SPECIFICATION

Project:TWO STOREY RESIDENCE WITH ATTIC

Location: AMORE AT PORTOFINO SUBDIVISION, ALMANZA DOS,
LAS PINAS CITY
Subject:SPECIFICATION

Division 1: GENERAL REQUIREMENTS

 The complete construction shall be under the supervision of a duly registered

Architect or Engineer.
 All permits pertaining to the construction shall be acquired and paid by the
owner.
 The construction of the project shall be done in accordance with the sound and
accepted engineering practice and in conformity with the existing building codes
and regulations.
 Brush shall be disposed of by burning on the site; however, secure a burn permit.
Timber of suitable dimensions should be stockpiled at the perimeter of the
site. This timber should be saved for possible use in construction
of loading ramps. All stumps, roots, boulders, vegetation, and rubbish must be
excavated and moved clear of the site.
 Temporary storage room or area shall be provided to secure materials in the site.
 Temporary Fences shall be constructed.

Division 2: SITE CONSTRUCTION

 Staking shall be done in accordance with the dimensions provided in the plan,
approved by the owner.
 Clearing and site grubbing, removal of existing grass and all deleterious materials.
 Excavation of the site shall be free from any kind of fill like water and rock and is
either manual or through the use of a machine up to the specified depth in the plan.
 Fill of any approved materials shall be free from roots, stumps, and any foreign
objects and must be evenly spread and compacted.
 Backfill materials must be free from grass, roots, stumps and any kind of foreign
materials and must be evenly spread and compacted on the approved site.
 Two inch thick G-1 gravel evenly spread and compacted.
 Any approved soil poisoning materials for pest control.
 Two layers of Polyethylene sheets of any approved brand of vapor barrier.

Materials:

 Wooden Stakes
 Batter Boards
 Strings
Staking Layout

Procedures:

 Using tape measure and white marking paint, measure and mark the basic
layout of the foundation. Be sure the corners are easily identifiable.
 Layout footings with a string line and stakes. This process will enable you to
create straight lines and square corners. Hammer three stakes into the ground
about 3'-0" past the corner markers of the foundation. Each stake shall be about
3'-0" away from the other creating a square corner. Screw a 1x4 piece of
wood across the stakes, this is your batter board. Importantly, the batter boards
don't need to be totally square. The string line is required to be square.
 Level the batter boards: Use a basic level, check the boards and adjust as
necessary. Following the outside line of the foundation back to the batter board,
tack a nail into the top of the batter board marking that line. Do this for both
walls that create corners. Pull the string lines in between all points.
 Square up the lines using one of two proven formulas: Hypotenuse Rule or 3-4-5
check, which states the hypotenuse should be 10'-0" when one leg is 6'-0" and
one leg is 8'-0". Just measure back from one corner 6'-0" and mark the string,
then measure the opposite string back 8'-0" and mark it. Finally, measure the
diagonal between those two marks to the hypotenuse. The other is the Diagonal
Method in which both diagonals are measured as pictured and adjust the strings
until both diagonals are exactly equal.
 Tie a plumb bob to the intersecting strings at foundation corners. The plumb bob
shall rest just above grade. When the plumb bob is resting at plumb, drive a nail
into the grade at that point. Repeat on all corners and then pull a string line right
on top of the grade between these points. Afterwards, spray marking paint
directly over this string line. Go over the string accurately and repeatedly for a
nice, clearly visible white line on the grade.
 Remove both the string line at grade and the string line tied to the batter boards.
With those out of the way, you can begin the excavation process. Cut the footing
against the painted line at first. Continuously shovel your excavated soil to the
outside of the foundation area.

Division 3: CONCRETE

 Refer to the structural plan.

 All concreting shall be done in accordance with the standard specification for
concreting materials as adopted by the Bureau of Public Works. The following
proportion shall be used:
a. Class A- 1:2:4 – footing, columns and beams
 b. Class B- 1:2 ½:5 – slab on fill, driveways and wall footings

c. 1:3 cement sand mix for plastering.

 Concrete hollow blocks shall be approved quality, free of cracks and other defects
which may impair their strength and appearance.
 All intersecting reinforcement bars shall be tied together with # 16 plain G.I. wires.
 Deformed Bars to be used for reinforcements will be the 6m. in length that is
available on the market.
 50 kg./sack of Portland Cement shall be used in concrete mixtures.

Formworks

 Conventional type that will produce correctly aligned concrete.

 Use timber boards with 2” X2”X12” and ordinary plywood 3/8” thick of to assemble
the forms.
 Brace the boards securely using bolts, ensuring that they are strong enough to
support the weight of the concrete.
 Always check that the form work is level.
 Confirm that the dimensions of the forms follows the structural plan.
 Apply release agent in all formworks.

Preparatory Works

Materials:

 Ordinary Plywood 3/8” thick

 Coco-Lumber 2” X2”X12
 Coco-Lumber 2” X3”X12
 CWN 4”
 CWN 3”
 CWN 2”

Procedures:

 Obtain relevant approved construction drawings from client / client’s

representatives.
 Set out the locations, centre lines and levels for formwork along with reference lines.
 Prepare necessary formwork panels to the required dimensions and sizes.
 Coat formwork surface evenly and thinly with release agent like form oil etc.
Formwork Construction

Procedures:

 Erect the formwork by providing sufficient props and struts including necessary
bracing.
 Use scaffolding and staging arrangements.
 Seal gaps in formwork to avoid leakage of grout.
 Ensure checking for the required shape and dimensions as per drawings.
 Submit Request for Inspection Form for joint inspection with client / client’s
representative using Structural Work (Reinforcement / Concrete) Inspection
Checklist.
 On completion of joint inspection, request client/client’s representative to sign on
the checklist and file as per Project Filing Index.

Removal of Formwork

Procedures:

 Shuttering forming the vertical faces of walls, beams and column sides shall be
removed first as they bear no load but only retain the concrete.

 Shuttering forming soffit of slabs shall be removed next.

 Shuttering forming soffit of beams, girders or other heavily loaded shuttering shall
be removed in the end.

Materials:

 16mm. ø X 6m. def. bars

 12mm. ø X 6m. def. bars
 10mm. ø X 6m. def. bars
 # 16 G.I. Tie Wires

PREPARATION OF REBARS

Procedures:
  The ground shall be graded and compacted after any needed
subgrading, excavations, and underground rough ins for plumbing and
electrical utilities is finished. Lay out the actual perimeter or form lines for the
concrete placement after the grading and compaction and associated testing is done.
 Tied rebars in place before the formwork is completed so bars can be positioned and
tied in place. For concrete slabs, the subgrade (ground underneath the slab) is often
pre-treated for termites, and a moisture barrier or damp proofing is installed before
the mat is tied.
 Determine the size of bars required in each direction, mark two or three bars with
the appropriate layout measurements in each direction, and count the marks to
determine how many rebar are required for each direction.
 Prepare the length of Deformed Bars and refer to structural plans for the type of
stirrups and lateral ties to be used.
 Tied the rebar using no.16 G.I. wire for every intersections of rebars
 Place each rebar in its respective position. The layout bars ( or mark bars) can be
marked with a soapstone marker, a paint pen, a piece of lumber crayon, or
with spray paint.
 Use pliers for tying these ties efficiently. Pull the feeding end of the wire reel with
your non-dominant (hereafter regarded as left, please reverse for right handed
persons) hand. Grip the end of the wire with pliers in your right hand, and poke, or
push it behind the rebar. Bend or angle the end toward the place will be grabbing
the end in the next step of the tie, then reach from that side, grip it again with the
pliers, pull it toward the next place will route it to, pulling enough slack wire to
complete the tie. Hold resistance on the wire with your left hand. Release the wire
so that the pliers can be used to grip it, and do so, pulling the end around the bar
and twist the two ends of the wire together. Pull or tug the wire with the pliers so
the tie is tight.
 Tie all the bars required in their correct positions. Check structural plans to make
sure each component of the reinforcement is in place.
 Chair or support the rebar. Once the mat or cage is assembled. Hold it in position so
that the concrete will cover it completely. Rebar chairs or concrete bricks are often
used for this purpose. Place these positioners at a spacing that will not allow the
rebar to bend or deflect enough to reduce the coverage you wish to obtain with the
concrete you place in you forms. For a 12 inch thick footing, the rebar mat is usually
placed about 4 inches from the bottom of the concrete, and side clearances range
from 2 to 4 inches.
 Observe the rebar configuration while the concrete is placed. If shifting occurs,
support the rebars with a handled tool like a shovel wedged so that it can achieve
sufficient leverage to hold its position, or alter the direction of flowing concrete so
force is applied in the opposite direction.
 Cap or otherwise protect any exposed bars while working near them. Rebar that
is sheared, or mechanically cut has very sharp surfaces at the location of these cuts.
Construction workers have suffered serious injuries and have also been killed when
fallen on projecting rebar dowels.

Install Rebar in Concrete Footings

Procedures:

 Excavate and install the building's concrete forms according to the architectural
design.
 Place a web of rebar into the middle of the two pieces of plywood. At the end of one
web, insert another web, then wire the two webs together with a generous amount
of steel wire.
 Continue inserting new webs and wiring them together until the entire footing has
been lined with rebar.
 Cut excess rebar from the top of the footings with a cut off saw about 6 inches below
the planned top of the footing.
 Wrap one end of a piece of steel wire around nails in the footings about every 4 feet,
then wrap the other end around the rebar. This will hold the rebar in place when the
concrete is poured into the forms.
 Pour the concrete into the forms and smooth according to the building's
architectural design and allow the concrete to cure.

Install Rebar in Concrete Foundations

Procedures:

 Arrange a series of concrete support stones along the bottom of the foundation
excavation. Concrete support stones are square concrete stones of a uniform height
that support the rebar at the necessary height while the concrete is poured. Choose
stones that are half the height of the planned slab. Place a stone every five feet in
the excavation.

 Place the rebar rods into the foundation atop the support stones. The grid shall be
placed with a bar spaded every two feet, starting two to five inches from the edge of
the planned slab. Place a single layer of parallel bars, and then place the second layer
of bars perpendicular to the first.

 Place metal ties around the crossing points of the two layers of rebar to create a
single grid. Twist the metal ties around the crossing bars using a pair of pliers.

Preparing and Laying of Concrete

Materials:

 40 kg./sack of Portland Cement

 Sand
 Crushed Gravel ¾”
Procedures:

 Assemble the forms along the outer edges of the area you will be placing the
concrete in.
 Build the forms. In order to contain the wet concrete, assemble the forms along the
outer edges of the area you will be placing the concrete in.
 Mix the cement and sand. Prepare your dry mix by mixing the cement mix and sand
using mixer or manual mixing.
 Incorporate the gravel or crushed stone in the dry mixture.
 Add water to the mixture slowly, mixing continuously until the concrete becomes
plastic enough to place in your form.
 Thoroughly mix the concrete. Continue mixing until the concrete has a uniform
consistency.
 Add the concrete to your form, tapping all the edges to remove air pockets, and let it
settle in evenly and firmly.
 Do not remove the formworks until it reaches its curing stage.

Pouring of Concrete Slab

Procedures:

 Measure from the lot line to position the slab parallel to it. Then drive four stakes to
roughly indicate the corners of the new slab. With the approximate size and location
marked, use a line level and string or builder's level to see how much the ground
slopes.
 Sight down the boards to make sure they're aligned and straight before nailing on
the cleat. Cut the two side form boards 3 in. longer than the length of the slab. Then
cut the end boards to the exact width of the slab.Nail the end boards between the
side boards to create the correct size form.
 Stretch a string across the top of the forms and measure down to the ground. Do this
in three to four spots and average the results. Subtract the thickness of your slab.
Then use this depth to calculate the cubic yards of fill needed.
 Use a metal-cutting blade or disc in a reciprocating saw, circular saw or grinder to cut
the rebar. Cut and bend pieces of rebar to form the perimeter reinforcing. Splice the
pieces together by least 6 in. and wrapping tie wire around the overlap. Wire the
perimeter rebar to rebar stakes for support. Then cut and lay out pieces in a 4-ft.-on-
center grid pattern. Wire the intersections together. Pull the grid up into the center
of the concrete in pouring the slab.
 To figure the volume of concrete needed, multiply the length by the width by the
depth in meters to arrive at the number of cubic meter. Don't forget to account for
the trenched perimeter. Divide the total by 27 and add 5 percent to calculate the
 number of yards of concrete you'll need. Triple-check your forms to make sure
they're square, level, straight and well braced.
 Start striking the poured concrete off even with the top of the form boards with a
straight, smooth 2x4 in. screed board. Tip the top of the screed board back slightly
 When the slab is firm enough to resist an imprint from your thumb, start hand-
floating. On cool days, you may have to wait an hour or two to start floating and
troweling.

Division 4: MASONRY

 Concrete masonry unit of 4” thick non-load bearing CHB for wall and partitions;
 Concrete masonry unit of 5” thick non-load bearing CHB for exterior wall and
partitions.
 Portland cement 1:3 mixture for mortar
 Portland cement 1:2 mixture for plastering.
 Structural steel reinforcement as shown in the plan.
 CHB Reinforcement Bars horizontally in every 3 layers.

Preparing to Lay the Concrete Blocks

Materials:

 Cement
 Sand
 CHB 5” Thick
 CHB 4” Thick
 12mm. ø X 6m. def. bars
 10mm. ø X 6m. def. bars

Procedures:

 Drive stakes into the ground and build a form at each corner. These stakes and forms
can be made from scrap pieces of wood used on the job.

 Locate the exact corner by stretching lines from one corner form to the other. The
exact corner will be the point at which the two lines cross.
 Drop a plumb bob down from each line, both at the corner point where the lines
cross and at positions about 2' out in each direction.
 Determine the exact number of blocks required for the first course by laying out a
course of block on the dry concrete. Do not use mortar for this test run.
 Use scrap pieces of 3/8" plywood to fill in the mortar joint between each block. This
is the thickness of the mortar when applied.
 Remove the blocks and prepare for the actual laying of the first course.

Laying the Concrete Blocks

Materials:

 Sand
 Gravel
 CHB with 4” thick
 CHB with 5” thick
 10mm. ø def. bars
 Anchor Bolt

Procedures:

 Drop plumb bobs down from the corner string and at positions about 3' out from the
corner and mark the location of the corner block on the footing base as shown.

 Spread the mortar out about 1" deep and 8" wide in the marked area. Extend this
mortar out for a distance of about three of four blocks in one direction.
 Put a furrow in the center of the mortar using trowel. This furrow will force the
mortar to the edge of the block when it is laid.
 Check the starting corner block, both horizontally and vertically, and take time to
get it positioned correctly. All other blocks will align with this starter block so it is
very important to set it exactly.
 Repeat same procedure on all four corners, laying the first course out about two or
three blocks in each direction.
 Tie a line between two bricks and stretch it between the two corner blocks on the
first course. Continue of laying base mortar on the footing as the course continues.
Apply mortar to the ends of the blocks with a trowel and place the block into
position.
 Use a masonry chisel to cut a block to fill a course. Draw a line on both sides of the
block where the cut is to be made. Strike the chisel with a bricklayer's hammer. You
will soon learn to make such cuts easily.
 After four or five blocks are laid, use a long mason's level or some type of
straightedge to check the alignment of the blocks. Check both the tops of the blocks
and the outside edge for correct alignment
 Tap the blocks into position to make any alignment corrections while the mortar is
still wet. Never attempt to move a block after the concrete begins to set.
 Build up the corners first. Always keep the corners about a block or two higher than
other runs until the job is done.
 Keep the guidelines between the corners at all times. The blocks shall be level at all
points in each course. Be careful not to knock the lines out of alignment. Always
keep the guidelines tight. If one side gets bumped out of position, take a minute to
level it.
 Use a trowel to cut away any surplus mortar. Throw the surplus mortar back onto
the mortar board. Keep turning the mortar with trowel throughout the project so
small portions will not harden.
  Use a piece of 3/4" ply board or the bed of a wheelbarrow as a mortar board.
Always wet the board or the wheelbarrow bed before placing the mortar in it.
 Never mix more mortar than can be use in about an hour and a half or two hours.
On a hot day, keep the mortar covered with a piece of plastic to hold in
moisture. Use as much water as the mortar will take and still remain elastic.
 Continue to stagger the blocks - working from the corners - and building the wall to
the desired height.
 Keep a levelling string at the top of each course on each run of block.
 Measure both the length and the height of the wall after each two or three runs.
Also, hold your level diagonally along the block corners to check for accuracy . If the
blocks are being laid accurately, the corners will strike evenly along a level held in
this position.
 After all the blocks are laid and while the mortar can still be pressed with the
fingers, take a jointer and finish the mortar joints to the appearance desired. Keep
the jointer wet during this part of the job
 Lay 1/4" reinforcing rods as illustrated, with the ends overlapped 2" to 3". Mortar
can be placed directly over the rods. If wood framing will be attached to the top run,
set an anchor bolt every 3' to 4' in the last run .
 If a load-bearing wall intersects with the outside wall, it shall be tied to the main
wall with metal tie bars . Bars as shown should be set in place on at least every
other run.

Division 5: METALS

 Use quick set lock for all door lock set.

 Staircase balustrade¼”x 2” flat bar with 2”x2” tubular steel.
 Door hinges 4” x 4” loose pin hinge for all doors and 1 ½” x 1 ½” for
cabinet and shelves.
 Use Master Lock Ball knob brass finished for every door lock set.
 For installation of door knob,refer to Master Lock Installation Manual.

Door Hinges Installation

Procedures:

 Place hinges in the correct location. One hinge is located 7-inches from
the top of the door frame, and the other hinge is located 11-inches from
the bottom of the door frame. Measure this distance and mark the
location on the frame.
 Trace around the hinge. Put hinge in place on the door and the jamb, and
use a carpenters pencil to trace around the hinge. Additionally, make
note of the depth of the hinge on the jamb. Double check to make sure
that the outlines match the same location on the door and jamb, before
moving to the next step. Then, use a box-cutter to score the outline; this
will make it easier to cut the mortise.
  Cut the mortise. Use a very sharp chisel and a hammer. Carefully tap the
chisel into the jamb from the side, to remove thin strips of wood. Make
sure not to cut the mortise too deep, as this will cause the hinge to
become loose over time. Cut out only the outlined area and the marked
depth.
 Mark the location of the screws. Replace the hinge back in the jamb to
the cutted mortise. Use pencil to mark the location of the screws in the
jamb. Do the same with the location of the hinge on the door. Remove
the hinges when marking is done.
 Drill the pilot holes. Use screwdriver to drill the pilot holes in the location
of the screws marked on the jamb. Tap them lightly in first, to make sure
the screws don’t accidentally move out of place.
 Install the individual hinges. Put the hinges back in their places, and use a
screwdriver to secure them individually into the jamb and the door.
 Connect the door to the jamb. Hold the door in place, using shims under
the bottom to support it if necessary. Line up the two hinge plates so that
the ones on the door match the ones in the jamb. Slide the hinge pins into
place, and remove the shims from the door. Test the door to make sure it
works, and finished.

Division 6: WOOD AND PLASTICS

 Rough Carpentry - sound and thoroughly seasoned Apitong or Yakal,

warp-free and treated with pressure impregnated wolman preservative
or approved equal for all rough carpentry works.
 Lumber - tanalized or wolmanizedApitong or Yakal for all hidden framings.
 Hardware fasteners - Metal nails, screws, bolts, other fasteners with size,
shape and type to ensure rigid and permanent securance of members.
 Stairs Handrail - solid Wood 3”x6” x 12”

Ceiling Installation

Materials:

 Good Lumber 2”X 2” X 8’

 Good Lumber 2”X 2” X 12’
 Hardiflex Plywood ¼ “ Thick
 Hardiflex Nail 1”
 CWN 2”
 CWN 3”
 Stikwel Woodglue
 Plyboard ¾ “
 Good Lumber 1” X 1”8’
 Bondo Wood Filler, Quart,20082

Procedures:
  Mark the location for the ceiling brackets. In general, a suspended ceiling should be 3
to 4 inches (8 to 10 cm) from the joists above to leave a room to maneuver the tiles
into place. Install florescent or other drop-ceiling lighting, the ceiling shall be 6 to 7
inches (15 to 18 cm) from the joists.
 Mount the perimeter bracket, or molding. This is the portion of the drop ceiling that
is attached to the wall. Use tin snips to trim the molding to the proper length and
attach it to the wall with nails or staples. Be careful to align both moldings when
reaching a corner.
 Determine the total number of tiles needed to bridge the gap by dividing the length
between the moldings by the width of the tiles in both directions. Cut ceiling tiles,it
increase the aesthetic appeal of the suspending ceiling by planning for equal-size
trimmed tiles on the outer edges of the room. Many manufacturers recommend a
minimum width of 6 to 9 inches (15 to 23 cm) for any trimmed tiles.
 Prepare to install the joists. Determine the location for the joists (the wood supports
that cross the room) and use a chalk line to mark the joists. Continue this step by
continuing across the room, snapping chalk lines every 4 feet (1.2 m).
 Install the joists. Use metal nail 1” and wire to suspend the runners from the joists.
Use taut string run between the moldings to level the runners before tightening
them with the wire. Some runners snap together and do not require trimming.
Continue installing runners until running the length of the room every 4 feet (1.2 m).
 Install cross tees. Typically, the cross tees that complete the gird snap into place. The
number of tees needed depends on whether the drop ceiling installation uses 2 by 2
or 2 by 4 foot tiles.
 Install the ceiling tiles by tilting them slightly and then sliding them into place.

Division 7: THERMAL AND MOISTURE PROTECTION

 Ga # 24 Colored roofing with design color to be approved by the Architect.

 Flashings, ridge rolls and gutter shall be conformed to the color scheme and design
of roofing materials.
 Roofing sheet shall be long span and have a minimum overlap of 0.30 meters as per
specified for long span roofing.
 Roof Framing shall be steel truss type. Red Oxide Primer shall be applied to truss
members for rust protection.
 All welding joints shall be full weld.

Truss

Materials:

 C-Shape 2” X 6” X 6m.
 C-Shape 2” X 6” X 6m.
 Angle Bar 2” X 2” X 3/16” X 6m.
  Flat Bar 3/16”X 2” X 6m.
 Wooden Fascia 1” X 8” X 10’
 Welding Rods 1/8
 Red Oxide Primer

Roof

Materials:

 Pre-painted Long Span Roofing(Rib-Type-Gauge 0.400)

 Pre-painted G.I. Gutter
 Pre-painted G.I. Flashing
 Pre-painted G.I. Ridge Roll

Procedures:

 Prepare a work site. In order to make an installation , it is important to have a well-

organized work area. A large bin for trash (old roofing and debris), a place for tools,
and your scaffolding or ladder set up shall be prepared.

-Make sure that if you are using electric tools that none of the chords are in the way.

-Store the material in a readily accessible area, protected from the weather. The
panels are weather-proof but staining can occur if left open to moisture.

 Install the edging. The edging, or eave flashing, is metal strips that are used to cover
the perimeter of the roof. Use 1¼ inch nails to secure the flashing to the roof. It shall
overlap the edge of the gutter
 Add the metal panels. Always begin working at the longest peak to eave point of the
roof. Take the first sheet of metal and place it on the roof so that it overhangs the
edge at least ¾ of an inch. This panel must be aligned perpendicular (square) to the
edge.

- Use neoprene washer head screws to secure the metal to the sheathing. Space the
screws about 12 inches apart down the entire piece of metal.

- Make sure that the screws are all aligned evenly,

-For exposed fasteners, avoid over tightening the fastener. Each fastener has a
durable rubber grommet that seals the roof from the weather. Tighten the fastener
just enough to seal the site. If over tighten and the grommet is displaced, remove
and replace.

-Continue installing the metal panels, making sure that the edges overlap at lease
one inch, or as required, with the adjacent panel. Do this until the entire roof is
covered. Lay a bead of 100% silicone or adhesive silicone before laying the sheet
 down and make sure the bead is towards the edge of the bottom sheet. This will
allow the silicone to squeeze out towards the edges, making it a more tight seal.

 Add the flashing. This is the metal trim similar to the eave flashing, except that it is
placed over joints in the roof where different sections meet. This shall be used in
valleys (points where two sections less than 140 degrees meet) and as end caps over
the tops of two sides that meet. Be sure to cut this metal at the correct angle before
installing it.

-The flashing can be bent into a ‘V’ shape to fit over the top of a section (ridge) of a
roof.

-Depending on how wide the flashing is, use one or two rows of screws.

 Finish the roof. Cover the entire roof with the metal, that all edges are smooth and
finished, and that there are no loose pieces. Clean up all remaining metal, nails, and
screws.

Division 8: DOORS AND WINDOWS

 Doors - Panel door, Hollow core Flush door, Tanguile Panel Door for main entrance.
 Protect doors adequently from scratches and other stains with heavy building paper.
 Windows - Vinyl casement attached by nailing pins.
 Glazing – Clear glass(common),Clear Glass(fixed) and Tinted Glass that allows 30%
natural sunlight (T&B)

Materials:

 Tanguile Panel Door(main)

 Flush Door
 PVC Door (T&B)
 Cabinet Door (kitchen)
 Double Whole French Door (master bedroom)
 Metal Hinges
 Metal Screws

Doors

Procedures:

 The rough opening needs to be a minimum of 1 inch (2.54cm) wider and taller than
the outside of the door system you'll be installing.
 Check rough opening and the subsill (the section of the floor under which the sill will
rest) is level. If needed, use shims or a beveled board to level it.
 Apply two thick beads of caulk, along the front and rear edges of the subsill, where
the sill will be placed. Continue applying the caulk approximately 2 inches (5.08cm)
up the sides of the rough framing.
 Insert the door into the opening. Place the bottom of the door first, tilting the top
out toward you, then slide the door into place.

Center the door in the opening, and assure that the frame fits snugly into place at
the bottom of the opening.

 Proceed to shim the rest of the door frame, as needed, to assure a snug fit.
 Place shims on the hinge side of the door, behind any points where hinges will be
attached to the door frame. The door will be secured to the rough opening in these
areas.
 Arrange the shims and the frame assembly, on the hinge side of the door, until it is
plumb in both directions.It shall have continuous gap of about 1/8 inch (0.3175cm)
between the edge of the door and the jamb.

After you've made all of the necessary adjustments, secure the door temporarily,
using 16 ø finishing nails. Lightly drive the nails through the hinge jamb, near where
the hinges will be installed. Don't put the nails all the way in.
 Test the swing of the door. The door shall open and close smoothly.
 Verify from the outside, that there is even contact between the door front and the
weatherstripping on the section of the frame opposite of the hinge jamb. If
necessary, make adjustments by moving the jamb in or out, at the top or the
bottom.
 Inspect the edges of the inside face of the door. Be sure that there is a continuous
gap of 1/8 inch (0.3175cm) between the door edges and the jamb, all the way
around the door.
 Place a solid shim behind the site of the lock strike.
 Secure the jambs. Drive 3 inch (7.62cm) screws through the shims at the hinge sites
on the hinge jamb. Secure the remaining jambs all the way around the door, always
driving the screws or nails through the shims. Verify occasionally that the door
assembly is remaining properly adjusted. Install the lock strike, putting the screws
through the shim.
 Finish the job by installing loosely packed, fiberglass insulation around the edges of
the door frame. Install interior trim, following the manufacturer's instructions. Apply
paintable caulk along all of the joints and intersections of the trim and the brick-
mold.

Windows

Materials:

 Clear glass(common),
  Clear Glass(fixed)
 Tinted Glass that allows 30% natural sunlight (T&B)
 Polyurethane Foam

Procedures:

 Check the rough opening. Measure the width of the rough opening at the top,
middle, and bottom and the height at both sides and in the middle.

If the difference between the three width measurements or the three height
measurements of the rough opening is more than 1 inch, cut tapered filler strips
from stud stock and nail them to the sides of the opening that are out of level or out
of plumb.

Check the outside dimensions of the window are at least ¾-inch narrower and ½-inch
shorter than the smallest width and height measurements, respectively. If not,
reframe the opening or order a new window.
 Protect against water infiltration. Cut a 6-inch-wide strip of self-adhering
waterproof membrane (or a 9- to 12-inch-wide strip of 15-pound builder's felt) 18 to
24 inches longer than the window's width. Center the membrane under the rough
opening and adhere it to the existing builder's felt or house wrap. Make sure its top
edge doesn't extend above the edge of the opening.

Cut two more strips of membrane (or felt) 1 foot longer than the height of the
opening. Center and attach them along each side of the opening, overlapping the
strip under the window.

Cut another strip of membrane (or felt) 1 foot longer than the window is wide;
center and attach it across the top of the rough opening so that it overlaps the two
side strips.
 Install the window. Fold out the window unit's nailing fins to become perpendicular
to the sides of the window frame. Then set the window's sill into the bottom of the
rough opening, and tip the frame into the opening until all the nailing fins are tight
against the wall.

Ask for assistant stand inside to tell when the gaps between the sides of the window
and the jack studs are equal on both sides. Tack the nailing fin to the sheathing at
one upper corner with a 1 ½-inch roofing nail, but do not drive it all the way in.
 Level the window. Place a 2-foot level on the windowsill. Then hold a 4-foot level
against the window jamb on that side, and shift the sill left or right until the level
shows the jamb is plumb. Tack a nail into the fin at the lower corner on the same
side as the first nail.

Lay a 2-foot level on the sill, and adjust the free bottom corner up until the sill is
leve. Tack the fin in this lower corner to the wall.
 Check the window for square. Double-check that the window is square by
measuring the frame diagonally from corner to corner. Measurements should be
 within 1/16 inch. If not, recheck the frame's side for plumb and the sill for level. You
may have to pull out the last two temporary nails and adjust the frame.

When the sill is level and the frame square, drive home the nails at each corner. If
the windowsill is level and corner-to-corner diagonal measurements are identical,
the sides of the window are plumb.

Holding a tape measure horizontally, measure the width of the window at several
places to make sure the side jambs aren't bowed. Push the frame in or out at the
center of the bow and nail the fin at that point. Then nail the sides, top, and bottom
of the nailing fin or casing, driving one nail through every other prepunched hole.
 Seal the perimeter. Cut a strip of 6-inch-wide waterproof membrane 1 foot longer
than the window is wide. Center it under the window and adhere it to the wall so it
covers the bottom nailing fin.

Cut two more strips of membrane 1 foot longer than the height of the window and
repeat the above process on both sides of the window.Check each strip's lower end
overlaps the strip under the unit.
 Install Window. Bend a piece of metal flashing so it overhangs the front and sides of
the casing by 1/4 inch and extends 3 inches up the wall. Fasten the top edge of the
flashing to the wall with 1 ½-inch roofing nails and cover it with a strip of waterproof
membrane long enough to cover the top ends of the two side strips.

 Insulate against drafts. Fit the sash into the window frame.

Inside the house, apply a single thin bead of minimally expanding polyurethane foam
to the gap between the window and the framing. Allow the bead to expand and cure
for one hour before adding more. Repeat until the cavity is completely filled.

Division 9: FINISHES

Flooring

 Dining area, kitchen, ceramic floor tiles, 0.40m x 0.40m (white) with Tangile insert
frame.
 All toilet and bath Mariwasa vitrified floor tiles, 0.20m x 0.20m verify color.
 Stair treads, ¾” Marine plywood with 6mm screw bolts.
 Portland Cement will be used in every mortar mixtures.
 ABC Cement Grout shall be used.

Materials:

 T&B (Unglazed Ceramic Tiles 8”X8”,Listel,Cement,ABC Cement, Grout: Verify Color)

 Ground Floor (Ceramic Floor Tiles 16” X 16”, Cement, ABC Cement Grout: Verify
Color)
 Second Floor (APO Vinyl Planks 4” X 36”,Acrylic Flooring Adhesive
  Counter Top (Glazed Ceramic Tiles 8”X8”,Listel,TileTrim,Cement,ABC Cement Grout:
Verify Color)
 Terrace ( Cement, Cement Grout)

Laying Down the Cement Board

Procedures:

 Install cement board first if dealing with just a subfloor. Plywood subfloor won't
bond as surely with thin set as cement board will; neither will it provide as even and
stable of a surface for the tile.

 Lay down some latex-modified thin set mortar onto the subfloor. Mixing mortar
from scratch, add enough water to the dry mortar so that the final consistency
resembles peanut butter. Then, let the mortar slake, or rest, for 10 minutes. Use a
trowel with notches about the same size as the cement board thickness to lay down
the mortar.
 Lay only enough mortar that can safely cover in about 10 minutes. This is the time it
will take the mortar to start hardening.

 Press down the cement board onto the subfloor and attach with cement board
screws. Starting in one corner, press the cement board down to the subfloor using
your own weight. Drill the cement board screws into the board to fasten the board
to the subfloor. Screw about every 8 inches around the edge of the board and every
10 - 12 inches in the center of the board.

 Continue laying mortar and cement board onto the subfloor, staggering the end
joints so that don't line up. For added strength, Check the end joints don't form one
continuous line. This means that laying one line of cement board starting on one side
of the room, and then start the next line on the opposite side of the room.

 Cut the cement board with a jigsaw or a carbide-tipped scoring tool. Cut non-linear
shapes out of your cement board, use a jigsaw and a carbide-tipped blade.

 Finish up by mudding and taping the joints of the cement board. Lay down a bit of
mortar with trowel, then press the fiberglass mesh tape into the joint. Then go over
the mesh tape with trowel, pressing it into the seams and locking it firmly in
the mortar. Smooth out the resulting joints.

Prepare for Tiling

Procedures:

 Clean the existing floor thoroughly with a non-toxic floor cleaner. Remove all glue,
dirt and existing mortar before start laying floor tile. The floor shall be completely
clean in order for maximum bonding between the tile and the thinset.
  Lay tile from the center of the room outward, which is important if dealing with
even-sized tiles. This method will create a nice effect in the center of the room, but
tiles in the edges of the room shall be cut.
 Conduct dry layout with tile and spacers directly on the cement board before laying
down the mortar. A dry layout will allow the visualization of the room as it might be
when everything is finished.

 Find the center of the room by snapping a chalk line in the center of the room
widthwise and lengthwise. Set up the chalk string in the center of each wall by
measuring the wall and putting the string exactly in the middle. Leave the string in
place after snapping it to use as a guide for the first few tiles.
 Lay down some floor tiles along one of the center lines to check marked the center
of the room properly.
 Line up boxes of tile and open each one. When laying the tile, alternate which box
you're pulling from to account for any variation in color among the boxes. If ended
with a very small or very large space in comparison with the size of the tile used,
move everything down so the extra space is about the width of a half a piece of tile
and snap new chalk lines to use when placing the tiles. Prevent to cut the tile into
small pieces to finish a row along the wall.

Tile Installation

Procedure:

 Lay down tile cement or thin set mortar where first section of tile will be placed.Use
the flat side of the trowel to key in the thin set, and then comb with the notched side
of the trowel with even horizontal lines. The goal is to have a nice even application of
cement or mortar for the tile to hold onto, and even horizontal lines grip the tile
better than random curved lines. Only lay down as much mortar that be can worked
within 10 minutes; otherwise it will begin to harden and become difficult to work
with.
If using tile cement, give it about 15 minutes to become tacky so the tile will stick
properly.

 Start laying the floor tiles in the middle of the room, lining with chalk lines. Press
each tile gently into the cement or mortar;Use a rubber mallet to do this after
completed each section.
 Put a grout spacer at each corner of the tiles. Butt each new tile up to, taking care
not to slide the tiles through the adhesive material. Wipe up the thinset that
squishes up between the tiles.

 Continue laying all but the tiles on the outer edges of the room. Then, measure the
space between the last tile and the wall and mark the tiles needed to cut. Use a wet
saw to make these cuts and install the cut tiles like the others.
  If you lay all the tile in the middle of the room first and then mark and cut your tile
afterward, you only need to rent the wet saw for one day, saving tile and money.
 Lay down smaller pieces of tile in the corners of rooms, back-butter the individual
tiles instead of messily trying to get mortar into the small nooks and crannies of the
room.

 Allow the tile adhesive to dry overnight, then remove the grout spacers. Some can
be left in place so check with the manufacturer to be sure.

Grout Application

Procedures:

 Mix the grout according to the directions on the package; usually grout is mixed with
water in a 5 gallon bucket. It should have a peanut butter-like consistency. Like the
thinset mortar, it shall slake for 10 minutes and then briefly be mixed again before
application.
 Use a masonry float to spread the grout into the spaces between the tiles, creating a
smooth surface. Float grout in several different directions to make sure working the
grout into the grout lines effectively and evenly.
Work quickly here. The grout sets up fast — considerably faster than the mortar
does.
For this reason work only in small areas before branching out.
 Remove the excess grout on the tiles with a sponge. Lend a small area to work on so
that the grout doesn't set up before having time to wipe it off the tiles .Use a damp
cloth after this time to rub away any haze left over on the tile. Let the grout set for at
least a few hours.
 Seal the grout after it has set for 72 hours. Use a grout sealer with an applicator
brush and take care not to get any on the tile itself.

Wall Finishes

 Interior –Painted ready to accept wall paper

 Exterior – Plain plastered cement finish, epoxy paint
 All toilet and bath shall have glazed ceramic wall tiles reaching the ceiling line.
 All paint products to be used shall be the Boysen Brand.

Materials:

Masonry Walls:

 Latex Paint (Flat)

  Latex Paint (Gloss)
 Paint Roll 7“
 Paint Brush 4”
 Paint Brush 2”
 Latex Color
 Concrete Neutralizer
 Patching Compound
 Sand Paper

Carpentry Walls:

 Enamel (Flat)
 Enamel (Gloss)
 Paint Roler 4”
 Paint Brush 4”
 Paint Brush 2”
 Paint Thinner
 Lacquer Paint
 Tinting Color
 Sanding Sealer
 Clear Gloss Lacquer
 Wood Stain Mapple
 Plasolux
 Fulatile

Ceiling Finishes:

 Exterior and interior ceiling shall be marine plywood finished in paint.

 Ceiling shall be painted with 3 coats.
 Overhang ceilings shall be painted in white.

Materials:

 Enamel (Flat)
 Enamel (Gloss)
 Paint Roler 4”
 Paint Brush 4”
 Paint Brush 2”
 Paint Thinner
 Lacquer Paint
 Tinting Color
 Sanding Sealer
 Clear Gloss Lacquer
Painting Concrete Walls

Procedures:

 Clean the concrete wall. For exterior projects, use a power washer to rid the wall of
all dirt and dust. Scrub the wall with soapy water and a scrub brush instead of using a
power washer.
 Repair any cracks or blemishes in the wall with concrete patch. Follow the directions
to mix up the concrete patch mixture. Fill holes and use a trowel to smooth the
patch to match the surface of the wall.
 Check the wall for moisture. Paint applied to a wall that is not properly sealed will
not adhere properly.

-Tape plastic sheeting to the wall. Attempt to get the sheeting as air-tight as possible.
-Check the plastic after 24 hours. If moisture appears within the plastic, immediately seal
the wall. If no moisture is present, the wall is already sealed.

 Seal the concrete wall. Roll on 1 coat of concrete sealer and allow it to dry overnight.
 Apply 1 coat of concrete primer. Use rollers or brushes to apply the paint. Ensure the
primer is applied evenly. Let it dry for 24 hours
 Paint wall with concrete paint. Paint shall be applied in at least 3 thin layers. The
paint may be sprayed on, rolled on or painted on with a brush. The paint shall not be
streaky or show brush strokes. Allow to dry for 24 hours.
 Roll on concrete paint sealer. Cover with 2 coats, allowing it to dry between coats.
Paint sealer helps the paint to adhere to the wall and last longer.

Painting Wooden Walls

Procedures:

 Spot-treat any holes, gashes, or other blemishes in the wall with spackle or joint
compound. Grab a putty knife or a trowel and hit any uneven surfaces with joint
compound, smoothing it out with a putty knife. Apply two coats of compound, as it
shrinks when it dries, so it's better to apply thick and sand down later than not
applying enough.
 Prepare the walls for painting by sanding. Use a fine-grit sander to go over all the
wall surfaces. Use random orbital sander, Reach hard-to-get-to areas with a pole
extension or a ladder.
 Clean the walls to remove any dust or residue.
 Apply joint compound to any grooves in the panelling. Use the sander to smooth the
joints until they are level with the surrounding panels. Wipe with a dry cloth to
remove any residue left by the sanding.
 Prime the panelled walls. Tape the edges around window and door frames as well
along the ceiling; then begin applying a coat of primer. Allow the primer coat to dry
for at least a few hours or overnight for the best results.
-Mix and aerate the primer adequately before applying to the wood paneling. Using and up-
and-down circular motion, mix the primer so that it distributes more evenly when applying
it to the panelling.
-Use a primer specifically designed for wood for best results. Many wood primers are water-
based, meaning that they dry relatively quickly (2 to 4 hours). This gives you less time spent
on the job.

 After allowing the primer to dry, sand it down briefly with fine-grit sandpaper. Use a
sanding tool for this, but don't overdo it, so might be better off just sanding by hand.
Sand lightly but evenly for better adhesion when finally covered with paint.

-Remember to rub off any sawdust or residue after sanding with a tack cloth or a clean
brush. Sawdust and grime are the enemy of a polished, professional look.

 Begin the painting process. Use a brush to cut in around windows, doors and the
ceiling. Once the edge work is done, begin painting the walls using brushes, rollers or
paint sprayers. Apply an even coat and allow it to dry for a day or so before
evaluating.
 Apply a second or third coat. Inspect the paint and make sure it is completely dry
before moving furniture back into the room.

Division 15: MECHANICAL

Plumbing and Sanitary Works

 PVC pipes for sanitary line piping must be properly sloped.

 Use UPVC pipes for waterline piping and fittings.
 Provide adequate drainage as necessary on bathroom floors and areas exposed to
water and rain.
 Installation shall be under the supervision of duly registered Master Plumber.

Fixtures

a. Water closets - Saveflush, SF Skylark WC- CS 1304 TL.

b. Lavatories - Saveflush, swallow wall hung lavatory 3107

c. Kitchen sink - Stainless, double bowl

Fittings and Accessories

a. Lavatory Kohler K-6019 Antique water

Guard lever handle lavatory
Faucet with washerless
 ceramic cartridges, flexible
connectors, coupling
connectors, coupling nuts,
pop-up drain with 1 ¼”
tailpiece

b. Kitchen Chrome-plated kitchen sink

faucet, submit sample for
approval
Water supply system

Neltex pipe and fiitings or an approved equal for all piping installations unless
otherwise specified.

Sanitary Disposal System

Neltex pipe and fittings or an approved equal for all sanitary

installations unless otherwise specified.

Storm Drainage System

Neltex PVC downspouts or an approved equal with standard couplings

and connectors at joints as well as regular concrete pipes approved by the
DPWH with size as required.

Septic Tank

Materials:
 Cement
 Fine Sand
 Gravel
 Plywood
 Deformed Bars
 Solvent
 Tie Wires
 4” diameter PVC Pipe
 4’”diameter PVC Tee
4’”diameter PVC Elbow

Procedures:

 Make a layout of the Septic Tank. Pinpoint it properly and dig the certain part.
 After excavation, do the foundation and footing with the rebar.
 Cover the upper surface of the septic tank.
 Septic tank should have at least two compartments: one for the solid waste and the
other one for the liquid wastes when the first tank is full the latter is called the
overflow tank.
Cold waterline installation

Materials:
 Solvent
 Elbow
 Tee

 ½ diameter PVC

Sewage line installation

Materials:
 Cement
 Fine Sand
 Gravel
 8” diameter concrete pipe or 6” diameter PVC Pipe
 4” thick CHB

Procedures:

 Excavate an area from the septic tank’s overflow to drainage or main canal.
 Connect the overflow from the drainage using an 8” diameter concrete pipe or 6”
diameter PVC pipe going to the main drainage. The main hole provided will be the
opening when you want to check or clean the sewage line.

Vent line installation

 Materials:
 Solvent
 Elbow
 Tee
 2” diameter PVC Pipe

Procedures:

 Cement the vent line to the PVC Pipe of the lavatory going outside the structure. It
should remain open.

Storm drain installation

Materials:
 Cement
 Fine Sand
 Gravel
  4”-5” Thick CHB
 8” diameter Concrete Pipe

Procedures:

 Connect all the downspout to the catch basin installed in every corner of the structure.
 Connect them to the big diameter of the pipe going to the main drainage. It should be

installed elevated.

 Catch basin should be made out of 4” or 5” thick CHB and a grill-type cover.

BATHROOM FIXTURE INSTALLATION

 Materials:
 Cement
 Lavatory
 Water Closet
 Supply Pipe
 Sealant
 Fox Screw
 Tissue and Soap Holder
 Faucet
 Angle Bulb
 P-Trap
 Shower Head
 Teflon Tape
Procedures:

 Mark the right height of the lavatory which is 0.85m.

 Drill 2 holes for the lavatory.
 In fixing it on the wall, place the lavatory, faucet, strainer, and p-trap on its designated
drain outlet.
 Put the angle bulb and supply pipe over the lavatory
 Put sealant on every joint.

WATER CLOSET

 Mark the bottom hole of the water closet.

 Put was on the hole
 Drill two small holes on both sides of the water closet, then screw it to make it stand on
its right position.
  Install the angle bulb of the water closet and the supply pipe connected on the flush of
it.

Division 16: ELECTRICAL

 All wiring system shall be canceled in PVC conduit embedded on concrete and in
ceiling.
 All switches shall be National, Firefly, Royu or of equivalent quality.
 Provide convenience outlet as indicated in the plan.
 All wiring installation shall be under the direct supervision of a duly registered
Electrical Engineer or Master Eletrician.

 Materials:

 .Lighting and Related Fixtures - Shall be owner- supplied

 Wiring Devices and Accessories

a.National brand or approved equal ordinary outlets; cream

colored
plates, 220V.
b.National or an approved equal aircon outlet; three-wire
grounded
receptacle, heavy duty.
c.National or an approved equal weather-proof outlet; three-wire
grounded receptacle, heavy duty.
d.National switches; cream colored plateswit amperage required.

 Wires - Phelps Dodge or American wires and cables

 Conduits - Matsushita white EMT pipes, hot dip, galvanized general used
conduit, rigid steel G.I Pipe and weather cap for service entrance, or an

approved equal.

 .Boxes - G.I Ga. #16 with shape, size, finish and knock-outs as required.

 Circuit breaker with Main Breaker with branches - Westinghouse or G.E,

 bolt-on type circuit breaker

Procedures:

ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

Before Starting:

 Lay out the locations of all plugs, switches, and fixtures.

 Lay out all wall boxes on the floor directly under the location where they
will go.
 The installation must be calculated and a layout made to determine the

materials.

 Calculations depend on the total average schedule of loads.

 The more specific the layout the easier will be the installation. Indicate for
each

Area:

 Exact room measurements and fixed fittings.

 Location and number of materials.
 Location of power source and electrical boxes.
 Number of panel boards and load distribution per fuse.
 Location of transformers, voltage regulators, and service panel.
 Wire size and length according to load and distance to the power source.
 All specifications must conform to local building codes, ordinances, trade

practices, and manufacturers’ instructions.

During Installation:

 Install wall boxes using a spacer stick. Drill holes for wire runs. Drill one
hole in the top plate over every single wall box, two holes over every
double box, three over

every triple box, etc. even if you don’t think you will need them all. It’s
much
faster
to drill all your holes at one time instead of one at a time, as you need.

 Install headers for fixture that don’t install on a box, such as fluorescent
lights,

surface mount equipment plugs, thermostats, etc.

 Pull the wires to each circuit at a time starting with the home runs, then
the power
 wires to every location that gets not switched power, when you have not
switched
power to everywhere that gets it, then pull the wires for switches and
switched
power
to multiple lights. While pulling wires strip the cable from at least 6 inches
of
the
ends and install them in the boxes and staple within 8 inches at boxes.
Don’t
tighten
box clamps or install intermediate staples at this time. Pull all wires in a
single circuit
before moving on to the next circuit.

 Drill holes, pull home runs, and single fixture circuits like the washing
machine,

and 240 equipment.

 After all wires have been pulled and installed in boxes, install
intermediate staples.
 Make up grounds in single gang wall boxes.
 Install electrical panel and install wires into it including the cold water line
ground.

KITCHEN WIRING CIRCUITS

Refrigerator

 The refrigerator requires a dedicated 20-amp, 125-volt circuit.

refrigerator, while someone else may have a 25 cubic foot side-by-side
refrigerator that draws more power. A 12/2 NM wire with a ground is
required.

Range
 An electric range will need a dedicated 250-volt, 50-amp circuit. That
means it is needed to
pull a 6/3 NM cable or #6 THHN wire in pipe to feed the range. If it’s a gas
range, it
will only
require a 125-volt receptacle to feed the range although while in the
construction
phase.
Small Appliance Loads
  Atop counter top will need two dedicated 20-amp, 15-volt circuits to run
small appliances
loads.
Lighting Circuit
 A 15-amp, 125-volt dedicated circuit is required to power the ceiling
fixtures, can lights,
under cabinet lights, and strip lights. Each set should have their own
switches.
Safety Switches
 Switches shall have a quick-make and quick-break operating handle and
mechanism which
shall be an integral part of the box. Padlocking provisions shall be
provided
for padlocking in the
OFF position with at least three padlocks. Switches shall be horsepower
rated
for 250-volts AC or
DC as required. Lugs shall be UL-listed for copper and aluminum cable.

PANEL BOARDS-CIRCUIT BREAKER INSTALLATION

Materials:
 Panel board
 Circuit breakers
 Bus bar

Procedure:

 Furnish and install circuit-breaker panel boards as indicated in the panel

board schedule.
 The panel board shall be dead-front safety type equipped with molded-
case circuit breakers

and shall be the type as listed in the panel board schedule. Service
entrance
panel
boards shall
include a full-capacity box bonding strap and be approved for service
entrance.

 The acceptable manufacturers of the panel boards are square “D”,

general electric, cutler hammer, and Westinghouse provided they are
fully equal to the type listed on the drawings.
 The panel board shall be listed by underwriters' laboratories and bear the
UL label.
 Provide molded-case circuit breakers of frame, trip rating, and
interrupting capacity as shown in the schedule. Also, provide the number
of spaces for future circuit breakers as shown in the schedule.

 The circuit breakers shall be quick-make, quick-break, thermal-magnetic,

trip-indicating, and
have common trip on all multiple breakers with internal tie mechanism.