Documenti di Didattica
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2019
150
THE
20FOR VOGUE
2020 ART
• PEOPLE TO KNOW
• PLACES TO GO
REPORT
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25 8
NO TIME LIKE NOW
Celebrating her biggest year yet,
Kiara Advani is on her way to the top.
By Akanksha Kamath.
Photographed by Tarun Vishwa.
Styled by Fabio Immediato
26 6
DAYTIME DISCO
Call it a reaction to the doom and
gloom of the daily headlines or
attribute it to the start of the festive
season, but we’re reaching for shiny,
pretty things. With London’s bustling
Portobello Market as backdrop,
glitter goes round-the-clock.
Photographed by Aitken Jolly.
Styled by Ria Kamat
27 8
THERE’S NO PLACE
LIKE ROME
This summer, the fashion crowd
travelled to the Eternal City for
Fendi’s autumn/winter 2019-20 couture
show, the first without Karl Lagerfeld.
Creative director Silvia Venturini
Fendi talks to Anders Christian
Madsen about what the future
TARUN VISHWA
www.zoya.in | /zoyajewels
DECEM BER/2019
186
ARTIST
gets behind the return
of razzle-dazzle. By
Akanksha Kamath and
Ménéhould de
Bazelaire du Chatelle,
artistic director of
ANONYMOUS Priyanka Khanna Cultural Patrimony of
Hermès. It is also the
218 The way we wore subject of a travelling
60 Contributors match. Unleash the And it’s making him The real MVPs of a exhibition, Hermès
68 Ed’s Letter beauty badass within contemplative about woman’s wardrobe Heritage – Rouges
72 Letters with eye-catching being a genre-defying are the pieces that Hermès, at The
makeup. Plus, the writer today, finds have changed hands Chanakya, New Delhi.
VOGUE LOVES season’s must-have Shahnaz Siganporia over generations. We By Dal Chodha
80 Everything we heart timepieces asked three bloggers to
this month 132 Best on shelf interpret RI Ritu Kumar’s 232 All heart
VIEW The JCB Prize Modern Heirlooms To mark its 75th
VOGUE SHOPS 125 Story hour for Literature collection in three anniversary, the Jai
99 December equals Everyone’s favourite highlights outstanding distinct bridal moods. Vakeel Foundation
celebration, and arrives storyteller Neil Gaiman Indian writing. Author By Praachi Raniwala shines a spotlight
with extravagant end- is working on what and advisory council on children with
of-year parties in tow. might be his magnum member Pheroza 222 New York Minute learning difficulties,
Stay on trend with our opus, adapting the Godrej interviews For the Louis Vuitton one wristband
guide to key looks with cult-classic comic 2019’s winner, Cruise 2020 show, at a time. By Sheree
ALAMY
stunning jewellery to series, The Sandman. Madhuri Vijay Nicolas Ghesquière took Gomes Gupta
CLARITY GRADE
CUT GRADE
CARAT WEIGHT
CARLSBAD ANTWERP BANGKOK DUBAI GABORONE HONG KONG JOHANNESBURG LONDON MUMBAI NEW YORK RAMAT GAN SURAT TAIPEI TOKYO
DECEM BER/2019
285
GOOD GIRL
BEAUTY
285 Good girl
298 The big 10!
2019’s Vogue Beauty
Awards marked a decade
GONE BAD gone bad of celebrating the best in
Actor Bhumi Pednekar the business
takes a break from her
COVER LOOK raw, reel-life characters to TRAVEL SPECIAL
On Kiara: Shirt, Hermès. Hair: Gabriel channel our December 309 20 unmissable
Georgiou/Anima Creative Management. vibe—smokin’ hot. adventures and
Makeup: Subhash Vagal (Subbu). By Sneha Mankani experiences to sate
Nails: The White Door, Mumbai. your wanderlust
Photographer’s assistant: Jimmy. Assistant 290 Phone a friend
stylist: Ria Kamat. Set design & props: The science of skincare 338 Diary
Bindiya Chhabria. Production: Bindiya changes at breakneck 344 Shoplist
Chhabria; Divya Jagwani. Production speed, with opinions on
ERRIKOS ANDREOU
#OWNTHEPARTY
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Get to know...
Our contributors for the December issue
E R R I KOS A N D R EO U
Andreou shot Deepika
Padukone and Ranveer Singh’s
Lake Como wedding. Always
adding a cinematic touch to his
photographs, the Mumbai-
based photographer is known
to capture the emotion of his
subject through his lens. In
‘Good girl gone bad’, page 285,
he shoots Bhumi Pednekar in
December-ready party looks.
SA R A H K H A N
An award-winning travel
writer and former editor at
Travel+Leisure, Khan’s work
can be found in The New York
Times and Wall Street Journal,
among other publications.
On page 318, she vouches
for walking everywhere on A R AVA N I A RT P ROJ EC T
vacation, while on 332, makes A collective of trans, gender-fluid and cisgender
a case for Rwanda as your individuals, Aravani Art Project’s compelling work
next safari destination. can be seen in Bengaluru, Delhi and Mumbai. On
page 143, they create an original work for our Art
Report in collaboration with St+art India Foundation.
A N I TA K H E M K A
With a portfolio that has been
exhibited in Amsterdam, Barcelona,
Paris, Helsinki and London, Khemka
began her photographic journey
more than two decades ago. In 2005,
her work was turned into a German
film, Between the Lines - India’s Third
Gender. In ‘Best on shelf’, page 132,
she shoots the winner of the JCB Prize
for Literature 2019, Madhuri Vijay.
S H A H E E N B H AT T
Bhatt recently released her memoir, I’ve
Never Been (Un)Happier, and has worked
as a scriptwriter and assistant director in the
Indian film industry. On page 320, she talks
about a transformative self-care vacation she
took in Austria as part of our Travel Special.
SUNIL SETHI
A journalist, TV presenter and
columnist, Sethi’s work has appeared
in The Economist, Indian Express and
the Boston Globe. He has also hosted
Just Books, the weekly literary show on
NDTV and scripted documentaries
for the BBC and Channel 4. In ‘New
direction’, page 204, he talks to Tarana
Sawhney about her bid to open up
the art world just a little further.
T E N Z I N L H AGYA L
Lhagyal is a Delhi-based photographer
who has worked with Gucci and Puma,
and contributed to publications like
Platform and British Vogue. In ‘The
way we wore’, page 218, he captures
three fashion bloggers in designer Ritu
Kumar’s Modern Heirlooms collection.
K I M I DA N G O R
Consulting fashion editor at Indian
Express, Dangor’s work has also appeared
in publications ranging from People to
India Today. In ‘Fifteen going on finery’,
page 228, she talks to designers Falguni
and Shane Peacock about their landmark
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WE ARE ON
GIRL TALK
DOWN SOUTH The feature ‘It takes two’
Growing up in a film- in the October issue
loving family, it wasn’t introduced us to four wives
news to me that there is of south India’s superstars,
more to movies than chronicling their signature
Bollywood. Reading Vogue style and how they manage
India’s October issue it all. It was refreshing to
offered an insight into the see how these women are
lives of south India’s running production houses,
superstars. It was interest- raising children and paving
ing to see how Nayantha-
ra, Mahesh Babu and DQ Super south
STARRING DULQUER SALMAAN, MAHESH BABU & NAYANTHARA
their own paths.
Anupriya Sharma, Sonipat
Salmaan represent THE BEST OF KANNADA, MALAYALAM, TAMIL & TELUGU CINEMA
OUT LOUD
A FINE BALANCE ‘Enough is enough’
Reading about Rakul Preet in the October
Singh’s skincare regimen issue, a pertinent
in ‘Rainbow girl’ inspired read, had me
me to follow my mum’s hooked. It was
sage advice to not use on empowering to read
my skin that which I about the actors in
wouldn’t eat. Reading about the Malayalam film
how Rakul does the same, industry who are
and believes in clean eating fighting hard—the
and coconut oil rubs for that power women who
TWITTER FEED
Rishika Jotwani (@JotwaniRishika) Amulya Misra (@misra_amulya) Khushbu Shah (@Khushbu81482336)
Part of @VogueIndia’s #SuperSouth Loved Radhika Apte’s tell-all chat @VogueIndia’s feature on Aisha
#OctoberIssue, Nayanthara’s candid about being natural and embracing your Chaudhary struck a chord with me
interview about her work ethic, her early flaws, while also revealing her go-to beauty in appreciating the little things and
days in the film industry and her family tips with @VogueIndia #OctoberIssue. remembering that I am blessed. Aisha’s
was an intriguing read. @radhika_apte simple words are an inspiration to us all.
34
JOAQUIN PHOENIX dress and she—will be evergreen
transformed into the Joker
FINAL
SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
JLo’s jungle dress broke the internet (for the
LUST STORIES second time) and a child prodigy showed us
bagged an Emmy
nomination how to put the planet first—these are the 19
moments that defined 2019
12
6. Gully Boy became the official
Indian entry to the Oscars
7. CBD skincare was at an Timothée
5
all-time high
14
Chalamet
8. M Vanitha and Ritu Karidhal,
the Rocket women of India,
almost made it to the moon
9. Game Of Thrones came to
an end after eight years
JENNIFER ANISTON
joined Instagram THE BOY-MAN
became the new
Lady Gaga X GRETA THUNBERG style pin-up
15,140,542 likes Haus Labs sailed to NYC and got everyone
w we’re Instagram
jenniferaniston X And no talking about the planet
RAM
FRIENDS too. HI INSTAG
13
Harry Styles
Victoria
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11
Beckham Beauty
FENTY
ZAC POSEN became the first
shut down, and the new house from
style set mourned LVMH, since the
1987-launch of
80 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2019 www.vog STARS turned Katrina Kaif Christian Lacroix
beauty moguls X Kay Beauty
ES
15
DUTEE CHAND
became India’s first
openly gay athlete
17
MERYL STREEP’S scream
in Big Little Lies was heard
across the world
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egg ultraluxe sauce. By Carla Lalli Music
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Ingredients oil, a tablespoon
1/2 cup walnuts or so at a time,
(toasted and stirring after each
chopped), addition. Season
1/2 cup ricotta, it with salt and
zest of 1 lemon, pepper. Add a
BACK TO THE 1 garlic clove cup of the pasta
5,39,32,840 oth (grated), water to this
ers FUTURE The ’80s classic
An egg replaced
Kyl
the most liked im ie Jenner as will come back as a musical 2tsp oregano sauce and mix.
age of the year (chopped), 2. Cook pasta
4tbsp Parmesan, until al dente.
(grated), 1/4 cup 3. Transfer pasta
extra virgin olive into the bowl with
GREEN NOTES
Well heeled
India’s first eco music fest is here
Priyanka
Even the greatest line-up can Chopra
make you fear the queues for the Jonas
porta-potty, the jostling to see the Sex And The City fans
stage and the plastic cups left to rejoice—Jayna Lakhiani
litter the grounds. We can’t change Kaia is launching the Sarah
everything, but Bengaluru’s Gerber Jessica Parker brand of
Echoes Of Earth has changed Winnie shoes, under her com-
one of them. Fitted with a solar- Harlow pany Vivre By Jayna,
powered stage, recycled decor in India. Much like her
and free drinking water (to avoid Irina character in the show,
plastic cups and bottles), here’s a Shayk SJP loves a good pair
festival that even Greta Thunberg of shoes, evident in her
wouldn’t mind. December 7-8 collection of flirty heels.
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shirt, Zara,
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3. Her most memorable
walk: “Louis Vuitton S/S ’20.”
4. She paints.
5. She has also walked for
Lanvin and Prada
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Picture this. You take an early morning in Downtown Los Angeles as the skyline
drive up the Pacific Coast Highway with glitters around you. You’re in a city that’s
the top down, the wind in your hair. You equal parts dynamic and dreamy. A city
catch a wave or two in Malibu as the that is celebrated for its creativity and
sun rises over the Pacific Ocean. In the diversity. A city people go to make their
afternoon, you grab a bite at a roadside wildest dreams come true. You’re in Los
taco truck before stopping by open-air Angeles (L.A.).
luxury malls like The Grove for a The experience begins even as you
shopping spree. You spend the evening arrive at Los Angeles International Airport
enjoying dinner and drinks on a rooftop (LAX), with its swish stores and enticing
restaurants. As soon as you get here, you’ll
want to start ticking things off your bucket
list—Hollywood Boulevard, Dolby Theatre,
the famous Hollywood sign, Venice Beach.
It’s almost like a sensory overload—one that
you simply can’t get enough of. Whether
you’re a sports enthusiast, a culture vulture
or even a food connoisseur, this city has
something that will please even the most
discerning traveller.
of the most creative cities in the
country, L.A. is dotted with a
variety of museums, art galleries
and studios. Choose from the
Museum of Contemporary
Art (MOCA), the Museum of
Jurassic Technology, The Broad,
home to over 2,000 works
and the GRAMMY Museum,
with four expansive floors. Also
called the ‘Mural Capital of
the World’, L.A.’s storefronts,
alleys and street corners come
alive with wonderful works of art
created by diverse artists. If that
wasn’t enough, the city is also ENTERTAINMENT CAPITAL
home to historic music venues When in L.A., it’s easy to feel like you’ve
CULINARY CAPERS and exceptionally gifted musicians, as well as stepped onto the sets of a movie. This surreal
L.A.’s culinary scene is fascinating, to say new-age fashion designers who are pushing feeling is accentuated by the presence of
the least. Here, you will find everything L.A. into becoming the next fashion capital. some major entertainment studio tours—
from delicious Mexican and Korean fare Suffice to say that L.A. practically rides on Universal Studios HollywoodTM, Warner
to Chinese and Middle Eastern offerings. this wave of creativity! Bros. Studio Tour Hollywood, Sony Pictures
Think food trucks, juice bars, modern pie Studio Tour and Paramount Pictures Studio
shops, cafés, restaurants and wineries. ADVENTURE AWAITS Tour. Make sure to sign up for some guided
Better still, L.A. houses as many as 24 L.A. is a destination that boasts near-perfect tours to relive moments from your favourite
Michelin-starred restaurants! Remember— weather all through the year. As if that wasn’t films. L.A. is also the epicentre of the sports
this is a place that is blessed with a rich enough reason to visit, the city also offers universe, boasting popular, storied franchises
immigrant culture which is reflected in an abundance of exciting outdoor activities. and superstars across every major sport.
its food. Chefs here draw from their own Its 75 miles worth of beautiful coastline World famous teams such as the NBA Los
heritage to whip up scrumptious, never- means you can enjoy surfing, swimming, Angeles Lakers and Los Angeles Clippers
seen-before meals for guests. And if paddle boarding and even beach volleyball. call this city their home.
you’ve recently turned vegan, L.A. has the Surrounded by mountain ranges that often
largest number of vegan restaurants in the contrast the L.A. city skyline, you can set off Take it from us—Los Angeles is where it’s at!
country. Don’t leave without swinging by on a mountain adventure along hiking trails,
The Original Farmers’ Market, filled with go horseback riding or camping. Automobile For more information, visit
food stalls and gourmet grocers offering enthusiasts must visit one of the world’s DiscoverLosAngeles.com
sun-kissed produce. largest automotive museums—the Petersen
Automotive Museum and the Porsche
CREATIVITY CENTRAL Experience Center Los Angeles, which lets
If a good dose of art and culture satisfies you enjoy two to four hours in the driver’s
your senses, you’re in the right place. As one seat of the latest Porsche models.
ARCHITECTURAL DIGEST ` 200 NOVEMBER 2019
THE MOST BEAUTIFUL HOMES IN THE WORLD INDIA
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DRESSED UP
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STORY
HOUR
Everyone’s favourite storyteller
Neil Gaiman is working on what
might be his magnum opus,
adapting the cult-classic comic
series The Sandman. And it’s
making him contemplative about
being a genre-defying writer today,
finds Shahnaz Siganporia
ALAMY
sode arc and made his debut as showrunner. For him, it was to set it in the contemporary and that changed the way we
a eulogy to his friend, mentor and co-writer Pratchett, who told the story.” Gaiman isn’t the sort of writer who is clingy
died in 2015. “It was my way of dealing with my grief over with his original work. Instead, he revels in allowing the >
“As a writer you will spend a lot of your time before you tor of mythologies and worlds within worlds. Most of all,
make it, wondering: ‘Do I have what it takes to get there? however, he is one of the foremost storytellers of our time,
When will I get there? Have I got there?’ And then one day with or without the multitasking. n
It’s that time of the year. There’s a nip in the air. And those typically
festive feels hold you in a warm embrace. Whether it’s people dressed
in their winter sharpest (scarves, beanies et al), or colourful adornments
decorating shop windows (lots of bunting!) and restaurant facades, or
even twinkling fairy lights cascading down trees, draped over bushes
and twirled around lampposts, there’s a general buoyancy in the air
that’s typical of this time of the year. And it’s not just the decorations
and fairy lights. Given that these last few months are scattered with
a number of holidays, it makes for the perfect time to be home, with
your family, friends and loved ones, reconnecting, indulging in some
nostalgia and sharing a few laughs.
It’s time to celebrate 2019 in style, with those near and dear to you.
And what better way to reminisce, love and laugh than over a glass—or
two, or three—of chilled bubbly? This festive season, raise a toast with
two of Jacob’s Creek’s brilliant sparkling wines. Choose between the
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just can’t decide, take our advice and go for both! Crafted for those
with a taste for the finer things in life, these sparkling bubblies can be
enjoyed across a variety of occasions. A lavish Christmas reunion lunch
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Eve house party with your closest friends? An intimate dinner date with
your special one? Or even a casual rooftop sundowner with your work Jacob’s Creek Sparkling Rosé
colleagues? A flute of Jacob’s Creek’s sparkling wines promises to lend A good rosé is the perfect accompaniment for all kinds of festive
that extra bit of shine and sparkle to all your festive do’s to make them celebrations. And none more so than this one. The Sparkling Rosé, also
that extra bit special…not to mention, memorable! hailing from South Eastern Australia, is made from carefully selected
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Jacob’s Creek Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir thanks to delicate berry characters. The Pinot Noir characters are
Crafted by renowned winemaker Trina Smith, this wine captures evident in the fresh strawberry and red currant notes, while delicate
the very essence of a sparkling wine from South Eastern Australia citrusy notes are typical of the Chardonnay. And it’s this beautiful blend
and is a contemporary take on the usual sparkling wines made from of fruity berry and citrus notes that lends this wine a depth of flavour
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir varietals. The premium grapes that go that is simply unrivalled.
into this spirit are picked during the cooler hours of the night and early Best enjoyed… With chocolate desserts, strawberry cheesecake, tapas,
during vintage to help the bubbly retain its freshness and high acidic finger food, or even on its own
levels. A whiff of the Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir throws up mild
scents of lemon and red currant while a sip reveals nutty, citrusy flavours,
resulting in a wine that’s dry, crisp and well-balanced. For more information, visit Jacobscreek.com or
Best enjoyed… With tandoori food, tikkas, seafood, soft white cheese, follow #jacobscreeksparkling on @lovewinesindia on Facebook,
creamy desserts, or even on its own Twitter and Instagram
view
PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: NEETI MODGIL; PRODUCTION: ROHAN HANDE, JAY MODI, REVA GOYAL; LOCATION: HEBBAR’S HERITAGE HOME BY MODERN HINDU HOTEL
Prize. Her first novel,
The Far Field (Harper-
Collins India) has not
only won her rave re-
views, a captive reader-
ship and the JCB Prize
for Literature, but has
also announced a spar-
kling literary talent
whose journey has only
just begun.
It began in 2010: she
wrote a short story about
a daughter and a man
from her mother’s past.
Over the years, this grew
into the precise, insightful
and remarkable novel we
know today. In the book,
the daughter sets out on a
journey that brings her
face-to-face with Kash-
EXCLUSIVE
mir’s politics as she tries to make sense
BEST ON SHELF
of her mother’s death. But this isn’t just
a ‘Kashmir novel’. It’s a masterful ex-
amination of India today, alongside the
protagonist’s complex relationship with
class, society and sexuality. It rises into
The JCB Prize for Literature highlights outstanding Indian a tale about grief and loss, becoming a
meditation on the human condition.
writing. Author and advisory council member Pheroza The last month has been an excep-
Godrej interviews this year’s winner, Madhuri Vijay tional time for the debut novelist, who
won India’s richest literary prize and
became a first-time mother in the span
Photographed by ANITA KHEMKA of a week. Understandably, she tells >
PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: NEETI MODGIL; PRODUCTION: ROHAN HANDE, JAY MODI, REVA GOYAL; LOCATION: HEBBAR’S HERITAGE HOME BY MODERN HINDU HOTEL; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
become more authoritarian in nature
with being far away from such places. is not just to directly oppose authority,
but to celebrate freedom and pluralism
PG: Your book explores the con- and truth and justice. This, in itself, is
cept of broken families. What role a kind of victory.” The protagonist of
would you say your family has the shortlisted Ib’s Endless Search For
played in your writing? Satisfaction (Penguin Random House
MV: There are lots of pithy sayings India) has a journey very close to Ali’s
about writers and families, but the own, emerging victorious over self-
truth is I would not have written any- doubt, self-hate and anxiety.
thing, let alone a book, without the
unwavering support and encourage-
ment of mine.
MANORANJAN
PG: You seem to have kept away
BYAPARI was born in East Pakistan
(now Bangladesh) and later migrated to
from social media. How do you West Bengal. After pursuing various jobs,
represent your book in this world he joined the Naxal movement. While
of constant noise and chatter? in jail for his political activities, he taught
MV: I’m extremely fortunate that my himself to read and developed a passion
publishers in India, as well as those in for literature. He has since published
the US and UK, are committed to eight novels, four volumes of memoirs
doing exactly what the word ‘publish’ and over 50 short stories, all in Bengali.
suggests. They’ve made every possible His shortlisted There’s Gunpowder In The
effort to publicise the book and Air (Westland) is a fictionalised account
give it a wide readership. And while I
of the Naxalbari Movement.
recognise the fact that many writers
find solace and a sense of community
through social media, I’ve never been
drawn to it.
HANSDA SOWVENDRA
PG: As a young novelist, with a
SHEKHAR is an author and a
medical officer with the Jharkhand
book set in the current times, government. Despite the state banning
what do you think is the role of a his second book, The Adivasi Will Not
writer in 2020? Dance (2015), on the grounds that it
MV: As far as I’m concerned, the portrayed Santhal culture in a bad light,
role of writers—and of all artists—has he returns with renewed courage in
been the same throughout history: to his most recent novel—the intensely
remain a perpetual outsider, to pose moving and honest My Father’s Garden
inconvenient questions and to chal- (Speaking Tiger), a coming-of-age tale
lenge orthodoxy in all its forms. ■ of a gay Santhali man.
20 FOR 2020
fate of a Muslim girl from the slums
who, due to a wayward Facebook
comment, is branded a conspirator
in a terrorist plot.
Akbar: A Biography Madcap murder mysteries,
by Ira Mukhoty (Aleph)
The bestselling historian real-life tear-jerkers, memoirs
brings her vast knowledge
and extensive research of and more—Tej Haldule picks
the Mughal era to Akbar the most anticipated Indian
the Great, reconstructing
his life and reign in this reads for the coming year
3
definitive tome.
Amnesty by
Aravind Adiga
(Simon & Schuster)
In what promises to
Landscapes Of Loss: A Journey
be a typically witty
Through India’s Environmental Crisis by
addition to this modern
Arati Kumar-Rao (Pan Macmillan India)
master’s oeuvre, Danny,
In essays armed with photographic evidence,
an illegal Sri Lankan
Kumar-Rao examines the disappearance of
immigrant, wrestles
our natural habitats, from the Sundarbans to
with an impossible
the Thar Desert, while charting a pragmatic
dilemma—will he risk
course for our environmental future.
5
deportation to help
solve a murder?
Destination
Wedding by Diksha
Djinn Patrol On The Purple Basu (Penguin
Line by Deepa Anappara Random House)
(Penguin Random House India) The latest comedy
Based on real-life incidences, of manners from the
three children from the slums bestselling author of
of a nameless metropolis play The Windfall flings an
detective in a very real case of American desi into
disappearing neighbourhood kids a perfectly opulent
in this heart-wrenching debut. Delhi wedding, and
drama ensues.
Passage West
by Rishi Reddi
(Ecco Press)
This epic historical
debut novel draws
1
us into the lives of a
2
ragtag family of Indian
5
sharecroppers in
California during the
early days of World War Estuary by Perumal Shuttling To The
I as they combat the Murugan (Westland) Top: The Story Of
inevitable emptiness The once embattled PV Sindhu by
0
of sacrificing their literary superstar is out V Krishnaswamy
Indian lives for the arid with a satirical new novel (HarperCollins India)
embrace of the West. (translated from the Tamil India’s star shuttler’s
by Nandini Krishnan) that extraordinary journey The Malay
examines the fragile human from the humblest Ramayana as
condition in the age of beginnings to the translated by Harry
of technology. top of her sport, and Aveling (Writer’s
into billions of hearts, Workshop)
is sure to move, What makes this
The Parsi Kitchen inspire and motivate retelling of the epic
by Anahita Dhondy in equal measure. extra special is that it
(HarperCollins India) is an adaptation of the
9
The chef of restaurant Ramayana done in
SodaBottleOpenerWala the style of a hikayat,
fame details lip- Together by the traditional Islamic
smacking recipes from Dr Vivek H Murthy storytelling form of
her Parsi heritage while (HarperCollins) Malaysia. n
travelling and tracing her The first-ever Indian-
7
analysis on loneliness
and the damaging role
The Heart it plays in deteriorating
Asks Pleasure mental health.
18
First by Karuna
Ezara Parikh (Pan
Macmillan) Saw: Unravelling Our
The first-time Unconscious Bias by
novelist writes a Dr Pragya Agarwal
Hindu-Muslim love (Bloomsbury)
story between a ballet In the age of extremism of most
dancer and lawyer, kinds, the behavioural scientist
set in an increasingly and prolific academic explains
Islamophobic and unconscious biases, how they
anti-immigrant UK. affect our everyday selves, and
how we can overcome them.
N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 9 `1 5 0
KATRINA KAIF
WEDDING
GQ TRAVEL
SPECIAL
WHERE TO
GO NOW
KATRINA
KAIF
Making
Waves
PRESENT
X
REPORT
2019
ARAVANI ART PROJECT/ ST+ART INDIA FOUNDATION
ART
REPORT
MEETING
SPOTLIGHT
ART
REPORT
Takashi Murakami
at MURAKAMI vs
MURAKAMI in JC
Contemporary, Tai Kwun,
Hong Kong (2019)
TM: One year ago, I was at the peak of my Instagram usage. Door) and an
Now, less so. I listen to music on YouTube because it’s easier Excellent Day;
while I’m working and painting. It’s also easier on the eye. I Feeling Like a
use Instagram when I want to make announcements. But Power Man!
there’s some interesting things out there on social media.
But Are You Sure
You’re Okay?; So
Sometimes, I say stupid things on Twitter! Much Fun
(all 2019)
RM: What do you seek from collaborations?
TM: My collaboration with Billie [Eilish] is a very good >
ART
REPORT
“‘Superflat’
is about
how social
networking
creates a COVER STORY
St+art presents the Aravani
flatness of Art Project in a special
information” collaboration to create an
original artwork for
Vogue’s Art Report
ABOUT THE ARTIST
GUILLAUME ZICCARELLI; RK (IG: @RKRKRK); KEI OKANO; ©2019 TAKASHI MURAKAMI/KAIKAI KIKI CO., LTD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. ©FUJIKO-PRO; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Aravani Art Project is a trans-
example. She is 17 years old and I’m 57—that’s people and allies art collective.
a 40-year age difference. I was at a conference in It involves collaborative
Los Angeles with her and on stage I did some workshops and public art
projects to raise voices,
kind of crown acting [the artist made the ani-
awareness and well-being,
mated music video You Should See Me In A by and for the transgender
Crown with Eilish]. It was a big audience and a community and its allies.
great experience. I guess I like keeping things
new and fresh. That’s what works for me when ARTIST STATEMENT
collaborating with other artists. “Art for all might be a term
we stress on now, but it has
RM: Describe your artistic process. always existed. We need to
TM: Each piece has a different process. spread it now more than ever.
To realise the first Doraemon artwork was What we would also like to
a very challenging job. There are works (Top to bottom:) address through our process,
A Blue Sky! Like and through this cover, is the
that can be completed in a relatively short We Could Go On beautiful bridge between
time, but some of my paintings and sculp- Forever!; So Much art and activism. It is slowly
tures can take four to six years. It’s like a Fun, Under the Blue building a very unique visual
Sky; Doraemon
very slow chess game. I’ve found a lan-
Sitting Up:
culture and language, and
guage of my own for the years—it takes “Yoo-hoo, Nobita!”; helping with the ambiguity
time to think about the composition and Doraemon: Time between art and people who
colour. Sometimes, just honing an idea with Friends are not necessarily artists. We
(the thinking and researching) takes (all 2019) would like to add to it the
years. Then I sketch it out, print it and vibrancy that we live around,
put it on the wall. It takes time to concep- celebrating local artists, folk
artists, tribal artists, poets,
tually and visually produce the actual
writers, performers and art
painting. forms through this simple
collage of everyday artists.”
RM: Apart from art, what else is on the agenda?
TM: One of my goals is to constantly create films, animation
or live action. I want to create for children, maybe a movie
with a cute animation style. I’m still learning because I have
no skills in that field. ■
Exemplifying the best of both worlds, Privilege Suite is a signature bespoke service openness and acceptance are key. Having
Anuradha Gupta, Founder and CEO of for members who are industrialists, celebrities said that, the chances of people finding
Vows for Eternity—a New York based elite and very senior professionals. The Premium their life partners in arranged introductions
matchmaking service—is an empowered membership is designed for individuals who is significantly greater than limiting it just to
American Indian while being strongly rooted are extremely driven and accomplished. one’s finite social circle.
to her traditions and values. Anuradha’s
diverse background, along with an MBA More and more Indians are choosing What are some of the biggest challenges
and a degree in psychology, equips her in their own partners and opting for love in matchmaking ?
understanding different personalities—a skill marriages. Where does the concept of The biggest challenge and the greatest
that is critical in finding the right partner. arranged marriage stand as of today? reward at the same time is that people are at
In conversation with Anuradha Gupta... We, at Vows for Eternity have never facilitated the heart of what we do. It’s so important to
an arranged marriage because our members understand where one is coming from and
Can you tell us more about Vows for take between 10-18 months to get to know what they want from life—their dreams, fears
Eternity and your membership options? each other before taking the next step. It and insecurities. That’s why we don’t work with
Vows for Eternity is an ultra-premium, is only the introduction that is arranged, it’s biodatas. It takes time to understand someone
personalised and confidential global not that two people meet once or twice and and that’s why our search is very interactive.
matchmaking search firm that brings life have to say yes or no. Arranged introductions Also, sometimes people have expectations
partners together based on mindsets, values and love marriages is what we are about and that are difficult to translate into real life, and
and personalities. Headquartered in New that’s what all journeys are about—meeting the challenge here lies in being honest with
York City, it has a presence in Mumbai, someone, getting to know them and building them while trying to bridge the gap as much
Delhi and London. The members, usually in something sacred together. as possible.
the age group of 22-65 years, are affluent,
well-educated individuals looking to get Men and women, both, are increasingly
married. In terms of membership options, deciding to concentrate on their careers Anuradha will be visiting India and
before settling down. Is it tough to find a meeting with new members.
suitable partner after a certain age? For more information,
Anuradha Gupta
It’s tough to find the right person at any time. Call: + 91 997 173 1300, + 91 981 199 9029
But yes, definitely more so with age. That’s Office: +91 11 3044 6450
because with time, we become more set in E-mail: contactus@vowsforeternity.com
our ways as our ability to make adjustments Visit: Vowsforeternity.com
diminishes and become less tolerant of
differing viewpoints. But the most important
things in life don’t just ‘fit in’. We have to
nurture relationships for which, patience,
THE
ART
REPORT
FOCUS
eliance Foundation has been working my mother (Nita Ambani, founder and chairperson of the
towards enriching the lives of people Reliance Foundation and recently elected to the Metro-
through its work in areas as varied as politan Museum’s Board of Trustees) would always devote
rural transformation, education, sports, 45 minutes of her day to her dance practice. She always
disaster relief, urban renewal and art. encouraged my brothers and me to pick up something we
When it comes to art, the foundation like and pursue it with passion and dedication. For me, it
ys to protect and promote India’s herit- was sketching, painting and drawing. I still dabble in paint-
ustain it but also make it relevant to the ing every now and then, it helps me relax and gets my cre-
younger generation. Art, in its simplest and truest form, is ative juices flowing. Art, for me, has always been very in-
a way of expression. It is a metaphor for the times we live tuitive. I do not follow any trends. When I travel, I enjoy
in, a way of scripting and preserving the history of mankind. visiting museums, foundations, galleries and studios—that is
India has such a rich and glorious history of art, culture, how I connect with artists’ works.
and heritage. I truly want to make Indian art accessible
globally and make global art accessible to people here. We A CALL TO ARMS
need to demystify art as too many still feel that it is a luxury. The more I interacted, the more I realised that art
The true essence of art is to make it participative and inclu- exists in a bubble that most people do not have access to. I
sive, and that is our focus. Here’s how I relate to art, both believe that the democratisation of art is the need of the
personally and professionally: hour. It will help further its reach, enable the nurturing of an
artist community, initiate a dialogue for nuanced interpre-
HOW IT ALL BEGAN tations and make art more inclusive and relevant to this
TARUN VISHWA
Growing up, art in its various forms, was always an im- generation—my generation. In a country like India, which
portant part of our lives. I clearly remember, no matter has such diverse and distinct art forms and a large and
how long her day was or how much she had on her plate, young audience base, ‘art for all’ is the only way forward. >
ART
REPORT
ON THE AGENDA
Just talking about democratisation isn’t enough. So, at the
Reliance Foundation, it is our major focus to make art, both
Indian and global, easily available. Our collaborations, be it
the Phenomenal Nature: Mrinalini Mukherjee retrospective
held last year at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New
York and Gates Of The Lord: The Tradition Of Krishna Paint-
ings at the Art Institute of Chicago, have allowed us to take
Indian art to international audiences, where we have exhib-
ited both modern and traditional art forms of India. We are
now looking at ways of bringing global art closer home.
We’re also working towards preserving the con-
temporary and traditional arts of India by supporting
local artists and artisans. Recently, Reliance Foundation
commissioned Pattachitra paintings and Tarakasi arte-
facts from the cyclone-hit state of Odi- your race, religion, gender, caste, or identity. All that should
sha. It was our attempt to help the local matter is what you want to express, create and engage with.
communities rebuild their lives after the Art is an attempt and an endeavour to build something with
disaster. We also engage with the Pichwai the hope that it reaches and resonates with a diverse set of
artist community in Nathdwara, where people. One of the most beautiful things about art is that no
COURTESY MORI BUILDING DIGITAL ART MUSEUM: TEAMLAB BORDERLESS,2018, ODAIBA, TOKYO;
we help keep their art alive and bolster the two people will have the same reaction to the same piece of
livelihood of the artisans. It is important art. It allows for a freedom of expression and interpretation.
that art supports the artists, otherwise it For me, art is beyond just the pieces you own or the galler-
becomes unsustainable. ies you visit. It is supposed to creatively open up spaces for
citizens to access, participate and share.
SCOPE OF WORK AKARA ART; TARUN VISHWA; GETTY IMAGES; ALAMY; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
It is our aim to strengthen art in India, THE WAY FORWARD
and to provide a common platform for art- The last few months have been some of the most exciting
Phenomenal ists from all genres. I envision a platform and busy, filled with many firsts and learnings. It is almost
Nature: Mrinalini and a programme that builds a distinc- like working at a start-up. The art scene across the globe
Mukherjee was held tive community—one that ensures all art is ever-evolving and dynamic, and we have been meeting
in 2019, at the Met forms flourish in our country. We are also with brilliant minds from all over to figure out what lies
Breuer in New
York. It was the first committed to presenting thought-provok- ahead. We are excited about the upcoming initiatives of the
retrospective of the ing, contextual art that explores the ideas Reliance Foundation. On the agenda is creating a dedicated
artist in the US and and issues of our time. visual arts space in Mumbai that will exhibit shows from all
was made possible An important lesson I have learnt from over the world and become a catalyst for the country’s rich
by the Reliance
Foundation
my parents is that the best ideas do not be- repertoire of arts and culture. And through this multidis-
long to just one or two people, they can come ciplinary arts space we will celebrate all that India and the
from anyone and anywhere. That is also world have to offer, and will help build a community of art
what makes art so universal. It is not about lovers and cultural enthusiasts. ■
PICK
A few of Isha Ambani Piramal’s favourites
from the world of art and culture
ED ARTWORK
FIRST ACQUIR
d was a
of art I ever owne
The first real work given to me by my mother. It FAVOURITE
graduation present acey Emin’s neon series, titled TRADITIONAL
t Tr
was from the artis old Your Heart (2012), and it still ART FORM
Yo u I H
When I Hold place in my heart and ho
me.
ve ry spec ial My mother has been
holds a
a great influence on
me when it comes to
traditional Indian art
forms. She introduced
me to Pichwai, a
INSPIRED BY 400-year-old art form
Amrita Sher-Gil. from Nathdwara,
I admire her a small town in
incredible freedom Rajasthan. Pichwais
of expression. She mainly depict the life
was a true pioneer story of Shrinathji, the
who aesthetically child avatar of Lord
juxtaposed Krishna. They are a
traditional and celebration of love and
Western art forms. the universal theme
Since I have lived of acceptance.
in both India
and the US, the
duality of her work
resonates with me.
Start visiting exhibitions: Follow the likes: The Internet and life of world-famous artists expression, and I believe it is Read, read, read:
Create a list of museums and has opened art up to everyone. I such as Banksy, Yayoi Kusama essential to keep your creative I’m a firm believer in books
galleries in your city. Over time, love the Google Arts & Culture and JR, discovering new and juices flowing. Engaging with art opening up worlds you didn’t
start visiting them one by one. App as it brings you the best of emerging artists, and getting does that for me, and I hope that even know existed. From picture
Once you know the sort of art art and artists from all over. regular updates on current it can do the same for others. So books to books on art, there’s no
and exhibits that draw you in, Instagram is another great happenings in the art world. find a hobby—it could be better way to discover the rich
you will be able to customise platform to keep yourself Get creative: Creativity is one painting, doodling, writing or heritage and tradition of the
your experience. updated by following the work of the original forms of human making model airplanes. visual arts than through books.
ART
REPORT
I
TWO WAY
BY APURBA
NANDI
ACRYLIC ON
CANVAS,
2FT X 2.5FT (2019)
1,00,000
PALETTE ART
GALLERY
A brilliant depiction
of what it means to
be submerged in a
multitude, for Apurba
Nandi, this work is
part of a larger series
depicting people
moving in all directions,
inspired by his time
spent in the densely
populated city of
Mumbai. “I was waiting
for Mumbai to absorb
me,” he says. The
ensuing formations
became, for Nandi,
an enquiry into the
order of society and
an investigation into
one’s existence within
a social fabric. >
SELECTS
EDITION
Many notable art collections begin small, with people investing
time rather than money as they scour the market for affordable,
emerging artists. After consulting the country’s best galleries and
leading dealers, Rosalyn D’Mello curates a list of 25 contemporary
artworks by artists based in India that cost a lakh or less
ART
REPORT
CONSTRUCTIONS
(FORM)
BY CHINMOYI
PATEL
FOUND CONCRETE, FOAM,
CLOTH, THREAD,
28” X 8” X 30” (2019)
85,000, SAKSHI GALLERY AN-NISA ( THE
II
WOMEN)
Vadodara-based Chinmoyi Patel is BY ARSHI IRSHAD
III
interested in repurposing discarded
urban materials and transforming
AHMADZAI
them into pieces that play with the
notion of organic growth. “This work INK ON MUSLIN CLOTH,
is from a series of sculptures that 40” X 40” (2019)
are a playful and humorous study 95,000, BLUEPRINT12
on the changing rhythms of urban
life, development, and life in an
IV UNTITLED 38
BY JAI ZHAROTIA
ACRYLIC ON PAPER,
15” X 22” (2014) 95,000, ART HERITAGE
ART
REPORT
V UNTITLED
BY GAGAN SINGH
ART
REPORT
SHIVPARVATI IN LOVE
VIII
BY KANNAGI KHANNA
UP WARDS II
BY MARTAND
IX
KHOSLA
STEEL AND
RECLAIMED WOOD,
DIMENSIONS VARIABLE (2019)
95,000 EACH,
NATURE MORTE
ART
REPORT
X CUSTODY I
BY SUDIPTA DAS
XI
OTHER (14) too familiar to Das’s home town of Silchar, Assam. What
BY BUDDHADEV remains when everything one owns is washed away, is
MUKHERJEE human resilience; the huddled forms clutching the
tarpaulin for protection speak of both hope and despair.
CHINESE WATERCOLOUR, INK
AND GOLD DUST ON CHINESE
RICE PAPER, 8” X 8” (2013)
25,000, GALERIE
MIRCHANDANI + STEINRUECKE
XII
BRITISH SIKH SOLDIER
( VENOM SNAKE 3)
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THE
ART
REPORT
XIII
PORTRAITS
BY DEBASISH
MUKHERJEE
ART
REPORT
UNTITLED
BY SHOBHA BROOTA
XV
wool on canvas for some years. This, and the 11 others that form a
part of this series, are like miniature riffs—small, exquisite and
beautiful,” say the folks at Gallery Espace who represent Broota.
PERMANENT PAST
BY MITHU SEN
XVI
hyper-capitalistic art market and the
inspired by Ramana. Ramesh describes his current political regime.
works as “a tribute to and acknowledgement
of Ramana’s sense of inclusivity, both in his
life and his teachings.” >
ART
REPORT
DISPLAYING
BY MAHESH BALIGA
UNTITLED, FROM
MOUNT ANALOGUE
BY MADHUBAN MITRA AND
MANAS BHATTACHARYA
ART
REPORT
XXUNTITLED
BY LAXMA GOUD
WATERCOLOUR ON PAPER,
7” X 7” 98,000,
ART ALIVE GALLERY
LITHIFIED LIVES 20
BY SAVIA MAHA JAN
MAN READING AT THE COURTESY ART ALIVE GALLERY; TARQ; THE GUILD; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
ART
REPORT
UNTITLED
BY KG SUBRAMANYAN
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THE
ART
REPORT
PROFILES
Impressions Of
Lodhi by Yip Yew
Chong, Lodhi
Art District,
Delhi (2019)
ST+ART
Less than a decade ago, when art began popping up along the bylanes of
Hauz Khas Village in Delhi, we prided ourselves on having our own
Banksy moment. Glowing from that momentary glory, we posed, clicked,
Audacious, diverse and hashtagged, and moved on. Enter the young radicals Akshat Nauriyal,
borderline radical, its five Arjun Bahl, Giulia Ambrogi, Hanif Kureshi and Thanish Thomas, who
founders are responsible quickly harnessed this momentum to create a movement. In no time,
they became five threads wound together, forming a velvet rope that “in-
for making India’s street cluded, not excluded, all spaces and strata of society.” And so, St+art
art movement a spectacle India, named after their democratic hope for the country’s public art
COURTESY PRANAN GOHLI
to behold, reports scene, was formed in 2014. Aptly pronounced “start”, this not-for-profit
organisation found itself wandering over to the dark side—the
Karuna Ezara Parikh unexplored realm of street art.
We all know how it works. Take art out of a gallery and you either have
a legend or a bum. Most of the time you can be certain people perceive >
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THE
ART
REPORT
it as the latter. While the West has had a con-
(Clockwise from top) Plastic Ocean by Tan Zi Xi, Sassoon
Dock Project, Mumbai (2017); Mahatma Gandhi mural, text for street art for years, and long labelled it
Churchgate Station, Mumbai by Eduardo Kobra (2017); vandalism (though it is changing), in India,
Nature’s Arch And Visions Of Altered Landscapes by Li Hill, we’ve had none. That little piece of luck, of be-
Lodhi Art District, Delhi (2018); Auntie Maria by Deepak ing the first, very quickly began to work in
Sarsat, Cut Out Project by Hanif Kureshi, Goa (2017)
St+art’s favour. “Because of the lack of a
movement, graffiti never had a negative
connotation here,” Nauriyal says. That
lack was soon turned into potential. Dur-
ing its inaugural festival, St+art created a
Gandhi mural at the headquarters of the
Delhi Police. And just like that, the usu-
ally anti-establishment art movement be-
came establishment-approved.
That didn’t dilute its message, howev-
er. From the Delhi Metro to Telangana
Tourism, it often partners with govern-
ment organisations on projects, keeping
a remarkably fine balance between re-
maining political, maintaining artistic
freedom and throwing too-big-to-miss
social questions onto walls. For instance,
its work with the Aravani Art Project in
bringing transgender communities to the
streets to paint, or rehabilitating Tihar
Jail inmates via art.
The five founders share a common
vision to “re-imagine public spaces
through art, while providing a platform
for artists to freely express themselves.”
Over the years, they’ve made a rollicking suc-
cess of the one genre of art that questioned its
own industry, because, as Nauriyal gently re-
minds me, “Art is an industry often restricted
to museums and galleries.”
From Delhi’s Shahpur Jat and Lodhi Colony
to Mumbai’s Sassoon Docks and the narrow
lanes of Dharavi, and from the highroads of Hy-
derabad to the bylanes of Goa and Patna,
St+art is spreading its message
all over. Nauriyal sums up its
agenda perfectly via one ques-
tion: “What do spaces mean to
people—and how can art be
used to bring people into
those spaces?” So, what’s next?
“Sleep?” he quips, and you get
the feeling they haven’t rested
since St+art began half a dec-
ade ago. How else does one ex-
plain the prolific output of stir-
ring projects over such a short
time? The five of them have
traded parchment and canvas
for cityscapes, creating a revolu-
tion of sorts. Watch out—
they’re coming to a wall near
you, if they haven’t already. >
ART
REPORT
Be it the Tate Modern in London, the Centre
Pompidou in Paris or the promenade on Carter
Road in Mumbai, Shilpa Gupta’s work is con-
sistently talked about. Favoured among an es-
tablished coterie of art connoisseurs and
collectors, her artworks have been cov-
eted at the best galleries, art fairs
and biennales. However, she also
makes an effort to make her work
publicly accessible in an attempt to
engage with viewers who belong to
different geographies and sociocul-
tural backgrounds.
Take for instance her light installa-
tion, I Live Under Your Sky Too (2013), which
was pitched at the Carter Road promenade. At
dusk, the illuminated sentences in English,
Hindi and Urdu, stitched together the different
subcontinental languages. “All its elements
were part of the experience,” says Gupta, “be it
the sea in the background, which is a symbol of
migration, the fishing boats, a plethora of street
sounds, and the pace of people walking there.”
Gupta’s oeuvre is marked by inclusivity. Her
work draws focus on marginalised individuals
ART
REPORT
Crocodile
Installation (2015)
POWER
THE
LIST
X
2019
DESIGNERS. DISRUPTORS. ICONS. INFLUENCERS
ART
REPORT
In the few days that passed between thinking
about this essay and writing it, its subject cre-
ated a stir in the art world, as he routinely has
every few months for the last three decades.
Such is the ubiquity and potency of Banksy, the
British artist whose identity no one knows for
Very Little certain, despite the paparazzi’s dogged persis-
Helps/Tesco Flag tence to expose him for years. Many of his fans
(2008), mural in don’t even want to know the person behind the
North London moniker. They prefer the romantic, Robin
Hood-like Banksy to the flesh-and-blood figure
ICON
who is one of the most popular and recognisable
ARTIST
makers of public art in the world.
On October 3, Devolved Parliament, a paint-
ing by Banksy which shows the
ANONYMOUS
House of Commons packed with
chimpanzees in place of ministers,
hammered down at £9.88 million
(over 90 crore) at Sotheby’s in Lon-
don, breaking his previous auction
Banksy’s unique brand of ‘art for all’ has broken every record. He was quick to respond on
Instagram, with a quote by art crit-
rule. Three decades later, it stands true to its purpose and ic Robert Hughes: “But the price of
continues to disrupt. Here’s looking at the art world’s most a work of art is now part of its func-
tion, its new job is to sit on the wall
popular and revolutionary vandal. By Somak Ghoshal and get more expensive. Instead of
being the common property of hu-
mankind the way a book is, art becomes
the particular property of somebody who
can afford it…” A telling quote, cap-
tioned: “Record price for a Banksy paint-
ing set at auction tonight. Shame I [Banksy]
didn’t still own it.” Created in 2009, it seems
like a prophetic vision of British politics circa
2019 amid the mayhem of Brexit.
PUBLIC AFFAIR
While it is fair to describe this work and his re-
sponse as public-minded, it was with another,
more explicitly public kind of art that Banksy
entered the scene. In Bristol, where it is as-
sumed he grew up in a volatile, working-class
neighbourhood, Banksy began to create his
unique brand of ‘art for all’ in the 1990s. Armed
with cans of spray paint, a tool wielded by gen-
erations of graffiti artists before and after him,
Banksy painted across his home town with viv-
Rage, The id colours. His magic touch turned the familiar
Flower Thrower into something provocative, literally and meta-
(2005), mural phorically changing the writing on the wall.
in Bethlehem, Walls are useful structures for states to keep
Jerusalem
people apart. But walls also bristle with subver-
sive potential—they can act as a primal canvas
for the expression of emotions. Our ancient an-
cestors left paintings on the walls of caves, like
GETTY IMAGES
ART
REPORT
STREET STYLE
Although Banksy has described painting on
walls as “low-level dissent”, he did turn it into a
proactive instrument of radical protest. He in-
spired a younger tribe of graffiti artists, includ-
ing Delhi-based Daku, to harness the form’s
power. Not only did Banksy use art to revolt
against oppression, he used it to highlight the
foundations of capitalist greed on which the
business of art thrives.
As opposed to art preserved in temperature-
controlled museums and galleries, Banksy’s
work is left around carelessly, serendipitously,
exposed to the elements. It ambushes the view-
er in alleys and on street corners, and inside
mouldy subways and dilapidated buildings.
Depending on the beholder, his art either quali-
fies as vandalism of public property or shines
for its ingenuity.
While many of Banksy’s works have often
been scrubbed clean by civic authorities, some
have survived at the insistence of the public.
Since 2001, he has organised his own versions
of ‘exhibitions’. From the streets of London to
West Asia, the world is his playground. Banksy
has invaded the bastions of high art and got
away with it—in 2004, he hung Mona Lisa
Smile, his emojified take on the iconic master-
piece at the Louvre in Paris.
Although Banksy’s art belongs to everyone
graffiti of all kinds and document a people’s his- and no one, he has, at times, sold some of it
tory of rebellion from the grassroots. In a strik- through a cheekily named front called Pest
ing example of the latter, Banksy created Control. And while he may be the only ‘street
Walled Off Hotel in 2017, a hotel filled with pro- artist’ to command exorbitant prices, he hasn’t
vocative work, offering the “worst view” in the sold out to the market. In 2007, for instance, he
world: the 400-mile-long wall that runs along painted a scene where buyers are seen haggling
the West Bank, dividing Israel and Palestine. over a work that has one withering sentence
Banksy’s efforts bore the stamp of his singu- in it: “I can’t believe you morons actually buy
lar mind from the start. A girl holding a balloon this shit.”
(Clockwise from top) One
Nation Under CCTV seems to fly out of a wall. A street fighter is Last year, at a Sotheby’s auction, as soon as
(2007) London; Devolved poised to hurl a Molotov cocktail, but his deadly the gavel came down after the sale of his paint-
Parliament (2009); Mona arsenal turns into a bouquet of flowers. From ing, Girl With Balloon (2006), for a record price
Lisa Smile (2004) anti-war polemics to turf wars between the of $1.4 million (over 9 crore), it slid out of the
haves and have-nots, Banksy holds up a mirror frame and proceeded to shred itself. Banksy
ALAMY; GETTY IMAGES
to our turbulent times. Maria Popova, the cura- later claimed to have fitted a shredder into this
tor of Brain Pickings, admits that in spite of work. Just when the elite ecosystem of art buy-
what may seem to be his “ego-driven prank(s)”, ers and sellers were feeling smug about owning
Banksy “challenges our relationship with art a Banksy, the artist of the people deflated their
and makes us question.” mood with one revolutionary pinprick. ■
ART
REPORT
BEYOND
BINARIES
This need to create all-
inclusive spaces, with a
strong sense of commu-
nity, is a shared goal of
VIEWPOINT
EVERYONE’S
many new initiatives that
have stopped waiting for institutional support.
But we are aware of our shortcomings: the
queer art scene, just like queer activism, has
INVITED
been primarily male-dominated. However, with
increased awareness of intersectionality and
pop culture representation, like the TV series
Pose, fem and trans voices are slowly coming to
the forefront. Closer home, the Aravani Art Pro-
Is there queer representation in the Indian art ject is a collective of womxn, many of whom
come from traditional Aravani communities in
world? Are there safe spaces, inclusive agendas, Karnataka. Painting murals as a statement to
and a real sense of community? Curator claim public space, the collective has worked on
several walls across the country, and even one at
Shaunak Mahbubani attempts to find answers Facebook’s headquarters in San Francisco. Art-
ist Shanthi Muniswamy says, “The project has
given us a positive way to build bridges between
For one evening in early September this year, the Goethe-Institut Max the trans community and society at large.”
Mueller Bhavan in Delhi dropped its gender-segregated frisking system “Queerness has never been given space in in-
and changed its traditional girl/boy washrooms to include all genders. stitutions; it has never been considered impor-
The space, a hotbed between the capital’s cultural ecosystem and queer tant,” says Suresh Jayaram, founder of 1Shan-
SIGNE VILSTRUP
movement, was transformed. Think UV lighting and electronic music thiRoad in Bengaluru. The independently-run
alongside a non-binary makeup workshop, performances, poetry, drag space has been a haven for queer artists in the
kings, and gender non-conforming DJs disrupting the institution and de- country, whom it supports via exhibitions >
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REPORT
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REPORT
PICK
TAKE IT OUTSIDE
Public art in India has moved beyond commemorative statues to include provocative
protest art, culturally significant murals and true-to-life installations. Here are five
recent works that we can’t stop talking about. By Maanya Sachdeva
THE TOXIC CHAMBER BY ARUNKUMAR WHY BY DAKU
HG (2019) GURUGRAM, DELHI NCR (2019) HUSSAIN SAGAR
Part of the Gurgaon Interactive Public Art project by LAKE, HYDERABAD
the citizen-led collective I Am Gurgaon and gallery Street artist Daku, dubbed
ArtPilgrim Live, The Toxic Chamber is a large cave- India’s Banksy, in collaboration
like structure that sculptor Arunkumar HG fashioned with St+art India used three
from automobile parts, recycled PET bottles, lakh recycled plastic bottles to
e-waste and discarded plastic chairs. His goal was to create a giant question mark in
use everyday objects to create an installation that an attempt to draw attention to
viewers could step into, prompting them to reflect our massive plastic problem and
on the practice of unchecked consumption. start a meaningful conversation
around waste, highlighting the
need for its proper disposal.
MISSING
BY LEENA
KEJRIWAL
(ONGOING
SINCE 2014) INDIA’S FIRST
ACROSS INDIA STREET ART CITY
This project BY MULTIPLE ARTISTS
combines art, (2019) PRAYAGRAJ
technology and In one of the largest
photography examples of public art the
to combat sex country has ever seen,
trafficking. It Delhi Street Art, a city-
was unveiled at based initiative, covered
India Art Fair three lakh square feet
(2014), when of the walls of Prayagraj
Kejriwal presented (formerly Allahabad) with
towering
WHO AM I? KNOW ME! I EXIST.. graffiti and murals and
representational BY ARAVANI ART PROJECT (2018) turned it into the country’s
black cut-outs of SONAGACHI, KOLKATA first ‘street art city’. Notable
young girls. Asia’s largest red light district is marked by an works include a portrait of
impressive mural of a transgender sex worker on the Harivansh Rai Bachchan
GETTY IMAGES
building that houses the Durbar Mahila Samanwaya and a depiction of the route
Committee, the organisation that provides of the Ganges on the walls
healthcare to the sex workers of Sonagachi. of the Civil Lines flyover. n
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THE
ART
REPORT
EXPERTS
SOLEIMANI. PRODUCTION: MOXIE PRODUCTIONS. MOVEMENT DIRECTIONS: CELIA ROWLSON-HALL. LOCATION COURTESY:
PHOTO: MARTIN PARR/ MAGNUM PHOTOS. STYLING: ALEX HARRINGTON. HAIR: RECINE FOR RODIN. MAKEUP: ROMY
THE MUSEUM OF MODERN ART. © 2019 ESTATE OYF PABLO PICASSO/ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY(ARS) NEW YORK
Inside the
Museum of
Modern Art
(MoMA) in
New York
PLAYING TO
THE GALLERY
From curated walks to programmes “My four-year-old could have made that” is a mocking decla-
ration often issued on modern and contemporary art. The
targeting new collectors and younger observation could well be in the context of a square canvas
artists, the great ‘white cube’ seems painting with a solid black circle and four colourful corners,
to have realised that it needs to reach or fine graphite lines running across a blank sheet of paper.
out in order to remain relevant, Never mind that these describe significant works by
celebrated artists SH Raza and Nasreen Mohamedi,
finds artist and writer Rahul Kumar respectively. The latest Martin Scorsese flick, the last
Margaret Atwood novel, even the time-travelling expecta-
tions of the next Met Gala—most creative disciplines make
it to drawing room conversations and popular culture,
but visual art remains on the periphery. Barely known >
ART
REPORT “OUR AIM IS
TO NURTURE
for a deeper interaction with experts CREATIVITY IN AN
and an environment that is welcoming, AUDIENCE THAT
even for the uninitiated.” HAS NEVER VISITED
and seemingly inaccessible. But to in- WALK THE TALK
A GALLERY BEFORE”
crease the acceptance and patronage Curated walks alongside regular exhi- —BHAVNA KAKAR,
for contemporary art, it is paramount GALLERIST, LATITUDE 28
bitions are now the norm. Latitude 28
to make it more accessible and less organises workshops and public walks
intimidating. And the art fraternity, to provide an enriching experience for
once a notoriously insiders-only world, children and young adults. Bhavna Ka-
seems to have picked up on this. kar, the owner of this Delhi-based gal-
lery, explains, “Our aim is to nurture who performed pieces inspired by the
NEW ARTISTS, YOUNGER creativity in an audience that has nev- art on display.
COLLECTORS er visited a gallery before. Workshops
A case in point is the initiative of en- that take them through the works on THE MILLENNIAL WAY
gaging young talent by Gallery Es- display have been hugely successful, In contrast, the 56-year-old Gallery
pace. The Delhi-based gallery remains and many of them are now regular vis- Chemould (now Chemould Prescott
committed to the artists it represents, itors.” Outreach is an integral part of Road), also in Mumbai, has played a
which includes stalwarts like Zarina how Kakar plans her exhibitions, and significant role in creating the land-
Hashmi. Yet, there was a compel- social media is her preferred channel to scape of contemporary Indian art. It
ling need to look at upcoming talent. create buzz. works with early modernists, as well as
“Younger buyers cannot afford the Mumbai-based Tarq, one of the some of the country’s best-known con-
price points of senior artists. It is im- younger galleries, was established to temporary artists, many of whom have
portant for them to invest in young create a platform for dialogue around achieved considerable success but have
artists, and then grow together. Our art and its myriad connotations. Hena begun to be regarded as unattainable
role is to educate and guide them in Kapadia, its founder, sees it as an in- and too expensive.
this journey,” says Renu Modi, the cubator that allows artists to push “There is a natural course for young-
gallery’s founder. boundaries. “For a more discursive ex- er artists, who tend to debut with some
Exhibit 320, also in Delhi, launched amination of the arts, our programmes of the younger galleries. The percep-
its Young Collectors Salon (YCS), are an amalgam of educational initia- tion of Chemould being ‘senior’, and
which promotes early and mid-career tives and forums for critical discourse, having artists who are ‘too expensive’,
artists from the Indian subcontinent. as well as creative partnerships that needed to be addressed. We tack-
While its clients include seasoned col- allow the art and gallery space to be led this by working with artists who
lectors and museums, the gallery hopes enjoyed for what it is,” she says. A one- would agree to create art within a cer-
to develop interest among the educated off Tarq event with The Poetry Club, tain price structure, potentially make
young. Rasika Kajaria, who runs Ex- Mumbai, blossomed into a full-fledged smaller-format works, or work in edi-
hibit 320, says, “Over the past 10 years, collaboration, titled Canvas Kavita, tions. This way, we did not ‘discount’
since our inception, we have witnessed where the club brought together poets the works of art,” says its gallery direc-
an active audience- tor Shireen Gandhy, referring
group, often in its to Modus Operandi, a show
mid-thirties, who that recently completed its
are interested not second edition. The initiative
only in collecting, was launched with a fresh fo-
but also in educat- cus on social media outreach
ing themselves on in a bid to target the millen-
art practices and nial demographic.
histories. Initia- Plenty is being done to nur-
tives like YCS allow ture a new breed of collectors,
but the gallery ecosystem
must continue to innovate
in our hyper-digital times.
Perhaps listings on BookMy-
Show.com and exhibitions on
Modus Operandi
Instagram might follow, or
at Chemould even art on Amazon—who
Prescott Road knows? >
ART
REPORT
ALL-ACCESS PASS
India will finally get its first inclusive
museum with Abhishek Poddar’s
Museum of Art and Photography, set
to launch in 2020. Art critic Bharti
Lalwani breaks down what this means
ART
REPORT
The world’s
work for designing an institution that groups of visitors? The team at MAP
is cognisant of its differently abled is in touch with its counterparts at the
visitors by covering all aspects of acces- Museum of Fine Arts in Boston and the top three
museums for
sibility, right from technology and Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) in
services to the actual physical space of London. Its newly appointed inclusion
the gallery itself. consultant is working on a report that the visually
LAY OF THE LAND
focuses on services across museums in
the US. So, inclusive programming is impaired
But what does ‘creating equal access definitely on MAP’s agenda. Its direc-
to opportunities in the artistic and tor, Kamini Sawhney, says, “We are COOPER HEWITT,
cultural sphere’ mean, beyond build- exploring various solutions for differ- SMITHSONIAN
ing ramps for wheelchairs? Poddar ex- ent types of disabilities, and creating DESIGN MUSEUM
plains, “We will ensure that all spaces tactile experiences of paintings is one in New York offers a
twice-weekly verbal
in the museum are easy to navigate by of them. We are studying the technol-
description tour called
installing accessible signage and using ogy currently available to aide visitors’ Access+Ability that is
appropriate technology. Keeping ac- experience in museums. We will then led by specially trained
cess at the forefront of the choices we select the most appropriate one for the docents. Join a Cooper
make regarding the interiors is para- type of art on display. Because what Hewitt educator in
mount. Exhibitions will also be made may be suitable to experience a photo- conversation and
accessible by having as many artworks graph may not work for a sculpture or explore a selection
as possible translated into tactile expe- a textile.” of objects through
riences, accompanied by audio and vis- MAP’s collection is divided into six detailed verbal
ual guides. Our visitors’ programmes, departments that cover a spectrum in description and touch.
education services and outreach will be terms of era, style, materials and back-
UFFIZI GALLERY
accessible and inclusive too.” ground. Apart from photography, pre- in Florence has a
From ticketing to navigation to in- modern art, modern and contemporary guided Touch Tour that
terpreters, MAP is currently deliber- art, textiles, craft and design, folk and enables people with
ating on a series of apps and physical tribal art, and popular culture find rep- vision loss to use their
tiles for signage throughout its space, resentation. According to Sawhney, sense of touch (with
all designed under the guidance of the grant from Mphasis will be utilised latex-gloved hands, of
the Diversity and Equal Opportunity towards making art and the museum course) to get a closer
Centre (DEOC). The building will be accessible and inclusive through a look at its collection
equipped with wheelchair-friendly 360-degree approach that includes dig- of art in marble.
classroom tables and will have a qui- ital resources, education workshops,
V&A has offered
et room for those who struggle with exhibitions and recruitment, as well as tactile sessions and
being in crowded spaces. Accessibility the museum space itself. > programming since
also lies in details such as door-locking 1985. It now also has
mechanisms, vending machines, light- sensory backpacks for
ing, hearing enhancement systems, children with visual
and emergency preparedness. MAP is impairments, promising
also currently developing its website, to make exploring the
which will be completely accessible museum fun.
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THE
ART
REPORT
“I SEE
MYSELF
AS A
FACILITATOR,
AS SOMEONE
WHO TAKES
ART TO THE
PEOPLE
RATHER THAN
BRINGING
PEOPLE
TO ART”
— TARANA
SAWHNEY
If there’s a champion of art in India for Art collectors, gallerists, auctioneers, private foundations
2019, it is Tarana Sawhney. One of the and even museum promoters tend to talk the same lan-
forces behind the India Pavilion at the guage: What sold, and for how much? Which emerging artist
is on the up and who has fallen off the map? And if you’re on
Venice Biennale, she has now set her the inside track, are you at the top shows—Kochi, Venice,
sights on getting corporate support in a Dubai, London, Miami, Delhi? It can get a bit cliquey inside
bid to democratise art, finds Sunil Sethi this self-promoting, and sometimes gloating, world. But
that’s where Tarana Sawhney is different, she’s busy reboot-
ing it. Although she owns a splendid private collection—vin-
tage Zarina Hashmis, unusual Rana Begums and installa-
tions by Benitha Perciyal—she dislikes the ‘collector’ label.
She’s not too keen on the well-worn ‘patron’ either, though
she serves on the board of the influential Delhi-based
ART
REPORT
ART
REPORT
Jagdip
Jagpal
>FAIR PLAY
1
With the next edition of India Art
Fair (IAF) around the corner, its
director Jagdip Jagpal gives Vogue
the highlights:
3 20 FOR
COURTESY INDIA ART FAIR; DAG/STUDIO ADRIEN GARDERE; JITISH KALLAT; CHEMOULD PRESCOTT ROAD GALLERY; GETTY IMAGES
> BIGGEST
PICTURE
2020
Jitish Kallat’s upcoming
solo exhibition will
introduce his largest
painting yet, Ellipses,
currently sized at about
75ft, and Covering Letter
(terranum nuncius), an A definitive list of the most
installation that recalls
the sounds and images anticipated happenings in
that were carried by
NASA’s Voyager 1 and 2. contemporary Indian art
From January 7 to 14 at that you need to calendar for
Famous Studios, Mumbai;
Naturemorte.com next year. By Radhika Iyengar
Jitish Kallat
8
> RISING STAR Artwork by
Prabhakar Pachpute has slowly become the rising star of Prabhakar
the Indian art world and was shortlisted for the UK’s biggest Pachpute
contemporary art prize, Artes Mundi 9. Don’t miss what might
be one of the most important shows of the year—his solo
exhibition at Experimenter on Hindusthan Road, Kolkata. It will
also feature a stop-motion animation, made in collaboration with
the U-ra-mi-li Project, which will be layered with documented
9
songs of labour. From January 18 to March 31; Experimenter.in
ART
REPORT
11
< ARTS OF EAST ASIA
China, Korea and Japan, V&A
Academy: Think of it as a time capsule
that will introduce participants to the rich
CRASH
artistic heritage of East Asian society.
Mapped from the Neolithic period to COURSE
the modern era, the course will tease For those looking to
out, with great acuity, the cultural
movements that were vital for East Asian educate and engage,
art to flourish. The unique techniques here’s a list of classes
practised across a range of paintings,
lacquer, metalwork, ceramic and textiles to sign-up for
will serve as important peepholes into
Chinese, Korean and Japanese society.
On till July 13 at V&A, London; Vam.ac.uk
> HIGH
RENAISSANCE
12
TO BAROQUE
1500-1720, V&A Academy:
An exhaustive understanding
of European art and
architecture. Starting with ^ CARING
FOR YOUR
Rome, Venice and Florence, it
will explore how different cities COLLECTION
developed their characteristic This London-based course from Christie’s is geared
artistic techniques, allowing towards educating participants in the process of
you to discover how some of maintaining priceless artworks—from delicate
13
the greatest European artists paper works and large canvases to frames. Expert
and iconic masterpieces came tutors will offer invaluable tips on art appreciation
to be. On till July 8 at V&A, and how to acquire, study, handle and preserve
London; Vam.ac.uk expensive pieces. On till July 3; Christies.edu/london
< EXPERIMENTAL
PRINTMAKING AND JAPANESE
COURTESY MAP; PANGROK SULAP; KATHRIN LEISCH; AVEEK SEN/ EXPERIMENTER KOLKATA; GETTY IMAGES
WOODBLOCK SESSIONS
Nandini Chirimar is known for her greyscale drawings,
intricate thread work and exquisite printmaking. Based in
New York, Chirimar offers a class on the technique of chine
collé, which employs unconventional printing and gluing
techniques, at the EFA Robert Blackburn Printmaking
14
Workshop. Her Japanese woodblock course involves Shina
plywood blocks. “We teach image preparation, transfer,
Japanese Kento registration, wood carving and water-
based colour printing,” she says. Rbpmw-efanyc.org
15
Abhishek
Poddar,
< CREATIVE OFFERINGS AT MAP
Based in Bengaluru, the Museum of Art and Photography
(MAP) has been making great strides—and not only in
the field of archiving. It has also structured a couple of
children’s workshops in January. These are “designed as
founder,
MAP interactive sessions with hands-on activities, stories and
conversations that encourage curiosity, lateral thinking
and critical enquiry,” says MAP’s director, Kamini Sawhney.
MAP will also offer tailor-made educational experiences for
audiences with disabilities. Map-india.org
Natalia Hub
V
Superm odianova Artistic ert Barrère
o Directo
Philanthdel and r, Lesag
e
ropist
Andrea Luke M
sK eier
Creativ ronthaler Creativ & Lucie Meie
Vivienn e Director, e Dire r
e Westw Jil Sand ctors,
ood er
Joerg Suzy M
Creato Zuber enkes
r, Noon E
oouri Vogue ditor,
Interna
tional
REPORT
The
Pierre Balmain, the French
maison has cultivated a
feminine, form-fitting, richly
embellished aesthetic. Under
Olivier Rousteing this has
predominantly taken on
the form of vibrant sequins
and glitter in body-hugging
minis and sharply cut blazers.
A model wearing Naturally, his ‘Balmain army’
Pierre Balmain of Kardashian-Jenners and
circa 1954 top models can’t get enough.
HALSTON HERITAGE
“Did I miss the memo?” whispered a friend His name is synonymous with the
watching the parade of Bombay beauties who disco ’70s, New York and Studio
54—he dressed Bianca Jagger
sashayed down the staircase of the Grand Hy-
and Liza Minnelli. And while his
att Mumbai at Vogue’s annual Women of the legacy includes clean and minimal
Year awards in various avatars of shine. Blame designs, his use of ultra-suede, his
it on the presence of the new Sultan of Sequins, sensual gold lamé dresses and his
Michael Halpern, who had just wrapped up a sequinned jumpsuits rounded out a
week in the city, meeting and dressing the glam-bohemian aesthetic. The ‘Battle
swish set—“He’s more Sindhi than British,” of Versailles’
Naomi show, 1973
host Karan Johar joked later that night—or the Campbell
fact that when the dress code states ‘Vogue in Versace
best’, taking the glamour up a notch is a given. Couture VERSACE
There was no doubt about it: shimmer, in all its A/W
1995-96
We have Versace to thank
glory (whether sequin, glitter, crystal or lamé) for multiple internet-breaking
ruled the red carpet. Then, there was Malini moments—the supers walking
Ramani’s recent 50th birthday celebration in down the ramp to ‘Freedom’,
the capital a few weeks later, titled Disco, that Jennifer Lopez and her jungle
paid homage to the glorious hedonism and un- dress (then and now), and Kate
adulterated glamour of the decade. Or Alessan- Moss closing the 1995 show
dro Michele’s continuing magpie aesthetic at
wearing a bedazzled white
wedding dress. The glorious ’80s
Gucci that’s still setting cash registers ringing
at the house gave us bejewelled
worldwide. Clearly, whichever way you look at bras, metallic mesh and
it, it’s all about the dazzle. rhinestone covered everything.
Last year, Fashionista.com did a piece on the As Donatella Versace aptly put
resurgence of shine not only as a means of es- it: “Versace stands for beauty,
caping the ugly turbulence beyond fashion, but sex and glamour.”
also as a reaction to our fast-scrolling consump-
VIBE: WHIMSICAL VIBE: SUBVERSIVE VIBE: DISCO DIVAS VIBE: ROCK ‘N’ ROLL VIBE: GROWN-
ALICE + OLIVIA ASHISH ATTICO CÉLINE UP GLITTER
Stacey Bendet loves the A lot has been Milan-based Gilda The verdict on Hedi HALPERN
rainbow. She also loves said about the Ambrosio and Giorgia Slimane’s Céline as he In the lexicon of
sequins. For the designer transformative power Tordini started Attico took the reins from fashion, the name
whose imagination was of a sequinned- “out of a shared love Phoebe Philo in 2018 was Michael Halpern
called out by Vogue. speckled garment. And for glamour and disparate. Some mourned evokes the image
com for being a “swirling who better to embody glitter.” Now, apart Philo’s departure like of all things glitter.
lollipop of colour and this than India’s global from being their own you would an untimely To him, the idea
sparkle, a bohemian transplant, Ashish best fit models, the heartbreak, while others of sparkle is
mash-up of print, a bright Gupta. Perhaps also designer duo’s label has were ready for a shift something of a
palette and glitter” makes the reason why the found favour among in aesthetic, having respite from the
her looks appropriate for Delhi-born, London- cool-girl cliques. witnessed Slimane’s doom and gloom
the global nomad. based designer’s Their dangerous work at Saint Laurent. of daily headlines.
Instagram profile liaison dresses, with A 180-degree turn of “I think using colour
reads: ‘fighting gloom plummeting necklines, events followed, where and texture is a
with glitter since 2001’. hitched hemlines and a clean lines were swapped way to have a bit of
He tells us, “Glitter smattering of sequins, for shimmering suits and fantasy in your life.
can be joyful, defiant find the best match baby doll dresses. His When it comes to
and political. It should in the label’s sky-high passion for photography celebration, who
be an integral part of stilettos. and the rock scene clearly doesn’t want to put
every wardrobe, just reflects in the nonchalant on a sparkly frock
like denim or knitwear.” undercurrent of his work. and jump around
sometimes?”
Natasha
Poonawalla
in
Glitter girls
These women have what it takes to shine—in deed and dress
ROOHI JAIKISHAN,
ENTREPRENEUR, SANYA V JAIN,
RRO LTD DESIGNER &
“Currently, I only want to ENTREPRENEUR
wear Fenty Bomb. It’s all Delhi-based Jain is
the glitter you need,” says not one to shy away
Jaikishan, with a laugh. from anything OTT.
Known for her love for “There are no rules
Gucci (she’s been spotted when it comes to
in the label’s sequinned glitter. I like to pile
bombers and that iconic on the bling,” she
crystal jumpsuit), her says, while adding:
favourite wardrobe basics are “If your dress is
surprisingly “pailette pieces all-over sparkle, keep
from Marni. I wear them your shoes neutral.
often, both dressed down Avoid bags with
with jeans as well as teamed patterns, especially
with a skirt and boots.” monograms.”
Tip to shine: “Don’t add Tip to shine:
extra accessories.” “Nothing should
overpower your
tinsel-tinted dress,
QUEENIE SETHIA, and that includes
JEWELLERY DESIGNER your makeup.”
A former model and
jewellery designer, Sethia
is unapologetic about her
love of bling. “The glitter
and sequinned dresses at
Balmain are amazing,” she
says, noting her predilection
for curve-hugging numbers.
“Other purchases include
shiny snakeskin jackets by
Roberto Cavalli, Dolce &
Gabbana’s colourful crystal AMRITA
shoes and a Kooples red ARORA,
sequinned dress that I love.” ACTOR
Tip to shine: “Wear glitter Arora’s go-to for a
with confidence and go night of partying
head-to-toe. Don’t ever is always a heavy
apologise for being over dose of shine.
the top.” She’s seen here
channelling a ’70s
vibe at Vogue’s
NAYNTARA THACKER,
Women of the
ENTREPRENUER & GREG SWALES; STEVEN KLEIN; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; GETTY IMAGES
COURTESY @AMUARORAOFFICIAL/ INSTAGRAM; ABHEET GIDWANI;
Year awards last
CURATOR
year. One rule
You can’t pin down Thacker’s
every member
glitter moments in one look.
of the sequinned
There are at least a dozen,
set agrees on is
as you search her ‘sequinned’
keeping the MVP
history. “Glitter can be anything
metallic and the
you want it to be,” she says, and
extras low-key.
with that she’ll swipe on glitter
Tip to shine:
YSL eyeshadow or wear a
“It’s all about the
sequinned tulle headband
balance of sequins,
from Gucci.
not the battle of
Tip to shine: “If you’re a curvy
sequins.” ■
girl like me, find your perfect
fit so you wear the clothes and
the clothes don’t wear you.”
Rihanna at the
CFDA fashion
awards wearing
an Adam Selman
dress made Nicole Kidman
with 2,16,000 in Moulin Michael Jackson
Swarovski crystals Rouge! (2001) in concert
The way
all Ritu Kumar.
Earrings, Isharya.
Choker, Outhouse
we wore
The real MVPs of a woman’s
wardrobe are the pieces that have
changed hands over generations.
Vogue asked three fashion bloggers
to interpret RI Ritu Kumar’s Modern
Heirlooms collection in three distinct
bridal moods. By Praachi Raniwala
Photographed by TENZIN LHAGYAL
Styling by DANIEL FRANKLIN
NAVNEET R BAJAJ
34, RESTAURATEUR
Bajaj’s wardrobe is heavily laced with the classic, including treasured outfits from her mother’s and grandmother’s wardrobes. “My nani’s
mithu pink Tanchoi sari is my favourite. It’s about 70 years old, with a silver zari border. I had to steal it from my mum,” she laughs. For her
engagement in 2012, Bajaj refashioned a dusty pink phulkari dupatta from Patiala (dating back to her mother’s wedding) into a sharara set.
“I do regret it at times, I wish I had retained the dupatta in its original form.”
The Ritu Kumar connect: “When I was young, my aunts and I would drive five hours from my hometown, Bazpur, to Ritu Kumar’s store in
Delhi. My masi once bought a black block printed raw silk jacket. I remember secretly wishing that she’d forget it here so I could keep it.” >
RASNA BHASIN
26, CONTENT CREATOR
Delhi-based Bhasin, who grew up in a joint family, recalls poring over her great-grandmother’s firoza jewellery and batik pieces,
being introduced to bandhani by her mother when she was 13, and visiting fabric stores to create her own Indian wear.
“My style is old-school, thanks to the influence of the women I grew up around,” she says. “Even today, saris are my wedding
season go-to (Chantilly lace and silks are favourites). I rarely buy my own though, and prefer to raid my mother’s or grandmother’s
closet instead. Since my drape is always classic, I usually wear a contemporary blouse.”
Bhasin has been upcycling her mother’s Indian wear for as long as she can remember. The most sentimental piece
remains her mother’s deep-green brocade and zari work wedding-day suit. “For a bride, the colour was so ahead of its time.
I’ve altered it to my size and swapped her original salwar for palazzos.”
The Ritu Kumar connect: “On my parents’ 15th anniversary, my father gifted my mother a deep-red and black dabka work sari from
Ritu Kumar. The pallu even had her initials embroidered on the back. It’s such a personal piece, I hope to inherit it one day.”
DESPATCH
New York
Minute
For the Louis Vuitton
Cruise 2020 show, Nicolas
Ghesquière took us on a flight
back in time, only to land up
in his unique future, reports
Anaita Shroff Adajania
ed with it. Nicolas Ghesquière, Louis Vuitton’s this collection was all
artistic director of womenswear, said in a pre- about paying homage
to the Big Apple
show interview that the venue reminded him of
the feeling he experienced when he first visited
New York. And then, the show began. >
Suddenly,
JFK’s defunct
TWA terminal
became the most
glamorous part
of New York
NY state
TWA F
light Ce
nter
of mind
GETTY IMAGES; INDIGITAL MEDIA; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
A woman in
uniform at
the TWA
Data Center
Helmets
borrowed from
the past made
their way to the
runway
Fashion for
the ages
The French maison trans-
ported us to several periods
by way of a memory mash-up. The future travel
Passengers who punctuated companion
the New Wave era of the ’80s, Bags resembling
the New York
slipped into looks reminis- skyline were one
cent of the Mad Men-inspired of the highlights
characters of the ’50s and art
deco, as well as a Gotham
vibe that flirted with neo-fu-
turism. It was a fascinating
display of inspired ensembles.
I loved the lush satins, over-
sized rhinestones, structural It was a collection that
tops made to look like wings, dipped into many eras, but
and city shorts that paved the
way for the season ahead. >
one that presented a look
that women across ages
would be eager to wear
Editor’s pick
The travel bag of
Everyday cap-toe boots
the future doubles got a fashion uplift,
up as a TV with an securing the top spot
inbuilt LED screen on every girl’s wish list.
Wonder years
Time was an elastic concept at the show, embracing the
decades and making us a part of each. The consistency
in the chaos was reflected in the influence of street wear,
which was dressed up and given a glitzy edge. It was also
One aspect that had a represented by the conversion of a once defunct termi-
nal into a sophisticated runway, ensuring the smoothest
lasting impression on me of landings for the Louis Vuitton mother ship. ■
was the blurring of time
in an intriguing way
New York’s style aficionados showed
their support, with power dressing
being the code for the night
#FROW
(that includes dressing graduate Falguni was commissioned to hand-paint garments for Shane’s
Queen Bey), expanding collection for an export house. And now, they are celebrating 15 years of
their label, Falguni Shane Peacock. Their runway debut in 2004 was an
the brand’s footprint across unapologetic all-out animal print line that got noticed and picked up by
India and reinventing to London store Harrods in 2005, where they retailed alongside Armani and
Valentino. An unprecedented international career graph soon followed.
keep up with the times At their studio in Andheri, picture frames spelling out ‘animal prints’,
MUSICALLY GIFTED
A chance call from celebrity stylist B Åkerlund in
2010 saw the Peacocks create four outfits within
a week for Fergie of the Black Eyed Peas, for her
performance at the FIFA World Cup in South Africa.
Since then, their celebrity clientele has swelled to
include concert couture and over 20 music video
costumes for the likes of Lady Gaga, Jennifer Lopez,
Rihanna, Nicki Minaj, Britney Spears, and Beyoncé
(for her internet-breaking ‘Formation’ video), among
others. “Music is an integral part of us. It makes the
creative juices flow,” says Falguni. And this all-
encompassing love for music has been inherited by
their 17-year-old daughter Nian, who is dabbling in
writing and composition. “She’s collaborating with
OPPOSITES ATTRACT artistes in Los Angeles and creating some great
music,” says her proud father.
She’s the yin to his yang. He’s the classic rock and
country music lover who binge-watches Black Mirror
and keeps a cerulean goatee. She loves her feel-good <playlist,
Pink Floyd features high on Shane's
while Falguni is currently
flicks, skinny jeans and shopping trips. He’s the dreamer, listening to Shawn Mendes on loop
making big plans. She’s the pragmatic perfectionist.
But at the drawing board, their differences in opinion
and ability help them hone their aesthetic. Underneath
the easy banter is a mutual crystal-clear vision. In sharp
RETAIL MANTRA
Last month saw the launch of their
contrast to their label’s hyper-glam vibe, where they Mumbai flagship, a 6,000sqft space
party with Paris Hilton one night and dress the likes in Kala Ghoda. Designed by Gauri
of Priyanka Chopra Jonas the next, the duo prefer Khan, the store’s stone-clad front is
to spend their free time “staying at home, listening to reminiscent of the boutiques in their
music or watching movies and painting,” says Falguni. favourite city, Paris. Khan’s vision
of a luxurious atelier, with pink and
black marble and vintage chandeliers,
matched the Peacocks’ aspirations.
MOVIE BUFF With marble sourced from Rajasthan,
Even as they dress the who’s who of the carpets handcrafted in Gujarat and
entertainment industry, Shane’s interest in restored chandeliers from Kolkata,
movies goes beyond the sartorial. With two the space further underscores a glocal
scripts penned, and a third in the works, he is a flavour. Next on the cards are outposts
pedantic film student. He even spent two days in Kolkata and Hyderabad, and 50
with Paul Haggis, director of the Oscar-winning FSP prêt stores by 2025 in a bid to
Crash (2004), observing and learning the ropes target a younger, emerging clientele. The couturiers at work
on-set. When the time is right, he hopes to There’s an accessory and beauty with Gauri Khan for their
make a film too. “I know that it will take a year range in the pipeline too. The Mumbai flagship store
of commitment, so I’m working towards it.” Peacocks are ready to preen. ■
<Bond,
Film picks: Falguni's is James <colour
Shane’s lucky
is yellow
while Shane prefers sci-fi
Red-letter day
Celebration, ceremony, seduction—red is the colour of life. “In France, like all
around the world, it is a royal colour denoting happiness, strength, energy and
beauty. It is our blood,” says Ménéhould de Bazelaire du Chatelle, artistic director
of Cultural Patrimony of Hermès. It is also the subject of a travelling exhibition,
Hermès Heritage – Rouges Hermès, at The Chanakya, New Delhi. By Dal Chodha
de Bazelaire “He never collected without trying to continue “We have a special story with red,” she contin-
du Chatelle the adventure of creation (he had plenty of ide- ues. “It was always a challenge for Hermès to
as and lots of energy), but in the confines of his obtain this colour. Émile worked very closely
office, located at the top of 24 Rue du Faubourg with Monsieur Combe to develop a deep-red hue
Saint-Honoré in Paris—funnily once a building for leather, then silk, enamel, and later, porce-
with a red-and-white facade, topped by a dark lain. Now, in the French dictionary, if you look
red roof—he never stopped questioning the at the term ‘red’ you can find ‘rouge Hermès’. It
past to design for the future,” says Ménéhould is a specific colour!” Walking through the exhi-
de Bazelaire du Chatelle. bition, visitors can discover the many nuances
Silk-satin gown
by Claude Brouet
(A/W 1995)
of red—from brown to burgundy, crimson to car- ry travel writing case in Morocco leather. A cer-
nelian. “At Hermès, we believe in differences; emonial military saddle, covered in quilted crim-
we are always looking for nuances. We don’t son velvet, once shown at the 1867 Universal
want this vision of a singular, global taste for Exposition in Paris, is a reminder of the eques-
our customer as the nuances are important de- trian foundations of the house. “Émile didn’t col-
pending on where our clients are. We’re always lect any Hermès-made products because his
creating new reds. It is a perpetual quest.” pride was to imagine that customers make the
product come alive. He always said to them,
ON SHOW ‘Don’t congratulate us, you are really the author
Loaned from the collection is a small silk and pa- of these objects.’” In one room stands a large golf
per book, printed in 1820, titled L’Art du Teintu- bag from the 1920s in red box leather, itself a
rier (The Art Of The Dyer) by Auguste Vinçard. symbol of modernity, movement and innovation.
De Bazelaire du Chatelle’s gloved hand caresses It is one of the earliest examples of a bag that
the book’s pages with its neatly typeset instruc- features a zipper, a mechanism Émile patented
tion on how to dye wool, silk thread and cotton. in France in 1918, after discovering its use to at-
“It’s filled with recipes, the secrets to obtain the tach a canvas roof to a car while in Canada. In
colour which came from the rare murex shell or another room is a lambskin briefcase from 1921,
Garance flower.” Perfectly preserved swatches some of the house’s iconic silk square scarves—
of crimson silk and scarlet wool lie flat on the another Émile introduction—and a witty cow-
pages, framed in decorative panels. hide chewing-gum holder from the early 1980s.
On display will also be a flamboyant Saint- They each remind us of the founding philoso-
Louis crystal vase in deep red (gold has been used phies of Hermès: a certain charm, a usefulness,
to make up its rich tone) and a neat, 18th-centu- and an endless devotion to creation. n
All heart
To mark its 75th year, the Jai Vakeel Foundation
shines a spotlight on children with learning difficulties,
one wristband at a time. By Sheree Gomes Gupta
Photographed by INDRA JOSHI Styled by RIA KAMAT
Come together
In its fourth edition, Dior Lady Art brings together 11 artists from around the
world to create their own construct of the iconic Lady Dior. In a first, two artists of
Indian origin, Raqib Shaw and Rina Banerjee, collaborate with the French maison
on this special project. Vogue finds out more. By Priyanka Khanna
It’s been nearly 25 years since the Lady Dior design launched. However,
Raqib Shaw
In progress
The Kolkata-born, Kashmir-raised, London-based artist just How do you construct narratives in your
wrapped up his first solo exhibit, Landscapes Of Kashmir, aesthetic?
which drew on his childhood memories, at New York’s Pace It’s no secret that my work is heavily influenced
by major artists of the Renaissance. A trip to
Gallery. Shaw is known for his multilayered, fantastical and the National Gallery in London, in 1992, at
provocative works that are inlaid with gems and enamel the age of 18, when I saw Holbein’s The Ambas-
Details
RINA
Shells are
my chosen materials, such as enamel. predominant
BANERJEE
How did you reinterpret the Lady
Dior bag?
I realised quickly that I didn’t want to try to
reinterpret it. Instead, I was interested in see-
ing how the motifs in my work could be repli- The New York- What does this collaboration mean?
cated or reinterpreted. In particular, the moon- based artist and I’m really intrigued by this object—the bag, an
light scene with the pink blossoms.
sculptor, with accessory that is our most intimate friend and
travels everywhere with us.
How does the garden at your studio feed roots in Kolkata,
into your work? describes her Tell us more about your Lady Dior.
Kashmir was embraced as heaven on earth by artistic universe I take inspiration from the universe. I was most
the Mughals, and some of the greatest gardens interested in the protective eye, our sensory
of that period existed in Kashmir. That, cou-
as “constantly goddess of light, which I created out of moon-
pled with my love of 18th-century English lit- evolving.” Her stone and a variety of cowry shells. The bag
erature are my main inspirations. I spend my work, described points to the rivers—gateways to commerce
time turning my studio into a ‘garden of de- as “cartographic and to the movement of people and objects.
lights’, a fantasy world where one’s perception Fashion has the ability to make you visible and
of reality is blurred. fiction” by allows you be perceived the way you want to be.
Forbes, was just
How does this fantasy world come showcased at You had an interesting starting point.
together with that of Dior?
Harmoniously, I would say. The makers at
a mid-career My urgency was to connect the bag as an object
to its function. I was thinking about my first
Dior understood my technique and aesthetic. retrospective at memory of a bag: my mother slept with hers by
As the eye and the mind settle down, each work the Pennsylvania her pillow, in case she had to run out of her
reveals itself as a carefully constructed visual Academy of the house in an emergency. She had her ID, keys,
symphony, where all elements are interconnect- money and bankbook in it. Her purse was a
ed, taking the viewer on a visual and psycho-
Fine Arts constant reminder of the dangers of having pos-
logical journey. sessions. ■
are a part of this edition
The other designs that
IN FOCUS
Athi-Patra Ruga Jia Lee Wang Guangle Kohei Nawa Maria Nepomuceno
1
< GRACE WALES BONNER
London-based Wales Bonner approaches
fashion as a kind of cultural think tank—
collaborators include the writer Ben Okri, the
musician Sampha and Dior’s Maria Grazia
Chiuri. Her narratives, meanwhile, are rooted in
her Caribbean background while they play with
tropes of gender and class. One high-profile
example: the dress that Meghan, Duchess
of Sussex, wore for the announcement of
her newborn—which looked like an elegantly
transformed gentleman’s white-tie jacket.
FORECAST
20 for 2020
Meet the designers that you—
and your closets—are going to
become very familiar with in the
next decade. By Nick Remsen
>SIMONE
ROCHA
There’s magic in what the
Irish-born, London-based
3 As we head into the next decade, these 20 designers are
poised to set the bar—and the pace—for what fashion
will become. They are a global group, based everywhere
Rocha achieves at her from Los Angeles to Paris, and they work in many differ-
label. She represents a ent ways—some of them operate independently, from
vision of femininity that
COURTESY MANUEL BRAUN; JAMIE MORGAN; GETTY
poetic prettiness without age from their twenties to their forties, and their imagi-
being retrogressive or nations run the gamut from provocative and intellectual
irrelevant. Her velvets, to sun-kissed and seductive. What unites all of them,
tulles and sumptuous
though, is their ability to see through a kaleidoscope of
layers transport the
wearer into lush reverie, perspectives. Each is aware of their own world but is just
but behind the euphoria as sensitive to other cultures. Each of them is also push-
is a resolute celebration of ing creativity forward while helping reform an industry
womanhood, feminism, that, in the past, was not nearly as inclusive, sustain-
and independence. able, or approachable as it is now.
< LAZAROHERNANDEZ
AND JACK MCCOLLOUGH
PROENZA SCHOULER 7
McCollough and Hernandez have long been the darlings of New York
City’s fashion scene, but lately they’ve been hitting a new, confident
stride by embracing a more exacting sense of who they are and what
their line can be. While their aesthetic ranges from surf-inspired to city-
chic, it’s this notion of re-evaluating their role in a frenetic ecosystem
that’s quintessentially American. “In the next decade,” Hernandez says,
“having a crystal-clear voice that speaks to a specific group of people
seems more important than trying to be all things to all people.”
< MIKE
ECKHAUS
8 9
> VIRGIL ABLOH
He runs his own label, Off- AND ZOE LATTA
White, as well as Louis Vuitton’s ECKHAUS LATTA
menswear division; he’s a DJ, an Eckhaus and Latta’s bicoastal
architect, and a furniture designer label—already the subject of
with a recently concluded a Whitney show—could be
retrospective at the Museum described as a community-
of Contemporary Art Chicago. minded clothing company
Abloh knew, before most, meets art house, with looks that
how crucial engaging with an play with experimentation and
audience on social media could a constituency that includes
be. “Ultimately, I think all aspects communities not previously
of lifestyle will see the same acknowledged. To them,
eagerness that, to this point, we’ve clothes aren’t about status or
seen purely in fashion,” he says. exclusivity, but meaning. >
> DEMNA
10
GVASALIA
Georgian designer Gvasalia studies the everyday and the
pedestrian, wryly observing and translating consumerism while
bringing his generation’s take on culture and society to bear at
both Vetements, until earlier this year, and Balenciaga. At the
latter, he instils the house’s namesake volumes and grace into
harder-edged, urbane sportswear that’s not afraid to tackle riskier
themes—while proving mightily influential with new-ground
concepts, from “ugly” sneakers and eccentric styling to challenging
the very notion of what is or isn’t considered good taste.
15 < KATE
AND LAURA MULLEAVY
RODARTE
Rodarte’s California-centric, Pasadena-based Kate
and Laura Mulleavy have become world-famous for
their dreamlike, brainy, confectionery dresses. They do
evening wear like nobody else. Think warped, weird, wild
and wonderful—trailblazing a new way to the future.
> RO K
19
HWANG
ROK H
Korean-born, Texas-raised Hwang has come to be known
for a neo-stylish aesthetic with his London-based label,
Rokh. Think functionality, eccentricity and chicness
balanced together—echoing, in ways, the ethos of Phoebe
Philo’s Céline (where Hwang trained). At the same time,
his work—and that of some noted others in Seoul’s sartorial
circles—is a fusion of inventiveness with street-inspired
separates and forward-thinking plays on gender norms.
< ANTH ON Y
VACCAREL LO
SAINT LAU RENT 20
What makes Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello
so compelling is his knack for hybridising Yves
Saint Laurent’s legacy of gender and sexuality
with his own, resulting in a glorious deconstruction
of the line between womenswear and menswear.
From Malibu-meets-Marrakech luxury surfwear
to concert-ready bow-adorned dresses and
big-impact Le Smoking jackets, Vaccarello makes
statements and orchestrates spectacles—two
things that keep fashion moving. n
A L I A
B H A T T
m ad e a co m eback
“Red ha s
re. It can
like never befo in many
d
be incorporate hiffon,
i, c
ways—in khad nd silk.”
ta
organza, velve KHERJEE
CHI M U
—SABYASA
Vow factor
In its seventh year, the Vogue Wedding
Sh in all its glory
Forty-seven brands, nearly 4,500 visitors,
ht-as
Vogue Wedding Show went all out. Each
ils to lig
From X L ve
’s cout uriers: What’s in year, this one-stop shop for all things nup-
ntry
asked the cou the new-age bride?
tial takes over the capital with its line-up of
Vogue for
top couturiers, jewellers, and gifting and
services brands; this time, a Louis Vuitton
trunks and trousseau salon made its debut
too. Brides- and grooms-to-be flocked to the
three-day exhibit to plan every detail of
their dream wedding. From the planner to
the destination, and the all-important ca-
terer, no detail was left to chance—the
Vogue Wedding Show offered everything
needed for a fairy-tale wedding. The curated
couture and heirloom-worthy jewels also
shared space with more social activities, in-
cluding high tea and face time with industry
experts. For those who missed it, consider
“The bride today is sure of what she wants. this your handy guide to all the top trends
And the best part is she doesn’t mind this wedding season, courtesy the biggest
experimenting. She’s not shying away from names in the biz. You’re welcome! ■
— ANITA DONGRE
JEWELLERS
Across layered
and floral motif necklaces
complements a s, what best
bride’s trousseau
?
—GAURAV GUPTA
OCCASIONS FINE JEWELLERY
“The focus is on
the customsiation
needs of a bride. So
it’s not just about
heavy jewellery, but
the smaller parts
that make up her
trousseau—like a
simple necklace.”
—CHAITANYA AGARWAL,
NIRAKARA JEWELS
“It’s a season of
colours. Emeralds,
preferably
Colombian
or Zambian,
mixed with pink
sapphires and
blue sapphires in
a rose cut.”
—GAUTAM SONI, THE
HOUSE OF MBJ
“A statement layered
necklace that can be peeled
apart to make different
necklaces each time, bangles
that become necklaces, and
mix-and-match layers will see
you through many events and
occasions. But the star piece
of the season is the choker.”
—RAJ MAHTANI, RAJ MAHTANI
COUTURE JEWELS
ATS KNIGHTSBRIDGE
FOREVERMARK
OUR PARTNERSt
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Without whose support this ev
would not have been possible
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Rasika Wakalkar, A
up over
Gulnar Virk,
Radhika
Bhuptani,
Jhelum Dalvi, Sanya V Jain and
Aarti Rele Pernia Qureshi Gilani
Navneet Randhawa
Ashumi Doshi
and Taruna Patel
SAGAR AHUJA; ASHISH ARORA; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
DREAMZKRRAFT
WEDDINGS
FTING A N D
GI
SERVIr CdeEsigSn,
NORITAKE
Destination o covered
VVYOM
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every detail wa
ISHARYA
PASSERINE
KATALYST KINGDOM
ENTERTAINMENT OF BAHRAIN
FAAYA
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BVLGARI & GUERLAIN - RAVISH KAPOO ATIONS
VIT
FRAGRANCES & BEAUTY INNOVATIVE IN
LUXE
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SHLOKA EVENTS
SAGAR AHUJA; ASHISH ARORA; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
XQUISITE CREATIVE
FABELLE E S CUISINES INC. (CCI)
SHAZÉ TE
CHOCOLA
Avni Biyani
bar, Roohi
Caroline Le Manjula Tiwari
nd
Jaikishan a
CONNECTION
WHAT: Karl Lagerfeld for Cover Zubin
Story collection launch Marker and
WHERE: Roohi Jaikishan’s Priya Aswani
Mumbai home The designer’s
b
World Accord ook The
ing To Karl
Caroline Lebar, Karl Lagerfeld’s right-
Eve Lemesle and hand woman and the communications
Chetan Jaikishan
head for his eponymous label, was
Kanika
in Mumbai for a collaboration with
Kapoor Indian high street giant Cover Story.
On the eve of the collection’s launch,
tastemaker Roohi Jaikishan hosted a
dinner for a select few at her home.
On the menu were delectable
cheeses, aperol spritzes, and desserts
to end the night on a sweet not
Divya Thakur
Archana
Farah Oomerbhoy, Walavalkar
Lyla Marker and
Pratima
Shalini Shahani
Bhatia
Mandana
Karimi
Michael Halpern,
Jaya Raheja and
h
Cecilia Morelli-Parik
Penny Patel
ALL THAT GLITTERS
WHAT: A two-day celebration for London-based
designer Michael Halpern
WHERE: Cecilia Morelli-Parikh’s home and
Le Mill, Mumbai
Sayani
Gupta
Prerna
Goel
Shalini Passi
Condé Nast’s
Alex Kuruvilla and
Michael Halpern Namita Kuruvilla
and Anaita Shroff
Adajania
Ekta
Raheja
Divya Thakur
Nayntara Sree Goswami and Gayatri Manish and Rooshad
Thacker Rangachari Shah Malhotra Shroff
• FENDI AFTER
• KIARA ADVANI
• DAYTIME DISCO
KARL LAGERFELD
NEW WAVE
EYEVIEW
257
Dress, Roberto Cavalli.
Fringed shawl, Dolce
& Gabbana. Shoes,
Malone Souliers
NO
TIME
LIKE
NOW
Celebrating her biggest year yet, Kiara Advani is on her
way to the top. By Akanksha Kamath
Photographed by TARUN VISHWA Styled by FABIO IMMEDIATO
259
and I are playing tag. I meet her who considers herself an insider with an outsider’s view.
een shots on the sets of her first When rejection struck, she dusted off the self-deprecation
e India cover shoot. It’s a quick and went back to finding her next gig. That’s when her role
she takes a breather, only to dart as an urban woman discovering her sexual self in Lust Sto-
loo. “Oh god, what a way to meet,” ries materialised. “To have someone who believes in you and
ays, a bit embarrassed. But really, your talent is deeply motivating,” she says, of Karan Johar’s
the voyeur here, watching and divine intervention. “I know people blame him for nepotism
uging her every move as Bolly- in the industry, but to those of us on the periphery, he’s
ood’s fresh face on the rise. given such wonderful opportunities.” The Johar-Advani-
I gather observing the 27-year-old. Dharma trifecta comes together again for her next Netflix
y to the set. It’s not heavy with airs, project, Guilty, set to release early next year. “It’s a good
nor with demands of leafy salads with a side of green juice time to be an actor. The audience wants to see quality con-
(just ghar ka khaana that accompanies her to her next en- tent, worthwhile performances and strong roles. A typical
gagement for the evening). When the strobe lights come on, masala blockbuster is no longer the only launchpad. Digital
all she needs is a song to slip into character. The sensual beats platforms offer more room for creativity and global reach.
of ‘Señorita’ by Shawn Mendes and Camila Cabello help her I’ve had people in cities around the world who speak
into the skin of the protagonist she’s playing today, a flamen- different languages come up to me because they’ve seen
co dancer in a sinister lace dress from Dolce & Gabbana. Lust Stories.”
It’s when we finally sit in her hotel room that she asks
everyone to leave us (managers and PR agents included),
tucks into her dinner, and dives into the story of the day she CHARACTER SKETCH
asked for all the things she now has. With all the preparation in the world, including a name
change from Alia to Kiara (another minute detail that pops
up as you Google her), school plays and after-college dance
A HOMECOMING classes, there was still one caveat: she’s a ‘SoBo girl’—she
2019 has been Advani’s biggest year yet: Lust Stories, the grew up in Cuffe Parade and attended the Cathedral and
2018 small screen (but big drama) offering from Netflix, John Connon School, and now lives at Mahalaxmi (possibly
bagged a nomination at the International Emmy Awards, as midtown as it gets for a ‘townie’). As she navigated her
while Kabir Singh (2019), where she played Shahid Ka- way through Bollywood, her struggles were twofold: not only
poor’s love interest, entered the `200 crore club. Her latest was she a newbie without familial forces in the fraternity,
outing, Dharma Productions’s Good Newwz, the Kareena but she was also pigeonholed based on her geolocation. “Hon-
Kapoor Khan- and Akshay Kumar-starrer, comes out later estly, the best compliment I ever received was when someone
this month. thought I was from Delhi. I was a full Hindi film buff in a
Like a pesky ex that keeps cropping up from your past, school where you were ‘cool’ only if you watched English
Advani is aware that most interviews won’t go without the films. Every time my friends called, I would flip to an English
F-word’s mention. So, she answers the channel; when no one was looking, I was
question around her unsuccessful 2014
debut, Fugly, with candour, and an atti-
“When no one was listening to every Govinda song ever and
delivering dialogues from Kabhi Khushi
tude that’s sage for her age. “I remember looking, I was Kabhie Gham (2001) on repeat.”
after Fugly I went into a complete shell,” But being on the fringe has its upside
she confesses. “I thought getting your first listening to every too. After a hard day’s work, she can leave
film was hard enough, that afterwards
your phone would ring off the hook with
Govinda song ever behind Bollywood’s Juhu bubble for home,
where friends and family wait. “When I
offers...until I realised it wasn’t going to and delivering come home, I feel like a normal person,
be like that.” like I have a life beyond all this,” she mo-
Did being related to the late Saeed Jaf- dialogues from tions to the several six-inch heels lining
frey and counting Juhi Chawla and Sal- Kabhi Khushi Kabhie the room wall—her next change a charac-
man Khan as family friends lend some ter waiting to be inhabited before she fi-
stardust to the scenario? Not for Advani, Gham on repeat” nally puts her feet up for the day. >
260
Dress, Gauri & Nainika.
Bra, Myla. Earrings,
Loren Stewart
Dress, Dolce & Gabbana.
Earrings, Loren Stewart
263
Top, Moschino.
Earrings, Loren Stewart
Hair: Gabriel Georgiou/Anima Creative
Management
Makeup: Subhash Vagal (Subbu)
Nails: The White Door, Mumbai
Photographer’s assistant: Jimmy
Assistant stylist: Ria Kamat
Set design and props: Bindiya Chhabria
Production: Bindiya Chhabria; Divya Jagwani
Production assistant: Prachiti Parakh
Movement direction: Shruti Jasani; Paras Sharma
In her first film, she played a Delhi girl; in Indoo Ki Jawani, in the eye and smile, maybe shake your hand, or even just
slated for a June 2020 release, she essays the role of a girl watch you walk over to your vanity van, I feel like I owe
from Ghaziabad. Hours spent peoplewatching in cafes and them so much more. I hope to do at least one south Indian
restaurants and a professional dialect coach later, she per- film a year.”
fected everything to do with a small town. She’s an instinc- For now though, it’s just a matter of finding the time in a
tive actor, always going for the personal stories—it’s why she schedule that’s penned with projects far into the future. “I
took on Preeti Sikka in Kabir Singh, a role that was fero- prayed for this day, you know; the day my mum has to call
ciously dissected, demolished by some for its portrayal of a my manager for my dates,” she laughs. ■
meek female lead, but also lauded for revealing an evolving
character that went from submissive to strong. “Preeti may
be nothing like me; I may not identify with her, but as an
actor I cannot judge her,” she says. It’s a funny balance—
when you know something to be wrong, but it isn’t your
Keeping up with KIARA
place to instruct someone to see the correct path. It’s an in- GET TO KNOW THE INGÉNUE IN
ner debate we all face. “Are you telling me there aren’t girls SEVEN QUICK QUESTIONS
like Preeti? I wish things were different, but the truth is that
there are. That’s why so many women related to her charac-
ter,” she says, making her case for a brand of feminism that’s 1
found a sisterhood across the country. “This Is Us and Modern Love.”
CULTURE VULTURE
Advani’s is not a world of one; there are multicultural un-
dertones to everything she does. Her mum is half-Christian
2“The Table, in Colaba.”
and half-Muslim while her father, a Hindu, found faith in
3
Christianity. “Diwali, Christmas, Eid and everything in be-
tween is celebrated at home,” she says. She ditched the idea
of studying abroad and attended Mumbai’s Jai Hind Col-
lege. “My mum struck a deal with me. She said, ‘You cannot “‘Chandigarh’ from Good Newwz,
drop out of college. Graduate, get a degree, then you can do by Diljit Dosanjh.”
whatever you want.’” College was an education in more
4“Kick-boxing.”
ways than one, she admits. “There are people from all parts
of the country and from different socioeconomic back-
grounds. It really gives you perspective. It’s helped me in my
career, with all the parts and characters I’ve had to play.”
5
So much so that her six-year career graph already boasts
a pan-Indian portfolio. Bharat Ane Nenu (2018), opposite
south Indian superstar Mahesh Babu, tapped a whole new
(and very loyal) cinema-going audience. In Vogue India’s Oc- “Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, Self-Portrait,
tober issue, writer Samrat Chakrabarti accurately encapsu-
lated the power of the south, when he wrote “…In the mov-
and Manish Malhotra.”
6“Athleisure, always.”
ie-mad land of the Telugus, stars are demigods and fandom
a religion.” This, when only speaking of Tollywood. Imagine
the influence of the surrounding three languages and their
respective representation combined. “The film was a dream
launch. The kind of acceptance I got there, right from the
start, was something I had hoped for from my Bollywood
debut,” she says. Her southern connect next extended to Ka- 7
bir Singh, a remake of the Telugu mega hit Arjun Reddy “Madhubala’s Anarkali in
(2017). “It’s like I’ve managed to create a fan base there. At
the end of the day, you do it all for the audience. When Mughal-E-Azam (1960).”
you’re filming and fans wait all day just for you to look them
265
BUSINESS AS
USUAL
Give your work wardrobe
a fresh take by swapping a
strict shirt for something a
little more disco.
267
YES WAY, ROSÉ
Attribute it to the sudden revival
of Elle Woods from Legally
Blonde (we see you Kim K), but
an all-over Barbie-pink pantsuit
is the new daily uniform—just
add a plain white tee.
269
GUILT TRIP
On the scale of high-
watt glamour, this one is
a 1,000 watts of ladylike.
Shirt, Alexandre
Vauthier. Skirt, Attico.
Jacket, Ashish. Boots,
Isabel Marant
271
ADD TO CART
Whoever said you can’t compare
apples and oranges, didn’t try
teaming a lurex shirt dress with
wool trousers. We suggest
negotiating an equal share of
both. The cherry on top? Disco-
ready sunglasses.
273
ORANGE IS THE
NEW BLACK
When faced with the all-important
matte-or-metal question, always
choose both.
274
TRICK OR
TREAT
Velvet, sequins,
ruching! Aka the
shining example of a
glitter hat trick.
HAIR: CYNDIA HARVEY. MAKEUP: PETROS PETROHILOS. MODELS: MICA ARGANARAZ; SELENA FORREST. PRODUCTION: NEELA QUAGLIOLA/MAIRPRODUCTIONS.COM. DIGITAL ARTWORK: OUTPUT
Silvia Venturini
Fendi
When Silvia Venturini Fendi stepped on to the runway after working on: Fendi Haute Couture autumn 2019. Staged on
her autumn/winter 2019-20 ready-to-wear show in February, Palatine Hill in Rome—a location chosen by Lagerfeld, who
it marked the first time that she’d taken the bow without had also given her a book on the Viennese Secession move-
Karl Lagerfeld by her side. Three days before, he had called ment for inspiration—it was the first women’s collection that
her from his hospital bed in Paris. “He still wanted to come to Silvia, 58, had designed by herself.
Milan. He was having ideas, asking about the collection, send- Backdropped by the Colosseum, its Secessionist geometric
ing pictures (he had his iPad). I said, ‘Don’t worry. I’ll send shapes were interpreted through mind-boggling prints and
you everything. You’ll see everything.’ He said, ‘Yes, because intarsias. Ball gown silhouettes from Lagerfeld’s archive were
the doctors, they don’t want me to fly,’” she recalls. Lagerfeld reborn in electric fabrics, slithering and glistening with intri-
died the next morning, following a stoic battle with pancre- cacy. It was heritage craftsmanship in hyper-modernity, the
atic cancer. He had served at Fendi for 54 years. way Lagerfeld liked it, followed by a spectacular moonlit ban-
In July, Silvia showed the last collection they had been quet fit for a Roman emperor. >
278
HOW BEST TO COMPLEMENT THE
COOL TRAVERTINE TONES OF THE
FAMOUS TREVI FOUNTAIN?
In a matchy-matchy cafe au lait blouse
and pant combo, of course.
KEVIN TACHMAN
have to win your battle on the field. Let’s say that the men’s internships at Fendi. They didn’t serve her coffee, “but
show was very good: one star. And the couture was good: two sometimes they’d say, ‘Can we leave at six? We have a con-
stars,” she smiles, backed up by rave reviews and reports of cert in Las Vegas. We’ll come back tomorrow, on time.’ I’d go,
great sales. “September is going to
be ‘Fendi’ but, because I’m a woman, it
will also be different. I’m not a clone of
Clockwise from left: Catherine Zeta-
Karl Lagerfeld.” Jones with Diego Della Valle and
Lagerfeld was hired by Silvia’s mother Giovanna Belloni at the al fresco
and aunts in 1965 to modernise the fam- candlelit dinner on Rome’s Palatine
ily business. She was five when she first Hill that followed the couture show;
met him, and spent her teenage years Candice Swanepoel and Natasha
Poly were among other guests
watching him at work whenever he
came to Rome. At his memorial at Par-
is’s Grand Palais in June, she told a story
of how the young Lagerfeld, already a
kaiser in the making, was hours late for
his job interview, a habit he never over-
came. “Since he died, I sometimes find
myself wondering if he’s still just late,” she con-
fessed, bringing the audience to tears.
“For us, it wasn’t work,” she says, back in
Rome. “I learnt from him that the minute you
start thinking, ‘I have to work’, it becomes
heavy and boring. It was a dialogue more than
anything: sending images, sending presents.”
Contrary to Lagerfeld’s work in Paris at Chanel,
their collaboration was always long-distance.
“He was at Chanel every day, so he could follow
every detail. Here, he would come
and go, and work had to go on when
he wasn’t here.” It gives you an idea
of the position in which Silvia now
finds herself at Fendi: new, but not
so different. She says she still sees
Lagerfeld in Virginie Viard’s collec-
tions for Chanel. “Virginie and I, we
have so much respect for Karl that
the transition cannot be fast. The
new has to arrive in a respectful way.
We are who we are thanks to this
man, so a total detachment from
Karl will never happen. When you
look at Valentino, yes, it’s Pierpaolo
[Piccioli], but I see the Valentino at-
titude. Look at Dior, you see Dior.
How can you not respect the story of
a brand? Otherwise, do your own
brand. Karl will always be here.”
280
‘But how would you get there?’ ‘We have a private plane.’ It Silvia says. “I never say no to anything, otherwise a 100-year-
was a bizarre internship but they were very committed.” old company becomes a mammoth. It’s something I learnt
So ‘with the times’ is Silvia that she featured West’s wife from Karl: to always explore. He understood what was hap-
and her Kardashian-Jenner family in a Fendi campaign last pening in the moment.”
year, a controversial move for a highbrow heritage house. “I In an era when fur, the root of Fendi, is being dropped
love them. They’re good friends, nice people, we share val- by houses including Prada and Gucci, that attitude is useful.
ues.” Lagerfeld, of course, was one of the first designers to “These important issues should not become marketing tools
embrace Kendall Jenner, a testament to his anti-snobbery. to attract young customers. I don’t see the difference
“To be frozen in rules is the most boring thing in the world,” between fur, leather, crocodile and python. What’s the alter-
native? You’re still destroying the planet by
using synthetics.” Instead, Fendi is now in-
creasing its use of upcycled fur and developing
natural fur-imitation materials. Those tech-
niques were present in July’s couture collec-
tion, which saw a translucent coat with mink
panels giving the illusion of transparent fur,
one of Lagerfeld’s lifelong ambitions for
Fendi’s ateliers. When he’d come to Rome, he
was like a tornado. “‘This, this, this, this!’
Sometimes you’d go away thinking, ‘How are
we going to link this?’ It wasn’t easy, but it was
fascinating,” Silvia recalls. Lagerfeld could be
uncompromising. “I knew him my whole life
and he was not easy,” she smiles. “But we
never had fights. There were difficult mo-
ments when we went through changes; when
we decided to sell the company and we didn’t
know who was going to buy it. I was in the
middle because I was part of the family but I
also felt like I belonged to him.”
Yet, he was unanimously beloved at Fen-
di. Here, he was always just Karl, contrary
to Monsieur Lagerfeld at Chanel in Paris.
“I never heard him scream at anyone in all
those years. Never once. He was very gen-
erous, with others more than himself. He
was very concentrated on his work, espe-
cially after Jacques died,” Silvia says, refer-
ring to De Bascher, Lagerfeld’s partner of
18 years, who died in 1989. Was Karl hap-
py? “Yes, I really think he was. I think he had
a beautiful life. The people who worked with
him were his family. He achieved what he
wanted. I think he found, in his work, his way
of being happy.” n
281
>>The starting point
“The inspiration was everything I love. It’s sexy,
fly, hood, fun and classic—all at the same time. I
wanted to do something different.... There were
no rules. The patterns are classic Fendi with
my signature pink. It’s their identity and mine
coming together for something legendary.”
just wanted to be able to afford Fendi. When you see the monogram, it
to a collection of ready-to-wear and makes a statement,” says Minaj. We asked the rapper and Silvia Ven-
accessories. By Priyanka Khanna turini Fendi to tell us more. ■
<<On
workin’ it
“[When I first wore
this collection] I felt
like a superhero. It’s
empowering. It makes SILVIA VENTURINI
a statement. It’s iconic. FENDI
It 100 per cent reflects “Fashion and music have
my personality. It a universal language.
doesn’t miss a beat.” We invited Nicki to the
fashion show and that’s
where I met her for the
first time. In her lyrics,
Good girl
gone bad
Actor Bhumi Pednekar
BLAZING INFERNO takes a break from her
It’s the kind of spark that modern- raw, reel-life characters to
day fairy tales are made of: a
smattering of multihued glitter
channel our December
around the lids that playfully vibe—smokin’ hot.
explodes into a kaleidoscope of
iridescent colours. Try this, and By Sneha Mankani
you’ll be creating a whimsical
statement with each wink. Photographed by ERRIKOS ANDREOU
Jacket, Dhruv Kapoor Styled by FABIO IMMEDIATO
A
splatter of holographic last few years, she might have reduced mix it with apple cider vinegar and use
glitter, an exaggerated ge- the amount of makeup she wears it twice a month to clear out my pores
ometry of jet-black pig- because her skin reacts to it, but when and increase blood circulation. I carry
ment, a wash of molten I was younger she would go all out. I my hydrating Egyptian Magic All
gold—“Will she or won’t she?”—the remember watching her get dressed, Purpose Skin Cream everywhere. In
collective thought lingered as the crew right from applying kohl and lipstick, the morning, I use a light, water-based
fixed their eyes on the makeup mood to the way she wore her hair. At the moisturiser like Tatcha Water Cream
board. “I love it, let’s do this!” squealed time, she wore it short. I had a big and a medicated sunscreen. I scrub
a beaming Bhumi Pednekar as she problem with that, because everyone once a week and visit my dermatologist
made her way through our little group else’s mothers had long hair. This one for a good facial (like high-tech derma-
to see what the fuss was about. time, she got it permed—something cleaning and carbon spectra) every 15
From an overweight bride in her that wasn’t common in India—I was days. I even have my own laser light
Bollywood debut, Dum Laga Ke Hai- upset and told her that no mothers do machine that I brought from Bangkok.
sha (2015), to a sexagenarian sharp- this. Today, I realise she was ahead of I put a lot of time, effort and money
shooter in her latest, Saand Ki Aankh, her time. I slowly began to appreciate into my skin. You could have the best
Pednekar’s on-screen personas have her style, the way she carries herself, makeup artist, but if you have bad skin
tackled many feminist issues sans and her confidence. My parents never it’s not going to work.”
makeup. On that rainy day, though,
she was simply—and finally—playing
herself: the experimental, self-con-
My fitness journey…
“...has been intense. I’ve lost over
fessed beauty hoarder who can
35kg, after gaining 30kg for a film.
recite every shade from the lipstick
lexicon, works out to trance, and has
IN MY KIT Since then, it’s been a constant process
of improvement—but I didn’t do it by
introduced makeup pros to products • NARS Radiant starving myself. I work really hard; it’s
from her travel hauls. Here, she tells Creamy Concealer become an active part of my routine.
us more. • Fresh Tinted Lip Treatment
I like to mix it up—pilates, running,
• Too Faced Better Than
My beauty vibe…
want parents.” chicken, pesto and avocado. I start and
end my day with a shot of aloe vera.
“…depends on my mood. There are
days when I’ll conceal my eyes, maybe
My skincare routine… Intermittent fasting has changed my
life; I do it for 16-20 hours.”
“…is thorough. After my weight
spot-correct and put on some tint. At
My secret smoothie…
gain for Dum Lage Ke Haisha,
other times, I’ll go full-blown—do
my hormones went crazy when I
my brows and contour my nose and
tried to knock it all off. I had a bad “...blends coconut milk and almond
cheeks. I like to keep it on fleek ”
bout of acne, and ever since, I’ve milk with vanilla essence, stevia and
My beauty bestie…
realised how important it is to have a unsweetened cocoa powder.”
committed relationship with my skin.
My happy space…
“...has always been my mum. She’s a I tried everything—from scrubbing,
natural beauty. I’ve learnt a lot from cleansing, toning and moisturising to
SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
her. All my beauty firsts have been using different kinds of masks—until “...is more a happy state [of mind].
with her. The first time I waxed, for I found a routine that worked. I am Eating right, working out and being
instance, she did it for me. Over the obsessed with the Aztec clay mask. I healthy takes me there.” ■
phone a friend
The science of skincare changes at breakneck speed,
with opinions on orders, proportions, layers and
formulas changing every day. Not sure what to add or
switch out? Four experts clear the air. By Avanti Dalal
If you’ve been dipping into the same jar since college, it might be
approach, Dr Mittal prefers laser treatments.
time to switch it up, says Dr Rao. “The medical term for the body’s
“Technology has progressed tremendously,
diminishing response to a drug is tachyphylaxis. Any drug, if taken
and laser is considered one of the best options
over a prolonged period of time, loses its efficacy as your body gets
for permanent hair reduction,” she says. ■
accustomed to it. As your body’s largest organ, your skin behaves
in a similar manner,” she says. Since your skin’s reactivity changes
with age, weather fluctuations and stress, a six-monthly or yearly
check-in with your skin can help fine-tune your routine.
@ Rebecca_Ste
R: ll
a
E INFLUENC
2.
From
experimental
looks to acing ll
e is a
highlighting, sh hetics
H
est
3. about getting a er for
T
right. Follow h travel
ls,
makeup tutoria d nail
beauty tips an
art inspiration.
lands and Åland, have fascinated the dive in. matory and antibacterial), lingonberry
world with their otherworldly topogra- (for hydration and pigmentation), and
phy, inclusive lifestyles and minimal THE RITUAL rowanberry (stimulates blood circula-
design aesthetics. But their beauty rit- Ice baths and saunas are no-brainers. tion and encourages glowing skin). ■
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beauty
mber Diet
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e a l p la n to ke
The ultimate m mising on fun
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irulina,
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MORNING: atgrass powder mixed with w ired
U ate
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moringa or rh o u se s o f e n ergy (much e
e
These are pow rs of partying) and detoxify th larly.
u u
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l w
body. Essentia le
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BREAKFAST ful of nuts. It’s easy on the gu
t and
d
ruling the end of the year, lifestyle and juice and a han ep you full.
ke
the protein will ins in
weight management specialist Vishakha v in g d inner out, skip gra
u ’r e h a
Shivdasani’s December diet rules will help LUNCH: If yo and veggies.
te in
favour of pro s,
trim the guilt. By Sheree Gomes Gupta lo w -g ly c em ic fruits like apple
ave ek
EVENING: H A bowl of non-flavoured Greo.
ie s. to
pears or berr n avocado work as a snack
a
yoghurt or half
n of
atin g o u t, te a m a small portio ulge in
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ip .
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is
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• Lemon wate helps you sleep better at n
replenishes lo r with Himalayan salt (av ht
ig
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• Black coffe electrolytes
e helps a nast
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caused due to a diuretic that gets rid of b
water retentio lo
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THE VOGUE GUIDE TO YOUR BEAUTIFUL MONTH
A SHOW OF HANDS A B O W
Since our fingers text, type, IE
T ou can gift a friend or fam-cilyaremehmambeprer
write and swipe, it’s only fair to hat y A self
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h ay
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s to ing
right moisturiser—not too chalky, usually come slowing down and indulg rating jasmine tonique
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h
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90
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THE PROCESS: Coconut milk oil is created by hand-pressing fresh coconut flesh, then leaving it to ferment slowly.
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Beauty Legend
Sharmila Tagore
Beauty Icon
Alia Bhatt The big 10 !
2019’s Vogue Beauty Awards marked a
decade of celebrating the best in the business
Vogue x Trends
Man of the Year
Vicky Kaushal
Fresh Face
Male Siddhant
Chaturvedi
n S t ars
er - S c r eme Bollywood who
v
Silbeautiful faces frrts this year
o
The hea
won our
la ck - o u t moody
Bsequins and slits—dates
p
Ruffles, got many fun u
blac k
Man of the
Decade Shahid
Kapoor
Beauty Warrior
Sonali Bendre Behl
Fresh Face
Female Sara
Ali Khan
Best Fitness
Expert
Sohrab VOGUE BEAUTY AWARDS
Khushrushahi
Best Model
Anjali Lama
Sahher
Bambba
Kirti Kulhari
Malavika
Mohanan
Jury member
Mallika Tarkas
Parekh
Swara
Bhasker
Host of the Rakul Preet
evening, Kusha Singh
Kapila
Radhika Madan
Vogue’s Sneha
Red carpet host, Mankani
Zeeshan Ali
Jury member
Bhumi
Pednekar
Tara
Sharma
Shamita Shetty
er G a n gs
Gpalrkilet,tshimmer and lot
S of stars
Shilpa Shetty
Rahi Kundra Kalki
Chadda Koechlin
Aditya
Seal
Amrita Arora Sunny
Ladak Leone
Aparshakti
Khurana
Jury member
Tohcke, aR —these
st
little roll the red carpet
Surveen
Chawla
A little r super cool on
played it
Rikee
Chatterjee
Gul Panag
Jury member
Rosemin
Manji
ABHEET GIDWANI; KEDAR NENE; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Gabriella
Demetriades
Sara Ali
Khan
channels Radhika Apte and
her Pataudi Alia Bhatt cheer
elegance for their favourites
The cool
boys Siddhant
Chaturvedi and
enosttscandid
Shahid Kapoor
M om
into the m
A peek
stances of the night
in
Sonali Bendre
Behl and husband
Goldie Behl’s
picture-perfect
moment
Don’t get us wrong—we’re all for minimalism. nature and diverse cultures. With an emphasis Modern—as well as at concept stores in Dubai,
That said, we must confess that no look is on handcrafting accessories that are ethical Oman, Athens, Miami, Sydney, Istanbul,
complete without the right accessories. And and that spotlight Indian artisans, Nomada’s Casablanca and Corsica. Better still, the brand
a pretty bag can do wonders. For some offerings flaunt quirky design elements like has collaborated with a number of international
inspiration, look no further than Nomada. bugs, birds, fruits and palm trees. Even better, brands like Juicy Couture and Stirling Cooper.
Founded by friends Sana Shakoor and Divya the brand custom-crafts their accessories to In fact, luxury beauty brands Bobbi Brown,
Batra, accessories brand Nomada offers up a lend them a personalised touch. Estée Lauder and Clinique, along with real
range of bags that draw inspiration from travel, Now, with the launch of their Talisman estate company MAIA Estates and Mumbai
collection, Nomada is setting serious eye candy eatery Sequel Bistro, have also collaborated
Sana Shakoor goals—quite literally. Inspired by a trip Sana with Nomada to create unique gifting solutions.
took to Istanbul, the signature motif of the So, whether you’re looking to glam up
line is a raffia embroidered evil eye, which can your wardrobe with statement accessories
be found across a variety of bag styles—from or surprise your mum, sister or best
zippers and fanny packs to clutches and slings. girlfriend with something extra special this
Sana shares, “We wanted to create a bag that gifting season, consider Nomada’s pretty
women across cultures could relate to and personalised accessories.
something they could carry as a good luck
charm…but in a way that was fashionable.” For more information, visit Nomada.in
Today, you can find Nomada’s accessories or email info@nomada.in
at a number of chic boutiques across the
country—from Clove, Atosa, Le Mill, Aza
and Melange to Angadi Heritage and Jaipur
beauty The stage was all set for the
10th edition of the Vogue
Beauty Awards
Vogue’s Renuka
Modi, Priya Tanna
g s P r e t t ynd
AaplshlotTs ohf tihne bethsteinevbeenainugtysapecial
and Dilshad Arora
Sn ho made
iness, w
bus
The beautiful
table setting
for the evening
Shazé’s Srija
Srinivasan
Condé Nast’s
Alex Kuruvilla with
Anushka Rajan Aditya Parekh
Doshii and
Priyanka Khanna
Karishma
Tanna
Iman Allana
L’Oréal Group’s
Rachit Mathur
Kusha Kapila
wearing a
Tissot watch
Surabhi and
Nachiket Barve
Jury member
Avan
Contractor
COTY’s Nykaa’s Oona
Madhavi Dhabhar
Shriya Marathe
Pilgaonkar
ABHEET GIDWANI; KEDAR NENE; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Jury member
Sobhita
Dhulipala at the
Shazé booth Team Beauty Concepts Nisha Singh
Monisha Jayaram,
Candice Pinto Aeshna Gupta and
and Drew Neal Vishal Gurtu
TRAVEL
20 FOR
2020
Go off the grid in a national
park or lose yourself on a
walking tour. Fall asleep in a
city and wake up on an island—
modern luxury affords travel
fantasies that are anything but
THE BOUNDARY
1 VEL R E S P O N S I B LY
TRA ass tourism threatens remote communities,
As the impact of m en t, ca n luxury ecotourism
destinations an d the en vi ro nm
ive ch ange ? It ca n, w ith thoughtful journeys for
foster posit ys Neeti Mehra
high -im pact trave llers , sa crisis and our growing carbon foot-
print—but can we give up travel alto-
gether? With new destinations for the
rile up seasoned travellers. But even itinerant tourist and a growing num-
Two decades as a travel writer can be before the kombucha-guzzling VSCO ber of communities to engage with, re-
insightful. Many moons ago, seated in girl pranced on to the scene with her sponsible tourism is no longer academ-
the gilded hall of a Michelin restau- hydro flask in tow, #TravelDeeper had ia’s artefact but a way to attempt
rant, my fork plunged into a quivering become the norm. Today, we are served offsetting the negative impact of travel.
jelly and a suspicious piece of edible, food plucked from kitchen gardens, In 2002, the Cape Town Declaration
singed by a torch beyond recognition. water filtered on site, meat that is on Responsible Tourism penned down
On my table, the sparkling water was grass-fed and experiences that are what this head-scratching, amorphous
from a brook in the Alps, the fish from community driven—all affirming that term meant. Paraphrasing, the goal of
a far-off continent, the meat from the we are #NotATourist. responsible tourism is economic devel-
Savannah and the vegetables coaxed The thirst of discovery, the novelty of opment, social justice and environ-
out of a hothouse in the boondocks. exploration and the desire to seek new mental integrity. At its core, it is travel
The only object that had sweat the experiences has sprung open the that conserves the environment and
least in travel miles was me. Luxury remotest corners of the world like a sustains the well-being of local people.
had been served, and it wasn’t pretty. clapboard, but left in its wake a trail of For Sonu Shivdasani, CEO and joint
Today, such vaudeville excess can detritus. We cannot ignore the climate creative director of the sustainable meta-
ism Organization, in 2018, there were a Theyyam, tramp through paddy fields recounts that the post-independence
staggering 1.8 billion tourist arrivals or learn about the indigenous practice era of communism in Kerala focused
worth $1.7 trillion. But can this world of scurrying up coconut trees. Kerala on healthcare, education, democra-
survive the stomping of 2X feet? was, after all, one of the first states in cy, human rights and agriculture,
rather than rapid industrialisa-
tion. In hindsight, it created a posi-
tive ambience for tourism with its
egalitarian outlook and natural
beauty. “Red kept Kerala green,”
he notes. Sanguinely, Kerala’s >
TRAVEL SHOULD
CONSERVE THE
ENVIRONMENT
AND SUSTAIN THE
WELL-BEING OF
LOCAL PEOPLE
Luxury camp at
Suján Sher Bagh,
Ranthambore
tented camp in plaintive guttural (tharavads) into be the answer? THE BRANDO SINGITA
Ranthambore. desert songs of a stunning resort Mozambique’s Using local, VOLCANOES
Kaki, Suryagarh in Kumarakom, Kisawa Sanctuary, renewable and NATIONAL
SURYAGARH is preserving this CGH Earth which opens in early recycled material, PARK
With the melodies Jaisalmer’s musical property celebrates 2020, combines this stunning retreat Inspired by Rwanda’s
of Mehboob Khan heritage. and preserves the skills of artisans in French Polynesia natural heritage,
and his family of Kerala’s architectural from Benguerra uses a deep seawater Singita Kwitonda
manganiyars, the COCONUT splendour. Island with patented air-conditioning Lodge worked with
sound of the double LAGOON 3D technology to system and local artisans to
algoza flute by Transplanting KISAWA create a resort with a renewable energy create its volcanic
flautist Shakoor abandoned noble SANCTUARY light environmental sources like solar stone walls and
Khan, and the agrarian mansions Can 3D printing footprint. power and biofuel. woven ceilings.
Auroville is a
The utopian township of
tou rism , where you can
model of responsible
rest India, which
volunteer with Sadhana Fo
or learn sustainable
focuses on reforestation,
mb oo Centre
farming at the Auroville Ba
Tourism Department created the eru- managing director of Ibex Expeditions, HOW TO...
dite tagline ‘God’s Own Country’ and and curator of fascinating expeditions BE A RESPONSIBLE
marketed its swathes of green, dreamy in desolate regions of the world, is also TRAVELLER
backwaters and the miracle of Ayurve- the founder president of the Ecotour- An eight-step guide by Mandip Singh
da to far corners of the globe while ism Society of India, now called Re- Soin, founder president, Ecotourism
building on responsible tourism. sponsible Tourism Society of India. Society of India
The government partnered with The eco watchdog conducts workshops
the people, fostering for best green practices 1. Don’t get your towels and bedsheets
growth, says Gopinath across India while certi- changed every day.
2. Carry a flask or water bottle to cut
Parayil, founder of con- “TRAVELLERS fying hotels according to
down on single-use plastic.
scious holiday company approved sustainable
The Blue Yonder, which NEED TO BE tourism criteria. “Indi-
3. Bring back non-biodegradable
garbage from any nature visit or
curates magical immer- CONSCIOUS ans have evolved from trek, observing the ‘pack in-pack
sive experiences in Ker- ABOUT playing loud radios in out’ principle. ‘Ocean Forest’
ala. One of them is a nature, but have a long 4. Donate on every trip for a bottle, S’well
two-week exploration of WHERE THEY way to go,” says Singh cause around wildlife or x Liberty
the meandering River GO AND HOW Soin. We’re penny wise community support. London, 2,505
5. While booking your airline,
Nila that unfurls the
cultural and societal
THEY SPEND rather than ecocon-
scious, notes Pariyal: offset your carbon footprint
soul of the region. “It’s a THEIR MONEY” “Sustainability and re- with services like TreeSisters, a
transformative experi- sponsibility are add-ons, reforestation programme started
—SO NU S H I V DASAN I by a global network of women.
ence,” he says, echoing rather than priorities.”
6. Substitute disposables such as wet
a sentiment that sums So, how can one travel wipes with cotton towels.
COURTESY @LISAHAYDON/INSTAGRAM; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
up the narrative of responsible tourism. responsibly? Understand the region, 7. Support local and in-season
and your impact on its community and produce. Do not consume
GREEN FEET environment before you pack your LV banned or endangered species
But Kerala isn’t the only one making valise. “Responsible tourism is about of fish and meat. While
green strides. Other noteworthy states creating better places for people to live shopping, be aware of
are Madhya Pradesh, for its iconic tiger and for people to visit,” adds Pariyal. banned and endangered
conservation at the national parks of The next frontier, according to Domi- items such as Shahtoosh
Bandhavgarh, Pench, Kanha and Pan- nic, is transforming India’s rural land- shawls and certain seashells.
8. While camping, don’t
na, and Sikkim, which has gone plastic- scape via tourism. Engage, learn and
pollute freshwater streams
free and offers organic farming, creat- give back to the people. It’s essential in by bathing with soap or
ing layered experiences for the jaded an increasingly insular world to be ‘Steelery’ washing dishes. Take water
traveller. truly welcome in the homes and hearts set (cutlery 100ft away for your needs.
Mandip Singh Soin, the founder and of your hosts. and straw),
Minimo, 290
first sight
SWIMWEAR
Wetsuits by Cynthia Rowley,
Hunza G and Margiela and Melissa
POINT DUME, MALIBU Odabash’s classic cuts.
ACCESSORY
Metallic gold Havaianas.
VANITY CASE
‘Tampa’ 1. Kérastase Elixir ultime’ oil serum,
halterneck ‘Nutritive’ leave-in cream. 2. Vertra
pique SPF 50 lotion. Sun Bum SPF 70 and
swimsuit, Sun Bum SPF 70 and Vertra’s 2
Melissa zinc-based SPF 50 lotion.
Odabash, 3. Kiehl’s Baby Lip Balm
19,380
L’Occitane’s Almond
Supple Skin Oil, SK
II’s face spray, AS
Apothecary’s Sussex
1
Rose Aromatic Water,
2
and waxing strips. 3
LOVE: We holidayed
at Point Dume this
T Surf spot
S P O
summer. It has a very
chill vibe and the best
surf breaks in Malibu. U R
FIND YO E SUN
THE PASS, BYRON
BAY, AUSTRALIA
Beach ho
m STAY: Fernhill plane ride from Barbados net) for cocktail
Fernhill D e at Drive is one of brings you to this intimate parties every Tuesday.
rive
the few streets private Caribbean island that
MUSTIQUE ISLAND
3
Nepal-Tibet border
is
home to some of th
e
oldest Tibetan mon
asteries
PUSH YOUR
L IM IT
A new breed of traveller
S
is skipping
breakfast buffets in favour of
treacherous treks and tricky
triathlons, finds Shivani Krishan
4
to run marathons, 28-year-old cycling
enthusiast Shirin Kekre, whose next
O VISIT
trip is the 643km-long Pune to Goa cy- WHEN T
May -
CRUISE
cling race called Deccan Cliffhanger, or
November
34-year-old PR professional Anushka
Gurnaney, who recently returned Saint Louis offers
from an arduous trek to Everest Base
Camp. “Climbing 17,500ft is tough, WITHOUT barge tours in
South West France
and while you stand a good chance of
making it to Base Camp, your fitness
levels (or lack thereof) will define
A CROWD
whether the experience thrills or near- Ditch the horde for
ly kills you,” she warns. an intimate barg
e
What is it that makes Gurnaney’s experience, sugg
tribe ditch the comfort of a warm bed ests
for a six-days-a-week training sched- Prachi Joshi
ule, an alcohol-free diet or often
threadbare accommodation? For her,
it was seeing ice-capped mountains Europe by sea—been there, done that? commune of Le Mas-d’Agenais, where
COURTESY PRACHI JOSHI; ANUSHKA GURNANEY;
and crystal-clear water IRL, as op- Not without a thousand people on board, Saint Louis docks.
SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; GETTY IMAGES; PANKAJ
posed to on Instagram. For Avlani, and not on a barge cruise. Europe’s Hop off to taste Armagnac at a fourth-
who has run marathons from Buenos intricate network of rivers and canals was generation distillery or admire the lily garden
ANAND; NIKKI TO; LOPEZ DE ZUBIRIA
Aires to Boston, running started as a once used to transport cargo on barges. of Latour-Marliac, which famously inspired
way to stay fit but is now a way of life. These vessels have now been resurrected Monet to create his own. In Bordeaux, a visit
as floating boutique hotels. Aboard the to the sun-kissed village of Saint-Émilion has
Millennials, it seems, have found the
luxurious yet intimate Saint Louis (with to be on the itinerary, as should a tasting of
key to happiness and the ultimate de- three en-suite cabins for six guests), your Grand Cru Chateaux wines. Back on the
tox: extreme physical exertion in glori- pace automatically slows down. Perhaps it’s Saint Louis, enjoy a multicourse gourmet
ous, unfamiliar and picture-perfect the champagne welcome, the placid waters meal, paired with fabulous French wine and
surroundings. of Canal de Garonne and the sleepy even better cheese. Bargeladycruises.com
5
F L
E OR und a goo
E T H W
ST E
WONTON
Salt crusted
beetroot with
Celeriac shawarma caviar cream
NOMA, COPENHAGEN QUAY, SYDNEY MIRAZUR, MENTON
René Redzepi’s season-themed menus are Peter Gilmore’s 80-seater restaurant Number one on The Worlds 50 Best
backed by extensive research and clever is “an appropriate example of modern Restaurants list, this three-Michelin-
experimentation. Noma’s reservations Australian cuisine. Plus the view of starred restaurant in France
book out minutes after opening: “I Sydney Opera House and Harbour thrives on its seasonal menu. “It’s
reserved about four months in advance,” Bridge is hard to beat,” says Shannon high up on my 2020 wish list,” says
recalls Aditi Dugar, co-founder Masque. D’Souza, founder of KC Roasters. Vogue India’s food editor, Sonal Ved.
www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2019 315
living
TRAVEL
SPECIAL
6
CHECK-IN
AND CHgILoutL? If that
Unwind with an Is staying in the new goin bookmark
plan,
unlimited lake view
sounds like your kind of 10 best in-hotel
of the
Praachi Raniwala’s list
from the spa at Leela
across India
Palace Udaipur
ex p eriences to indulge in
MIX IT UP in DELHI
It’s always gin o’clock at Andaz Delhi’s
Juniper Bar, also India’s first gin bar, which
stocks 35 varieties of the spirit. Cocktail
enthusiasts will be drawn to the Gin
101 masterclass hosted by its in-house
mixologists. Start by learning the tipple’s
origins, followed by a tasting session, and The Roseate Ganges
is located at the
end with DIY cocktails using pan-Indian foothills of the
ingredients like Kashmiri kahwa and Garhwal Himalayas
cardamom from Kerala. Hyatt.com
GO SOUL-SEARCHING in RISHIKESH
The Roseate Ganges is tailor-made for
your next digital detox. Stow away your
Macbook and give in to its daily yoga and
meditation sessions. Aheli Spa is where
to be for bespoke wellness experiences,
a dose of relaxation, some stress
management or Ayurvedic therapies.
SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Roseatehotels.com
7
ploring Stone Town when its intricate
doors were almost obscured by cur-
tains of rain felt a lot like navigating
T IN T H E
Córdoba under an oppressive veil of
W A L K I N G
proached 45 degrees and everyone re-
F
ART O and unexpected, Sarah Khan
treated for siesta: both involved uncov-
ering moments of magic through
discomfort, but allowed me to have two
Efficient, intimate ginal way to travel of the world’s most atmospheric cities
pays trib ute to the ori all to myself.
GREAT STRIDES
Like most frequent fliers, I have an sconced in Ubers and Olas, we whizz That’s not to say that I’ve eschewed
arsenal of measures I’ve fashioned into by cityscapes with our gaze stuck to all other forms of transportation.
a routine over a lifetime of travel: dis- our phones. But when travel is reduced Island-hopping on a traditional dhow
HASHIM BADANI; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; GETTY IMAGES; STOCKFOOD.IN
infect the tray table, screen, seat belt to a successive series of destinations— in Mozambique, riding century-old
and armrest the moment I slip into my hotel to museum, museum to restau- funiculars up steep mountains in Swit-
seat on a plane. Stash a backup credit rant, restaurant to shop, shop to ho- zerland, horseback riding in Montana,
card in the hotel safe. Pack a set of re- tel—we are prone to bypassing the quad biking in the Namibian desert,
sistance bands to squeeze in a work- very fabric of a city while coasting hot-air ballooning above the phan-
out. Decant serums and foundation along its embroidery. Travel is all tasmagoric landscape of Cappadocia,
into contact lens cases for easy trans- about discovery: strolling past a petite zipping around Cape Town’s jaw-drop-
port. But the single most important cafe that made you double-take or me- ping Chapmans Peak Drive in vintage
thing I do when I embark on an adven- andering through a colourful neigh- motorcycle sidecars, or floating down
ture in a new city is one I’ve been doing bourhood just because it’s there and the Rhine clinging to a Wickelfisch
since before I could talk: I walk. not because Yelp told you to. Whenev- to stay afloat. And seaplanes, steam
When is the last time you abandoned er time or weather allows, I choose to trains and snowmobiles? I’ve done
all agendas and just roamed—not out set out on foot, experimenting with them all.
of necessity or while robotically thumb- new routes to watch the streets unfold. At some of India’s best hotels, the
ing through likes and retweets? En- In Zanzibar, at the height of the mon- arrival is part of the experience,
9
golden rule of ‘no raw after four’,
I also realised that my ‘redemp-
F- C A R E
tive’ salad dinners were actually
L
PLAN A SE TION
terrible for my digestive system.
At the end of my two-week stint,
g piñ a co lada for Eps w elln es s industry is ture (sans iPhone), was calm.
app in the
Sw
ts ou t to e xperience how ch a rg e w eary souls But does the Mayr effect last? It did,
Bhatt se nal travel to re for months after my stay. And even
an sform atio
embracing tr
when I slid back into old habits, many
lessons I learnt had found a perma-
eating ‘the Mayr’ way). It’s hardly rem- nent home in my routine. VIVAMAYR
iniscent of a typical holiday. taught me that vacations don’t need to
“Why would you do that?” is the stand- be about indulgence, but rather some
ard response to expect while talking NEW BEGINNINGS much-needed R&R for your body and
about planning a trip to VIVAMAYR. Once considered niche, the wellness mind. And if self-care means going on
Yet, the European wellness hotspot re- travel industry is now estimated at a holiday every now and then, who am I
In 2017, Chandra
travelled to the Travel is the greatest teacher in life, we
US for a bacon- are told, and there is no better way to
making workshop absorb a place than to learn what it does ADD-ONS
best. From cheesemaking in Zurich to
poi-spinning in Goa, educational vacations Learn authentic
are fast becoming a way to tap into our Thai cooking at
hidden talents. Like chef Manu Chandra Mandarin Oriental’s
of Toast & Tonic, who tried his hand at culinary school.
bacon-making at a workshop in Georgia, Mandarinoriental.
Atlanta. “I decided to take a course at Pine com
Street Market, an artisanal meat market in
the US,” he shares. “It involved visiting the Get a crash course
farm to see how the animals are reared in in pottery at Tokyo’s
11
humane conditions, learning about Saideigama.
the fat-to-meat ratio and observing Saideigama.com
LEARN AS
processes like dry hanging, curing
and smoking,” he adds. The A global network of
learnings came in handy when farming enthusiasts,
PLAN IT
12
BOTH
WAYS WHEN TO
VISIT
Helsinki
BY S U H A N I PA R E K H Chihuahua Jule
p
offers a seas on al
If the Danes gave us LEGO and the ils
Swedes gave us IKEA, the Finns gave menu of cockta
us Artek and Marimekko, two brands
that introduced the world to modern
design. Jewellery designer Suhani
Parekh of Misho offers a day-to-night
guide to Helsinki, the city of makeshift
galleries, vinyl markets and Insta-wor-
thy architecture.
DAY NIGHT
8am: Grab a coffee and blueberry muf- 5pm: Löyly (Loylyhelsinki.fi), a modern
fin to go, at the bakery at Hotel St sauna, is not only an architectural gem
George (Stgeorgehelsinki.com). Then dio unfold a library from the future. offering uninterrupted views of the Bal-
cut across Esplanadi Park to explore 12pm: Stroll on Aleksanterinkatu, a tic, but also a great space to mix with
cobbled streets lined with picture-per- street filled with design stores, galler- locals as you enjoy a sunset sauna with
fect pastel homes before you arrive at ies and art nouveau structures. a side of lingonberry G&Ts.
the neoclassical Helsinki Cathedral. 1pm: A long lunch at Ultima (Restau- 8pm: Summer dinners at the Savoy
9.30am: Follow the wind towards the rant-ultima.fi), a chic concept restau- (Savoyhelsinki.fi) afford a stunning
harbour, to the market square, where rant that experiments with sustaina- view, courtesy the late-setting sun. Try
you’ll find the Old Market Hall (Van- ble food, is highly recommended. the pike perch, steamed and served
hakauppahalli.fi). Finland’s oldest in- Watch your greens grow in a vertical with almond potato from Lapland,
door market, it serves incredible tradi- system built along the walls, where Carelian caviar and hollandaise sauce.
tional treats like Finnish Easter eggs, aeroponic potatoes rest in columns and 10pm: Designed like a greenhouse,
fried muikku (a freshwater whitefish), mushrooms wait in glass balls before Kappeli (Raflaamo.fi) serves unmissa-
GETTY IMAGES; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
and pulla (a delicious cardamom- they hit the pan. ble crème brûlée and chocolate ganache.
scented bread filled with loganberries). 3pm: Ullanlinna, one of Helsinki’s 11pm: Hit one of Helsinki’s speakeas-
10.30am: Helsinki Central Library design districts, is the perfect place to ies. Ring the doorbell to enter Chihua-
Oodi (Oodihelsinki.fi), with its undu- check out galleries, vintage markets hua Julep (Chihuahuajulep.fi), which
lating roof punctuated by circular sky- and picture-perfect architecture. Don’t offers seasonal cocktails, a tech detox
lights, is a sight to behold. Inside, a miss Huvilakatu, a long street lined (smartphones are forbidden), and a
cooking studio, a PlayStation room, a with a row of art nouveau buildings in complete glam retro feel with vintage
3D printing facility and recording stu- pastel shades. sofas.—As told to Akanksha Kamath
March
- August
Gefion Fountain
near Kastellet
Courtyard of the
Rococo-style
e
Amalienborg Palac
March
Stockholm
SPECIAL
- June
B Y N I T YA C H A B L A N I
In Scandinavia’s largest city, quaint cafes meet inter-
nationally acclaimed restaurants and age-old bou-
tiques sit minutes away from new-age stores. Stock-
holm, the bastion of style, is home to an array of labels.
When shopping gets too much, step out to taste the
city’s culinary delights or unwind in true Swedish style
with a coffee break or fika, as they call it.
Breakfast spread at
Ett Hem
Oaxen Krog
focuses on farm-
plucked meals
Hope curates
fashionable finds
from Scandinavian
designers
FOOD
Sturehof: Made up of 14
islands, Stockholm’s seafood scene is
FASHION hard to beat. At this brasserie, a local
By Malina: Inside designer Malin An- favourite, try and stop at just one
drén’s store, you will find lace-detailed fresh-from-the-sea oyster. It’s a chal-
dresses, floral resort-ready separates lenge. Sturehof.com
and bridal wear straight out of a fairy
tale. And then there’s the latest addi- Speceriet: This blink-and-miss eat-
tion to the By Malina family—Mini ery is a small place with big flavour.
Malina, key kids wear that goes the With a menu of sharing plates (no
extra mile. Bymalina.com main courses here), it’s the right place
to mix with the locals. Speceriet.se
Hope: Featuring the works of design-
ers from neighbouring Scandinavian Oaxen Krog: Using organic, ethically
countries, this store’s off-kilter ap- and sustainably sourced Nordic ingre-
proach to fashion encourages shoppers dients, this farm-to-fork restaurant
to cross boundaries with their sartorial has a menu of home-style dishes (think
choices. How, you ask? Walk in here, grilled pork, roasted potatoes and
COURTESY ANNA MÅRTENSSON; GETTY IMAGES; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
and you’ll find menswear mixed with cheese) that you can add to your com-
RODEBJER
13
I’d go there in the middle
of the day, or at midnight. and an atmosphere that feels
I’d sit in the same seats I both lively and chill, insider-
EXPLORE WITHOUT
sit in now.” ish and open-armed.”
Dominic Smith
MOVING AN INCH
THE ELECTRIC HOTEL In these transportive novels, the settings—from
(Sarah Crichton Books) Jamaica to a Russian neighbourhood in China—play Nicole Dennis-Benn
A star director of the a central role. Keziah Weir asks the authors to PATSY (Liveright)
silent-film era revisits the recommend their favourite local spots Patsy, a loving but reluctant
muse and the masterpiece mother, leaves her daughter
that upended his life. behind in Jamaica to pursue
a long-yearned-for life, and
“Los Angeles’s Hollywood love, in America.
Pantages Theatre is
where vaudeville meets the “Whenever I return to
American movie palace. Jamaica, I visit Tastee, in
You can still see touring Cross Roads. The patties
theatrical productions here are baked to a crisp and the
and experience the art deco restaurant brings back fond
excesses of a different time: memories of my childhood:
opulent ceilings and statues family outings, the wildness
like the Byzantine gods of of Kingston, Saturdays spent
Old Hollywood.” at the hairdresser, the luring
smell of Tastee’s patties
baking nearby.” >
Daniel Nieh
BEIJING PAYBACK (Ecco)
living July
TRAVEL -September
SPECIAL
14
LIVE OUT Different species of
AN EPISODE
salmon, from sockeye Salgaocar planned
to coho and chum to a week-long trip to
chinook, swim upstream, Katmai with a stopover
OF PLANET
enticing grizzles to at Anchorage
come out and hunt
into a floatplane to fly to the nearest August and September when grizzlies that we would spot grizzlies in action.
lake. The crisp air and the sheer beauty But as we sat observing the salmon, a
and vastness of the Alaskan Tundra— grizzly darted into the river and caught
with its landscape of shrubs, mosses
and lichens that cover the mountain-
“[GRIZZLIES] MAY LOOK one as gulls noisily scavenged about.
In that moment, as I watched the bear
sides, and valleys that are dotted with CUDDLY, BUT THEIR in its element and took in the vast beau-
small lakes, no trees and gorgeous CLAWS CAN CUT ty of the Alaskan Tundra, I came to
skies—was truly magical. After wading understand why being in the wilderness
through shallow water, crossing rivu- A HUMAN IN HALF WITH is not only physically rewarding, but
lets and trekking for over an hour, we A SINGLE SWIPE” spiritually too. >
Mittellegi Hutte,
flanked by the
Swiss Alps
15
SIGN UP FOR AN
ACTIVE GETAto W AY Everest Base
Camp
diving in Hawaii,
erland
From alpine climbing in Switz ers for a lowdown on their
l seek
Tanuj Kumar asks three thril nd where to pursue them)
(a
adrenaline-charged activities
1
tion to scale an 8,000-metre peak. She mental oxygen. In winter the same
actualised this dream in 2010, when, at year, she had to stop just 70 metres Walk to Khoton Lake, a scenic
the age of 23, she became the youngest short of the summit of Nanga Parbat lake surrounded by mountains in
woman to climb Lhotse in Nepal, (8,126 metres). On land, it sounds like northwest Mongolia.
2
which at 8,516 metres is the fourth- a short hop, but at that altitude, each
Hike to Mittellegi Hutte, a
GETTY IMAGES; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
3
peaks. Many consider Alpine style to kistan, refusing to let a back injury
be the truest form of mountaineering from last year dampen her spirits. “I Trek to Everest Base Camp,
as it doesn’t rely on porters and sup- love the mountains,” she says, “it’s which can be attempted by
port teams. You lug your stuff (tents, where I feel most at home.” anybody who is reasonably fit
I N E B I O LO G I S T, think I began to chase that combina- If you’re gearing up for your first
tion of clarity, confusion and curiosity,” reef dive, she has a few tips. First,
a Ya da v, 30 says the Chennai girl, who pursued a don’t touch anything. “Often, people
Yadav’s day job can give you se- master’s in marine biology from James stand on corals thinking they’re just
vy. For research, the marine Cook University in Australia. rocks, but they are animals that active-
t has snorkelled in Hawaii, scu- Now, with her PhD in Hawaii, Yadav ly feed during the day so their tissue is
in Australia and studied the is exploring how climate change is im- exposed.” Growing just a few centime-
reefs around Lakshadweep. pacting the relationship between corals tres a year, these magnificent inverte-
Her love for the ocean began at age and reef fish. This fieldwork has led her brates are damaged by anchors, while
19, when she went for her first dive off to dive in Australia, Lakshadweep, Mal- bad tourist practices impact them too.
the Andaman and Nicobar Islands with dives, Hawaii and the Palmyra Atoll in “Take your waste back with you,” she
her family. With stingrays casually the Pacific. “The more I studied coral says. “There’s nothing quite so heart-
cruising past, and orange crabs and col- reefs, the more curious I became. They breaking as finding a place littered
ourful fish congregating around, her are an endlessly fascinating and com- with plastic and human trash.”
first reaction was befuddlement: “But I plex ecosystem.”
Aerohawk is
based in Manali
R AC E R , rything is loose, raw, but
Ae roh a w k, 2 2 you still have some ele-
entures of Shiven Aerohawk ments in your control and
e the lie to the dubious stereo- that’s an amazing feeling.”
an overworked Indian engi- Currently training full-
student slogging away in an time as a professional
underlit room, living off instant noo- MTB cross country athlete
dles. Today, he is a rising star in the for the American bicycle
Indian mountain bike racing scene— brand Cannondale, his
and perhaps the only one armed with a routine sees 17-18 hours
degree in mechanical engineering. of riding a week, mixed
The self-proclaimed Aerohawk fell with interval and endur-
for riding when he was studying at the ance riding. Stationed in
National Institute of Engineering in Manali, which offers the
Kurukshetra in Haryana. After gradu- perfect blend of altitude,
ating, he chose the saddle over a stable mountains and a conducive training at-
job. In 2015, he won the junior category mosphere, he is optimistic: “The future
in MTB Nationals, which gave him the looks bright with the Cycling Federa-
confidence to choose the life of an MTB tion of India putting more focus than Ride across Lahaul and Spiti valley,
racer. “I love the adrenaline rush that ever towards MTB and developing the which offers unparalleled landscapes
it gives me,” he says. “On the trail, eve- sport,” he says. > and many raw Himalayan trails.
Fukuoka is the
birthplace of
Tonkotsu ramen
Fukuoka’s Ohori
Park is built around
a pond at its center
16
D E R T O U R I S M
TRY UN
the tourist-packed destin
ations in favour
This year, skip e are three alternatives
of a low -key gem. Her
Seoraksan National
Park is a UNESCO-
biosphere reserve
Andong jjimdak
Lasrado, co-founder
of modelling agency raphy, the Korean landscape changes
Feat. Artists, at from its 21st-century skyscrapers to a
Hahoe Folk Village
land of mountains, beaches and rolling
countryside. On my last trip to Korea,
Korea is the mecca of pop I decided to head to Gangneung, where
is small nation has upended Gyeongpo beach exposes you to a beau-
look at skincare, food, fash- tiful stretch of white sand and the ar-
ms. For me, it’s my annual ea’s famous soft tofu stew, called soon-
ation. If you’ve witnessed dubu. An hour’s drive away is
of Seoul’s K-beauty-kitted Seoraksan National Park, a UNESCO sweet, soy-braised chicken with sweet
emporiums and tried to beat the balmy biosphere reserve, where a walk potato noodles). Nearby is Hahoe Folk
nights with a side of cold, spicy noodles through the woods brings you to magi- Village, a 16th-century village and UN-
in the port town of Busan, know that a cal waterfalls. ESCO World Heritage Site from the
perfect toe-dip into this culture lies Off-the-book travellers will also love Joseon dynasty, which offers a peek
outside the cosmopolitan. Andong, which promises authentic into how Koreans used to live.
Rich in culture, tradition and geog- soju and Andong-style jjimdak (a —As told to Rujuta Vaidya
17
raving about the great migration
A LK O N
TAKE A WD SIDE
in Tanzania. Your cousin just
g five in Kruger. Your aunt’s
18
M A KE
F O R
TIME URE
LEIS
B iness turn into
Yakshi (1984)
by Mrinalini
Mukherjee
s
Can bu lmas Khateeb
A N EW YORK
leisure? up art-fuelled
rounds across three SEE: Business is always booming in the Big
s
itinerarie hubs to make
Apple. If you have a few hours to spare,
visit the Museum of Modern Art’s newly
business ying more fun expanded campus. With 30 per cent more
t fl
frequen
space, there is a whole lot of public art
to consume. Don’t miss the site-specific
commission by Yoko Ono called Peace Is
Power (2019). As you stare at sky blue panels
buy
Maison Assouline that call for peace in an extremely insular
is a storehouse of
coffee-table books Must world, the work invokes the message from
‘Imagine’, John Lennon’s bestselling single.
EAT: Unwind at Bar SixtyFive. Situated
on the 65th floor of the Rainbow Room at
Rockefeller Plaza, enjoy a stunning view of
‘Animal Le NYC while you sip on cocktails curated by the
Squarette’ bag, world’s top mixologists.
If I Fell, 27,600 STAY: The Surrey is an art deco wonderland,
with a private rooftop garden and a collection
of works by the likes of American artists
Chuck Close, Richard Serra and Jenny Holzer.
uy
Goodman Gallery
st b
DUBA I Mu
SEE: As a shoppers’ paradise and often
visited business destination, it is easy
to get lost in one of Dubai’s massive ‘The Chilluxe’
malls. Next time you’re here, take a day nubuck bag,
out to visit the neighbouring emirate of Halm, 1,50,000
Sharjah, a 30-minute drive away, where
the ongoing Sharjah Architecture
Triennial (on till February 8, 2020) is
buy
attracting a bevy of architects, artists,
activists and anthropologists. Curated
by Adrian Lahoud, dean of the School Must ‘Aqua/Oak XS
of Architecture at the Royal College Johnny’ bag,
of Art, London, the showcase engages Danse Lente,
with topics like architecture, urbanism 26,000
and climate change.
EAT: Unwind at the café at Maison LON D O
Assouline. The concept store at Dubai
Mall has an impressive collection SEE: Bringing a piece of South Africa to London is the newly opened Goodman
of coffee-table tomes in a spot Gallery on Mayfair’s Cork Street. A 5,730sqft space, the UK outpost of the iconic
overlooking the mall’s famous fountains. Johannesburg gallery is rich in SA’s contemporary art as well as other international
STAY: Emirates Palace is a palatial names. A gallery with a social purpose, it plans to donate some space, free of
property straight out of Arabian Nights. charge, to other dealers for six weeks every year.
It will serve as a good base for the EAT: Book your spot at Davies and Brook, the new fine dining restaurant and
ongoing triennial. cocktail lounge at Claridge’s, set up by Chef Daniel Humm of Eleven Madison
Park, which was voted #1 in the world by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2017.
STAY: The Dixon, on Tooley Street, is a new design hotel that opened this year
and is a part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection. >
19
rental stalwart Airbnb and biotech firm
23andMe is upping the ante by urging
EMBARK ON
explorers to find themselves, literally,
through heritage-based trips. Accord-
GENOMIC JOURNEY
ing to a recent Airbnb survey, most mil-
lennials would readily ditch tours to
western Europe in favour of local ad-
Marrying ancestry with advent
ure, th e rise ventures that acquaint them with their
of DNA-mapped wanderings roots. “The new-age traveller is search-
is pickin
across the world, finds Aarti V g up ing for unique, holistic travel experi-
irani ences,” says Amanpreet Bajaj, country
manager, Airbnb India. “What’s inter-
esting is travellers’ curiosity to learn
about their family origins and be more
in sync with their heritage.”
The ancestral adventure kick-starts
with an at-home DNA test. The results,
which arrive within five weeks, are
paired with a slew of Airbnb homes and
experiences. Abroad, these curated
picks have included gems, like a trullo
(a traditional Apulian hut) in Italy or a
101 on ancient dyeing techniques in
Mexico City. In India, they might mani-
fest via a terracotta villa in Kerala or a
workshop on hand-block printing in
Jaipur. Ultimately, your ultra-custom-
ised agenda will be just like your genetic
code: truly inimitable.
20
VISIT FOR
YO U R GRAM
Center Of
rne’s Journey To The ographer
ot
th first introduced ph r-capped
ie
Kushwah to the glac most chase
W hile
, Snæfellsjökull. he trained
d,
ora borealis in Icelan ral wonders:
towards its other natu ue and its
acier tong
the Svínafellsjökull gl iling hotspot that is
ob
ice caves, the snowm and the Skógafoss
VIKRAM KUSHWAH; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
r,
Sólheimajökull glacie erfalls. “Iceland, with
os s w at
and Seljalandsf
ack soil and basalt
its vast lava fields, bl
12,194 others ter springs ex ploding from beneat
h the
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l hot wa
s surreal to be on the
Blue co ys. ■
” he sa
photographer’s eye,
ram kushwa h In Ice the ey e ca n see. It’
vik far as .
a fields stretching as th geothermal activity
earth, and volcanic lav tural hot spring so energetic and alive wi
e na
Lagoon spa, a massiv
ring
hy #iceland #hotsp
#travel #photograp
ents
view all 1000 comm
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DIARY
Celebrate December with the best in luxury and fashion
ACCESSORISING
DONE RIGHT
Get ready to add an array of chic accessories to your Christmas
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com) Christopher Kane: London 0044-20-74933111 (www. (www.malonesouliers.com) (www.net-a-porter.com) Marco De Vincenzo:
christopherkane.com) (www.farfetch.com) Clarks: Phoenix Marketcity, Selfridges, London 0044-08-00123400 (www.marcodevincenzo.com)
Mumbai 18001024504, Delhi 011-43755381 (www.clarks.in) Coach 1941: Marks & Spencer: Mumbai 022-40282703, Delhi 011-45795449, Bengaluru
Palladium, Mumbai 022-49731460, DLF Emporio, Delhi 011-49270626 080-22086525 (www.marksandspencer.com) Michael Kors: Mumbai 022-
(www.world.coach.com) Cos: London 0044-20-34267530, Paris 0033-1- 28892180, Delhi 011-42111945, Bengaluru 080-22682028 (www.michaelkors.
72257690 (www.cosstores.com) Cult Gaia: (www.cultgaia.com) (www.net- com) Moschino: London 0044-20-73180500, Paris 0033-1-42651345 (www.
a-porter.com) (www.farfetch.com) David Koma: (www.davidkoma.com) moschino.com) Myla: London 0044-020-38835630 (www.myla.com) (www.
(www.net-a-porter.com) (www.farfetch.com) Dhruv Kapoor: Ensemble, net-a-porter.com) Nanushka: New York 001-929-4714805 (www.nanushka.
Advani channeled
her inner flamenco
dancer with
some help from
movement coach
Paras Sharma.
On the playlist:
‘Señorita’ by
Shawn Mendes and
Camila Cabello.
Sometimes, it
does takes a
village! A look at
the team behind
the cover shoot.
SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Photographer
Tarun Vishwa
in action.