooled, most of us use what are
called multi-grade, or multi-viscosity oils. These oils meet SAE specifications for the low
temperature requirements of a light oil and the high temperature requirements of a heavy
oil. This is the best of both worlds and is accomplished by using special additives to
increase viscosity with increase temperature.
What weight oil should I use?
Check your owners manual, or under the hood. Most engines will have the recommended
oil weight printed right on the oil fill cap, or on a label in the engine compartment.
Can I run a different weight oil in my car?
It's a tough call, deviating from the manufacturers specs can void warranty, and possibly
cause issues with the engine. If you are low on oil and only have access to 10W-30 when
your car recommends 5W-30, don't sweat it. Top it off, and at the next oil change just make
sure you fill up with the correct weight oil.
Most manufacturers will recommend a range of operating temperatures and oil weights. So
an owner in Alaska is going to need a different weight oil than an owner in Florida. High
mileage engines may also benefit from a thicker oil as clearances open up do to wear, so
going from a 5W-20 to a 5W-30 might help engine noise and wear on engines over 100K
miles.
What is this synthetic oil I keep hearing about?
Synthetic oil is just that... synthetic! It's manufactured instead of dug up from the ground.
It's made to be homogeneous (consistent), and will protect and last longer than
conventional oil. Conventional oil as it comes out of the ground has all flavors of petroleum
contained within it. Through the refining process, they produce all kinds of cool things.
From heavy tar to thin volatile gasoline, it all comes from the oil pumped out of the ground.
Engine oil is towards the heavy end of the products coming from the crude oil, but it can
contain a little of the lighter and heavier components. This is what causes some of the
instability of conventional oil, and allows it to break down quicker that a pure synthetic oil.
Should I run synthetic oil?
It depends on several factors! Do you have a newer car which uses regular oil (dino oil) and
get your oil changed at regular intervals to keep your warranty satisfied? If so, it may not be
economical to run synthetic since the oil change intervals will be lower and costs will go
up. It still may be a good idea if you value your car and plan on keeping it way over
100,000 miles. The extra expense of synthetic will be cheap insurance in this case.
If your car is out of warranty, or came from the manufacturer with synthetic oil in the
engine, then by all means run it. Keep in mind the oil change interval can be extended to
5,000 - 10,000 miles depending on the synthetic oil used and driving conditions. When
synthetic oils first came out, there was a concern about leaking in older engines... this was
due to a curious attribute of conventional oil which causes older cork and rope seals to
swell or expand. Modern synthetic oils have an additive in them to account for this, so this
is no longer a worry. This was really only ever an issue with older engines from pre-1980's
which had rope main seals and it go turned in to an urban legend which had a life of it's
own.
Want to learn more about synthetic oil, the refining process and the myth of the 3,000 mile
oil change?
I am no expert, but I know one who is and he has compiled a handy PDF document you can
download and learn probably more than you EVER wanted to know about oil. Click Here
To Download It For FREE - Thank you Michael Kaufman
On The Road
Oil Light ON?
Pull off the road and turn off the engine as soon as safely possible. Engine damage can
result if you drive with the oil light on. Check oil level and add oil if needed. Also inspect
for oil leaks which could have caused the low oil level.
Running synthetic oil and need to top off with conventional oil?
No problem, modern synthetic oils can be mixed with dino (conventional oil) without issue.
Of course you will lose some of the benefit from having 100% synthetic oil in the engine,
but if it's an emergency and all you can find is regular oil then it's the best option.
The Suspension System

When to replace struts and shocks on your car.

Your suspension soaks up the bumps in the road, keeping you comfortable and safe by
allowing your brakes and tires to work as designed. Let's look at the major components and
then talk a little about what can go wrong.
Spring:
Springs allow your car to absorb the energy of a bump or pothole, without jarring the
occupants of the car. Most cars have 4 springs made from spring steel (huh imagine that!)
and wound in a spiral shape. Some cars (Corvette) have transverse (across) springs and are
made from fiberglass or other composite materials. Made to last the lifetime of the vehicle,
properly sized springs seldom need to be replaced.
Shock:
Shocks work to dampen the springs natural tendancy to oscillate. A good way to test your
shocks is to push on a corner of your car and observe how many times the car bounces.
More than twice and your shocks are worn. The shock is designed with fluid and internal
passages to control the movement of the wheel and dampen the spring, over time the fluid
can leak, degrade or the valving can become damaged.
Strut:
Just a fancy unit that combines the spring and shock in to one unit. Usually a little more
labor to remove the spring when replacing the shock (strut cartridge).
MacPherson Strut:
Just a fancier version of the Strut which also serves as the upper pivot point for the
suspension.
Sway or Roll Bar:
When cornering the forces want to roll your car's body to the outside of the turn. You feel
this same force sitting inside the car. The Sway Bar counteracts this force and helps to keep
the inside wheel in contact with the ground. Stiffer Sway Bar rates give a firmer ride, but
better handling.
Ball Joints:
Your suspension is designed to move up and down with the road. This is accomplished
with control arms which are connected to the spindle by ball joints. They are what they
sound like, a ball and socket joint which allows movement in two dimensions. Most
modern ball joints are lubricated with grease, and are sealed. Older ball joint and some
newer truck ball joint do have a grease fitting to allow adding grease.
Spindle:
The spindle serves as the center point for your wheel, and rotor to rotate around. The
spindle also connects to the lower control arm and upper control arm or MacPherson Strut.
Through the travel of your suspension the spindle should remain as parallel to the road as
possible. Suspension geometry is designed to keep as much of the tire in contact with the
road as possible.
Common Problems:
Shocks and struts can wear out and affect handling. If you car bounces excessively over
bumps and leans hard in corners, your shocks could be warn. Look behind the wheel for the
shock or strut and look for leaking oil. This is a sure sign of a worn shock or strut. Also
check your owners manual, some will give a mileage estimate for shock or strut life. As a
general rule somewhere in the 60,000 - 75,000 mile range depending on your driving style
and road conditions.
Ball joints. Ball joints wear and can cause your car to wander while driving down the road.
This is dangerous as they can separate and cause you to lose control.
Sway bar bushings can wear out over time and will allow the sway bar to clunk when
turning corners or at low speeds. A fairly inexpensive part to replace, but gaining access
can be tricky depending on the vehicle.
Preventive maintenance:
Check your shocks or struts for leakage frequently. Also pay attention to how your car
handles. If you notice the ride deteriorating take your car in to have the struts checked. 
Ball joints should be checked when your car is inspected, if not, have your mechanic check
them at least twice a year.
At each oil change make sure you or your mechanic lubricates the ball joints and any other
suspension components. Some components can not be lubricated as they are sealed from
the factory.
On The Road
Car Sagging?
A broken spring or shock can create a dangerous handling situation. Do not attempt to drive
your vehicle, as braking and cornering may be affected. Pull off to a safe spot and call a
tow truck.
ABS light going off during hard stops or on rough roads?
Worn shocks or struts can cause the wheels to bounce under braking and will engage the
ABS system prematurely. A clean sign you need to replace those worn shocks or struts.
Wheels and Tires

Wheel and tire basics, what you need to know...

When shopping for wheels and tires, most people are in the dark about sizing, tread design
and wheel construction. In this section of AutoShop101 we take a look at how you can
make an educated buying decision when it comes to buying wheels and tires.
What do the wheels and tires do for your car?
The wheels and tires are your vehicle's connection to the road. This connection effects
handling, ride comfort, braking and even fuel efficiency. If you care about looking good
while driving down the street, your wheels and tires can also contribute greatly to the look
and style of your ride.
Before we look at the mechanics involved, let's look at the construction of the typical wheel
and tire.
How are car wheels made?
The majority of wheels on cars and trucks are made from steel or aluminum (also known as
alloy wheels). Steel wheels are typically finished off with a plastic hubcap to give the look
of a custom alloy wheel. Alloy wheels are typically cast or forged and polished or
powdercoated to give a shiny finish to the wheel. Some aluminum and steels wheels are
finished off with a chrome finish to leave a bright reflective coating.
When it comes to cost, steel wheels lead the pack with the cheapest purchase price. Cast
aluminum wheels are the next more costly option with forged and mag wheels leading the
pack of the most expensive wheels out there. In general, the larger the wheel, the more it
costs. A 15" steel wheel may be $50 and a 22" chrome plated forged alloy wheel may be as
much as $600 per wheel!
How are tires made?
Tires are made from rubber which is molded around a steel and nylon belted core. Under
high pressure and heat, the rubber vulcanizes and forms to the tread pattern machined into
the mold. Manufacturers vary additives to the rubber compound to effect handling, wet/dry
traction and ride quality. The tread pattern is also key to the handling, wet/dry traction and
ride quality for a tire. The trick when shopping for tires is to find the best compromise of
the factors for your vehicle and driving style. As in life, everything is a compromise, so to
get a great handling tire, you may have to give up some ride quality or wet traction. If you
want a great tire for wet conditions, you may have to give up dry traction or over all
handling.
What can go wrong?
Flat Tire: A flat tire can ruin your day. Nails, debris and even vandals can flatten a tire
when you least expect it. Depending on the damage, the tire can be repaired with a patch or
plug. If you have a flat, do not drive longer than needed to get to a safe place to change the
tire. Before you have a flat tire, make sure you have a properly inflated spare and that you
know the proper procedure for changing a spare tire. Once you have the tire changed, take
the tire to a trusted tire shop and have it repaired. When properly repaired, a tire can lead a
long and happy life, until the tread wears out.
Worn Tires:  Eventually your tires will wear out, it's just a fact of
life. If a tire was able to be made to last forever, it would have to be so hard, as to make
ride comfort and handling unbearable. All tires have a wear indicator molded into the tread
to let you know when it's time to replace your tires. This wear indicator or wear bar runs
across the tire and is about 2/32" above the bottom of the tread pattern. When the tread
wears down and this wear bar is flush with the top of the tread, it's time to change your
tires. If you have a penny handy, you can use it to check your tread depth. From the edge of
the penny to the top of Lincoln's head is about 2/32". So if you stick the penny between the
tire tread and some of Lincoln's head is not visible then you have more than 2/32" of tread
left. Please be aware that misalignment in your suspension can cause uneven wear, so you
should check tread depth and both edges of the tire as well as the middle. Proper tire
rotation and inflation will keep your tires wearing evenly and prevent premature
replacement.
Bent Rim: It only takes a light hit to a curb while parking to bent a steel or alloy wheel.
While steel wheels are a little easier to fix, alloy wheels can take a little more skill. If you
have a bent rim, it can effect handling and even cause the tire to leak air over time. Check
for local wheel repair shops, and evaluate the cost of repair vs. buying a new wheel.
On The Road
Flat Tire?
Stay calm and move to a safe area away from traffic if possible. If you can not reach a pull-
off area, call for help and get a tow, it's way to dangerous to change a flat tire close to
traffic. Running on a flat tire will ruin the tire and possibly the wheel if you drive on it long
enough.
Basic Tire Changing Instructions:
Always consult your owners manual or instructions with your spare tire. Remove spare tire
and jack, making sure you have everything you needed to change the tire. Break loose the
lugnuts prior to jacking up the car, do not full remove, just loosen an 1/8 of a turn or less.
Jack up car at the recommended spot per your owners manual and remove the lug nuts. Put
spare in place and tighten lug nuts as much as possible. Lower jack, and fully tighen lug
nuts.
Do you have a green cap on your valve stem?
Most likely your tires are filled with Nitrogen. Nitrogen is a larger molecule and expands
less than air when heated, making is a perfect gas to fill your tires with. A little more
expensive than just filling with air, Nitrogen is becoming more popular. You can add
regular air in an emergency without issue, but will eventually lose the benefits of having
pure nitrogen in there.
Learn how to care for your cars paint, tires, engine compartment and more.

No tests, no homework, just easy to understand

lessons on how to care for your car. We know most people just stop off at their local car
wash every couple of months. This not only leads to scratches and faded paint, but can end
up costing you more in the end! Time is at a premium, but using our tips on washing and
waxing your car will allow you to keep your car's paint in tip-top shape and it will pay off
when you go to trade-in or sell your car!
Wash - The first step to a clean car, washing can be more complex than you think. Read
more...
Clean - The key to a long lasting shine, propely cleaning your paint is a must. Read more...
Protect - Wax is your paint's protection from the elements. Get it right and your car will
thank you. Read more...
Tires & Rubber Care - So your paint is taken care of, how about your tires and other rubber
trim components? Read more...
Wheels - Brake dust sucks! Keeping your wheels clean can be a real chore without the right
knowledge and products. Read more...
Engine Compartment - Don't neglect your engine compartment! A clean engine can make
repairs and diagnosing leaks easier, plus it can help component last longer like hoses and
belts. Read more...
The Research
Car Buying Online Research
Summary: The internet has brought us an overload of information. It's a great resource for
car buying but you can get lost in the sea of numbers. Check out the advice below for
getting the most accurate pricing and buying information on new and used cars.
Researching your new vehicle is a daunting task in today's world. Once you have narrowed
your next vehicle down to 2 or 3 choices it is time to research. Take out a sheet of paper for
each vehicle and write down pros and cons for each one. Also on each sheet of paper list
the attributes which are most important to you.
This list might include.
MPG - if you put a lot of miles on your car this factor could make a big dent in your wallet
if you pick the wrong car.
Engine power - HP is a big factor for many people out there.
Price - nothing needs to be said about this one.
Interior space
Repair costs - consider the average costs to repair a fender-bender.
Insurance costs - this is often overlooked by buyers and can catch you by surprise.
Standard options.
Anything else which is a factor to you.
The idea is to custom tailor your list to meet your needs. If you don't care about engine
power then leave it off your list. 

Now how do you get the information which is on your list. Here is a list of excellent
resources to use in your search.
Offline:
Consumer Reports Magazine
Auto Week magazine
Your local newspaper's auto section
Local dealers
Online:
Consumer Reports - requires a subscription just like the magazine.
Edmunds.com
Kelly Blue Book
NADA guide book
After your research is done you should have a clear picture of which car is right for you.
What do you say? Clear as mud? Well take a step back and if you have 2 vehicles which
are comparable you will then have to resort to one of the following.
Go with your gut feeling. You know the one which says get the Porsche not the Yugo.
Ask your wife, husband or SO. (you might want to let them in on the decision a little earlier
than this if they will be driving the car too.)
Flip a coin.
Ask your god for some divine intervention?
Good luck !
Considering Trading In Your Car?
Make it the last point in your negotiation. Many times dealers have trade-in values figured
in to the asking price of a vehicle, so they can give the appearance of giving you more
money for your trade. Negotiate a fair price for the car you are interested in, then bring up
the trade-in issue. Make sure you know the value of your trade-in. See our research page for
more information on getting trade-in values. Understand that the dealer has every reason in
the world to offer you less than your trade-in is worth.
Check the fine print before you sign!
Dealers have been known to slip in undercoating, window etching and other add-on items
that line their pockets with pure profit. Take your time and read over EVERYTHING!
Auto Insurance
Car Insurance Tips
With the advent of the internet, it's even easier to save money on your car insurance. An
online car insurance quote is not only a great source of information but can be a great
money saving tool.Online quotes also allow the convenience of comparing insurance costs
from the comfort of home.
You can save hundreds of dollars per year by shopping online for car insurance but make
sure you are comparing apples to apples.
Car insurance can be a tough thing to compare, as most shoppers are not familiar with all
the features of a typical car insurance policy. As always there is some urban legend, and
just plain wrong advice floating about the internet about car insurance. Let's first take a
look at what goes into a comprehensive insurance policy, then we can start searching for
the best deal online.
Premium: Let's start off with an easy one, since we need to warm up the old noggin before
we tackle some of the more complex parts of your car insurance policy. The premium is the
amount you pay for your car insurance policy. (I told you we were going to start off easy)
But, there is a catch here to watch out for! If you pay monthly, you may be paying more for
your car insurance. Most companies will offer a discount for yearly payments, or charge a
paperwork fee for monthly billing. No matter what you call it, you end up paying more if
you pay monthly.
Now depending on your economic circumstances, or your vehicle being insured, you may
not be able to pay an entire year up front. In this case, ask if you can get a discount for
automatic monthly withdrawls from your bank account. If you can't live with this option,
then all you can do is live with the extra fee (if charged) and make sure you figure in this
extra expense when comparing policies.
Collision vs. Comprehensive
Knowing your terminology can help you save a ton of money when shopping for car
insurance. Today we bring you an article about the difference between Collision and
Comprehensive coverage.
In the world of automobile insurance, two types of coverage, collision andcomprehensive
auto insurance, are often confused, or mistaken for each other. While both include coverage
limits and deductibles, there are major differences in what each type of policy really covers.
Collision:
Collision insurance covers you if your car or truck is in a traffic accident – if you crash into
another car, or into something like a light pole. An easy way to remember this is that
collision insurance protects you if you collide with something.
Your collision policy will pay out when you are at fault in an auto accident, but if someone
else is at fault, it is their responsibility to fix or replace your vehicle. Most of the time, the
other driver's liability insurance will cover such expenses, but if not you probably have un-
or under-insured motorist insurance as part of your total package, and that will kick in.
Remember that if your automobile is leased or financed, and you are in an accident, the
insurance company will pay the holder of your lease or note, not you. If your car is very
new, it is possible that such a payout will not equal the amount of the loan or lease, which
is why – with leases especially – it is recommended that you have gap insurance
coverage in addition to collision coverage. Gap insurance is extra coverage that pays the
difference between your collision coverage and the amount of your loan or lease.
Comprehensive:
Some people refer to comprehensive coverage as "other than collision insurance," because
it offers protection for damages caused by things other than traffic accidents, including fire,
theft, natural disasters, vandalism, acts of God, and impacts with animals (if you hit a deer,
comprehensive insurance covers it; collision does not.)
As with collision insurance, payouts on comprehensive insurance claims are only up to the
fair market value of your vehicle. Gap insurance can be useful in times when a new car is
stolen or damaged.
Deductibles and Premiums:
Comprehensive and Collision policies both have deductibles and premiums. The deductible
is the amount of money you pay out of pocket before the coverage kicks in, when you make
a claim. The premium is the annual (or semi-annual) amount of money you pay to obtain
and retain coverage.
You do have some choice about the amount of your deductible, and the amount you choose
will affect what you pay in premiums. If you have significant savings, and can weather a
financial storm, you may want to choose a higher deductible and keep your premium low.
On the other hand, a lower deductible will make your premium higher, but in the event of a
claim, you won't have to pay as much out of pocket
Which Type of Coverage Do I Need?
When it comes to insurance for car the type of coverage that is best for you, one of the
major factors is the age of your car. For very new cars, especially those that are financed or
leased, it's probably wisest to have both types of coverage, and, in fact, most lenders will
require this "full coverage."
For older cars, you may wish to drop some of your coverage in order to save money, but
you should check with your insurance agent before making such a decision.
Quick Tips
Just had an accident?
Pull over to a safe place if possible. Call emergency services if there are injuries or any of
the vehicles will need to be towed. Trade insurance information and get pictures of all
vehicle license plates involved if possible. Tempers can flare after an accident, keep a cool
head and avoid confrontation.
Auto Loans
How do I pay for my new car?
Unless you have a bottomless pit of money, you will probably need to look at financing
your new or used car purchase. We will look at the options available to you, and even do
some basic math. Learning the basics of auto financing can save you thousands of dollars
over the life of your loan.
Should I lease or buy a new car?
It really comes down to this... Do you want to be driving a new car every 2 - 3 years and
can you deal with your mileage being restricted? Leasing is a great way to drive a little
more expensive car than you could afford if you were buying, but you won't own it after the
lease term is up. For some people that's fine, for others they plan on not having an eternal
car payment, and keep their vehicles more than 3 years. I personally don't like a lease since
I don't want to have to worry about mileage and if I keep the car longer than 3 years, I won't
have a car payment to deal with.
How to finance your new car.
As if you didn't have enough trouble finding the car of your dreams now you have to figure
out how to pay for it. No doubt you see the low monthly payments offered in the paper. I
bet you also had to squint to realize that it was a lease price being advertised. Be aware of
all the low to zero interest rates advertised, they often are only valid for customers with
perfect credit. Making sure your Credit is in tip-top shape will help you qualify for these
low interest rates.
Decide where you will finance: It's convenient to finance through the dealer but many times
you are not getting the best interest rate.
Consider the following sources:
Credit Unions: If you belong to one, you can usually get much lower interest rates. Credit
Unions are there to serve you, not themselves.
Online Lenders: With lower overhead, online lenders can offer you better rates than a
dealer.
The idea is to have your credit in order, several finance offers in your pocket BEFORE you
ever step foot in the dealer's showroom. This will allow you to get the best deal possible
when it comes to terms and interest rate. A dealer will make some from arranging the
financing, so they have an incentive to work with you and match or beat your other offers.
They also usually get paid more if the interest rates are higher, so beware they are really
working against your best interests when it comes to loan terms.
Also you need to consider...
Downpayment: Most dealers require a downpayment. If you are trading in a car which is
under water (you owe more than it's worth) you may be in a situation where you will need
Gap Insurance. Gap Insurance is a small policy which covers the difference between the
loan value and the value of the vehicle you are financing. In the event of an accident which
totals the vehicle, you would not have enough insurance to cover the loan payoff, Gap
Insurance fills that "Gap". The other consideration with a downpayment is depreciation...
As soon as you drive that car off the lot, it loses some of it's value. You want to try your
hardest to not go "under water" with your loan, so a large downpayment can help by
covering some of the first year depreciation.
Check the fine print: Make sure you will not be penalized for paying off the loan early or
for auto refinancing. Also check the minimum collision coverage required.If you are used
to carrying a $1000 deductible and the lender requires a $500 deductible, you could be in
for a surprise when the insurance bill shows up.
If you decide to go to the dealer to arrange the financing, request to see the approval letter
from the lending institution. Dealers can mark up the interest rates and earn commission by
doing this little trick.
Before signing: Check the fine print ! Always keep a calculator with you and double check
everything.
At The Dealer
Considering Financing?
Come prepared with an outside offer from your bank or credit union. Also don't get
pressured in to a loan at a longer term than you want! Never play the payment game with
them, negotiate the price, settle on terms and get the deal done. They will try all kinds of
creative tactics to get your payment where you want it, but they end up jacking up the
interest rate and extending the terms.
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At The Dealer
Factory or aftermarket warranty?
Did you know you can price shop factory extended warranties? If you are buying a used
car, dealerships will get competitive with their quotes, so don't assume you have to buy the
warranty on the spot. Check online forums and user groups, members can recommend
dealerships which will sell you a factory backed extended warranty over the phone at a
good price. I personally saved over $800 when purchasing a GM Extended warranty for my
wife's Cadillac SRX.
Auto Warranty
Extended Auto Warranty Tips
Summary: More and more people are putting off purchasing a new car, and attempting to
keep their used car running until economic times improve. Purchasing an extended car
warranty is a great way to protect yourself from major repair bills which would have
otherwise drained your wallet. Read below to learn how to shop for an extended car
warranty and get the best price and coverage.
There are many choices when it comes to a used car warranty or more correctly called an
auto service contract. Most dealerships will sell a car warranty at the time of sale, but be
warned, they get a kick back from the contract so you are not getting the best price. There
are plenty of online sources for a car warranty, we recommend:
Warranty Direct - Free Extended Warranty Quote
After you have read the information below, consider getting a quote.
What it is an extended warranty?
An extended warranty on a vehicle is a service contract just like the type you can buy for
your refrigerator or TV. It provides coverage for certain items in the vehicle after the
original warranty expires for a specified time or mileage reached. It requires that the
vehicle be maintained per the recommended service schedule for the vehicle with records to
show that the maintenance was completed. As your vehicle’s mileage increases and
approaches 100K miles, it will be more difficult to find a provider willing to offer a
contract.
There are two basic types of coverage offered: wear and tear and mechanical breakdown.
Wear and tear covers items that wear out faster than normal such as engine components.
Mechanical breakdown covers major components that do not normally fail over the
coverage period, e.g. transaxles and engines. There are many levels of coverage offered
ranging from only mechanical breakdown to the most comprehensive coverage including
emissions, entertainment and navigation systems.
Four major coverage levels or plans are marketed but the items included do vary between
providers’ plans. Most providers offer several if not all four of these plans. These plans are
listed below in increasing coverage level:
Major Item: covers only major items for mechanical breakdown and may cover some wear
and tear items.
Named Component: items covered are listed and can be touted as ‘bumper to bumper’ but
usually exclude some parts.
Bumper to Bumper: also called exclusionary since they cover so many parts that they list
only the parts that are excluded.
Luxury: combines bumper to bumper with coverage for luxury items such as entertainment
and navigation systems.
Why you should get an Extended Warranty
The most common reason for getting an extended warranty is peace of mind and protection
from large repair bills as the vehicle gets older. However, the reliability of vehicles has
improved significantly over the past 15 years causing the average buyer of an extended
warranty to spend $300 more on the premium than claims covered(per Consumer Reports
in an April 2008 article.) CR found that an extended warranty could be worthwhile if you
buy a less reliable vehicle based on members’ experience. These less reliable vehicles are
Jeep, Pontiac, Buick, Chrysler, Dodge, Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Ford, VW, Saturn and
GMC in increasing reliability rating. If you’re considering the purchase of one of these
vehicles or you just want the peace of mind that you’re covered, then an extended warranty
can be the way to go. Also a transferable contract can be a good selling point if you sell the
car before it expires.
When you should get an Extended Warranty
Most car buyers don’t think about an extended warranty until they hear the pitch for one at
the dealer during the final stage of the buying process. Consumer Reports suggests that you
wait to shop for an extended warranty until 6 months before your regular warranty expires.
By then you will know if you want to keep the car long enough and if reliability is a
concern such that you want to consider an extended warranty. Although by then the
contract price may be higher, it is cheaper to forego it then than to have bought the contract
at the car purchase date and not need or use it.
Where to get an Extended Warranty
Dealer
Most extended warranties are purchased at the dealer at the time of vehicle sale. Most new
car dealers sell the manufacturer’s extended warranty plans. These are generally more
expensive but you eliminate the concern that the administrator of the contract will be
around when you need to file a claim. Smaller administrators of extended warranties still do
go bankrupt from insufficient claim reserve funds.
Some new car dealers sell non-manufacturer warranties at slightly lower cost for several
reasons. Usually the dealer’s commission or overall profit on a contract is higher for a
third-party administrator than for a factory plan which may pay a lower commission.
On-line/phone
Ideally, you think about getting an extended warranty before you buy the new car and you
either decide to wait until the regular warranty is close to expiring or you look for a lower
cost warranty to compare to the dealer’s offer. There are many on-line sites offering free
quotes for extended warranties. They usually provide the basic information for each plan.
We recommend Warranty Direct for your online warranty needs.
Selecting an Extended Warranty
Decide on the coverage you want
First, get some quotes on the different plans offered by several providers either on-line or
by telephone from a local agent. See what you get coverage-wise for the cost to help you
decide what level of coverage you would like.
Also research the repair history of your vehicle to highlight any systems that are frequently
repaired. You will probably want these covered by the warranty you select. Consumer
Reports publishes repair frequency data by model for the past six years in each April issue
as well as on-line. If you’re not a subscriber, you can become an on-line subscriber and
access this data very quickly. There are other car repair databases compiled each year and
can be found in bookstores and on-line.
When comparing plans, calculate their annual costs over the actual times in effect, not the
total time since purchase if a new car. Don’t be fooled by the pitch at car buying time that
the contract is for 8 years/100K miles, when it only starts when the new car factory
warranty expires. It may be in effect for only 5 years or 64K miles if the factory warranty
was 3 yrs./36K miles.
Some plans say they are a higher coverage type but exclude some items usually included in
higher coverage plans. Therefore, it is very important that you compare plans very carefully
before making a decision. Insist on seeing a contract for comparing plans before making a
final decision.
To lower the cost, consider a contract with a $100 deductible. But be sure it applies to each
overall claim and not to each part repaired or replaced.
Claim Issues
Check that the repairs can be done at any ASE certified repair facility and not only at the
dealer where the contract was purchased. Make sure the contract administrator pays the
repair shop directly preferably by credit card to avoid a delay in repairing the vehicle.
Check if a part is covered if its failure was caused by the failure of a non-covered part.
Some plans including some manufacturer contracts do not cover this type of failure.
Check the definition of the term ‘reasonable cost’. If it is vague, you may find it difficult to
get full payment of the repair from the provider.
Also, be aware that if a tear-down is done to determine the failure cause and cost of repair
and the failure is not covered, you are responsible for the tear-down charge as well as the
repair charge.
Also, you won’t find normal wear items such as brake pads, rotors, belts, hoses, glass, and
lenses covered by the plans with wear and tear coverage.
Be sure the contract provides car rental and towing if you don’t have it with your standard
insurance policy.
Checking out Providers
Extended warranties can be marketed and sold by one company with the contracts
administered by another company. The administrator then must either be insured by a
property and casualty company or create a claims reserve fund to insure solvency. Check
the rating of the insurance company covering the administrator. An A rating is desired to be
confident the administrator will be around until the end of the contract. Be leery of an
administrator that is not insured and has set-up a claims reserve fund as it is difficult to
assess whether it is sufficient.
Get a detailed contract to review before purchasing a contract. If you cannot review the
contract before buying, move on to another provider. Also be sure that there is a 100%
money-back guarantee for the first 30 or 60 days of the contract if there is no claim and you
change your mind and want to cancel it.
You can check companies offering extended warranties at the Better Business Bureau’s
website, bbbonline.org, to see if they are accredited and their BBB experience rating even if
they are not accredited.
Negotiate a lower price
Yes, you can bargain and lower the price for an extended warranty! 75% of extended
warranty buyers surveyed by Consumer Reports negotiated a lower price. CR says to go
with the $100 deductible and get the price to 1-2% of the car cost per year.
Consider yourself an expert on car warranties now ! Don't forget to get as many quotes as
you can to assure you are getting the lowest price and best service. Visit our recommended
sites today and begin your quest for the perfect car warranty.
Warranty Direct - Free Extended Warranty Quote
Making the Deal
Car Buying Tips
Buying a new or used car has changed with the advent of the internet. No longer are you in
the dark on true dealer cost and elusive rebates and promotions. There is no better time to
get the best deal on a new or used car, dealer's are hungry for your business, but make sure
you have the latest advice and strategies to get the best deal on your new or used car.
Car Buying Online...
We use the Internet for communicating, entertainment, and even education, so why not use
it to get a good deal on a new car? The process of buying a new car has evolved with the
rise of the Internet and the rules have finally tilted in the consumer's favor.
The process of buying a new car used to be one of epic battles between your dad and the
salesman, each on fighting for the last penny. Dad knew the dealer was making a hefty
profit, but he was never quite sure how much. Back in the day, the true dealer cost was not
readily available to the average consumer. Any if dad was trading in a car in the deal, he
was never certain of the trade-in value, since pricing guides were not regularly published.
The dealership had the edge back in the day, having all the numbers they needed to make
sure they made a sweet and profitable deal off of poor old dad.
Fast-forward to 2006 and now you have all the information your father never had at your
fingertips. Just fire up your favorite web browser and start your new car buying quest.

The first area that the Internet really helps is in researching which car to buy. Car clubs,
online reviews, and even automaker's websites provide a ton of information to help you
pick your next vehicle. The major sites likewww.Edmunds.com , www.kbb.com.
and www.Car.com all have detailed vehicle specifications and allow you to compare
features and pricing between vehicles. If you get confused, try making a simple spreadsheet
in MS Excel to help organize your thoughts. If you are not that computer literate, a simple
pad of paper will work fine to record information.
Before I buy a new car, I like to search for an online club or group dedicated to that vehicle.
You would be surprised at how many clubs are out there, even for common run of the mill
vehicles. If you are buying a performance vehicle, you will have better luck finding a club
and some knowledgeable members who can point you in the right direction. Most clubs
will have a forum where you can search for information and ask questions before you buy.
Members will recommend which trim level to buy, and some of the common problems
found on the new vehicles. It's amazing that brand new cars today still roll off the assembly
line with problems, but they do. Some forums will even have salesmen from dealerships
stop in and post special deals in the forums.
Once you have your new car chosen, you need to start finish your research by determining
the true dealer cost, so you can negotiate with the dealer. Rebates, manufacturer to dealer
incentives and invoice price all need to be determine. Rebates and invoice pricing can be
found at any of the sites mentioned above. The manufacturer to dealer incentives are
tougher to find, and the only site I have found that list them is www.Edmunds.com .
Once you have all the numbers determined, add up the incentives and rebates and subtract
them from the invoice price. This is your true dealer cost, assuming you will be applying
any customer rebates to the deal. You can then start negotiating from this true dealer cost
number. I recommend offering to pay between 3 - 4% over true dealer cost, which I believe
is a fair offer. Most dealers today are used to educated customers who have done their
homework on the Internet. They know they will make their money back on service and
repair, so they are willing to work on narrower margins.
The last tricky negotiating point is the trade-in. Again the above-mentioned sites will give
you a good starting point on trade-in value. I will caution you though, dealers love to use
Kelly Blue Book pricing for trade-in prices, as they always seem lower. I always suggest
checking the other sites mentioned above as well as www.NADAGuides.com. Most lending
institutions use NADA pricing information for their loan values and they have fairly
accurate information.
If you do not wish to trade-in your old car, look to online advertising to sell it online and
make a little more money than trade-in value.
The above tips should get you on your way to your next new car, but be aware... there are
still some old school salesmen out there that will fight you tooth and nail. If you come
across them, it's sometimes better to just walk away and find another dealer who is in the
21st century.
Selling your Car
What is the best way to sell my car?
Typically car dealers will never give you top dollar for your trade-in. By selling your car
privately, you can get every penny of value from it, and save yourself the hassle of
negotiating a trade-in with the deal. Selling your car online is the quickest way of getting
your car or truck sold.
Selling your car can be a long and drawn out process if done the wrong way. I have helped
1,000's of people sell their used car online in the shortest amount of time.
Save yourself some time and money by following the steps below.
Research the value before you place a classified ad. Too high a price will scare people
away. Take into consideration the mileage, condition, and the records you have kept.
People will be more willing to buy a car if you kept good records of all maintenance. When
arriving at an asking price look at all the online sources and get an average cost. Most sites
use different databases for pricing information and your best price is an average from all of
the sites. You can get pricing information online at any of the following online websites:
Kelly Blue Book - They now have a private sale value which is what you can expect to sell
your car for to a private party. I have heard others say Kelly Blue Book pricing is a little
high, and after researching many cars online I must agree.
NADA - The choice of most dealers and financial institutions.
Edmunds - Another great source for pricing
When writing your ad, make sure to include the basics...Year, make, model, color, price,
mileage, phone number and best time to contact you. Adding OBO (Or Best Offer) after the
selling price may get you a few more responses since the buyer will know you are flexible.
(if you are)
Clean your car before anyone comes to see it. Make sure you sweep out the interior and
clean any spots from the carpet and upholstery. Also a good coat of wax would not hurt.
Consider going to a reputable detailing business to have the car cleaned. This can literally
add 100's of dollars to the resale value.
If you have an extended warranty on your car, check if it's transferable. This can ease a
seller's mind and possibly make the sale.
Collect receipts and service records. This can give the buyer a sense for how you cared for
the car.
Should I sell my car on CraigsList?
A CraigsList.org ad can work and the price is right! (FREE) But be aware Craigslist is full
of scams and idiots. Be clear about the details, don't give out your phone number in the ad,
and meet in a public place to show the vehicle until you get a sense of the person. I have
sold many vehicles and parts through Craigslist and it can be annoying at times, but then
again you can not argue with the price, or the local reach it offers.
Should I sell my car on Ebay?
I don't usually recommend selling a car on Ebay unless it's a really desirable modern
vehicle or a rare classic car. Yes, Ebay offers a large audience, but the fees can be high, and
the hassle of shipping and dealing with bidders is not worth it when selling an average car.
The same goes for sites like AutoTrader.com and Cars.com. They do attract a more local
audience, but the cost just does not make sense with CraigsList out there.
How to find anything on Craigslist faster
Searching for a used car or auto parts? Craigslist can be a great source for deals, but finding
them is not always easy. While Craigslist offers some basic filters there are more advanced
tools hiding under the hood. Let's take a look at a few easy ways to find what you are
looking for...
1. K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid): Craigslist is the wild west of classifieds, they let
anyone post items for sale and they don't require most information be filled in. So when
searching for a car most of the fields (Year, Make, Model, Engine, Transmission) are never
filled out. So you could go crazy with the search filters and start searching for a 2000 -
2005 Ford F-150 with a 6cyl engine and manual transmission and come up with a limited
selection because only 25% of the people actually filled out all the details of the vehicle
they are listing. In this case K.I.S.S. and don't filter right away by transmission or engine.
Year is usually ok, but not always.
2. Misspellings: Again, they let anyone post, so you will get some keyboard cowboys with
poor spelling and grammar, what can you do? Think about possible misspellings,
abbreviations and slang for the product you are looking for. Searching for a truck, make
sure you search for "pickup" as well.
3. Wild Cards: An asterisk can save you time. "fo** truck" matches "ford truck", "food
truck" and "foul truck". Helpful in catching some misspellings.
4. Categories: When looking for a car or truck you would think it's best to search in "Cars
& Trucks" but believe me, there are cars and trucks in other categories like "Business",
"Farm+Garden", "Auto Parts" and even "FREE" categories. Consider doing a search in the
general "For Sale" category to catch everything.
5. Get Regular: Regular Expressions that is... One of the biggest time savers I have found is
the ability to use regular expressions in your search query. No need to know what regular
expressions are, but if you really want to know check out this link. Just know it makes
searching more powerful. So here are the basics, you can combine terms in an "OR"
statement by using a pipe "|". Example: I am looking for a Ford Truck, not sure if I want a
1/2 ton, 3/4 ton or 1 ton so I could use the following search string to grab all three...
f150|f250|f350
Now that may be ok but remember tip #2 from above, some people use a dash list the
model e.g. F-150, so we now can search for...
f150|f250|f350|f-150|f-250|f-350
And to take care of those people who don't list the model we can use this to cast a wider
net...
f150|f250|f350|f-150|f-250|f-350|(Ford Truck)|(Ford Pickup)
Notice the () around the search terms that have a space in them. This is required in regular
expressions as the space is interpreted as the end of the statement unless it's encapsulated in
parentheses.
6. Get an APP: Not going to recommend a specific APP as they come and go, but there are
some good apps out there which allow you to get alerts when new items come up for sale
on Craigslist. They also allow you to search multiple regional Craigslist sites at the same
time.
A word of caution to those attempting to use Craigslist for arbitrage or "flipping", most
APPs use the RSS feed from Craigslist which is not always updated in a timely manner.
You will always get the latest items by searching the live site. If you are looking for a good
deal, it may be gone before the RSS feed updates. This delay in updating the RSS feed can
be 10 minutes to an hour in my experience.
Happy Deal Hunting!!!
PS: I have created a video version of this page for those who would like to see these tips in
action.