FINISING PRAMETERS

PREPARED BY ©right
Name : MAZADUL HASAN SHESHIR
ID: 2010000400008
Batch: 13th Batch (Session 2009-2013)
Department: Wet Processing Technology
Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com (FB)
Blog: www. Textilelab.blogspot.com
Southeast University,Bangladesh
Department of Textile Engineering
 Knit fabric Finishing

The term finishing, in a broad sense it covers all the processes of making
the fabric good looking, good hand feeling, luster and of course for buyer
requirement. It is done after dying and before delivery to market. Various
types of parameters are controlled during finishing section considering
buyer requirement. The term also includes bleaching, dyeing, mercerizing
etc. But normally the term is restricted to the final stage in the sequence
of treatment of Knit fabrics after bleaching and dyeing. However, fabrics
which are neither bleached nor dyed are also finished.
 Objects of finishing:
The aim of finishing is to render textile goods fit for their purpose or end
use. Besides that, finishing can be done for achieving the following
purposes-

a) To improve fabric attractiveness.

- By modification of fabric appearance(optical brightening),
-By altering fabric handle (Softening, Stiffening)
-Control of fabric dimension (Sanforising, Compacting)

b) To improve service ability.

-Protection of fabric (Flame proofing, Water proofing)
-Improved performance (Water repellency, Raising)
-Easy care properties (Resin finish, Crease recovery)
 Finishing & Finishing Target:

Achieving finishing target of knit fabric means to achieve the finished fabric with all the
quality or parameters that is required by the customer.

 In case of knit fabric, target quality refers to the shade, GSM, shrinkage, spirality, color
fastness etc. When order is placed, at first fabric structure, GSM, shade is considered.
Depending on the parameters yarn count, m/c gauge, stitch length, machine dia, yarn
type are selected all those factors are related with target quality.

 Grey fabric gsm should be lower than finished gsm. In case of knitting fabric at least
15% weight will increase during wet processing.

 Grey gsm will depend on the shade percentage, lycra %, type of yarn used and type of
finishing pequired for that particular fabric. For light shade stitch length will be more
than deep shade.

 In case of spirality, it will depend on the yarn count, compactness, feeder no. of the
knitting machine. If count (Ne) is high, compactness of the fabric is more and feeder
no. of the m/c is lower than fabric spirality and shrinkage will be less.
 Finishing & Finishing Target:

 Yarn count and m/c gauge are related to each other and if those two factors are
not matched then faults will be occurred on the fabric. For example, 20’s for
20G/18G, 30’s for 24G, 40’s/28G will yield lower spirality and shrinkage.

 In case of wet processing, shade must be developed in the dyeing laboratory and
should be approved by the buyer. The recipe that is developed in lab is used by
reducing in quantity for bulk production. Because dye pick up percentage is always
high in dyeing m/c.

 Shade should be kept in deeper condition before dropping of dye liquor from
dyeing m/c. because shade could be lighter during soaping. In case of finishing
process, padder pressure, temperature, fabric speed, chemicals and finishing line
should be determine by considering the finishing target because, all those factors
may affect fabric shade.

 When fabric is unloaded from m/c water content is about 200% in case of knit
fabric. Thus hydro-extractor, de-watering m/c are used before drying the fabric.
Otherwise heat consumption for drying process will be huge and that is not cost
effective. In this section finishing chemicals can be applied to the fabric.
 Finishing & Finishing Target:

 Drying machine is used to evaporate water remaining in the fabric after de-
watering process and to obtain fully dried fabric. Fabric dia will reduce during relax
drying process and tube fabric is finished in this machine.

 Thus tubular fabric dia should be kept more than the required finished dia in de-
watering machine. This dia will be reduced in drying machine. After that tube
compactor is finally used to achieve target quality of the fabric. gsm can be
controlled up to 10%.

 But in case of open line, stenter machine is used, which may control most of the
parameters in knit fabric. But fabric should be in open form. Thus open squeezer is
used to slitting the fabric. Then the fabric is feed on stenter where chemicals can
also be applied. Fabric shrinkage, spirality, Gsm, shade, bowing effect, slanting etc
can be controlled by stenter m/c. Maximum 20% gsm can be controlled by stenter
m/c.

 Fabric shade can be controlled by maintaining temp. if shade is dark then temp.
should be high and 15-20% light shade can be obtained.
 Finishing & Finishing Target:

 If shade is light in fabric then temp. should be lowered and silicon softener is
used in large quantity.Then the fabric is finally finished with open compactor
m/c. Maximun 14% gsm of the fabric can be controlled.

 If ultra-soft fabric is required by the buyer, then gsm of the fabric should be kept
at least 5% more after finishing process. Softening action is done on the back
side of the fabric and the fabric is again finished on stenter m/c.

 In case of brushing, the back side of the fabric is brushed. Loops of the fleece
fabric are brushed. Fabric may feed on the m/c for 5-8 times until the target
brushing action is achieved.

 After all those operations, quality control process of the fabric is done in
online and off-line process. In online process gsm, shade, shade variation,
hole patta, bowing, slanting, oil mark, chemical spot etc are checked and
graded with 4 points system. In off-line QC shrinkage, spirality, gsm, color
fastness, wash fastness etc are done which are required by the buyer.
 Finishing & Finishing Target:

 Sometimes problem can appear such as shrinkage, spirality, gsm of the fabric
which cannot be controlled by those finishing process. In this case fabric is
wetted and tumble dried to overcome those problems.

 By this process, sample fabric is finished at first then required tests are done on
the fabric. Sometimes it is not possible to control shrinkage, gsm, spirality, and
other knitting faults due to knitting m/c and yarn. In this situation, the knitting
department should take necessary actions to overcome those problems. If any
faults or quality problem is appeared due to dyeing or finishing the fabric should
be reprocessed, such as re-dyeing, topping, stripping are done and finished
again. But target should be to finish the fabric without re-processing.

 Above all those factors, target finished date must not exceed to finish the fabric.
If the fabric is achieve with all the required quality within the target finished date
then that will be said that we have achieved the finishing target of knit fabric for
a particular batch.
PRODUCTION PARAMETER
OF
STENTER
STANDARD OPERATING PARAMETER FOR DIFFERENT FABRIC IN STENTER

Dia Temperature Over Padder Speed

Fabric Type GSM Blower rpm
(“) (*c) Feed(%) Pressue (rpm)

Single jersey 115-150 2”+ 110-140 40-45% 2 bar 30-35 1100-1300

Single jersey 160-220 2”+ 120-170 40-45% 2.5 bar 25-30 1200-1400
Lycra Single
160-200 4”+ 130-160 50% 2 bar 25-30 1200-1400
jersey
Lycra Single
200-250 4”+ 140-160 50% 2 bar 24-28 1200-1400
jersey

Pique 160-200 3”+ 130-160 40-45% 1.5-2bar 25-30 1200-1400

Lycra Pique 190-220 4”+ 130-160 50% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400

Fleece/Terry 260-300 4”+ 140-170 40-45% 2 bar 20-25 1300-1400

1x1 Rib 160-220 2”+ 130-160 45% 2 bar 24-28 1300-1400

2x2 Rib 190-220 2”+ 140-160 45% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400

Interlock 190-220 3”+ 130-160 50% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400

 Relation between yarn count, fabric type, stitch length and finished GSM:

For Single jersey-

FINISHED GSM COUNT FINISHED DIA

140 30/1 Machine dia=Finished dia
160 26/1 Machine dia+1=Finished dia
180 24/1 Machine dia+2=Finished dia
200 20/1 Machine dia+3=Finished dia
220 18/1 Machine dia+5=Finished dia

For 1X1 Rib

FINISHED GSM COUNT GAUGE FINISHED DIA

150-200 30/1 18 Machine dia
210-220 28/1 18 Machine dia
220-230 26/1 18 Machine dia+1
240-250 24/1 18 Machine dia+1/2
280-300 20/1 18 Machine dia+2/3
 Relation between yarn count, fabric type, stitch length and finished GSM:

For Plain Interlock-

FINISHED GSM COUNT GAUGE FINISHED DIA

200 40/1 24 Machine dia
180 40/1 24 Machine dia+1
220-230 34/1 24 Machine dia+2
240-250 30/1 24 Machine dia+2/3

If the fabric is to be Enzyme washed, the stitch length should be kept (10%) less than the
normal range. Because, enzyme wash reduces the total weight of the fabric by removing the
floating fibre and hairy fibre.
For light color, the finished GSM varies near about 15-20% from grey GSM For average color,
the finished GSM varies 20-25%
For dark color, grey GSM is kept less (i.e. the stitch-length is large) because take up%
of dark color is more and the weight of dyed fabric will be increased.
If the GSM varies 25-30%, it is not only necessary to control the VDQ pulley dia but also yarn
tension & take up roller.
 Parameters for cotton Fabric:

Fabric Type Overfeed % Temperature0C Speed Stretch

(m/min) (%) Inch
Light Deep
Color Color

Single Jersey 30 % to 45% 150-1550C 160-1650C 25~28 Depend on

fabric
G.S.M
Depend on
Single Lacoste 30 % to 42% 150-1600C 160-1650C 22~26 fabric
G.S.M

Polo Pique 30% to 6405% 150-1600C 160-1650C 20~25 Depend on

fabric
G.S.M

Interlock 30 % to 40% 1650C 165-1700C 22~24 Depend on

fabric
G.S.M
 SUNSUPER : STANTER

Req. Finish Speed Over

Fabric R B F Temperature
GSM GSM m/min feed
S/J 190 178 58” 56” 60” 110 24 50%

S/J(c.v.c) 180 180 56” - 59” 110 35 50%

H/J 280 276 70” 72” 73” 120 18 50%

1*1 Rib 240 244 72” 73” 75” 120 18 40%

stripe 330 335 62” 66” 70” 130 16 60%

Fleece 280 270 76” - 78” 110 16 50%

 Procedure for Heat set for Lycra s/j fabric:
AFTER LESS
HEAT DELIVERY OVER SPEED HEAT FROM
GSM COLOR SET TEMP DIA FEED m/min SET REQUIRED
GSM GSM

White & ligh 185C +15% 40/18/25 20 150 20-25

190- 200 Average 185C +15% 40/18/25 20 145 20-25

R/black 185C +15% 30/15/20 20 130 25

White & ligh 185C +15% 40/18/25 20 130 20-25

160-170 Average 185C +15% 40/18/25 20 125 20-25

R/black 190C +15% 30/15/20 20 120 25

White & ligh 190C +15% 40/18/25 20 100 20-25

150 Average 190C +15% 40/18/25 20 100 20-25

R/black 190C +15% 30/15/20 20 100 25

 Dia Control:

Dia is controlled by dia controlling meter scale.

1. -If any fault, GSM of the fabric is reduced then to increase the GSM of the
fabric dia will have to be reduced (2 – 3) inch.
2. -If Over feed speed is more then Dia of the fabric will be more.
3. -If Over feed speed is less then Dia of the fabric will be less.
4. -If length is more then width of the fabric is reduced.
5. -If length is less then width of the fabric is more.

N.B: Fabric speed is controlled on the fabric dia. Here, Dia less or More fully
depends on yarn count and buyer order. Dia is done less or more by using
expander rod.

Fabric Dia(Increase)
Single jersey 1.5 – 2 ) inch +.
Rib fabric 2 – 2.5 inch +.
Interlock 3 – 3.5 inch +.
Pique 3 – 3.5 inch +.
 Procedure for Heat set for Lycra s/j fabric:

LESS
AFTER
HEAT DELIVERY OVER SPEED FROM
GSM COLOR HEAT
SET TEMP DIA FEED m/min REQUIRED
SET GSM
GSM

White& light 190C +15% 40/18/25 20 185 20-25

240- 230 Average 190C +15% 40/18/25 20 180 20-25

R/black 190C +15% 30/15/20 20 160 25

White & ligh 180C +15% 40/18/25 20 165 20-25

210- 220 Average 180C +15% 40/18/25 20 160 20-25

R/black 185 C +15% 30/15/20 20 140 25

 Rules for heat set fabric:
1. Temp constant(give in heat set process)
2. Speed always constant
3. Over feed
A.For white & average color
i. Standard: 40/18/25
ii. Minimum: 30/15/20
iii. Maximum: 50/25/25
B. For black color
iv.Standard: 30/15/20
v.Minimum: 20/12/18
vi.Maximum: 50/25/25
4. Stretch:
i. Maximum: 35% to 40%
ii. Minimum: 18%
5. After heat set fabric dia (delivery)
i.Maximum: given in heat set procedure
ii.Minimum: 14% of m/c dia
6. GSM
i. White color: required GSM (less 50 to 55)
ii. Average color: required GSM (less 60 to 65)
iii. Black color: required GSM (less 75 to 80)
PRODUCTION PARAMETER
OF
COMPACTOR
For different type of fabric speed and compaction (TUBE TEX):

Fabric Type Speed ( r.p.m ) Compaction

S/J 20 8-9 %
Lycra S/J 25 7-10 %
1*1 Rib 30 8 -11 %
Single lacoste 30 10 -14 %
2×2 Rib 30 -35 6-7 %
Double lacost 30 -35 12 %
Pk. Fabric 30 10 -12 %
Interlock 30-35 9 – 12%

Blade No Req. GSM

110 Up to 125
125 Up to 140
140 Up to 180
170 Up to 240
200 Over 240
 WORKING PARAMETER OF COMPACTOR

Fabric type Colour Speed Over Feed Temperature Blanket Teflon

Pressure Pressure
Single White 15-18 25-30 90-110
1.5-2bar 36psi
jersey Colour 15-18 25-30 110-120
Pique White 15-18 30-35 100
1.5-2bar 36psi
(s/j,d/j) Colour 15-18 30-35 110-120
White 12-16 Full over 100-110
Lycra s/j 1.5-2bar 36psi
Colour 12-16 feed 100-120
White 15-20 20-30 100
1x1 Rib 1.5-2bar 36psi
Colour 15-20 20-30 110-120
White 12-15 12- 25-30 100
2x2 Rib 1.5-2bar 36psi
Colour 15 25-30 110-120
White 12-16 Full over 100
Interlock 1.5-2bar 36psi
Colour 12-16 feed 110-120
 Shrinkage Tolerance of Different Fabric:

Fabric Type Length (%) Width (%)

S/J -5.50 -5.50
Lycra S/J -6.00 -6.00
Single Lacoste -7.00 -7.00
Lycra Single Lacoste -7.00 -7.00
1X1 Rib -7.00 -7.00
Lycra 1X1 Rib -7.00 -7.00
2X2 Rib -8.00 -8.00
Lycra 2X2 Rib -8.00 -8.00
Interlock -7.00 -7.00
Terry Fleece -5.00 -5.00
Overfeed % Up Setup for Lafer compacting Machine:

Overfeed % Up for Lycra Single Jersey : 60

Overfeed % Up for Single Jersey : 35/40.

Overfeed % Up for Lacost fabric : 35/40

Overfeed % Up for Rib fabric : 20/22

Overfeed % Up for CVC fabric : 45

 Work Instruction or Parameter : Open Compactor
(Blanket type)
Over
Speed Temperature Blanket Teflon Stretch
Fabric type Colour Feed
(m/min) (degree C) Pressure Pressure (%)
(%)
Single White 15-18 25-30 90-110 1.5-2bar 36psi As required
jersey Colour 15-18 25-30 110-120

Pique White 15-18 30-35 100 1.5-2bar 36psi As required

(s/j,d/j) Colour 15-18 30-35 110-120

Lycra s/j White 12-16 Full 100-110 1.5-2bar 36psi As required

Colour 12-16 over 100-120
feed
1x1 Rib White 15-20 20-30 100 110- 1.5-2bar 36psi As required
Colour 15-20 20-30 120

2x2 Rib White 12-15 25-30 100 110- 1.5-2bar 36psi As required
Colour 12-15 25-30 120

Interlock White 12-16 Full 100 110- 1.5-2bar 36psi As required

Colour 12-16 over 120
feed
 Work Instruction or Parameter : For Cotton Fabric

Type of Fabric Padder Pressure Over feed Temperature Stretch (%)

P1 P2 (%) (oC)
Non- 2.5 2.5 25 120 8-10

S/J Mercerized
Mercerized 2.5 2.5 35 120 12
Dyed 2.5 2.5 30 120-130 8-12

White 2.5 2.5 30 120 10-12

PK Dyed 2.5 2.5 30 120-130 10-12
1X1 Rib White 2.5 2.5 35 120 5
Dyed 2.5 2.5 35 130 5
2X2 Rib White 2.5 2.5 35 120 8-10
Dyed 2.5 2.5 35 130 8-10
 Parameters used for different types of fabric:

Req. Finish Temperatur Speed Over

Fabric R F B
GSM GSM e m/min feed

S/J 140 - 68” 71” 67” 140 14 80%

” 160 150/52 56” 64” 60” 150 20 80%

” 180 170/72 54” 56” 54.5” 110 12 60%

“ 190 188/90 58” 61” 57” 110 15 80%

H/J 280 270/75 64” 67” 62” 110 7 80%

back 280 255/60 74” 78” 75” 110 9 80%

Fleece 260 260/65 74” 80” 75” 110 9 80%

1×1 rib 240 224/26 72” 75” 74” 110 10 80%

stripe 330 340/45 62” 67” 65” 130 10 80%

PRODUCTION PARAMETER
OF
DRYER
 For cotton fabric:

Fabric Type Overfeed Temperature0C Speed (m/min) Folder Vibration

% Speed
(m/min)
Color White High Low
Color G.S.M G.S.M

Single Jersey 30 % to-40% 150-1600C 130-1500C 15-20 20-25 2~3 As

Required
Single 30 % to-35% 130-1500C 2~3 As
Lacoste 160-1650C 15-20 20-25 Required

Polo Pique 30 % to-40% 155-1600C 130-1500C 15-20 20-25 2~3 As

Required
2~3
Interlock 30 % to-40% 165-1700C 130-1500C 14-18 22-24 As
Required
10-18 3~4 As
Grey 30%-40% 155-1600C 130-1500C 20-22 Required
Mélange
 Fabric Type Temp. (oC) Over feed Vibration Ext. Temp. Speed
(%) (oC)
S/J White 110 25-30 750 65 30
Color 100-165 10-35 500-750 70 10-45
PK White 130-140 35 750 65 20-30
Color 140-150 30-35 700-750 70 20-30
1X1 Rib Tube 140-150 10-20 700-750 65-70 25
Open 140-150 20-35 700-750 65-70 25
P. Interlock 120-140 35 750 65-70 25
Mercerized Grey 165 - - 80 5-10
Fabric
1X1 L. Rib 120-150 20-35 700-750 65-70 20-30
Checking parameters:
1. Overfeed ( %) : It depends on fabric structure & GSM
2. Temperature: It depends on color & GSM.( normally for single jersey -1600C, for
high GSM, like-fleece, it may be 2500C )
3. Speed: It depends on fabric GSM. For higher GSM, lower the speed.

GSM Over feed

Up to 120 14-15%

120-140 12%

140-200 7-8%

200-250 5-6%
 Work Instruction:
Type of Fabric Over feed (%) Temperature Stretch (%)
(oC)
Non-Mercerized -10/60 100-180 35
S/J
Mercerized -10/60 100-180 45
Dyed (Yarn) -10/60 160-180 35
Dyed Mercerized -10/60 160-180 45
White -10/60 100-150 50
PK
Dyed -10/60 160 50
White -10/60 100-150 20
1X1 Rib
Dyed -10/60 160-180 Maximum
White -10/60 100-150 50
P.I.L.
Dyed -10/60 160 50
 M/C set up for Ruckh relax dryer:

M/C parameter Set-up value

Temperature setting 100c- 120c for white shade
120c-130c for light shade
130c-140c for Dark shade
150c-170c for curing
Blower fan setting Auto
Exhaust fan setting Auto
M/C Speed 3-35 m/min. Depends on quality of fabric.
Over feed 0-40% depends on fabric construction.
Width of expreader setting 45-114 cm: Depends on the required
width of fabric.
PRODUCTION PARAMETER
OF
SQUEZER Or PADDER
Bar PSI Kg Lbs
1 14.5 90 200
2 29 205 450
3 43.5 315 700
4 58 425 940
5 72.5 540 1200
6 87 650 1440
Fabric Type Pad pressure Speed Over Feed
S/J 2.5 – 3 40 -50 40
PK 3 40 -50 40
1x1 Rib 3 -3.5 50 -60 25
2x2 Rib 3 – 3.5 60 40
P/I 3 – 3.5
Mer S/J 2 40 40
Mer PK 2.5 40 40
Mer 1x1 Rib 2.5 – 3 50 25
Mer 2x2 Rib 2.5 – 3 60 40
Mer P/I 2.5

Mar = Mercerization
PRODUCTION PARAMETER
OF
SLITTER
 Feed roller pressure:

Bar PSI Kg Lbs

1 14.5 90 200

2 29 205 450

3 43.5 315 700

4 58 425 940

5 72.5 540 1200

6 87 650 1440
 Work instruction:

Fabric Type Pad pressure Speed Over Feed

S/J 2.5 – 3 40 -50 40
PK 3 40 -50 40
1x1 Rib 3 -3.5 50 -60 25
2x2 Rib 3 – 3.5 60 40
P/I 3 – 3.5
Mar S/J 2 40 40
2.5 40 40
Mer 1x1 Rib 2.5 – 3 50 25
Mer 2x2 Rib 2.5 – 3 60 40
Mer P/I 2.5
 Singeing:
Setup parameters Range Set value
Speed(m/min) 0-120  55-60 for cotton.
 70 for PC/CVC.
Potentiometer Setting (rpm) 0-150  80-90 for cotton fabric
 60-70 for CVC/PC.
Burner in use 1 or 2 2
Burner operation mode. Auto/Manual Auto
Flame height (cm) 1-8  6 for white & light shade
fabric.
 6.5 for medium & dark
shade fabric
Flame angle with the direction of 450 to 900  450 for blends
fabric.  900 for cotton
Flame intensity Low/normal/  Low – not used
high  Medium – for white & light
shade
 High – for medium & dark
shade fabric
 Mercerizing:

Parameters Value
Squeeze pressure 1.5-2 bar (by compressed air)
Temperature of washing 800-900c
PH after mercerizing 7-7.5
In mixing tank : 80-900c

In caustic stroage tank : 70-800c

Caustic solution temperature
In chiller : 140c

In Mercerizing bath : 160-200c

1st sigar diameter Set with fabric dia +3
2nd sigar diameter Set with fabric dia +5
Caustic strength 280 Be
 Machine Setup On The Basis Of Fabric Type & GSM

Fabric Type GSM Pump Speed % Reel Speed(MPM)

Single Jersey Up to 140 80 250
140 – 180 85 230
180 – above 90 210
Polo Pique, Back Pique Up to 160 85 280
160 – 200 90 260
& Bubble Knit
220 – above 90 240
Interlock Up to 180 85 260
180 – 220 90 240
220 – above 90 220
Process control parameter for different fabric in Brushing machine

Fabric Fleece Fleece Terry

Lycra Fleece
Parameter (Heavy Brush) (Light Brush) Fleece
M/C Speed 20-24 mpm 22-24 22-24 22-24
Counter Roller 38-52 30-60 32-58 32-58

Pilling Roller 40-50 42-48 40-50 40-50

Running Roller 30-60 38-52 42-48 42-48