BGMEA UNIVERSITY OF FASHION &

TECHNOLOGY (BUFT)

Assignment on
Shrinkage
Course Title: Testing of Textile
Course Code: TEX-2203

Submitted To: Submitted by:

Ms. Sumi Akter Nasir Uddin
Lecturer ID: 172-116-0-145
(BUFT) Batch : 172, AMT-3

Date of Submission: 5th January, 2020

Shrinkage:

Shrinkage (In fabric) is a parameter of testing textile fabrics to measure changes in

length and width after washing. Shrinkage failing materials are dimensionally
unstable and they can cause deforming of the garments or products made out of
those materials. Shrinkage is tested at various stages, but most importantly before
cutting the fabric into further sewn products and after cutting and sewing prior to
supplying the products to buyers and end users. It is a required parameter of quality
control to ensure the sizes of the products to avoid any complaints regarding
deformation or change in dimensions after domestic laundry. The tests are
conducted with provided specifications of buyers imitating the same conditions
like washing cycle time, temperature and water ratio and fabric load and
sometimes top loading and front loading washing machines are chosen to
authenticate the test and assurance of the results. This procedure provides standard
and alternate home laundering conditions using an automatic washing machine.
While the procedure includes several options, it is not possible to include every
existing combination of laundering parameters. The test is applicable to all fabrics
and end products suitable for home laundering.

Types of shrinkage

Shrinkage is a change in dimensions across the length and width of the fabric after
washing, usage and when exposed to relaxing of fabrics. Mainly shrinkage is of
two types one is minus shrinkage and other is plus shrinkage. Skew (twisting of the
vertical grains) is also observed along with shrinkage. Abnormal twisting is also
considered as a non-conformity.

1. Contraction: Any noticeable decrease in dimensions is known as

Contraction(minus) shrinkage.
 2. Expansion: Any noticeable increase or expansion in dimension is known as
Expansion (plus) shrinkage.

Test methods:

The different test methods are used as per the final destination of the product
(Europe, U.S.A., etc) and the expected washing or laundry methods in practice.
Mainly I.S.O. and AATCC standards are used for shrinkage testing. There are few
brands which are customizing the test method as per their quality norms. Test
Method(s):

Shrinkage measuring template, scale and marker

 AATCC Test Method 135

 AATCC Test Method 150
 ISO 6330
 CAN/CGSB 58

AATCC Test Method 135, Dimensional Change of Fabrics After Home

Laundering Scope: Determines the dimensional changes of garments when
subjected to home laundering procedures used by consumers. The method is for
fabric not yet made into a garment. A sample is marked with benchmarks before
home laundering. Then it is laundered 3 times total, then the benchmarks are
measured again. Before and after laundering benchmarks are compared.

AATCC Test Method 150, Dimensional Change of Fabrics After Home

Laundering Scope: Determines the dimensional changes of garments when
subjected to home laundering procedures used by consumers.
Measurement of Shrinkage:

 Test specimen and equipment:

 Sample size: outsdie = (50x50) cm and inside= (35x35)cm
 Method: ISO 6330: 2001 2A/5A
 Equipment used: Washing machine (Rota Wash)
 Washing at 40∘C x 41mins. As per care label code.

Working Procedure:

The sample which is done shrinkage test, spread on table. Then a glass template
put on sample fabric which is square size. There are six mark on glass template and
distance between two mark is 35 cm. Marking the sample fabric by unchangeable
marker. Then sample is sewn by hand sewing machine. Sample is ready for
washing. Simple wash the fabric at 60˚c temp for 90 min. after washing the fabric
is taken out. Dry the sample as per any of the method. It can either be Line Dry or
Flat Dry or Tumble Dry. To find the dimensional change read the
Shrinkage/Stretch on 3 points on the Wrap side and 3 points on Weft Side. Get the
mean value of wrap-wise and weft wise readings to get the Accurate Shrinkage or
Stretch.

Shrinkage calculation:
  31.5cm
Width =35cm
Length =35cm 31cm
 
30.8cm
 

31.5+31+30.8
After test: Inside measurement = = 31.1cm
3
 𝐵𝑒𝑓𝑜𝑟𝑒 𝑤𝑎𝑠ℎ−𝐴𝑓𝑡𝑒𝑟 𝑊𝑎𝑠ℎ
Shrinkage = x 100
𝐵𝑒𝑓𝑜𝑟𝑒 𝑤𝑎𝑠ℎ

35−31.1
= x 100
35

= 11.14%

Importance of Shrinkage

Shrinkage has great importance because any expansion or shrinkage can deform
the product which could be a serious concern for end-user and brand can lose its
reputation.

Shrinkage controlling methods

There are various procedures to minimize the residual shrinkage of the fabrics, it
begins with right selection of yarn count or denier to achieve particular g.s.m
(Grams per square meters),Right selection of tightness factor of loops (which is
called loop length then chemical procedures like mercerizing of cotton, Resin of
cotton in case of woven materials, Pre-heat-setting and post-heat setting of
synthetic and blended fabrics( Heat setting is a thermal process taking place
mostly in either a steam atmosphere or a dry heat environment. The effect of the
process gives fibers, yarns or fabric dimensional stability). Finishing on machines
like aphorizing Mechanical shrinking (sometimes referred to as anodizing),
whereby the fabric is forced to shrink width and/or lengthwise, creates a fabric in
which any residual tendency to shrink after subsequent laundering is minimal
compacting machines. For wool garments, shrinkage is due to scales on the fibers
which heat, water and agitation cause to stick together. Other fabrics are stretched
by mechanical forces during production, and can shrink slightly when heated
(though to a lesser degree than wool). Some clothes are shrunk in the factory to
avoid this problem.
Problem of Shrinkage:

Fabric shrinkage can cause problems in two main areas, either during garment
manufacturing or during subsequent laundering by the ultimate customer.

 At various stage during garment manufacturing, the fabric is pressed in a

steam press such as a Hoffman press where it is subjected to steam for a
short period while being held between the upper and lower platens of the
press.
 Laundering is a more vigorous process than pressing and it usually involves
mechanical agitation, hot water and detergent. Tumble drying can also affect
the shrinkage as the material is wet at the beginning of the drying process,
the material being agitated while heated until it is dry. Dry cleaning involves
appropriate solvents and agitation; the solvents are not absorbed by the fires
so they do not swell or affect the properties of the fibers. This reduces some
of the problems that occur during wet cleaning processes.