FINISHING CARPENTRY

RESEARCH PAPERS

HERSON C. DISTARA
Student

ARLIE G. FRESNIDO
Course Instructor
RESEARCH TOPICS:
1. Finishing Carpentry
a. When it comes to woodwork, the finishing touches can make all the difference,
and that’s where finish carpentry comes in. Finish carpentry involves all the
carpentry performed at the end of a building project.
http://www.mahoganyinc.com/blog/millwork/what-is-finish-carpentry/

b. Tools and Equipment used

 Scribing tool
- The scribing tool is going to allow
you to easily scribe cabinet trim,
countertops, tile, and much more.
This can ensure that your cuts will
turn out perfectly and will generally
make your life a lot easier.
 Tape measure
- be able to measure things out
accurately in order to avoid costly
mistakes. The most convenient tool
for you to purchase will
undoubtedly be a tape measure.
 Wood Rasps/Files
- This is very convenient for storing
the tools when they aren’t in use. If
you are going to be working on
cabinets, then having these wood
rasps around is going to be a must.
You will find a use for them most
assuredly and you will be glad to
have them around.
 Door and Board Lifter
- This door and board lifter is a cost-
effective way to lift doors, panels,
and drywall. It is strong enough to
support one-hundred and sixty-five
pounds of weight, so you can tell
that it is very sturdy. You can
activate this tool with your foot, so
it’s convenient to use when your
hands are busy at work. It can even
rotate 360 degrees, so it is truly a
versatile must-have tool.
 Multi-Tool Screwdriver
- This screwdriver allows you to
change out the bits to match
whatever needs that you have at
the time. You can attach a
flathead bit when you need it
and then change it out for
something else. There are long
screwdriver bits and short bits for
use in tight spaces.
 Claw Hammer
- Claw hammers are among the
most common types of tools on
the market. You can buy a claw
hammer at pretty much any
department store. They are
affordable tools that will see a lot
of use. The claw hammer being
shown here is pretty standard
overall, featuring a durable steel
head and a wooden handle.
 Chisel
- A chisel is another tool that is
going to be invaluable when you
work as a finish carpenter. You
need to be able to use a chisel to
finish up many projects. It can be
an important tool for removing tile
and it is also important in
woodworking projects. This tool is
fairly versatile, making it
something that will come in
handy during many jobs.
 Utility Knife
- A common tool that carpenters
will keep around. When it comes
to finishing carpentry, you will
need to be able to make cuts
when installing certain things. You
also may want to have the utility
knife around to simply open
certain packages. It’s a tool that
is undeniably useful and simple to
purchase.
 End Cutting Pliers
- This tool will allow you to easily
cut wires and it can help you to
trim plastic parts as well. You’ll
run into several situations where
having a good pair of end
cutting pliers will prove to be
essential. These should be a
regular part of your toolkit so that
you’ll be prepared when the
need arises.
 Marking Gauge
- A marking gauge will help you to
mark off pieces of wood that you
are working on. When you are
trying to finish up a project, it is
important to be able to stay as
accurate as possible. Making
detailed markings is going to
allow you to stay on task and
avoid any mistakes.
 Square
- A square is another important
measurement tool that you
should know about. Having a
square is going to help you to
make sure that your
measurements are as accurate
as possible. This is great when you
have complex woodworking
projects to do. It will be handy for
many measurement needs when
you’re working as a finishing
carpenter.
 Clamps
- Clamps are important when you
need to hold something in place.
You will be using clamps for
many different purposes. Even
when you are simply working on
building something, being able
to hold it in place with a clamp is
a must.
  Spokeshave
- A spokeshave is something that
you will use when you are
finishing up making something
such as a chair or a table. You
will be able to shave off bits of
wood that you need to take
away. All of the pieces of your
chair or table must fit properly
in order for things to turn out
perfectly. The spokeshave can
help you to shape your piece of
wood just right.
 Sliding T-Bevel
- These handy tools are capable
of helping you figure out the
right angles for the project that
you’re working on. When you’re
trying to finish everything up
correctly, you need to be sure
that all of the measurements
are correct.
https://www.homestratosphere.com/
types-of-finishing-carpentry-tools/

C. Material Used

 Heavy timber or post and beam

 Engineered wood, dimensional lumber
 Stud, Joist, Rafter
 Sheathing, Sub flooring, Paneling
 Plywood, Shiplap, Tounge and Groove
 Laminate
 Moulding
 Glue, Stains, Sand Sealer
 Tool Pouch
 Combination Square
 T-Bevel
 Nails, Screw, GI Sheet
 Chalk
 Full PPE

http://rajcustombuiltworkshop.blogspot.com/2015/07/materials-used-for-carpentry.html
 2. Safety Practices
a. 5S
- 5S is a system for organizing spaces so work can be performed efficiently,
effectively, and safely. This system focuses on putting everything where it belongs
and keeping the workplace clean, which makes it easier for people to do their
jobs without wasting time or risking injury.

 Sort
 Set in Order
 Shine
 Standardize
 Sustain
https://www.5stoday.com/what-is-5s/

b. Occupational Safety and Health

 Under the Occupational Safety and Health Act of 1970, employers are
responsible for providing safe and healthful workplaces for their employees.
OSHA's role is to help ensure these conditions for America's working men and
women by setting and enforcing standards, and providing training, education
and assistance.
 Workers' Rights
Workers have the right to:
- Working conditions that do not pose a risk of serious harm.
- Receive information and training (in a language and vocabulary the worker
understands) about workplace hazards, methods to prevent them, and the
OSHA standards that apply to their workplace.
- Review records of work-related injuries and illnesses.
- File a complaint asking OSHA to inspect their workplace if they believe there is a
serious hazard or that their employer is not following OSHA's rules. OSHA will keep
all identities confidential.
- Exercise their rights under the law without retaliation, including reporting an injury
or raising health and safety concerns with their employer or OSHA. If a worker has
been retaliated against for using their rights, they must file a complaint with
OSHA as soon as possible, but no later than 30 days.
https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/woodproducts/tech_woodworking.html
c. Personal Protective Equipment

Construction
Personal Protective
Equipment (PPE)

Eye and Face Protection

 Safety glasses or face shields are worn any time work operations can cause foreign objects to
get in the eye. For example, during welding, cutting, grinding, nailing (or when working with
concrete and/or harmful chemicals or when exposed to flying particles). Wear when exposed
to any electrical hazards, including working on energized electrical systems.
 Eye and face protectors – select based on anticipated hazards.
 Foot Protection

 Construction workers should wear work shoes or boots with slip-resistant and puncture-resistant
soles.
 Safety-toed footwear is worn to prevent crushed toes when working around heavy equipment
or falling objects.

Hand Protection

 Gloves should fit snugly.

 Workers should wear the right gloves for the job (examples: heavy-duty rubber gloves for
concrete work; welding gloves for welding; insulated gloves and sleeves when exposed to
electrical hazards).

Head Protection

 Wear hard hats where there is a potential for objects falling from above, bumps to the head
from fixed objects, or of accidental head contact with electrical hazards.
 Hard hats – routinely inspect them for dents, cracks or deterioration; replace after a heavy
blow or electrical shock; maintain in good condition.

Hearing Protection

 Use earplugs/earmuffs in high noise work areas where chainsaws or heavy equipment are
used; clean or replace earplugs regularly.

https://www.osha.gov/Publications/construction_ppe.html

3. Joinery
 13 Types of Wood Joints
- Basic Butt Joint
- This type of joint is often used in wall framing on construction sites. Learn
tips for using a butt joint, as well as when to choose another wood joinery
type.
- Mitered Butt Joint
- A mitered butt joint is nearly the same as a basic butt joint, except that
the two boards are joined at an angle (instead of square to one another).
- Half-Lap Joint
- The half-lap joint is where half of each of the two boards being joined is
removed so that the two boards join together flush with one another.
- Tongue and Groove Joint
- When joining two boards square to one another along a long edge, one
can simply butt the joint together and hold it with fasteners. However, the
tongue and groove joint is much stronger and provides more adjoining
surface areas, which is particularly useful if you're going to glue the joint.
- Mortise and Tenon Joint
- The mortise and tenon is a classic wood joinery method. These joints have
been used since the early times of woodworking, and are still among the
 strongest and most elegant methods for joining wood. Learn methods for
creating tight, beautiful mortise and tenon joints.
- Biscuit Joint
- Another method for joining boards along the edges (like the tongue and
groove joint) is to cut slots and use beechwood wafers (known as a
biscuit) to hold the boards in place. This is a very useful modern
woodworking joint, particularly for creating table tops, relying on glue and
the swelling of the beechwood biscuit to hold the boards in place. Learn
how to cut consistent slots and get reliable results from biscuit joinery.
- Pocket Joint
- The pocket joint is a type of wood joinery that involves cutting a slot and
pre-drilling a pilot hole at an angle between two boards before
connecting the two with a screw.
- Dado
- A dado is nothing more than a square-grooved slot on one board where
another board will fit. Similar to tongue and groove joinery, this is a
commonly-used wood joint for connecting plywood, such as building
cabinetry. Learn how to properly cut a dado, and when to use one.
- Rabbet
- A rabbet is essentially a dado cut along the edge of a board. Rabbets
are often used at the back of cabinets and other similar assemblies for
attaching the back to the sides of the box, adding a considerable
amount of strength to the assembly. Learn how to cut clean rabbets and
when to use them.
- Through Dovetail Joint
- Of all wood joinery methods, the through dovetail may be the most
revered. A classic through dovetail is beautiful and very strong and adds
a touch of class to any piece. There are a few methods for creating
through dovetails, from hand cutting to machining with a jig. Learn the
keys to a quality through dovetail joint and how to create them.
- Half-Blind Dovetail Joint
- There are situations where a dovetail joint is the connection of choice, but
both edges of the dovetails should not be visible. A perfect example is a
drawer front, where you don't want to see the end of the through dovetail
on the face of the drawer. For this type of joint, the best choice is a half-
blind dovetail.
- Sliding Dovetail
- A sliding dovetail is a versatile joint with a lot of possible uses. A good way
to think of it is as a locking dado. Learn the keys to building a clean sliding
dovetail joint, and when to use one.
- Box Joint
- Dovetail joints are beautiful and strong, but not always practical. A box
joint is a simpler alternative to the dovetail joint. Learn how to build
consistent and strong box joints in your woodworking projects.

https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/wood-joinery-types-3536631
 Squaring Lumbers
 STEP1 Cut to Rough Length

After selecting your planks, you’ll want to start cutting them down to
size. Crosscutting the boards to rough length not only makes the stock
more manageable, but also can actually save wood. Cutting a bowed
board into shorter lengths (see Figure 1 below) is more efficient than
attempting to flatten it via the jointer and planer.

Using your material list as a guide, mark out the parts with chalk or a
wide felt-tipped pen. If you aren’t short on material, add 8" to the
finished length to account for planer snipe and at least ½" in width for
ripping and jointing.

Take time to carefully inspect your stock. Staples, nails, and knots are
fairly easy to spot, but other defects may require some detective work.
For example, boards frequently develop end grain cracks, or checks, as
they dry. Hairline cracks can run several inches past the visible split. To
make sure that you’re working with solid wood, start slicing back from
the split as shown in Photo A.

At this stage, there’s a chance that a board may move and grab the
blade. This can be jarring enough to knock your saw out of alignment. To
protect his miter saw for more precise cuts, Matson uses an old radial
arm saw to do the rough work. Alternately, you can use a jigsaw, circular
saw, or handsaw.

Slice off one end to check for cracks. Tap the cutoff against your bench;
if it splits, keep slicing until you reach solid wood.
Use the chalk line guides to make rough rips. Equip y our saw with a
splitter to prevent the board from pinching in and stalling the blade.

 STEP2 Cut to Rough Width

Ripping to rough width not only slices away defects, but as shown in
Figure 1 below can also correct cupping, straightening stock before it
gets lost up the dust chute.

Rough rips are best made on a bandsaw, but you can also use a table
saw. Set the rip fence so the blade cuts through your chalk line.
Depending on the straightness of your stock, you may not need to joint
an edge, but it’s important to equip your saw with a splitter.

 STEP 3 Face-Jointing

The splitter (see the Convenience-Plus Buying Guide, page 68) helps
steer the board straight and prevents the kerf from closing in on the cut
and stalling your saw.

You’re now ready to see what your stock looks like. Set your jointer to
make a light (only about 1/16") cut and slide the fence completely out
of the way. If the board is cupped, place the cup, or concave face
down. Now feed the board across the cutterhead , as shown in Photo C.
Always use rubber-faced push blocks (see Buying Guide, page 68) to
keep your fingers safely away from the blades.

To minimize chipping, you want to try to orient the board so that the
knives cut with the grain, but it’s not always e asy to read grain direction.
If you happen to get a lot of tear-out, simply spin the board and make a
second pass. (Realize that you don’t need a perfectly clean surface.
Your goal is simply to establish enough of a flat surface area to support
the board as it’s fed through the planer.)

Flattening a wide board can be tough, especially when working with a

6" or 8" jointer. Rather than ripping the board into narrower strips or
flattening the board by hand, Eric has come up with another option. As
shown in Photo D, he removes the blade guard and rabbetting fence
and flattens as much as the blades allow. From there you can remove
the remaining ledge boards, you can try the T-square planing sled shown
in the next step.

Shift your weight from the infeed to outfeed side as you feed the board
over the cutterhead. Use push blocks to get a safer, stickier grip.
Remove the guard and rabbetting fence to flatten wide boards. Try to
flatten the face in one pass. You won’t be able to take advantage of
the knives’ full width if the lip catches the table.
Rest the jointed section on the sled so that the planer can flatten the
top. Press the board against the base at the beginning and end of the
cut to prevent tipping.

 STEP 4 Plane to Width

Planing isn’t rocket science, but a few tips can yield a smoother and
flatter finished product. First, set the machine to take light cuts (about
1/16" per pass). If the board has figured grain, try feeding it on an angle.
Skewing the board changes the blade’s ang le of attack and can help it
slice instead of tear-out the grain. Once you get the top face flat, plane
the stock from both faces (flip the board end over end so that both sides
are fed with the grain). Removing stock from both faces helps equalize
the board, reducing the chance of future cupping.

To thickness the boards that are significantly wider than his jointer, Eric
uses a T-square planing jig. As shown in Photo E and Figure 2, this jig
allows the board to ride on the jointed face while the rough lip hangs off
the edge. To prevent the board from tipping, take very light cuts.

Banner Image

Adjust your angle of attack when jointing figured wood. For a smooth
skew, cut the tapered fence a few inches longer than the metal fence.

 STEP 5 Joint One Edge

After you’ve planed a flat surface on the top face, remove the jig, flip
the board, and plane off the lip.
From here on, your cuts count, so take time to check the settings on your
machines, and occasionally double-check your work. Before jointing, use
a square to make sure your fence is perpendicular and adjust the height
of the infeed table to make a 1/16"-deep cut.

As you joint the edge, simultaneously press the board against the tables
and fence. The cutterhead will tell when you have a straight edge ; after
one or two passes, you should be able to hear the knives as they begin
cutting the leading edge and remain in contact with the edge
throughout the cut.

Getting a smooth cut in figured stock requires a slightly different strategy

(Photo F). To make the add-on fence, dimension a 4×32" piece of 7/4 or
8/4 stock, then use a bandsaw to taper the board as shown in Figure 3.
Joint the sawn face and flush-mount the rare-earth magnets (see the
Buying Guide, page 68) with epoxy to secure them to the fence.

Use Both hands help to keep the jointed edge against the fence, but
don’t let your left hand go past the saw’s front edge. Use a push stick to
finish the cut.

 STEP 6 Rip to Width

To provide a little extra stock to plane or remove residual saw marks, set
the fence a hair wider than your finished width. As you feed the board,
use your left hand to keep the stock firmly against the fence (Photo G).
Hooking your left thumb along the front edge of the saw and keeping
your right hand in contact with the fence is a good way to ensure that
your hands don’t follow the board into the blade.

check your saw and work habits to ensure super-square crosscuts. Make
sure the board is firmly secured so that it can’t creep into the blade
while sawing.

 STEP 7 Square One End

Two tips for square cuts. First double- (or triple-) check the saw for
square. Second, always use a stop block or clamp, even when cutting
the free end (Photo G). According to Eric, “The blade can pull in the
board, slightly but enough to affect the squareness of the cut. Treating
both ends with the same care prevents problems from creeping into your
work.”

 STEP 8 Crosscut to Final Length

Using your chopsaw, carefully measure your cutline, then use clamps, a
stop block or both to set the board on your saw and make your final
crosscut. Now, you're ready to move on to the next board in your cut list.

The best-looking boards may warp if they’re given half a chance. This
step ensures that your stock may be flat, straight and square. If you’re
 not able to use them right away, stack and sticker your stock on a dead -
flat surface. You may also want to add a few weights to the top of the
stack. This step will ensure that your stock remains flat until you’re ready
to work.
https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/squaring-up-rough-lumber

4. Ceiling Covers and Cornice

 Materials Used
 These are the most common materials that have been used to
make cornices or coving and other architectural mouldings:
 Plaster – As described, this is the traditional material
however it is heavy and fragile and therefore a very
expensive option in this day and age. It can be very messy
to apply wet
 Paper Covered Gypsum – This is how the original Coving was
made. It is lighter and a little less fragile, but has to be
painted
 Wood – can be cut to create plain cornices, or coving, and
is easy to work and fix being light and robust. The scope and
intricacy of designs is limited
 Expanded Polystyrene – this is very cheap and light although
very easy to damage
 Hardened Polyurethane – This is the most common
alternative to plaster as it is much cheaper, lighter and
easier to fix, while offering a huge range of styles and
designs
https://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/architecturalmouldings.htm
 Installation
 What you need
 Aside from adding the finishing touch to any room’s interior,
cornices are also handy as they can easily hide speaker
cables, security wiring or any other cables for that matter,
says Warren.
 All you will need to undertake a DIY cornice installation is
the following materials and equipment:
o Swartland’s high quality polystyrene cornices
o Acrylic cornice adhesive
o Sponge or clean cloth
o Caulking gun
o Mitre box
o Chalk or pencil
o Putty knife
o A very fine saw
o Extra fine sandpaper
o A stable ladder
o Before you begin
 The first thing you need to do is to measure out the room in order
to determine the linear metres of the moulding required.
 Once you have purchased all the materials required, you’ll need
to move all the furniture, décor and soft furnishings out of the wa y,
and cover them with an old cloth for protection. Then you need to
thoroughly clean all the relevant surfaces (wall and ceiling) so
 they are entirely free of dirt or any loose particles. Ensure the area
in question is completely dry before installation b egins.

 How to do it

 Measure a straight line: Before you can start, it is essential to mark

out a straight line that runs between the ceiling and the wall to
ensure that the cornices are installed correctly. To do this, test fit a
piece of moulding in place, and using chalk or a pencil, mark the
height of where the moulding meets the wall below the ceiling,
and where it meets the ceiling above the wall. Then, using a spirit
level or a laser level, extend this mark along the entire length of
the wall and ceiling surfaces from corner to corner, all the way
around the room.
 “If you find that your ceiling or wall is not perfectly straight,
measure from the lowest point and straight across. Then you can
install the cornices along the straight line and fi ll the gap with
glue,” says Warren.
 Cut to lengths: It is important to cut all the moulding to length and
mitre all the necessary corners beforehand. Mitre boxes make easy
work of mitring the cornices. Before you begin, you need to set the
bevel angle of the mitre box at 45 degrees, and leave the bevel
setting at this angle throughout the entire job. Set the saw at 45
degrees right to cut the pieces that will form the right inside and
the left outside corners. Then set the saw at 45 degrees left to cut
the left inside and right outside corner pieces.
 Warren offers a tip: “The key to successfully mitred corners is
placing the moulding correctly in the mitre box – the moulding
should be placed in the box so that the ceiling bedding edge of
the moulding lies against the bottom of the box, and the wall
bedding edge lies against the side of the mitre box opposite you.”
 He says, in most homes, you will find that the corners are rarely
perfectly square, and so in order to avoid waste, it is prudent to
cut the corners and glue them together before installing them in
place.
 Once all the various lengths have been cut, and t he corner
pieces have been cut and glued together, it is time to
permanently glue the cornices into place.
 Glue into place: Once all the various lengths have been cut, and
the corner pieces have been cut and glued together, it is time to
permanently glue the cornices into place. Using a caulking gun
filled with acrylic cornice adhesive, apply a continuous bead of
adhesive along the backside top and bottom edges of the
moulding, as well as along both butt joint ends. Then gently press
each piece of cornice into place and hold for a bit until the
adhesive sets.
 “For longer pieces, you may need some help holding the cornice
in place while you wait for it to set,” says Warren. However, if you
are on your own, then you can always use masking tape to hold
each piece in place.”
  Finally, for a neat result, it is essential to wipe away any excess
adhesive that spills from the edges or seams using a slightly damp
sponge or cloth.
 Fill in the gaps: Once all the cornices have been glued into place,
you will be able to spot where all the gaps lie. You can use the
adhesive to fill in these gaps – simply apply adhesive to the area in
question, and smooth out excess with your finger or a putty knife
to give it the appearance of being part of the moulding. If the
finish is slightly rough when dried, then you can sand it down with
fine sandpaper for a smooth and professional end result.
 Paint them: Once the adhesive has dried completely, then you
can paint the freshly installed cornices, says Warren. “Remember -
when painting polystyrene cornices, you can only use acrylic
paints or solvent-free water-based enamel paints.”
https://www.property24.com/articles/diy-project-how-to-install-ceiling-cornices/27274

5. Walls/Partition Covers
 Material Used
o Glazing.
o Aluminium.
o Stainless steel.
o Zinc.
o Composites.
o Timber.
o Tensile fabric coverings.
o Brick slips.
o Tile hanging.
o Shakes and shingle.
o uPVC.
https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/What_are_walls_made_of%3F
 Installation
o A stud wall comprises a frame of timber or metal studs secured to the
floor, ceiling and walls, which is then covered with plasterboard.
When you've decorated your new wall, it'll look like an integral part of
your house. Building one is a fairly straightforward job, but there are
some things you'll need to think about before you start.

o First, you should check with your local authority to make sure the work
involved conforms to the current building regulations relating to fire
resistance, light and ventilation. Then you'll need to organise the
lighting, heating and possibly plumbing for y our new room. Lastly, if
the new wall is going to have a doorway, you'll have to buy a door
and frame that matches the thickness of the timber and plasterboard
you're using.

https://www.diy.com/ideas-advice/how-to-build-a-stud-partition-wall/CC_npci_100041.art
6. Wooden Flooring
 Materials Used
o Hardwood Planks
- Solid hardwood floors possess the natural beauty of real wood
grain, color and shine. Hardwoods differ in quality and price,
depending on the species. Imported species include oak, maple
and cherry. Local hardwoods such as mahogany, teak and
molave are also available.
- While hardwood flooring can be an expensive investment, it can
also add value to your home. Hardwood flooring can withstand
much wear and tear, as well as polishing and refinishing, for many
years to come.
o Engineered Wood Planks
- Engineered wood planks are composed of wood particles and
fibers bound together with adhesive, to form a core of plywood
or high-density fiberboard. This core is topped with a layer of
wood veneer.
-
- The fiberboard core is sturdy and humidity-resistant, while the
wood veneer surface looks just like real wood. With these
features, engineered wood planks are less expensive
alternative to hardwood floors.
o Stone Tile
- Natural stone flooring adds a polished and stately feel to any
home. There are different kinds of natural s tone to choose from,
such as marble, granite, travertine and slate. The hardness and
porosity of natural stone flooring depends on the type of stone
you choose, but generally, natural stone flooring is easy to
maintain and can be durable against wear and t ear.
-
- The grain and color of each tile also vary within a particular
batch of natural stone tiles. Each tile is unique — this sets natural
stone apart from other flooring choices.
o Ceramic Tile
- Ceramic tiles are commonly used in many homes because they
are durable and easy-to-maintain.
-
- When it comes to design and style, there are different sizes,
colors, and finishes to choose from. The glaze finish of ceramic
tiles may come in matte, semi-gloss and gloss. With the wide
range of ceramic tiles available, you can use them in almost
any area in the home, be it the outdoor space, the living room,
or even the bathroom.
o Laminate Flooring
- Laminate flooring is made of an inner core of resin or
fiberboard material, fused together with a photographic
surface layer through a lamination process.
- The clear protective film on the surface of laminate flooring
makes it sturdy and durable. On the other hand, the
photographic surface layer of the laminate flooring mimics the
appearance of wood or stone.
https://www.realliving.com.ph/home-improvement/building-renovating/5-
common-flooring-materials-for-filipino-home
 Installation
o Wood can be manufactured with a variety of different installation
systems:
o Tongue-and-groove: One side and one end of the plank have a
groove, the other side and end have a tongue (protruding wood
along an edge's center). The tongue and groove fit snugly t ogether,
thus joining or aligning the planks, and are not visible once joined.
Tongue-and-groove flooring can be installed by glue-down (both
engineered and solid), floating (engineered only), or nail -down (both
solid and engineered).[1][9]
o "Click" or Woodloc systems: there are a number of patented "click"
systems that now exist. These click systems are either "unilin" or
"fiboloc" A "click" floor is similar to tongue -and-groove, but instead of
fitting directly into the groove, the board must be angled or " tapped"
in to make the curved or barbed tongue fit into the modified groove.
No adhesive is used when installing a "click" floor, making board
replacement easier. This system not only exists for engineered wood
floors but also engineered bamboo and a small number of solid floors
(such as "parador solido click") and is designed to be used for floating
installations. It is beneficial for the Do-It-Yourself market.
o Floor connection system: There are a wide range of connection
systems, as most of them are mill-specific manufacturing techniques.
The general principle is to have grooves on all four sides of the plank
with a separate, unconnected, piece that is inserted into the grooves
of two planks to join them. The piece used for the connection can be
made from wood, rubber, or plastic. This installation system allows for
different materials (i.e. wood and metal) to be installed together if
they have the same connection system.
o Wood flooring can also be installed utilizing the glue -down method.
This is an especially popular method for solid parquet flooring
installations on concrete sub-floors. Additionally, engineered wood
flooring may use the glue-down method as well. A layer of mastic is
placed onto the sub-floor using a trowel similar to those used in laying
ceramic tile. The wood pieces are then laid on top of the glue and
hammered into place using a rubber mallet and a protected 2x4 to
create a level floor. Often the parquet floor will require sanding and
re-finishing after the glue-down installation method due to the small
size pieces.
o Floating installation: A floating installation is where the flooring is
installed on top of a layer of underlayment or moisture barrier. The
individual planks are glued together using a tongue and grove
adhesive such as Tite Bond II adhesive or an equivalent. Space for
expansion should be left at the edges of the room. Cabinets and
walls should not be installed on top of floating floors. Subfloors should
be flat and it is not recommended to install on top of more than one
layer of existing flooring.[10]
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_flooring
7. Wooden Stairs
 Part

https://www.google.com/search?q=wooden+stairs+parts&rlz=1C1CHBF_enPH884PH884&tbm=isch
&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=I5eXqBAnaAfNHM%253A%252Cl4A3lBQ5WDLtHM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4
_-kS-
qpXASbuU1bR39KG7rIrdNFEtoQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwizrZzo6YTnAhXbA4gKHduZAzoQ9QEwAnoECA
oQIA#imgrc=X_AxiIspK47P3M:&vet=1

 Materials Used
o Concrete
o Stone
o Wood
o Glass
o Metal
https://www.makaan.com/iq/living/types-of-materials-used-to-make-a-staircase

 Installation
o The basic installation process is this:
 Trim all stair parts to size.
 Install 1st prefinished stair tread using a urethane based
adhesive.
 Secure 1st prefinished stair tread. Nail the back edge which
will be disguised by the riser.
 Install 1st set of shims using adhesive and nails.
 Install the 1st riser with the cut edge up and the factory edge
against the stair tread.
 Repeat steps 1 through 5 until you are done! (If you have a
small landing like we do, you will install regular hardwood
 planks on the landing–they can be included in what you order
from NuStair)!
https://designertrapped.com/how-to-install-wood-stairs/
8. Doors
 Types
o TIMBER/WOOD DOORS
- Traditionally, timber or wood as it is popularly known has been
the mainstay for the manufacture of doors/windows. Its main
advantage has been local availability of material and the ease
with which it can be made by the local carpenters.
o BATTENED AND LEDGED DOORS
- Battened and ledged doors are the simplest form of doors and
are in use since ages. Such doors consist of vertical wooden
battens of the height of the door with about 35 mm thicknesses
which are usually tongue and groove jointed. Usually three
ledges (horizontal members) are provided, one each at the top
and bottom and one in the middle.
o FRAMED AND PANELED DOORS
- These types of doors and windows are most commonly
provided in the houses. The frame for the door is made out of
wood and the shutter panels out of timber, plywood, block
board, hard board, etc. A number of designs can be made on
the panels, thereby making such door quite decorative.
o FLUSH DOORS
- A flush door is a completely smooth door, having plywood or
Medium Density Fiberboard fixed over timber frame which is
comparatively light. The hollow core so obtained is often filled
with a cardboard core material.
o GLASS DOORS
- Glass is usually provided for doors and windows, mostly for
paneling. However if the owner so desires, doors can be made
out of glass for specific locations. Normally such doors are
provided on the backside of the house as it provides
unobstructed view of the backyard or garden.
o STEEL DOORS
- Steel or other such metal construction has been used for years
as they are efficient and are a sturdy option for exterior and
interior doors alike. These doors can be either be solid or
hollow.
o PVC DOORS
- PVC is a common term for the product called Poly Vin yl
Chloride. It is basically a plastic material commonly used for
making various products including water tanks, pipes, fittings
etc for houses. The use of PVC for the manufacture of doors has
become very popular and a large variety of the same are
available in the market in different colours and designs.
o FIBERGLASS DOORS
- Fiberglass is a glass which is drawn into fibrous form and woven
into cloth. It is strong, light & non-flammable and has a high
tensile strength. Glass fibres bonded with resin that can be used
to manufacture a range of .products including bathtubs, doors
and windows etc.
 oFIBER REINFORCED PLASTICS DOORS
- Fiber Reinforced Plastics popularly known as FRP is a general
term relating to the reinforcement of plastic with fibrous glass.
Due to its high strength it can be put to many uses including
manufacture of doors. Typically, the tensile strength is about
ten times that of PVC. FRP moulded doors are available in
many colours and finishes including natural wood finish in the
market. The standard door thicknesses are 30/35 mm and are
available with fire retardant properties.
o ALUMINUM DOORS
- Aluminum is a metal which has been put to a large number of
uses due to being light in weight.
- A large number of products made out of aluminum are
available in the market including doors, windows, partitions,
curtain walls etc.
o BAMBOO-JUTE COMPOSITE DOORS
- Bamboo is one of the fastest renewable plants with a maturity
cycle of 3-4 years, making it a good natural resource
compared to forest hardwoods. Bamboo offers good potential
for processing it into composites as a wood substitute. Bamboo
laminates could replace timber in many applications including
for doors & windows and their frames etc.
https://civilblog.org/2015/07/29/11-different-types-of-doors-to-consider-for-your-
house/
 Material used
o FIBERGLASS:
- Fiberglass doors are built to withstand years of use without
showing so much as a scratch. Fiberglass comes in the color of
your choosing and can easily be repainted. Some doors even
come with the option of wood cladding to match you home
décor.
o ALUMINUM:
- Aluminum is the most popular, affordable and durable material
in use for doors. Beyond being resistant to insects and the
elements, the metal is able to handle the weight of a large
piece of glass and still slide smoothly for years. It often present
a sleek, modern feel, understated enough to slip into the
background of a more traditional home. When painted for yo ur
aesthetic, aluminum doors or wall systems can match anything
around them.
o WOOD:
- A great choice for your entry door, among other places. Our
manufacturers can create a wood door that will meet your
specific requirements. A wide selection of wood and glas s
features to select from lets your personal style shine.
o VINYL:
- Vinyl does not show scratches, is very thermal resistant and will
be easy on your budget. Commonly used for patio doors, vinyl
doors can swing, slide or fold. The choice is yours.
https://www.lifetimewindows.net/door-frame-materials/
  Lock-set
o A lockset (alternatively lock set) is the hardware and components
that make up the locking or latching mechanism that can usually be
found on a door or other hinged object but can also include sliding
doors and dividers.[1] The components of a lockset can include (but
are not limited to) the door handles (commonly both inside and
outside), latchbolt, dead bolt, face plate, strike pla te, escutcheon,
thumbturn, push button, turn button, and other trim. The lockset and
associated hardware typically defines a door's function and how a
user could (or could not) access the two adjacent spaces defined by
the opening associated with the lockset.

o Three standard grades

- The grade specified according to the standards of ANSI/BHMA
indicate the security and durability of the lockset.
- Grade 1
- Commercial, highest grade security and durability.
- Grade 2
- Residential, with excellent security and durability.
- Grade 3
- Residential, minimum acceptable grade.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lockset

9. Windows
 Types
o Awning Windows
- Awning windows open out by pivoting from the top of the
window sash, operated by a crank. Awning windows commonly
are paired with large picture windows and may be placed
along bottom, sides, or top of the picture window to provide
ventilation. They can also be installed above doors, much like
transom windows. Because they open out, awning windows are
not recommended near walkways and other traffic areas, lest
the open windows obstruct the traffic path.
o Casement Windows
- Casement windows also open out (like awning windows) and
usually pivot from side hinges. Many casements have fairly
large glass panes to provide ample light that is uninterrupted
by muntin bars or other framing. Casements also typically offer
more open ventilation area than other window type s. When
closed and locked, casement windows can make a very
effective seal for improved energy performance. Like awning
windows, casements should not open out into traffic lanes.
o Double-Hung and Single-Hung Windows
- Double-hung and single-hung windows are the most common
and familiar window types. The only difference between them is
that single-hung has a movable lower sash and a fixed upper
sash, while double-hung has two movable sashes; the upper
sash slides down.
o Picture Windows
- Picture windows are best in areas where airflow is not important
because they do not open. They are often large glass expanses
occupying the center portion of a wall to provide broad views
 and ample sunlight. Picture windows also work well for high
windows in two-story foyers. Because they do not open, picture
windows are less prone to air leakage than operable windows,
but their large glass panes can lose or gain a lot of heat
(compared to an insulated wall), even with energy -efficient
double-pane construction.
o Bay Windows
- Bay windows are an excellent resource for architects to create
angles and projections on a building structure. Bay windows
allow light to enter at different angles, and most bays include
side windows that can be opened for airflow. Bays are
commonly used in kitchens and family rooms, where the large
sill of the window can be used for plants or a window seat.
o Jalousie Windows
- Jalousie windows are inexpensive solutions for warm-weather
areas, particularly where air conditioning is not needed.
Jalousies consist of glass slats set in metal clips that can be
opened and closed in unison, like louvers. Jalousies provide
maximum airflow, but they are generally narrow and offer
limited views. They also tend to be less secure than other
standard window types.
o Slider Windows
- Slider windows slide open sideways. Like casements, they can
offer clear views and ample ventilation, but they cannot be
sealed as tightly as casements. Sliders are commonly used for
egress windows in basement or below-grade bedrooms, due to
their large openings and easy operation. Utility windows at the
tops of basement walls also tend to be sliders.
https://www.thebalancesmb.com/types-of-windows-844567

 Material Used
o Aluminum frames are rarely used for residential buildings, but they can be
well suited to commercial applications. Aluminum as window frame material
sacrifices insulation for strength. Metals are cold when it is cold outside and
hot when it is hot outside, so aluminum frames will not keep your building
warm in the winter or vice versa. If strength is your primary concern, then
aluminum frames may be a good choice.
o Vinyl windows are the most common today. Vinyl is the most popular material
right now because it is easily manufactured while still maintaining beneficial
properties as a window frame material. The combination of high value and
low cost makes it the standard choice for many. It has good resistance
against heat transfer, making it a good material for insulation. A downside to
vinyl is that there is a lack of color selection that goes along with the material.
o Fiberglass is becoming more and more accepted as a material for window
frames. The buying public was initially skeptical about fiberglass: people
thought that fiberglass lacked strength and resistance to temperature.
However, these myths have been gradually overcome, and fiberglass is now
accepted as an alternative to vinyl. Unlike vinyl, fiberglass can be painted
over, giving aesthetic freedom to the owner. Fiberglass is also better for larger
windows because it can withstand the stress of larger windows better than
vinyl.
o Fibrex is a cutting edge material that tries to combine the best of all these
options. It is a composite made from wood fibers and epoxy resin. The
 material is made to resemble wood, but it contains no material that will ever
rot or deteriorate, making it a good choice for people who like the look of
wood but also want durability. Furthermore, you can paint over it, giving you
the ability to choose whatever color you like.
https://www.builderssupplyco.com/blog/34283/different-types-of-window-materials-and-
their-advantages

 Lock-set
o CASEMENT WINDOW HANDLE LOCK DLK 929
o Reliance Home available Window Locks to suit all window types! Reliance
Home have a great range of Window Locksets, Window Locks, window
handle, window accessories and etc.. We can fulfill your every need.
o SLIDING WINDOW HANDLE LOCK A5
o In Reliance Home, we provide a whole range of Multisliding Lockset and
manufacturers a wide range of multi-sliding door hardware components that
can be configured to meet your project requirements. We can fulfill your
every need.
https://reliancehome.com/accessories/window-lockset/

10. Cabinetry
 Types
 STOCK CABINETS


 Stock cabinets provide a fast and easy way to give a kitchen a fresh new look. The
cabinets are made in common cabinet sizes, and are available in a limited variety
of door styles, colors and finishes. A stock brand such as Aristokraft can offer style,
selection and value, along with speedy delivery, to keep your remodeling project
on time and bring your vision to life.
 SEMI-CUSTOM CABINETS


 Semi-custom cabinets are available in more styles, features and options than stock
cabinets, allowing you to create a personalized look for your kitchen, at less
expense than custom cabinets. Built to order and available at cabinet dealers,
semi-custom cabinets are generally delivered within four-to-eight weeks.
 Semi-custom cabinets can be ordered in a wide choice of finishes, stains, paints,
glazes and specialty finishing techniques such as distressing. They are also available
with features such as roll out shelves, door racks and organization inserts, and can
be embellished with crown moulding, cabinet legs and feet, and a range of
hardware choices to create a unique look.
 CUSTOM CABINETS
 
 Custom kitchen cabinets offer the widest breadth of wood types, finishing options,
construction platforms and modifications. Capable craftsmen and designers can
meet any need, whether that means working from existing cabinet designs, or using
a napkin-sketch approach to make new custom pieces in the manufacturing plant,
ensuring that you end up with the exact cabinets you have imagined.
https://www.masterbrand.com/get-started/design-your-room/cabinet-101/stock-semi-
custom-cabinets

 Materials used
o Solid Wood
- 25 species and grade offerings allow you to display the natural beauty
of wood in our solid hardwood program.
o Decorative Laminate Veneer
- Choose from smooth or textured melamine veneers that are
dimensionally stable, environmentally safe and heat resistant.
o High Gloss
- The High Gloss program offers three levels of high gloss coatings: from
PET film (Mera) to our UV Lacquer (Multa), to the innovative glass-like
PET-G material (Vetro).
o Medium-Density Fiberboard
- Cost effective and durable, MDF products wear well and are a great
alternative to solid wood doors.
o Thermo Textured Surfaces
- 27 colors and 7 different face textures. TTS selections include linear
grain patterns & textures as well as registered-embossed textures which
match the board’s grain
o Plywood Panel
- Plywood panel doors and drawer fronts provide maximum stability in
high-humidity environments and dry climates.
o Wood Veneer
- Attractive and contemporary, our wood veneer doors are available in
a variety of species.
o Aluminum
- Choose from Natural Aluminum, Brushed Stainless, or our new Polished
Chrome frames in combination with your choice of over 40 different
panel inserts.
o Polyethylene
- Polyethylene doors and drawer fronts are safe and durable and can
be used in commercial and residential applications.
https://www.conestogawood.com/products/cabinet-doors-drawer-
fronts/materials.html
 Lock-set
o Keyed Cam Locks

o Door and Drawer Cabinet Locks

o Combination and Keyless Cabinet Locks

https://www.thehardwarehut.com/cabinet-locks.php