E S 2015 09

M a n At H i s B est S E P T E M B E R 20 1 5
esquiresingapore.com
THE FALL FASHION ISSUE

ALL ABOUT STYLE AND SUBSTANCE
PRISCILLA
SHUNMUGAM
IS A WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER WE LOVE
IS THE MAN BACKSTAGE:

THE UNLUCKIEST MAN IN HOLLYWOOD AN ALL
TALKS ABOUT HOW HE WENT FROM
A STRUGGLING BARMAN TO A
ACCESS PASS
GO BEHIND THE SCENES OF
SUPERMAN AND A MAN FROM UNCLE A FASHION SHOW
Plus
HEDI SLIMANE
JOHN RAY
TOMMY HILFIGER
GIORGIO ARMANI
JAMES FERRAGAMO
RICHARD NICOLL
AND A GUY NAMED BOEY
And
LIFE CYCLE OF A TREND
POVERTY AND STYLE IN CONGO
STAY IN FASHION CITIES
BASEL REPORT
ISSN 2301-3397 SGD8.00
M PA S I N D U S T RY AWA R D S 2 0 1 5 • C OV E R O F T H E Y E A R • M E N ’S M E D I A O F T H E Y E A R • L ifestyle / E ntertainment M edia of the Y ear

Paragon - Takashimaya Department Store +65 6738 3323
HUGO BOSS SOUTH EAST ASIA PTE.LTD. Phone +65 6735 0233
HUGOBOSS.COM
THE LEGEND AMONG ICONS.
Por tugieser Perpetual Calendar. since. The movement itself is visible through a transparent sapphire
Ref. 5034: Real icons have a special story to tell. And what was glass back cover that provides an unimpeded view of the IWC-
true of the great Portuguese seafarers also applies to IWC’s own manufactured 52000 calibre’s impressive precision. The watch’s
Portugieser. After all, the history of its genesis bears the stamp of complexity is eloquently expressed by the perpetual calendar,
courageous innovation and watchmaking expertise at its best. whose functions can all be adjusted simply by turning the crown.
Seventy-five years ago, two Portuguese businessmen approached And just as observing the star-studded heavens can guide a ship
IWC requesting a wristwatch with the precision of a marine safely to harbour, a glance at the perpetual calendar and the moon
chronometer. In response, IWC’s watchmakers took the phase display navigate the wearer safely through the complexities
unprecedented step of housing a hunter pocket watch movement of time. This, in a nutshell, is how 75 years of watchmaking history
in a wristwatch case. In so doing, they founded a watch family became an icon of haute horlogerie. And how, thanks to its unique
whose timeless elegance, sophisticated technology and blend of perfection and timeless elegance, it has become a legend
unmatched complexity have been a source of wonderment ever in its own time. iwc. engineered for men.
iwc SchaffhauSen BoutiqueS: Shanghai i Beijing i hong Kong i macau i Singapore i taiwan i pariS i new YorK i geneva i Zurich
iwc.com
contents
SE P TE M B E R 20 1 5, vo lu m e 4, n o. 37
T H E FA L L FAS H I O N I SSU E
74
What I’ve learned:
James Ferragamo
Taking a break from walking,
the son of a show
designer speaks.
Interview by Janie Cai
76
What I’ve learned:
Daniel Boey
Find out if he’s as difficult as
they say (hint: he’s not but
read on anyway)
Interview by Lestari Hairul
80
The unluckiest man in
Hollywood
And Henry Cavill deserves
his winning streak.
Words by Piers Manning
88 96
A woman we love: Life cycle of a trend
Priscilla Shunmugam The circle of fashion
The trials and joy of life is cyclical.
the designer. Words by Joshua David Stein
Words by Lestari Hairul
100
The steward
John Ray, the Colony Club
and dunhill.
Words by Janie Cai
224
Esquire 10: What lies beneath?
Layers beneath layers beneath
more layers.
Continue on page 28
On the cover: Henry Cavill by Warner Bros
26 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 GETTY

contents
Continued from page 26
115
Manual
Before building a home gym—
Work whenever—Work when
you’re at work—Homemade
protein shakes; ew, gross, we’re
not talking about that—Workout
recovery tips—How to tennis—
Being aware of situational
awareness—Is your house a fire
trap?—How to trench—What the
army gave us—What to have and
to lose in your pockets.
124
Style: Fashion spread
Behind the curtain.
150
Style: Designer profile
Richard Nicoll, the evolver.
151
Style: How to wear
Bally heavy-duty jacket.
166
Style: Perpetual style
The curator of Boggi.
168
Tommy Hilfiger goes long.
174
Back to basics.
Continue on page 30

contents
Continued from page 28
176
Style: Handbook
The jet set.
177 190
Style: Grooming Watches: Basel report
Fill ‘em up. Even more wonders.
179 208
Style: Grooming Drinks: Opener
No sweat. Rabbit Hole.
164 212
Watches: Perpetual motion Drinks: Perpetual taste
Asia: Watch this space. Going, going, gone.
166 216
Watches: Perpetual motion Machines: Opener
Last frontier. The sound of silence.
218
Machines: Apparatus
Made of sterner stuff.
220
Machines: Automotive
Fast and curious.
236
Travel: Wanderlust
Staying in fashion.
238
Travel: Perpetual escape
Into the lands of giants.
249
Travel: Last resort
Park Hyatt Sanya Sunny Bay
Resort, Hainan Island, China.
Continue on page 32

contents
48
Funny joke from a beautiful
woman
As told by Alexandria Yeo.
50
MAHB: Film
Race in movies.
52
MAHB: Music
Japan rocks!
54
MAHB: Humour
Children are our future.
56
MAHB: Food
Cooks that eat together...
58
MAHB: Drinks
Fairplay drinks.
60
MAHB: Sex
Rise of the pansexuals!
62
MAHB: Health
What’s the story crowning glory?
66
MAHB: Sport
Fair play in games.
68
Continued from page 30 MAHB: Books
SG50-themed books.
34 78
This way in A thousand words
What you can expect and more. By Bill Lee.
44 250
The vocabulary This way out
Learn these words before Merkin for men.
l33tspeak takes over.
46
MAHB: Agenda
Fill your time courtesy of our
recommendations.

t h i s way i n
E SQUIR E UNI V E RS E
Back then, fashion constituted the raiment on naked ape bodies. Clothing was a little blah until
Charles Frederick Worth came along to change up the scene. The English designer got his start in
Paris during the mid-1800s with innovative changes to the fashion industry. He used live models to
promote his garments, sewed his own name onto his clothes, redesigned the silhouette of dresses
(Worth got rid of the crinoline [a bell-shaped skirt] and made hemlines shorter) and introduced the
concept of dress, design and fabric being made in one location. Worth is considered the father of
haute couture and the fabric of today’s fashion owes him a great debt.
Esquire on the web
V I D EO
Best way to view Hussein Chalayan’s "Afterwords", where furniture
transforms into outfits.
A D D M OR E C LOUT TO YOUR AC C OUNT

Cultivate a network of like-minded friends that you can exploit in
"directing" your photoshoot.
TW E E T at US
Are 140 characters enough to contain the shade thrown by models
and fashion designers? Answer: yes, and it can eclipse the sun.
W E BSIT E
Scott Schuman of The Sartorialist reinvented fashion photography
for the blog format. But if you can’t wait around to be featured on a
street style blog, you can opt for a more DIY approach, thanks to…
... INSTAG R A M
Where selfies are born, linger and die. That said, go check out our
Fashion Director’s: @janiecai
esquiresingapore.com facebook.com/esquiresg twitter.com/esquiresg instagram.com/esquiresg youtube.com/EsquireSingapore
34 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015

t h i s way i n
E d i to r i a l P ro d uct i o n m a n agemen t E S Q U IR E
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E DITIO N S
Editor-in-chief Art Director Group CEO
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Escobar S
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Esquire Singapore is available on
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first and business class cabins. C O N TRI B U TI N G Fashion/Entertainment Director
P H OTO G RA P H E RS & Kristen Ingersoll
ILLUSTRATORS
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Published by
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L I F E I S A B O U T M O M E N T S
C E L E B R AT I N G E L E G A N C E S I N C E 1 8 3 0
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CORTINA WATCH Ion / Raffles City DICKSON WATCH & JEWELLERY Knightsbridge
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t h i s way i n
5 h y p e r- r e a l i st i c e r r at um
s cu l p t u r e s
W hat’s o n o u r 1. Ron Mueck’s “Still Life Chicken”

Tw e e t e r f e e d Chicken thighs for your viewing pleasure. Finally
something that’s not human, eh?
Biro
@birocompany 2. Ron Mueck’s “Wild Man”
Photo: nice writeup and Luckily for the Wild Man, everything about him We wrongly stated in last
illustration with love from is upsized. Too bad none of it is functional. month’s write-up about comic
Esquire mag. Thank you.
book creator, Sonny Liew, that
3. Sam Jinks’ fox-head nudes the NAC grant was withdrawn
Munah and Hirzi
What does the fox say? “I’M FREEZING”. Maybe. midway through the creation
@MunahAndHirzi
of The Art of Charlie Chan
Last that I checked, I was on
4. Duane Hanson’s “Tourists” Hock Chye when, in fact, it
@esquiresg. Girl hashtag Kau
If you’re gonna be an actual tourist visiting was withdrawn after the book
mana? Girl hashtag kau takde?
Hanson’s exhibition, please don’t look like one. was published and placed
Kau ada?
Unless you want people to take selfies with you. on bookshelves. It was also
inferred in the article that Lim
Unlisted Collections
Chin Siong was detained in
@UnlistedC 5. Marc Quinn’s “Giant Baby” @ Gardens by Operation Spectrum. It was
Quotable quotes the Bay actually Operation Coldstore.
Do we have a fetish for babies that we aren’t We apologise for the errors.
aware of?
Weirded out by this? Hopefully, this story won’t,

on page 122.
5 t h i n gs t hat
yo u wo n’ t
e x p ect to s e e
bac kstag e
5 s ec r e t s o c i e t i e s/c lub s t hat us e d to e x i st
during a
fas h i o n s h ow
1. Business cards
No time for networking.
Clue: unruly hair.
2. Diet Coke
Why can’t everyone just
stick to regular fat coke?
c e n s o rs h i p
g lossa ry g u i d e 3. E-cigarettes
We were warned for When you’re a model and
trying to be healthy, this
using adult language in a 1. The Order of the Skull and common passwords. armed guards, the police and
is the way to go. (Not
magazine meant for adults. Bones (above) Status: Sticking around? fighter jets patrolling the skies
recommended by the
To ensure the harmony in the Who: Accused of possessing There’s one right by the stamp overhead?
Health Promotion Board)
mindset of non-adults, we the stolen skull of Geronimo, museum! Status: Thriving on paranoia.
have utilised colour bars. Skull and Bones was founded
4. Chessboards
at Yale University. To think that 3. The Hashshashin 5. The Colony Room
Contrary to popular
a group of highly intellectual Who: One wouldn’t have Who: Basically every member
belief, models are
individuals had a skull fetish… wanted to be on their bad side. of this club loved getting high
Mildly offensive words, could actually pretty (and)
well, perhaps, they should’ve They left notes saying, “You on alcohol and ideas. If you
intelligent.
pertain to certain bodily considered being a boy band. are in our grip”, along with a think that you make the cut,
functions or unwholesome Status: Still craving heads. Hashshashin dagger on the don’t. Its doors closed forever
5. Books
attributes. pillows of their enemies. in 2008.
Sorry to disappoint, but
2. Freemasonry Status: Evolved into what we Status: Terminated—too drunk
you probably already
Who: The party animals of now know as Tooth Fairies. to function.
know that boobs are
Offensive words. The sort Freemasonry are called the
gonna be everywhere.
Shriners and they have a thing 4. The Bilderberg Group Aside from drinks, the Colony
uttered among friends and
for tiny hats and small cars. Who: No one really knows what Room also serves as an
coffee shop uncles. Above all else, Freemasonry is this group discusses during inspiration for this designer on
You might see all these
and more in this month’s
just a huge fraternity with “tu- meetings. What could possibly page 116.
fashion spread, on page
bal-cain” as one of their more leak out when you have
Naughty words. Very 140. No boobs though.
naughty words.
P r act i ca l i t y o f t h e ch eo n gsam
1. Walking 2. Feasting 3. Fighting 4. Mingling 5. Weight control

If you were wondering Slits for (your) eyes. You’ll get Chun-Li. Have you seen how But we’re actually thinking of How? Go figure. But this is
what the slits are for, this to enjoy looking at the different high she can kick? ’Nuff said. another word starting with an serious business.
must be it. types of legs. “F”. Those slits call for easy
access... for flipping. The
backwards and forwards flip. She makes them for a living.
Get yer minds out of the gutter. Check her out on page 88.

t h i s way i n
T i m e l i n e o f m e n’s s h o e s L a b e ls w i t h b i r d m as c ots
C o l l ect i o n
of terrible
1. Staple to u p e e s a n d
1990s to 2000s w i gs
That’s a minimalist pigeon
Everything and anything
representing a not-so-
New Balance to Grey by minimalist label. 1. Donald Trump
Ortenhill and everything else in
USD812,000 for a
between.
hairpiece made out of the
hair of the Brown Spider
Monkey. But here’s the
1980s trump card: pubic hair
Brogues, oxfords and loafers 2. Smirnoff from a water buffalo.
(all over again) Because, obviously, you’d be
more interested to know why
Seems like people finally 2. Twins from The Matrix
there are crowns on birds,
decided to be taken seriously Reloaded (2003)
rather than pay attention to
again. Obviously, the chalky
the flavour of your vodka.
make-up wasn’t enough.
They just had to have
1970s those white dreadlocks
Platform shoes as well.
The age of glam rock and the 3. Emporio Armani
disco scene called for over-the- 3. Romulus of The
The secret to Giorgio’s Caveman’s Valentine
top platforms. Anything goes, worldwide success? His
hippies. (2001)
soaring bird. Guess we could all look
past those dreadlocks
since it’s Samuel L
1960s Jackson. Why so hair-rible
Booties though?
Out with the conservative, in
with the radical. Ankle boots 4. Nestlé
4. John Travolta
with a square Cuban heel were Contrary to popular
Why doesn't he get good
the footwear of choice. And the belief, they don’t
hair like he did with
colours? They had it all. only make Milo. And
Nicholas Cage's face in
Nestum.
Face/Off- oh.
1950s
Tennis shoes 5. Johnny Blaze of
Slipping into a pair of black or Ghost Rider
white Converse tennis shoes Make it green and he
was the way to go. No one would have bird’s nest
5. Jack Wills fern riding with him
really cared about looking
Look who started the no- through a fiery blaze.
conservative.
arms-through-coats trend.
We think we’ve got the

1920s to 1940s best ones; have a look at
Brogues and oxfords Here’s the Jack Wills guy and no, there are sadly no birds to speak ours on page 274.
The bros began lacing up their of on page 174.
brogues and oxfords. Owning
them meant you were cool.
5 c o n t rov e rs i a l fas h i o n a ds
1910s
Pumps and sneakers
1. Tom Ford for Men
Spats were in the spotlight and Yes, of course, it’s only the bottle
well… they looked pretty damn that’s shoved right in our faces. Thank
good for formal dress. Along God, it looks like whisky.
came Keds in 1917 and stole all
the attention. 2. D&G 2007 ad
More than anything else, we’re
1700s interested to know if that guy at
Durable heels the top right-hand corner is really
Channing Tatum.
The shoes were medium-
heeled, but men sure 3. Gucci 2004 campaign (featuring
found other ways to get Carmen Cass)
high. “A-courting” and It might have been infamously
“a-frolicking” or “a-drinking” nicknamed “Pubic Enemy”, but one
weren’t uncommon. thing’s for sure: spotting the G is easy.
1600s 4. Sisley: Sisley Goes Skiing (2007)

Boots with red soles and heels They probably just found another
Thanks to Charles I, boots way to clean up after their own mess.
became fashionable. But Really quite powderful.
of course, with such a
loyal following, everyone 5. Tommy Hilfiger’s first ad
later hopped on the heels campaign in 1985 (left)
bandwagon. Seems like he knew how bright his
future was gonna be. That explains
the iconic sunglasses.
Shoes, shoes, shoes; OMG
shoes. Walk over to page 74. For more on Mr Hilfiger, go to page 192.

t h i s way i n
e d i to r’s l e t t e r
Zul Andra, Editor-in-chief
I wo u l d n’ t c o n s i d e r m ys e l f a m a n
o f fas h i o n . My broadest understanding of
the industry is that it offers a wealth of materi-
als for satire writers and human rights activists.
My knowledge of fashion is limited to what my
curiosity permits: fashion shows, store openings,
clicking by Fashion TV between channels, a GIF
of Tyra Banks screaming at models, et al. I’ve also
met fashion-is-my-passion types who’d only con-
verse in the language of Spring/Summer and Au-
tumn/Winter. I find the posture of fashion types
oddly sketchy. There are fashion bloggers who’d
die for a place in the front row. And then there
are the PR practitioners who wish they would.
(My appreciation for a strong scotch has re- Hairul, on the other hand (from page 88), caught
mained unchanged.) But I’ve always wondered: up with one of Singapore's finest womenswear
is there some sort of satorial promised land that designer, Priscilla Shunmugam, and discussed
fashion people are desperate to reach? Although problems the local fashion industry have faced
I do appreciate the kind of fashion that is driven with passion. This issue is as detailed and mature
by innovation; but how much is too much? And as a good suit. Thread through.
where is the embodiment of style in all of this? Throughout the issue, Fashion Director Janie
What is it all for? Cai reveals the spectrum of style and substance—
When I approached Warner Bros for images all vicariously through James Ferragamo carry-
of this month’s cover man, Henry Cavill (who ing the family’s name, Creative Director John
stars in The Man from UNCLE; story from page Ray retaining dunhill’s rich heritage and, specifi-
80), they asked if I wanted him in a costume or cally in this order, Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent.
out of it. Costume? It’s a three-piece suit, guys. In our 22-page photo shoot, we go behind the
What Superman wears is a costume. What he scenes of a fashion show and uncover the styles
wears out of that costume is an attribution of hidden in plain sight. And there’s more on Rich-
style (not the underwear.) However, they weren’t ard Nicoll, Giorgio Armani, Tommy Hilfiger and
entirely wrong—when does an archaic article of Daniel Boey. That’s a lot of style/fashion/cos-
clothing go out of style and turn into an avouch- tume stuff. If you don’t put down this issue with
ment of a costume? Joshua David Stein attempts a better understanding of what each of them
to answer this with nothing but a pocket square, means to you, there’s always scotch to fall back
as source material, and a microscopic look into on (or tequila and mezcal on page 212). And then,
trends as they come and go. (See page 96.) Lestari put on what suits you the best.
c o n t r i b u to rs o f t h e m o n t h
Elvina Farkas Angeline Tan Jeri Chua Vinita Ramani Hector Mediavilla
Photographer Hairstylist Photographer Writer Photographer
Aussie-born Elvina Farkas Known as the Hair-y A lover of bright colours Ramani's has published Beginning his photographic
is a Singaporean-based Godmother, Tan is also the and one of the fastest long- several nonfiction essays and career in 2002, Mediavilla
photographer, Creative Creative Director of FDP distance trail runners in short stories. A recipient of a aims to denounce injustices
Director and The Sims 4 Prestige Hair Care. You can Singapore. She isn’t black- National Arts Council grant, and understand the human
gaming addict. She's shot see her magic on page 124. and-white in real life; on page she is finishing her first novel. condition through the lens.
the Funny Joke on page 48. 124 her pictures Read her fiction piece on See his stuff on page 108.
have colours! page 106.

m a n a t h i s b e s t / M a HB
the
vo ca b u l a ry
Sesquipedalian terms and thematic ideas you will encounter
in the pages that follow. Great for conversation.
Metaphor: The act of covering up or even the censorship of unsavoury details concerning governments
or corporations.
Noun: A solution of cheap white paint or chalked lime that gives a good uniform basecoat before layers
of a chosen paint colour are applied.
Verb: To cast white actors in non-white film roles. Like spray tanning WASP-y blue-eyed actors and
making them wear brown contact lenses framed by kohl-lined eyes to magically make them Middle
Eastern. (See page 50)
Adjective: A descriptor for a person or a place of Noun: The fundamental qualities or principles of a thing.
disreputable, shady character. Basically anywhere (See page 56)
artists gather to drink. (See page 100) Adjective/Slang: The state of being stuck in the fundamentals,
French: Literal translation for cross-eyed. Poor cross- never graduating to anything requiring more sophisticated
eyed people; you will be louche even if you’re the brainpower or tastes. Like the fawning over pumpkin-spiced
saintliest of saints. Starbucks lattes.
Noun: A very small humanoid creature. “Scientists” of yore

presumed that human beings simply increased in size, Adjective: To describe a person who is extremely
appearing fully formed in the womb as microscopic humans. good at something. Like the ability to discern tequila
The truth is that we start out looking more like the alien and mezcal precisely. (See page 213)
parasites we truly are. (See page 106) Name: A hacking tool named after an American
Game weapon: A special mojo utilised by Witch Doctors in the snack of sickeningly sweet proportions that’s
game Diablo 3. Whatever that is. We’re not nerds. You must defined by its box accompaniment of a cheap toy.
have a character level of 29 to drop it, and increase a critical hit Interestingly, the earliest known hacking, in the form
chance of three to four percent and Sacrifice damage by 20 to of phreaking, was aided by a toy whistle in Cap’n
25 percent. Not that we know anything about that. Crunch cereal.
euphemism of the month
Noun: 1. A colloquial reference to a 50-year milestone, even though it should technically have the word
“golden” as a prefix. (See page 76)
2. A Christian and Jewish concept where sins are pardoned, debts forgiven, and slaves and prisoners freed every
50 years. All of the SG50 kerfuffle in the most ridiculous of ways leading up to the past month was a major reversal
of this concept.
Euphemism: The one that turned the Bear Jew of Inglourious Basterds into the Nazi-killing machine of fame: the
“Jew-Bully”. We kid. Really. We’re just kidding Mr M Mossad Agent Sir. Really.

MaHB / Agenda
this month
THINGS TO DO:
1) Make a list.
2) Learn how to perform the strikethrough function on a Word document.
3) Do the following in the month of September.
Abandon your inhabitations. Yes,

all day we’re familiar with the F1 race, but
here’s something off the beaten
track: cabaret. Introducing Boudoir
Noire, a new event concept that will
feature famed cabaret theatre, The
Box, and local burlesque dancer,
Sukki Singapora, whose routine will
involve bathing in a giant diamond
ring (that description alone got our
attention). Held on September 19
and 20 over at the Capitol Theatre
5 h o u rs Singapore, each performance will
be different. But most surprising of
Ham it up. Jules Verne may have had all is that the MDA approved this. We
his protagonists travel around the don’t know what will happen behind
world in 80 days, but did he make the closed doors of Boudoir Noire,
them stage Hamlet in EVERY COUNTRY but it promises to be memorable.
IN THE WORLD? That’s what Globe to Guess there’s only one way to find
Globe Hamlet hopes to accomplish. out... Tickets can be purchased
For its current tour, Globe to Globe at boudoirnoire.com, while table
will drop anchor in Singapore and reservations will be by invitation only.
tarry from September 8 to 12. Only five
performances of this Shakespearean
masterpiece will be staged at the 4 h o u rs
Capitol Theatre Singapore. More
details like ticketing info can be found
at sistic.com.sg Run the streets! The brand with the leaping
mountain lion (“OMG! Protect the face!”) returns
with another PUMA Night Run. This time, the
10km run will be along scenic Marina Barrage
and at the end of it, participants are entitled to
a lucky draw for a chance to win some attractive
prizes. (“OMG! It’s another wild cat attack!
Protect the genitalia!”) The race will flag off on
October 17, but sign up now, as registration
3 h o u rs closes on September 20. Head to puma-
nightrun.com.sg to do the necessary.
Watch this. Taiwanese director Hou Hsiao-Hsien’s

wuxia movie, The Assassin, has garnered much
praise. The period film, having nabbed Best
Director at the 68th Cannes Film Festival, stars Shu
Qi as the titular assassin who is forced to choose 2 h o u rs
between fulfilling her assassination contract and
betraying the order that assigned her the mission.
From what we have seen, the film looks like a slow
burn, but given its lush backdrops, it is a wuxia
movie that eschews the jump cuts for a more
contemplative observance.
1 hour
Laugh with a curmudgeon. Dylan Moran, who plays the acerbic

(though some of us feel it’s not much of an acting stretch)
Tickle the ivories, finger the strings. Quickly now, when you shopkeeper in the British sitcom Black Books, is also a stand-up
mention “Brazil”, what comes to mind? Churrasco? Fútbol? comedian in real life. With four televised comedy specials under
The Terry Gilliam classic? What about piano playing? Brazilian his belt, Moran is bringing Off the Hook to the National University
musicians Duo Bastos & Borges will headline the third annual of Singapore’s University Cultural Centre Hall. For one special
showing of PianoBotanica at the Singapore Botanic Gardens. evening on September 5 at 8pm, you’ll be tickled and charmed by
The Brazilian duo, comprising flutist João Bastos and pianist his witticism and made to believe that a malcontent can make you
Yara Borges, will regale the audience with Brazilian songs in the laugh. For ticketing and more information, go to sistic.com.sg
verdant surroundings. The event is free for all and happens on
September 6 at 6pm. For more info, check out pianobotanica.com
no time

MaHB / Funny* joke from a beautiful woman
A L E XA N D R I A Y EO
A S M A L L- C H E ST E D G I R L entered a lin-
gerie store to shop for a bra. The sales lady
looked at her and said, “Sorry, we can’t help
you.” She went to another lingerie outlet
and received the same answer. Finally, she
went to Watsons, pointed to her chest and
screamed, “Help me!” With one look, the as-
sistant said, I know just what you need,” and
passed her a tube of Oxy.
With Alexandria Yeo, what you see is what you get.
She is surprisingly frank about the fact she isn’t in
the pink of health. “My dog is massive,” Yeo says.
“One day, when I was walking him, he started to
run, so I had to run too, but I ended up spraining my
calf.” The 24-year-old admits that the svelteness of
her figure is down to good genes. This is not a boast.
It’s a matter of fact, but there’s only so much luck-
ing out in the genetic roulette can do for her. While
she knows she could have it easy as a model, Yeo
also knows that “it can’t be a career”. Since gradu-
ating from Yishun Junior College, she has worked
as a Production Coordinator for Zalora and is wait-
ing to enrol in RMIT, where she’ll take up a course
in business marketing, but it’s her optimism that
convinces us she’ll go far. When quizzed about her
dove tattoo, Yeo says it’s a family tradition. “My two
brothers have it. I have it. My sister, who is the old-
est and the brainiest, says no. Our youngest sibling
is still too young to have one. Oh, my mum doesn’t
have one either.” But it’s not a family tattoo if only
three of you have it, we argue. “One day, it will be.
I’m looking forward to that,” she says, before break-
ing into a guffaw. We’re inclined to believe her.
To hear the pretty awesome Alexandria Yeo tell

a different joke on video, scan the QR code or visit
*Esquire cannot guarantee that this joke will be

funny to everyone.
48 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 P h oto g rap h by E lv i n a Far k as/A n ue M a n ag eme n t. Sty l i n g by E u g e n e Lim.
Hair a n d M a k e- up by A l e x T usi n g YS L B eauty. assiste d by J er l i n To h.
P o lyami d e c oat by COS. S i l k bi k i n i by K.B lu.
Performance is
now available for
children’s parties.
MaHB / Film by Fin Carew
R ac e to t h e f i n i s h
Why is everyone obsessed with race (says the white person)?
H av e yo u e v e r been a straight, white west- W H ITE M EN gaporean, but that sounds like cultural separation
erner? I thoroughly recommend it. Besides get- CAN S P EA K to me. Singapore is identified by its combined
ting first pick in education, career and human In related news, a Tumblr cultures, but then why—when it comes to film—
rights, Hollywood freaking loves us. They love us site called Every Single are all the cultures standing in different corners
Word is showing how much
so much they’re injecting us into classic charac- face time a person of colour
of the room?
ters, as if to cure them of the unprofitable disease has on film. Dylan Marron, Movies have a lot of influence over behaviour.
of not being written white. who runs the site, edits When 16 Candles came out, the Korean charac-
out the lines spoken by a
The trailer for Pan came out recently, and Caucasian to reveal… well, ter Long Duk Dong created such a negative ste-
criticism began when Tiger Lily was cast as über- just how white mainstream reotype people shouted his name at Asians in the
movies are.
white actor, Rooney Mara. Tiger Lily is a Native street. In Singapore, the cultural divide in Indi-
American, as shown in the 1907 picture of her by We often get carried away an/Chinese/Malay mainstream cinema (and dis-
Oliver Hereford. Amazingly, Pan has managed to by the worlds presented in proportionate funding) could propagate the idea
the movies, but Every Single
be more culturally insensitive than the 1953 Peter Word points out that even that one culture is the alpha Singaporean.
Pan by Disney. in a world, where there is Wouldn’t it be great if all the cultures came
a tapestry of races, not
Native Americans aren’t getting the respect everyone will have his or her
together in one film? Where the true identity of
they deserve in Hollywood. In April, several in- time on the stage. Singapore could be represented accurately? I
digenous actors walked out of an Adam Sandler guess they’d all have to speak English, though.
everysinglewordspoken.
comedy/Western production over the offensive tumblr.com We’d better standardise the accents, too. Tell you
portrayal of “Indians”. The Ridiculous Six has Na- what; let’s just use white actors to play all the
tive American characters named Beaver’s Breath Singaporean parts. Problem solved!
and No Bra. You could argue that it’s a parody,
but assuming that level of sophistication from an
Adam Sandler movie is like assuming a durian can
be swallowed whole through the urethra.
Hollywood’s racial expectations have even be-
come their establishing character technique. In
animated movies, when you don’t have human
characters, the only way you can assure charac-
ters are interpreted as socio-economically disad-
vantaged is to give them a Spanish accent (Happy
Feet).
Singapore has an odd approach to racial sensi-
tivity. A while ago, I mentioned that Sex.Violence.
FamilyValues was banned for having a racist char-
acter in one scene. Compare this to the fact that
Django Unchained came out that same year. I had
previously assumed “racial remarks” were just a
cover because the censors didn’t like the sexual
content. But then Rubbers happened.
I never saw Rubbers because it looked ,
but the talent, while impressive, was almost en-
tirely Chinese. So now we’re left with the situa-
tion that either a local film is banned for racism
while a Hollywood film is not, or a multicultural
local film is banned for sexual content while a
Chinese Singaporean film is not.
I asked a friend why Chinese Singaporean ac-
tors almost always lead Singapore films. I was
told it’s because the target market is Chinese Sin-
50 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 getty

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One of the many
abandoned plotlines
from WWE.
like posturing, BiSH looked and moved like any

professional J-pop group, except that they rocked
out to a hybrid of metal, punk, rock and pop. The
audience interlocked arms as the entire mosh pit
bounced in unison during a song’s uplifting, po-
go-friendly chorus before dissolving into a circle
pit of bodyslamming over the doom-ish growl of
a metal verse. It all came to an abrupt standstill,
with light sticks and hands in the air to mark a
gentle pop breakdown, before reverting to an an-
ything-goes thrash-punk finale.
Headliner Summer of Demon wasn’t a Nor-
wegian black metal act, but a Japanese theatri-
cal idol group comprising of five members who
resembled: A) a Lolita; B) a female luchador; C)
Kamen Rider’s malnourished cousin; D) an anime
greaser; and E) a Japanese Andre the Giant. If
High-5 ingested a cocktail of acid and Adderall
and decided to perform a hybrid of anime theme
songs in a pastiche of punk, metal and rap, you’d
get something close to Summer of Demon.
As the group’s members launched themselves
into the audience, a villainous masked wrestler
emerged from the crowd to challenge the band. A
full-on wrestling match commenced, as the group
sang a song that encouraged Japanese Andre the
Giant to kick the villain’s derriere. Blows were ex-
changed on stage, spilling over into the audience
MaHB / Music by Jonathan Fong
itself, who howled in delight. A finishing move
Sug o i n e h ! was applied and the victorious Summer of Demon
rocked out in victory.
Discovering the amazing world of alternative Japanese idols. Sure, purists will decry the debasement of
their beloved musical genres and dismiss alterna-
W h i l e h o l i day i n g i n To k yo th i s J u ly, I tive idols as an awful joke. But having witnessed
found myself in Marz, a live house in the middle the pure entertainment value of a live perfor-
of bustling Shinjuku. Any music venue that re- mance and seen the joy of the fans, I say let the
quires you to descend two flights of stairs below alternative idols rock on. After all, who could
street level automatically scores edgy and cool hate the idea of incorporating wrestling into a
points and Marz is (literally) that type of under- rock gig? Anyone who disagrees should be put in
ground club. Parting with JPY3,500 at the door, I a submission hold till they tap out.
had no idea the Summer of Demon: 10 Times An-
niversary Event was about to blow my mind.
I T’S A R E D H OT A M E R I CAN
Manoeuvring past the smoky bar, I peered
SU M M E R SOUN DT R AC K!
down from the balcony at a lively mosh pit bounc-
ing up and down against each other. Pretty stand-
ard behaviour for any punk rock show across the Watch Wet Hot American Summer: First Day at Camp
globe, except that a band wasn’t playing on stage. (stream it on Netflix!) and you’ll notice the whole ‘80s
vibe—the clothing, the hairstyles, the colour saturation—
There wasn’t even a single instrument. never mind that the actors, well into adulthood, are play-
The mass of flailing hands, legs and bodies ing adolescents, and a prequel of the original Wet Hot, as
was directed towards BiSH (an abbreviation of an absurdist bent. But it’s the music that really sets the
tone of the series.
Brand-new Idol ), an alternative idol group
that consisted of four girls dressed like Harajuku The composer is Craig Wedrenwho, for the Wet Hot se-
teenagers. While Japanese pop idols are usually ries, decided to create original music inspired by “artists
like Cheap Trick and Pat Benatar”.
young, manufactured stars that look ridiculously
kawaii and sing cutesy songs, “alternative” idols Wedren says they might release the series soundtrack,
but for now, you can relive the ’80s listen to it over o
nhis
infuse the standard cutesy elements with harder, Soundcloud page: soundcloud.com/craigwedren
darker music genres.
With slick, choreographed routines and doll-

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TAX FREE
MaHB / Humour by Jinx Yeo
H ow to ru i n o u r f u t u r e
Or why your kid shouldn’t be just another brick in the wall.
C h i l d r e n a r e o u r f u t u r e . They have the V i sua l Ru l e : held to avoid offending their mascot Ronald)”. Of
potential to create a brighter tomorrow, instead of fac e pa i n t course, there’s a disproportionate, erm, proportion
keeping us in our comfort zone of a dysfunctional of the world’s richest and most successful people
but familiar world. That’s why we adults must con- who are college dropouts, such at Bill Gates and
dition children to think like us, instead of the crea- Mark Zuckerberg. But we don’t want our kids to
tive geniuses that they are. As Einstein said, “We create their own paths like those entrepreneurs. So
cannot solve our problems with the same level of they must be taught to tie their self-worth to fancy
thinking that created them.” So God forbid we al- pieces of paper from ivory tower institutions. Be-
low children to think outside our narrow boxes! a lways sides, those college degrees are useful. For exam-
They could end up solving the world’s problems, ple, while a school dropout might end up working
and we can’t have that, because how would we as a waiter, a liberal arts degree would qualify them
adults justify our own existence (and our obses- for a more impressive job title like “barista”.
sion with controlling our kids)? And schooling must always be emphasised,
So when children ask profound questions like, because it’s such an important part of limiting a
“Where do I come from?”, we must avoid telling child’s potential. As adults, we understand the
them the truth. Instead, make up some irrelevant sometimes truth behind sayings like, “It’s not what you know,
story about storks. Of course, eventually they will it’s who you know”. That’s why we send children
find out—but we must throw them off the scent for to schools where they’re taught to memorise and
as long as we can. regurgitate knowledge they’ll never use (except in
Unlike adults, children don’t have problems exams), instead of developing their people skills.
handling the truth. They’re always pointing out Formal schooling can make children lose inter-
the elephant in the room, like how a certain auntie est in any subject. Children start out with unbri-
has gained weight, or how that passenger on the never dled curiosity about the world—every child is a po-
bus smells funny. That’s why we must punish chil- tential scholar of science, geography, economics,
dren for saying such things. If we allow them to etc. But by the time they leave school, they want
call out reality (instead of telling comforting lies), nothing more to do with those subjects—their in-
where will our next generation of politicians come terest has shifted to alcohol and bad music instead.
Throwing the baby out
from? with the smelly bathwater. And that’s why schools don’t teach kids how to
Always tell your kids that they must “study fight wars. Otherwise, the next generation would
hard and go to college, or else they’ll end up work- lose all interest in violent conflicts, and we would
ing at (famous fast food chain whose name is with- finally have world peace.
54 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 corbis

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MaHB / Food by Ming
T h e s e d u ct i o n
of simple
The appeal of the staff meal, and
why cooks like it fuss-free.
T h e r e’s n ot h i n g m o r e va lua b l e to
cooks than a meal prepared with love and at-
If the feeding gets
tention. Aesthetic flair and technical complexity out of hand, it'll be a
with ingredients are more commercially market- bankrupt kitchen.
able from a consumer perspective, but simple
food made with love is more than enough to earn MA K E MINE MACA
our respect. Kitchen staff recognise the effort that what you’ve been making all week.
Named after a root for its
goes into a meal, and it’s already magic that we A kitchen divides to conquer, during prep resilience, MACA takes up
get to eat food made by someone else, outside of time. Part of the team is assigned to make a meal residence at the basement
our kitchens. Let me tell you how we eat daily. for everyone else, and more often than not the level of Tanglin Post Office.
Chef Rishi Naleendra offers
On the tail-end of the scenario spectrum, we budget/raw ingredients provided require some an uncompromising take
don’t eat. If you have the good fortune of working creative skill to become food that you would feed of the menu—grilled beef
tongue with zucchini; grilled
in a sought-after, well-regarded restaurant, you’ll other chefs. The result is almost always a simple calamari with goat yogurt
probably be busy in the kitchen. You will forget meal. Few of the things that we feed our fellow (pictured); chargrilled
to consume anything proper and substantial. Re- cooks with are elaborate or fancy. Few chefs crave baby octopus with smoked
miso—disparate ingredients
petitively tasting the dish you are making tends to the same complex items that they make at work. that one normally wouldn’t
lower an appetite, and the amount of water drunk Sometimes, staff members prepare small put together but are able to
find harmony on the plate.
to cleanse the palate and hydrate oneself in front snacks for each other, feeding their colleagues Chef Naleendra admits that
of the stove will fill you up. We end up craving and testing ideas and modifications at the same his food isn’t for everybody
carbs after running on fumes all day, and large, time. There is some one-upmanship, a little swag- but everyone should try it at
least once. Equally impec-
greasy suppers are par for the course. ger to the nonchalant presentation of small metal cable are the service (during
The best-case scenario is the family meal for trays of food at each other’s stations amidst carrot the courses, a wait staff
asked if he could refresh
staff. If you have the extremely good fortune of peel and digital scales. There is also much heart. an ice-diluted drink that
working in a sought-after, well-regarded restau- To me, a kitchen with cooks who are con- someone was nursing) and
the interior décor (concrete
rant that is both organised and well run, you’ll stantly feeding each other is a happy kitchen. We tables and origami that fur-
probably get to enjoy a sit-down affair with your recognise the endeavours taken to make a decent ther enhanced the resilience
team. staff meal, in the middle of a busy kitchen full of theme). In an otherwise un-
inspired culinary landscape,
The affair may not be long-lived, but the ex- even busier staff. We also acknowledge the love MACA stands as a surprising
perience is no less significant. A large kettle of behind wanting to share food with someone, oasis.
slow-cooked pork-rib soup made early in the an act that validates what we do on a daily basis. Address: 56 Tanglin Road,
day before a hard service is wolfed down with a It’s hard not to feel affection for someone wanting Tanglin Post Office, #B1-01
bowl of hastily steamed rice in the scant breather to feed you. The next time you make simple food Operating Hours: Wednes-
day to Monday (12pm to
between shifts during prep time. There are few for a cook, trust that he or she appreciates 4pm, 5pm to 10pm), closed on
things more satisfying than hot food that isn’t the effort. Tuesday
56 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 getty

"...There was so
much blood pouring
from her slit neck.
And that was how
I came up with the
Bloody Mary."
MaHB / Drinks by Kurt Ganapathy
P l ay i n g fa i r
“Hey, have you tried that new fair trade quinoa vodka?”
B e h o n e st. You’re either rolling your eyes or Th e We began with the aforementioned vodka, dis-
reassigning some money from your monthly cold- Ot h e r Ry e tilled from organic quinoa grown at altitudes of
brewed coffee budget to get a bottle ASAP. It’s a Canada makes a lot of
3,000m on the Altiplano plateau in the Andes. It’s
question that splits opinion on a spectrum be- whisky, almost all of which the only quinoa-based spirit in the world; the end
tween pretension and cynicism. it calls rye, no matter what product of a proprietary process that took two
it’s made from. Usually
And so it was with mixed feelings that I met that means you get a years to perfect. Distilled and filtered only once,
Paul Bungener, brand ambassador and sales light, smooth blend, such the vodka is smooth, sweet and spicy. It’s a cock-
as JP Wiser’s, but the rye
manager of FAIR. Based in the Cognac region of revolution is spreading, tail maker’s dream worthy of all the medals it’s
France, FAIR is a spirits company founded with and now we’ve got things been awarded.
three principles in mind. First, their spirits are like Crown Royal Northern Next, we moved on to their gin. For FAIR, less
Harvest Rye, an elegant,
made with certified fair trade products wherever lean and spicy straight rye is more. Their gin uses just six botanicals, includ-
possible. Second, their spirits meet quality stand- in the Lawrenceburg style. ing juniper berries from a nature reserve in Uz-
ards independent of the feel-good factor of their bekistan and spices from a farming cooperative in
origins. Third, their spirits offer something differ- Kerala, India. It’s quirky with a distinctive earthy
ent. I got to know them all over the course of a core of truffle, fennel and liquorice.
rapid-fire tasting. Then came a series of three rums—the high-
light of which was a rich, aromatic, five-year-old
expression from Belize aged in American bourbon
barrels. Starting with sugar cane that ticks all the
boxes—fair trade, organic and hand-harvested in
small farms—it is shaped by time-honoured Car-
ibbean traditions. One of the rums we sampled
was particularly indicative of FAIR’s stance. As
peculiar and appealing as it was, it was dropped
from their line-up because it no longer met the
certification requirements.
Finally, Bungener poured me a pair of liqueurs.
The Café, a melding of Mexican Arabica coffee
beans and Malawian sugar produced by farming
cooperatives, and the Goji, crafted with nutri-
tious goji berries grown by a group of 300 farmers
in the Tibetan region of the Himalayas. It was a
spellbinding conclusion to the tour.
Trends come and go in the world of alcohol,
but we always love our drinks to come with a sto-
ry. FAIR tells stories that give faces to fair trade.
There’s the one about the Bolivian quinoa farmer
whose kids can get a proper education. There’s
the one about the Belizean sugar cane cutter who
feels a sense of security in a country that the Unit-
ed Nations consistently ranks among the world’s
most dangerous. And there’s the one about the
Uzbekistani juniper harvester who can put food
on the table every day.
So ignore the proponents who are too pleased
with themselves and tune out the opponents
mired in their contempt. Drinking a fair trade
spirit means getting to experience something
amazing with the knowledge that we aren’t the
ones who gain the most from it.
58 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 c o r bi s

Bringing quality products to
the world. It’s a Swiss tradition.
From watches to chocolate, the Swiss are known for quality products. As the airline
of Switzerland, we oﬀer another ne export: relaxation. Find out more on swiss.com
trolled remotely (teledildonics, anyone?), sex toy
company LELO also suggests 2015 will be the year
for dirty talk and kinky antics.
Most interesting for me, though, is how we’re
also said to be seeing an increase in the number of
pansexuals. Pan what, you ask? I don’t blame your
ignorance. I myself had no idea of this sexual sub-
set until I had my first pansexual encounter two
weeks ago.
He was strikingly handsome, this 22-year-
MaHB / Sex by Tina Wang old boy-man, who had been in line behind me at
The rise of the pansexual the supermarket and politely enquired, “Making
brownies?” when he noticed the ingredients in
Who are they, and have they got game? my basket. I turned in surprise, taking in his fitted
pants and slouchy pullover that were the epitome
of stylish insouciance.
As he spent the next three minutes advising me
to use olive oil instead of butter for a more refined
take on a typical brownie recipe, I was hooked.
Two hours later, we’d had dinner and drinks, not
to mention scintillating conversation as he took
me into his “world”.
Pansexuals, he explained, are attracted to any-
one regardless of their gender identity or sexual
orientation. Not to be confused with bisexu-
pan·sex·ual als (those having a preference for both men and

women), pansexuals cast their net the widest and
are open to transgender or androgynous people as
not limited in sexual choice with regard to well.
biological sex, gender, or gender identity. I was intrigued. “Aren’t your relationships
more complicated?” I ventured. He laughed, tell-
ing me there’s nothing complicated about going
for someone based on personality alone. When I
asked what kind of personality he most liked, his
smirk was all the reply I needed.
The next day, my sore limbs and his missed call
on my mobile were evidence that I was onto a good
thing. I couldn’t help but Google to find out more.
Today’s pansexuals, it seems, are usually young,
between their twenties and mid-thirties. Father of
psychoanalysis Sigmund Freud is believed to have
Yo u’ v e h e a r d o f fas h i o n t r e n ds, food first coined the term “pansexual” to define sexual-
trends, colour trends and drink trends. But what Annnd that's the
ity as the basic motive for all human interaction.
of sex trends? Before you snort derisively, let me new Transformers And while many still aren’t aware of this social
movie in the works.
assure you they do exist. How can they not, with group, it is believed to have been around since the
sex being part of an industry worth millions? late-’00s.
Aside from how facesitting is the new anal sex There was more: the pansexual pride flag
and how more are using sex toys that can be con- colours are pink, yellow and blue. Sometimes,
pansexuality is also known as omnisexuality. And
American rapper Angel Haze is said to be pansex-
R e a d e r q u e st i o n s w e wO n’ t ual.
b e a n sw e r i n g t h i s m o n t h Before I could click to watch a video called
Straight Girls Say to Pansexuals”, my mobile
1 How do I experi- 2 Do all women 3 Please suggest
ence sexual have orgasms? some special foods beeped a message, “Meet me for brunch. You want
ecstasy with a Because I through which I can to know more about me, don’t you?” I jumped out
top-notch lady if haven’t found regain the power
I don’t want to do one who could. I’ve lost during
of bed to get in the shower. Learning should be a
too much work? intercourse. lifelong pursuit, no?

MaHB / Health by Dr Adrian Ooi
H a i r today, g o n e tomo r row

Are you struggling to lose hair gracefully? Here’s how to stop balding in its tracks.
C e n t r e- pa rt, side-part, mullet, Mohawk. Hair

places facial features in frame and is the part of
our bodies we spend a significant amount of time
grooming. So when you start noticing more loose
hairs on your comb, or when friends comment on
a receding hairline, it is natural to feel a sense of
dread. Unless you like the shaved look or are an
active national serviceman, you are not alone.
Flipping through newspapers and magazines,
you’re bound to see advertisements promising
miracle results of hair restoration with minimal
fuss. But what actually works?
There are many different causes of hair loss,
including smoking, stress, nutrient deficiencies
and systemic diseases. However, for the over-
whelming majority of us, it results from andro-
genic alopecia, where the natural testosterone we
produce is broken down into a substance called
DHT, which in turn stimulates hair shedding. It is
a significant problem encountered by 30 percent
of men in their thirties increasing to 50 percent H ow a p p ro p r i at e
by their fifties. There is (unfortunately) a genetic i s yo u r s h av e
fac e ?
component and it is mainly passed from father
to son. So take a good look at dad’s hair to get a In their bid to give you the
closest shave possible,
rough idea of where you’ll be in a couple of years’ Gillette has identified the
Guys, don't think
time. Shave Face. Problematic. It’s
of this as losing
While there are many medications out there the contortions you make hair; think of this as
to get into all the nooks and gaining face.
that purport to reverse hair loss, the two certified crannys your face has the
treatments are Rogaine (Minoxidil) and Prope- audacity to sprout hair. On a placing these units into slits or holes to restore
scale, we rate the faces you
cia (Finasteride). Rogaine is applied on the scalp shouldn’t make.
the natural hair pattern. These procedures last a
daily, and helps to increase blood flow and hair few hours, with 85 percent of transplanted hair
growth. However, it is effective only 40 percent • The Jaw-Unhinger surviving. Final results are visible eight months
For those moments when
of the time and starts to lose its effects after a you want to get every last after the procedure, and while tedious, they can
year. Propecia is an oral medication taken daily. It follicle. be spectacular and importantly, permanent. This
blocks the conversion of testosterone to DHT and • The Korean Girl Puffer same grafting procedure can be done to eyebrow
increases hair density. The common (and valid) Just practising your selfies. scars, beards and other (occasionally stranger)
fear among men is the side effects of loss of libido parts of the body.
• The Home Alone Scream
and erectile dysfunction, but in truth, these occur Tame and still providing Much research is still on going into the causes
less than one percent of the time. some form of solo and the treatments for hair loss. Machines have
entertainment.
Unfortunately, not everyone responds well to been developed which cut down hair transplant
medication. In these instances, hair restoration • The Melting Candle procedure times. Light therapy devices, which
How is this even possible?
procedures are the next step. Various techniques claim to stimulate hair growth and scalp blood
have been described, but by far the most com- • The Baby's Bottom flow, have shown ambiguous results, but positive
monly performed is hair transplantation. This If you miss it that much. evidence is mounting. Finally, early exploration
Never make the Shave Face
involves taking hair from the back of the scalp, again with Gillette’s Fusion into stem-cell-based therapies has shown prom-
which is less sensitive to DHT, segmenting it ProGlide with FlexBall™ ise. So do not fear, there is hope yet for our crown-
Technology priced between
into small units of one to four hairs and artfully SGD16.50 and SGD21.90.
ing glories.

Available @ The Travel Store
Suntec City Tower 5 • Plaza Singapura • nex • Jurong Point
www.thetravelstore.com.sg Funan DigitaLife Mall • Seletar Mall • Bedok Mall • IMM
Like Us / thetravelstore.com.sg
MaHB / Fitness by Harry Jameson
A p p e t i t e fo r
r e d u ct i o n
How to eat well and not pay for it later.
W e a l l k n ow a chain-store sandwich eat-

en al-desko will wreck your fitness regime, but
what about when you want to treat yourself
to something a little finer from the cornucopia M e at ba l ls a n d High-protein, high-fat and up on carbs, fats and
s pag h e t t i n i combined with spaghettini, proteins the night before is
of great food available in Singapore? Esquire’s PT,
it’s a good pre-event loading advisable. This helps your
Harry Jameson, offers fitness plans designed to • Calories 687 meal if you are willing to put body to hold on to energy
prevent a selection of the capital’s most delicious • Protein 52g the work in the following stores to use during the
• Fat 20g day. If you have a 10km run event. It’s relatively high in
dinners weighing heavily on you afterwards. Guilt- • Carbohydrate 76g planned—or even better salt though, so combine
free burger binges are around the corner. something like a half with plenty of water to avoid
marathon—then loading cramp from dehydration.
For more tips, tweet Harry @harryjamesonpt
Bac o n F i l l e t st e a k Ch i c k e n M a rg h e r i ta p i z z a
c h e e s e b u rg e r a n d t r i p l e- c o o k e d ca e sa r sa l a d
chips • Calories 712
• Calories 920 • Calories 379 • Protein 32g
• Protein 51g • Calories 906 • Protein 37g • Fat 20g
• Fat 62g • Protein 88g • Fat 20g • Carbohydrates 119g
• Carbohydrate 40g • Fat 55g • Carbohydrate 12g
• Carbohydrate 38g Not the most calorific
The calorific content in this A great low-carb option as pizza out there, but still a
almost boggles the mind, The smart way to get the the standard salad without significant amount. So how
especially as there’s no fries best out of this meal is to dressing contains only 12g to run them off? A 15-minute
or drink and it’s just the one use the massive amounts of of it; an ideal rest-day lunch trot round the park is not
burger: we need serious protein in the steak to bulk for those looking to lose a going to cut it. An average
damage limitation for this. up. To build lean muscle, little weight. On the days man would need to run
This is an extra special, your body needs around 2g you’re not working out, eat 10km in around 60 minutes
once-a-month treat, so of protein per kg of body less carbohydrate as your to burn 880kcals, so we are
counterbalance it with an weight each day, so for your body doesn’t need the talking about some serious
extra special calorie-burning average 85kg man, the steak energy, but it does need distance and duration
workout, 45 minutes of hot is half a daily requirement. protein, and the 37g in the to burn this off.
yoga, followed by a 5km Hit this meal after a heavy chicken will aid in muscle
run, and then an 8km spin lifting session in the gym, repair.
session—all that should burn but add eight to 10 minutes
off up to 1,600 calories. of interval hill sprints on
the way to help boost
testosterone production
and burn some extra fat
beforehand.
64 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 I l lu st r at i o n s by To by L e i g h.

CHRIS NICHOLS
Inspired by knowledge
ALDOSHOES.COM
ALDOSHOES.COM
themselves with the route, then they deserved to
lose.
I can see the logic in that argument, but I be-
lieve that Liew did the right thing in waiting. He
went on to finish outside of the medals, but if he
had won, I’m sure it would have eaten away at
him that he had not won fair and square, and this
would have put his result under a cloud. Wanting
to test oneself against the best opposition around,
and beating them on their best day, is the mark of
a true champion.
Liew also said he had been inspired by athletes
in a sport that has become better known for its
lack of fair play and integrity: cycling. It is a long-
held tradition in the sport that the leading pack
slows down if any of the top contenders are held
up for reasons that are beyond their control like
a crash.
This is also predicated on the desire to win not
because of someone else’s misfortune or bad luck,
but due to one’s own superior skills or abilities.
We see such examples in other sports as well, like
the golfers who call penalties on themselves, even
though they had inadvertently broken the rules
away from the eyes of the umpires or spectators.
And even as we condemn those who cheat to
win, we should by the same token celebrate those
who refuse to do so, and sacrifice their chances of
victory in the name of fairness and integrity.
Sports has much to offer to all of us—from a
MaHB / Sports by Nicholas Fang chance to get healthy and fit to an exciting spec-
tacle that can inspire and uplift the human spir-
Honour it—but it can also teach us many valuable lessons,
namely the merits of true sportsmanship.
a n d g lo ry So even as we cheer on the winners and cel-
Do the spoils really go to the victor? ebrate the victors, let’s never forget to applaud
those who play by the rules and place honour and
integrity above winning at all costs, for they teach
E v e ryo ne m ay lov e a w i nne r, but I’ve al- us a far more important life lesson.
ways believed that we should celebrate another
class of competitor: those who may not necessar-
Does anybody know E p i ta p hs yo u ca n y e l l
how to get rid of
ily win, but demonstrate the best values of sports- w h i l e d o i n g t he S pa rta n R ac e
a full back tat of manship, by upholding the rules of the game and
Lance Armstrong?
placing a premium on integrity and fair play.
At the recently concluded SEA Games, one
story that gained a lot of traction was that of local
marathoner Ashley Liew. During the men’s event,
he found himself in the lead when a pack of his
competitors went off course. Instead of taking ad-
vantage of the situation, he chose to slow down
and give those who took the wrong turn a chance • “TONIGHT WE DINE IN… MUD.”
• “My paleo diet made me do this!”
to catch up. • “Grass-fed BEEEEEEEF.”
He later said that he did so because he didn’t • “Brobrobrobrobrobrobro.”
want to profit from someone else’s error. While • *yell and grunt imitating the cries of a woman giving birth
because you too are giving birth.*
many applauded his sense of fair play, there were
those who also felt that knowing the course was Get your kicks, guts and muscles ready for the local chapter
of the Spartan Race on November 15 2015.
the responsibility of each and every competitor,
and that if they hadn’t bothered to familiarise Register at spartanrace.sg

"Promoting our
nation's heritage
through ridiculous
means like fish
cakes!"
MaHB / Books by Yong Shu Hoong
B ot h s i d e s n ow
Writing about the good and the not-so-good.
T h e 50 t h a n n i v e rsa ry of Singapore’s inde- H ow to c r e e p a ernment—I find it hard to second-guess what’s

pendence, abbreviated as the very catchy “SG50”, Reader out objectionable about the poem. Did the reader
is the perfect excuse for celebration—from SG50 read something between the lines that I had not
concerts and the Esplanade’s retrospective of 50 intended? Or had I subconsciously been more
iconic Singaporean English-language plays, to subversive than I would admit, while writing the
Singapore’s hosting of the 28th Southeast Asian poem? Perhaps, the line “Your habit inconsolable
Games in June. even after a lobotomy/to glean aberration/from
In the nation’s literary realm, the celebratory your surface light” doesn’t quite fit in with SG50’s
mood is likewise in the air—or more precisely, positive vibes.
within the printed page. Commissioned by the Which leads me to ponder deeper on the role
National Library Board, the official SG50 book, that literature plays in society—and in the context
Living the Singapore Story: Celebrating Our 50 here, whether cynicism or criticism can be part of
Years 1965-2015, tells the Singapore story through the SG50 celebration, even if such sentiments do
the perspectives of 58 Singaporeans from differ- temper the celebratory mood somewhat.
Step 1: Choose a hairstyle.
ent walks of life—from political leader (the late After all, if no malice is intended, reflecting on
Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew, no less) and sing- Step 2: Make sure it covers past missteps or current dissatisfaction should be
your face entirely.
er-songwriter (Dick Lee), to taxi driver and satay deemed equally vital when compared to offering
seller. Step 3: Style your looks, well-deserved praise of and thanksgiving to the
set your shoot date.
Then there’s also Our Months Together, a com- nation’s many successes. So that for the next 50
ic book divided into 12 chapters (for each month Step 4: Take tons of high years, through literature’s depictions of the good
fashion pictures with
of the year) drawn by different local artists that is your flowing black locks and the not-so-good, we can learn to live even
being distributed free at libraries, bookshops and covering your face. better on this island we love to write about and
schools. Each month’s content features aspects of Step 5: Make illustrations call home.
Singaporean life, as well as key events in Singa- of similar images.
pore’s development associated with that month. Step 6: Write cryptic,

streams-of-consciousness
In the pipeline are other literary works by var- pieces in Japanese and
ious publishers and organisations. For example, English.
as indicated on the Singapore Writers Festival’s Step 7: Highlight your
Facebook page, there is an anthology commis- loneliness.
sioned by the National Arts Council, containing Step 8: Put it all together
new works by Cultural Medallion and Young in a beautiful book.
Artist Award recipients, and another book fea- Step 9: Mail it to an
turing Chinese-language writers, edited by the Esquire writer, with a label
that says “You might like
Singapore Literature Society’s Honorary Presi- this.”
dent, Yap Koon Chan. No book titles have been
Step 10: Sign off as “A
announced yet. friend.”
I myself came close to being a participant in
Pick up the gorgeous
one of these SG50 initiatives. Approached by an Sadako’s Unfashionable
organisation for one of my poems to be displayed Fashion Diary from
BooksActually. The creepy
on MRT station platforms and compiled into a factor lessens the more
publication, I was subsequently informed that you flip through it daily.
the particular poem about the Singapore River

was deemed unsuitable after the organisation’s
further deliberation.
Looking now at my poem “River”, which was
previously published in two anthologies—in-
cluding Fifty on 50, which was launched in 2009
to celebrate Singapore’s 50th year of self-gov-

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o r l e ba r b row n a n d E s q u i r e s i n ga p o r e
h i t t h e b e ac h
Tanjong Beach Club on a Saturday is packed to the hilt with beach lovers and beautiful bods, this was even more apparent
when we held our exclusive members-only Esky Club event there. Orlebar Brown and Esquire teamed up to give our guests
a little summer-lovin’ with sun, sand and surf-ready styling tips from our very own Fashion Director Janie Cai and her
posse of models from the First Asian Underwater Rugby Team. Dressed in their handpicked looks from Orlebar Brown,
our models were walking examples of how the brand had something to suit every physique. Guests lounged under the main
canopy sipping on ice-cold Mexican beers courtesy of WWW Concepts and partaking of the delicious bites from the TBC
kitchens. As the sun swung low, guests continued the party with a spontaneous game of beer pong.
1 2
3 4 5
6 7 8
1. TBC’s Christian Tan and friend, together with Ariela Soares de Oliveira and Lane Pitcairn. 2. Our models CH Khee, Darren Huang and Vincent Law together with
Esquire’s Fashion Director, Janie Cai. 3. Buckets of ice-cold beer thanks to WWW Concepts. 4. Vincent Law. 5. Beam Artistes actor Keagan Kang, together with
friends, Steve Duckham and Greg Hamilton. 6. Orlebar Brown Brand Manager, Kien Koh, together with designer Samuel Wong and Koh Jin. 7. Guests received a
special door gift, courtesy of Esquire and Orlebar Brown. 8. The First Asian Underwater Rugby Team on land, keeping hydrated with buckets of Mexican beer.
ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 71

EVENT
M o nt b l a n c X T h e E s q u i r e
F i ct i o n W r i te r P roj ect
Nothing was fictitious about the success of Esquire’s inaugural Fiction Writer Project. With the support of Montblanc, the
three-month short fiction campaign, which started in April, saw more than 50 entries. With the theme “Exploring New
Heights”, Esquire’s Editor-in-Chief, Zul Andra and Head Writer, Wayne Cheong, alongside Contributing Fiction Editor,
Amanda Lee Koe, selected the top 10 entries. The top three works—all published in Esquire with votes from Montblanc’s
Managing Director, Andreas Boesch—were revealed at the brand’s Mandarin Gallery outlet with food and drinks provided
by WWW Concepts. Also in attendance, Montblanc’s new Writers Edition pen that pays tribute to 19th-century Russian
novelist, Leo Tolstoy. It was a brilliant evening dedicated to the art of penmanship.
1 2
4 5 6
1. Although penmanship calls for solitude, a gathering of writers and readers always brings out spirited conversations. 2. Montblanc Singapore’s Managing Director,
Andreas Boesch (left), shares his insights on the project with a guest. 3. Did you know that you can get your own customised Montblanc nib designed to the way
you write? Now you do. 4. Esky Club member Jared Goh and Nicole Ann Lim enjoying a concoction of wine and brilliantly worded fiction. 5. Esky Club member
Timothy Ong and his guest, Rebekah Ng, viewing Montblanc’s latest collection of writing instruments. 6. Guests came in droves.

EVENT
7 8
9 10 11
12 13
14
7. Montblanc Singapore’s Senior Marketing Manager, Katharina Ueltschi, sharing the stories behind the latest writing instruments. 8. Writer, Eldon Ooi, posing next
to his first prize story. 9. Listed in the top 10, writer Wan Phing Lim (right) is piqued by an instrument made from rich history. 10. Christian Barker keeping time. 11.
Tan Sihan (right) and a guest stand beside the former’s top 10 listed story. 12. Esquire’s Editor-in-Chief, Zul Andra, welcoming guests to the evening. 13. Zul Andra
and Fashion Director, Janie Cai, flanked by artists from Tribeca Management. 14. People actually enjoy reading and drinking—not necessarily in that order.

w h a t i ’ v e lea r ne d Interview by Janie Cai Photograph by Nicky Loh
James Ferragamo
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO GROUP LEATHER GOODS DIVISION DIRECTOR, 43
Singaporean men are definitely much more casual when it comes to style. They enjoy the luxury of not having to wear ties, which I
envy. It’s conducive to the climate.
I travel once a month, more or less. Travelling to a particular market is a way to see what they need and find out how we can develop
the collection moving forward.
Joining the family business was something that I really wanted to do. Ferragamo is founded on craftsmanship, quality and attention
to detail.
Nowadays, it is really about renovating the product, but at the same time, [we need to] maintain our identity [and] recognise what the
brand is, and what it is founded on.
“Made in Italy” is synonymous with quality and a certain Italian style—an ability to really enjoy life and disorganisation. [laughs]
Brad Pitt is a good example of someone who has his own style; he comes across as a bit of a country boy. He seems down-to-earth.
I’m very involved in everything. I believe that if you don’t go through it yourself, you won’t really learn by asking.
I worked on the distribution line, packing shoes into boxes, when I was seven. At nine, I moved onto the production line. At 13, I made
my first pair of Vara shoes for my English grandmother.
My grandfather was one of the first to spearhead the concept of celebrity endorsement. He always had a camera ready when celebri-
ties were in the store and took some amazing images with the stars. I think that having a story that can be told, and then sharing it with
someone else, who has his or her own story/reality, can be very inspiring.
I don’t really consider myself a celebrity.
At our new exhibition in Florence, I was able to hear a recording of my grandfather’s voice. It’s funny. He spoke like an American be-
cause he spent so many years in the US; his fluency is impressive. The fact that he was such an international person really made him
understand the opportunities that were starting to open up in other countries.
I think he was a genius not only in terms of his creativity, but also his ability to always think ahead and stay positive.
I do marathons and triathlons. I get up very early in the morning to train. I did New York in November, and in April, I will be doing
Cannes, which is a 2km swim, 18km bike and 16km run.
If you can’t figure out something in four hours of running, you will never figure it out.
I went to boarding school when I was 13. It’s something that makes you grow up and understand the many different things that you
will encounter later on in life. It also makes you more of a team player.
I like London; the English are much more international in certain respects.
Luxury products should have an extremely long life, but we need to make sure how they are made is good for the environment, too.
Only three family members are allowed to work in an operational role [at Ferragamo] regardless of generation, but it’s a good way to
try and strike a balance. Having too many family members sometimes makes it non-competitive—there’ll be too much thinking of cre-
ating dreams that cannot be made into reality.
What’s important is creating innovation, understanding what customers would like and what else you can offer them; anticipate their
needs.
Shoemaking is a 3D approach, so [combining] the artistic and the creative together with somebody, who also has the same view, is very
interesting. We work with a lot of factories that have a multigenerational workforce, where every senior shoemaker has somebody
young under his or her wing who can grow within the organisation.
I spent five months backpacking around the world with my brother and sister. We did Thailand, Burma, Malaysia, Singapore… all of
Australia, New Zealand, Fiji, Los Angeles and Mexico. This was in 1997, before I started working at Ferragamo.
I’ve always noticed that [Singapore] is extremely clean, orderly… but that this order and control was necessary to bring the country
forward [to its current state]. The person who was able to make such a huge change in 50 years had a clear vision and stuck to it for de-
cades, as did his successors. I think that’s really made a difference and put Singapore on the map.
Enjoy what you do.

ESQUIRE
ESQUIRE MAY 2015 75
SEPTEMBER
w h at i ’ v e l e a r n e d Interview by Manasa Sitram Photograph by Chng Dju-Lian
Daniel Boey
Writer, Stylist and Creative, 50
I grew up in the East (side of Singapore), where I honed my fashion skills. That’s where I learnt everything.
With a Catholic education, you looked at how the teachers were dressed. When I went to primary school in the ’60s, there were teach-
ers dressed in miniskirts and bell-bottom pants. You remember all of this. When I went to St Pats (St Patrick’s School), some teachers
actually wore suits, and I thought that was so amazing.
[This year] marks my 25th year in fashion. I thought why not combine everything together, and write the story of my life [The Book of
Daniel], which is, like, the history of Singapore fashion.
I signed the contract, and then flew to London. I wrote the book when I was traipsing around London Fashion Week, [and then] Par-
is and Milan. It took about six months to write.
If not for my background in theatre, if not for my experience in music, I don’t think I would have been a good show producer. Essential-
ly, being a show producer is about telling a story, and instead of a script, you have the clothes to tell the story with.
I support local because I am local. If people hadn’t taken a chance on me when I started out, then I wouldn’t have this career that I do.
So, I think, it’s time to give back. But at the same time, I also realised that you had to go to a foreign country and make a name for your-
self before people would embrace you here.
But I don’t just blindly support local talent. I buy and support them because I believe in them. There are some great Singapore design-
ers, but there are also some really crap ones, so you have to be discerning. You don’t just put a model in your show because they’re from
Singapore. If you put a whole bunch of crap models, people are gonna say, “Singapore models are terrible; let’s not use them.” You gotta
use someone who flies the flag for the country. People have to go, “Oh my God, she’s really great. I didn’t know she was Singaporean!”
That’s the reaction you want to try and get.
Am I ready to do National Day? I don’t know, but I would love to be the Creative Director of National Day.
Fashionistas don’t need fashion advice; they just need to know what the latest trend to buy is. Sometimes, we really take [being in the
fashion industry] for granted; we walk into a store and know what to buy. It is a problem for people who are not in fashion.
Not everything I own is expensive, you know. I don’t money every day. It’s a matter of how you put an outfit together. Know
your fabrics and how to take care of them. Know how to mix and match expensive things with the cheap stuff. Fashion doesn’t have to
be expensive; it is how expensive people think your clothes are.
I have a certain style. I try to be versatile. But if you put me in a tutu and ask me to walk down Orchard Road, it’s not my thing. Some
people can rock it, but I can’t, you know?
I’m not built like Beckham, so I can’t dress like him, but I can fake it. I mean, how many models actually have perfect bodies? But they
know how to fake it; the fashion stylists know how to fake it.
Celebrities are built like super-humans. They already look good in clothes, so it’s very easy to make over a celebrity. I wanted to make
over a real person.
If you catch me at the wrong moment, yes, I can be a . Yes, I can be very difficult, but that’s just me at work. Does that represent
who Daniel Boey is? No. Because I think if I’m just a all the time or I’m just a nice person all the time, I’ll be very one-dimension-
al. There are many different sides to me—the good, the bad, the nasty.
I’d rather speak my mind and have you take me for who I am, rather than be plastic.
There was a time when I believed my own hype. You need to have really, really good friends who can tell you, “Don’t be an
.” That’s so important. The word “diva” is associated with me, but you must realise that there are certain times when you should be a
diva, and there are certain times when you shouldn’t let your ego get in the way. If you can’t make that distinction, hopefully, you have
people who can help you with that.

ESQUIRE
ESQUIRE MAY 2015 7 7
SEPTEMBER
A T H OU S A N D W OR D S ON OUR C ULTUR E
PA PA R A Z Z I W I LL E AT I TS E L F
By Bill Lee
“So I’m struggling off the train and down the every style-focused media outlet today.
railway platform in Milan, alone, with two full- As our man’s exasperated remark suggests,
size Rimowas, a wheelie bag and a Keepall, and I he’d be very happy to roll like the standard busi-
get into the elevator with Tommy Ton”—the man ness traveller and work a tight capsule wardrobe
widely regarded as the top street-style photogra- during the shows. But he knows that he has to
pher. “‘Wow,’ Tommy says to me, laughing at how play the street-style game, to some extent. It’s
much more stuff I’m lugging than he is. ‘Seriously, become important, from a “personal branding”
is all that yours?’ And I’m like, ‘Yeah man, and you standpoint, to be featured in a few of the right
know what? It’s your fault. If it weren’t for places by the paparazzo—papped candidly, natch,
you guys, I could probably get by on three suits!’” nonchalant and blasé to the sizzle of countless
This anecdote was relayed to me by a magazine Canon lenses snapping your carefully sprezzy
editor who’s a fixture at the menswear shows, and swag, as you stroll the streets of one fashion capi-
whose face, tailored attire and artfully flourished tal or another. Street-style prominence can boost
cigarette frequently appear in the street-style your profile, help your career—hell, there are
coverage shot by Ton and his countless contem- plenty of characters who have made their liveli-
poraries, competitors and poseurs for just about hood and built businesses on nothing but looking
78 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 c o rbis

good outside fashion shows. (Many are forced to one too many.)
linger outside by virtue of the fact that they’re not From million-circulation mega magazines to
actually invited. Silver lining: that allows ample obscure, barely trafficked blogs, right down to
opportunity to be shot by literally every man and your Facebook friends’ OCD #OOTD postings,
his blog.) The need to get your @personalbrand nowadays, it seems everyone’s in the street-style
#outthere places enormous pressure on men’s biz. But it wasn’t always so. This writer remem-
fashion players to bring their stylistic A-game bers a time when the on-the-street shots docu-
to each and every day of the menswear shows in menting youth subcultural chic in i-D magazine
London, Milan, Paris and now, New York—not to (which pioneered the form from its earliest days,
mention the thermonuclear peacockery arms race 35 years ago) seemed incredibly unique, fresh
that is the Pitti Uomo trade show in Florence. and subversive. You can imagine, back in the
Hence, as our friend describes above, the need for day, those ravers, raggas, punks, skaters and such
a truckload of luggage, enough to sustain at least were probably baffled when the magazine’s pho-
one unique “lewk” for each day of the June and tographers asked them to pose for a street shot in
January menswear juggernauts. the outfit they’d thrown together that morning.
Fashion media fellas with hernias and badass Those kids weren’t dressing with the aim of get-
excess baggage bills? Blame Tommy Ton. No, ting famous—it was simply about self-expression,
wait—that’s really not fair. Goddam Scott “The and maybe impressing the opposite sex, which is
Sartorialist” Schuman is the guy who started it what fashion or style should be about, really.
all. Yes, yes, legendary old-school octogenarian Doyenne of fashion journalism Suzy Menkes
lensman Bill Cunningham is the recognised origi- wrote a story about the whole street photo phe-
nator of the street-style snap, but it’s Schuman nom for New York Times’ T magazine in early
who’s responsible for the rat- scrum that 2013. “We were once described as ‘black crows’—
this scene has become. In late 2005, as the first us fashion folk gathered outside an abandoned,
light of the #menswear era dawned, Schuman crumbling downtown building in a uniform of
launched his blog, which initially focused on Comme des Garçons or Yohji Yamamoto. ‘Whose
profiling sartorially astute gentlemen and effort- funeral is it?’ passers-by would whisper… as we
lessly chic ladies that the amateur photographer lined up for the hip, underground presentations
came across on the streets of his hometown New back in the ’90s,” she reminisced. Flash forward
York, and subsequently further afield. A decade to the present, and “the fuss around the shows
on, Schuman is the pre-eminent “independent” now seems as important as what goes on inside,”
street-style photographer, with sponsorships, she mused. Pursuing instaglamorous fame for
advertising and tie-ups with numerous brands. fame’s sake, “today, the people outside fashion
Excellent advertising revenue at his heavily hit shows are more like peacocks than crows… not so
website reportedly brings the diminutive image- much hunted down by the paparazzi as gagging
maker a million-dollar per annum income. for their attention.”
And snap-pap-pop ker-ching. In no small part, The irony is that, probably because they stand
it is the past few years’ extensive media report- out so starkly against the Technicolor peacocks,
ing of Schuman’s prosperity that has brought the it’s now the crow-like—folk rocking that gang-
masses rushing to join him in the street photogra- sta/goth/G-Dragon Hood By Air monochromatic
phy blogging game. On the other side of the cam- look—who are capturing the street paps’ atten-
era, of course, you have clutches of barely literate tion. The irony for all those wannabe Schumans
style bloggers raking in big bucks off the back of and try-hard Ferragnis out there, meanwhile, is
stupendously superficial Instagram followings that because there’s now such a surplus of both
built in tandem with street-style stardom. Chanc- street-style photographers and potential subjects,
es are, all those overdressed, uninvited strivers the law of supply and demand dictates that their
hanging outside the Milan and Paris shows, des- value is vastly diminished. With so many jockey-
perate to be shot, are looking for their shot at ing for position, whether peacock or crow, the
becoming the next Bryanboy or Chiara Ferragni. million-buck blogger and the WIWT tycoon are
(Lord help us. The next Bryanboy? One is already sure to become ever more rare birds.

T h e
U N l u c k i e s t
M a n
i n
H o l l y w o o d
The term “near misses” cuts both
ways. For Henry Cavill, the near
misses of being cast in franchises
like Harry Potter, Twilight, James
Bond and Superman (Bryan Singer’s
version) cut the deepest. But
recent years have been kind to him
as he’s bounced his way through
roles like Charles Brandon, the
Duke of Suffolk (The Tudors),
Theseus (Immortals) and Superman
(Zack Snyder’s version). Can Cavill
keep the hits coming with his
latest film, The Man from UNCLE?
Piers Manning / The Interview People
P H OTO BY WA R N E R B ROS. ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 81

82 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 P H OTO BY S N A P P E R M E D I A .
Henry
Cavill
has singlehandedly redefined a new breed in stoic,
squared-jawed heroism. Largely down to his vault-
ing performance as the Man of Steel, as well as his
previous turns as Charles Brandon in The Tudors and
Theseus in Immortals, he has managed to cultivate
a leading man image from the Golden Age of Holly-
wood.
But secretly, he just wants to be the funny guy.
“I love comedy, but it’s not something that neces-
sarily comes my way,” he says, looking exceedingly
hunky in a form-fitting dark sweater as we sit down
to chat in a suite in Claridge’s. “I worked on a Woody
Allen film years ago and would love the opportunity
to go further with it, like slapstick humour.”
Before he goes all Adam Sandler on us, the
32-year-old hunk from Jersey, England is suavely
debonair in a big budget remake of legendary ’60s se-
ries, The Man from UNCLE. Cavill amps up the cool
in the Guy Richie-directed adventure as Napoleon
Solo, a dashing yet dirty art dealer recruited by the
CIA to join forces with KGB agent, Illya Kuryakin
(Armie Hammer), to help locate a mysterious crimi-
nal organisation with a deadly nuclear bomb.
Achingly hip and fashionable, it’s an enjoyable
romp for the sculpted star who’s currently putting
the finishing touches to his second outing as Clark
Kent, this time doing battle alongside Ben Affleck in
Batman vs Superman: Dawn of Justice. Not that Cav-
ill is giving much away—or indeed anything—on the
SGD280 million (translated price) epic as he’s sworn
to secrecy by the gods of Tinseltown.
But the star—inexplicably single since splitting
with Fast and Furious actress, Gina Carano—happily
talks about his chic new role, his tattered wardrobe,
beating the bullies, rejection, his shaky skills as a
barman and once being known as “The Unluckiest
Man in Hollywood”.

ESQUIRE: Probably unfair to ask if you were a
fan of the original series?
HENRY CAVILL: When it originally aired? [laughs]
Yes, of course I was. Watched it from the first broad-
cast. I’m actually far older than I let on. [laughs]
ESQ: Did you sit down with the box set then?
HC: I didn’t. I know Armie [Hammer; Cavill’s co-star
in UNCLE] and a few of the others did, but I felt like
we were doing something very different here and
wanted to stay true to that. The big attraction was
[director] Guy Ritchie for me. This story, it was… just
so cool. As is Guy, and putting the two together, it’s
going to deliver something very special. And the tone
he sets on set is all about fun. His thing was: “We’re I d o n ’ t kn o w i f thi s i s
making movies, we ought to be having a lot of fun.
We’re doing it wrong otherwise.” And that makes it
ri g ht. P e o p l e a re a l re a dy
so much more enjoyable. And if things got too seri- w e l l aware yo u ’ re E n g -
ous, he’d tell everyone to stop and snap out of it. l i s h , a n d i t ju s t s o u n d s
ESQ: Tell me more about Napoleon Solo... l i ke yo u ’ re ru b b i s h at a n
HC: He’s an with a heart. [laughs] Ameri- Ame ri c an ac c e n t.
can, bit of an Anglophile, with an Irish background.
His father was a janitor, but he managed to infiltrate
English high society. He loves it so much, dealing ESQ: I read earlier that because of UNCLE and
art on the black market, but ends up getting caught Superman, it’s quite hard for you to find clothes
by the CIA and being blackmailed into working for that fit because your body shape is constantly
them. And becomes one of their best—even though in flux. Unusual problem to have...
he’s still not one of them. HC: It’s not so much unusual as expensive. When I
bulk up, I can’t fit into any of my clothes, so I have
ESQ: Your accent, I read somewhere Clark Ga- to go out and buy a new wardrobe, essentially. And
ble was the inspiration? then, they’re all hanging off me when I’m smaller.
HC: That was my original aim, but Guy kept saying,
“I don’t know if this is right. People are already well ESQ: You were once known as “the unluckiest
aware you’re English, and it just sounds like you’re man in Hollywood” after coming very close to
rubbish at an American accent.” That was no good, a string of iconic roles. Do you feel quite so un-
so we just started introducing some Americanisms, lucky now?
elongated “Rs” and such, and it ended up as a Trans- HC: [laughs] Now that’s quite a title. [laughs] One to
atlantic twang, somewhat affected. A weird hybrid. be proud of. I see myself as incredibly lucky with ev-
erything right now. Incredible opportunities, living
ESQ: The role was originally meant for Tom the dream.
Cruise. Does that make it special for you, to
know you’re in the same league? ESQ: Did you see yourself as unlucky with the
HC: Well, firstly, I didn’t replace Tom Cruise… the loss of certain roles?
specifications of the character changed and I was HC: I see it more as timing. Timing has been every-
a suitable fit. And very nice of you to say, but I am thing for me and I’m grateful for that. Getting the
definitely nowhere near the same league. Very few chance to grow and evolve, take my time. I’m a firm
people are, in my humble opinion. believer in everything happening for a reason. Cer-
tainly when it comes to your career. And in this busi-
ESQ: The look of the film is achingly hip and ness, 99 percent is rejection. I’m no different from
cool, helped a great deal by the fashion. And anyone else.
you are rocking some awesome suits and
shades. It must have been a nice change from ESQ: But you were so close to Batman, Bond,
the red cape? Edward Cullen, Superman—did you ever think
HC: Definitely had more choice, [laughs] I love of quitting?
clothes, and I loved the classic, tailored suits I got to HC: See now, much of this is Internet rumours. Bat-
wear; real quality. What I love about the ’60s is there man, I didn’t even screen test so there was no disap-
was flair. That dash of colour, the sharp accent, it was pointment there. Twilight, there was talk, but I was
so interesting to see how they experimented with too old for the part by the time they started making
style back then. Probably more so than we do now. the film. Bond, yeah, I wasn’t thrilled.

P H OTO BY S N A P P E R M E D I A . ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 85
ESQ: Has it wrapped, or are you still filming?
HC: Honestly, and I’m not being rude, but I cannot
say anything. And I know myself, once I reveal some
tiny detail, it’s all going to come out.
ESQ: How is it working with Ben Affleck?

Tim e s when I was o u t i n HC: I’m a big fan of his. I think he’s an extraordi-
LA for months , wi t h n o nary talent. He’s got his own signature style. He does
j o b out of i t and f o rc e d things his own way and I really respect that. He’s had
his ups and downs, and now, ups again, and I think
to c ome home, b ac k t o that helps cultivate a wealth of character in a career.
Lo n d on and g et a jo b as And a person.
a b arman, whi c h I wa s ESQ: What does it mean to you to be playing

jus t awf u l at. Superman again?
HC: Just the honour. It really, truly is an honour, not
just in getting to do it once, but to be granted the op-
ESQ: Did you think about quitting? Rejection portunity again. It’s magical. And yes, look, stepping
is tough, but coming so close,and getting run- in front of the mirror, with the costume on, I… you
ner-up is almost worse? cannot describe the feeling. It’s just so cool.
HC: It’s all experience. I never wanted to quit. I had
belief in myself, which I learned from my family, my ESQ: I have to say, though, Batman is no com-
parents. It’s weird, after certain rejections, you be- petition for Superman. He has no special pow-
lieve in yourself more. It spurs you on. But in saying ers, just gadgets. How is that going to work?
that, there were down times. Times when I was out HC: Hmmm...
in LA for months, with no job out of it and forced to
come home, back to London and get a job as a bar- ESQ: I see that I need to move on here. You’ve
man, which I was just awful at. And I’d save up to pay spoken about the bullying in school because
for the flights and the accommodation to get back out of your weight. Did it have a negative effect on
to LA to audition, and again, come back after a few you?
months with nothing. But I never wanted to quit. HC: Look, it’s bullying. So many go through it, I went
through it. I was overweight in school and kids are
ESQ: Why were you such a terrible barman? kids. They can be very mean. I was an easy target.
HC: Couldn’t make cocktails. [laughs] And I worked Though it wasn’t so much the name-calling, it was
in a cocktail bar, just off Trafalgar Square. I was aw- more that I felt very alone. I was so quiet. Didn’t talk
ful. I said that I could make them to get the job, but much. That has more of an effect. But then again,
when it came down to it, I hadn’t a clue. how many young kids, teenagers feel the same way?
It’s a part of growing up.
ESQ: And look where you are now.
HC: Yea. Still can’t make a decent cocktail. [laughs] ESQ: It really is the ultimate underdog story—
overweight, bullied schoolboy grows up to be
ESQ: Daniel Craig only has a certain amount of Superman.
time left. Is Bond the next dream after Super- HC: You can’t write this stuff. [laughs]
man?
HC: I’m not quite done with Superman just yet. ESQ: How has life changed for you since Man
[laughs] Steady on. As I’ve said, many times before, of Steel?
I would relish the chance. It would be amazing. Who HC: Not hugely, if I’m honest. I still live the same
knows? And I think Daniel Craig has a few more life, do the same things. Probably the biggest change
Bonds left in him yet. is I’m busy. And there’s nothing wrong with that. I’m
busy all the time and it keeps you out of trouble.
ESQ: Rumours say Spectre is going to be his
last. ESQ: The spotlight, the paparazzi?
HC: Rumours say a lot of things. HC: Oh, that! I’m fine with it. I think it’s much harder
for the people who are with me to deal with it—due
ESQ: Batman vs Superman… to the fact that it takes us a lot longer to get from A to
HC: Hmmm… B than before. It’s a pain for them, I think. What used
to take 10 minutes, now takes a half hour because I’m
ESQ: I can see you’re dying to spill the beans. stopping for photographs and saying hello to people.
HC: Hmmm… [laughs] I don’t mind it.

The
Outtakes
While Cavill is taciturn about his role in Batman vs Superman:
Dawn of Justice, he lets a few other titbits fly with regards to
The Man from UNCLE.
On drawing from the ’60s as a frame of reference

“I remember my brother bringing back a piece of [the Berlin Wall when it came down].
But even today, there’s the idea of constant threat. And the great thing about the ’60s, and
maybe today as well, is that despite this underlying threat at all times, people are still go-
ing about their lives and just really enjoying it.
“Right now, there’s always the threat of terrorism, non-stop, especially in the US, so
we can appreciate how it may have felt. I mean, it’s not quite the same as nuclear apoca-
lypse, but maybe, we can be a bit more in tune with it because nuclear apocalypse is
something that is really difficult to fathom. A bunch of people getting hurt is easier
to imagine.”
On playing Superman and Napoleon Solo

“It’s the joy of being an actor. You get to play these different roles, and then see yourself
in these sort of imaginary characters. It’s fun. I wouldn’t want to play the same character
over and over again forever. You’ve got to mix it up, and break it up. Otherwise, it just
gets a bit boring.
“And as I said, Napoleon is really fun to play. And as much as Superman is a very stoic
character, it’s also very cool to be Superman. He’s got superpowers, and he does some
pretty wild stuff. It is fun to switch and change.”
On his time on UNCLE

“It was fantastic. Most enjoyable movie I’ve worked on. Most fun. We all walked away as
friends. We’ll see each other again, as friends. It’s hard to say more, really.
It was just relaxed.”
p h otoS by WA R N E R B ROS. ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 87

a wom an we lov e
Wo rds by lestar i hairul

P h o to g ra ph s by Iva nho Har lim and Shysilia Nov ita
Sty l ing by Janie Cai
88 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 L ac e l i n g e r i e by H & M; p o ly e st e r s k i rt by Sa n d ro.

A
Portrait
of Fire
and Lace
Opinionated, with a savvy business head firmly on the shoulders of a design maven, Priscilla
Shunmugam is the founder of local womenswear label Ong Shunmugam. Together, we dive into the
problems facing the local industry, and in the wake of the jubilee, examine a possible way forward.
Who says fashion is all empty-headed frivolity?

F
ashion is a strange land-
scape of unfathomable
things to the uninitiated,
a carefully constructed
world until you peek be-
hind the veil of glamour
and see the grit-mired hard work that’s
involved. I see this now, hanging out
with Priscilla Shunmugam, 34, at the
warehouse facility that she rents deep in
the boondocks of Bukit Batok. It is pa-
tently unglamorous. After the security
locks, you pass through heavy plastic
curtains reminiscent of a meat locker’s
and into a cold building of stark white
lighting with containers stacked up
neatly together. One can’t help but think
it would make a perfect set for a maze-
like slasher flick.
But at the end of the path, flanked by
nearly identical storage units, we reach
Shunmugam’s sanctum of cloth. Here,
bale upon bale are crammed together,
all sourced from Asia and of varying de-
grees of dearness and historical signifi-
cance, ready to be turned into beautiful
clothes. Perhaps, that’s a slight exag-
geration because the real effect is more
mundane.
She is sitting on the floor, right by the
open doors to the storage unit, because
there is no space, and cutting a piece of
Korean lace for a client. Her hair is in a
messy bun and the neckline of her top
is loose enough to fall down one shoul-
der. Letting out the occasional yawn, it’s
clear her mind is drifting off to think
about the other things that she has to do
amidst the absurd simplicity of my ini-
tial questions.
“Yah, I’m tired, I’m… I have so many
things going on in my head and I’m so…
I’m just so sick of doing interviews. It’s
nothing personal against you. I’m just,
90 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 B ro ca d e d r e ss by O n g S h u n m u ga m.

y’know, lacking sleep. Just struggling to do, to keep it all go- turned to Singapore, plonked down her
ing, but that’s the reality of it,” she says. savings, together with that of investors,
I sense frustration. and set up shop designing some of the
“Sometimes, I just want to do what I’m supposed to do, but most inventive takes on Southeast Asian
that’s how running a business is. You can’t have your cake and women’s fashion, earning accolades and
eat it, too. You have to take everything in your…” awards in the process.
Somewhere in the warehouse, an alarm goes off and rings In an industry stuck in the dismal
for a quick irritating bit. state of “blogshops or Instagram stars
“…Stride and accept the good with the bad, and I think with suddenly deciding that maybe [they]
success or growth comes an underbelly, which people don’t should start [their] own fashion label,
really want to talk about or look at, but it’s important.” or talented kids, who went to LaSalle or
In between answering my questions, she replies to texts on NAFA, and spent years and effort, but
her two phones, takes pictures of the fabric, and then mea- are going nowhere”, she is effectively at
sures and cuts it. She moves about the cramped space, dragging the top of the game here. Ong Shunmu-
bales here and there, picking the right ones, pausing occasion- gam is one of the few truly independent,
ally to think through what needs to be done next, and perhaps and most importantly, thriving labels
how else to answer this journalist who’s by then eschewed her without a dynasty of investors to fall
prepared set of questions and jumped into the fray. back on or a continuous siphoning of
government grants. But forget the clev-
What are the aspects of this kind of life that you really erness and the sheer beauty of the work;
do not like? for the media, it’s a strange case study on
“The difficulty of saying ‘no.’” unconventionality made good.
The alarm goes off again, as she is ex-
Like to this interview? plaining this odd fascination to me.
“No! I’m really happy to do this. I like the magazine. I like “Sorry. What that is, is when some-
what you guys do. But it’s just waking up to a bunch of stupid one opens a unit without keying in their
emails. Imagine spending eight hours with a journalist, and passcode. So it’s like a bird going crazy,”
then still being sent additional questions to which you have she explains, before continuing, “Well,
already provided answers. I’m flying to New York on Saturday I think it’s a leftover, after-effect, of the
with my collection and I haven’t even packed. I have way bet- social engineering that Singaporeans go
ter things to do. If I give you six hours of my time, you can’t through, which really just conditions
come back and ask me to give you another two. Every hour them to define success or fulfilment in
counts and I have other things to do, but I can’t say ‘no’, nor monetary terms. This usually needs to
can I possibly reason with her because it will come across as be accompanied by socially accepted
being, I don’t know, difficult, diva-ish, unreasonable. But the professions like law, medicine or bank-
truth is, I’m not a celebrity! I have work to do! That’s the real- ing. There’s still that fixation with defin-
ity of it, in Singapore, at least. People just take it that if you’re ing success in those terms. So when they
a designer, you want to be famous, you want to be glamorous, see someone walk away from that, they
you want to look good all the time. Look at me; this is me all can’t wrap their head around it. It’s like,
the time.” ‘Why?’”
She is standing now, holding her arms open in exasperation She mimics the curious ones going,
as she describes the journalists who ask the same thing over “But why?” in a stage crescendo. Their
and over again through the years, or the one who comically incredulity shaped by a lifetime of being
enough, keeps coming back for more until the total interview told that social categorisation is de ri-
time has stretched to eight hours. All while reassuring me, gueur and a constant reminder of where
“It’s okay, Lestari, just hit me, hit me! And I’m here for you.” your place is in the social hierarchy
The transition from law to fashion, at least the repeated at- based on Singaporean Pragmatism.
tempts of other journalists at broaching the subject, appears We talk further about the local fash-
to be a particular bone of contention for Shunmugam. It’s been ion industry, which, despite having pub-
five years, as she rightly points out, but the on-going fascina- lished an article about it a year ago, I
tion with a person who’s turned away from the straight, nar- have to admit I’m still on the fringes of
row and confirmed path of conventional success continues to understanding it, dominated as it is by
be the thing that defines her for many. Despite all the praise
for the strength of her designs and the quality of her pieces, We’re very good at putting
that peculiar issue still sticks. on a big overcoat that says
For you, reader bros, who are quite unfamiliar with the we are the hub of this or
world of women’s fashion, here’s the quick and the dirty: Shun- that, we are bla bla . But
mugam is a Singapore-based Malaysian who qualified here but when you take the overcoat
left her law career behind, after a few years of practice, to learn off there’s nothing
dressmaking and sewing in London. All that achieved, she re- underneath.

women’s fashion. Shunmugam lays it out.
“Singapore’s really good at packaging things. We’re very
good at putting on a big overcoat that says we are the hub of
this or that. We are bla bla bla. But when you take the overcoat
off, there’s nothing underneath. We’re very good at organising
fashion shows, but we have no fashion industry. We don’t have
any of the basic requirements that you need to have a proper
fashion industry. We produce fashion students every year, but
they can’t sew to a decent standard. They don’t know their
fashion industry well enough or their fashion history deep
enough—some of them are just borderline ignorant.
“A lot of money is really just being wasted on people who My expectations are MUCH
are just very good at selling their ideas, and ultimately, quite higher, in the same way that I
self-serving. I don’t claim to be able to offer all the solutions, push this brand MUCH higher.
but I can pinpoint what’s wrong and what’s needed. On sev- People may think that WE’ve
eral occasions, I have spoken up about what needs to be done, done quite well for OURSELVES
but it usually falls on deaf ears. Not enough people are vested but I think we still have a
long way to go.
enough to make these changes happen.”
It appears that most initiatives set out by the State are in
a dismal endemic state. In this post-SG50 world, surely we done quite well for ourselves, but I think
can see it for what it is. Shunmugam uses an interesting turn we still have a long way to go.”
of phrase to describe the end-game of the rat race that virtu- Point well taken. She applies this to
ally every young Singaporean is set on: office tower success. the fashion industry too, the way the
The great CBD swarms with these denizens: the OLs clad in initial applause and excitement fade,
blogshop staples and the men in the blues, the pinks and the as tends to happen in a country where
whites of Robinsons Department Store offerings, plodding trendy novelties are valued all too read-
away in square-toed black shoes. It’s a bleak spectacle of the ily before they are given a chance to
result of policies and social conditioning intent upon letting grow. On a breakneck pace to success
the creative class wither in favour of top-grade drones who with not that many qualities of true lon-
can work as efficiently and economically as possible along a gevity to show for, restaurants open and
prescribed route of PSLE, O-Levels, JC, A-Levels and local close, brands debut to much fanfare and
Uni. And if you fall by the wayside, there’s little hope or pos- fold.
sibility that you’ll be able to crawl out of the cracks. You can “It’s going to take 50 years. It’s just
only accept your lot in life. that people are not willing to accept
Shunmugam juxtaposes Singapore with Bangkok, a city that. Or they think it can be solved just
with a lower GDP where English isn’t widely spoken, but like that. No. It takes a whole society. It
where creativity and all the associated industries flourish be- takes a whole mindset. And it really just
cause historically, they have rarely been viewed with disdain. takes failure. People need to fail. The
“You have really healthy, thriving industries that aren’t dic- problem with entrepreneurship right
tated by any top-down action. They don’t need grants, they now is that it’s really an activity of the
don’t need initiatives, they don’t need plans; it just happens. privileged. The people who are really
And that’s the problem in Singapore: it’s just not happening,” taking risks in Singapore are those who
she observes. can afford to take risks. So what kind of
But surely, there have been grassroots efforts by creative risk is that anyway?” she says.
Singaporeans trying their hand at making it work? Look at the “Creativity comes from limitations. I
burgeoning artisanal and craft industries. As much as they are really think that’s why a city like Bang-
riding hard on the hipster wave that’s sweeping developed na- kok has a wonderful scene because the
tions the world over, it must count for something? people who are taking these risks, in
“I think a lot of them are faddish pet projects by people spite of the uncertainties, are those who
who can afford to do them. It’s nice, but they lack sustainabil- don’t have money or cushions behind
ity, because they are operating with a very different business them. That’s what drives them to pro-
model, which isn’t based on the need to have it. It’s based on duce such good work. The motivation
the want to have it,” Shunmugam says. “It’s almost as if we for doing something comes from a very
can have this open farm restaurant because we already have raw place and we don’t have that here in
all these successful businesses, and so we can do it since we Singapore.”
have a bit of extra cash. That’s very different from someone The subject matter clearly invigo-
who makes a living out of that. A lot of the leather goods are, rates Shunmugam. Her fatigue drops
I would say, very entry level. They’re a good start, but I want away. This is clearly a pet topic. As I
more. My expectations are much higher, in the same way that gather my thoughts for our next inter-
I push this brand much higher. People may think that we’ve view session, which will take place dur-
92 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 C ot to n l ac e d r e ss by Sa n d ro.

ing her shoot for the photos that you see
on these pages, her comments about en-
trepreneurship being a privilege sticks
out in my mind. Isn’t she, too, a happy
product of privilege?
In a photo studio in Lorong Bakar Batu,

another light-industrial working-class
area far removed from the white-collar
districts, we begin the final session. Af-
ter greeting the crew, with whom she
is well acquainted, she settles into the
make-up seat and tells me why she’s
been forced to have separate phones:
the constant hounding and lack of re-
spect for her personal time on the part
of some unprofessional professionals.
But everyone wants a piece of some-
thing that actually works.
“If you look at my case, it’s really one
out of 10. If you look at 10 fashion de-
signers in Singapore, you will know ex-
actly what I mean. At the end of the day,
entrepreneurship is very much tied to
market forces. If you don’t have enough
capital, or have that network of people
who can open doors for you and make
things happen, you won’t make it. I see
that all the time, but I don’t think that it
is insurmountable.”
She adds, “On the one hand, it’s fair
to say that, yes, entrepreneurship in
the 21st century, especially in devel-
oped countries, is very much dependent
on privilege. But that’s not to say that
someone like me can’t beat the system
through a combination of determina-
tion, late nights and, of course, talent. If
you have a weak product, all the govern-
ment grants, connections and brown-
nosing will not count, and that is very
evident in the fashion industry.”

94 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 L ac e l i n g e r i e by H & M; p o ly e st e r s k i rt by Sa n d ro.
What about privilege in terms of social capital? her roots, and one can never forget that,
“Yeah for sure.” even amidst the bustle of daily work.
She values the ever-impermanent mo-
Wouldn’t that make you privileged in that sense? ments spent with them, and her other
“Me? If I’d remained in the legal industry, I would have defi- loved ones, without the sterile mediums
nitely benefitted from my years spent rubbing shoulders with of digital communication—though ironi-
the elite few. But the problem was, when I entered fashion, cally, she relates a story that is peripher-
suddenly everyone I met didn’t come from JC, and they didn’t ally about the digital.
like people who came from JCs. I found that nothing I had “My mum is going partially blind. SK-
learned in law school worked to my advantage, nothing at all. II was kind enough to pay for her flight
I had no social capital. I had to unlearn a lot of things. Like my to Hong Kong [Shunmugam’s story is
view of Singapore, which was very much determined by that part of the Japanese skincare company’s
group of people in law school. Suddenly, I was exposed to very global Change Destiny campaign], so she
different social strata, and the differences do exist. You cannot came with me. When we were in Hong
deny it. It’s just nice to be able to see both sides.” Kong, I bought her an iPad, because she
There’s something gleefully satisfying about ragging on the has to use a magnifying glass with her
ones who don’t quite get it. As she describes the way her law iPhone and it takes her a very long time
school friends reacted to her decision to switch careers, I am to see things. We got back to Singapore
tickled by the utter horror in their remarks. Shunmugam only on Tuesday night. On Wednesday, I had
attended Uni in Singapore and was spared the life of Junior so many things to do it was ridiculous,
Colleges. Despite that, she too was subjected to the brand- but I saw her sitting in the corner, trying
name judgments of people who’d gone through life categoris- to turn on her iPad. I had actually pro-
ing humanity based on the schools that they had the misfor- grammed her fingerprint and taught her
tune of ending up in. that she doesn’t need a password, but
Which raises the question of identity. Here, she is Malay- she kept pressing the home button any-
sian-born but Singapore-based, and a minority of mixed-par- way. And I’m like, ‘No, don’t press. Just
entage in both nations, but people consider her the Singapor- tap.’ But she couldn’t even get that.
ean designer who has made it. It’s perhaps a strange turn of “At that point, you can get frustrated
events, if we want to get pedantic about labels, but absolutely with your mum and say, ‘I just taught
fitting for one who wants to elevate the Southeast Asian dress. you that’, or drop everything and say,
And to work with it outside the purview of the West or the ‘Okay, I’m going to sit here and spend an
looming spectre of its fashion industry in determining what is hour teaching you how to use an iPad.’
of high taste and value in the global market. For me, I’ve reached that stage where
“Identity is very much defined by people themselves. It’s a I can make that decision very easily. I
fluid concept, which is why it constantly needs to be worked dropped everything and told the per-
on. This is also why I think what Ong Shunmugam does is son whom I was supposed to meet that I
important. If no one actually reclaims and pays attention to was going to be late. I just sat there and
these neglected aspects of our culture, then who defines it?” taught her how to use the iPad. That,
she says. “Do we wait for a Hollywood movie to show us what to me, is more important than anything
Asians are, based on stereotypes, or depend on Gucci to re- else. Five years ago, I wouldn’t have
work a cheongsam, and then put it on the cover of our maga- been able to make that choice. I would
zines and say that is what the cheongsam is in the 21st cen- have just run to my meeting and told my
tury? Because it is so fragile, identity is open to interpretation mum, ‘I’ll come back later.’ But now, I’m
in the same way that it is open to misinterpretation. Some of different. Now those things are more im-
us need to spend more time working that part out.” portant.”
Apropos then, for an industry that’s precisely calibrated on And so they are.
the identities that people carefully craft and try on for size or
discard with the ease of a few pieces of clothing.
As the interview draws to a close, she reflects on the mean- Identity is very much defined
ing of it all, the madness of a business that she loves but the as- by people themselves. it’s a
sociated curses that it can’t do without. The 24/7 on-the-ball fluid concept, which is why
nature of the job is tiring and while monetary success is grati- it constantly needs to be
fying—she concedes that it is important after having spent ex- worked on.
tremely lean years with very little of it—she treasures other
aspects of her life. For a bit, she considers the state when it is
all done, when there’s no more of this busyness and tells me
what is important, away from the glitz and the glamour that
loads of money can furnish you with.
At the heart of it, Shunmugam is a family woman. The sur-
names of her parents on the label reflect her love for them and
P h oto g r a p h e r ass i st e d by M a r i e L i a n g. St y l i st ass i st e d by J oy L i n g. M a k e- u p by L a r ry Y eo ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 95

u s i n g SK- II B e au t y. H a i r by Alv i n Fo h at M osc h e H a i r Sa lo n u s i n g R e d k e n.
The life cycle
of a trend
How the pocket square went from nowhere to somewhere
to everywhere (and not quite back again).
WORDS by Joshua David Stein
I
t usually goes something like cented suits and is now Chief Crea-
this: we’ll notice it first on a tive Director of Men’s Wearhouse,
stranger on the street, or a it has been a constant companion,
friend from work, or a movie never out of style and therefore
star or sports hero on a screen large never in style. And yet, most Amer-
or small. It’s a tie bar. It’s a fedora, ican men do not dress with the
a gingham shirt, a velvet blazer. care and consideration and high
An insignificant detail, yet we no- Sinatraism of Joseph Abboud. Not
tice it anyway. And once we notice, too long ago, most men wouldn’t
we’ll start seeing it more and more have been caught dead in a pocket
often on men who don’t look ter- square. And then, well . . .
rible wearing it. We’ll see what it’s “Whenever there’s a trend, we
doing for whoever’s wearing it— have a desire to see a patient zero,”
namely, unlumping him from the says Jonah Berger, a professor of
rest of us—and either we’ll choose marketing at the Wharton School
to ignore it (not us) or we’ll see it in and author of The New York Times
a store or on a website and think: best-seller Contagious: Why Things
why not us? It’ll feel strange the Catch On. “But individuals are of-
first time we wear it, but over time, ten less important than we might
it’ll feel natural before eventually think.” Instead, a trend requires
feeling inevitable. Then we’ll start suitable conditions to thrive: be-
wearing it less and less, deliber- fore there could be any pocket
ately or just because, until we stop squares, there had to be pockets
wearing it altogether. Wear will in which to put them. The late-90s
eventually become wore, and one and early ‘00s caught the tail end
day, we’ll come across pictures of of the chino wasteland that was
ourselves in it and we’ll think, a lit- business casual. Beginning rough-
tle sheepish, Christ! ly in 2003, a sizeable number of
It was a trend, and trends never men decided to start dressing up
last forever. again. (The collapse of Web 1.0
and the recession of 2001 turned
“h ow d i d t h e pocket square many professionals off the “oppo-
become a trend?” asks the legend- sitional cool” of dot-com culture,
ary 65 year old designer Joseph so they repaired to higher sartori-
Abboud. “It’s not a trend. A pocket al ground.) Sales of men’s tailored
square is an iconic piece of men’s clothing jumped 23.7 percent from
wear that has always finished a 2003 to 2004, setting off a decade
garment.” He has a point, to a point. of year-on-year growth and coin-
The pocket square, often cotton but ciding with when Google Trends
sometimes silk, often patterned but started tracking a rise in searches
just as often plain, has been part of for “pocket square.” Ariele Elia,
a man’s wardrobe since the days of co-curator of the Museum at the
Richard II. In earlier times, it was Fashion Institute of Technology’s
called other names, was tucked into 2013 exhibit Trend-ology, frames
different garments, meant some- this as the pocket square’s incuba-
thing else. And for men of a cer- tion period. “Trends don’t come
tain age, like Abboud, who built out of thin air,” she says. “And even
his namesake brand in the ’80s and though the earliest adopters ac-
’90s on the back of Neapolitan-account for just 2.5 percent of those

Clockwise, from top left: By Paul Stuart (SGD112*);
Ermenegildo Zegna (SGD139*); Brunello Cu-
cinelli (SGD231*); Canali (SGD175*); Ralph Lauren
(SGD203*); Kiton (SGD308*); and dunhill (SGD210*).

who’ll eventually participate in Men’s Fashion Director at Berg- S i x t y- f i v e s e c o n d s into the
the trend, they are among the most dorf Goodman, noticed that more second episode of Mad Men, with
influential.” and more of his customers were 1.04 million people watching, a
The earliest adopters weren’t forgoing ties altogether in favour of neatly folded white cotton pocket
forced to start wearing suits again a pocket square in toto, and he is- square appeared in a slate-grey suit
by some professional or social im- sued an edict as fashion people do: beneath the chiselled jaw of Don
perative—they opted to wear them, “Now that guys don’t have to wear Draper. What happened next was
and with options come opportu- ties, the pocket square has become a prime example of what Quartz
nities to personalise. And that’s the new tie.” calls the status instinct, in which
where the pocket square came in. “In order for a trend to func- ‘‘those belonging to lower status
In 2004, at stores like Bergdorf tion,” explains Steven Quartz, groups emulate those of higher
Goodman and Barneys, the pocket co-author of Cool: How the Brain’s status and seek to raise their own
square started doing a brisk trade Hidden Quest for Cool Drives Our status through emulation.” With
while the men’s market, respond- Economy and Shapes Our World, three million viewers tuning in
ing to the strident displays of pea- “others need to be able to under- every week and Mad Men quickly
cockery, raced to feed the best. stand the inconspicuous signals it ascending into the firmament of
(Both Tom Ford and Thom Browne sends. If the signal is not under- the Golden Age of Television, “eve-
launched menswear lines in the stood by those you wish to un- ry man wants to be Don,” says Bry-
mid-’00s with pocket squares a- derstand it, the trend won’t suc- ant. “They want to dress like him,
go-go.) In magazines, newspapers, ceed.” In other words, trends are eat like him, be with women like
and, beginning in 2005 with Scott language—or just noise if no one him.” And the answer was right
Schuman’s The Sartorialist, the speaks it. For the first few years there in his jacket pocket, at once
nascent world of street-style blogs, after the pocket square’s reemer- familiar and foreign.
the pocket square reemerged from gence in 2003, it was confined to “Trends are a social act,” ex-
obscurity. (The first post to appear the relatively moneyed, relatively plains Berger. “And men wore the
on The Sartorialist was, of course, few passing signals among them- pocket square because it signalled
of a man wearing a pocket square. selves. To the rest of us, it was all membership in a desirable group.”
So was the second.) Cathy Horyn, just so much noise, such that when Starting around 2007, that group
writing in The New York Times in a new television show premiered happened to be the men of Sterling
2005, dubbed these early adopters in 2007 on a cable network that Cooper. This was when sales of
“the new peacocks” and comment- nobody watched, the show’s cos- pocket squares peaked at Barneys;
ed on “those little pocket square tume designer, Janie Bryant, out- it’s when the pocket square start-
things that you see so many men fitted her hero in a pocket square ed to make regular, unremarkable
sporting but can never master.” despite her sense that “everyone appearances on red carpets and
Speaking to the Times around that thought pocket squares were just award shows (its unremarkable-
period, Michael Bastian, then the for grandpas.” ness a sign of its increasing regu-
larity); it’s when it reemerged on
James Bond’s person (in Quantum
of Solace) after a decade of mostly
A Brief History of Twenty-first Century Trends languishing in his top left-hand
Based on who’s been looking for what on Google since 2006 dresser drawer. Retailers of every
size and most sensibilities either
75 introduced them on their shelves
or ramped up their offerings to
meet the demand of the early ma-
• Fedora
• Cargo pants
jority, the 34 percent of trend adop-
• ters who hop on the bandwagon
Source: Google trends
Tie bar
• Pocket square while the wagon is still accelerat-
50
• Monk-strap shoes
Indexed Search Interest
ing. It then caught on with the late

majority (34 percent of trend par-
ticipants) and the late adopters (16
percent), and by 2010, the pocket
square had gone fully mainstream.
25
Cue the following from a writer
at this very periodical: “The fiz-
zle and pop of a pocket square
has gone flat, and the surest way
a man can show his independent-
0 mindedness—the very thing that
Jan. 2006 Jan. 2008 Jan. 2010 Jan. 2012 Jan. 2014 he once did with a pocket square—
is to go without one altogether.”
Year This happens with every trend: as

soon as it approaches ubiquity, as and purchase orders placed. It was Out of 37 issues, only
soon as it conveys I follow rather the finger on the scale in favour three cover stars have
than I lead, it becomes anathema of pocket squares. After all, says worn pocket squares
to the in crowd who adopted it. Bastian, formerly of Bergdorf, “as since Esquire Singapore
“High-status consumers intro- a buyer, one of your jobs is to know was launched.
duce a new taste, people of lower what is going on online and keep
status emulate them,” Quartz that in mind when deciding what
writes in Cool. “Higher-status to put on the floor.” So the pocket
people then abandon the taste be- square issued forth from Florence
cause it’s become popular among to stores the US, again.
the lower status, and the next cy- But abandonment, once de-
cle of imitation-abandonment be- ferred, could not be deterred in-
gins.” All trends must die, valar definitely, at least among the high
morghulis. status. In 2012, Billy Reid, the
However, something and a Alabama-based designer who once
whole lot of someones came along boasted a collection of squares
to disrupt the natural death of 500-some-odd strong, stopped
the pocket-square trend: Tumblr, wearing his. “I don’t know why I
the blogging platform and social stopped,” he admits now. “Prob-
network that fuelled an explo- ably because they were so popular
sion in street-style coverage that in my shop.” Schlossman decided November 2012
often came marked with a simple to forgo his, too. “One day, I just
hashtag: #menswear. Whereas didn’t feel like putting on all that
earlier style blogs, like Schuman’s, stuff. It just felt over,” he says. “The
were tightly controlled cults of -up thing is you have these
personality, Tumblr’s anything- guys being told their Red Wings
goes functionality opened the or their dub monks or their pocket
floodgates for pictures of an im- squares are classics that will never
peccably groomed gentleman with go out of style. But of course, they
a soft-shouldered blazer, perhaps a will. Everything does.”
scarf artfully draped underneath, No trend lasts forever. But
double-monk-strap loafers on his before we write the obituary of
feet, and an erupting piece of cloth pocket squares and dab our tears
in his pocket. The #menswear with . . . well, what exactly? con-
man was frequently photographed sider this: they have never been
at fashion-industry events, none more popular with mass retailers.
more prominent than Pitti Uomo, Men’s Wearhouse saw a 50 per-
a biannual convention that retail- cent increase in sales of pocket April 2013
ers and designers have attended squares in the past five years, even
with relatively little scrutiny since after seeing declines in fashion-
1972. Once the modern-day Rob- forward markets like California
ert Franks showed up and started and New York. And Jorge Valls,
posting their photographs on Men’s Fashion Director at Nord-
Tumblr, the early adopters who’d strom, says, “Pocket squares have
been this close to giving up the been growing for us in the past
pocket square were back on the couple of seasons.” It took 12 years,
horse. “As soon as the Pitti look but pocket squares have become a
became street fashion,” explains permanent part of the American
Lawrence Schlossman, the Editor- vernacular—beyond trending and
in-Chief of menswear blog Four beyond the reproach of those who
Pins and co-creator of Yeah purport to traffic in them. “We’ve
Menswear, a seminal Tumblr feed cycled through minimalism and
from the time, “the pocket square athleisure and who knows what
exploded.’’ else [since pocket squares],” says
As editors, buyers and blog- Schlossman. “Now Kanye wears October 2015
gers converged in Florence, gazing something, it gets posted on In-
at one another in the convention stagram, and it’s a trend for two
centre, pocket square begat pocket months.” Which is all good for Mr
square. Perhaps the transmission West.
would have ended there, but Pitti For the rest of us, we have
was and still is a working trade pocket squares to wear as we see
show, in which tastes are gauged fit, and that is enough.
* D E N OT E S T R A N S L AT E D P R I C E S. ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 99

This page
Looks from the Alfred
Dunhill AW15 collection by
John Ray, featuring exclusive
fabrics by British mills in
tweed and herringbone.

T h e s t e w a r d
one hundred and twenty years is a long time to build a heritage, and john ray,
creative director of alfred dunhill, isn’t about to muck with it.
Words by Janie Cai

“I was thrown out,” fastenings, the only other hue aside from black
and navy that can be found on his person. The
John Ray guffaws loudly at the memory, “for being man who was once thrown out of the riotous (and
drunk! Me! Can you imagine…” He is recounting to sadly, now shuttered) Colony Room—where an
us his first and last visit to the infamous members- array of artists, politicians and the dissolute once
only Colony Room. There’s an indignant whistle mingled within the confines of its torrid green
of air through pursed lips, but you sense the walls, all suitably inebriated—is decked out in
shimmering veneer of pride beneath the Scot’s dunhill. But that’s not the immediate thing you
mock-displeasure. He is, after all, somewhat of notice about John Ray when you meet him for
an oxymoron. He may be from Dundee, but he the first time; instead, it is simply this: what a cool
has Britishness honed down to a fine art, and his dude.
cheerful exuberance puts you at ease immediately. As a designer, Ray is a bit of a mystery. He has
He also personifies dunhill (yes, it’s spelt with been around for a significant amount of time, and
a small “d” due to a rather ouroboros exercise was at brands such as Katharine Hamnett, and
in copyright and branding) right down to his more recently, Gucci. He stayed at the Italian label
navy suspenders. Sporting a pair of half-frames for a decade, starting under Tom Ford, and worked
and rakish, quicksilver hair, he brings to mind a his way up from Creative Consultant to Creative
roguish history professor. His dark blue chambray Director for Menswear, but resigned in 2006. Ray
shirt is left unbuttoned at the top, but restrained then spent the next six years out of range of the
by the pair of aforementioned suspenders, which scrying eye of the fashion world before dunhill
in turn are trimmed with white leather button came a-calling. And so far, it seems like the stars

have aligned. There’s perhaps a touch of irony
that under the cheerful Dundonian’s stewardship,
the British heritage label has never been more,
well, British. The current AW15 collection
distils the essence of formal tailoring without
descending into monotony or insipidness. It’s a
wholly believable ensemble of looks that, in Ray’s
words, “(is) loosely based on all that creativity
of Soho life in the ’50s. It was a place where you
had writers, musicians, playwrights, filmmakers,
painters, all coming together… It was full of strip
clubs and MPs and politicians, the whole mix…” In
that sense, it is British to the core—where beneath
stiff upper lips, mouths quiver with a smile over
an inside joke, and usually, a dirty one at that.
“What I was trying to get from this runway
show was that feeling of slight quirkiness, slight
individuality, because if you look at men—and I
love looking at men on the street—they do look
like that. With some of them you think, you sure
about that tie? But it works, because of their
character. Or you’re like, really, those socks? You
have socks with Disney characters on them! But
why not, eh? If everyone were the same, how dull
would that be?” That’s the gist of Ray’s genius: his
acknowledgement of the individual, even in the
midst of trying to sell ready-to-wear. At the same
time, you get the feeling that dunhill is finally in
the hands of a designer who isn’t trying to make it
something else, and rightly so. Ray may hail from
the windswept, seaside town of Dundee, and he
may have spent most of his design years in Milan
under Gucci, but there’s no doubt that he knows
what he’s doing when designing for a brand that
was born in the heart of London. “The thing
“men look about coming from a small town is that if you’re
keen in any way, it makes you even hungrier, so
best when you’ve really got to get out,” he says. “I wanted
to see more things. I wanted to see this different
they are life.” Ray’s creative vision is honed by a keen and
traditional, ”
focused perspective, and it’s easy to see how his
collections for dunhill have gone from strength to
strength without the need for hype or hyperbole.
says john ray, creative
director of alfred dunhill. For Alfred Dunhill’s AW15 collection, Ray
indeed, his collection centres has borrowed the paintbrush of the late Francis
on the inimitable spirit of the Bacon. Art by the honorary first member of the
british gentleman, his charm,
Colony Club was present at the runway show,
wit and quirks.
which was held at the new Phillips Gallery in
London. Very much in evidence was the artist’s
“we are a palette of burnt umber, burgundy and varying
heritage brand shades of ochre and brown, with a stick of

charcoal thrown in for good measure. The raffish
with its roots combination of herringbone jackets worn over
striped rugby shirts and corduroy trousers in
in maturity, mustard and taupe deferred to Bacon’s style as
well as that of his contemporaries—artists Lucien
but we can Freud and Michael Andrews. The collection
featured the kind of clothes that you could pull
play around on, and then amble out to pick up the paper, or
head to work, or have a drink—or do all three in.
with that.” The thing about fashion is that there’s so much
of it, and a large part of that crusted pie may not

actually appeal to the average man, whose idea of
dressing up consists mainly of putting on a pair
of clean slacks. Finding someone who designs
clothes that a man would actually want to wear,
the kind you put on, and then can forget about,
assured in the knowledge that you still look good,
is a rarity.
From chalk-striped wool trousers to fuzzy
cable-knit pullovers in sienna and maroon, checks
dominated the pattern roster, manifesting in
work-shirts and weaving their way through both
suiting and sturdy overcoats, before appearing
on a belted field jacket. The overall palette may
have been somewhat sombre, but Ray delved into
the realm of texture with deftness and finesse.
He played up fabrics, the luxurious heart of the
collection, pairing knits with woollen overcoats
and corduroy with cashmere. His clothes were
about hand-feel and Ray revelled in the details.
Knits were in mohair and silk, sometimes alpaca,
while the rugby shirts were constructed from fine
cashmere and a motoring jacket from silk. He looks good. It’s the same louche style of dressing
didn’t neglect the tailored aspect of British style that the bohemian artists of Soho channelled in
either, and the five final looks were odes to this their everyday attired, the same devil-may-care
sartorial tradition. A grey wool and silk checked attitude projected by British businessmen in their
suit with beautiful rolled lapels caught our eye, worsted navy suits and their red cotton socks.
along with single-pleat trousers that felt just right. It’s Britishness through and through and Ray has
The final model walked out with his suit jacket managed to capture it splendidly.
slung loosely over his arm, a visual punctuation That’s the essence of British style: it’s a
that seemed to convey the quiet satisfaction of a quiet confidence that doesn’t shout as much as
job well done. suggest in a most persuasive manner. Subtlety
With Ray, it is the individuality of each man and proper manners are paramount, but there’s
that makes an outfit interesting. “When I see always a suggestion of more than meets the
a man, I want to see the face, I want to see the eye somewhere. With the AW15 Alfred Dunhill
character, and I want to see the personality. When collection, Ray leaves the individual to interpret
I see a suit, I’m a bit like, hmm, that’s not working; the look for himself while providing him with
it’s too powerful. When I have lunch or dinner foolproof pieces to throw together as they fancy.
with somebody, there’ll be somebody who’s well I suggest to Ray that it’s almost like a peek into
dressed, and then there’ll be somebody who is less what they are, behind the façade of what a suit
well put together,” he says. “But actually, the one template is. “Exactly,” he replies. “And there’s
who is less put together may be more interesting only a few places they can show it, so maybe the
to talk to. It’s not about intelligence or spending tie, maybe the socks. Maybe the glasses. That’s
all day getting dressed.” He pauses for a bit, then all.”
adds, “I shouldn’t really say that. [guffaws] I’m Individuality manifests itself when men are
trying to sell clothes.” Ray is likeable because expected to be the same and clothes are the canvas
he’s real. His designs are equally unpretentious, upon which personality projects itself, rather
even the silk pyjamas sent down the runway with than being overwhelmed by the need to conform.
a fur coat thrown insouciantly over the model’s For dunhill’s Creative Director, the tradition of
shoulders is framed matter-of-factly. English school uniforms was a great source of
“I like layering. I like the fact that you must go inspiration this season. “When you’re forced to
out, so you grab (that). You don’t really think about wear a uniform, you always try to do something
it too much. You just go out and kind of look cool. different with it,” he says. “In my school, we used
Like pyjamas, for me; you get up in the morning—I to have school macs with epaulettes, and what my
don’t wear pyjamas, by the way [laughs]—and it’s friend and I would do was put our scarf through
cold so you put on a jumper. Then you think, oh the epaulettes. That was our little twist, even
sugar, I’ve got no milk; let’s go get some milk. So though all the boys were probably thinking, ‘Look
what do you do? You grab a fur coat. People see at those idiots…’”
you, but you don’t care, because it’s six o’clock As he speaks, a slow glimmer of mischief
in the morning and you want a cup of tea.” In suddenly flickers across his face and he laughs as
Ray’s world, a real man doesn’t bother too much he says, “Ah, I missed a trick! Dammit, next season…
about looking immaculate all the time, but he still I may start the show like that next time.”

fiction
Junk
Words by Vinita Ramani Edited by Amanda Lee Koe
T h e m a n ’ s f a c e w a s m a d e of three shards of of copper and amber glass from broken traffic stop signs. He
glass, two pieces of clay from a water pot and a tap. The tap worked at night with one flickering kerosene lamp.
was, of course, the nose. But it was too pronounced for an Nobody noticed the mountain of junk dwindling.
Indian nose; even a Punjabi nose. So Nek sawed off the tip The land was near the state-owned Kansal ki Khol
to make it shorter and used a thin sliver of copper to make reserve in the city of Chandigarh, Punjab. There wasn’t a
the septum. Now, the man had nostrils. Nek didn’t discard soul around for miles and no proper roads leading in or out.
anything. He used the rusting spout for the mouth. Nek made a hut with a thatched roof and began living there.
His head was transparent and at a certain angle, the skull Meanwhile, government officials were busy creating a new
looked like it was full of leaves, the branches of distant trees capital for the state of Punjab. Until the 14th of August 1947
curving and drooping where his brain might have been. He Punjab’s capital was Lahore. The next day, Lahore became
had flushed cheeks (that was the clay) and black tile eyes the capital city of a new country—Pakistan. Punjab had to
partially veiled by drooping aluminum lids. Nek made a reinvent itself.
sleeveless jacket with a Nehru collar for the man. The jacket Nek tried not to think about that day.
had been no mean feat. It was a mosaic of pottery, glass and Eventually, they made him the local roads inspector.
tile pieces. Nek had squatted on his haunches, hammer in “Inspector…” Nek thought, as he gathered another bag of
hand, gently breaking the slabs into smaller and smaller wires and broken bricks to put into the makeshift panniers
pieces. Then he began fitting the disparate fragments slung on either side of his bicycle. It was a grandiose title
together. The jacket took over a month to finish. By the for a mindless job.
end of it, Nek’s palms were covered with cuts, but the man He’d finished a fat cockerel that looked like a pterodactyl,
looked handsome, even regal. a tribal procession like the ones he’d seen in his village
Nek placed him on a hillock in the large garden where he growing up and a perforated montage of sockets when
stood like a zamindar with an advantageous view of finished Punjab was sliced again. There had been no war preceding
and half-finished sculptures, hoses lazily sputtering water it, but still, Nek imagined Chandigarh quivering. The city
into miniature water fountains. Because Nek had used the sat on the border of Punjab and the newly named state of
spout to make the man’s mouth, he had a curious expression Haryana. He worried for the city and for his garden. Instead,
on his face, like a languorous landlord who has suddenly it became union territory, the capital city of both states.
spotted something amiss on his vast territory, his mouth Sighing in relief, Nek made birds that bathed at an
making an “O” in surprise. artificial waterfall. He fell asleep at night listening to the
He was not the first man, not even the first sculpture in cascade, massaging his arthritic fingers and thanked Sukhna
Nek’s twenty-acre garden. There was a world here, which Lake for providing him with the water.
he’d been creating piece by piece for eighteen years. Nek
followed the man’s glassy gaze and chuckled. “He probably Ninety-year old Nek stands in the garden, almost blind.
saw the monkey panchayat council,” Nek said out loud to no But he can hear the waterfall and fountains. They remind
one. In that part of the garden, about twenty monkeys sat him of the fast-flowing river in the village he grew up in. He
straight-backed, tails up, arms balanced on bent knees with had never been back and he knew he would never return.
benign expressions on their faces. Somewhere in the garden, grey and white tile people
Behind the man on the hill, a bevy of brown tile-and- adorned in multi-coloured tile hats march grim faced with
glass children leapt holding hands, their upturned heads military precision. It could be a procession or a marching
glinting in the midday sun. band. Their arms are positioned in a ninety-degree angle
and the hands are empty. It is as if they are adopting a
In 1947, heaving, bloody births led to the creation of Pakistan defensive posture against an impending mob coming from
and Bangladesh. Nek was twenty-three years old when the the opposite direction.
family fled across the border, Hindus no longer accepted In their midst, Nek has placed a horse. It’s a riotous mix
in Muslim-majority Pakistan. But whenever Nek thought of yellow, green, blue, red and white tiles. Its neck is arched
of the partition, he just saw vast piles of junk—cement, and its eyes are half-closed as if it is about to trot or dance.
rock, glass, tile, metal, wires, sockets, bangles and bicycle Unlike the surging platoon moving towards an unknown
frames—the detritus left behind in the aftermath. landscape beyond the gardens, the horse faces the forest.
He cycled every night to haul as much as he could back Nek can’t see it anymore, but he knows how the horse
to a clearing near Sukhna Lake overlooking a dense forest. feels. There wasn’t anywhere he longed to return to,
There in the darkness, he imagined gods with bicycle chain nowhere new he wished to go. When he hears the waterfalls
garlands and metal arms. He saw porcelain men at a party and touches the rough edges and rounded shapes of his
pouring whiskey, which he knew he could make with swirls sculptures, he knows he belongs.

Below Severin Mouyengo, who has been a sapeur since the seventies, poses at
the entrance of his home in the Bacongo neighborhood. Sandals on the ground
are from his family members. In Congo, as in other parts of Africa, people
commonly take the shoes off before entering home. Below right The sapeur
Bienvenu Mouzieto poses in front of his house in the Bacongo neighborhood.
46.5 percent of Congolese live at or below the national poverty line, and yet,
there are some men who are determined to dress with exquisite style, even inside
the squalor of the capital, Brazzaville. They call themselves sapeurs, members
of the Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes (The Society of
Tastemakers and Elegant People). Spanish photographer Héctor Mediavilla has
been documenting the SAPE since 2003 and he explains: “At the beginning of the
20th century, when the French arrived in Congo, the myth of Parisian elegance
was born among the youth of the Bakongo ethnic group.” Some might think they
are merely copying the former colonial masters, but the sapeurs have a saying:
“White people invented the clothes, but we make an art of it.”

Repu bl ic of st yle

Left Severin Mouyengo is about to cross Avenue Matsoua,
the historical avenue of the Bacongo neighbourhood that used
to be the only runway of the first Congolese airport.
Above The sapeur Yves François Ngatsongo, also known as Yves Saint
Laurent, is the president and founder of the France Libre association.
He walks up the stairs of the building where he lives in downtown.
This and other buildings, damaged by the combats of the last civil war,
1997-2001, have been squatted in mainly by Northern people related
to the army.

1 2
3 4
1 Despite working as a policeman and having been critisied by his superiors, 3 The sapeur Delagrace, also known as the icon of beautiful colours, in and
Ferolle Nguaby loves being a sapeur. He poses with his only sister in front of out of his rented room.
his family house, where he lives with his parents, his sister and some brothers. 4 Zenga Zenga and Aboubakar Massamba show off in front of the boutique
He is part of the Piccadilly group, which is the most innovative in the country. where they work as marketing agents. They are old sapeurs and make some
2 Basseka Kandza, a sapeur who was very active during his youth in the ‘70s, extra money with this part-time job. They give out flyers of La Sapologie
poses with his dog at the entrance of his house. boutique in the city centre.

Top Willy Covari, one of the most admired sapeurs of the Bacongo Above Stephane Mouzieto is followed by some children when he walks on
neighbourhood, walks with his two children in his plot. an unpaved street in the Bacongo neighbourhood. He imitates his uncle,
the famous KVV Mouzieto, a grand sapeur who lives in Paris. He also wears
an eye patch like his uncle.

manual
—
For a stylish life
The skills, tips and knowledge every man requires to look and be his best.
Mosquito-proof your life

Natural Good lemon-eucalyptus sprays are
EPA-approved and repel mosquitoes for up to six hours.
Spray Choose an insect repellent that actually

feels dry, isn’t greasy on the skin and smells clean.
Behaviour Exercise indoors. Mosquitoes are drawn to

lactic acid and carbon dioxide from your breath, both of which
you produce more of when you exercise.
High-tech Ultrasonic devices don’t work at all, and though traditional

blacklight bug-zappers do kill lots of bugs, many bugs are food for
friendly predators, and only a small percentage are mosquitoes.
Low-tech A fan. The breeze disperses carbon dioxide,

throwing them off your course, and since they’re weak flyers,
the current can render them unable to land on you.
i l lustr ati o n by peter o um a n s k i . ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 115

It’s a swamp thing
American author and naturalist Henry David Thoreau once wrote, “If it were proposed to me to dwell in the neighbourhood
of the most beautiful garden that ever human art contrived, or else of a dismal swamp, I should certainly decide for the
swamp.” He might have been onto something. Thanks to Herman Bernard, zoologist at the Singapore National Zoo.
Types of swamps
Freshwater Peat
This is the most common type of swamp. Rain hits the ground, creating Peat swamps contain an accumulation of all debris—leaves, branches,
a depression near rivers that traps sediment coming from higher ground. rocks and soil—from higher ground, creating a pitch black, acidic peat
Good examples of freshwater swamps are Tasik Bera in Pahang and low- soup. Beware: its flat terrain means you—yes, you with the poor sense of
lying areas of Kinabatangan in Sabah. direction—will get lost easily. Peats can be found in North Selangor,
Sarawak, Johor and Kalimantan.
Leave those swamps alone

It’s a peat soup for a reason—swamps are one of Mother Nature’s ways
of resupplying the food chain and cleaning up our man-made mess.
So wipe those thoughts of condo development or farm expansion and
vamoose, you earth killer, you.
Hatcheries Humid air and slow-moving waters make swamps an ideal

environment for river creatures to breed, when high tide sweeps them
into the swamps.
Filter system Swamps trap sediment from higher ground, preventing

erosion. Water that passes through swamps before entering the sea is
also cleansed of pollutants and debris.
Flood buffer Like a sponge, swamps absorb large volumes of water.

Mangrove swamps have been known to serve as a buffer, reducing
flood damage to coastal villages.
Lost? Find your bearings
Freshwater swamps flow from high ground to low ground—figure out

the direction that will take you upwards and head for dry land.
Peat swamps are the hardest to navigate—dark, flat and after awhile,
everything starts to look the same. Best to know your location before
starting your trek, and leave markers along the way. Otherwise, pray.
Mangrove
Mangrove swamps are marked by sandy soil that morphs into a mud
Mangroves are located mainly along the western coastal areas of
flat made up of a sticky and sludgy grey soil, located right where sea
Peninsular Malaysia—their trees can be found soaking their long and
meets land. Turn back before you hit the mud flat, if you don’t want to
knobbly roots in brackish waters. Mangrove swamps have muddy, sludgy
get sucked in.
earth that will suck you in—fast—if you aren’t paying attention.
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Stuck in mud: how to extricate yourself
Branches/planks
to the rescue
Human chain
Keep calm, float up

and wade to shore
Tree today, Avicennia Rhizophora

utilitarian • Furniture • Floorboards
tomorrow • Boats • Paper
Still not convinced • Construction • Alcohol
swamps are all that material (from the fruit)
important to us? Look
• Firewood • Red dye
at the stuff you can
(for tanning
make out of swamp Bruguiera
leather)
trees. Harvested
• Fishing rods
responsibly, of course.
• Fishing nets
• Firewood
• Charcoal
Some creatures that you will meet in a swamp
Mudskipper: A good source of food—if you know Fiddler crab: Easily recognisable for their Long-tailed macaque: Also known as
how to find and catch them. asymmetrical claws and tippy-toe mating dance crab-eating macaques.
ritual. Look for them near holes in the sand.
Small-clawed otter: They look as cute

as your Chihuahua, but stay away; if they Silver-leaf monkey: Easily recognisable
don’t like your face, they might just take it for their silver-tipped black fur. Extra clever
And the one that you don’t want to
off—with sharp teeth. at hiding amidst branches.
meet.
A d d iti o n a l facts t h a n ks to A be l Ne lso n Na n g o f B er jaya H ote ls a n d R eso rts. ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 117
Take your futsal to the next level
Five-on-five football has been great to all of us lovers of The Beautiful Game, especially if we’re too old (or fat) for 11-a-side
matches on full-sized pitches. But we know you sometimes embarrass—or injure—yourselves during a friendly kickabout with
your workmates. So we spoke to a professional trainer, a sports nutritionist and, of course, international footballers, on how
you can be the Cristiano, the Neymar, the Zlatan of your futsal centre. Joga bonito!
Fuel up for futsal

With Cheryl Teo, associate sports dietician at the Singapore Sports Institute.
What to eat before your match What to eat after your match
Very simply: carbs. “Fill up your ‘petrol tank’ with carbohydrates,” Try to have a recovery meal within an hour of playing your guts out.
Teo says. “I recommend something that is low in fat and fibre, as they Teo recommends low-fat chocolate milk (no, really) to replace lost carbs,
both can slow down digestion. You could go for a slice of raisin bread protein, fluids and electrolytes. Even chicken rice is a good choice—low fat,
with jam, as it’s packed with easily digestible carbs—rather than a curry low in oil, and with a side of vegetables and fruit, of course.
puff.” You could also go for a banana, a serving of low-fat yogurt or a
small bowl of oatmeal. Eat no more than 30 minutes before you start To cut down on the fat even more, remove the fat and the skin from the
warming up. chicken, Teo recommends. Then, blanch or stir-fry your favourite green leafy
vegetables—such as kai lan or spinach—and have some fruit later. But if you’re
not the cooking type, you still have no excuse. “If you’re eating out, replace
the flavoured chicken rice with plain white rice, and request for more veggies,”
Teo says. “End the meal by buying fruit, not a sweetened drink or dessert.”
How to make your own recovery meal: granola balls

“When you exercise, your muscles undergo some form of load. So there might be some
muscle tears, which means you need to eat protein for muscle repair,” Teo says. And here’s
her recipe for the perfect recovery snack—granola balls. Soccer mums, eat your heart out.
Ingredients
• 1 cup roasted unsalted nuts of choice, pounded
• 1 cup rolled oats
• ½ cup Rice Krispies
• ¼ cup raisins
• ¼ cup honey
• 5 tbsp smooth peanut butter
Method
1. Combine raisins, nuts, Rice Krispies and rolled oats in a mixing bowl. Set aside.
2. Add honey and peanut butter to the dry ingredients and mix well with a spatula.
The mixture should be sticky.
3. Roll the mixture into ping pong-sized balls. Serve or pack as a snack. Can be stored
in the freezer for up to a month. Makes 16 ping pong-sized balls at around 30g each.
Pick the right shoe for your style of play
Nike HypervenomX Nike MercurialX Nike MagistaX

As worn by: Wayne Rooney, Neymar Jr As worn by: Cristiano Ronaldo, Franck Ribéry As worn by: Andrés Iniesta, Mario Götze
Features: Enhanced mesh upper, with additional Features: Low-profile Phylon cushioning. Features: Responsive Lunarlon midsole for
siping for enhanced touch. Pro tip: “Lightweight. For wingers or fast players,” more cushioning.
Pro tip: “It’s more compact and comfortable. Suhaimi says. Pro tip: “Its shape is strong, so it’s good for
It sticks to your feet,” Suhaimi says. defenders or players who don’t need speed,”
Thawikan says.
118 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 Wo r ds by E ugene P h ua . I l lustr ati o ns by Lipwei .

Defend, attack and score like the pros
With Sahil Suhaimi, Singaporean international striker and 2015 FA Cup winner; and Kroekrit Thawikan,
Thailand international winger and 2014 AFF Suzuki Cup winner.
How to defend How to attack

i. All five players must defend. “Every player has to have discipline, and focus i. Keep on moving, regardless if you have the ball or not. “When you play
on his position,” Thawikan says. “Control your area and mark your man.” five-on-five, it gets very cramped,” Suhaimi says. “So keep on moving to
ii. Stay cool when man-marking. “Calm down,” Thawikan advises. “Focus on create space or chances for your teammates. Even if you don’t get the
the ball, don’t be too quick to make your move.” ball, it’s okay, because you’re trying to drag opposing defenders out of
position. So keep on moving!”
iii. Watch your positioning. Come up with a defensive plan as a team, and
remember your role. “And you have to pass the ball quickly,” Thawikan says, ii. Pick your passes with precision. “You and your teammates have to have
to bolster your defence further. “If you can improve this aspect, it will even killer passing,” Thawikan says. “If you try too hard, it’ll be difficult to score.
help when you play in an 11-a-side game.” So pass the ball a lot and try to make it easier for a teammate to score.”
iv. Just accept it if you’re the goalkeeper. Rare is the person who volunteers to iii. Plan ahead. “When I’m about to receive the ball, I’m already thinking
be the goalie, so if you’re forced in-between the posts, just do it. “It’s all about about what I’m going to do next—pass it, dribble or shoot,” Suhaimi says.
heart,” Thawikan says. “He has to love what he’s doing, because he has to “So that, as soon as I get the ball, I already know what to do, and I do it.”
defend and protect the ball. And be crazy!”
How to control the ball How to score

i. Don’t showboat in the wrong places. “If you’re in your own half, don’t i. Go with your instincts. “If you can shoot early, just shoot early,”
dribble! Especially in front of your own goal,” Suhaimi warns. “You can do your Suhaimi says.
tricks when you’re in your opponent’s half, because even if you lose the ball, ii. Use your eyes. “Always watch where their goalie is,” Suhaimi coaches.
your teammates will cover for you.” “You don’t need to whack the ball as hard as you can all the time. Catch
ii. Control the ball with a step (or two). “To control the ball, just step on it and the keeper off-guard, place it where you want it in goal, and have a go.”
start looking ahead,” Suhaimi advises. “It gets the ball dead; you’ll know the iii. Be on your toes. “The toe poke is the strongest and the easiest kind of
ball is at the bottom of your foot; and it’s easier for you to play on from there. kick you can do,” Suhaimi says. “It’s much faster than other kinds of kicks,
With your foot on the ball, you can ‘pull’ the ball wherever you like, rather than and the ball travels a little differently—like a knuckle ball. For the best toe
trying to turn here and there, in and out.” poke, run straight at the ball and kick right at its centre.”
iii. Put your whole body into it. “Shield the ball with your body,” Suhai instructs.
“Your opponent must be behind you. Step on the ball and stay wide. Try to grab
onto his body, if you can, so that you know where he is. This is especially useful
when you’re in the corner, and space is even tighter. He might just kick the ball
out, which gives you a chance to start again.”

The big sleep easy
You’re having a hard time, tossing and turning, and counting sheep that you will never see. Until you realise enough is enough,
the rest of your life shouldn’t have to suffer just because you still sleep on a lumpy and stained mattress. Time to change it up
with these tips from Steve Church, Group Furniture Director of Courts in Singapore.
Mattress buying tips
1. Don’t go hard. “I’ve been in Asia for 23 years.

Every mattress that I try in different parts of
Asia tends to be very hard, if it’s from the local
market. But it’s not necessarily stronger. In fact,
it’s probably weaker because there’s foam beneath
the cover of older, open-coil mattresses, and that’s
it. Those levels of foam and cover do all the work.
It wears them out pretty quickly because they’re
cutting against the spring. The bonnell unit—if it’s a
hard one—gets a lot of metal fatigue. It doesn’t last
as long. So it’s an old mindset that hard mattresses
are good for you,” says Church.
2. Build up your comfort level. Use a mattress

topper. But don’t confuse it with a mattress pad—
which protects from stains and moisture.
3. But the base still matters. “It doesn’t change

the support too much because it adds a touch
more comfort to the spring. So the support
underneath is still due to these guys,” says Church.
4. Don’t shop when you’re tired. Like the advice

for grocery shopping, don’t look for a mattress
when you most need one. You’ll pick anything
and be less discerning. Sort of like the 2am beer
goggles zone.
5. Skip the couple mattress. As in the ones

advertised as having two sides that cater to each
mattress preference. “That’s quite expensive. So
if you want to go down that road, what we usually
recommend is a queen- or king-sized bedframe
and two single mattresses,” advises Church.
6. Ticking game. Ticking is the name for the

mattress fabric. You can move from basic polyester
to luxe damask, but they’re all anti-dust mites
these days.
7. For the kids. Don’t buy cheap because their

developing spines need all the support that they
can get.
8. Pillow talk. Always try your mattress with

pillows and it’s best if you buy them together,
too. Skip “cheap, nasty fibre pillows” and pick
feather instead. “Feathers are like a pool around
me. Fibre is still one piece. Feather gives more.
I can bend it any way I want—it’s not fighting
me like a latex one would. If I try to fold it when I
watch TV, it’ll forever be fighting me to get back
right,” Church demonstrates.
Pocket sprung vs open spring/open coil

Spring? Sprung? Here’s a quick and dirty look at the insides of a mattress, or you could slash your old one, just to be sure.
A) Pocket sprung B) Open spring/open coil

Looking at the picture, you can see that each individual spring is pocketed. “It’s We test the next type of mattress. And we keep at it until we are hauled
a bit more specific, so they work more independently. Therefore, the mattress away by security. “Yeah, it’s bouncy because the springs are linked together.
supports you, especially the heavier points of your body, more readily,” says If I were to put some body weight on it, it pulls down the group of springs
Church. To test, we cannonball onto the mattress and sink in as we land. “If that around it, so it doesn’t give you total support. All the springs will go down
goes down, everything else comes down with you; it’ll dip around your body. with you. It’s more of an entry to mid-range product,” concludes Church.
The pocket sprung is a bit more expensive. Companies like Simmons, Sealy and
Slumberland each have their own slight tweaks,” he continues.
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Getting properly comfy
It’s all in the test drive, lads—especially when it comes to the one thing that’ll make your life better: sleep. So here’s what you do.
Get comfy. “When you try a mattress, make sure Make sure it’s comfy. “The closer the mattress Now get reeeally comfy. Just to be sure, lie
that you get the same number of pillows under feels to your back and the smaller the space down for three to five minutes. Or longer.
your head as you would at home.” This can be you between your back—the top of your hips and the “People suffer from back pain because
watching TV, lying on your side or on your face— area across your shoulders—from the mattress they don’t pick a mattress that comes up to
get as close to whatever position you’ll end up in the better. A pocket-sprung unit allows the support the small of their back. If your back’s
for most of the night. mattress to come up to bridge the small of your floating in the air, it’s not gonna do you any
back because it works more independently than good at all.” And what better way to determine
an open-coil unit. In an open-coil unit, more this than to just lie there.
springs go down, probably a six-foot radius from
where you’re touching it because it’s pulling down
its neighbours as well.”
Care and maintenance

Tog rating
A tog rating refers to the heat measure or Average lifespan: 10 years.
how much heat the quilt, the duvet or the
Point of no return: When the mattress starts to have an indentation of your body.
comforter will retain. The lower the rating,
the less snuggly (and in hot weather, the Bounciness: Jumping on beds will not necessarily deteriorate the mattress. But if you keep at it for
less trapped) you will feel. months on end, it will.
1-2: Best for these climes, if you sleep Cleaning: “You can buy a mattress vacuum, but it’s easier to use the attachment to your vacuum
using a fan only or au naturel. and just vacuum it off.”
3-4: Lightweight summer quilt in Europe. Airing: Airing it out is fine, but removing the bed linen, and then vacuuming it, is the best way to
Or air-conditioned Southeast Asia. suck up dust particles.
Moist mattresses: Strip off the bed linen and let it breathe. Always have a mattress protector. It’s
10-11: If you sleep in an air-conditioned
not just the black light that sees things. “Nothing’s more embarrassing than not using a mattress
room that’s attempting to emulate
protector, especially when you move house. When your mattress is taken down the lift, the marks
tundras.
and the stains will be there for the world to see! It’s best to get a mattress protector to avoid that,
especially if you spend a lot of money on a mattress,” says Church, grinning.

The Esquire motorcycle hall of fame
Six ways to have a ton of fun on two wheels.
Indian Chief BMW R60/2

Indian’s 1940 Chief introduced the large skirted fenders that would During the ‘60s, the R60/2 was the most popular BMW in the US The bike
become an Indian signature, as well as a new sprung frame that many is best known for its smooth engine output and stamina. It’s a favourite
considered better than that of its rival, Harley-Davidson. The current with long-distance touring riders, like Danny Liska, who rode his from
version still maintains the classic features of that model—the valenced Alaska to Argentina and documented the trip in his book Two Wheels
fenders, war bonnet and laced wheels—along with modern innovations to Adventure. BMW ceased its production in 1969, but thanks to their
like a keyless ignition and a true dual exhaust. tenacity, R60/2’s are still easier to find than other similarly coveted bikes.
Triumph Bonneville Royal Enfield Bullet

Initially made famous for starring alongside the likes of Brando and Royal Enfield’s Bullet was first produced in 1932 and quickly built a
McQueen on the silver screen, the Triumph Bonneville became reputation as an ideal racing bike before the Indian army started using it
legendary for the land speed records it helped set on the Bonneville Salt in the mid-’50s. The design of the 2015 Bullet C5 Military is a nod to the
Flats. The 2015 Bonneville T100 is reminiscent of Triumph’s design from Bullet’s combat experience.
the ‘60s.
Vincent Black Shadow Ducati 900SS

Often considered the world’s first superbike, the Vincent Black Shadow Stylistically similar to many super-sport bikes being produced in the ’70s,
is iconic for its mostly black exterior as well as for its high speeds and the Ducati 900SS became renowned as the bike of choice for legendary
stylised construction. Vincent produced only about 11,000 motorcycles motorcyclist Mike Hailwood’s victorious comeback to the racing circuit.
from the end of World War II until its closing in 1955, so finding a Black The 900SS is now out of production and a rarity, so the best way to find
Shadow can be a little work. However, if you’re willing to spend, you’ll one is to post queries on Ducati-specific online forums.
need patience sifting through ads on vintage-motorcycle websites.
12 2 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 Words by C ody G ohl . R E X. Bargerphoto.com

po
coming next month
T h e R e n egad e Issu e
Ronda Rousey better be ready; this young’un just debuted. Introducing Angela Lee,
our Woman We Love, and all-around MMA goddess.
Jonno Davies, the lead in the theatre adaptation of A Clockwork Orange, gives us
the 411 on the all-male, all-violent, all-controversial play.
Singer, DJ, and she’s also kicked cancer’s butt.

Daphne Khoo is back with a Funny Joke.
Every brooding rebel needs it and we’re here with a leather special. Expect leather
jackets, leather bags, a Berluti story, and everything you need to know about
keeping your leather well.
You’ll need some R&R. Or a place to escape to.

We’re taking you to the Maldives for a retreat and a spot of recovery.
We can’t say that you’ll only live twice but if you’re under her majesty’s secret
service, tomorrow never dies and you’ll definitely die another day. Speaking with
the man with a licence to kill, it’s a story that’s for your eyes only.
At least for this month.
On sale late September

Finally, a new season is here. Esquire invites
you to take an exclusive gander at the chaos Pull
before the calm of the AW15 runway shows. back
Try to keep up because it can get a little
crazy, and whatever you do, don’t lose your
the
backstage pass. curtain
Photographs by Jeri Chua
Styling by Eugene Lim
Words by Joy Ling
– B A L LY–
Elements of the film inspiration
The Royal Tenenbaums are
evident throughout the
collection—from turtlenecks
paired with camel suits to quirky
weasel fur. Keep an eye out for
their iconic hiking boots and new
“Moon over the Mountain” motif.
Wool suit, wool polo neck jumper and
leather sneakers, all by Bally.
–PRADA–
Dark and linear in design, there is a subtle military overtone to this collection.
Complement the uniformity of black-on-black with defiant sneaker-oxford hybrids that
carry a double-tone glaze.
Cotton blazer, cotton shirt, cotton trousers and leather shoes, all by Prada.
– CA LV I N K L E I N P L AT I N U M –
The suggestion that the tuxedo can be worn outside of black-tie events is not new to the brand, which champions
pared down classics worn in a modern and fresh way. The final look is always one of timeless elegance.
Wool tuxedo jacket and wool polo neck jumper, both by Calvin Klein Platinum.
–BERLUTI–
Though the reflective overcoats,
which covered the spectrum of
casual to formal, received the
most attention on the runway, we
applaud the silent heroes of the
collection: the unlined blazers that
are ideal for layering.
Wool jacket, wool and silk jumper, and
wool trousers, all by Berluti.
–DIOR HOMME–
Kris Van Assche believes in
dressing up when the occasion
calls for it. For your next big
occasion, don’t shy away from
going formal, complete with
a tailcoat, a bow tie and black
sneakers. Yep, you read that right.
Wool and mohair tailcoat, wool and
mohair vest, cotton shirt, wool and
mohair trousers, and silk bow tie, all by
Dior Homme.
–SAINT LAURENT–
Much has changed since the
reinstatement of Hedi Slimane as Creative
Director, but what has remained constant
is his fascination with all things rock ’n’
roll. This season is no different, as he pays
tribute to his project, Paris Sessions—a
celebration of a new generation of Parisian
musicians—with updated classics like
trench coats, leather jackets, skinny jeans
and beatnik stripes.
Wool jumper and wool scarf, both by
Saint Laurent.
–BOSS–
BOSS continues
to capture
masculinity in
impeccably crisp
sartorial suits that
empower. So even
if you may not feel
the part, you can
certainly look it.
(Left) Wool suit,
cotton shirt, wool tie
and leather shoes,
all by BOSS. (Right)
Cotton coat with
suede trim, wool suit,
cotton shirt, wool tie
and leather shoes, all
by BOSS.
–TOD’S–
Like a trustworthy
friend that you
can depend on,
Tod’s provides
classic staples
in respectable
pinstripes and
curated checks.
Finish off the look
with a pair of their
soft monkstraps.
Wool suit, cotton shirt
and leather sneakers,
all by Tod’s; silk tie by
dunhill.
–LOUIS VUITTON–
A tribute to the late Christopher Nemeth, the British artist’s print of intertwined threads casts its broad brush across
the collection. If you have never heard of Nemeth, fret not; Creative Director Kim Jones has ensured that the looks
remain loyal to the brand’s travel heritage. So either way, you’ll look good.
Wool coat, cashmere shirt and wool trousers, all by Louis Vuitton.
– SA LVATO R E F E R R AGA M O –
Creative Director Massimiliano Giornetti pays homage to forgotten folk art and the imaginative spirit for AW15, both
of which he has discreetly embedded in silk. Take a closer look and you might just spot wildlife hidden amongst the
intricate details.
Wool jacket and silk shirt, both by Salvatore Ferragamo.
–GUCCI–
The house of Gucci experienced
a complete style revamp after
designer Alessandro Michele
assumed the helm (think bohemian
romantics in ’60s Paris). Still, don’t
overlook some indispensable
pieces that will have you
reconsidering the possibility of
owning a silk shirt.
Wool blazer and silk shirt, both by Gucci.
–BOTTEGA
VENETA–
Smart-casual is always a tricky
dress code; after all, how much is
too much? Bottega Veneta’s relaxed
approach to daywear, however,
gives us hope. There’s no trumping
the cool nonchalance of roomy
coats and joggers deftly disguised
as trousers, all impeccably crafted,
of course.
Wool jacket, cotton shirt, wool and linen
trousers, and ostrich leather weekender
bag, all by Bottega Veneta.
–ERMENEGILDO
ZEGNA COUTURE–
Creative Director Stefano Pilati
draws inspiration from nature,
delving into its conservation and
protection for AW15. Metallic
elements in the collection lead to a
darkly lustrous finish, while textural
juxtapositions of leather, velvet
and tweed create riveting, detailed
highlights on the suits.
(Left) Cotton velvet jacket and plated
generated cashmere crewneck jumper,
both by Ermenegildo Zegna Couture.
(Centre) High density cotton velvet
jacket and tonal cashmere and silk turtle
neck sweater, all by Ermenegildo Zegna
Couture.
(Right) Double splittable century
cashmere jacket and cotton poplin shirt,
both by Ermenegildo Zegna Couture.
–DUNHILL–
Following the laidback style of the ’50s creative scene in London’s Soho, there is a sense of liberty in the dunhill
man’s personality this season. The predominant use of corduroy and the smart fit of shirts add the bookish
charisma of the intellectual to the collection.
Cotton corduroy shirt and cotton corduroy trousers, both by dunhill.
–PAUL SMITH–
Don’t be surprised by the subdued
palette. The brand’s iconic jocular
attitude isn’t missing; instead, it’s
expressed in geometric shapes and
tonal blocks, which are set against
the understated assurance of
perfect English tailoring.
(Left) Cashmere and wool coat, cotton
shirt, cashmere and wool trousers, and
leather sneakers, all by Paul Smith.
(Right) Wool pullover by Paul Smith.
–BURBERRY
PRORSUM–
Entitled Classical Bohemian, the
collection’s looks revel in the
dandyish extravagance of the
’60s: fringe, fur and ornate exotic
patterns. Standalone statements,
these rich textures are great for
adding individual flair to your usual
wardrobe staples.
(Left) Shearling jacket, and silk and linen
trousers, both by Burberry Prorsum.
(Right) Faux fur jumper by Burberry
Prorsum.
–EMPORIO ARMANI–
Comfort and structure might make strange bedfellows, but it becomes a judicious combination that we highly
approve of in this collection of form-fitting knitwear and, of course, luxe suits.
Wool suit and cotton shirt, both by Emporio Armani.
–DOLCE & GABBANA–
Dolce & Gabbana speaks the language of prestige with its lavish gold embellishments, such as the collection’s
embroidered crowned bee, which takes centre stage for AW15. Cue the ideal suit for your moment in the spotlight.
Embroidered wool three-piece suit, cotton shirt and wool tie, all by Dolce & Gabbana.
St y l i st ass i st e d by J oy L i n g. M a k e- u p by A l e x T u s i n g L au r a M e rc i e r. H a i r by A n g e l i n e Ta n a n d E r i c L i m at F DP PRE STIGE H AIR

CARE . M o d e ls: Dy l a n V, G r eg K , Ja n F, P i e r L a n d B e n so n A , a l l f ro m av e . s p ec i a l t h a n ks to f i j i wat e r.
style
Welcome to autumn
Please dress accordingly.
Featuring Jason Atherton.
T h e m a n : The Michelin-starred chef behind 17 restaurants and bars around the world is taking his
Cool Britannia eats to the US for the first time with his new restaurant, the Clocktower, in New York.
For more on Atherton’s global tastes, go to esquire.com/atherton.
T h e c lot h e s : What we have here are four layers of high-quality autumn clothing, and if the
sweater and coat seem premature in late-summer days, we’ve got news for you: Autumn is on its way.
Over the following pages, we’ve got the best of what’s arriving in stores, so for stocking up, upgrading
and splurging, look no further.
1. Cashmere-and-wool coat by Brioni. 2. Three-button cashmere jacket by Brioni.

3. Cashmere-and-silk sweater by Brioni. 4. Cotton shirt by Brioni.
5. Cashmere trousers by Brioni. 6. Suede-and-calfskin shoes by Thom Browne.
* Denotes translated prices
146 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 ILLUSTRATION BY T YLER TEE (ORIGINAL PHOTOGRAPH BY AARON RICHTER).
ST Y LE — T H E SEASO N U PGR AD ES
Jackets 1
Key words: Textured. Meaty. Not a ton of structure.
1. T h e ca r d i gan jac k e t: Not a swacket, ex-

actly, but an unlined, deconstructed jacket that es-
sentially doubles as a tailored sweater. They’re all
over the place this autumn, and this version, a lin-
en-wool-and-silk blend, hits the sweet spot be-
tween work and play. By Canali (SGD2,586*).
2. T h e m i c ro p l a i d: In smaller-patterned
jackets like this cotton-and-wool-blend two-but-
ton, a raised texture sharpens the colour and shad-
ing contrasts in the pattern and keeps things from
getting muddy. By Luigi Bianchi Mantova.
3. T h e b i g p l a i d: A man can wear a big pat-

tern, and a man can wear a bold colour, but a man
cannot wear a big pattern and a bold colour. When
blowing it out (with, say, a big-ass windowpane
plaid), stick with safer shades, like navy blue and
white. By Etro (SGD2,359*).
4. T h e a l l- p u r p os e b l a z e r: Hard to go
wrong with basic grey for your everyday blazer,
but a subtle herringbone (like the grey-and-black
pattern on this jacket) offers that much more char-
acter and depth. By Bonobos (SGD531*).
5. T w e e d? Yup. And if you’re going full-on

tweed, a streamlined cut is everthing. This pure
Shetland-wool blazer is hardy, but the designer
keeps it light and lean. By Freemans Sporting Club
(SGD1,338*).
A G u i d e to
S p e ak i ng
Ita l i an
Ta i lo r i ng
2 3 4 5
So many good things
coming out of Italy
these days. Some so
hard to pronounce.
Piombo: Pee-um-bo
Ermenegildo Zegna:
Air-men-eh-jill-doh
Zen-yah
Cesare Attolini:
Chay-sa-ray Att-oh-li-ni
Finamore:
Feen-uh-more-ay
Boglioli: Bo-lee-oh-lee
Eidos: Ee-dos
Lubiam: Lou-bee-am
Isaia: Ee-sigh-ee-uh

STYLE — THE SEASON UP G R A DE S
2
a dv i sa b l e
sw e at e r
pat t e r n s
1
a dv i sa b l e
Aran
5
Argyle
Sweaters Snowflake
Key words: Patterned. Crewneck. Turtleneck, but only if it’s not beefy.
1. A t u rt l e n ec k? Yes. Choose black or dark ed with fine wool, as in this crewneck), acrylic can
blue for maximum impact; bonus points for a provide all the warmth and softness of wool with-
flecked Donegal pattern. By Oliver Spencer out the weight. By Saturdays NYC (SGD235*).
(SGD491*).
4. c o n s i d e r t h e wa f f l e : Most waffle tex-
2. T h e n e xt- g e n ca b l e- k n i t: There’s been tures show up in henleys and other layering items,
a quiet revolution in sweaters over the past few but a good waffle sweater, like this striped
years, owing mostly to innovations in print tech- merino-wool-blend crewneck from Banana Re- Cowichan
niques and 3-D printing, and the 200-year-old public, works as a stellar top note. By Banana Re-
Pringle of Scotland has helped lead the charge public (SGD121*).
with the likes of this multidimensional cable-knit
sweater. By Pringle of Scotland (SGD2,145*). 5. t h e n e w n e u t r a ls : Add to your arsenal of
navy-blue or heather-grey sweaters with this
3. T h e u p s i d e o f ac ry l i c : There is an obvi- striped geometric pattern, which combines all of
ous and just suspicion of nonnatural fibres in your favourite neutrals in one wool crewneck. By
sweaters, but in the right hands (and when blend- Paul Smith (SGD1,015*).
Cosby
T h e I n n ovat i o n : gass e d cas h m e r e
Created by Italy’s molto mad scientist Massimo Alba, this wool is slightly
i n a dv i sa b l e
burned to remove all the fuzz and flyaways, thereby leaving a cloth that is soft
and cashmere-like but totally flat. Sweater (SGD1,384.84*).
148 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 CORBIS. GETT Y. EVERETT COLLECTION

ST Y LE — T H E SEASO N U PGR AD ES
1
3
2
T h e au t u m n - C oat
Lightning Round
Coats When in doubt and all other

things being equal.
Key words: Fitted. Functional. And, uh, warm.
Longer or shorter?
Shorter.
Lined or unlined?
1. T h e bas e ba l l jack e t: A down-filled to ensure a better fit around the waist and a Lined.
wool torso and contrasting cobalt-blue nylon convertible hood that pops up when the Hood or no hood?
sleeves: This ain’t the average baseball jacket, weather gets rough. By Gap (SGD132*). No hood.
and it’s fully reversible, to boot. By Herno
Zip or button?
(SGD1,311*). 4. r ega r d i n g the b lo us o n : Also Zip for functionality. Button for
known as a thin, lightweight windbreaker- looks.
2. T h e p e ac oat: This autumn staple like coat without a lot of bells and whistles. Patch or set-in pockets?
comes in all cloths and colours, but for some- When made of leather (e.g., this Façonnable Doesn’t matter.
thing closer to the original, go for this melton- coat), it’s all the more soft and supple. By Fa-
Black or navy?
wool coat from Woolrich. It’s naturally wa- çonnable (SGD7,060*). Navy. Or any colour, really,
ter- and wind-resistant and warm when you other than black.
need it to be. By Woolrich John Rich & Bros. 5. T h e s h e a r l i n g c oat: This is the big Wool or cotton?
(SGD874*). gun for when the weather gets serious. It has Wool for durability. Cotton for
versatility.
an olive suede body and contrasting charcoal
3. T h e f i e l d jack e t: Totally practical, shearling on the collar, and its manufactur- Wool or leather?
endlessly washable, and equipped with ers stipulate that it will wear well through Wool for warmth. Leather for luxury.
enough pockets for whatever ground war “at least two generations.” By Eidos Napoli Coat or no coat?
needs waging. Plus, there’s a drawstring cord (SGD4,027*). Coat.

ST Y LE — d e s i g n e r p ro f i l e
The Evolver
How does a heritage brand avoid getting stale? Well, one way would be to
take the unexpected road and rope in someone irreverent like Richard Nicoll.
Words by Wayne Cheong
peers do more niche products, I feel that my ap-

proach is broader,” he says.
The designer admits the challenges faced in
working within a set of guidelines; it didn’t come
naturally to him and it took a few seasons before
he found his footing. “It’s not a departure; it’s an
evolution,” he explains, “Traditionally, Jack Wills
is much more classification-driven and stems from
British heritage. I’ve tried to respect that while
putting out something younger and fresher.”
His SS15 collection revolves around the theme
of a rite of passage—the moment when you and
your peers let go of social constraints and embark
on a metaphorical journey. “The brand is about that
youthful moment in time, where you’re carefree.
That kind of optimism, that period when you’re
between school and university, when you’re hav-
ing fun with your group of friends. The DNA of the
brand is very much about that,” he notes. “What
I’m doing is respecting everything that’s success-
ful about Jack Wills in order to evolve and elevate
it.” The first drop of the collection is based on for-
malwear and heritage, with plenty of Edwardian
and Brideshead Revisited references. Drop two is
based on the idea of bohemia and casual freedom.
Optimism, energy and youthfulness coalesce in his
collection.
We point out the somewhat liberal use of Jack
W h i l e o n ly a rec ent p re s en c e on the Wills’ name on the outfits. Nicoll admits his fond-
local fashion scene, the Jack Wills brand is big in ness for it. “It’s playful really. The company has
the UK. The “fabulously British” (cribbed from the such a strong identity that I’m embracing it. And
company’s slogan) label adorns the outfits of the since Abercrombie [& Fitch] are getting rid of
young and preppy Sloaney crowd. [their own brand name from their outfits], I really
Since its inception in Salcombe, Devon, in 1999, wanted to make the most of it,” he laughs.
the brand has since expanded to over 80 locations His process is fairly traditional. He comes up
both in the UK and internationally. But the pres- with the concept for the season and collects visual
ervation of heritage might give way to stagnancy. references that reflect the theme. Recently, Nicoll
Time marches on as with people’s tastes; thus, to ventured to Japan for research into SS16. The in-
survive, adaptability is needed. teresting takeaways for him were seeing how the
To circumvent extinction, the company roped Japanese layer their outfits and the artisanal ele-
in Richard Nicoll as its Creative Director. The Aus- ments of fashion. “At 45rpm,” he says, “I saw the
tralia-raised, London-based designer started out in indigo dye process. Mixing the tech with the ar-
fine arts before discovering his knack for fashion. tisanal elements; Japan has that nice tension be-
His take on modernist classics won him three As- tween the two.”
sociation Nationale pour le Développement des Arts An evolutionary tenet states the survival of the
de la Mode (ANDAM) prizes in 2008 and a “Best species lies in mass propagation, but it’s also the
Young Designer” prize at the Elle Style Awards for refined meeting of consumers’ current tastes and
his debut at London Fashion Week in 2009. Given the attraction of new ones. “People age. They’ll
his history, eyebrows were raised when the mini- leave university for the workforce and I want to
malist designer joined Jack Wills. provide something they can wear to work,” he says.
Nicoll echoes similar sentiments as well. Evolution is a long and discriminating process,
Speaking in a soft contralto, he adds that he knew but in the fashion world, empires rise and crumble
he could get the job done. “I worked with other within seasons. It’s safe to assume that we won’t
youthful brands before, like Fred Perry. While my see Jack Wills on the extinction list.

ST Y LE — H ow To W e a r
How to wear a heavy duty jacket by Bally

If you thought owning a leather jacket would improve your life, you guessed right.
Bally’s contemporary take on the menswear classic is perfect for channelling your
inner James Dean, or just giving your trusty blazer a well-deserved break.
Photographs by Nicky Loh Words and styling by Eugene Lim
T hree
accessories
to m atch your
loo k
Acetate sunglasses by
Dior Homme
Leather belt by
Tod’s
E s q uire
e n dorses
Leather and wool

jacket by Bally,
SGD8,990
Leather backpack
by dunhill
Hassanal Ruslan, Undergraduate.
Left
Ruslan formal: Leather and wool jacket by Bally; cotton shirt by Uniqlo; cotton trousers by BOGGI; silk tie by dunhill; leather
double monk strap shoes by Magnanni.
Right
Ruslan casual: Leather and wool jacket by Bally; cotton T-shirt by Uniqlo; cotton denim jeans by Faculty at Supplies & Co;
leather boots by Bottega Veneta.
St y list assisted by N a d h ir a h H a lim . ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 151

ST Y LE — HAND
HANDBOOK
BOOK
Paul Smith
Travel Jacket
(part of a suit)
SGD1,390
Solid journeyman
How to look immaculate on the go.
You can see why the good folks at Paul Smith named this “A Suit to Travel In”. Not only is it
made with 100 percent high-twist yarn—meaning it is remarkably crease-resistant (no more
ironing!) and water repellent, it is also cut to flow with your body, thereby putting comfort
front and centre. And if you are still in any doubt, check out Paul Smith’s AW15 presentation
online, which featured awe-inspiring acrobatics performed by artists from UK’s National
Centre for Circus Arts. All executed in the suit, of course.
152 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 P h oto g r a p h by e k ya p. wo r ds by ja n ie ca i. ST Y L I NG BY L I M S I U FANG.

ST Y LE — H A N D BOOK
Is it a shirt? Is it a jacket?
No! It’s a shacket
Meet the new autumn multitasker
Lighter than a jacket but more substantial than a shirt, a shirt-jacket
(or “shacket”) in soft suede, cotton gabardine or even a superfine wool is
perfect as the nights draw in, teamed with a T-shirt, or, on chillier days, with
a fine-gauge roll-neck. We’ve picked five of the best.
Khaki cotton-
canvas, SGD644*, by
Private White VC
Brown/blue/
white wool-cotton,
SGD760*, by dunhill
Grey cashmere-
jersey, SGD2,160,
by Louis Vuitton
Tan cotton-drill,
SGD750*, by Prada
Navy wool-cotton,
SGD698*, by
Oliver Spencer
WO R DS BY T eo va n de B roe k e . P h oto by Da n M cA l ister. ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 153

ST Y LE — HANDBOOK
Cotton shirt, Cotton shirt,

SGD199, by BOGGI; SGD520, by Gucci;
silk tie, SGD250, silk tie, SGD250,
by Salvatore by Salvatore
Working week Ferragamo. Ferragamo.
You might have a tough week

ahead at the office, but here
are five classic shirt and tie
combinations to ease you in.
Striped work shirts make for
a sharp look, especially when
paired with a printed silk tie.
The trick is getting the width
of the stripes and the pattern
of the tie just right. Opt for
smaller prints with larger
stripes and vice versa; then
throw on a navy jacket and get
right down to business.
154 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 P hotograph by ching. words by janie cai. ST Y L I N G BY L I M S I U FA N G.

Cotton shirt, Cotton shirt, Cotton shirt,

SGD600, by SGD290, by SGD169, by BOGGI;
Ermenegildo Zegna; Hackett; silk tie, silk tie, SGD280 by
silk tie, SGD330, by SGD270, by dunhill. Gucci.
Prada.

This year’s hot spots

Where to go and what to wear to turn your holiday on its head
Once, the cool crowd’s default summer haunt was Ibiza, after which
they headed over the Med to Marrakech to relax and recover from
all that hedonism on the White Island. But lately, new high-style,
low-fuss destinations are the preferred ports of calls for those in
the know. From unspoilt beaches in southern Goa and Brazil to chic
Puglia, stylish men have new hot spots — allow us to show you what
to wear when you get there.
Puglia, Italy
At the heel of Italy’s boot, this parched landscape, with its
Mediterranean climate and multiple historical influences, is
the ultimate spot for a long weekend spent eating, tanning,
and eating again.
Where to stay Masseria Torre Maizza,

masseriatorremaizza.com
lightweight shoes
Navy suede loafers, SGD450*, by Tod’s
Classic Panama
Natural toquilla palm hat, SGD513*, by Lock & Co Hatters
They did their own stunts: Sean

Connery and Ursula Andress
filming Dr No in Jamaica, 1962 Swim shorts
Navy bandana swimming trunks,
SGD98*, by Boardies Apparel

Tulum, Mexico
There are few fashionistas who haven’t holidayed in Mexico’s
most picturesque beachside town. Far enough away for
comfort from spring break-central Cancun and only a short
flight from Mexico City, Tulum may not be the place for a
break from the scene, but it is the place to go if you want to
casual PANTS beach shoes SIMPLE shirt be seen.
Navy/red silk trousers, Black leather sandals, White cotton T-shirt,
SGD698*, by Dries Van Noten SGD240*, by Camper SGD26*, by Topman Where to stay Be Tulum, betulum.com
Trancoso, Brazil
Situated in Brazil’s spectacular coastal state of Bahia, this
former fishing village boasts unspoilt tropical beaches,
remarkable seafood restaurants and a horizontal attitude to
life. Both Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell went on holiday
here last year and Olivier Baussan, owner of cosmetics giant
L’Occitane, owns a hillside villa in this blissed-out epicentre
of chill. CASUAL SHIRT SLIP-ONS Beach GAMES
White crepe-cotton polo shirt, Blue cotton espadrilles, Wooden Trancoso
Where to stay Uxua Casa Hotel, uxua.com SGD1,505*, by Ermenegildo SGD28*, by H&M bat, SGD327*,
Zegna Couture by Frescobol Carioca
Agonda, India
Far from the madding hippy crowd of northern Goa,
this enormous white beach in the state’s southernmost
reach is the latest haven for media people on a mission
to escape (but don’t let that put you off). Fly direct to Goa
— or get a connecting flight from Mumbai — jump in a cab
down the coast and spend a week sleeping in a hut on the
sand, eating the best tandoori food you’ll ever taste and
CASUAL SHIRT CLASSIC SUNGLASSES SWIM SHORTS drinking G&Ts (for around 30p a pop).
Blue towelling cotton polo, Tortoiseshell Wayfarers, Pink cotton swimming trunks,
SGD207*, by Orlebar Brown SGD275*, by Ray-Ban SGD164*, by Paul Smith Where to stay Simrose Resort, simrose-goa.com

Six of the best summer upgrades

Treat yourself to these heat-beating winners
White pique Updating your wardrobe Green wool jacket,

cotton shirt, needn’t mean replacing SGD5,140*, by
SGD492*, everything in it. Instead, Ermenegildo
by Kilgour invest in key pieces cut Zegna Couture
from contemporary fabrics.
To get started, here are
six simple style upgrades
you can make now.
Marlon Brando keeps it

simple but stylish, 1952
2. Embrace a pleat in trousers
Pleated trousers are as

big this summer as they
are for the forthcoming
winter. Opt for a style with
a single or double pleat
1. Choose pique cotton over poplin
at the waist, which will
give you more room in the 3. Purchase a breathable blazer
Soft and casual pique is
a much better fabric for thigh, and a tapered calf.
Just because the weather’s
summer than traditional warm doesn’t mean
poplin. It’s far more you must look sloppy.
Camel
breathable, less likely to A light blazer cut from
wool
crease and a pleasure a breathable, crease-
trousers,
to wear in the heat: this free fabric will keep you
SGD66*,
simple white shirt from cool in every sense of the
by H&M
Kilgour is a case in point. word. Try dark seersucker
or super-light wool.
Navy silk
T-shirt, Navy linen
SGD274*, overshirt,
by Kilgour SGD722*,
by dunhill
5. Swap trainers for skate shoes

4. Choose a high-quality T-shirt
Trainers are the big thing
Don’t skimp on the basics in footwear this season,
—it’s the first thing people but if you really want 6. Go for summer-friendly linen
notice. Instead of cheap to get the look spot-on,
cotton, opt for a T-shirt trade your trad lace-ups Overshirts are big news
in light, breathable silk, for a pair of laid-back, and the best are at Alfred
which will last the test slip-on skate shoes. Dunhill, where creative
of time and look far director John Ray is
more flattering on. bringing much-needed
Burgundy slip-on modernity to the label.
trainers, SGD131*, This linen version can be
by Mr Porter x Cos dressed up or down and is
a mid-summer essential.

Victorinox AW15
Wilhelm Blouson
Victorinox’s Archetypes range,
designed by its Artistic Director
Christopher Raeburn, is a
collection we’re particularly
excited about. Inspired by
military surplus garments
and the brand’s archive, it’s a
fusion of form and function.
We especially like the Wilhelm
Blouson, a modern take on the
army bomber. Victorinox’s
new modular lining system
also impresses, allowing the
collection’s quilted gilet and the
full-sleeve liner to be clipped
into waterproof outer layers.
victorinox.com
New season,
new everything
Victorinox’s military hardwear, plus
ground-breaking boots and bags
Ugg
Treadlite collection
Ugg has unveiled wintry new
additions to its Treadlite
collection. A series of the
label’s sturdiest designs have
become super-light with the
addition of a Treadlite sole,
which is durable, comfortable
and, most importantly,
bafflingly lightweight. It’s the
most stylish treat you can
give your feet this season.
uggaustralia.com
Hermès
Cabacity 45 bag
Hermès has made exemplary leather
goods for 170 years, but the Parisian
house has always had a penchant for
the unusual. The new Cabacity 45 bag
is a perfect example. Cut from Hunter
cowhide and Cristobal bull-calf leather,
it’s a two-in-one shopper, with a rigid
tote-style outer and a removable over-
the-shoulder inner. The two bags are
made one by a series of poppers and
interlocking tabs—it’s joyfully practical,
but with all the aesthetic finesse you’d
expect from Hermès. So, if you’re only
going to buy one bag this season, buy two.
hermes.com

ST Y LEFIL E — PERPETUA L ST Y L E
“It’s really encouragin

to see what’s happeni
in Japan, to the exten
that it gives us the
confidence to invest
in this market, after
not having made majo
investments in previo
years, as most of the
money went to China.
—Dr Gerrit Ruetzel,
president and CEO of
Hugo Boss Asia-Pacific
160 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 P h oto g r a p h s by Ro g er Hutc h i n gs a n d Gi l l es - M a rie Z immerm a n n ( A n g e l a d e Bo n a ).

ST Y LE F I LE — PER PET UA L ST YL E
The house that Giorgio built

Following the opening of the newly christened Armani/Silos space in
conjunction with the Milan Expo, fashion lovers have a new temple of
style to visit. Esquire takes you along as we celebrate the world’s most
famous designer and his 40 years of creativity.
Words by Sam Coleman
I n a b usi n ess that celebrates excess person-

ality, where bling and A-list red carpet theatrical-
ity are a given, the night that punctuated Milan’s
Via Bergognone will go down as a once-in-a-de-
cade event and—for its host—possibly once-in-a-
lifetime. They were all there to pay homage to a
legend of style, to possibly the most eponymous
fashion icon alive: Giorgio Armani, a man synon-
ymous with Hollywood and fashion, with androg-
yny as well as masculine and feminine and—pos-
sibly above all else—productive longevity. Cate
Blanchett, Leonardo DiCaprio, Glenn Close, Tina
Turner, Chris Pine, Janet Jackson and a slew of
ng
ing other global celebs took time to honour the man
nt and his incredible 40 years in fashion, a feat like
few others as he takes a full-year victory lap. As
fashionistas will know, Armani is making this his
or year of years, be that parties, working feverishly
ous
on Armani Casa projects like the 700 apartments
.” in Mumbai’s World Towers (get ready, China, as
Armani plans 50 stores and other residential proj-
c ects breaking ground soon), the tribute site to the
man and his legend (Atribute.armani.com), and
even an app to mark the four decades of an inde-
fatigable force.
But this, the new Armani/Silos structure, is
the coup d’état of the whole activation—a mas-
sive complex of textured concrete and modern-
ism that serves as the shrine to Armani’s legacy.
Once the granary of Nestlé that sat opposite Ar-
mani’s show space on Via Bergognone 40, the Ar-
mani/Silos structure has seen a reported SGD75
million* used to renovate it into the 4,500sqm
showcase that it has become. “Fashion, which
seems to want to live in an eternal present, needs
to reflect on itself and its own roots in order to
face the future,” Mr Armani says, as he strolls
through the levels of his recent creation. “Re-
membering what we were like in the past can
help us understand what we might be in the fu-
ture,” he declares wanly, as he reflects on his 81
years of life thus far, and the years that will come
(see interview).
Taking the Armani/Silos as an experience (and
the remonstration from Armani himself is not to
call it a museum) is to see the sweep of that eter-
nal present with that acknowledgement of past

and future. The exhibition is not arranged chron- icisms—the Armani/Silos ode to the experimen-
ologically as one would predictably expect; it isn’t tal in Armani clothes be that Privé, GA or EA—is
lined with pictures of Armani in triumphant mo- shown along with accessories. The colour scheme
ments and the artefactual history of him and the rooms come next, with an ode to “greige” (the Ar-
brand. Instead, it starts with an installation of a mani signature colour), reds, blues and other as-
special Armani T-shirt (part of a capsule collec- sociated elements of the spectrum, all the while
tion only available at Armani/Silos) that stands representing the 40-year kaleidoscope.
barrenly in the middle of the foyer, lights shining The final level ends with light as a commodity
upon it, with a picture of Armani from the glo- (transparency, reflection) of his fashion, as well as
rious ’80s when he began his brand, when Stu- the digital archive that serves as a scholastic re-
dio 54 was his stomping ground and his soldering source for academics and passionate laypersons
Italian looks reigned over fashion. “You see from of style history. The archive contains 1,000 out-
above the lights are positioned to make it a star fits categorised by season, images of 2,000 outfits
with light and shadow,” our guide tells us, as we and accessories along with sketches, stills, videos
start visiting the rooms and their 600 outfits (130 and more. “It really is a testament to Mr Armani,
looks are menswear) on our tour. the love that people have for him and his passion
The ground floor does have a bit of the glam- for beauty that we have this space,” says the guide
our, the celebrity culture that Armani is known in true wonder, as she casts her gaze onto the
for. Plasmas show A-listers in red carpet moments atrium’s ceiling. With 20 million people coming
to reinforce the dream of Hollywood and fash- to the capital of Italian and European fashion for
ion’s place in it. By the first floor, though, the co- the Expo this year, the Armani/Silos will serve as
lour and the thematic schemes take over as Exot- a visual ode to such stylish love.

E squire ta l ks to t he l egen d a b ou t A rmani / S i los , e t erna l s t y l e an d

b eing t he mos t famous home b o dy in t he wor l d.
Words by Darren Gan
E SQU IRE : You have been named special am-

bassador of Expo 2015. How will you use your
position to make Expo 2015 special?
G IO RGIO AR MAN I: Being named special am-
bassador has made me very proud, and it will al-
low me to give my personal contribution to the
Expo. I’ve always had a debt of gratitude to the
city of Milan, which welcomed me and under-
stood me, and has always inspired me. By a happy
coincidence, the universal exhibition coincides
with the 40th anniversary of Giorgio Armani, for
which I had already planned a number of events
and celebrations. It will be an honour and a plea-
sure to work with the Expo, which will give the
world a different view of Milan.
E SQ: Another exciting event is the opening of

the Armani/Silos, which will house a complete
brand archive. Is it a simple archive or will it
have other interesting features? Will there be
any special exhibitions in the future?
GA: Armani/Silos isn’t going to be a simple ar- creasingly busy working life, needed clothes that
chive, but a space designed to preserve and pro- were as comfortable as men’s. They needed some-
tect—not only metaphorically—the creative heri- thing that would give them dignity, an attitude
tage and the history of my brand. I hope it will that helped them cope with their professional life
also boost and bring out creativity, research and without forsaking being women.
development. Armani/Silos will include a very
important collection of garments, accompanied E S Q: In recent decades, you have been both
by sketches and drawings. The archive will be the designer and the person who has run the
a starting point and a source of inspiration for company. Creating designs is more of an artis-
young designers, not a fossilised place, but vital tic task, while running a business requires logi-
raw material and a driving force. cal thinking and strategy. How do you handle
the conflict?
E SQ: Your famous power suit came into exis- GA: I don’t think the artistic component is in
tence in the ’80s. Were your womenswear cre- contrast with the logic side. I call myself a fash-
ations reflections of feminism in some way? ion designer and a businessman, and my vision
If not, do you think your success was partly due of business is an integral part of my way of doing
to feminism? fashion. I immediately realised that, to grow the
GA: I wouldn’t say that the power suit was a re- way I wanted, I had to remain independent. In or-
flection of feminism. It was rather inspired by an der to do that, I had to hold the reins of everything
actual need, which I met with a pragmatic inven- myself, including from a financial standpoint. It
tion that had a strong social impact. It all began was a natural process, although very challenging.
from my desire to create simple, soft jackets, in I’m a very pragmatic person and I don’t find it dif-
which the wearer could move freely and natu- ficult to be a creative and an entrepreneur at the
rally. I soon realised that women, with their in- same time.

E S Q: Fashion is linked to the entertainment faithful market to me. The American public were
world. Your name has been associated with Hol- among the first to appreciate my work and my
lywood since the days of American Gigolo in desire to innovate, and this is something I cannot
1980. You have created costumes for more than and will not forget. Besides, many of the concepts
100 films. What’s the difference between creat- behind the American DNA include values and
ing costumes for films and designing lines for thoughts that have always inspired me—tenacity,
the market? a sense of responsibility and freedom, fully be-
GA: It is certainly different from creating for the lieving in what you do. I think this is also why I
market. You get to work with a number of dif- immediately found great support in the US.
ferent directors and actors, and you have to help
build characters through clothes. They must also E S Q: Some say you’re not at all flashy com-
be designed for the time in which the film is set, pared to other fashion designers. You’ve said:
whether it is the past—as in The Untouchables— “I don’t drink alcohol, I don’t smoke, and I go to
or the recent A Most Violent Year, or even the bed at 10:30 every night.” However, in an inter-
future—as in Elysium. It is extremely interesting view with Suzy Menkes, you also said: “I have
work that originates from within the story and so many things in my life. I have the money, and
has always stimulated me very much creatively. I’m very famous. Everyone recognises me when
I walk down the street. It’s like being Madonna.
E S Q: Giorgio Armani has a special New-York/ It is so much fun.” Do you enjoy being a public
Hollywood/American DNA. How do you view figure? Does this help the Giorgio Armani fash-
the Italian heritage of your brand and your ion empire?
American DNA? GA: I am clearly honoured that some people con-
GA: The United States is much more than a solid, sider me an icon. It is great, but personally, I don’t

feel as such. Sitting on my laurels and indulging in

self-satisfaction are attitudes that don’t feel like
me; I always prefer to focus on my work and what
I still have to do. I believe my fashion business is
supported by some innate insight mixed with a
sense of aesthetics, great determination, consis-
tency and hard work, but certainly not the fact of
being considered a celebrity.
E SQ: Giorgio Armani was one of the first fash-

ion brands to enter China. What made you de-
cide to explore that market? It is an interesting
fact that it happened exactly 10 years after the
Giorgio Armani brand entered the US market.
Was it comparable to the US market in the ’80s?
GA: I got there, before many others, in 1998.
Looking back now, it was a pioneering deci-
sion that met with instant success. It was a risk,
of course, but I’m convinced that there is no
business without risk. It was a very important
experience and it taught me a lot. Since then,
the business has grown at a fast pace. As for the
two markets, it is impossible to make a com-
parison because of the deep cultural diversity
between them. The one thing that they have in
common, though, is the enthusiasm with which I
was welcomed.

ST Y LE — PERPETUAL ST Y L E
ing with the different pieces that we have. Our

collection is very broad, and we have different fits,
styles, and of course, fabrics that we select from
the best wool factories. That’s how we close a col-
lection, but the models are modified, or in a sense,
designed by us.
The curator
ESQ: Is there an advantage to this method of de-
veloping the collection, as opposed to design-
Esquire speaks to Pietro Rizzi, Head of Product ing and manufacturing everything from scratch
Development at BOGGI, to talk about the in-house?
brand’s past, present and future, as well as his PZ: Absolutely, because you can take the best of
observations about the Singaporean man. the different Italian suppliers. In this case, we
Words by Eugene Lim know who is the best at a certain model, like who
we should go to for a double-breasted jacket or a
single-breasted jacket, or who makes the best un-
constructed or constructed jackets. When we fin-
ish a collection, every piece of clothing is, in our
opinion, the best that you can find that is made in
Italy and the BOGGI world.
ESQ: Tell me more about what inspires you when

you start working on a new collection.
PZ: Usually, when we begin designing a collec-
tion, we start with the colour palette. But you
know, inspiration can come from anywhere, like
watching a movie or visiting a particular town. I
don’t know; maybe next season, we might take in-
spiration from Singapore. Why not? [laughs]
ESQ: For your SS15 collection, you went with the

colour blue. What is the inspiration for the AW15
season?
PZ: For autumn/winter, it’s a little more colour-
ful. Of course, blue is ingrained into the DNA of
BOGGI, and this colour is going strong right now,
but we have added a touch of colour, like grey and
orange, to the next collection. We are maintain-
ing the soul of the collection, as classic and con-
temporary, while the colour palette more or less
ESQUIRE: Tell us more about your role as the starts with blue, but ends with a different touch
Head of Product Development at BOGGI. of colours.
PIETRO RIZZI: My role, when starting a new col-
lection, is to take a look at new fabrics and decide ESQ: Do you have a particular man in mind when
which to use, create different combinations for you design the collection?
the collection, work out the ( jacket) models, and PZ: For BOGGI, we think about a cosmopolitan
determine the sales campaign and the image of customer, a man who travels a lot around the
the brand. world.
ESQ: Do you work with a team of designers to ESQ: Is he Italian?

create each collection? PZ: No, no, no. When we say cosmopolitan, we
PZ: Usually, we work with different suppliers, mean he can live in New York, Singapore, Macau,
where we pick the best pieces offered by a par- anywhere, but also Milan, of course.
ticular supplier, and then adjust and modify them
Above
exclusively for the BOGGI brand. We start with ESQ: I see a lot of heavier fabrics being used in
Pietro Rizzi, Head of Product the different fits and fine-tune the design, like the the autumn/winter collection. There’s also more
Development at Boggi, in town
to talk to Esquire about the
lapel or the buttonholes. [Each collection is] more layering in the way pieces are styled together.
brand’s AW15 collection. or less like a puzzle, and we complete it by work- How do you balance creating a product that is

ST Y LE — PER PET UA L ST YL E
sold all over the world, yet suitable for a country

like Singapore, where it is summer all year long?
PZ: Our collection is very broad. In this case,
the autumn/winter collection is made of lighter
weight fabrics, and of course, we have opened
our minds much more than before, now that we
have stores all around the world. Proportionally,
we have more of the lightweight [pieces] as com-
pared to four or five years ago, because we know
that having an international business in places
like Singapore necessitates this, and that’s what
we are working towards.
ESQ: Is there a specific piece from the AW15 col-

lection that you would recommend to the Singa-
porean man?
PZ: Definitely one of our classic jackets. We stud-
ied the contemporary combination, so you will
find it is a bridge between formal and informal.
It’s a different look, not like the jacket we know
from six or seven years ago. It’s a different inter- openings (of stores around the world), quality and Above
BOGGI’s AW15 collection is a
pretation of the informal style, while maintaining image (of the brand). In my opinion, it was a very symphony of blues.
the formal DNA of our suiting line. good period, where we worked very hard just to
arrive to where we are now. What we would like
ESQ: Is that why you decided to include more to do in the future is not only maintain our posi-
patch pockets this season? tion, but also try to improve it. The first 10 years
PZ: Patch pockets are in trend right now. We put was just a step, and we have a long way to go.
them on the jacket, because they lend a sportier
look. In my opinion, this, together with how the ESQ: Do you see yourself reinventing the jacket
jackets are unconstructed, gives them more ap- one day, or improving certain aspects of it?
peal. PZ: For us, it’s very important to not only study
new models, but also improve in terms of quality
ESQ: I think that’s a great step, because uncon- and details, both inside and out, such as having
structed jackets without the additional lining different types of construction, making the lining
are really easy to wear in our climate. You talk much softer and working on details that aren’t al-
about BOGGI being contemporary and mod- ways visible. This makes our clothing successful.
ern; do you see the brand doing more fashion-
skewed pieces? ESQ: Over the last 10 years, how has the style of
PZ: You know our DNA is formal, but we try to BOGGI pieces evolved since you took over?
approach every season in a new way, by updating PZ: The biggest difference is in the fit and the
our collection while maintaining our DNA. cut—it’s a little bit tighter, much more modern.
We have also changed the weight of our jackets.
ESQ: The brand is renowned for quality prod- Today’s customers prefer a comfortable jacket on
ucts that are value for money. Is that a position their shoulders, so it’s very difficult to find some-
BOGGI would like to maintain or is the brand one who needs the construction of 10 years ago.
looking to move up to a higher luxury tier? We have updated all our models, and want to con-
PZ: Absolutely not. We want to conserve this tar- tinue with this weight.
get (market) and improve on it. We know that
there are a lot of brands in the luxury line, but the ESQ: One last question: what are your thoughts
value for money that BOGGI provides is difficult on the style of the Singaporean man?
to find in other brands. So the customer will al- PZ: In my opinion, you find both formal and in-
ways come here to find great quality and fit at a formal styles here, [which is great as] BOGGI has
price that other brands might not offer. something for everybody. We hope to increase the
[the presence of ] the BOGGI style in Singapore.
ESQ: What do you think is your greatest achieve-
ment at BOGGI, and what do you hope to achieve ESQ: So basically, more Singaporean men
in the next 10 years? should buy BOGGI...?
PZ: In the last 10 years, we have increased our PZ: Yes, of course. (laughs)

Team TH goes long

It’s been a year of years for Tommy Hilfiger as he charges to the 30-year goal line of his brand.
Esquire tracked the busiest man in fashion across three continents and finally pinned him down
for some one-on-one time as he showed in London Collections: Men for the first time.
Words by Sam Coleman Photography by Tomo Brejc

To m m y H i l f i g e r looks out with charmed

bemusement onto the massive space of The
Armory in New York City, a contrary and
challenging space. He’s been here before, knows
it well and is a seasoned veteran of biting fashion
critiques, of sycophantic praise, of the immediacies
and transient nature of fashion. At this point in his
career, he’s earned the right to be blasé, certainly
relaxed. He’s built an empire, almost lost it and
reorganised it to come out swinging. He has a
three-billion-dollar deal under his belt, millions
in the bank and helms one of the most famous
eponymous menswear brands in the world. Chillax
could be his middle name.
But it’s not, far from it. He’s intensely involved
and nervously scans each look as it rolls off the
runway. He keeps the din of the backstage—one
of the most kinetic places on earth—in one ear
without distracting his attention. He looks like a
coach eyeing the field, which is ironic, because—
to everyone’s surprise—Hilfiger has turned The
Armory into a massive football field replete with
scoreboard, AstroTurf with yard markings and an
end zone with “Hilfiger” in varsity typography
(naturally). It’s a gamble, a showboat move that
some might like and others detest. But as the faux
stadium lights mark the end of the show, it’s clear
that Hilfiger has hit the moment right, blending
sport and luxury to capture a ripening fashion
moment.
And as this year marks his third decade as a
brand, this show, and the one in Beijing that will
follow, is just a part of his year of years. “Oh my god,
it really is,” Hilfiger accedes, when asked if he feels
that this is a peaking year, one that encapsulates
so much personal and brand history. “The Armory
show was so well received,” he says, “Then we took
the whole thing to Beijing. The thinking behind
that was to show the China market and customers
that we’re more than a women’s brand. Whereas in
New York, it was women’s fashion week and a lot
of the women’s editors don’t want to sit through
menswear. Such snobs!” And—like the NYC show—
Team TH killed it, spiked the ball in the end zone.
The next stop was London where—for the first
time—Tommy Hilfiger organised a presentation for
London Collections: Men. There was no stopping
the juggernaut of showmanship, a label that was “The first five years were
on a breakneck expansion (“We have 35 stores now sort of like building block
years—just establishing
[in China] and we’ll be opening another 75 or 80 and planting the seeds of
over the next few years [in China and India]”) and the brand. And then, in the
early ’90s, things started
extending its reach into tailoring, using new media taking off.”
in innovative ways, remaining relevant in a shifting —Tommy Hilfiger

and challenging consumer market. At nigh 60, the man who Idol. Tommy Hilfiger grew faster than anybody in
It was not always so. The beginnings of Tommy rode the dragon of fame the industry thought a brand could grow; it was
and success became a new
Hilfiger were simple; some would even say naïve. dad… and in many ways, ubiquitous, hip, urbanely desired. Even Esquire’s
Straight out of high school, Hilfiger started his it is his most satisfying legendary ad man, George Lois, created Tommy
iteration.
retail career at 18 by founding a store called Hilfiger’s minimalist, facially led advertisements.
People’s Place in his hometown of Elmira, New It was one of the first ad approaches where an
York with USD150, where he customised jeans idea rather than clothes were sold. From 1985 to
and bell-bottoms. A flood that gutted the original 1986, sales doubled to USD70 million. Within two
store and his constant partying in Studio 54 led years of operating at this level, 68 percent of New
to bankruptcy by 25. It made Hilfiger realise that Yorkers surveyed named him as one of America’s
he’d need more education and skills to lead his top-selling designers. The pace was frenetic.
next company to success. Undeterred, he moved to And—like the story of Icarus—the heat of
NYC and plotted his next move. success started melting the wings of ascension.
The early days in the city were bittersweet: the Hilfiger almost sighs remembering the frustration
smell of fashion money on every street corner of of those years, of realising that Murjani was
the Garment District was intoxicating. Hilfiger becoming corporately distracted with other
knew, given the right break of investment and activities like Coca-Cola clothing and Gloria
resources, he could get a foothold. But the mad Vanderbilt (Murjani would soon go bankrupt)
scramble of hundreds of would-be Calvin Kleins and the entry of a new investor in the form of
was a scrum he had to navigate. Offered jobs by Hong Kong businessman Silas Chou whose Novel
Perry Ellis and Klein himself, Hilfiger declined, Enterprises pushed Tommy Hilfiger to even
waiting for the wind to fill his sails. greater heights. The company hit USD500 million
That wind of change happened in 1985. Mohan in 1996 and was considered the best-performing
Murjani, an Indian textile entrepreneur, became apparel brand on Wall Street. Meanwhile, Hilfiger
the angel investor that Hilfiger was looking bagged the prestigious CFDA designer of the year
for. Murjani announced that it was time to go award in 1995 (after being snubbed in 1994). There
big and unseat Ralph Lauren in the category of was even a rumour that Hilfiger would take over
contemporary American fashion. “Well, the first Calvin Klein. Tag on the licences for fragrances,
five years were sort of like building block years— womenswear, scarves, a line for toddlers… and
just establishing and planting the seeds of the Hilfiger seemed invincible.
brand. And then, in the early ’90s, things started However, being chained to a public company
taking off,” Hilfiger recollects fondly, shifting his structure that barrels ahead in search of growth
smart Tom Ford specs and straightening the cuffs rather than sustainability can be lethal. “We started
on his blazer. A massive billboard erected in Times to go global. We started opening our own stores. We
Square announced that Hilfiger was one of the started branding in a much more significant way.
new princes of American menswear (“The Four But it grew too large in the ’90s in the US.” Would
Great American Designers” listed only the initials he have slowed it down if he had the power? “Yes.
RL for Ralph Lauren, PE for Perry Ellis, CK for But you know, we were a public company… It was a
Calvin Klein and TH for Tommy Hilfiger). The problem because we kept pushing and pushing and
move appalled the entrenched fashion hierarchy. pushing and it hurt the brand,” he admits wanly.
(Calvin Klein was supposedly so irritated that he By the early ’00s, the label started to feel the
accosted the billboard designer at a cocktail party.) stress of those decisions, sales dropped 30 to 40
But one man’s affront, however, is another percent in 2001, influencers deserted it and its sale
man’s bravado: Tommy Hilfiger emerged as a was nervously talked about. Nasty urban rumours
sassy, underdog brand decked out in preppy started like the infamous one that Hilfiger spewed
attitude, a far cooler Ralph Lauren. The emerging a racist comment in a hot mic moment with Oprah
hip-hop movement adopted the brand as their Winfrey (completely untrue—he hadn’t even been
apparel of choice. By 1994, Snoop Dogg had on the show at the time of the rumour—and Oprah
appeared on Saturday Night Live in an oversized and Hilfiger set the record straight as recently
Tommy Hilfiger shirt, its bold red, white and blue as 2013. “Big fat lie!” Oprah intoned). Sweatshop
reordering of Americana signification welcomed accusations, somewhat more factual, entered
the heady Clinton presidential years. Britney the news cycle in 1999 touching mostly on the
Spears, Mick Jagger and a slew of other rock Saipan manufacturing loophole that allowed many
celebs would sport Tommy Hilfiger wares on retailers, not just Tommy Hilfiger, to cite “Made
stage, prompting Hilfiger to declare his philosophy in USA” as a moniker, even as conditions were
of FAME as a marketing tool, where F=Fashion, sub-standard. (By 2012, after a fire in Bangladesh
A=Art, M=Music and E=Entertainment. It was a killed 29, Hilfiger became an industry advocate for
tool of brand persuasion that he’d use well, even garment safety reform, pledging millions of dollars
to the point of becoming a judge on American for fire inspection and other safety measures.) In

2005, Tommy Hilfiger was acquired by Apax, a carefully shaped and pruned started to pay off with
London-based investment firm, for USD1.6 billion, Tommy Hilfiger, the brand and the man being one
a large sum for sure, but by no means what the brand of the best-positioned players in Asia.
was worth (as we’ll soon see). Hilfiger lost control Even personally—after all the trials and
of the company, even though he retained creative tribulations with his family (he has four kids from
control. “There was a bit of a backlash, so we his first marriage) that saw his two oldest kids
restructured the brand [in 2006]. It was frustrating go through rehab and son Ricky/Rich Hilfiger in
because it’s like a locomotive train and you can’t a high-profile on-and-off relationship with Rita
stop it. But hey, it’s a learning experience,” he says Ora (they recently broke up)—Hilfiger has found
of those difficult times, an experience shared by his bliss late in life. Re-married to stunner Dee
other once hot, then not designers (Perry Ellis, Ocleppo in 2008, the couple had a child—Sebastian
Pierre Cardin) for whom it spelled the end. By all Thomas—in 2009. At nigh 60, the man who rode
appearances, the heydays were over. the dragon of fame and success became a new
Then, in 2010, Hilfiger dialled in, found his dad… and in many ways, it is his most satisfying
place within the macro machinations of the iteration. “Yeah, it keeps me young,” he says of
investors and the markets he loved to operate in. his new life and fatherhood as he breaks into a
Ajax sold on a high to Philip van Heusen (PvH), smile that speaks of satisfaction. “When my four
which owns Calvin Klein and IZOD, among others, children were growing up, I was so busy all the
and since then, the trajectory has been positive time I didn’t get enough time with them. Now I’m
with the core message of great style at affordable getting more time with my six-year-old than I did
prices. “I think affordable luxury is the sweet with my other kids. And the older children love
spot in the world,” Hilfiger declares with market him, so they’re always around,” he says sanguinely
evidence as his proof. And note that—unlike Calvin and affectionately. As he looks back at his life and
Klein and others that get bought in such deals and the 30 years of his brand, Hilfiger can certainly grin
retire into their payoff—Hilfiger is as vigorous and wonder at how crazy life is, how the fortunate
as ever, and still as involved both creatively and are the ones who get to stay active and relevant,
strategically. The global roadwork that had been and prove their vision of what can be.

On luxury, fave
designers and eating
rodents in China
Esquire gets exclusive time with Tommy
Hilfiger ahead of his London Collections:
Men SS16 presentation.
ESQUIRE: I notice you’ve been getting more Hilfiger is known for.

into your tailored look while still retaining your TH: People want great quality and great style, but
casual range. they don’t want to pay for it. Zara and H&M have
Tommy Hilfiger: You know, people think that shown the world that you don’t have to pay a lot of
I’ve just gotten into tailoring. We’ve been doing money for that.
tailored clothing for 20 years. But now, it’s just
becoming more important. ESQ: But their quality is terrible. It falls apart
after a few seasons.
ESQ: I suppose that’s because it wasn’t a big part TH: That’s true, but for women especially, it’s
of your messaging. But on reflection, tailoring like throwaway fashion. Men want something
was the first part of your career. more quality oriented. I think we’re giving them
TH: Yes, but that was more casual and denimwear. incredible quality at an incredible price.
But 20 years ago, we started doing three-piece
suits, blazers… all sorts of cool stuff. And now, I ESQ: The development of the men’s category has
think we’ve perfected it. Because I think that the been great; the bulk of your revenue comes from
quality is amazing. If you look at the top menswear womenswear typically, but the men’s segment is
brands, they make their suits in Europe and they rising faster.
use the same fabric resources. We’re buying Loro TH: Actually, our menswear is bigger than
Piana cashmere and linen from Ireland… we’re womenswear, and also growing faster.
using a lot of the same materials. It’s what you do
with it. And I think that what we’re doing with it ESQ: That must be satisfying as you’ve been in
now is the most interesting. that space since the beginning and now, so many
players are scrambling to get there, too.
ESQ: Just hearing you say that you are going for TH: Exactly, and womenswear designers are trying
the best fabrics, the best materials and all that, to do men’s. You can’t really name one womenswear
and therefore, you could be in a perceptually designer who does men’s fashion successfully.
higher category. But people think of it as more of
a high street brand, that that’s not what Tommy ESQ: Where do you think all this is going?

TH: I think there are men’s brands coming up Even though you’ve been going for a long time,
that are phenomenal. each year must be different.
TH: I think the biggest change is the real estate. It’s
ESQ: Like who? bonkers. And you can’t find really great locations
TH: Like Thom Browne and many others. They’re because all the big guys have taken them all. We’re
doing really interesting and challenging things. well positioned in the second-tier cities, but it’s
in Beijing and Shanghai that we’re fighting: it’s so
ESQ: China, New York, now London; what a year difficult to get triple-A locations. And if you can get
you’re having! This has to be one of your more them, you can’t afford them because the big guys
exciting years. are willing to pay more than you. It’s crazy. We
TH: It’s an exciting year. It’s a little sad in one way have 35 stores now and we’ll be opening another
though. 75 or 80 over the next few years.
ESQ: Why? ESQ: You could spend your whole time visiting
TH: Those 30 years are gone. And those 30 years stores that are opening in China and India alone;
were so exciting. I would say the first 15 years were that would be your full-time life!
the most exciting in building the brand. TH: [Laughs] True, but it’s fun and interesting.
ESQ: I guess that’s always the trade off between ESQ: Do you like Asia? Is this a second life after
getting the capital you need to grow and showing you’ve gone through the US and European
those returns. But it’s horrible to have to bet on markets?
failure to prove your point. TH: I’ve spent a lot of time in Asia over the years.
TH: Yeah, that’s exactly it and I don’t think they got Most of our sourcing is done in Asia. And as a
it. young man, before I even started Tommy Hilfiger,
I was travelling and sourcing in Asia. Going to
ESQ: But the good news came in 2010, with the factories and mills, going way, way out into No
new tranche and investors [PVH]. Man’s Land… people riding bicycles and wearing
TH: It’s been amazing. Great company, and I would Mao Zedong jackets to the factories. Not speaking
say we have more professional resources. a word of English. No highways, no air-conditioned
Mercedes… it was really pretty primitive.
ESQ: The analysis and forecasting seems to be
moving in your favour. ESQ: What was the most bizarre/surreal
TH: Except the euro is a problem for us. Tourism to experience in those times?
the US is down, too. TH: We went to visit a factory. The factory owner
talked to our agent in Mandarin and it was decided
ESQ: All the more reason why your entry into that he was going to take us out for lunch. So we
China has been so aggressive. drove off this rickety road, onto a dirt road. Where
TH: Yes, exactly. They have an enormous, growing were we going? We pulled up in front of this
middle-class and they’re the spenders because house, and on the porch, there were cages with
the wealthy travel. The elite like to buy in Paris, rodents. And there was a little conversation with
London and New York. But the growing middle- the restaurant owner about which rodent we were
class—which is about 500 million people—is almost going to eat. He went into the kitchen, brought out
double the size of the US. You go to the second- a club, grabbed this racoon-type creature, clubbed
and third-tier Chinese cities, places you’ve never it, carried it into the kitchen, all furry, and 45
heard of, and they’re 10 million. And the younger minutes later, brought us back this mound of rice
Chinese are very tuned into what’s going on: they with chunks of meat in it. It’s the best lunch that
can’t be fooled. I’ve ever had.
ESQ: Is that good in your eyes or something ESQ: Oh really?

intimidating: you’ve got to fight a lot more for it? TH: I had Chinese tea. [laughs] I wouldn’t touch it
TH: I think it’s good. Knowledge is power. and they kept trying to encourage me to eat it. I’m
like [puts hands out]… I was practically gagging.
ESQ: What do you see when you go to China? I’ll never forget that.

Back to basics
“What is essential is invisible to the eye,”
so said the Little Prince in Antoine de Saint-
Exupéry’s classic novel. Yet, for something as
intangible as style, honing in on the essentials
becomes a key part of the visual allure. We
go back to basics with Hedi Slimane’s Saint
Laurent collection and pick out six items
that should have a permanent place in your
wardrobe.
Words by Janie Cai
1.t he T ux e d o jac k e t: One of the most 2. Jea n s : Slimane revisits the skinny silhouette
important things that Slimane did for menswear at for denim that he first introduced at Yves Saint
Saint Laurent was create a new “Tailleur” atelier, Laurent in 2000 for the Black Tie collection.
which consolidated expertise unique to the label Skinny yet tough, the jeans are made of Japanese
with regard to structured tailoring. By ensuring a denim hand-woven on traditional looms. Each pair
focused production entity that concentrated solely features a signature double pleat on the middle
on the tailoring aspects of menswear, Slimane back. Denim is key for Slimane and included
deftly combined the tradition and the expertise of in every collection, with its presence felt in six
Parisian couture ateliers with his exacting vision distinct washes: black, raw blue denim, light stone
for the men’s collection. The result? An exquisitely wash, medium stone wash, heavy stone wash and
tailored tux. bleach white.

1 2 3
4 5 6
3. D u f f l e : Inspired by Slimane’s own travel bag, 5. B e lt: But not just any belt, Slimane’s singular
this sleek leather carry-all has a clean, understated vision resulted in the creation of the “3 Passants”
aesthetic that makes it easy to see why it tops the belt—a signature accessory that features three
brand’s best-seller list. modernist loops and a “Carré Rive Gauche” square
buckle in solid brass. (In case you’re wondering,
4.S n e a k e rs : From classic, minimalist models a “passant” is an image of a heraldic animal that
created in a black, navy and white palette to skater- faces left with its forepaw raised.)
style pairs featuring the classic Yves Saint Laurent
“Babycat” print, no other luxury brand has quite 6.Leather jacket: A wardrobe classic known
matched the breathtaking array of sneakers that for its utilitarian charm and masculine ruggedness,
Slimane has designed for Saint Laurent. The latest Saint Laurent’s leather blouson jackets are so
model—a metallic leather pair embellished with painstakingly crafted that they have become a
cut-out stars—is already a cult item. recognised symbol of expertise at the maison.
o pe n i n g im ag e by h e d i s l im a n e . ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 175

The jet set

Ferrari launches the latest rendition
of its popular fragrance.
The next generation of the Ferrari

Essence collection comes in
the form of a lighter but no less
luxurious fragrance. The Noble Fig
heralds the distinct Gran Turismo
spirit and is designed with the
same exacting standards for
perfection. Driven by notes of clary
sage, spicy peppercorn and sexy
undertones of musk and patchouli,
the fragrance begins strong but
soon mellows to a smooth finish.
Prancing horse fans will also
notice that the embellished sabbia Ferrari Noble Fig EDT
SGD127
beige leather on the bottle pays
tribute to the elegant GT interior.
176 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 P h oto gr a p h by e k ya p. wo rds by j oy l i n g. ST YL I N G BY L I M S I U FAN G.

ST Y LE — GRO O MING
you are in a high-level managerial position in a big

company, you have to care for your appearance
more than someone who owns a small company.
It’s kind of a competitive advantage as well. There
have been studies conducted on that actually, like
how much more you earn if you look a little bit
better. Even kindergarten kids are subconsciously
treated better, if they look better. The same ap-
plies to the business world. I can remember, after
the Lehman Brothers crisis in the US, the total
number of aesthetic treatments went down, but
the number of aesthetic treatments among males
increased, because the prevalent attitude was: “I
have lost my job and need to apply for a new one,
so I have to look better in order to be more com-
petitive.”
Fill ’em up
We speak with celebrity dermatologist Dr Tatjana Pavicic, along with Dr ESQ: What are the common procedures?
Karen Soh of Privé Aesthetics, to get the lowdown on the new hyaluronic DKS: Cheek: augment the cheekbones; they do
acid dermal filler Belotero®. For those with a low pain threshold, it also the chin because the jawline is a very important
comes with lidocaine. part of the male face, and also the brows for a
Interview by Lestari Hairul more masculine look.
ESQ: Is it something that you’d have to keep do-

ESQUIRE: What do men normally get fillers for? ing every year?
DR TATJANA PAVICIC: It depends; one common DKS: Yes. It lasts for about six months to a year. To
location is the tear trough area. Men don’t want to have something new like an augmentation, some-
look done, but they also don’t want to look tired. times, we have to do it once a month for about
And this area makes people look very tired. Or three months, and then we leave it, if the results
sometimes, it’s more their expression that they are good enough. After that, we do a touch-up in
want to change. Another thing is the threshold six months’ or a year’s time.
for a man to seek treatment. It is definitely higher
than women for several reasons: “Oh, I will look ESQ: If you do it on your nose, will it collapse?
too different”; “Maybe, there will be adverse ef- (We’re thinking of MJ here.)
fects and I won’t be able to wear make-up to con- DKS: No. It returns to its original shape eventu-
ceal it like a woman”; or “I’m not a metrosexual ally, because the fillers wear out, so they get me-
like David Beckham”. The fear of pain is probably tabolised.
the biggest deterrent. But once they start treat-
ments, they are much more likely to become ad- ESQ: Will you look worse after that?
dicted than women. DKS: You shouldn’t. In fact, hyaluronic acid, es-
pecially one with good tissue integration like
ESQ: Addicted? Belotero®, has been shown to stimulate collagen.
DTP: Almost addicted, really. I would call it ad- Some studies find that if you do consistent fillers
dicted, because they start to see the value and ac- over a period of time—I’m talking about five to 10
cept it. Men have a strong perfectionist streak. years—your skin quality actually improves versus
someone who doesn’t do anything. You lose col-
ESQ: What do Singaporean men normally get? lagen and elastin with age, so part of this collagen
DR KAREN SOH: It depends on the age group. stimulation is from hyaluronic acid.
Men who are 35 and above tend to want more on
the testosterone side, the alpha male kind of pro- ESQ: What is the average age of men who are
file. They want to look capable, groomed, like they seeking treatment?
take care of themselves. They don’t necessarily DTP: It’s actually younger men, younger than
want to be feminised. Then you have the young women even. Men usually start around 30. If you
ones who are more into fashion. They tend to be start earlier, you just need one to two doses, the
more adventurous: they want their nose bridge to treatment is much cheaper and it will last longer
be higher or smaller, or their chins to be round than if you were to start at the age of 60.
or even V-shaped. They take care of their skin, so
they don’t want any blemishes. To get filled up with Belotero® yourself, contact Privé
DTP: It also depends on your position in life. If Aesthetics at 6737 6639.
c o rbis ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 17 7

ST Y LE — G ROOMI NG
The not-so-battered foot

How both sandal loungers and endurance athletes can take better care of the
most abused extremity.
First, a question: Do you shy of the end of your toes skin below isn’t too raw, layer of petroleum jelly
wash your feet? As in, Your nails so that you don’t bash the sure, pull it off. over your feet nightly. Not
while showering, do you Everyone: Trim them, end of your nail into the toe enough to stain your sheets.
lift them up or crouch or leaving a short edge that box of your shoe step after Not beneath socks. Not in
sit cross-legged on the hangs over the end of the step. This should help avoid between your toes (keep
shower floor in your sailor toe. Cut them straight blackened nails—but also that area dry). The jelly
cap* and scrub them with across; don’t dig into know that you can safely That dryness will moisturise better than
soap? (Do not confuse these corners. Going too short grow out a black nail. As for Everyone: As you get older, lotions, which are water-
with just splashing them can lead to ingrown nails. a loose black nail: Fasten your sweat and oil glands based and don’t hydrate
around.) Many people— Athletes: Trim them just with a Band-Aid or, if the decrease. Spread a thin as well.
Olympic endurance athletes
included—forget this basic
hygienic process, which
This little piggy went to
would rid them of, say, three
bed and didn’t cause its
quarters of their problems. Those calluses
owner’s wife to recoil.
However, you can do more. Athletes: Building calluses
is your foot’s way of
cushioning its contact
with the ground. Wearing
Your shoes inserts like the Hapad sports
Everyone: Stagger two replacement insoles (hapad.
pairs. It takes more than a com) will minimise that
day for the sweat in your collision. You can also use
shoes to dry, but most the Emjoi Micro-Pedi callus
day-jobbers allow about remover (emjoi.com) to buff
half that between wears. them away, as the top layers
Dampness accumulates, of calluses are just dead
making your shoes a lovely skin anyway.
château for bacteria, which
smell, or fungi, which itch. *Note: Wearing a sailor cap
If needed, try common has no proven medical
talcum powder, too—or in benefit.
dire circumstances, a high-
caliber antiperspirant like
Certain Dri Clinical Strength
(shop.dsehealth.com),
which you can get without a advice from
prescription. an olympian
Athletes: Stagger two turned RUNNING-
pairs for dryness. But when store owner
breaking in a new set,
switch mid-workout instead With Bob Kennedy, former
of daily. Wear the new ones holder of the American
first to mould them into records for the 3km, two-
form, but put on the old pair mile, and 5km, and president
before the friction blisters of Movin Shoes.
your foot. (Yes, this requires
the purchase of new It’s partly about the type of
footwear before the current shoe. Most people pronate,
pair tears at the seams.) If meaning as their foot strikes
it’s too late, use antibiotic the ground, their
cream and a covering, like ankle rolls inward. Experts
a bandage or Spenco 2nd at your local running store
Skin (spenco.com), which can see whether you
adds a cooling sensation. pronate a lot. (The at-home
test doesn’t work well.) If
so, they may recommend a
denser midsole, the cushy
material of which works
Your socks against the pronation. But
Everyone: Use them. Wash it’s also about the fit. We all
them. Do not reuse them have different foot shapes
before washing them. and nuances to our toes
Athletes: See above. and arches. Experts can see
all that, too.
178 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 words by Rodney C ut l er.

ST Y LE — GRO O MING
No Sweat
A full-body guide to looking good in the heat.
For most of us—runners, roofers, poolside loungers—sweating is great.

It cools us. It makes our skin appear healthier. It is an accomplishment— Crotch sweat
except, well, when it isn’t. Like when you’re 15 minutes into a date or Jack Black Dry Down
Friction-Free powder
a presentation and your shirt is already soaked or your brow glazed. In
SGD27*
those cases, sweat makes you look not so much like a man who’s arrived Finally, pat some between
as a man who’s just been running from a large animal. your legs. Like other body
powders, it has cornstarch,
Fortunately, you can take control of when you perspire—no matter which absorbs sweat and
where it happens. Here’s how. other kinds of moisture
down there before it starts
to smell or, God forbid,
chafe. It also has green tea,
cucumber, lavender and
chamomile, all of which
soothe the skin, making it
quite refreshing.
Back sweat
Axe’s new Dry Spray
antiperspirant
SGD7*
Anyone who’s peeled his Pit sweat
back off a leather driver’s Viktor & Rolf’s Spicebomb
seat, and then speed-walked SGD40*
to his desk chair before If you’re already spray- Foot sweat Face sweat
anyone sees the Rorschach ing your back, you might Lavilin foot deodorant Kiehl’s Men’s
test on his shirt knows this: as well spray your armpits, cream Oil Eliminator 24-Hour
it’s time you treat your back too. Do this routine at night, SGD26* Anti-Shine moisturiser
like your armpits. Sweat when you sweat less and Runners like myself know SGD37*
glands work the same no your glands are more easily foot stench is a menace In the summer, switch to
matter where they are on suppressed. Also, on warm that can threaten a man’s a light facial moisturiser.
your body, so you can use days, avoid cologne—sweat relationship with his loved It won’t clog your pores—
the same antiperspirant strengthens its scent to a one. They should use the instead, it’ll use glycerin to
for your back as you use nauseating degree. Instead, odour-taming Apply it pull good moisture into the
for your underarms. Unless try a high-end scented de- only once a week to help skin and silica to wick away
you’re some kind of yogi odorant, like which will make preserve your sneakers (and sweat and oil.
who can rub a stick on your you smell a little like a grape-
your relationship).
spine, you’ll want to try a fruit wrapped in leather and
spray. fresh tobacco.
* d enotes tr a ns l ate d pri c es. WO R DS By Ro d ne y Cut l er. ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 179
ST Y LE — NOTI CE BOAR D
Choices, choices
Burberry raises the bar.
With over 7,000 variations to choose from, you can now get a Burberry scarf the way you have your
drink. Perhaps better. In celebration of the iconic cashmere scarf, the quintessential British brand
will be launching The Burberry Scarf Bar globally this month. Encompassing the complete range of
32 check colours and 33 solid colours in a choice of runway-inspired prints, the scarves can be further
personalised with two font sizes to monogram up to 30 letters in over 30 shades of thread. The service
is offered both in-store and online with luxury retail specialists at your assistance. In addition, all the
scarves come in either classic or lightweight cashmere and are woven on a traditional loom by skilled
artisans in Scotland for a soft hand-feel finish, making the end result the perfect gift bar none.
The Burberry Scarf Bar is available at the Burberry store, ION Orchard, #02-16.
Modern substance
Introducing new concept retail store Manifesto.
Leveraging on 15 years of industry experience,

French fashion designer Walid Zaazaa envisaged
a bold, ever-innovative space to house art,
music, architecture and fashion en masse when
developing a boutique/gallery. The concept of a
multi-label store has long ceased to be original,
but spanning over 60 brands of contemporary
fashion, lifestyle gadgets and more across
various price points, the democratic approach
of Manifesto is unflinchingly progressive. From
luxury to niche alternatives, most brands are
new to Singapore and fresh discoveries can be
expected every month. Complete with minimalist
lines, raw materials and abstract lighting,
Manifesto is a testament to how expansive
creativity can truly be.
Manifesto is now open at Capitol Piazza Mall, 13

Stamford Road #02-19.
180 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 wo r ds by j oy l i n g a n d ja n i e ca i.

ST Y LE — N OT I C E BOARD
Music treks
One small step for man…
Known for their expertise in hiking boots,

Bally has just released a new version
of the famed Reindeer Himalaya boots
Rebel with a cause worn by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay when he

conquered Mount Everest in 1953. Bearing
Veja continues its trek along the road of eco-fashion success. all the hallmarks of exceptional design
and comfort, they have been reincarnated
to traverse various terrains from
“Commercial disobedience” is what Veja founders François-Ghislain Morillion cityscapes to Jamaica’s Blue Mountains.
and Sébastien Kopp call their thriving sustainable-fashion business. They The Swiss luxury label has also joined
chose the Portuguese word for “look” as their label’s name because they hope forces with recording artist J Cole for
customers will take stock of their shoes’ ethical materials and manufacturing an exclusive pair of hiking boots and
process before making a purchase. Since its inception a decade ago, Veja backpack inspired by the urban explorer.
continues to rely on fair trade sources and support a socially conscious work The accessories will be offered in a range
system. Yet, style is never disregarded. The AW15 collection interprets volcanic of colours and materials from calf leather
landscapes as its colour scheme and the brand also has a tech-innovative range to exotic python. Check out the short film
of sneakers made with water-repellent B-mesh fibre—which is 100 percent Off the Grid produced in collaboration
recycled polyester—along with naturally dyed tilapia skin. With over a million with BBGUN at esquiresingapore.com.
pairs sold, Veja is walking proof that ethical fashion isn’t an oxymoron.
Check out bally.com for more information
The Veja FW15 collection is available at Common Thread, ION Orchard, #B2-18. on the J Cole X Bally boots and backpack.
Shirt tales
ButtonNStitch is back with a bang.
Local label ButtonNStitch made its quality dress shirts available to men
online three years ago. July saw the launch of its new collection, We Dress
Heroes, comprising four capsules with a total of 15 shirts. Each capsule
is released monthly, with the first, aptly named The Sidekick, created
to serve as your wingman for every occasion in life. We Dress Heroes
offers craftsmanship more synonymous with premium labels at a highly
competitive pricing range (from SGD69 to SGD89). Made of 100 percent
European cotton and uncompromised thread count, shirts come in both
slim and straight fit and you’ll be pleased to know that they have taken
Singapore’s glorious climate into account too, with two short sleeve options
in lightweight cotton. Just leave the superhero cape at home.
Check out buttonnstitch.com for the We Dress Heroes collection out now.

wat c h e s
Blue steel
If you’ve ever doubted the popularity of diving activities, all you have to do is take a look at
the islands off the east coast of Peninsula Malaysia, where the sport has mushroomed over the
last few decades, attracting practitioners both local and foreign. And Breitling has been right
there, since their first diver’s watch, Superocean, launched in 1957. But it is time for a complete
update, don’t you think? This year, they have launched a new Superocean, which is sleeker,
with a slimmer case that makes it particularly wearer friendly. The rugged body is made of
brushed stainless steel, which is water resistant to a depth of 200m. It also has a blue rubber
moulded unidirectional rotating bezel with 15-minute countdown marker, framing an attractive
sunburst mariner blue dial with white luminescent Arabic numeral hour markers, and repeated
on the hour, minute and second hands. The watch is driven with precision by an officially
chronometer-certified automatic mechanical movement.
182 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 * DENOTES TRANSLATED PRICES.

ILLUSTRATION BY YOHEI YAMAGUCHI.
WATC H E S — C O LU M N
Future ventures
Hamilton revives a cult classic.
Lo o k i n g at i t n ow, you would never believe

that this wonderfully futuristic-looking watch
was actually introduced in 1957 as the first elec-
tric watch. In 1961, it became known as the “Elvis
Watch” after the King of Rock and Roll wore it in
Blue Hawaii. Suffice to say, the Ventura by Ham-
ilton caused quite a stir with its triangular look.
Established in 1892, it is one of the great American
watchmakers that traces its beginnings to pocket
watches and later, timepieces for the railroad. To
mark its 80th anniversary this year, Ventura has
renamed the watch Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 and
spruced it up. It’s been given an all-black look with
a black dial and white Super-LumiNova hour in-
dexes and hands, with a red hand for the central
seconds. The good news is the latest edition beats
with an all-new heart by Hamilton. The in-house
calibre with an automatic mechanical movement
has 80 hours of power reserve.
WORDS BY LEONG WONG. ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 183

WATCHE S — PERPETUA L MOT IO N
Asia: Watch this space

After driving the growth of Mido for the past 20 years, Franz Linder, the brand’s President,
admits that he had serious concerns during the recent rise of the Swiss franc and the advent of
smartwatches. But with the dominance of Asia’s young and moneyed—and timepieces steeped
in history and fine craftsmanship—Linder is assured that the near-century-old brand will
continue to stand the test of time.
Interview by Zul Andra
ESQUIRE: How did Mido fare during Baselworld FL: The difference is between countries, not
this year? continents. What the Italians like in a watch is
FRANZ LINDER: Although Basel was a good completely different than, say, the Germans.
event for us, it’s more important for luxury watch
brands—it’s not like you order a Mido and get it 12 ESQ: What about growth? Is Europe the
months later. That being said, our outing was in dominant continent in this regard?
line with the past years, as we hit our projections. FL: Growth is driven by Asia—no question about
The most important thing during the fair is to get that. Not only for the watch market, but also for
a sense of which product has the most traction in everything else. Europe is an ageing continent. The
order to anticipate the scale of our next production. elders have everything they need, but in Asia, the
Similar to every year, we aim to sell more. young people are affluent, they appreciate life, and
Above they enjoy spending on nice things. We see less
The Mido Commander
II—for the everyday
ESQ: How is the watch market in Asia compared growth in Europe than Asia, where the market is
man. to the rest of the world? booming.

WATC H E S — PER PET UA L M OTION
ESQ: That’s interesting because I would have

thought that a lot of what we do in Asia is very
dependent on what’s happening in Europe and
the States.
FL: Asia holds two-thirds of the world’s population.
But there are unique differences within the
countries. For example, Japan is comparable to
Europe—it is a very mature market with an ageing
population. But if you talk about China, Malaysia,
Indonesia and Singapore, these countries are
growing nicely. It’s only a matter of time before
these markets shift as well. Demographics,
influences and behaviour will change along the
way.
ESQ: But don’t you think the mechanical watch

field is getting too crowded?
FL: More watch brands are entering the industry,
but if we look at the serious companies, there
aren’t a lot of them. I think the strong ones are
getting stronger and for smaller brands, it’s very
challenging to reach a certain level. Once you do, it was 30 years ago. That being said, there is a
it gets easier because then you are endowed with a market for both. If you are heading to work or
decent marketing budget and visibility. To become dinner, having a fine Swiss-made watch on your
a strong brand today is very difficult, if you don’t wrist is something you can enjoy and it lasts a long
have a solid base. Making a few watches isn’t that time. But if you’re going to the supermarket or
hard, but it is becoming more challenging to evolve exercising, you’ll want to know how much you’ve
into a serious player because the competition is walked or how well you’ve slept. In my opinion,
equally strong. these products will co-exist. Depending on the
occasion, one day you will put on a smartwatch and
ESQ: How did the appreciation of the Swiss the next, a mechanical watch. I think there are only
franc affected Mido? two product categories: one is emotion and the
FL: When it happened, it was such a drastic other, functionality.
change. Everyone was shocked because it was quite
unexpected. What we did was wait and see. You ESQ: In another interview, you mentioned,
never overreact—that’s the first thing. Then once “Mido is a brand for someone who is looking for
we realised that the situation would be more or a good watch but does not want to show off.”
less the same, we started calculating the impact FL: You know very well that almost every watch
and took the appropriate action. Increasing prices brand is using testimonials and the fame of a
was the easy option and could have been quickly celebrity to bring up the value of their product. Top
executed, but the effect would have been very Mido doesn’t do that. Our communication is linked Mido’s President, Franz Linder,
has been with the brand for
drastic—not only for Mido, but for the Swatch to architecture, which is unique. Our statement is two decades.
Group as a whole. We were very reluctant to do so. timelessness, long-lasting designs. And for me, a
Below
As we saw it, the Swiss franc exchange rate was testimonial has no link to a brand. It can change The Mido Commander
fluctuating somewhere between 1 and 1.10; we any day. It’s just a matter of how much you pay Chronograph Calibre 60.
increased prices in Europe but, luckily, we weren’t for it. So I think the credibility of our brand and
obliged to in other parts of the world. You see, if we the promise that we give are more consistent than
had increased prices by 10 percent, your salary will using a testimonial or being celebrity-driven. It’s a
not grow by the same percentage. So we tried to statement that is still true.
maintain a good price for our customers.
ESQ: You’ve been with Mido since 1995. What
ESQ: And the price points for smartwatches do you think makes the brand strong?
are comparable to that of high-end mechanical FL: Consistency. It was back in 1998 when we
watches. repositioned the brand. And since then, the work
FL: We are consumers as well, and whatever we has been consistent in terms of brand promise and
do, we need to put ourselves in the position of product development. Our customers appreciate
the consumer. The price points for smartwatches this. The watch industry is a long-term business
are very sensitive. Electronic products always get and I think a big part of our success is due to our
cheaper. I was in the electronics business [before consistency. Don’t cheat the consumer; they are not
working for Mido]. A TV today is cheaper than stupid. Always keep your promise.

Last frontier
When you think there’s nothing else a watchmaker can do to make their timepieces
aesthetically appealing, along come astral objects. Jaeger-LeCoultre has found a way
to make their timepieces even more precious than they already are.
Words by Leong Wong
Su f f i c e to say, Jaeger-LeCoultre never says After nearly two centuries of making precision
no to a challenge. Over the years, we have seen how timepieces, inventing and innovating from re-
the watchmaker has put a spin on tradition with its nowned clocks and pocket watches to wristwatch-
own modern interpretation and continued to inno- es to capture the breakdown of time into fractions,
vate 250 years of watchmaking tradition. it’s only appropriate that Jaeger-LeCoultre should
For 2015, Jaeger-LeCoultre has planned some- feel that it’s time to dedicate an entire collec-
thing special and out of this world for all their fans tion to the astronomy that gave us the concept of
and watch lovers out there. They have decided time. With all their know-how and mastery of the
to dedicate the entire SIHH 2015 collection to as- art of haute horlogerie, it is a good time to put all
tronomy. You may ask why this indulgence over as- those resources not only into good use, but also to
tronomy? It’s because our earthly hours are dictated demonstrate that the manufacture still has what
by the positioning of the stars and the planets, and it takes to create the best timepieces around. To
Above astronomers use them to calculate the seasons, the complete the watches, they even included some
The night sky that
inspired the 2015 SIHH
months and the days. Mariners use them to deter- heavenly bodies themselves to make them even
collection. mine their location and find their way home. more astronomical aesthetically.

as the tourbillon rotating in its cage or entrancing

as a minute repeater, but it is as engaging because
it tells you the time for decades, if not a century
or more, without you having to adjust anything as
long as you keep it moving.
Jaeger-LeCoultre may already have the Tour-
billon Quantième Perpétual in its Master Grande
Tradition collection, but this one is special, as it has
two unique features that others do not possess, as
well as a couple of variations. The Quantième Per-
pétual, which is also known as the Perpetual Cal-
endar, is laid out in three sub-dials located on up-
per three-quarters of the blue dial. The date indi-
cator in white transfer Arabic numerals with a red
“31” is positioned at nine o’clock with a silver hand,
while the white gold ring at 12 o’clock is the month
indicator with its unique feature of zodiac signs
Master Grand Tradition Great Complication positioned just below the month. It also shares the
The depth of space is depicted by a sunburst blue windows for the year indicator. A variation from
dial with the constellations decorated in white that the other, the Day and the Moonphase indicator in
are positioned across the heavens. Used to tell the white transfer are located at three o’clock with the
time on Earth from the northern hemisphere, it is day on the outer and the moonphase on the inner
also known as Sidereal or Equation of Time. It is position of the dial. They are indicated by longer
the most accurate way of measuring time, so the and shorter hands, respectively. The central hour
tourbillon carriage is affixed to the rotating dial markers are appliqué silver toned baton, while the
with a ring to signify the portion of the sky from hour and minute hands are silver toned.
which we can view the constellations. It moves The other unique feature in this timepiece is
counter-clockwise across the dial and each revo- the tourbillon. It has a cylindrical-shaped balance
lution is 23 hours 56 minutes and four seconds, spring; it is fixed onto the bottom, and raises above
which is three minutes and six seconds short of and beats continuously which guarantee precision.
our conventional civil time. Treat that as a luxury As the case is made of titanium, it is very light and
that only a few will know the exact sidereal time. strong, making it appear like it is levitating. Perfect
On the outermost flange lies the month and as- for the two-tier dial that it has. It is also a minute
trological zodiac sign which indicates where each tourbillon and acts as the small seconds.
of the sign starts and ends across the year. A small The engine of the watch is an automatic me-
sun in gold is the civil time and it moves around the chanical movement, which is made up of 431 parts
dial in 24 hours. It is indicated by the silver ring of and beats at a high frequency of 28,800vph with 45
the inner bezel with black Arabic numeral 24-hour hours of power reserve. Everything is housed in a
markers, to help you tell if it’s am or pm as it corre- white gold case.
sponds with the civil central time with gold hands
and gold appliqué indexes on top of the silver inner
bezel. To give it an even more entertaining aspect,
the Grand Tradition Great Complication comes
with a minute repeater with a rather bold reso-
nance. With this spectacular timepiece, you not
only have visuals to titillate you, but also sounds to
seduce you aurally.
This marvellous time machine is powered by a
hand-wound mechanical movement with silicon
escapement, which consists of 527 parts and an
ébauche in German silver, beating at a high fre-
quency of 28,800vph with 40 hours of power re-
serve. The entire fascination is enclosed in a pink
Above
gold case. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master
Grand Tradition Great
Complication in pink
Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique gold case.
à Quantième Perpétuel
Left
When it comes to functionality of a timepiece, Master Grand Tradition
Tourbillon Cylindrique à
the one grand complication is, without doubt, the Quantième Perpétual in
perpetual calendar. It may not be as entertaining white gold.


A new key
Unlike the automobile industry, the watchmaking world rarely sees the introduction of
an entirely new watch. So when there is such an occurrence, it tends to generate a wave
of interest, especially when it comes from Cartier.
Words by Leong Wong
R ar e ly d o yo u s e e a watch design that veers round, but for Clé de Cartier, it is shaped like a key,
from the usual shapes of round, square, oval, rect- and inspired by the keys used to wind old mechani-
angular or tonneau. This is mainly because the de- cal devices. Winding the watch with the key has its
sign of cases is dictated by the shape of the move- advantages: the bar-like shape enables you to wind
ment, which in turn dictates the shape of the gear- it with ease. It took a year to perfect the key’s de-
ing, which is determined by the laws of science. sign, but the result is a watch that is every inch a
Cartier with art deco as its signature theme.
T h e watc h m a k e r The engine making its debut with Clé de Cart-
Watchmaking is a very conservative business, un- ier is one of the latest mechanical movements de-
less you are a company like Cartier. As a jeweller, signed, developed and made in-house, and beau-
the nature of their business is to create something tifully decorated and hand finished. A little tech-
new regularly to capture their clients’ imagination, nological improvement was given to the barrel: it
and experimenting with shapes is what they do best. now rotates rapidly, which leads to tremendous
Since making their very first wristwatch in 1904 for accuracy, as the burst of energy is constant and
the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, they continuous. The automatic winding mechanism
haven’t looked back and have continuously created is bidirectional using the lever system, and keeps
new shapes, many of which are still available in power in reserve for up to 42 hours. The new Cali-
their collection today and considered iconic. bre 1847 is cleverly named after the year that the
The most important criterion for a watchmaker company was established.
in order to be taken seriously is the ability to cre- If you are one who loves all things classic, Clé
ate everything in-house. And since the early 2000s, de Cartier is certainly one to put at the top of your
Cartier has re-established itself as a serious watch- watch wish list. It has ticked all the right boxes and
maker because they have set up a completely new has a robust movement with a considerably well
manufacturing facility that produces over 90 per- thought-out mechanism to give it great precision.
cent of all their components and parts, as watched Overall, this beautiful, versatile and classic time-
over by a talented team that has become the envy piece, with a rather superbly executed mechanism,
of their competitors. This independence means is well worth investing in.
that Cartier now creates some exciting new time-
pieces, not just aesthetically, but also mechanically.
Facing page
Clé de Cartier, side view with The new kid
the curve caseband. This year, Cartier introduced an entirely new
Below timepiece: Clé de Cartier. But why is it called Clé,
The insides of the Calibre which is French for key? The aim was to create a
1847.
watch that is simple in its design and comfortable
Right
The Clé de Cartier in its
to wear. The case has a classic tonneau shape that is
splendor. imbued with round edges and smooth surfaces. Its
curvature allows it to sit on the wrist beautifully and
appear smaller than it actually is. It is not only aes-
thetically pleasing, but also ergonomic. The bezel is
a tubular ring framing the round face of the watch.
Everything about the silver dial bears a strong hall-
mark of Cartier aesthetics, from the multi-pattern
finishing to the sunburst-finished hour band with
blue transfer Roman numerals. The centre dial,
where the central time is located, is decorated with
flinqué guilloché and blue steel hands.
There’s one unique feature that led to the
watch’s name. The winding crown is usually

WATCHE S — Bas e l R e p o rt
Even more wonders

The major trends that will be adorning your wrist for the next 365 days and beyond.
Words by Leong Wong
Hublot
Jaq u et D roz
Grande Seconde Deadbeat
Deadbeat seconds is an old complication that we don’t
see very often nowadays. It works with a second hand
that moves on every second to its next mark. Sound
familiar? Very much so, because it moves like a quartz
second hand. The Grande Seconde Deadbeat is a re-hash
of an old movement and it is a fascinating proposition for
a mechanical watch where, in this case, is prominently
placed. The upper smaller dial contains the central hour
and minutes with black transfer Roman numeral hour
markers, along with a larger retrograde date dial. All
the hands are in gold and they sit on an ivory grand feu
enamel dial. This marvel is powered by an automatic
mechanical movement housed in a red-gold case.
H u b lot
Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5-Days Full Magic Gold
Hublot celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, with a timepiece that bears all its DNA.
Rendered in a special alloy—called Magic Gold that boasts a unique shade of the precious
element—the bezel frames a skeleton dial with gilt Arabic numerals, hour markers and
indexes and skeleton hands coated with black Super-LumiNova. A gilt sub-dial for the five-
day power reserve indicator sits at nine o’clock, while a gravity-defying tourbillon is found
at six o’clock. The watch is powered by an in-house developed and produced hand-wound
mechanical tourbillon movement.
Big Bang Ferrari Speciale Grey Ceramic

This is a partnership that couldn’t be better
matched and the Ferrari Speciale Grey Ceramic,
which draws inspiration from NART (North
American Racing Team) livery, is no exception. C o ru m
What was once difficult to achieve is now Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 60th Anniversary
mastered, as grey ceramic has been chosen It has been 60 years since Corum was first founded with
as the key material for the entire casing of this the main agenda of creating outstanding timepieces
relatively low-key timepiece. The dial, which is based on unorthodox ideas. To celebrate, they have
composed of a blackened mesh inspired by the created a watch that shows off their technical know-how:
grill of its namesake car, is adorned with rhodium- a gravity-defying flying tourbillon. This most complicated
plated grey ceramic Arabic hour markers and of Grand Complications is contained within a red-gold
indexes, and hour and minute hands coated with dodecagonal case—a shape now synonymous to Corum—
white Super-LumiNova. The second hand is tipped and appears to float when viewed through the smoky
in red varnish, while the minute counter has a red grey sapphire crystal. The sapphire dial is decorated
varnished hand with a date window positioned with 12 transfer hour pennant markers and a retrograde
at the 15-minute mark. A UNICO mechanical date semi-dial between 11 and one o’clock. The time is
automatic movement with flyback chronograph indicated by gold skeleton hands, which are turned with
function ensures precision timekeeping. precision by an automatic mechanical movement.

WATC H E S — Bas e l R e p o rt
S e i ko
Grand Seiko SBGH039
Nostalgia seems to be the trend this year, and Seiko have
dug out their very first automatic for the occasion: the
original 62GS from 1967. Superficially, only small tweaks
have been made, but the real difference lies at the
heart of the matter. The SBGH039 is equipped with the
latest Calibre 9S85, which has a high-speed regulating
system that hums at a very cool 36,000vph, instead of
the nominal 21,000vph—and this is something that very
few watchmakers can do. And to top it all off, it also has
magnetic resistance of 4,800am, which is more than
enough for your everyday needs. The latest model has
a brown sunburst dial, which contrasts beautifully with
the steel baguette hour indexes and the classic dauphin
hour, minute and second hands. The brushed polished
stainless steel case houses an automatic mechanical
Rado
Hi-Beat movement.
DiaMaster Grande Seconde
Rado never once neglected their commitment to being the forerunner in creating the latest
high-tech materials. The Grande Seconde references a classic design previously found in
pocket watches. The main black dial accommodates the central time and the big seconds
comfortably. In addition to a date window, the big seconds is decorated with Arabic numeral
minute markers and a gold hand, while the central time has gold appliqué hour indexes and
hands. Beneath the dial is an automatic calibre ETA 2899 mechanical movement—all housed
in a black high-tech ceramic case.
HyperChrome Match Point

They don’t come any more handsome
than the latest sports watches carried by
Rado to commemorate British tennis ace
Andy Murray. And if you had any doubt
about where Match Point’s inspiration
came from, look no further than its main
identifying feature: the racquet strings
on the sub-dial at six o’clock for the hour
counter. The grey version is understated
yet rather attractive with its sunburst
Fo rt i s grey dial with Super-LumiNova rhodium-
Orchestra plated appliqué index hour markers, and
This versatile classic fills a void in the Fortis range. The repeated on the skeleton hour, minute
latest addition to the company’s otherwise sports- or art- and chrono central second hands. The
oriented watches, gives its collection a new dimension. two other sub-dials are at nine o’clock
The “love-at-first-sight” watch is the embodiment of and three o’clock for the 30-minute
simplicity, with its clean lines. Its matte silver opaline counter and continuous seconds counter
dial is decorated with slim gold hour indexes and black respectively. What drives the time is
transfers, as well as gold hour, minute and small second an automatic chronograph movement
hands. There is a small second counter at six o’clock with 42 hours of power reserve, which
and a date window at six o’clock. This slim beauty has an is encased in a matte plasma high-tech
automatic mechanical movement. ceramic case.

WATCHE S — Bas e l R e p o rt
Lu m i n ox
Recon Leader 8840 series
One of the most attractive features is the alarm function
where your split second actions can be timed to the last
fraction, as your life and that of others might depend on
it in a reconnaissance operation. And this watch that’s
built and made for an army recon unit leader is certainly
more than good enough for civilians like us. It has a
walking speed tachymeter in kilometres or miles per hour,
a countdown quadrant for start time coordination in a
contrasting colour, and a bezel compass to help establish
your position. It also has a chronograph function and
a world timer. All indexes and Arabic numerals are
laminated by Night Vision tubes, which last for 25 years.
The watch is powered by a quartz movement and housed
in carbon-reinforced PC. Ready to roll?
Lo n g i n e s
Heritage Diver 1967
As diver’s watches seem to get even more outlandish, Longines has decided to look to the
past—where sports and elegance merged comfortably—for inspiration. And the Heritage
Diver 1967 is exactly that. Here, its classic aesthetic is the attraction. The Bordeaux
unidirectional rotating bezel with Arabic numeral minute markers contrast with the black
opaline dial, which also houses silver and black sub-dials to give it added readability. The
minute counter is at nine o’clock, the hour counter at six o’clock and the minute counter
at three o’clock. The dial is further demarcated with Super-LumiNova-coated hour indexes
for night reading, a feature that’s repeated on the rhodium-plated faceted hour and minute
hands. The central chrono second hand is rhodium-plated, as are the counters’ hands. The
tachymeter scale in silver is located on the outer flange. This classic timer’s machine is run
by an automatic mechanical movement with a column wheel chronograph with 54 hours of
power reserve.
Gucci
Dive XL
This has all the right ingredients for
a serious diver’s watch, yet it is also
imbued with classic good looks.
Water-resistant to a depth of 200m, this H a m i lto n
classic sports watch looks right at home Khaki Chrono Worldtimer
with the current trend that favours This watch was designed in collaboration with
matte black dials. The compulsory world-famous aerobatic pilot Nicolas Ivanoff, and
unidirectional rotating stainless steel that translates into form and function above all else.
bezel sits on the stainless steel case. The Khaki Chrono Worldtimer is one watch that you
Luminous appliqué hour indexes and shouldn’t leave home without, when you embark on
hands further enhance underwater your next thrill-seeking expedition. It has a black dial
legibility. The watch is powered by an with Super-LumiNova appliqué Arabic hour markers
ETA quartz movement. and nickeled hands coated with white Super-LumiNova.
The outer flange is marked with 24 cities according to
their individual time zones. A mode selector for time
or chrono function is located at 10 o’clock, while the
indicator is at one o’clock. The chrono minute counter is
at six o’clock and the hour counter is at 10 o’clock, with
the chrono second counter centrally located. The hour,
minute and second hands are centrally located. A day/
night indicator sits at one o’clock. The quartz movement
that powers the watch is housed in a stainless steel case.

WATC H E S — Bas e l R e p o rt
C h o pa r d
LUC Quattro Rose Gold
Since establishing their LUC watchmaking department,
Chopard has regained its reputation as a watchmaker.
The classic watches that we’ve seen over the last decade
have been something of a marvel, and their adaptation
of classic pieces with a touch of modernity is working
like magic. The LUC Quattro in rose gold is made even Zenith
more stunning by the brown sunburst dial adorned with Elite 6150
gilt Roman numeral hour indexes and faceted gilt hands. El Primero may have hogged the limelight at Zenith for most
The power reserve indicator and the date and second of the company’s 150 years in existence, but only the true
counter are at 12 o’clock and six o’clock respectively. This connoisseur will know the hidden charms of the Elite range.
classic beauty is powered by a hand-wound mechanical Its smooth classic lines speak of an aesthetic that will last
movement with a nine-day power reserve. forever. This elegant timepiece has everything that you
could ever desire in a watch: that is, the ability to tell the
time with precision, while delivering timeless versatility at
the same time. Its stark beauty is evident in its matte silver
dial with thin, brushed polished baguette hour indexes and
three slim elongated leaf hands. Its heart beats with an
automatic mechanical movement, which has 100 hours of
power reserve on standby. This study in simplicity is housed
in a stainless steel case.
T i f fa n y & C o
Tiffany CT60 3-Hand
After lying low for a few years, the
almost 180-year-old American jeweller
has decided to revive their watch
offerings with a brand new collection.
The CT60 range captures the Tiffany
spirit and its strong American heritage.
This can be seen clearly in the CT60
3-Hand, with its white sunburst dial
with an Art Deco touch. Apart from gold
transfer Americana Arabic numerals,
the classic month indicator is located
at six o’clock, while a slim central hand
with blue-tipped arrow indicates the
date, in blue transfer on the outer
flange. The watch has an automatic
G l as h ü t t e O r i g i n a l mechanical movement that beats within
PanoMaticLunar a rose-gold case.
Glashütte Original, one of the first German watchmaking
companies founded 170 years ago, was re-established
in 1994, and it continues to produce releases inspired
by their archive. Veering not far from their DNA, but
with a modern vision infused with technology, the brand
has become much sought-after. The PanoMaticLunar
is a utilitarian classic in its most absolute terms. It has
a solid rose-gold case that frames the galvanised black
main dial, with off-centred large and small sub-dials
that overlap. The large dial hosts the main central time
with gold appliqué hour indexes and hands, while
the secondary dial indicates the small seconds. The
moonphase indicator and the large date are at two
o’clock and four o’clock respectively. The watch is run by
an automatic mechanical movement.

Sweet
temptations
N ot e v en yo ur PA R T N E R ’S w i l es c o u l d re l ie v e yo ur w rist
o f t h ese B V lgari beauties.
P h oto g rap h y by M ar c us wo n g
te x t an d st y l in g l e o n g wo n g

Diagono Magnesium
Stainless steel and magnesium case with ceramic
bezel. Dial in three colour variants: copper brown
with black hands and hour markers; anthracite grey
with rhodium hands and hour markers; and deep
blue lacquer with rhodium hands and hour markers.
All hands and hour markers are coated with Super-
LumiNova. Automatic mechanical movement.

Octo Finissimo
Pink-gold case. Black polished lacquered
dial with gold Arabic numerals and index
hour markers. Small seconds at seven
o’clock. Gold hour and minute skeleton
hands. Ultra-thin hand-wound in-house
mechanical movement.

Octo Octo Retrogradi
Stainless steel case with crocodile strap.
Blue enamel dial with jumping hour and
retrograde minute, all in Arabic numerals.
Retrograde date at six o’clock. Rhodium-
coated hands. In-house automatic

Diagono Pro
Left:
Pink gold case with rubber strap. Black dial with gold
Super-LumiNova coated hands and applique hour indexes.
In-house automatic mechanical movement.
Right:
Stainless steel case and bracelet. Black dial with Super-
LumiNova-coated hands and appliqué hour indexes.
In-house automatic mechanical movement.

Left:
Diagono Chronographe
Gold and stainless steel case and bracelet. Gold bezel
with white dial and gold Super-LumiNova hands and
hour markers. Three sub dials: continuous seconds,
chrono 12-hour counter and chrono 30-minute counter.
Automatic mechanical movement.
Right:
Diagono Automatic
Stainless steel case with steel and gold bracelet.
White dial with gold hands and hour markers.

THE
There is no compromise when it comes to the

standards of beauty.
Photography by
luna
words by
leong wong

Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak Chronograph QEII Cup
2015 Limited Edition
Titanium case. Silver dial decorated
with “Grande Tapisserie” guilloché
and white-gold luminescent ap-
pliqué indexes and hands. Three
sub-dials in grey ruthenium and
outer zone. Automatic mechanical
chronograph movement.

Hermès
Dressage l’Heure Masquée
Rose-gold case. Opaline silver dial
with guilloché centre and gold
appliqué Arabic numerals and
Super-LumiNova gold hands with
hour hand on demand. Automatic

Left
Bulgari
Octo Finissimo
Rose-gold case. Black lacquered dial
adorned with gold indexes and Arabic
numerals. Gold facetted hands. Small
seconds at seven o’clock. Ultra-thin
hand-wound mechanical movement.
Right
IWC
Portugieser Annual Calendar
Red-gold case. Silver-plated dial with
appliqué gold Arabic numeral hour
markers and gold hands. Month,
date and day display between 11 and
one o’clock. Small seconds at nine
o’clock. Power reserve at three o’clock.

Left
Corum
Bubble Skeleton
Stainless steel case, open dial with hour
and minute index markers on the outer
flange. Blue steel hands Automatic
Right
Cartier
Clé de Cartier
Pink-gold case. Silver dial with guil-
loché centre and blue transfer Arabic
numerals. Blue steel hands. Automatic

Left
Piaget
Altiplano
Pink-gold case. White dial with
black baton indexes and black
hands. In-house automatic me-
chanical movement.
Right
A Lange & Söhne
Saxonia Automatic
Pink-gold case, silver dial with
appliqué baton hour indexes
and gold hands. Small seconds
at six o’clock. Hand-wound

DRINKS
Souped-up tea party

Step into The Rabbit Hole but toss away the tea leaves, as you’ll be wanting something a wee
bit stronger, once you’re whisked away to the weird and wonderful world of gin. Ignore the
literal hole in the wall—it’s good for cheesy Instagrams, but you’ll merely roll into the field on
the other side and startle some denizens. We choose the Whitley Neill out of their Complex
& Unexpected section, and this African-inspired but made-in-England London Dry blows our
previous presumptions of the spirit out of the water. Light pink, belying the utterly smooth
spicy-citrus of its taste, you could easily guzzle this straight. We say try it with the house-made
tonic for a slightly more civilised time. At first sniff, the Rabbit Hole tonic appears savoury,
but a whole new flavour profile opens up after it’s mixed with the gin—the citrus peel and the
spices of the tonic punch up and draw out the mouth-watering bursts in the gin. For an extra
SGD2, you can also have it with an East Imperial, in case you’re feeling a little malarial. Fizzier
than with the house-made, its clean and unobtrusive character lets the bitter gin shine through.
Garnish with a grapefruit and gooseberries, and you’re good to go. Just don’t get too weirded out
by the topiary, once Gin O’clock dries down.
The Whitley Neill Gin & Tonic is priced at SGD18 and available at The Rabbit Hole, 39C Harding Road.
208 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 WO R DS BY L E STA R I H A I RU L . I L LUESQUIRE

ST R AT I O N BY carmen
FEBRUARY 208.
c hen
2015
D RI N KS — I N SPI R I TU S
Going, going, gone

You’ll want this in your cabinet.
We’ve all seen them—in the news,

online, even within the pages of this
illustrious rag. The expensive whisky
purported to have been licked by
unicorns and set to age in the belly of
a phoenix. All sure to bring you great
returns at some point in the future,
when nouveau riche Chinese buyers
no longer clog the market. Or still do,
since they’re likely the ones who’ll
still buy a whisky that’s flash over
good taste. But this one here, virtually
anyone with a heart for the rare
and the exquisite will agree, is the
real deal. Karuizawa distillery only
exists now in the annals of history,
but the precious few casks left over,
when it was mothballed in 2000, still
live on in 143 bottles. The ones from
1964, at least—and as long as no one
has finished his or her bottle. Near
impossible to procure since they were
snapped up by early investors, two
can be found right here in this city.
It’s a 48-year-old, well known for its
sublime taste, folks. You’ll want to
bleed for the price and hold for several
more
The Karuizawa 48 Year Old 1964 Cask #3606 is
priced at SGD35,000 and available from Wine &
Whisky, 92 Neil Road.

DRINKS — I N SPI RI TUS
How far would you go for a drink?

Four far-flung cocktails for adventurous barflies, each discovered by a master British mixologist.
Words by Rachel Fellows
Soju
South Korea
Typically lower in alcohol content than many spir-
its, soju is South Korea’s number one liquor (singer
Psy is its poster boy), and one of the biggest-
selling spirits in the world.
What is it? Made from rice, wheat or barley, the
distilled beverage contains ethanol and water that
works the palette on the sides of your tongue and
kicks when it slides down your throat. It is best
sipped neat from a shot glass from a bottle on ice;
and it pairs surprisingly nicely with whisky.
Taste Neutral to begin with, it surprises with
a vodka aftertaste, though not as overpowering.
“Sweet and Smoke” Method

Using a marble plate,
• 40ml Jinro Soju burn a little sherry
• 20ml Laphroaig wood under a rocks
whisky glass, catching the
• 15ml Bamboo smoke. Stir all ingre-
syrup dients into a mixing
• Smoked sherry glass. Add ice (typically
wood glass a cocktail cube) then
pour the ingredients
over ice in the glass.
BAIJIU
China
Be careful, this stuff is strong.
What is it? Made from sorghum and other grains
and vegetables, including wheat, barley, rye and
peas. It’s created through saccharification, fermen-
tation and distillation. Due to its unique character
and high alcohol strength, it’s drunk at meals and
toasts but a more approachable style is being
produced. Serve it either mixed in a cocktail or
straight up with stir-fried or richly flavoured dishes.
Taste Fruity to start, then grassy and herbal.
“Yáng Walker” Method

Muddle the rosemary
• 10ml Dah Chu leaves then com-
Chiew baijiu bine with all other
• 25ml Johnny ingredients. Shake
Walker Black and double-strain into
Label whisky a coupette glass. Gar-
• 10ml Umeshu nish with a small sprig
liqueur of rosemary.
• 10cm rosemary
sprig
• 10ml lime juice
• 35ml grapefruit
juice
• 4 drops ginger
bitters

D RI N KS — I N SPI R I TU S
Aquavit
Norway
This pungently herbaceous Nordic staple is gain-
ing favour (probably because it can floor hardy
drinkers with barely a sniff).
What is it? Like gin, it’s made from a neutral spirit
(distilled from grain or potatoes) then infused
with herbs and spices. I prefer the Norwegian
aged “linie” aquavits, named after the process of
shipping oak barrels from Norway to Australia and
back, thereby passing the equator (“linie”) twice
before being bottled. The movement and changes
in temperature create a unique ageing environ-
ment that hasn’t been possible to replicate on dry
land. Drunk at meals, most often celebrations, it
pairs with salty foods, pickles and seafood.
Taste Ranging from crisp and clear to almost
whisky-like for some aged varieties. Dill and cara-
way give a savoury, medicinal character.
“Nordic by Nature” Method

Combine all ingredi-
• 35ml Linie ents, shake well and
aquavit strain into a chilled
• 15ml St Germain cocktail glass. Garnish
elderflower with cornichons.
liqueur
• 15ml Kümmel
liqueur
• 15ml lemon juice
• 5ml pickle brine
ARRACK
Sri Lanka
We need to get on this already.
What is it? Coconut flower sap is collected early
morning by “toddy tappers”, men who tightrope-
walk from tree to tree. They cut the stem of the
coconut flowers and drain the sap. The day’s heat
turns it into “toddy” (palm wine); sugarcane and
grain (typically red rice) are then added. High-
quality arrack should be drunk with subtle citrus
flavours such as lemon or orange, or even just with
an ice cube and a bit of water. Otherwise, it can
be paired with wine-based spirits and natural fruit
flavours.
Taste Subtle anise notes; it’s most often described
as a mixture of rum and whisky.
“Gymkhana Arrack Method

punch” Combine first six in-
gredients together in
• 30ml Ceylon a 110ml punch bottle.
arrack Pour bottle mix over
• 20ml Pampero ice in a rock glass. Stir.
Especial rum Float the dark rum on
• 15pcs fresh top like a Mai Tai. Gar-
passion fruit nish with passion fruit.
• 15ml Gomme syrup
• 40ml Ceylon
green tea
• 3 dashes
lavender bitters
• 25ml dark rum
• Half a passion fruit

DRINKS — PERPETUAL TAST E
For every ill and for E v e ryo n e w h o r eg u l a r ly showers his or her

liver that one step closer to cirrhosis has a tequi-
every good: a mezcal la story. You know, the one where you’ve tossed
and tequila primer the last coin and want to call it a night in a big
way. And then you wake up several hours later
The quintessential drinks of Mexico have yet to in regrettable conditions. The better if you’ve
hit the Singaporean scene in a big way, tequila been blessed with amnesia as to what really went
shots at the end of the night notwithstanding. down, but with digital evidence? You’re basically
We explore the production of mezcal and
and swear off the drink for another wild
tequila and the ways to drink them the
right way. night at least.
Our story doesn’t start with tequila. It starts
with mezcal and ends with tequila, without any
of the embarrassing moments, except quite an ab-
normal amount of good cheer. Top
With mezcal, sipping the drink and munching Just a small selection of
mezcal and tequila from
on worms (yes), you’re only hit with the gravity El Mero Mero’s extensive
of what you’ve done quite a bit later as it sneaks collection.

DRI N KS — PER PET UA L TASTE
up on you. Innocuously enough, it goes down same agave varietal being grown in the area.
smooth and, we like to think, is quite a bit like “Agave is grown in the main mezcal-producing
a good single malt in its complexity. But when states of Durango, Guanajuato, Guerrero, Oax-
you’re not used to it, just two hours later, with six aca, San Luis Potosí, Tamaulipas, Zacatecas and
glasses swimming around in your gut, you find Michoacán,” says Eggleton. Michoacán was only
your formerly introverted self flitting about an recently added to the list of states in the Denomi-
event intent on making everyone your best drink- nación de Origen, which determines the place of
ing buddy, while extolling the virtues of mezcal. origin for mezcal. That being said, mezcal is pro-
No, there’s no mescaline in it, nor is it in any way duced in 20 states all over Mexico, both of the
made of a psychoactive plant. legal and the homestead production varieties. As
But we digress. It begins, as always, with an in sweet, sweet moonshine. “Probably, the most
initiation. well-known mezcal comes from Oaxaca; how-
Orlando Eggleton, General Manager of Mexi- ever, the best ones come from Durango, Guerrero
can restaurant El Mero Mero, takes us on an in- and Michoacán, from very specific regions with
troductory trip with four bottles of mezcal, one very specific agaves,” continues Eggleton.
bottle of tequila for comparison and a plate of As for taste, it differs wildly indeed. In a cock-
orange slices laced with ground-up worms and tail, it adds an intriguingly hard to discern taste,
salt. What? Yep. Sal de gusano is the quintessen- and unless you’re familiar with mezcal, its smoky
tial ingredient to your mezcal-drinking experi- complexity throws you off a little. A mezcal mar-
ence. Certainly not one to lick pre-shooting; in garita rounds off our initiation. With several more
fact, you shouldn’t be shooting the mezcal at all. bottles to taste at El Mero Mero, alas, we have to
Instead, the proper way to indulge is to sip it as embark on tequila next. Tasting tequila after mez-
if it were a fine whisky, and then have an orange cal makes the former a little bit sterile and flat.
slice sprinkled with crushed salted worms. Spicy. Pardon the blasphemy, but the closest we can
Eggleton demonstrates: first take a small sip, let think of is the comparison between vodka and
it roll about your tongue, hold it, and then swal- whisky.
low as you open your mouth to breathe out. Then At Hombre Cantina, a Mexican bar right
do it again. It is in the second sip that you fully smack in the middle of Boat Quay, Manager Pe-
experience all the flavours of the mezcal that are lagio Manalang, explains, “Tequila is made from
actually quite smoky. blue agave only within the region of Tequila. Nor-
Top
That comes from the production process. A bottle of tequila, aged at mally, it’s double-distilled, but some tequilas un-
Made from the agave plant, which looks like a least for a year, and not for dergo triple distillation, changing the strength of
shooting.
cousin of the pineapple (although biologically, the alcohol and its smoothness.”
Bottom
they’re actually very distantly related up to the The Hombre Cantina. Cock-
If it’s inscribed “100 percent Blue Agave”,
class of Liliopsida), mezcal derives its name from fights not included. you’re in with the better stuff. But if it isn’t, there’s
the ancient Aztec word for “cooked pineapple”.
The heart of the agave is stripped of its leaves, cut
up and roasted in a kind of rudimentary oven. It is
this roasting that gives mezcal its smoky flavour.
After being dried, the hearts are then pulped
by a massive, again primitive-like, grinder pulled
by a donkey or a mule. Then water is added, and
the concoction is fermented, and later distilled.
This whole process and its component parts re-
main unvaried no matter if it’s a fancy, more ex-
pensive mezcal or something modest and entry
level.
Terroir, too, is important to mezcal. In the
same way that sherry ferments by way of the
yeasts that naturally form on the wine in the very
specific areas in Spain where sherry is produced
(see the April 2015 issue of Perpetual Taste), the
airborne yeasts in Mexico play a part in the taste
of the resultant drink. With over 150 different
types of agave in existence, the different states
produce different-tasting mezcal, even with the

DRINKS — PERPETUAL TAST E
at least 49 percent Blue Agave, with the rest made Top old men who frequent bars in Mexico, you too
Mexican cuisine and drinks, all
up of other types. Eggleton’s words from the ear- in at CHIjMES. can spend the afternoon with a bottle sipping and
lier session surfaces in my mind: “Normally, those watching the world go by. Preferably with some
Bottom
types of tequilas aren’t your favourite tequilas. Another bottle of Arette, this sangrita on the side to clear the palate. Piquant,
That’s not what you’re going to have in a really one’s artisanal. pungent and tasting a little bit of salsa, tradition-
good store or a good restaurant. That’s gonna be ally, there’s actually no tomato in it. And though
in a very sketchy bar in the United States. We’re the tequila and the sangrita will each be served in
very proud of our product, especially when it’s a shot glass side by side, neither is meant to be a
well done.” All delivered with a grin. chaser for the other. Once again, as if we haven’t
Like many bars serving good tequila, Hombre emphasised it enough, sip and sip them good.
Cantina typically holds three different varietals Best with the more astringent blanco, though you
to each tequila brand, sometimes four. Housed can also have it with the reposado.
in virtually identical bottles differing only in de- On our palate, the tequila, even aged, is a lit-
scription, and sometimes labelling, it is the colour tle less delightful to be sipped, compared to the
of the drink that informs you of the age and the mezcal, but we attribute it to years of straight up
flavour. The darker the tequila, the longer it has shooting nasty tequila in grotty bars more than
been aged in an oak barrel. to the characteristic of the tequila itself. With a
“There’s the blanco, the reposado and the añe- bit more time and careful appreciation, there will
jo. So the blanco is basically the purest flavour of perhaps be room for an afternoon of tequila sip-
agave and it’s unaged. After you ferment and distil ping in the works one day. Maybe before a siesta.
it, you put it in the bottle straightaway. The repo- Oh, and the worms, the scorpions and all that
sado is rested in the oak barrel for a minimum of jazz at the bottom of the bottle? They’re really
six months to 364 days, which is still counted as just there for show. Studies conducted in Mexico
less than a year. You can see that the longer you demonstrated marked chemical changes to the
age it, the more you get complexity of flavour, the tequila when a worm was added, but as a sign of
more characteristics you get from the barrel. And purity or authenticity, you don’t need a drowned
then, when it comes to the añejo, you rest it for creature in the bottle to determine if your tequila
one to three years at least,” explains Manalang. or mezcal contains actual good stuff. You can use
The last category, usually in a special, more ex- the Tequila Matchmaker app to pick the ones
travagant bottling, is the extra añejo where the from retail. Or do it the old-fashioned way. Just
tequila has been aged for a longer period of be- head to the bar and request for an education from
tween three and five years. the barkeep. You’ll be lolling about in true spir-
Just like mezcal, shooting tequila isn’t stand- itual communion in no time.
ard practice. Particularly with the older, aged
varietals, the tequila transforms into something El Mero Mero is located at CHIJMES, #01-20 30
complex that you’ll want to swish in your mouth Victoria Street. Hombre Cantina is located at 53
for a bit. And it goes without saying that like the Boat Quay and also conducts regular tequila ap-
preciation workshops.
D RI N KS — N OT I C E BOARD
When the grandstand is

too mainstream
Watch the race 33 levels up.
With the F1 season in town, you’ll want to have the best seats
in the house to catch all the revved-up action. Or not. We all
know the actual best place to watch the race is on TV, but if
you want to join the fray and party it up while watching the
fast cars do their thing, why not do it in the sky? LeVel33, of the
world’s highest urban micro-brewery fame, offers an excellent
view of Singapore after dark with the racetrack in full glory
both in realtime view and via television screens inside. With
pints of beer to boot. And if you’re even thirstier, get a party
of six and share two beer-tasting paddles, six craft beers and a
choice of a sharing board. Food’s excellent here, too.
For SGD33++, a 0.3l glass of craft or a house pour and a

magnificent view. A Terrace Table Packege of up to six guests can
be arranged for SGD333++ Call +65 6834 3133 for reservations.
A tipple and a puff

Raffles Hotel’s Bar and Billiards Room is back in business.
There’s a small case to be made, cancer aside, for enjoying drams with a finely
rolled stick of Cuba’s most famed export. And now that the Bar and Billiards
Room is restored to its former glory—no more lunches and dinners on the
programme—you can once again have your whisky where they once shot the
infamous tiger. A grand selection of 450 whiskies, including excellent Japanese
and Taiwanese ones, and a specially curated group of 300 Scotch malts
unavailable elsewhere are at the ready. To roll with the Havanas, the Fuentes and
the Partagás, you’ll need to get on their database, and then be invited for one of
their Gentlemen’s Nights.
Whiskies start at SGD16 a 4cl dram and can go up to a few hundred based on rarity.
Whisky appreciation dinners can also be arranged. Contact +65 6412 1816.
Champagne dinners over brunches

Dom Pérignon rolls out exclusive dinner experiences in some of Singapore’s
best restaurants.
Yes, yes, champagne brunches are a grand thing—if you’ve just arrived and haven’t
quite gotten used to the windfall package yet, that is. For another novel experience,
have the Dom Pérignon 2005 Vintage with your dinner or lunch instead. Up till
the end of the year, eight restaurants will be offering specially curated meals
paired with the champagne, including the ever-scrumptious Gunther’s at Purvis
Street. You’ll have your pick of the type of cuisine you’d like and they’re all meant
to pair terrifically with the bubbly. And if you round up your mates to the tune
of 10 and more, you’ll be treated to an even grander Dom Pérignon experience at
your restaurant of choice with all the fancy trimmings, including complimentary
bottles. The whole thing is a bit of a secret and we can’t guarantee that you’ll
receive the same treatment, but when we tried it out, we were driven around in a
stretch limo popping bottles like ballers...
The Gastronomy Journey by Dom Pérignon is available at the following participating

restaurants: One-Ninety Bar and Terraza at Four Seasons, Bacchanalia, Gunther’s,
Fat Cow, Bedrock Bar & Grill, Dolce Vita at Mandarin Oriental, Kaiseki Yoshiyuki
and Yan Ting at The St Regis.
wo r ds by l e sta r i h a i ru l . ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 215

MACHINES
The sound of silence

“I think the way we find our place in the world is through sight and touch, but a huge
percentage is through sound,” says film composer Hans Zimmer with a pair of Here Active
Listening System plugged into his ears. Developed by Doppler Labs with a USD635,189
Kickstarter backing—and a USD17-million investment—Here isn’t about listening to better pre-
recorded music; it’s about giving you the controls to hear what is around you. Through an app,
Here employs a series of algorithms to modify certain frequencies. Cut out the wail of a baby,
the roar of a car engine or a specific type of noise pollution. At a concert, increase the treble,
mid or bass—if you are all about that. Although settings like “compliments only” have not been
developed, we still think that this is a pretty useful device.
The Here Active Listening System is priced at SGD348* and available only for the first 2,855 backers. It ships in December
2015. Put yourself up on the waitlist at www.hereplus.me and receive updates on the next batch of release.
216 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 * D E N OT E S T R A N S L AT E D P R I C E .

WO R DS BY Z U L A N D R A . I L LU ST R AT I O N BY E ST H E R G O H.
M AC H I N E S — A PPA R ATU S
Bas i c i n st i n ct:
m o r e g r e at
s i n g l e-us e p ro d -
u cts wi t h n o
t r i m m i n gs
AeroPress
Forget “aroma settings”
and “programmable
coffee grinds”, this
plastic contraption
makes amazing
espresso in just
30 seconds.
K i n d l e Voyag e
High-resolution screen,
haptic page turns and
slim, ergonomic design
make this the best
e-reader going.
Dialled down
It’s still smart. And it’s still a phone. What more do you need?
I n 20 1 0, Yale University computer scien- device strips functionality back to phone calls
tist David Gelernter called for an anti-Inter- and text messages, plus a diary and clock func-
net movement, a “group of intellectual dis- tion. The MP 01 also boasts a monochromat-
sent that asks us to slow down”. Others pre- ic surface, punchy buttons, a 2in LCD display
dict a broader anti-tech backlash. We’ll just say and a huge battery life. You can’t go online or
Pound
this: at Esquire, we love a gadget. But some- tweet. It hasn’t got a camera. It’s just a well-de-
Shav e C l u b
times (when we’re balancing a tablet on our signed product intended to do one thing—be a A budget mail-order
arm to check Instagram on our Apple Watch, phone—and do it well. razor blades service that
aims to—in the words
for instance) even we have sympathy for this “We hope it will offer a bit of a digital de- of US trailblazers Dollar
kind of talk. After all, isn’t technology sup- tox,” Punkt founder Petter Neby says. “Or you Shave Club—“shave
time, shave money”
posed to make life simpler? Maybe it’s time to can carry two phones: one for work, one by providing no-frills
declutter? for pleasure.” Hang on, doesn’t that sound products without
Enter the MP 01, a mobile phone from Swiss like more clutter? Either way, it’s a lovely a vibrating handle
in sight.
brand Punkt. The Jasper Morrison-designed phone. SGD507*; punkt.ch
* DENOT ES T R A NSL AT ED P RI C E . ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 217

Wo r ds by J o h n n y Dav i s. P h oto g r aph by Rowa n F e e .
MACH IN E S — A PPA R AT US
Made of sterner stuff

If you’re after a new bike, start with the right raw material.
Dropping a couple of grand on a set of wheels is easier than you think.

But before you do, make sure you get the right bike for you. That means
thinking about not just the geometry of the frame but what it is made
of. And, crucially, that it is the right size. “What’s important is that the
bike fits the rider correctly,” says Philip Burnett, director at London cus-
tom bike shop Mosquito. Here’s his take on what you should be riding.
218 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 Wo r ds by J im M errett. P h oto g rap h by O l ly B ur n.

M AC H I N E S — A PPA R ATU S
Steel Titanium Carbon fibre

The Escapist, from Equilibrium, from Guru Photon V4, from
SGD4,347*, by Mosquito SGD6,195*, by Genesis SGD6,521*, by Guru
Best for: commuting Best for: light touring Best for: all-out performance
If comfort is top of your list, stick to “It’s a more expensive material and This Canadian bike boasts a sub-kilo
steel. “It’s strong and can be made quite it’s harder to work with,” Burnett frame, but weight can be overplayed.
stiff, but still gives you that bit of flex says. “But it’s stronger and generally “If you add the componentry and the
on the road,” Burnett says. It also has lighter than steel and it won’t rust. rider, it’s less of a factor. At the cheap
the advantage that it is easy to machine, Plus, it still has that nice road feel.” end, aluminium might be better. But
meaning you can get a frame tailored As a result, Genesis’s Equilibrium at the top level, there are advantages,”
to your exact specifications. The is flexible—it will hold its own in Burnett says. Bikes like this can be fun
Escapist is Mosquito’s new own- faster rides, but there’s scope to sling to ride—that isn’t always the case with
brand bike, hand-built in Brighton on a rack and mudguards to tackle pro bikes. “Tour riders aren’t paid to be
from Italian Columbus steel. “It’s the daily slog to work. The perfect comfortable, they’re paid to perform.”
quite lively and not boring to ride.” year-round, all-weather ride.

MACH IN E S — AUTOM OT IV E
Fast and curious

Three wacky racers built to attack the tarmac.
Words by Will Hersey
There are occasions in life when something as dull and conventional as a “car”
just won’t cut it. Who wants a roof, rear seat and four wheels when there
are road-legal rides like these three to be driven instead?
Cat e r h a m
S e v e n 270
Engine
1.6-litre Ford
Sigma Ti-VCT
Power
135bhp
0–60mph
5secs
Top Speed
122mph
2 20 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015

M AC H I N E S — AU TO M OTIV E
For weekend
wa r r i o r s
Caterham Seven 270
The Japanese marque’s latest
attempt to throw a grenade into
the “ -quick coupé” market
dominated by the BMW M4 is
definitely striking to look at,
thanks to a grille design only
previously seen on industrial
barbecues. As you’d expect, it’s
pretty much good at everything
and full of technical gizmos—the
inside has more buttons than
a haberdasher. And with 467bhp,
it makes the kind of satisfying
sound that frightens children
and the infirm.
F o r o ff - r oa d
s h e n a n i ga n s
Ariel Nomad
Brilliantly imagined, expertly crafted
and ridiculously good fun (0–60mph
in 3.4secs), the Nomad is to off-
roading what British marque Ariel’s
original car, the Atom, was to the
racetrack. It’s basically a modern-
day dune buggy that’s just as
capable cruising around the city
as it is exploring a field, track or
beach. Thanks to an ingenious
suspension and some very clever
engineering, the Nomad will take it
all on with aplomb.
F o r c o u n t ry- l a n e
cruising
Can-Am Spyder F3
It’s easier to say what the Spyder
F3 is not rather than what it is, but
that’s part of its charm. The three-
wheel design makes more sense
when you’re sitting on top and
soaking up your surroundings. It’s
slick, secure and, yes, a bit silly but
it packs a punch and handling is a
breeze. It’s hard not to enjoy every
second you’re perched on top of
this truly original cruiser.
ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 2 21

MACH IN E S — NOTI CE BOA R D
Survival of the fittest

Combine horror movie tropes and a different sort of game mechanic
and you’ll get a scarefest you’ll never forget.
Ever sat through a horror movie where a half-clad cheerleader on

hearing something outside the house, decides to go outside to check
it out? And did you scream at the screen, “No, you idiot! The killer’s
out there! Go back in, lock the doors, grab a kitchen knife and call the
po-po!” If so, do you think you can do better? The latest survival horror
game from Sony and Supermassive Games is Until Dawn and it has a
unique game mechanic where the choices that you make—no matter
how big or small—will affect the survivability of your eight characters
throughout the night. It’s a twisted butterfly effect that will have you
Zoom-zoom
making snap decisions, where the outcome is in the hands of fickle Fate.
And the game is tailored as such that you won’t grasp the totality of the
story, so you play again, and again. With every new choice made, the Making a scooter ride look good again.
game reshapes itself. Before you know it, you’ve played the whole night
through and you still want to go back to it again. There’s no shame in not having your own car,
so we go for the next best thing: a personal
Until Dawn is only available for the PlayStation and retails for SGD69.90. electric vehicle (PEV). The INOKIM QUICK
2 electric scooter is light (14.5kg by electric
scooter standards), intuitive (displays battery
life, distance travelled, speed control) and sturdy
(with 10in pneumatic tyres). It can traverse long
distances and carry a load of up to 120kg (believe
us, we tried). So, while the jury is still out on the
whole legality of riding a PEV on the sidewalks
(don’t be a doofus and act like a hell rider on
wheels), you might as well get the INOKIM
QUICK 2 electric scooter.
The INOKIM QUICK 2 retails for SGD1,995 and

can be purchased at falconpev.com.sg
NSPACE
The people behind storage space find commonality with
the people behind the Apple.
Having an in as a third-party accessory provider with

Apple is notoriously hard, but that doesn’t stop Sandisk.
Those guys with the storage tech that rivals Felix’s magic
bag have come up with the iXpand Flash Drive for the
iPhone and the iPad. Imbued with Apple’s proprietary
Lightning connector for the quicker transference of files,
the device boasts deft content playback. The rubber arm of
the connector allows for flexibility when connected to an
Apple device and, other than the user-friendly interface, the
iXpand Flash Drive has its own internal battery (it charges
when connected to a computer).
The Sandisk iXpand Flash Drive comes in four capacities—

16gb, 32gb, 64gb, 128gb—and retails from SGD88 onwards.
2 2 2 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 wo r ds by way n e c h eo n g

M AC H I N E S — N OT I C E BOARD
What’s UP dog?
A better activity tracker.
From the makers that brought you speakers that look like a
Lego brick comes this UP3 multi-sensor activity tracker. The
thing about activity trackers is that data produced is only
limited to it picking up body motions, but the UP3 sees that
claim through with a little something called “bioimpedance”.
The system measures the resistance of body tissue to tiny
electric currents to capture a wide range of physiological
signals like heart rate, respiration rate and galvanic skin
response. It might not sound like much, but the more data the
tracker collects, the better your health profile.
The UP3 by Jawbone retails for SGD309.
Window to a new world

How Microsoft got its groove back: meet the Windows 10.
When Microsoft announced its latest OS—Windows 10—we

hoped it would wash away the bitter taste that is Windows 8
(“Where the hell is the Start menu?”). Well, you’ll be glad to
know that not only is the Start menu back, but Windows has
got its groove back, too. Its Edge browser will also replace
Internet Explorer thanks to its Inking function that allows
for annotations onto a browser page and the ability to open
multiple desktops. And this is just the tip of the iceberg of
what Windows 10 can do.
Those using previous Windows versions (7 and 8) can upgrade

to 10 for free, but for users whose current Windows devices are
not eligible for a free upgrade, the OS is retails for SGD229 for
the Home edition, and SGD399 for the Professional edition.
Zen in your hands

Say “om” to the new smartphone from ASUS.
ASUS’ latest keynote address continues with its meditative

mindfulness of design and tech with the ZenFone 2. It’s hard to
wrap your head around the fact that a 64-bit 2.3ghz Super Quad-
Core Intel Atom processor and a 4gb dual-channel DDR3RAM are
contained within a slim 3.9mm-edged casing (the bezel width has
been decreased to make provision for a bigger screen). Plus, it looks
good and sits comfortably in your hand. And with its recent addition
of two more colourways—red and gold—you should have no more
doubts about owning this Android smartphone.
The ZenFone 2 retails from SGD429 at the Best Denki, Challenger,

Gain City, Harvey Norman, MC2, M1, StarHub and Singtel shops, as
well as the ASUS Online Store store.asus.com/sg

Esquire 10
W h at l i e s b e n e at h
Peel away the layers and give in to your baser instincts.
Words by Janie Cai
Photographs by Dmitry Zhuravlev
Styling by Maria Yankovskaya
1.
G i v e n c h y G e n t l e m e n O n ly Casua l C h i c E DT
The original Gentlemen by Givenchy fragrance was released in 1974. Its third interpretation,
Casual Chic, is a woody, spicy scent with alluring top notes of juniper and cardamom that
segue into a heart of birch and cedar. Perfect for the laid-back gent.

2.
E m p o r i o A r m a n i L eat h e r s l i p- o n s
As Mr Armani celebrates the 40th anniversary of his brand, these relaxed
kicks would be the perfect pared-down shoes to underscore the moment.

3.
B OSS Woo l su i t
You don’t need to be subtle when you’re chairman of the board. But you do need some
serious suiting and this blue pinstriped piece gives you just the panache you need.

4.
Lo n g i n e s F l ags h i p t i m e p i ec e
Longines made its first foray into exploration with Prince Luigi Amedeo of Savoy, Duke of the
Abruzzi, as part of his Arctic expedition. This blue dial beauty is a Russia-exclusive (we have
the bracelet version in Singapore), but that just means you’ll be doing a little exploring of your
own if you decide to hunt it down.

5.
P e u t e r e y N y lo n f i e l d jac k e t
There’s always room for one more jacket, especially when it is this lightweight yet hardy
option from a brand that’s named after one of the most fascinating ridges on Mont Blanc.

6.
D’S Da m at C ot to n s h i rt
The cornerstone of a working man’s wardrobe is the classic white shirt.
This fine example from Damat feels like second skin due to its 70/1 Egyptian cotton.
For those who want to mix business with pleasure.

7.
L ac ost e C ot to n p o lo
There are polo T-shirts, and then there are icons of style. René Lacoste’s contribution
to fashion has remained firmly ensconced in the echelons of the latter.

8.
S o n y A 1 5 Wa l k m a n
Remember your first Walkman? Well, this sure ain’t it. Sony has come up with the world’s
smallest and lightest Hi-Res audio digital music player. With an S-Master HX full digital
amplifier, this little thing isn’t afraid to get loud.
ESQUIRE
ESQUIRE AUGUST 2015 231
SEPTEMBER
9.
D o lc e & Ga b ba n a C ot to n h at
Old Blue Eyes knew the charismatic allure of a jauntily angled hat and it seems
that with this smart windowpane check trilby, Italian design duo Dolce & Gabbana
are just as clued-in to this hat trick.

1 0.
C o r i n t h i a H ot e l Lo n d o n
This grand Victorian building, standing proud in the centre of London and dating from 1885,
has been given new life with refurbished rooms, stylish suites and imaginative penthouses
offering state-of-the-art 21st century luxury. In other words, it’s the perfect haven for a well-
travelled man to rest his weary bones.
ESQUIRE
ESQUIRE AUGUST 2015 233
SEPTEMBER
TR AVE L
Solar juice
As every survivalist will tell you, you need a bug-out bag kitted with items essential for
your survival—both the physical and the mental kind. Alright, so technically you don’t have
to live your life in a permanent state of paranoia, waiting for D-Day to happen. But you’ll
still want something that can easily charge your devices, especially if you’re part of the
mobile workforce peddling your livelihood by way of a laptop and an Internet connection.
Something like this will come in handy for those moments when you can’t find a serviceable
power socket. Plant yourself anywhere sun-drenched and once the Voltaic Battery is juiced
up by way of the solar panel, you can charge your devices. On an island vacation but insist
on roughing it out? No problem, a mere 90 minutes in the sun will keep your phone from
running on empty. That’s a snooze session in the sun right there.
The Array Solar Laptop Charger is priced at SGD538* and available from voltaicsystems.com/array
234 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 * D E N OT E S T R A N S L AT E P R I C E .

WO R DS BY L E STA R I H A I RU L . I L LU ST R AT I O N BY E L L A Z H E N G.
tr ave l
the six o’clock Artist Cocktail Hour rolls in.

Wa n d e r lust:
Top
An artist’s impression of
the Vagabond Hotel.
Unique to the Vagabond, an Artist in Residence
W e lc o m e to programme with an ever-changing list of paint-

ers, sculptors, writers, photographers and think-
t h e Sa lo n ers will be the main draw of the Salon. Just like the
salons of the Paris of yore, the artist of the season
Vagabond Hotel. will hold court with exhibitions, performances or
Words by Lestari Hairul simply mingle with guests. It’s meant to be a gath-
ering point and a reflection of Singaporean society
and the kind of cultural mixes that erupt into new
ideas, conventions and initiatives or simply spark
of entertaining ingenuity. Could we perhaps dare
T h at’s Sa lo n , w i t h o n e “o” . Less bar envision an evening of burlesque behind the red
brawls and wenches, more intellectual pontificat- velvet curtains? The setting certainly demands it.
ing, and men and women in powdered wigs. Or With the partying dwindling as the night winds
so it was in the women-led salons of the Enlight- down, head up to your room via the brass pachy-
enment Age, at least. Taking the spirit, minus the derm-flanked lifts. Garcia’s hand in the rooms, all
wigs and the philosophies of crusty, old white men, 42 of them, including two Artist Ateliers to house
newly opened Vagabond Hotel too has a Salon. the rotating Artists in Residence, is evident in the
Step into the hotel and you’re immediately en- tasteful art adorning the walls, and even in the cu-
sconced in the plush environment of the Salon— rated selection of in-room films. And in fact, true to
tomato-red sofas line the farthest walls and dot the the spirit of the hotel, art is everywhere to be found
5,000sqft main floor. As envisioned by acclaimed in this restored ’50s Art Deco property, personally
French designer Jacques Garcia for his first hotel sourced and commissioned by founder Satinder
concept in Asia, the place is all luxe Parisian chic, Garcha himself.
with moody lighting including floor-to-ceiling You’re well insulated from the heat and the
gold Banyan tree pillars with eye-commanding crowds of nearby Little India. But you won’t need
brass foliage. A rhino greets you at the reception, to venture far for a taste of real-world Singapore
but hold on, not up to your room just yet. Lured outside of the fantastic experience of the Salon. A
by the smells emanating from the 5th Quarter, the Chinese temple attached to the side of the Vaga-
food establishment set up in collaboration with bond continues to co-exist harmoniously with the
Unlisted Collection and headed by Executive Chef hotel, their decades-old altars and accoutrements
Andrew Nocente, you’ll while away your Salon refurbished to flow seamlessly into its design. Tes-
evenings with platters of exquisite meats of the tament too to this nation’s multiculturalism is a
cured and grilled variety. small Hindu shrine that sits within the same com-
It wouldn’t be a stretch to imagine a vixen by pound, catering to worshippers never hindered by
the bar, just by the gigantic brass monkey nestled racial lines.
in the wall of bottled liquor, enticing you further Whether for a staycation or an evening of mer-
into the Salon. Here, indulge in classic drinks re- riment, the Vagabond has it all to fulfil your ar-
worked with added theatricality and flair by the tistic, intellectual and hedonistic desires. Now if
gentlemen of Proof & Company. The barkeep is you’ll excuse us, we have some libations to attend
Mexican transplant Mauricio Allende and he’ll to at the Bar.
keep the drinks flowing (inclusive of some rare Hotel Vagabond is located at 39 Syed Alwi Road. Visit
coffees and teas for the teetotallers among you), as hotelvagabondsingapore.com for reservations.

tr ave l
WA N D ERLUST:
Stay i n g i n
fas h i o n
The most stylish hotels around.
W h e n yo u r n i g h ts end just in time for break-

fast and your first appointments of the new day fol-
low hard on the heels of your eggs and coffee, you’d
better make sure your hotel is up to scratch. 1
No one expects anyone’s heart to bleed for us,
spoiled rotten as we are, but slogging around the
international fashion shows can become exhaust- 2
ing—sweetie, the drinks! The people! The heat!—
unless you check into the right hotel, which we
definitively did back in June, in Paris, at the Man-
darin Oriental on the rue Saint-Honoré.
1. PARIS, Mandarin Oriental

In a beautiful Art Deco building, the hotel is arranged around
an inner courtyard garden, with tables for eating and drink-
ing, open from 7am to 2am (we can confirm that it is an excel-
lent place for eating and drinking at both those hours, and
all the hours in between). There’s also a two-Michelin-star
restaurant, Sur Mesure par Thierry Marx, the terrific Bar 8 and
a world-class spa. The rooms are spacious, stylish and com-
fortable, the service is second to none and the overall effect
is of cool, calm, chic efficiency. That late night/early morning
breakfast, by the way: 10 out of 10.
From SGD1,610* per night on B&B basis. Visit mandarinoriental.
com/paris
2. New York, The Carlyle

At the classiest hotel in town, Woody Allen often plays clari-
net with the jazz band in Bemelmans Bar.
rosewoodhotels.com

3. London, Claridge’s
Always impressive and quintessentially British. The fashion
crowd try to nab seats in the hidden Fumoir bar.
claridges.co.uk
4. Milan, Armani Hotel

The sleek, minimalist interiors are all subtle shades; soothing
to the eye after not a lot of sleep.
milan.armanihotels.com
* D E N OT E S T R A N S L AT E P R I C E . ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 237

tr ave l
P ER P ET UAL
E S CA P E :
I n to t h e
land of
t h e g i a n ts
It’s cold, it’s expensive and even
the fish are sad in Norway. True,
and not true, says our man on the
Hardangervidda plateau.
Words by Henry Dimbleby
Right
In rural Norway, a network
of overnight huts is strung
across the rugged landscape;
they can be up to 14 hours
walk apart.

P H OTO G R A P H y BY C hris Z ie l ec k i . ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 239
TRAVEL
—
Into the
land of
the giants
I f I’d d o n e m y re s earc h before buying a of Jotunheimen, which translates as “the land of

flight from UK to Norway, I would probably never the giants”. Bergen is pretty enough. At its centre,
have gone. As it was, I got the ticket first and then jauntily-painted clapboard buildings surround the
bought a guide book which, with its grainy grey port which looks out on a breathtaking archipelago
photographs of wind-blasted mountains, made it to the east. To the west, the city’s outskirts spread
look like a landscape in perpetual mourning. Seek- like fingers into the valleys of the seven mountains
ing reassurance, I got in touch with a friend who that encircle it. A brisk walk (or a brisker cable
had recently returned from a coastal tour of Nor- car) will take you to the top of the tallest of these,
way. This is the email he sent me: Ulriken, 643m above sea level. From here you can
“Most expensive place I’ve ever been. Made To- take the whole thing in: the sea, the islands, the
kyo and the Middle East seem a giveaway, Madi- fjords and the chocolate box town. Lovely. But my
son Avenue a thrift shop. No pubs. Bad Viking gloomy friend was right about one thing. Hell’s
tourist centres selling plastic helmets with plastic bells, it’s expensive.
horns in plastic log cabins. Traditional sweaters Norwegian salaries, in even the most menial of
machine-knitted out of mixed fibres in Southeast jobs, are vast and artificially inflated by the huge
Asia. Tower block-sized cruise ships glinting in the wealth stored in the country’s oil reserves. Prices
sunlight. Black water. Cold. are concomitantly high. On my second night in
“The salad is sold with roots on it. The cheese Bergen, sitting in a bar cradling a 400ml glass of
is a rubbery tan colour and sweet. There is no live beer that cost SGD16* I got talking to a local. He
music. (We did find an Eagles cover band one eve- works six weeks on (as a waiter on one of the
ning in Bergen.) The only upside is that walking in coastal ferries) and has six weeks off—in a villa in
Norway in August will make Scotland in December Brazil, with a staff of two, that he pays for with his
seem Latin in its light, Mediterranean in its cuisine crazy earnings.
and Jewish in its humour. Even the fish are sad.” For those of us without oil money, the Norwe-
But hey-ho. The truth is I had a smattering of gian economy can feel pretty scary. It’s as if the
air miles that needed using up, and Bergen was country gets a mainline into your bank account
the furthest European destination to which they as soon as you arrive at the airport, and begins to
would carry me. Plus, my sister Liza had offered suck you dry. There is no way to fight it. You just
to come along, and being an artist, she likes moun- have to get out of the city before cash runs out.
tains. Especially grim, grey ones. And anyway, the And that suited us fine. I’ve been reading the
deed was done. Norse myths to my young sons recently, and I
So, off we set to Norway’s second largest city wanted to see the Norwegian countryside. This,
Above, right
Bergen cable car. (population 275,000). Bergen is the gateway to according to legend, is where Odin and Thor and
Right
some of the most celebrated walking routes in the rest of the Aesir gods got up to their giant-
Henry Dimbleby’s hiking route Norway. From here, you can strike out to the fjords, bashing antics; and where, some day yet to come,
across some of the most
challenging, isolated terrain
to Hardangervidda (the largest mountainous pla- they will meet for the final time on the battlefield
in Norway. teau in Northern Europe), or to the violent peaks of Ragnarök.
240 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 M a p by K a rt v erket.

P H OTO G R A P H y BY C hris Z ie l ec k i . ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 241
TRAVEL
—
Into the
land of
the giants
Right
Hardangervidda National Park:
home of Thor and Loki.

Loki’s evil army of giants and monsters will
swoop down over the plains in a giant ship shaped
like a dragon. Odin will be swallowed in one great
gulp by Loki’s son, the wolf Fenrir, who will in turn
be dispatched by the warrior god Vidar.
Thor will slay the Midgard serpent but will then
only be able to take nine steps before he too falls
dead, a victim of its terrible venom. Finally, the fire
giant, Surt, will set the worlds ablaze, burning all
their inhabitants, gods and mortals. The earth will
sink into the sea.
So it is foretold.
For now, though, there’s an efficient train ser-
vice taking you to the mountains from Bergen.
Ravishing glimpses of fjords and plunging water-
falls flash past the window into blackness as the
train rushes from one tunnel to the next.
By the time we arrived at Ustaoset, on the
northeast corner of the Hardangervidda plateau, a
drizzly mist had settled in, obscuring everything.
We walked a few damp kilometres through the
gloaming to the local motel. The owner explained
her husband had died a few years back and he did
the cooking. So there was no food. Instead, we
popped open a tube of salt-sweet smoked cods roe
Kaviar, spread it on rye bread and sat up late into
the night—it never gets properly dark in the sum-
mer—poring over maps and planning our trek into
the heart of the plateau.
The Norwegian wilderness is vast. It will
dwarf anything you have experienced. Walking
here makes the Scottish Highlands feel like Hyde
Park. You can go for 12 hours without meeting an-
other soul. For the most part of the seven days we
spent on the plateau, we were at least a six-hour
walk from the nearest road. Walking through this
vast emptiness, mostly in silence, a strange thing
happened to my thought patterns. At first the
same old thoughts dominated, chasing each other
round my head to the rhythm of my breathing.
But gradually they evaporated and new thoughts
bubbled up. New ones. Businesses to start. People
I wanted to spend more time with. Things I want-
ed to experience.
Each thought would pop up and I’d examine it,
then it would drift off to be replaced by another.
It was exhilarating. I was pounding vast distances,
a crazed smile on my face, enjoying the internal
show as well as the external one.
That initial day we walked for 14 hours be-
fore arriving for our first stay in a state-run hut,
perched on the edge of a long lake punctuated
by huge rocks, which looked like water-buffalo
drinking in the dusk. There is a network of these
huts spread across rural Norway for the benefit of
walkers and (in the winter) skiers. The maps show
the walking distance between them: typically six
or seven hours. There’s no electricity, no mobile
phone reception, no iPads. You have breakfast by
candlelight, read books and talk to strangers.
There are two sorts of hut. Serviced huts are
run, most often, by a couple, who provide din-
ner and breakfast. In self-service huts, you bring

TRAVEL
—
Into the
land of
the giants
T i p s Fo r W h at
To Pac k W h e n
Wa l k i n g I n N o rway
1
As little as possible. A 10kg
pack instead of a 20kg one
will change your life.
2
I had a satnav watch, which
was a luxury, but meant
I could be really relaxed
about navigation. The trails
are marked every year with
red Ts painted on the rocks,
so a map and a compass
would be fine.
3
Walking poles. Yes, they
are ridiculous when you’re
strolling through, say,
English countryside but
are essential when you are
trying to navigate a bog,
scree or permafrost with
a heavy pack.
4
A knife to cut your dried
whale meat, or fight off
wolves. Don’t take food
that has much water in it,
eg, fruit, vegetables. And
no bottled water: it is just
too heavy.
5
A quick-drying trekking
towel.
5
Money, lots of it.
your own food, or buy from the storeroom via mountains. The panoramic rolling moorland,
an honesty system. The set-up is all very Nordic. glinting with a thousand lakes, transformed into a
You sleep in large dormitories and cook and have wilder, bleaker place as we passed lakes, peaks and
dinner in a communal room. Occupants—mostly valleys with names that seemed to come straight
Norwegian, with a few Germans—are expected from Tolkein’s Middle-earth: Rauhelleren, Had-
to share tasks such as collecting water from the laskard, Torehytten. The land is wild, but in sum-
river or sweeping the floor. Do so when there is mer it is giving. You can pick wild blueberries
someone around to see, or you may get dark looks almost anywhere. Sweet, translucent cloudber-
from other guests who assume you aren’t pulling ries are also common. If you are thirsty, you can
your weight. drink from any stream. The Norwegians are proud
The only other custom you need to be aware of of this, and it is a wonderful feeling. If you fancy
is not to ask anyone you meet what they do for a meat, there are plenty of lemmings to hunt. These
living. This is considered the height of rudeness. little mammals are cute and furry, like wild ham-
Norwegians come to the mountains to escape the sters. They are also famously stupid. At one of the
restrictions and labels of their daily lives. huts we stayed in, the Norwegians hosted a quiz
Right
Walking trails are marked with
Over the following few days we gradually which my sister and I won (with the help of some
red Ts painted on the rocks. climbed from the eastern plateau up into the local ringers). The prize was a “grill spear”—for

local pronunciation think of a Sean-Connery-
esque “grillshpeeer”. This wooden-handled prong
expands telescopically to a length of about 3ft,
the idea being you spike your meat on one end and
grill it over an open fire. I am convinced they were
designed with lemmings in mind.
Other than the fresh berries, the food is not
much to speak of. If you are in a serviced hut, the
best value comes from having soup and bread at
night but taking the full breakfast in the morning.
These are epic and it is considered completely ac-
ceptable to stuff your pack with goodies for the day
ahead. A typical spread will include: porridge (de-
licious, made with yoghurt), cereals, three types
of herring, home-baked bread, six types of pickle,
daintily sliced vegetables and salad, all sorts of
cured meats, patés, cheeses, crispbreads, boiled
eggs, butter and jam.
It is also worth stocking up on essentials before
leaving the city. We had bought some dried whale
and the aforementioned Kaviar. “We’ve got hardly
any Kaviar left,” my sister said to me on our penul-
timate day, as we picnicked on the top of a precipi-
tous cliff. “Will you pass the whale?”
On our last day, we climbed up into the moun-
tains as the sun came out. As we trudged along
a path covered in permafrost, the air tempera-
ture rose to more than 20 degrees. And as we de-
scended, baking hot, a crystalline lake with a sandy
beach appeared below us. The permafrost at one
end of the lake glowed blue and fresh. We raced
down the path and plunged straight in.
That night, we made our way up to the hut at
Stavali, where the owner had built a hot tub. It
was warmed by a large metal bucket, submerged
in the water, in which we burned logs. We bought
a SGD16* can of lager each and sat in the tub in
our underwear with six Norwegian women on
their annual walking holiday. A gale blew up and
whisked water into our faces, and we laughed
with mad happiness. If I’d done my research first,
I’d never have gone to Norway. Sometimes, it pays
to be disorganised.

1
tr ave l
t h e ba r b e r
d oss i e r:
Z a n z i ba r
An Indian Ocean paradise
famed for spices, sealife—and
Freddie Mercury. 1. Stay
White Sand Luxury Villas does what is says on the rather el-
Words by Tom Barber egant tin with a range of, well, luxurious villas for couples (or
families, if you must) that lead directly onto the, yep, white
sand of Paje Beach. For the sake of catchiness, what’s not in
the name is that each villa has its own plunge pool, the ex-
cellent restaurant serves top-notch Zanzibari cuisine, and the
roof bar is an idyllic spot for a sundowner.
whitesandvillas.com
Z a n z i ba r must be one of the most exotic names
2. Lu n c h
in the travel lexicon. The largest of the so-called It might be ever so slightly gimmicky to have to take a boat,
Spice Islands off the coast of Tanzania has seen or swim out to a tiny island restaurant, but The Rock—off
Persian traders, Portuguese navigators, Omani Michanwi Pingwe beach—is well worth the journey. Just make
sure you go when the tide’s in or the whole experience is a
sultans and (surprise, surprise) the Brits, hold bit of a (not) damp (enough) squib. The lobsters and octopii,
sway. Now, only palm trees sway in the sea breez- caught each day by the resident “crustacean hunters”, are
grilled to perfection and best accompanied with an ice-cold
es on its astonishing white sand beaches. The local Kilimanjaro lager. therockrestaurantzanzibar.com
largest island—Unjuga, part of the Zanzibar Ar-
chipelago—can form the perfect coastal element 3. D i n e
The Jambiani Tourism Training Institute doesn’t sound the
of a classic bush-and-beach itinerary after some coolest place to eat, granted. A Canadian couple set it up
serious safari action in East Africa’s national to train locals in the hospitality trade, and on Friday nights
parks. For the less nature-inclined, excellent bou- the trainees put their skills into practice in its Alibi’s Well Res-
taurant. Great atmosphere, great project, great food. jtti.org
tique hotels and the laid-back island vibe work
their relaxing magic. Additional factoid: Zanzibar 4. D r i n k
The Livingstone Beach Restaurant, in the former British Con-
is the birthplace of one Freddie Mercury. That sulate, feels untouched since the end of the British Protector-
ought to clinch it. ate in 1963, but that’s part of the charm. Set in all its former
colonial splendour right on the water in Stone Town (on the
AVOID west side of the island), this is the place to enjoy a sunset
Tom Barber is a founder of travel-site originaltravel.co.uk drink and even occasional live music.
Normal rules apply:
ie, don’t walk down an
alleyway at midnight 5. Pa rt y
9 flashing your Rolex. Jambo Bar is a very laid-back place on Paje Beach for a re-
laxed evening session with locals and tourists, but for a row-
W h y G O? dier time head just up the beach to Paje by Night for themed
Paje Beach is one of evenings such as foam parties. pajebynight.net
the best kitesurfing
beaches in the world 6. S h o p
thanks to its reliable, Emerging from the labyrinthine lanes in Stone Town one
cross-shore winds and street behind the waterfront, you’ll find Fahari, a shop opened
shallow, sandy-bot- by Julie Lawrence, once accessories designer for Sir Paul
tomed waters. Happily, Smith. The majority of things will appeal more to the wife, but
White Sand Luxury there are some quality bags for the discerning gent, made by
Villas owns Zanzibar Zanzibari ladies. fahari-zanzibar.com
Kite Paradise, the finest
set-up on the beach. 7. D o
ziff.or.tz; zanzi- Appreciate the extraordinary carved doors and architectural
barkiteparadise.com legacies of Zanzibar’s varied settlers in Unesco Heritage Stone
Town. At the bizarre manifestation of multiculturalism that is
246 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 I l lustr ati o n by Da mie n W ei g h i l l . G E T T Y

the Old Dispensary, head to Three Bees café for a quintes-
2 sential Zanzibari experience: just choose a flavoured shisha
tobacco for your hookah and settle back.
whc.unesco.org
8. W h e n i n …
Enjoy a cup of delicious East African coffee. The best in Zanzi-
bar is found at the café beneath the imaginatively named Zanzi-
bar Coffee House Hotel where the owner of both serves brews
made from beans grown on his coffee estates in Zanzibar and
the Southern Highlands on the mainland. riftvalley-zanzibar.com
9. S e e
Life beneath the waves. Ras Nungwi Hotel arranges guided
snorkelling and/or trips to the nearby marine conservation
area of Mnemba Atoll where you can spot everything from
turtles to—here’s hoping—resident pods of dolphins.
rasnungwi.com

tr ave l
massages in your private villa, with access to yoga and Pilates
classes. But before you snub this retreat for being a little too
eat-pray-love, remember, there’s plenty of wine to go around.
Sneak peeks of the menu, spa options and the profiles of
experts conducting the retreat are all available at simone-
baldwin.com/nihiwatu-retreat
2. T h e g r e at fo o d e s ca p e
Margaret River’s seminal Gourmet Escape festival
brings together the best of the culinary world in one of
the best wine regions of Western Australia.
No holiday is complete without some level of gastronomic in-

dulgence. Makes sense then to dedicate a good few days to
some old-fashioned culinary gratification while still basking
in the lush beauty of one of Western Australia’s prime wine
regions. The Margaret River Gourmet Escape features 40 of
the best chefs from all over the world, including Singaporean
heavyweights like Ryan Clift of The Tippling Club. The fes-
tival’s headliner, though, is Marco Pierre White, dubbed the
“godfather of modern cooking”. Culinary temptations aside,
the Margaret River area boasts coastal walking tracks and
some of the best beaches Down Under. Only three hours from
Perth, this year’s Gourmet Escape seems like a lovely way to
take weekend foodie adventures to the next level.
For more on the line-up of chefs and tickets, visit
gourmetescape.com.au
n ot i c e b oa r d
Travel news and tips to help sate 3. Ac e o f c lu b s
The newly refurbished Club Hotel provides an incred-
your wanderlust. ible array of food and drink options in the heart of an
Words by Manasa Sitaram enclave that is already a cultural mecca.
2
Those who can’t get enough of our sunny little island now
have an option for a staycation off the beaten path. The
newly refurbished Club Hotel eschews the tried-and-tested
high-rise views and tropical beach vibes for a gastronomic
1. R aw i n d u lg e n c e cultural experience right in the heart of Ann Siang Road.
Food, fitness, wellness and wine are all staples of a Featuring a whopping five F&B venues to complement its
seven-day retreat on Sumba Island. luxurious 22 rooms, history buffs will love its 1900s colonial
structure. Get your fill of pisco and ceviche at the Peruvian-
If you’re a little sick of the red and the white, swap it out for themed rooftop bar, while the quirky Mr & Mrs Maxwell’s is a
the greens and the blues of Sumba Island, Indonesia. Those part museum filled with eclectic curios. The Club contributes
concerned about all things sinful that come from holidaying 3 to the neighbourhood’s thriving nightlife scene as well, with
in the tropics need not worry at Nihiwatu Retreat. A seven- the Champagne Yard, but for those fancying something a lit-
day wellness retreat crafted by raw food chef and wine en- tle stronger, the basement holds B28, a luxury underground
thusiast, Simone Baldwin, is meant specifically for “luxury- whisky bar. Peruvian cuisine, a museum, champagne, whisky
loving, health-conscious hedonists”. Featuring a high-raw, AND your very own bed upstairs. You won’t even have to leave
vegan menu with wines and champagnes at your beck and the building to be on holiday.
call (hello, private butler!), this particular retreat is meant to Special opening rates for The Club begin at SGD280++ for
be guilt-free, while still allowing you to treat yourself to the a limited time only. Bookings and reservations can be made
finer things in life. Included are hikes to nearby waterfalls and at theclub.com.sg

China’s possibly the last place that you’d think of for an ex-
otic island getaway. But the land of dragons and emperors,
and about 1.35 billion people, has space enough for a lavish
tra v el abode by the sea. One that’s dubbed the Hawaii of the South
China Sea, to be specific. Nestled in a picturesque setting
just by Nan Hu Lake, all powdery white sandy beaches and
the best dive spot in China at Baifu Bay, the architecture has
some serious feng shui elements, if you’re into that sort of
thing. Six standalone arch-shaped buildings, as designed by
the acclaimed Jean-Michel Gathy, facilitate the flow of chi
between ocean and mountains. But lest all this chinoiserie
is making you shirk away, never fear because the overall ef-
fect is one that’s elegantly modernist imbued with the lightest
touch of Chinese style. There are only 207 rooms and villas,
all with gorgeous oceanfront views that you can take in from
wall-to-wall panoramic windows. There’s more to China than
the usual food scandals beloved of tabloids; have a gander at
its natural beauty, too.
For reservations, visit sanya.park.hyatt.com
L AST R E S O RT
Park Hyatt Sanya Sunny Bay Resort,
Hainan Island, China

t h i s way o u t
M E R K I N S FO R M E N
Merkins aka pubic wigs were a popular fashion trend among
prostitutes in the ’40s when they had to shave their genitalia for
hygiene purposes to combat pubic lice and/or hide symptoms of
STDs. The merkin has gained traction thanks to its use in movies.
Here’s some of the “in” merkins for the AW15 season.
Inverted Troll Doll Marge Simpson Russell Brand
Batman 90s Keith Flint of the Prodigy Super Saiyan
250 ESQUIRE SEPTEMBER 2015 WO R DS BY way n e c h eo n g.

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M a n At H i s B est S E P T E M B E R 20 1 5

THE FALL FASHION ISSUE

IS THE MAN BACKSTAGE:

M PA S I N D U S T RY AWA R D S 2 0 1 5 • C OV E R O F T H E Y E A R • M E N ’S M E D I A O F T H E Y E A R • L ifestyle / E ntertainment M edia of the Y ear

On the cover: Henry Cavill by Warner Bros

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W hat’s o n o u r 1. Ron Mueck’s “Still Life Chicken”

Weirded out by this? Hopefully, this story won’t,

1. Walking 2. Feasting 3. Fighting 4. Mingling 5. Weight control

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We think we’ve got the

1600s 4. Sisley: Sisley Goes Skiing (2007)

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Noun: A very small humanoid creature. “Scientists” of yore

euphemism of the month

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Abandon your inhabitations. Yes,

Watch this. Taiwanese director Hou Hsiao-Hsien’s

Laugh with a curmudgeon. Dylan Moran, who plays the acerbic

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H a i r today, g o n e tomo r row

C e n t r e- pa rt, side-part, mullet, Mohawk. Hair

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T h e 50 t h a n n i v e rsa ry of Singapore’s inde- H ow to c r e e p a ernment—I find it hard to second-guess what’s

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