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Automatic Seam Ripping System

Article · January 2019

DOI: 10.1016/j.promfg.2019.02.015

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 Available online at www.sciencedirect.com
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ScienceDirect
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Availableonline
onlineatatwww.sciencedirect.com
www.sciencedirect.com
ScienceDirect
ScienceDirect
Procedia ScienceDirect 
Manufacturing 00 (2018) 000–000
Procedia Manufacturing 00 (2018) 000–000 www.elsevier.com/locate/procedia
Procedia Manufacturing 30 (2019) 98–105 www.elsevier.com/locate/procedia
Procedia Manufacturing 00 (2017) 000–000
www.elsevier.com/locate/procedia
14th Global Congress on Manufacturing and Management (GCMM-2018)
14th Global Congress on Manufacturing and Management (GCMM-2018)
Automatic Seam Ripping System
Automatic Seam Ripping System
Manufacturing Engineering
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National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi-11016
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National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi-11016
Costing models for capacity optimization in Industry 4.0: Trade-off
Abstract
Abstract between used capacity and operational efficiency
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ripping value.
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issuggest
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be competitive.
study to reduce
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optimization time andmodels
and costing further is increase efficiencyresearch
an important and productivity
topic that which helps
deserves
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contributions from to bothbe competitive.
the practical and theoretical perspectives. This paper presents and discusses a mathematical
© 2018 The Authors. Published by Elsevier Ltd.
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Keywords:Automatic Ripping; PublishedImageby Elsevier B.V.
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Peer-review under responsibility
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1. Introduction
1. Introduction
Keywords: Cost Models; ABC; TDABC; Capacity Management; Idle Capacity; Operational Efficiency
Garment Industry works on assembly line production method breaking the whole process into multiple activities. It
Garment Industry works
is a labour-intensive on assembly
industry producingline items
production method where
of clothing, breaking the whole the
maintaining process intoquality
desired multiple activities.
level is a bigIt
is a labour-intensive
challenge. industry producing items of clothing, where maintaining the desired quality level
The major contributors to the defect list are a) seam defects b) cuts and damages c) staining d) foreign
1. Introduction is a big
challenge. The major
particles. Seam defectscontributors
frequency isto92%
the of
defect list are
the total a) seam
defects defects
occurring as b) cuts and
internal damages
failure. Somec)ofstaining d) foreign
the common
particles. Seam defects frequency is 92% of the total defects occurring as internal failure. Some of the
The cost of idle capacity is a fundamental information for companies and their management of extreme importance common
*corresponding
in modern author: +91-11-26542164
production systems. In general, it is defined as unused capacity or production potential and can be measured
*corresponding
email: panghaldeepak@gmail.com; deepak.panghal@nift.ac.in
author: +91-11-26542164
in several ways: tons of production,
email: panghaldeepak@gmail.com; available hours of manufacturing, etc. The management of the idle capacity
deepak.panghal@nift.ac.in
* Paulo Afonso. Tel.: +351 253 510 761; fax: +351 253 604 741
E-mail address: psafonso@dps.uminho.pt
2351-9789 © 2018 The Authors. Published by Elsevier Ltd.
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10.1016/j.promfg.2019.02.015
 Abhilasha Singh et al. / Procedia Manufacturing 30 (2019) 98–105 99
Singh, et al. / Procedia Manufacturing 00 (2018) 000–000

seam defects are wavy seam, unbalanced seam, run-off stitch, slip stitch etc. [1] Majority of rework is done by
undoing the seam. The contribution of rework time is generally 8-14% of total Standard Allowed Minute (SAM) of
the garment. Cost of rejection is much more than cost of rework as the fabric which constitutes 60%-70% of the
total cost also gets wasted with the rejected garment. To save fabric and make the garment acceptable rework needs
to be done [2] Seam ripping is an important operation in garment industry that cannot be overlooked. Some
industries have a dedicated ‘Alteration Operator’ while others may have a separate department for alteration. There
can be three reasons which contribute to undoing a seam:

 Mistakes by the sewing operator

 Change in the buyer requirement
 ENVA in certain products: Removal of in-process stitching which is not a part of the final product

The cross-sectional view of a typical superimposed seam with single needle lockstitch is depicted in Fig.1. The seam
consists of two plies of fabric, sandwiched by a needle thread covering the top surface of the upper ply and bobbin
thread covering the bottom surface of the lower ply. Standard stitch length is 2.5 mm which goes up to 5mm.’h1’ is
the thickness of thread, ‘h2’ is the thickness of stitched plies,’h3’ is the thickness of the seam and ‘h4’ is the
thickness of unstitched plies. ‘h2’ is slightly less than ‘h4’ owing to the compression due to stitching. ‘h1’ is less
than ‘h3’ e.g. 120 ticket number is used in making 150 GSM cotton dress shirt. Diameter of 80 ticket core-spun
polyester thread is 0.15 mm i.e. ‘h1’, and ‘h3’ is 0.75mm.

Fig. 1: Anatomy of seam

Manual ripping of the seam is the most prevalent method in garment industry. For the purpose of manually undoing
of the seam, a mechanical device namely “Seam Ripper” is used. The manual ripper which is currently in use by
garment manufacturers got patented in 1973 by Herman Ament, New York for Boyd Needle Company.[3] Presently,
this seam ripper is widely used for manual seam ripping, in garment industry, with some design changes. The ripper
has double pointed fork with a curved blade at the Y-junction which cuts through the thread. Some of the notable
inventions in manual seam ripping device is depicted in Fig. 2.

a) Hendrick’s Seam Ripper b) Beavin’s Seam Ripper c) Ament’s Seam Ripper d) Fogg’s Seam Ripper,
US114815 (1871) US2370440A (1944) USD225700S (1973) US3972117A (1975)
Fig. 2: Journey of manual seam ripping devices

Despite the ripper being existent, the common practice in garment industry is to use ‘Thread Trimmer’ as the
operators can use it as a trimmer for loose threads as well as ripper for removing the stitch. Use of trimmers for
ripping purpose can pose a threat to the fabric, as the risk of fabric being accidently cut is high contrary to rippers.

2. Literature Review
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100 Abhilasha Singh et al. / Procedia Manufacturing 30 (2019) 98–105
Singh, et al. / Procedia Manufacturing 00 (2018) 000–000

The manual ripping process is time consuming process. Singh et.al. (2018) conducted a study using predetermined
motion and time system (PMTS) in a garment industry in Delhi NCR for 60 samples and found that the seam which
took only 6 seconds to be made by a sewing operator, took 71 seconds in ripping it manually using trimmer by a
dedicated alteration operator. The operator did several hand motions like picking, cutting, tugging, stretching and
pulling which are lot to be taken by any fabric. Consequently, the fabric suffers the damages like needle hole
enlargement, fraying ends, tearing, seam distortion etc. [4]

Different automation approaches developed and adopted by the researchers have been studied in detail. An effort
towards developing a semi-automatic seam ripping device was made by Jack Rogers in form of an attachment for
sewing machines. The apparatus consists of a yoke at the end of the stationary horizontal arm which gets fixed with
the presser foot screw mounted on the pressure foot bar. Ripping action is created by the two edges of the oscillating
knife and the v shaped cutter. [5] However, no evidence has been found regarding complete automation of the seam
ripping system which necessitates the requirement of research in automation in other fields which can be
implemented in seam ripping. Different technologies have shown their significant role in garment and similar
industries for automation of various processes.

Role of image processing in fabric fault identification has been established by various researchers in the field of
textiles. The basic principle behind fabric fault identification is discontinuity in the pattern of the fabric. The same
principle can be applied to stitches on fabric as well. Fabric inspection has been fully automated by using image
processing techniques. Computer programs developed in platforms like MATLAB ® or OpenCV® identify and
classify the defects in warp and weft by employing various techniques of image. Introduction of image processing
and AI in fabric inspection has reduced the dependency on human skills and experience by increasing accuracy and
bringing down the time taken. [6] Digital image processing techniques are employed in analysing and evaluating the
appearance and characteristics of yarn and other textile materials. [7]

With the advancement in technology apparel industry has started using techniques like virtual reality and augmented
reality to give the best user experience. Manual measuring techniques are being replaced by 3D body scanning to
save time and obtain precise measurement of human body. This enables quick real time translation of data collected
into desired output. [8] A research done on Fabrics Fault Processing Using Image Processing Technique in
MATLAB® 9.0 aims at identifying the location and type of fabric defect using digital image processing. Acquiring
the digital image of the fabric and converting into binary image by restoration and thresholding technique.
Histogram shows the probability distribution of the variable (pixels) (pattern recognition). Output of the histogram
classifies the type of defect. MATLAB® 9.0 is used for implementation.[9]

Researchers working on fabric inspection system using artificial neural networks have devised the fabric fault
identification process which involves image acquisition, grayscale image, filtering, histogram processing,
segmentation, noise removal, feature extraction, neural network and output. Methods of image acquisition can be
Laser Ranging Systems, Structured Light Methods, Moire Fringe Methods, Shape from Shading Methods Active
and Passive Stereoscopic Methods. Segmentation partitions the image based on homogeneous pixels. Feature
extraction for capturing visual content of images for indexing & retrieval. Database with defective and defect free
fabrics taken from Manual of Standard Fabric Defects in the textile Industry.[10] A technique involving
morphological operation in Bit plane is used by the researchers Tiwari and Sharma for automatic identification of
fabric faults. According to their process Pre-processed image is decomposed into its bit planes. Exact location is
found by weighted morphology. The MATLAB® function bwperim is used to obtain the outline of the defect. [11]
Laser finds its application in apparel industry in various ways. The unidirectional properties of rays make laser very
powerful and enable it to perform wide variety of tasks such as surface identification, depth analysis and alignment,
burning, etching complex designs on single or multi layered fabric etc. Burning action of laser is employed in
departments like cutting, embroidery and printing for precise cutting with clean finish. Usually CO2 laser with
power ranging from 20 W to 80 W is used for cutting in garment industry. Logo making has become faster and more
convenient with the help of laser cutting machines. Laser fading has created a revolution in denim industry. It
eliminates the use of water and chemicals like acid. The laser beam decomposes the dye to achieve the effect of
fading. Laser engraving is most commonly used for t-shirt printing and logo making in garment. The clear and
precise engraving ensures accuracy even for the designs of smaller dimensions. [12]
3
 Singh, et al. / Procedia Manufacturing 00 (2018) 000–000
Abhilasha Singh et al. / Procedia Manufacturing 30 (2019) 98–105 101

An invention of apparatus and method for laser etching wear patterns into denim pants was patented by Ellis
Corporation of the United States in 2003. The method is to replace tradition stone washing for obtaining faded and
worn out look in denim jeans. Desired pre-programmed and accurate pattern can be achieved using this method.[13]
Another research on method of laser etching on cloth by Revolaze was patented in 2015. The method is used to
impart design or pattern by Laser on fabric surface with good hand feel. This economical process can replace the
high cost methods of surface decoration like weaving, embossing, embroidering, and silk screening.[14]

Based on literature review, it can be concluded that there is not much research effort has been done to develop an
automatic seam ripping system. It is realised that with the available technologies in the domain like image
processing, laser burning, CNC etc. an intelligent seam ripping system can be developed. To fill the gap and to
address the industry need, the research work is carried out to develop a system namely Automatic Seam Ripping
System (ASRS). This paper is a representation of the research carried out towards development of ASRS.

3 Automatic Seam Ripping System (ASRS)

An automatic seam ripping system (ASRS) consist of 03 sub-systems namely a) Stitch Identification System (SIS),
b) Coordinate Generation System (CGS), and c) Laser-based Ripping System (LRS) is developed. Each subsystem
consists of various modules, as depicted in Fig. 3.

Fig. 3: Organisation of Automatic Seam Ripping System (ASRS)

The ASRS is developed on the platform of MATLAB® and integrated with LASERGRBL®, an open source
software, for coordinate generation. All the 03 subsystems along with the module are discussed below:-
a) Stitch Identification System (SIS) is developed to identify the unwanted stitch using image processing approach.
The SIS consists of 02 modules namely:-
i) Image acquisition (IA) module uses Logitech C615 HD 8MP webcam to capture the image.
ii) Image processing (IP) module identifies the unwanted stitch on the fabric.

The process completes in six steps. Firstly, to remove the unwanted information from the acquired 24-bit RGB
image it is converted into 8-bit grayscale image. Further to identify the region of interest the grayscale is converted
into binary image. In this step all the pixels of the image with luminance greater than the given level is assigned the
value 1 i.e. white and all other pixels are given the value 0 i.e. black. Filtering technique is used to remove certain
features using operations like smoothening, sharpening and edge enhancement and noise removal. In the next step
the detection of edge is done using principle of brightness discontinuity using the algorithm Sobel.[15] The objects
identified other than the stitch is removed using noise removal approach. Finally, ‘Closing’ is a function of
morphology used to close small holes in the identified objects. It enlarges the area of the object by assigning similar
values to the neighbourhood pixels with respect to the pixel identified in edge detection.

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102 Abhilasha Singh et al. / Procedia Manufacturing 30 (2019) 98–105
Singh, et al. / Procedia Manufacturing 00 (2018) 000–000

Both the modules are integrated in nature and developed on the platform of MATLAB®. The output of the SIS is an
image consisting of white stitch line with black background. The developed SIS system is capable to handle the
variability in fabric, stitching pattern and colour of thread. Execution of SIS on a sample fabric of white colour
stitched with white colour thread is depicted in Fig.4.

Fig. 4: Execution of SIS on white colour fabric stitched white colour thread

b) Coordinate Generation System (CGS) is developed for generating the trajectory/contour of the unwanted stitch
line in the form of G-code. It consists of one module namely G-code generation (GG) module. Open source software
is used for this purpose. The parameters like burning type, speed of laser head, laser power modulation, and spindle
speed are optimized based on the type of fabric and thread. The output of the CGS for a sample fabric of white
colour stitched with white colour thread is depicted in Fig. 5.

Fig. 5: Execution of CGS on white colour fabric stitched white colour thread

c) Laser-based Ripping System (LRS) is a combination of i) CNC module, and b) ii) Laser-based burning (LB)
module that works simultaneously based on the instructions generated by GG module. The CNC system consists of
various electro mechanical parts like microcontroller, motor drivers, steeper motor, shaft, pulleys and bearings for
execution of input received from CGS. The laser system consists of laser and various mounting accessories. The
LRS system is capable to move in X, Y direction automatically. The Z direction movement is used for adjustment of
focal length of laser base on the anatomy of seam. The execution of LRS on the sample fabric of white colour
stitched with white colour thread is depicted in Fig. 6. The thread on the upper ply is burnt by the laser action and
the residue can be removed either by scraping off or by peeling of both the plies apart.

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 Abhilasha Singh et al. / Procedia Manufacturing 30 (2019) 98–105 103
Singh, et al. / Procedia Manufacturing 00 (2018) 000–000

Thread on the upper

ply burnt by laser

Burned thread
removed manually

Fig. 6: Execution of Laser-based Ripping System (LRS)

The ASRS detail and actual model with component nomenclature is depicted in Fig. 7. The parts like motor mount,
base top and bottom for bearing and shafts, z-stage and face for holding the laser are designed in CAD software and
manufactured using FDM based 3D printing technology. The material used for manufacturing of 3D printed parts is
PLA (Polylactic Acid) and ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene).

Fig. 7: Automatic seam ripping system (ASRS)

4. Testing and findings

The developed ASRS is tested for a sample size of 30 nos. Detail specification of fabric, thread and stitching
parameter is tabulated in Table 1 and the same no. of samples is done by manual ripping process. After undoing of
seam, manual ripping samples are compared with ASRS samples on the parameters of a) Visual appearance, b) time
study, c) tensile strength, and d) cost.

Table 1. Specification of fabric, thread and stitching parameter of sample

Fabric Specification Thread Specifications Stitching parameters
Fibre content 100 % Cotton Type Core Spun Poly Machine SNLS
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104 Abhilasha Singh et al. / Procedia Manufacturing 30 (2019) 98–105
Singh, et al. / Procedia Manufacturing 00 (2018) 000–000

Construction Plain weave Composition 100% Polyester Stitch type 301

EPI 66 Ticket number 80 Stitch length 2.5 mm
PPI 54 Thickness 0.15 mm Thread Tension 70 cN
GSM 187 Colour White, Black Needle size DBX1 (dia.0.9 mm)

1.1. Visual appearance

The visual appearance of a manual ripped sample and the one via ASRS is depicted in Fig. 8. During manual
process it has been observed that diameter of needle hole enlargement goes up to 1.5 mm even though the needle
diameter is of 0.9mm. On the other hand in ASRS process, the chances of fabric damage and seam distortion due to
human/physical handling are eliminated. Since laser used is of low power and very precise and the beam does not
reach the fabric underneath the thread, hence no burn mark is visible on the fabric.

Fig. 8: Visual appearance of sample after undoing of seam via manual and ASRS method a) manual method b) ASRS method

1.2. Seam ripping time study

For cotton fabric, 2.5 mm stitch length, 8” superimposed seam length, 80 ticket core-spun polyester thread, the
average time taken by an operator to rip the seam manually is 71 seconds for 30 sample while by ASRS at a feed
rate of 1000 mm/min is 12.2 seconds. The time taken in manual seam ripping process and by ASRS for a sample of
30 as depicted in Fig. 8. is less than 83% of the time taken in manual ripping of an 8” superimposed lockstitch seam.

Fig. 9: Seam ripping time study manual vs. ASRS

1.3. Tensile strength

The post ripping tensile strength for on- grain side and off-grain side is calculated as per ASTM code no 5034-09
(2017). The post ripping tensile strength of 30 samples ripped using manual and ASRS approach is depicted in Fig.
10.The average tensile strength of 30 samples for on-grain side for manual ripping is identified as 17.4 N/m2 and for
ASRS is 17.2 N/m2. The average tensile strength of 30 samples for off-grain side for manual ripping is identified as
17.9 N/m2 and for ASRS is 17.8 N/m2.

1.4. Cost

The cost of manual ripping process for 2400 nos. of pieces each having 8” length is apx.50.3 USD. It is based on
consideration that wages of semi skilled operator is apx. 08 USD/day in Delhi, India and a total 06 nos. of operator
are required for said no. of pieces in manual ripping. On the other hand the operational cost incurred for ripping
2400 nos. of pieces each having 8” length is apx. 9.4 USD by ASRS. It is based on the consideration that electricity
charges are 0.11USD/kWh and wages of skilled operator is apx. 9.3 USD/day in Delhi, India.
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 Abhilasha Singh et al. / Procedia Manufacturing 30 (2019) 98–105 105
Singh, et al. / Procedia Manufacturing 00 (2018) 000–000

Fig. 10: Tensile strength for seam ripping a) Tensile Strength On-Grain manual vs ASRS b) Tensile Strength On-Grain manual vs ASRS

5. Conclusion
ASRS can be adopted by garment industry as it saves time and manual labour without compromising with the
quality as compared with manual ripping. The cost can also be saved up to 81%. Image processing makes it easy to
recognise the thread and generate the location of the stitch so that the machine does not burn the fabric. The system
has a scope of incorporating more features and making it universal for majorly used fabrics, seams and stitches. The
system could be intelligent enough to identify the process parameters according to the fabric, seam and thread and
find out the coordinates of the undesirable stitches. This machine would have the potential to get commercialised in
the garment industry as it would be relevant for most of apparel products which are manufactured in the industry.

References:
[1] Ament H, inventor; Seam Ripper.US patent no. 225700. 1973 Jan 2.
[2] Banumathi P Nasira PB, Fabric Inspection System using Artificial Neural Networks International Journal of Computer
Engineering Science (IJCES); 2012; 2:5 p. 20-27.
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