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Timothy E Behrend
To cite this article: Timothy E Behrend (1984) Kraton, taman, mesjid: A brief survey and
bibliographic review of Islamic antiquities in Java, Indonesia Circle. School of Oriental & African
Studies. Newsletter, 12:35, 29-55, DOI: 10.1080/03062848408729594
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29
I. INTRODUCTION
While this article will only deal with palaces, gardens, and mosques,
these are not, of course, the only architectural or archaeological re-
mains available for study. Graves and grave-sites, for example, which
together form the most numerous group of Islamo-Javanese antiquities,
have been entirely excluded. Because of their number and diversity, the
relative lack of descriptions in the secondary literature, and the complex
social and religious role they continue to play in contemporary Javanese
life, these deserve a separate and detailed treatment elsewhere. Water-
works, the historical geography of villages and capitals, ceramic and
utensil finds, and other archaeological material will likewise not be
considered here, though their value in reconstructing the history of Java
certainly equals, and may surpass, that of the monuments forming the con-
tent of this essay.
31
Though kraton are known and referred to, albeit obliquely, from the
earliest inscriptions of the Old Javanese period (van der Meulen, 1979:23),
little is known of their form and use before the fourteenth century, when .._
Prapanca provided a fairly detailed description of the palace of Majapahit.
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The six palaces of the Mataram dynasty - Kuthe Gedhe, Kerta, Plered,
Kartasura, Surakarta, Yogyakarta - represent a continuous tradition and
are related to each other genealogically. In fact, a new palace was con"-
sidered the putra, son, of its predecessor, ^ and was consciously built
on the plan of its parent kraton,
The walled kraton proper, which splits the beteng compound into two
distinct halves, is roughly rectangular in shape. At its northern and
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IC No. 35, Nov. 8U
southern gates the kraton walls connect with the higher ramparts of the
baluwarti3 and beyond these gates lie two large enclosed courtyards CSee
Fig. 2 ) . The palace contains 200 separate buildings or more, and may be
divided into seven functional parts, marked by the letters a-f in the dia-
gram. These parts are:
(a) the northern and southern courtyards (alun-alun) ,'
(b) the "ceremonial axis";
(c) the inner palace (Dalem Prabasuyasa);
(d) the kaputren3 or female residence;
(e) the kadipaten3 or residence of the adipatij
(f) the non-specialized remainder of the kraton enclosure.
west would stand the central mosque, or mesjid agung of the city. The
local potentate or aristocrat built his dwelling south of the square. In
later times the home and office of the resident Dutch official were located
north of the alun-alun near the market.
The Alun-alun Lor of Surakarta was about 300 metres on each side and
was encircled by a tall wall. Entrance was gained through a monumental
gate at the north of the square, guarded by two statues of monstrous
guards, raseksa, reclaimed from the ruins of a near-by old Javanese temple.
The most outstanding feature of the square was the pair of sacred wrvngvn3
or banyan, trees at its centre. As a gathering place the alun-alun was
often the site of royal pageantry. Tilts, martial dances and exercises,
tiger fights, religious fairs, and other activities that attracted large
numbers of spectators all took place here.
Between the northern and southern alun-alun was the palace proper.
Along the north-south axis connecting the two squares lay a string of
courtyards, connected by monumental gates or gate buildings, in which the
greater part of the ceremonial life of the kingdom was carried out. There
were seven courts in all. These comprised a large central area, called
Pelataran3 where the main throne of the king and the principal reception
halls were located and six smaller, symmetrically arranged courts, three
to its north and three to its south. The string of courts thus consisted
of:
(.1) the Sitinggil Lor3 an outer audience hall where the king sat on days
of state (Monday, Thursday, Saturday) and from which he conducted
much of the business of state;
(2) the Kernandhungan Lor3 an outer entrance court;
(3) the Srimanganti Lor3 a waiting area for those seeking an audience
with the king;
(4) the Pelataran3 as above;
(5) the Magangan3 a courtyard where, among other things, youthful
apprentices would he trained in the martial arts;
34
The single most important building in the kraton complex lay just
to the west of the ceremonial axis at the centre of the Pelataran. This
was the Dalem Prabasuyasa3 the ritual heart of the palace. Rather than
the residence proper of the king, as was thought by some, the Prabasuyasa
was actually a building used principally for the storage of the royal
palladia, the sacred heirlooms that the ruler must control for his kingdom
to prosper and be at peace. Within the several rooms of this large build-
ing were kept, among other things, an ornamental bed; a set of statues, the
loro blonyOj representing Dewi Sri and Dewa Sadana; the eternal flame of
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Ki Agung Sela;l° the sekar wijaya kusuma3 or sacred flower that would
blossom as long as the king possessed the wahyu3 or right to rule;19 the-,
state regalia, or amp-lien dalem-, and the symbols of state, or upaaara.
If the kraton is seen as a microcosm, an architectural representation of
the Javanese universe, then the Dalem Prabasuyasa is the very peak of the
Meru, the world-mountain in Old Javanese mythology and the Wayang plays.
The character of the Prabasuyasa is shown in its geomantic quality of
physical centrality and in its use as the proper environment to control
the sacred and powerful heirlooms that might otherwise cause harm and
destruction as well as in many other ways (Behrend, unpublished:110-25).
II.3 Yogyakarta
The Kraton Kasultanan was founded about ten years after the Kraton
Kasunan (A.D. 1755), and is virtually identical with it. _» One interest-
difference is the "reversed polarity" of the Yogya kraton. After the
splitting of the kingdom, the palace organization of Yogyakarta was re-
35
a.
1
-
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A
c
1 f
k
V
Q
a.
1I.4 Mataram
Remains of Mataram1 s seventeenth century capitals at Kutha Gedhe,
Kerta, and Plered have all but disappeared.24 in the few places where
brickwork is preserved, it is constantly threatened by scavengers who, as
at Plered, have made an enterprise of either recycling the bricks whole,
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11.5 Pajang
As with Kutha Gedhe, the mid-sixteenth century kraton of Pajang has
left very few remains. A recent "archaeological survey (17 July-6 August
1980) was carried out at this site, and several noteworthy artifacts were
unearthed, despite the very limited scope of the exacations. Among these
finds was the head a small terracotta statue that bears a striking re-
semblance to terracotta and stone statuary of the Trawulan/Majapahit style
(Ambary, 1983).
1I.6 Cirebon
There are four kratons in Cirebon, two major and two minor. The
most important of these, the Kraton Kasepuhan, or Palace of the Senior
Sultan, is also the oldest. Its foundation dates to 1529. The second
major palace is the Kanoman, or Palace of the Junior Sultan, established in
1622. The two minor palaces are the Kraton Kacirebonan and Kraton
Kaprabon. Whether these are actually kraton or not is unclear to me.
They may be simply t-stana, or palaces lacking in the full cosmological
symbolism of the kraton proper. In this case they would be comparable to
the Istana Mangkunagaran in Surakarta, which is built on the plan of a
kabupaten residence. 5
o
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00
00
Fig.2. 4
Fig.3.
38
1I.7 Banten
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III. TAMAN 2 7
III,1 General
Among the originally, numerous, but now mostly lost, architectural
products of the Islamic courts of Java were the diverse taman3 or pleasure
gardens. As in other garden traditions of the archipelago, notably at
Aceh (Lombard:-967:127-39), Malacca, Sunda, Bali, and Lombok (Lombard,
1969:135-41), the royal gardens of Java exhibited certain unusual features
that distinguised them from common parks in the modern sense. Besides the
expected complement of flowering and fruit-bearing plants, the royal
gardens also usually had some sort of waterworks and an artificial hill, a
tower or some other type of mountain symbol. Frequently the mountain was
represented as a building at the centre of a pool, and as such was called
a bale karribang3 or floating pavilion. In fact, an important common
feature of the architecturally divergent Javanese taman is their regular
39
111.5 Baleretna
A single source gives a bare description of a garden, similar to
those at Cirebon, lying within the walls of the Kraton Kasunanan
(Zimmerman, 1919:320). The Baleretna, meaning Jewel Pavilion, flanks the
east side of the Dalem Vvabasuyasa, mentioned above as the central and
most sacred structure of the palace. It is difficult to decipher
Zimmerman's diagram, and no further enlightenment is available elsewhere,
but the Baleretna's northern half seems to consist of some sort of square
enclosure (walled field? watery basin?) with an octagonal structure at
its centre. South of this section of the park is the man-made hill
Ngavgapuraj meaning "Mountain of the Capital", with a small pavilion at its
crest. Around the hill are situated several outbuildings for entertain-
ment and sleeping and for storage of the food and refreshment served to
visitors. One of the sleeping chambers is called Ngendraya^ meaning
"Indra's Heaven", the mythological realm of Indra located atop Mt. Meru.
Thus in nomenclature and layout the mountain theme is clearly evident at
Baleretna, while the sea theme is at best unclear, as was the case with
the kraton gardens at Cirebon. The Kraton Kasultanan has no comparable
garden within its walls.
Built between 1758 and 1765, Taman Sari lies just west of the
Kraton Kasultanan. It originally comprised some fifty buildings in a
dozen or more- contiguous walled gardens. The most striking structures
41
IV MESJID
VI.1 General
More scholarship has been devoted to a study of the Javanese mosque
than to any of the other sorts of Islamic antiquities on the island, but
here, as with the kraton3 this has often taken the form of description
rather than interpretation.
The building usually faced east and was surrounded by a wall at some
distance, creating a spacious yard around the mesj-id. This wall was
usually penetrated by a single, inass'ive gate in the east, which often took
the form of a candhi bentar3 or "split-temple gate". The mesjid, like
both the kraton and the taman3 was thus set apart as a sacred place in the
same way as an Old Javanese or Balinese temple. The walls were usually
42
IC No. 35, Nov. Qk
low and were often decorated with designs in relief, with inset plates or
carved medallions, or with decorative, candhi-like ornaments at the corners
and elsewhere.
mosque into several storeys, generally with each storey receding and set
off by a skirting roof. Japara, Surabaya, and Banten were three mosques
in which this structural layering was particularly important. When the
mesjid was divided thus into several different storeys, each floor was used
for a different purpose:36 e.g. the ground floor for the regular Friday
khotbdh; the second floor for those who wished to fulfil their religious
duties in seclusion for a period of months; and the highest floor for the
call to prayer.
Mosques face east, so the surambi is on the east side of the building;
one or two sets of doors lead from it to the mosque's interior. There,
on the west wall, is a niche (mihrab) - sometimes two - indicating the
direction of Mecca, called kiblat.38 The mimbar (a high podium or "sermon
seat") was located in this niche or in the second niche directly adjacent
to the first. It was constructed of wood or brick and was often lavishly
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carved and decorated in styles carried over from pre-Islamic times.
Not far from the Mesjid Agung are the few remains of another sixteenth-
century mosque, somewhat older than the Mesjid Agung itself, called Mesjid
Pacinan. Tinggi. The foundations of this mosque are of both brick and stone.
Beside it are the foundations of a rectangular stone tower. The minarets
at these two unique mosques are somewhat anomalous in the history of
Javanese mosque architecture and have never been satisfactorily explained.
Similar structures, though, are found in the KratonKasultanan (now des-
troyed) and Kraton Kasunanan (Panggung Sanggabuwana) as well as at other
locations.
Several other mosques of some antiquity are also located around the
vicinity of Banten, but no descriptions are available.
The original plan of the mosque was square. The surambi extensions
are later additions. The two-tiered roof is supported by four huge
pillars, the saka gvtru. One of the smaller pillars is a "saka tatal", a
bundle of wooden sections held together by an iron band. The floor of the
mosque is tiled in red terracotta. Both the walls of the mosque and the
mihrab axe. decorated with carved floral patterns similar to those at
Mantingan.
The Mesjid Agung has been repaired and rebuilt several times since
45
One interesting feature of the Mesjid Agung Demak was that its
pawestrerij or women's sanctuary, originally formed a distinct building,
separated from the main sanctuary of the mosque by a narrow corridor
(Brakel and Massarik, 1982:30). The mosque roof was triple-tiered. In-
side, on the rnihrab wall, was a mural of a tortoise, which some have inter-
preted as a chronogram depicting the year A.D. 1478, though this is pro-
bably too early, for the construction of the mosque. Tjandrasasmita
(1976:7) has observed that some features of the Mesjid Agung Demak,
particularly the decorative carving on some gravestones in the mosque
courtyard, are very similar to Cirebon styles.
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art are many and striking, including the gateways, both "split-temple" and
covered (cf. de Haan, 1923), brick size and the technique of bricklaying.
The entire tower looks very much like the lower stages of an East Javanese
aandhi3 or, as has been so frequently noted, a Balinese kulkut tower. At
several points in its walls pottery dishes are inlaid, reminiscent of the
practice in Balinese pura architecture. Inlaid dishes are found in many
early Islamo-Javanese structures, including both mosques and palaces in
Cirebon, and the practice probably derives from the ornamental medallion
work of East Javanese temples.
IV.9 Mantingan
The mosque at Mantingan (south of Japara) was reputedly built around
1555 by Ratu Kalibyamat, widow of the rulei4 of Japara. It is now largely
altered, though one of,its most marellous features has been preserved in
the present structure. Dozens of relief panels in the shape of round or
oblong medallions were saved and set in the walls and pillars of the
restored Mantingan mosque. These reliefs have received a good deal of
attention, and excellent photos of many carved medallions have been pub-
lished. These panels are rich in floral and faunal life and exude the
same vibrant, lively atmosphere as the panel reliefs at Panataran and else-
where in East Java. The Mantingan reliefs are in fact successors to the
East Javanese style. One significant development, due directly to the
effect of Islam, is that no human figures are depicted in any of the
salvaged medallions. Strongly geometric patterns also make their appear-
ance .
The winged gates of Sendhang Dhuwur are the most striking examples of
that form preserved in the whole of Java, and they offer strong evidence
that the world mountain motif, so prominent in the architecture of both
kvaton and taman3 is also reflected in the Javanese mosque (see
Tjandrasasmita, 1964). The multi-tiered roof of many early mosques partakes
47
There are other early mesjid in Central Java. Several of these, in-
cluding the Sumar Gumuling in Taman Sari, the Mesjid Bandengan in the
Kraton Kasunanan, and the Mesjid Watu east of the Alun-alun Lor of the
Kasultanan, have already been mentioned elsewhere in this paper. Other
important mosques, such as those at Tembayat and Kajoran, are sometimes
mentioned in the literature, but I have not been able to find even short
descriptions of them. The Islamic antiquities on inland Central Java
generally seem to have escaped even the desultory attention paid to some
of the pasis-Cr remains. Perhaps the superabundance of Old Javanese temples
in the same area is responsible in part for this omission.
V. CONCLUSION
As mentioned at the outset, the aim of this article has not been to
provided detailed descriptions of individual structures dating from the
Islamic period of Javanese history, but to introduce the general reader to
the number and variety of such buildings. My hope is that such an intro-
duction may help to stir an interest in Javanese architecture and to hint
at the promise that a more serious study might hold for the further elabora-
tion of our knowledge of the cultural, social, and even political history
of Java in the sixteenth to eighteenth centuries. The interest in such
an approach shown by Indonesian scholars, particularly Tjandrasasmita and
Ambary, deserves to become general among Western scholars as well. The
continuing threat to the survival of many artifacts makes their serious
48
NOTES
1. Nor could the Islamic Antiquities section of the OD compete effective-
ly for budget allocations, given "the original aim [of that body]:
namely the restoration and maintenance of Hindu antiquities".
(Oudheidkundige Verslag in Nederlandsch-Indië, 1928:102. Empasis
added.)
2. For examples of these useful publications see the bibliographical
references under Ambary, Inventavisasi, Laporan, and Tjandrasasmita.
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kratons: e.g. it was oriented toward the west and had entrances on
all four sides (Gericke, 1844:62). The kraton at Lengka, as
described in the Arjunawijaya, likewise had four portals (Supomo,
1977:50-51).
17. The description below is based primarily on the following sources:
Behrend, unpublished; Blumberger, 1917; Penjelasan, 1979; Pigeaud,
1930; Prodjosujitno, 1956; Soewito Santoso, 1973; Zimmerman, 1919.
18. On this flame, see de Graaf, 1954:10 and Schrieke, 1924.
19. On the sekar wijaya kusuma, see Tiknopranoto, n.d.[a].
20. The ampilen dalam were a collection of heirlooms, including certain
weapons, ornamental sirih-sets, standards, and other items regularly
carried behind the king whenever he appeared in state. See van den
Berg, 1901:78.
21. At Surakarta the upacara consisted of eight figures cast in precious
metals and embellished with rare stones and gems. They were always
carried before the king when he appeared in state. The figures
included a cock, a crowned naga, a goose, a roe deer, a garuda, two
elephants, and a bull. See van den Berg, 1901:78; Deeleman, 1859,
especially the plates; and Rouffaer, 1932:528 ff.
22. Descriptions of the Kraton Kasultanan are contained in Adam, 1940[a,b];
Behrend, unpublished; Brongtodiningrat, 1978; Hadiatmadja, n.d.;
Pigeaud, 1940; Soerjadiningrat, 1925; Struktur, 1979-80.
23. See Behrend, unpublished:65, n.153, for a more specific delineation
of the various sorts of "mirror imaging" in the reconstruction of the
Javanese state under the hegemony of Yogyakarta.
24. For descriptions of these kraton see Adrisijanti, unpublished[c];
Laporan survai, 1978.
25. On the palaces of Cirebon, see Ambary, 1982; Inventarisasi, 1972;OV
1918:53-56; 1928:103; 1930:50-58; Perquin, 1928; Tjandrasasmita,
1975[a]; 1976:8-10; 1982:136-39.
26. Descriptions of the Kraton Surasowan and other palace ruins in Banten
are found in van der Chijs, 1881; Laporan penelitian, 1978; Muhammad,
1977; Tjandrasasmita, 1982:124-27; van de Wall, n.d.
27. Lombard, 1969, is a wide ranging and thorough essay on Javanese
"pleasure gardens", and the following discussion borrows heavily from
it.
50
34. Several, though, such as the very early mosque at Banten and 'the
eighteenth-century Sumur Gumuling at Yogyakarta, were round towers
without an architecturally distinctive basement. Both of these
mosques were actually towers of a European sort adapted to Javanese
religious needs.
35. On Javanese domestic architecture, see Amidjaja, 1924; Arsitektur,
1977; Rouffaer, 1932.
36. See de Graaf, 1947:289-307. De Graaf also observes that such tower-
mosques are found not only in Java, but in such widely separated
regions as North Sumatera and Ternate. In the latter case, it is
likely that Java was the inspiration for the building style. Java in
turn may have borrowed the form from Sumatera.
3 7 . See Pijper, 1947:278. Today, of course, a more universal style pre-
dominates and the minaret is common. In fact, some modernist congre-
gations, increasingly conscious of the originality of the Javanese and
other Indonesian styles of religious architecture, are hurrying to
bring their local structures into conformity with the international,
modern style. Too many renovations of old mosques accomplish nothing
but the destruction of irreplaceable cultural monuments. See Tempo,
23 September 1978 and 10 February 1982, for articles on this issue.
38. Modern mosques are turned about 30 degrees to the north-west, the
true kiblat, and are no longer aligned east-west (Adrisijanti, un-
published[a]:2). The Mesjid Agung Cirebon is the one old mosque in
which the orientation of the mihrab is to the north-west.
39. Sources on the mosques of Banten are Laporan penelitian, 1978;
Tjandrasasmita, 1982: II, 122-23; van de Wall, n.d:11.
40. More complete descriptions are found in Ambary, 1982:82-85;
Inventarisasi, 1972:138; Tjandrasasmita, 1976:9.
41. It is likely that the date given in the Babad tanah Jawi, A.D. 1506,
accurately records when the mosque was founded.
42. See the complementary descriptions of de Haan, 1922-23:11, 67, and
Lombard, 1972. See also plates A28 and A29 in vol. III (Platen album)
of de Haan.
43. Descriptions and photos of the Menara Kudus are in Bernet Kempers,
1959:104-05, and Tjandrasasmita, 1976:7; 1982:II, 100-01.
44. Sources on Majitingan include Bernet Kempers, 1959:106; 07, 1930:53-58;
51
IC No. 35, Nov. dh
Steinmann, 1934; Tjandrasasmita, 1982;102-05.
45. Sendhang Dhuwur is the most fully described Javanese mosque and the
only Islamic antiquity treated in monograph length (Tjandrasasmita,
1975[b]. See also Bernet Kempers, 1959:105-06 and Tjandrasasmita,
1964.
REFERENCES
Volkenkunde
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Jogjakarta. Djawa, XX, 185-205.
Adam, L. 1940[b]. Eenige correcties op mijn artikel over de Kraton
van Jogjakarta. Djawa, XX, 347.
Adrisijanti, Inajati. Unpublished[a]. Beberapa jenis kepurbakalaan
Islam di Indonesia. CWritten 1978.]
Adrisijanti, Inajati. Unpublished[b]. Beberapa kepurbakalaan Islam di
Java Timur. Unpublished paper. [Written 1978.]
Adrisijanti, Inajati. Unpublished[c]. Laporan penelitian arkeologi di
Plered. [Date unknown.]
Ambary, Hasan Muarif. 1982. Historical monuments. Cerbon. Jakarta.
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(Java Tengah). Archipel, 75-84.
Amidjaja, Sastra. 1924. Het bouven van Javaansche huizen. Djawa, IV,
105-13.
Arsitektur. 1977. Arsitektur rumah Java. Bunga Rampai Adat Istiadat,
IV, 79-128.
Behrend, T. E. Unpublished. Kraton and cosmos in traditional Java.
[M.A. thesis. University of Wisconsin - Madison, 1983.]
Berg, L. W. C. van den. 1901. De Mohammedaansche vorsten in Nederlandsoh-
Indië. s'Gravenhage: Martinus Nijhoff.
Bernet Kempers, A. J. 1959. Ancient Indonesian art. Cambridge, Mass:
Harvard University Press.
Blumberger, J. T. P. 1917. In en om den Kraton te Soerkarta.
Nederlandsoh-Indie Oud en Nieuw, II, 39-46.
Bosboom, H. D. H. 1902. Een bezoek aan eenige tempelruïnen in Midden
Java in 1791. BKI, LIV, 581-90.
Brakel, L. F., and Massarik, H. 1982. A note on the Panjunan Mosque in
Cirebon. Arohipel, 23, 119-34.
Brandes, J. 1894. Yogyakarta. TBG, XXXVII, 415-48.
Brongtodiningrat, K. P. H. 1978. Arti Kraton Yogyakarta. [Translated
by R. Murdani,] Yogakarta.
52
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