The Boston Schoolyard Initiative

The Boston Schoolyard Initiative
LANDSCAPE MANUAL
FOR
ON-SITE PERSONNEL
June 2001
1
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This manual has been adapted and revised, with permission, from a publication
developed by Boston Urban Gardeners for public housing complexes (1983). The
primary writers/editors for this adapted version, aimed at school grounds, were
Julie Stone (Program Director for the Boston Schoolyard Funders Collaboration)
and Roy Blomquist (Horticulturist). Additional writing, editing and formatting was
done by Jo Ann Whitehead (Garden Futures). Special thanks to Rob Roy and his
staff at the Boston Public School Department’s Office of Facilities Management
for their invaluable assistance in field-testing and printing this manual (2001).
2005 Production Notes:

Boston Natural Areas Network
has made every effort to
compile and edit
the original materials
true to their original content.
Boston Natural Areas Network

62 Summer Street
Boston, MA 02110
617-542-7696
www.bostonnatural.org
June 2001
2
LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCE MANUAL
Table of Contents
Page
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
What is the Boston Schoolyard Initiative? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Maintenance of the Physical Site . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Maintenance Strategy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Basic Requirements of Plants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Quick Reference Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Problem/Solution Key . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Lawns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Edges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Plant care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Eroded areas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Playground Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Fences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Benches & Seating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Routine Landscape Maintenance Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Developing a Watering Plan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
When Should It Be Done? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Lawn maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Tree & shrub maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Flower power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Play areas, fences, & benches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Monthly Calendar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Lawn Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Mowing and Trimming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Fertilizing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Core Aeration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Spot Seeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
Watering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Planting New Lawns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

Laying Sod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
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Table of Contents
Tree & Shrub Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
Pruning Trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
Pruning large trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Pruning small trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Pruning Shrubs and Hedges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89

Deciduous shrubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
Evergreen shrubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Hedges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
Severe pruning for regrowth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Winter Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
Edging and Mulching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99

Edging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
Mulching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
Watering and Fertilizing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107

Fertilizing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Watering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
New Trees and Shrubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111

Planting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
Flower Power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Schedule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Recommended flowers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125

Annuals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Perennials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Bulbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
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MAINTENANCE MANUAL
Table of Contents
Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
High impact/protected flower beds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
Designs for sun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
Designs for half shade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Suggested flower combinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
Bed preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141

New beds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
Established beds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
Planting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
Annuals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
Perennials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Bulbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
Annuals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
Perennials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
Bulbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Play Areas, Fences & Benches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163

Play areas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
Daily inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
Monthly inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Fences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Benches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
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Table of Contents
APPENDIX:
Plant Food Elements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
Good Plants Recommended For Schoolyards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192

Deciduous Trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
Evergreen Trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
Deciduous Shrubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
Evergreen Shrubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
Perennials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
Poisonous Plants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
Problem Plants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
For Further Reading . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
Proper Tree Planting Techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
Recommendations for Landscape Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
How to Calculate Bulk Landscape Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
BSI Shared Maintenance, Protocol & Agreements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
BSI Maintenance Checklist and Needs Assessment Form . . . . . . . . . 217
Community Service Project Template . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
DICTIONARY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
6
INTRODUCTION
What is the Boston Schoolyard Initiative?
The Boston Schoolyard Initiative (BSI) is a model for promoting community-driven

sustainable development, environmental stewardship, responsible public policy, and
outdoor experiential education in the Boston Public Schools (BPS). This public/private
partnership, funded by the City of Boston and the Boston Schoolyard Funders
Collaborative, is revitalizing Boston’s underutilized schoolyards using an inclusive
community design process aimed at uniting school and neighborhood while building
constituency groups capable of sustaining capital improvements and ongoing
programming.
Maintenance of the Physical Site
Through a combination of baseline City services and community efforts, school grounds
must be kept clean, safe and hospitable. If strong constituencies are formed during the
improvement process then these “friends of the schoolyard” can be enlisted to perform
light maintenance, clean-ups, simple but frequent chores and annual events. Likewise,
it is not unreasonable to expect care of the schoolyard to be part of learning activities
conducted at the site. Even the youngest children can be taught to discard their trash in
a receptacle or to water a flower. Community pride in community spaces should be a
tangible part of schoolyard lesson plans.
As owner of these public properties, the City of Boston will perform baseline
maintenance, supply police and fire protection, and will coordinate the delegation of
support services to community groups. If we encourage “low maintenance” design for
initial capital improvement, implement burden-sharing maintenance schedules, and
utilize schoolyards for the betterment of the community, then we can minimize costs
while maximizing our return on the investment.
Maintenance Strategy
The BPS performs baseline maintenance for all schoolyards, while other partners of the
school community assume responsibility for maintaining enhancements. This shared
responsibility will take the form of a maintenance agreement, which is established for
each schoolyard Friends group. The agreement (see Appendix page 228) will clearly
identify roles and responsibilities so all partners can assume a measure of responsibility
for the upkeep of each schoolyard.
7
INTRODUCTION
Baseline Maintenance refers to basic issues of safety, cleanliness and

repair. It includes: performing routine inspections; removing trash and graffiti; cutting
and trimming grass; raking leaves; aerating, fertilizing, over-seeding; cleaning out
drainage structures; repairing equipment, fences, signs and other site furniture,
replacing site lighting; cleaning, sweeping and repairing paved areas, pruning or
removing trees, and removing snow from public sidewalks and walkways to and from
main entrances and fire exits and coordinating activities with Friends groups.
Community-based Maintenance refers to the additional improvements that Friends

groups elect to include to make their schoolyard special. These include planting and
maintaining bulbs, flowers and garden areas; planting commemorative “class” trees;
weeding, edging and mulching plant beds; pruning or replacing shrubs; participating in
seasonal clean-ups; painting fences; implementing a summer watering plan; protecting
the resource from vandalism and misuse; coordinating activities with the BPS.
8
INTRODUCTION
The Five Basic Requirements of all Landscape Plants
It is very important that all people responsible for maintaining schoolyard

greenspace understand that all landscape plants have five basic
requirements for them to thrive and grow to their maximum potential.
They are:
1. Water
2. Oxygen
3. Sunlight
4. Nutrients
5. Protection (The right plant in the right place)
The more you learn about the specific plants on your site, the better
prepared you will be to give them the proper balance of these five basic
requirements. Horticultural knowledge about your site’s greenspace will
ensure a sustainable schoolyard.
9
10
QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE
Problem/Solution Key
Everyone can be a problem-solver if he or she understands the problem.
In this section you will find:
Problem/Solution Key . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Lawns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Edges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Plant care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Eroded areas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Playgrounds & Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Fences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Benches & Seating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Routine Landscape Maintenance Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Developing a Water Plan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
When Should It Be Done? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Lawn maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Tree & shrub maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Flower power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Play areas, fences, & benches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Monthly Calendar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
11
LAWNS
Problem Solution Action
• Mow p.41-47
Overgrown•
• Spot seeding p. 59-62

•Fertilize p. 49-53
• Water p. 63-65
or
• Plant lawn if bare p. 67-74
spots are extensive
Bare
Spots•
• Core aeration p. 55-58

or
• Edge & mulch p. 95-101
Bare Spots
under Trees•
• Report to management
• Core aeration p. 55-58
• Repair broken fencing p. 175-183
Worn Paths•
12
EDGES
• String trim p. 41-47

• Edge & mulch p.95-101
Along Fences•
Base of
Shrubs•
•Clip grass
w/hand clippers p. 41-47
or
• Prune suckers p. 77-93
Base of
Trees•
Next to
13
Buildings•
EDGES
• Edge p. 95-101
Sidewalks
•

• Repair pavement
where appropriate
Weeds in
Cracked Pavement•
• Edge & mulch p.95-101
Edges of
Flower Beds•
Around Transformers
& Rubbish Enclosures•
14
PLANT CARE
• Selective hand
pruning p. 85-91
or
• Severe pruning for
rejuvenation &
regrowth p. 92
Over Pruned
Shrubs & Hedges• • Selective hand
pruning p. 85-91
or
• Severe pruning for
Rejuvenation &
regrowth p. 92
Overgrown Shrubs &

Hedges• • Water p. 103-106
• Prune dead
wood p. 85-91
• Fertilize p. 103-105
• Mulch p. 95-101
Stunted Growth•
Weedy Shrub Beds or

Foundation Plantings• 15
PLANT CARE
Dead or Dying
Old Trees•
• Water p. 103-106
• Prune p. 77-82
IF DEAD
• Remove
• Plant new tree p. 107-112
• Follow Care of
New Trees p. 113-116
Dead or Dying
Young Trees•
Broken or Dead
Limbs (Big)•
• Prune p. 77-82
Broken or Dead
Limbs (small)•
16
PLANT CARE
• Plant to fill in hedge p. 107-112
Gaps in Hedges•
• Plant additional shrubs p. 107-112

• See Appendix
Good Trees & Shrubs
Sparce Shrub
Beds•
• Remove & replace
with new shrub p. 107-112
• See Appendix
Good Trees & Shrubs
Dead Shrubs•
17
ERODED AREAS
• Pave slope with

belgian block (4" X 4" X 4"
granite block) or other rough
textured surface
Slopes Near
Steps•
• Build retaining wall

- concrete
- landscape timbers
Front Yard Slopes•

• Edge sidewalk with cobblestones or
Belgin block (4" X 4" X 4"
granite block)
• Widen sidewalk
• Replace with wider sidewalk
• Do not use excessive salt in winter-
salt will kill grass
Along
Sidewalks•
• Divert water with PVC
pipe below grade
• Build small dry well
below down spout
At Gutter
Down Spouts•
18
PLAYGROUND EQUIPMENT
New play equipment should be under warrantee for minimum one year.
• If hazardous report immediately

to management
• Replace parts p. 159-168
• Remove structure if
damaged beyond repair
Broken or
Missing Parts•
• Add more surface material
(sand, wood chips, etc.)
p. 159-168
uneven & worn hard surfaces
Uneven, Worn
Play Surface•
• Report to management if surface

is less than one year old
or
damaged beyond repair
• Repair p. 159-168
Loose Synthetic Play

Surface Material•
• Add additional sand, mulch
or soil
• Repair footing p. 159-168
Footings Loose
or Exposed• 19
PLAYGROUND EQUIPMENT
New play equipment should be under warrantee for minimum one year.
• Tighten by pinching
ends with pliers p. 159-168
• Lubricate
“S” Hooks on Swings

Loose or Squeaky•
• Replace p. 159-168
Worn Ropes•
• Tighten p. 159-168
• Replace protective
covers if missing
Loose Bolts
or Fasteners•
• Sand wooden surfaces p. 159-168
• Paint dull equipment p. 159-168
• Sand and paint rusted p. 159-168
metal surfaces
Equipment Surfaces
20
Rough or Dull•
FENCES
• Straighten metal poles p.169-178

• Replace or re-secure p.169-178
footing
Bent or Loose
Poles• • Re-stretch or p. 169-178
replace fabric p. 169-178
Broken or Loose
Chainlink Fabric• • Repair p. 169-178
If unable to repair: p. 169-178
Missing or
Broken Pieces•
• Sand & paint p. 169-178
Rust or
Chipped Paint•
21
BENCHES & SEATING

• Remove
Badly
Damaged•
• Replace p. 179-184
Missing or
Broken Slats•
• Paint p. 179-184
Chipped &
Faded Paint•
• Tighten bolts or
reset footings p. 179-184
Loose Footings
or Bolts•
22
Routine Landscape Maintenance Checklist
Daily
Report to management hazards, such as large All year as needed

broken or dead tree limbs, hazardous broken
benches, fences, play equipment or pavement.
Hazards should be repaired or removed immediately.
Pick up litter and sweep up broken glass All year as needed
Prune dead or broken tree branches All year as needed
Weekly
Mow lawns and trim edges of walkways April - October

fences, planting beds and buildings
Water new or recently planted June - October

shrubs and trees
Maintain flower beds (weed, water and June - October

deadhead flowers)
23
Routine Landscape Maintenance Checklist
Twice a year
Edge mulched shrub beds May & July/August
Lime and fertilize lawns April & October/November
Prune Hedges May/June & July/August
Once a year
Prune:
• Rootsuckers and water sprouts on trees December - February
(Can be done any time of the year)
• Deciduous shrubs and small flowering trees June/July after flowering
• Evergreen shrubs July
Test soil pH; add lime or sulfur as recommended October/November

Add new mulch to shrub beds April - June +October - December
Core aerate the lawns March/April or September/October
Fertilize trees and shrubs April/May
Plant flower beds May/June
Clean up flower beds October
24
Developing a Watering Plan
Why Use a Watering Plan?
Manmade landscapes require supplemental water for a minimum of three years to

establish new plants and to sustain maximum plant health and vigor in the urban
landscape.
A few rules of thumb. . .
• A site plan of a new schoolyard is required; multiple copies are recommended.
• The goal of all watering is to supply an adequate supply of supplemental water to each
area of the landscape above and beyond the water provided by natural rainfall.
• The average amount of supplemental water required by landscape plants will always be
about one inch of supplemental water each week.
• It usually takes in the area of two - four hours to supply one inch of water with hoses
attached to an exterior water spigot.
• Deep soaking applications of water will provide the plant roots with a minimum of one inch
of water in a single weekly application to maximize the benefit of supplemental water to
urban landscape plants.
• The water plan goal is to apply an adequate amount of supplemental water to each of
these landscaped areas in one application once each week. Post the plan in a highly
visible staff area, review the plan with staff frequently and always following the plan.
Supervisors and team leaders must check frequently to ensure the plan is followed or
revised to provide a consistent supply of supplemental water in a systematic plan or the
plants which are most difficult to water will fail.
• Over watering is very rare in urban landscapes. Soil drainage problems are usually
resolved by a quality landscape designer and site development contractor in the design
and re-landscaping process. Never waste water with water run-off in providing
supplemental water!
• Except in sites with construction errors, very heave clay soils or in very compacted sites
with poor drainage, the plan and team must always provide large volumes of water,
WATER, WATER, WATER!!!
25
Equipment
At least two copies of the site plan and planting plan for your schoolyard. Each exterior
water spigot must be clearly marked in red pen on the outside of the building on your
site plan.
At least four colors of highlighter markers, a red pen and a blue pen
A large flat surface (a long lunchroom table)
Custodian(s) and a representative from the schoolyard Friends group who will
implement the summer watering plan.
Post the watering plan outside (protected) or in an indoor area accessible to

custodian(s), staff and the Friends group.
File the extra copy of the completed plan in the office for future reference. NOTE: all
watering plans are a working document and will likely be amended as the watering
season progresses. Make all improved plan changes to the file copy as well as the
posted plan. Some areas need water for a longer duration and other areas need water
more frequently than once a week. Seldom will areas need less than one inch of water
each week!
Some method of measuring the amount of watering completed: a rain gauge, a tuna or
cat food can, etc. Remember, if the weather service has not recorded one inch of rain
for the week, a supplemental inch of water is a must.
26
Hose in Trash Can
How to develop your watering plan

Step 1 Get out the equipment
• Two completed planting plans (as built plans if possible) and the site plans
• A minimum of four different color highlighter marking pens and red and
blue permanent pens
• A walking inspection of the exterior of the building is advised prior to the

planning session. Each exterior water spigot should be tested and
marked as to the exact location on the exterior walls of your building.
Work orders for repair must be completed by the school Principal on those
water spigots not in operation. Water spigots not properly operating can
be a valid reason for the plan to fail.
• The watering team should be able to move freely around the table or flat,
clean work surface.
Step 2
Review the site plan together to determine that the entire watering team is oriented to
the landscape plan as to recognizable features on the site plan which are representing
the true features of your schoolyard site. For instance, the front door, parking areas,
dumpsters, play structures, major natural features such as rock outcroppings, old
valued trees, and positive and negative aspects of the site. Insist that each team
member identify several features of the site landscape plan by manually pointing to and
describing various aspects of the landscape plan. Most team members will not be
accustomed to reading and relating to the landscape drawings, so it is very desirable to
have someone who is very familiar with landscape drawings on the water plan
development team.
27
Step 3
Discuss the goal of a watering plan extensively. Most team members have a hard time
understanding the two basic premises of why and how to best provide supplemental
water to newly planted urban landscapes.
A. New urban landscapes are not natural environments and will therefore require
large amounts of supplemental water above and beyond the natural rainfalls of
our area. This means that even if it rains naturally, we follow the watering plan
unless at least one inch of natural rain falls in one occurrence. Only then can we
skip a day or two of the plans to apply supplemental water as prescribed by the
site-watering plan.
B. The watering plan documents for team members exactly which areas of the site
landscape will be watered on which day of the week. Once each week, every
area must be watered for approximately two or three hours, but each area is
watered only once each week. (Time and again, team members will repeatedly
misunderstand this point and think they must water a given area repeatedly in a
given week.) One inch of supplemental water—added to each area ONCE
each week—in one application, is our goal. If we have a very heavy rainstorm
delivering us one inch or more of natural rainfall in a one or two day period, we
can pick up the watering plan after taking one or two days off. Most natural
rainfalls do not total one inch of water, and the supplemental watering plan
will be followed by the watering team. Remembering that our goal is to add
one inch of supplemental water to each plant each week.
Step 4
Attempt to break the site into areas of not more than one hundred feet from any one
exterior water spigot. Exterior water spigots are best located not more than one
hundred and eighty feet apart around the exterior of a building.
28
The watering plan should be completed in a four-out-of-seven weekday rotation.

Completing the watering of all areas in four days allows for busy Mondays or Fridays,
holidays, and emergencies, allowing for the team catching up in the fifth day of the
workweek. Every seven days we want to apply one inch of supplemental water to each
landscaped area, but it is advisable to complete the watering of all areas in four days.
This means that if a green highlighted Sub Area is watered on Tuesday, it will be
watered every Tuesday, but only on Tuesday.
There must be at least one water spigot in each area to supply the water each day of
the watering plan. I usually try to divide each of the areas supplied by a given water
spigot into four Sub Areas, one Sub Area for each of the days that watering will be
carried out. I try to ensure that all landscape surfaces of each Sub Area can be reached
with not more than one hundred feet of hose from any given water spigot. A scale ruler
can be used to measure the distance on your plan from each water spigot marked on
the exterior of your building. This area will be a radius or half circle drawn out in a blue
pen on the landscape plan. If the team members have to attach and drag around more
than two fifty-foot-long hoses to water an area, the task seldom is completed on a
regular basis. The water will spray more than just the one hundred feet from individual
exterior water spigots, but not more for good, even coverage and deep-water saturation
into the soil.
Step 5
After marking the site plan up into roughly equal sized areas of not more than one
hundred feet from each water spigot, the team must agree that they will try to water the
entire area once in four consecutive days each week. By studying the areas outlined
from each spigot four Sub Areas will be agreed upon and sketched out in pencil on the
plan, one area representing each of the four days in our watering plan, Sub Area A,
Sub Area B, Sub Area C, and Sub Area D around each exterior water spigot.
Some areas are harder to water than others, such as long narrow areas and those
around play areas or on steep slopes, but they all need the required one inch of water.
This means that those areas may require specialized watering equipment, such as Y
connectors, soaker hoses, spray hoses, pop-sprinklers, or oscillating sprinklers.
Additional time for setup and dismantling the equipment may be required. Therefore, a
smaller area may be designated for watering on a given day from any specific water
spigot.
29
Step 6
Each area around each exterior spigot will now have an area designated as Sub Area A.
Individual areas called Sub Area A would be agreed upon for the area to be serviced by
each exterior water spigot on day one of the watering cycle. The landscaped areas in
each Sub Area A will require watering on day one of the plan on all areas of the site
landscape. Each Sub Area A for each exterior water spigot area should now be
designated, by having drawn around that landscaped area in pencil and then colored,
each Sub Area A in with a green highlighter for each of the areas which will need to be
watered on day one from each exterior water spigot. Each green highlighted Sub Area
may again be divided into an area to be watered in the AM, and an area to be watered
in the PM, shading the area to be watered after lunch with a black pen, drawing
diagonal lines spaced about one-quarter inch apart on roughly half of the green
highlighted area.
Step 7
Take the draft plan out into the newly landscaped areas of your site and walk each Sub
Area A and see if the areas on your draft plan appear to accurately relate to the actual
site. Check to ensure that the areas to be watered are in fact within on hundred feet of
each exterior water spigot on the exterior of the building first. Then see if the areas in
Sub Area A appear to be of a size which can be covered with no more than two fifty foot
hoses, allowing each hose/sprinkler unit to apply supplemental water for roughly two
hours on one quarter of Sub Area A in the early AM. The hose/sprinkler unit will apply
water on one quarter of Sub Area A for two hours in the late AM (say after coffee
break). Then check to see if one quarter of Sub Area A can be watered in the early PM.
Ensure that the area relates to one half of the area shaded by the diagonal black lines.
This area is drawn to shade the portion of Sub Area A to be watered in the PM. Each
designation helps to allow the watering team to ensure that the watering units are in the
correct location at any given time in the watering program. The Draft plan may be
amended at this time.
30
Step 8
Repeat the process of shading and subdividing one fourth of the area around each
exterior water spigot for Sub Area B. Sub Area B should be highlighted in orange or a
second highlighter color in each landscaped area within each one hundred foot radius
around each exterior water spigot. Sub Area A represents the areas to be watered on
day two of the watering program. Each Sub Area B will be marked in the matching
color, i.e., orange, and watered once each week. The team will need to cover each
landscape area in Sub Area B for approximately two hours on the second day of the
watering program, which would usually be on each Wednesday of the workweek.
Step 9
Repeat the shading in and designation of Sub Area C and Sub Area D for the areas
around each exterior water spigot on your site landscape plan. If some areas do not fall
into the one hundred-foot radius area of your watering plan as drawn around each
exterior water spigot, additional watering will be required. Those areas outside the
basic four-day plan may have to be provided water once each week on the fifth work
day of the seven-day watering cycle, or by the Friends group on weekends. The team
must provide each landscaped area with one inch of water each week, in one
application, to ensure deep-water penetration to the plant roots throughout the growing
season for your urban landscape.
31
32
When Should It Be Done?
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Mowing & Trimming–
Fertilizing–
Core Aeration–
Spot Seeding–
Watering–
Planting Lawns–
33
TREE & SHRUB MAINTENANCE

Pruning Large Trees–
Pruning Small Trees–
Pruning Broken, Dead or Diseased Branches–
Pruning Flowering Shrubs–
Pruning Evergreen Shrubs–
Pruning Hedges–
Severe Pruning for Re-Growth–
34

Edging–
Mulching–
Watering–
Fertilizing–
Plant Trees and Shrubs–
35
FLOWER POWER
Design Beds, Order Annuals & Perennials–
Prepare Beds for Planting–
Plant Perennials–
Plant Annuals–
Order Bulbs–
Maintain Annual & Perennial Beds–
Plant Bulbs, Fall Clean-Up–
36
PLAY AREAS, FENCES & BENCHES
Inspect & Maintain Play Areas–
Inspect & Maintain Fences–
Inspect & Maintain Benches–
**REPAIR ALL HAZARDS IMMEDIATELY**
37
Monthly Calendar
January
Design flower beds
Order annuals and perennials
February
Prune large trees
Order shrubs or trees needed
March - April
Prune large trees
Severely prune shrubs and hedges for rejuvenation
Fertilize small to med. sized trees, shrubs, and hedges
Prune roses
Core aerate lawns
Prepare shrub beds for planting
Prune broken, dead, diseased tree and shrub branches
Inspect all: Play areas
Benches
Fences
Repair all hazards immediately, schedule other repairs and painting
April
Mow and trim lawns
Plant new trees and shrubs
Plan perennials
Fertilize lawns
Spot seed lawns or plant new lawns
Severely prune deciduous shrubs and/or hedges for regrowth, if needed
Fertilize perennials
Fertilize bulbs after flowering
Prepare flower beds for planting
Inspect play areas Repair all hazards immediately
38
Monthly Calendar
May
Mow and trim lawns
Plant new lawns
Prune flowering shrubs after flowering
Prune hedges
Edge trees, shrubs, beds and walkways
Plant perennials
Plant annuals and roses
Annual spring clean-up, planting
June
Mow and trim lawns
Prune flowering trees and shrubs after flowering
Prune evergreen shrubs (mid-June thru mid-July)
Water all trees and shrubs planted within last three years
Water newly seeded lawns
Weed, water, fertilize, and deadhead annuals
Weed and water perennials and roses
Cut back browned foliage of bulbs
Order bulbs for fall planting
39
Monthly Calendar
July
Mow and trim lawns
Prune flowering trees after flowering
Prune evergreen shrubs
Prune hedges (mid-July thru mid-August)
Order trees and shrubs for Sept. - Oct. planting
Benches
Fences
Repair all hazards immediately, schedule other repairs & painting
August
Mow and trim lawns
Prepare soil for new lawns
Prune hedges (mid-July thru mid-August)
Edge trees, shrub beds and walkways (mid-July thru mid-August)
Weed, water, deadhead and fertilize annuals
Water and weed perennials
Edge flower beds
September
Mow and trim lawns
Seed new lawns
Water and weed perennials
Weed, water, deadhead, and fertilize annuals
40
Monthly Calendar
September-October
Spot seed lawns where needed
Core aerate lawns
Plant bulbs
Inspect play areas
Annual fall clean-up/planting
October-November
Mow and trim lawns thru early November
Rake leaves from lawn
Fertilize lawns and apply lime or sulphur as appropriate
Clean up flower beds
Finish planting new trees and shrubs
Mulch trees and shrubs
Prepare new flower beds for next year’s planting, if possible
Paint or do large repairs on play equipment, paving, fences, benches (paint only in
temperatures above 50 degrees)
Benches
Fences
Repair all hazards immediately, schedule other repairs and painting
December
Inspect, repair, and re-order tools and supplies
Finish mulching trees and shrubs
41
42
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Nothing is more important to the appearance

of schools or communities than well maintained lawns.
Mowing and Trimming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Fertilizing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Core Aeration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Spot Seeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
Watering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Planting New Lawns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

Laying Sod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
43
44
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Mowing and Trimming
Why mow and trim?
Mowing creates a neat appearance and is good for the health of

the grass. Trimming adds the final touch to a well mowed lawn. Without
trimming, the grounds will look messy no matter how well mowed the lawns are.
i Mow, trim, and sweep one area of the schoolyard at a time. You can do another section the next
day if you cannot finish.
i Mowing at the right height in each season promotes healthy lawns:
• 2" - 2½” in the Spring (April - late May)
• 2½” - 3" in the Summer (June - mid-September)
• 2" - 2½” in the Fall (mid-September - November)
i Maintain the equipment to make the job quicker and easier:
• Clearly label the fuel cans for the string trimmer and the lawn mower. String trimmers use
a mix of 2-cycle oil and gas. Most lawn mowers use straight gas. Be Sure To Use The
Correct Fuel.
• Clean the air filter often. Paper filters should be changed after every use, particularly after
mowing dry, dusty areas.
• Lawns should be cut with sharp blades. Have at least one extra blade per mower. Send
blades out for sharpening if it can’t be done in house.
i Do not fill the equipment when it is on the lawn. Spilled gas kills grass!
i Never mow when the grass is wet.
i Be careful not to use the string trimmer against tree and shrub trunks, wood structures and wood
fences. They will be damaged. Use hand clippers instead. Save trimming time by mulching
around trees and shrubs.
45
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Mowing and Trimming
Equipment
Reel Mower
Hand Grass Clippers
Push Broom
Lawn Mower
String Trimmer
Schedule
Mow and trim the lawn in:
Spring when the grass is about 3½” long. Cut to 2" - 2½” every week.
Summer when the grass is about 4½” long. Cut to 2½” - 3" every week to ten days
(if lawns are watered they will need to be cut more frequently.)
Fall when the grass is about 3½” long. Cut to 2" -2½” every week.
46
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Mowing and Trimming
How to mow and trim
Step 1 Get out your equipment:
• Lawn Mower
• String Trimmer
• Hand Grass Clippers
• Push Broom
• Plastic Bags for Litter
• Paper Bags for Yard Waste (compost/recycle)
Step 2 Check the owner/operator manuals for the type of lawn mower you are
using and for the string trimmer. Be familiar with the safety sections.
Step 3 Fill the mower and trimmer with the proper fuel (mower-gas, string
trimmer-mix of gas and 2-cycle oil). Do not fill the equipment when it is on
the lawn. Spilled gas kills grass!
Step 4 Check the oil in the lawn mower every time you use it! The oil fill
opening is in a different location on the mower from the gas. Fill to the
correct level (Check lawn mower manual). Make sure the air filter is clean
(usually the air filter should be checked and cleaned after each use.)
Step 5 Check height of mower blade. Be sure all wheels are at the same setting.
Step 6 Check the supply of nylon twine in the trimming head of the string trimmer.
Change the roll of twine if the supply is low.
Step 7 Think of the schoolyard in areas or sections. For instance, the front of the
building, the sides, the back of the building, the court yards, etc. Your
goal is to complete one area of the schoolyard at a time before
moving on to the next area.
47
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Mowing and Trimming
To complete an area you must:
a. Police the area picking up trash, rocks, bottles and other hazardous
objects.
b. Mow.
c. Trim with the string trimmer.
d. Trim with the hand grass clippers where needed.
e. Sweep grass clipping off paved areas.
f. Recycle/compost.
Step 8 Taking all of your equipment with you, go to the first area you want to work
on. It is usually best to start on the most visible area of the
schoolyard—the front of the building or schoolyard.
Step 9 Police the area picking up trash, rocks, bottles and other hazardous
objects.
Step 10 Wearing goggles and gloves for safety, start mowing.
Step 11 Mow for efficiency. The following mowing technique should be used for
both large and small areas. A regular gas push mower or reel hand
mower is used for small or medium sized areas. For larger areas a riding
mower.
Moving inward, mow around the entire area two times. Mow clockwise so
the grass clippings go toward the center of the lawn and not onto the
sidewalk or into the shrub beds.
48
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Mowing and Trimming
After you have gone around the entire section twice, mow the area where you
can make the longest passes. In some areas this may be on the diagonal.
DEVELOP AN EFFICIENT
MOWING PATTERN
FOR EACH AREA
Continue to mow the section. Develop a system that is most time efficient.
Continue to make the longest passes possible.
49
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Mowing and Trimming
When mowing, overlap each consecutive mowing strip slightly and check
frequently to avoid making skips.
The most efficient way to mow is to line up the wheels of the mower with
the last strip that you mowed. Practice so the overlap is as small as
possible without skipping a strip.
Step 12 After completing the mowing in one section, trim the edges using the
string trimmer and the hand grass clippers. Develop a method that works
for you and then do it every time.
For example:
A. trim along the building foundations
B. trim along all fence lines
C. trim areas the mower missed, near trees and shrubs. Hand trim
close to the base of trees and shrubs so that their bark is not
damaged by the string trimmer.
50
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Mowing and Trimming
Step 13 Using the string trimmer, trim weeds and grass in the cracks of paved
areas (sidewalks and parking lots).
Step 14 Sweep the grass clippings off of all sidewalks and paved areas. Grass
clippings can be slippery. Sweep for safety as well as appearance.
Step 15 Move on to the next section of the schoolyard and:

• pick up trash
• mow
• trim
• sweep
Step 16 When you have finished (or completed as many sections of the schoolyard
as you can that day) clean the grass, dust and dirt off the mower, string
trimmer and hand grass clippers with a clean dry cloth. Clean the air filter
on the lawn mower. Air filters vary from machine to machine; check
operator manual for cleaning instructions. Put the tools back in the tool
storage area and put the collected trash in the dumpster.
......................................................................
For more information and trimming see:
All About Lawns, Ortho Books, page 49. By Michael Mac Caskey, Editor: Alice Mace
(1985)
Landscaping: Time-Life Home Repair and Improvement Series, pages 38-41. Editor:
Paul Porter (1983)
51
52
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Fertilizing
Why fertilize?
Grass is one of the heaviest feeding plants in the world. It needs fertilizer to
produce a healthy, thick lawn with no bare spots. The pH of the soil needs to be
in the 6 to 7 range in order to allow the grass to utilize the fertilizer. If the soil is
acid (pH around 6.2 or less) add lime. If the soil is alkaline (pH over 7.0) add
sulfur.
i Test soil at least every other year. County extension offices will provide specific
information on adjusting the pH values and nutrient levels of tested soil.
i Plan for one application of fertilizer in the early spring (April) and one in the late
fall (October - November).
i Although many sources recommend fertilizing four or more times a year, budgets
and staffing of schools often make it difficult to fertilize at all. Fertilizing twice a
year with high nitrogen fertilizer is most economical. The high nitrogen fertilizer
(such as 20-8-8) should have a 50% organic nitrogen source. The organic
nitrogen breaks down more slowly than inorganic and is highly preferable when
applying fertilizer only twice a year. (For further clarification see excerpt from
Lawns and Groundcovers, page 41.)
i Follow directions on the bag of fertilizer carefully. If application rates are not
carefully followed, lawns can be easily burned with high nitrogen formulas. If a
10-6-4 formula is used, more frequent applications are required.
i Distribute the fertilizer lightly and evenly over all lawn areas. Watch out for spills
and clumping of the fertilizer. Over fertilizing burns grass! Applying too much
fertilizer can kill an entire lawn.
i This information is primarily for cool season grasses in the transitional zone. For
more technical information, see the Ortho book, All About Lawns.
53
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Fertilizing
Equipment
Drop Spreader
Schedule
Fertilize in April and again in October - November.
Put down lime (or sulfur) after fertilizing in October/November if the soil pH is not
between 6 and 7. Although pH adjustment can be done any time of the year, plan on
doing it in the fall when the equipment is out for fertilizing (not recommended in April
because there are so many other tasks that need to be done.)
54
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Fertilizing
How to apply lime and fertilizer
Step 1 Get out equipment
• Spreader There are two types of spreaders, broadcast or drop.

The broadcast type is preferred because it ensures a
better, more even coverage and is faster. Drop
spreaders are best for very small lawn areas.
• Fertilizer
Step 2 Determine what spreader setting you need to use for the product you are
going to apply. A different setting is used for each product. Read the
label on the bag; it will tell you what setting to use if you have either a drop
or a broadcast spreader.
Step 3 Put the fertilizer into the spreader. Be sure the spreader is not on the
grass when you fill or refill it. Fertilizer spills will burn the lawn.
Step 4 Start spreading the fertilizer. Fertilize one area or section of the
schoolyard at a time before moving on to the next area. Fertilizer is
spread almost the same way the lawn is mowed. Use the same technique
to make the job efficient.
Go around the outside edge of the area two times.
55
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Fertilizing
Spread fertilizer over the area where you can make the longest passes
possible.
AS WITH MOWING
DEVELOP AN EFFICIENT WAY
OF FERTILIZING
Continue to fertilize the section. Develop a system that is most time

efficient.
Unlike when mowing, turn the spreader off when making sharp turns
to avoid high concentration of fertilizer. The spreader should be left
open only when you are moving ahead at an even pace.
Be sure to do a light, even application of fertilizer over the entire lawn.
56
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Fertilizing
Step 5 When done, empty any remaining fertilizer on to a newspaper and pour it
back in the bag.
Step 6 Wash out the spreader before returning it to the storage area. This should
be done after each use because fertilizer will corrode metal.
Since lawn fertilizers are not cheap, it is wise to check the relative costs of fertilizers and their nutritional
value. Read the label on the bag before you spend your money, and find out how much each pound of
nitrogen costs. Do not be confused by the statement that a bag will cover 5,000 or 10,000 square feet.
After all, coverage is not the vital statistic; it is the nitrogen present that matters.
For example, suppose a fertilizer is labeled 20-8-5. That means 20 per cent, or 20 pounds out of each
100 pounds, is nitrogen. To provide 4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year you need 20
pounds of that mixture per 1,000 square feet per year. But if you use a 10-6-4 mixture, 10 per cent of
whose contents is nitrogen, the amount you need to buy jumps to 40 pounds.
I recently checked garden supply centers and found that the cost of fertilizer—figured on the basis of
nitrogen content—varied as much as 100 per cent. The fertilizer at the lowest price per bag often had very
low nitrogen content, so that the total cost of using it correctly was considerably higher than that of using a
high nitrogen fertilizer. In addition, the bargain fertilizers represent more weight and bulk, which requires
hard work to distribute.
Lawns and Groundcovers, Time-Life Gardening Encyclopedia (1971) p. 49.
......................................................................
For more information about liming and fertilizing see:
Gardening Techniques, Ortho Books, pages 84-87 by Lee Foster (1984)
All about Lawns, Ortho Books, pages 49-57 by Michael MacCaskey, Editor Alice
Mace (1984)
Landscaping, Time-Life Home Repair and Improvement Series, pages 37-40, 44.
Editor: Paul Porter (1983)
57
58
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Core Aeration
Why Air?
Healthy roots are essential to good lawn growth. Core aeration

encourages healthy grass roots because:
• it helps bring water and air to the roots,

• it prunes grass roots and stimulates growth,
• it supplements chemical fertilizers by bringing valuable micro-organisms to
the lawn surface
What is core aeration?

A core aerator is a machine that is handled much like a rototiller. Instead
of turning soil over as a rototiller does, a core aerator lifts plugs of grass,
thatch and compacted soil from the lawn. The small plugs are deposited
by the core aerator on top of the lawn surface and should not be raked
up.
These plugs will quickly decompose and act as a supplement to chemical

fertilizers.
Immediately after aeration 4-6 weeks after aeration
Finger like cores of thatch Core aeration prunes roots

and overly compacted soil and gives them room to
are removed allowing the develop, filling in the spaces
roots to breathe. with young strong roots
and loose soil.
A Few Rules of Thumb. . .
i Equipment is very expensive and must be carefully maintained.

i A wide variety of aerators are available. In addition to core aerators there
are slicing aerators. Some models are designed to be operated by hand
much like a mower; others are hitched to a tractor. Large open areas
such as golf courses and playing fields are aerated by larger tractor-driven
aerator hitches or by riding aerators.
i Aerate in either spring or fall.
59
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Core Aeration
Equipment
Core Aerator
CORE AREATORS CAN BE RENTED

AT MOST TOOL AND EQUIPMENT RENT-ALL COMPANIES IN YOUR AREA
**ASK FOR A DONATION AND PUBLICIZE VENDOR GENEROSITY**
Schedule
Core aerate in spring (March — April) or in fall (September — mid-October)
60
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Core Aeration
How to core aerate
Step 1 Rent an aerator if the school department does not have one. Schools
should coordinate schedules for efficient use of equipment.
Step 2 Read owner/operator manual. If unclear about operation of aerator, ask

supervisor. Be familiar with safety section.
Step 3 Fill machine with proper gas. Check and fill oil to correct level.
Step 4 For hand guided aerators roll the machine into position on the lawn, pull
the starter cord and warm the engine with the clutch disengaged for three
minutes. Release the front wheel control lever, engage the clutch to start
the corer drum, then adjust the throttle to maintain a slow, even speed.
Guide the aerator in the pattern used for mowing but do not overlap
the rows.
Step 5 Complete aeration of one area of schoolyard at a time. Pay special

attention to areas where compaction occurs:
• play areas
• lawn areas often used by neighbors for sitting
• along walkways where people tend to overstep the sidewalk and
walk on the grass
• over unpaved foot paths
Step 6 When you have finished, wipe grass, dust and dirt from the aerator with a
clean, dry cloth. Follow any other specific routine maintenance
instructions for type of aerator used (see operator manual). Return the
aerator to its storage location or to where it was rented.
.....................................................
For more information about core aeration see:
Landscaping, Time-Life Home Repair and Improvement Series, page 45. Editor: Paul
Porter (1983)
All About Lawns, Ortho Books, page 82. By Michael MacCaskey, Editor: Alice Mace
(1985)
61
62
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Spot Seeding
Why spot seed?

Spot seed to fill in bare spots in the lawn and guard against weed and crabgrass
growth.
• Prepare soil thoroughly before seeding. Never put seeds on compacted

soil. It won’t work.
• If an area is more than 30% bare, spot seeding will not solve the problem
and the entire area should be redone.
• Keep the area well watered for several weeks after seeding and protect it
with temporary fencing or string barrier and signs.
• Bare spots along sidewalks are often caused by excessive use of salt in
winter. Salt will kill grass and deteriorate play graphics.
63
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Spot Seeding
Equipment
Iron Rake
Tilling Fork
Sprinkler
Hose
Schedule
Spot seed in April or September – mid-October.
64
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Spot Seeding
How to spot seed:
Step 1 Get out equipment:
• Grass Seed
• Tilling Fork
• Iron Rake
• Hose
• Sprinkler
Step 2 Using the tilling fork, cultivate the soil in the area to be spot seeded by
digging, breaking the soil up and turning it over to a depth of 4-6 inches.
Step 3 Using the iron rake, rake the soil out so the surface is smooth and flat.
Remove any clumps of grass.
Step 4 Lightly tamp the soil with your foot to remove large air spaces in the soil.
Add topsoil if needed in order to have the area to be seeded at the same
level as the surrounding area.
Step 5 Rough up the top surface (½ inch) with your iron rake.
Step 6 Sprinkle grass seeds evenly over the area. Overlap into the undisturbed
lawn area by about 6 - 12 inches.
65
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Spot Seeding
Step 7 Lightly retamp area with foot to bed seed into soil. Seed should not be
buried too deeply.
Step 8 Water thoroughly with sprinkler. Without water the seeds will not grow.
Step 9 Put equipment away in the storage area.
Step 10 The newly seeded areas should be kept damp for two to four weeks.
Note: Larger areas can be reseeded after the lawn has been core aerated.
(1) Follow the procedure for core aeration

(2) Put grass seed in broadcast or drop spreader and spread over area
to be reseeded
(3) Water seeded area thoroughly and keep damp for 2 - 4 weeks
.....................................................
For more information about spot seeding see:
Landscaping, Time-Life Home Repair and Improvement Series, page 47. Editor: Paul
Porter (1983)
66
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Watering
Why water:
Watering produces a lush, green lawn but is less essential to a lawn’s health than
other lawn maintenance practices.
i To maintain its health and vigor, a lawn must receive 1 inch of water every
7-10 days. If it does not rain, the grass will go dormant (turn brown) but it
is still alive and will revive when it receives enough water.
i Watering a little is worse for the lawn than a fewer, longer soakings.
Lightly sprinkling a lawn brings the roots up to the surface. When grass
roots are near the soil surface (rather than deep in the soil) they are easily
destroyed if the light sprinklings are discontinued or if the grass is subject
to unusually hot weather.
i Dormant lawns (brownish) do not grow and do not need to be mowed as

frequently as green lawns. In case of time constraints, lawns could be
allowed to go dormant.
i Watering is time consuming because most schoolyards do not have

underground irrigation. Only water when a lawn area must look especially
green and beautiful (of course a green lawn is preferable, but in times of
drought it is more important to water shrubs and newly planted trees,
before lawns).
i If you water the lawn, plan ahead and set up sprinklers early in the
morning and water for approximately two hours (to apply approximately
one inch of water).
67
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Watering
Equipment
Sprinkler
Hose
Hose in Trash Can
Schedule
Water lawns from June through mid-September. To keep a lawn green and growing,
the grass needs one inch of water every 7 - 10 days.
68
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Watering
How to water
i Hoses
i Sprinklers
Step 2 Adjust the sprinkler location and height to it will cover as much lawn as
possible. Try not to waste water by watering pavement.
Step 3 Leave sprinklers on for approximately 2 hours.
Step 4 After 2 hours change the location of the sprinklers, once again adjusting
them so they will cover as much lawn as possible. An easy way to time
the sprinklers is to:
i set them up first thing in the morning;
i change them mid-morning before your coffee break;
i change them at lunch;
i change them mid-afternoon before coffee break;
i then put them away before you go home.
Step 5 When done, put the sprinklers and hoses away in the storage area.
.....................................................
For more information about watering see:
Gardening Techniques, Ortho Books, pages 61-73 by Lee Foster (1984)
All About Lawns, Ortho Books, pages 41-45 by Michael MacCaskey, Editor: Alice Mace
(1985)
All About Fertilizers, Soils and Water, Ortho Books, pages 73-82 by A. Cort Sinnes,
Editor: Shirley Manning (1979)
69
70
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Planting New Lawns
Why plant new lawns?

Lawns are the most durable green surface for outdoor spaces. However, lawns
do wear out and need to be replaced when overused, abused or not maintained
properly.
i Proper soil preparation before planting new lawns is time consuming, but will pay off in
results. Test soil before scheduling work so proper amendments can be ordered (peat
moss, compost, and lime or sulfur).
i Experts in the green industry are saying that the very best time to seed a lawn is in late
summer/early fall. Late August to mid-September seeding is getting the best results.
i Keep the soil moist for at least four weeks after seeding to better ensure that grass seed
will grow and establish a lawn quickly.
i Use the correct seed. Check with local reputable bulk seed distributors for seed that is
appropriate for schoolyards in your locality.
i Do not buy cheap seed. High quality seed is expensive, but it’s worth it. Spread the
seed at the recommended rate. Applying more seed than is recommended is
expensive and unnecessary.
i Generally, seed should be spread at a rate of 5-6 lbs. of seed per 1000 SF.
i Although laying sod is an option available to schoolyards, seeding is preferred to laying

so because:
i Sod is considerably more expensive than seeding.
i Seed varieties used to grow sod can be inappropriate for schoolyards. (Grasses
used for sod are more appropriate for high maintenance ornamental residential
and commercial properties.)
i Sod lawns often look fantastic for several years and then suddenly and seeming
mysteriously have large areas die off. Sod has certain inherent problems (thatch,
mono-culture, etc.) that make it difficult to maintain over time.
i Newly laid sod has been known to “get up and move at night.”
71
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Planting New Lawns
Equipment
Grading Rake
Roller
Spreader
Rototiller
Hose Iron Rake
Sprinkler
Grub
Hoe
Shovel
Hand Grass Clippers
Schedule
Plant new lawns in spring or late summer to early fall. However, seeding new lawns in
late August to mid-September is most ideal.
72
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Planting New Lawns
How to plant lawns

• Grub hoe
• Rototiller
• Iron rake
• Grading rake
• Shovel
• Wheelbarrow
• Roller
• Spreader
• Lime or sulfur
• High phosphorous fertilizer
• Grass seed or sod
• Hoses
• Sprinklers
Step 2 Remove existing weeds and grasses in the area to be replanted. Use
either a grub hoe or a spade held at a low angle to the ground. It is much
easier to remove these green plant materials and roots before rototilling.
Step 2 Rototill the entire area to a depth of six inches.
Step 3 Remove debris and rocks from the new lawn area. Pick up the larger
rocks, sticks and roots or construction waste, put into a wheelbarrow and
remove them from the site. Rake out rocks that are the size of golf balls
or slightly smaller. Rake rocks into piles around the lawn area. Pick up
the piles with a shovel, put into the wheelbarrow and remove them from
the site. Even a group of small rocks can prevent grass from rooting and
cause bumps and brown spots in a lawn during hot weather.
Step 4 Add soil amendments. First, spread lime or sulfur, and fertilizer with a
spreader. The rate of application is based on results from a soil test (See
Rules of Thumb. . .). Next, spread organic matter (compost) and/or new
top soil evenly over the new lawn area using a wheelbarrow, shovel and
iron rake.
73
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Planting New Lawns
The effort that you put into preparing the growing medium (soil) will be reflected in the
health and beauty of your lawn for years to come. This is true for seeded or sod lawns.
Examining the soil during cultivation is important to helping you know what the
maintenance plan will be after the lawn is installed. A lawn built on a very sandy soil will
lose water quickly and require frequent watering. A lawn built on a soil with a high clay
content will hold water for a long time and fertilizers will stay in the soil for a longer time.
These soils will have puddles of water after spring thaws. These heavy clay soils often
cake up or get crusty in the dryer summer weather. Occasionally, a perfect loam soil 4-6
inches deep is found when you till up the soil to start a new lawn. A good loam has
enough sand to allow water to drain and not drown the grass in springtime when ample
water is available. It also has some very fine clay soil particles which hold nutrients for
the grass and when combined with a balanced amount of organic matter such as peat,
humus, or compost, it can hold enough water to keep the grass green through drought-
stress in the heat of the summer.
Step 6 Rototill the area again to thoroughly mix the soil amendments in with the
soil.
Step 7 Using an iron rake or a large aluminum grading rake, smooth out the area
as though you were making a level floor. The high spots can be shoveled
into the slow spots and rake out until a relatively smooth surface is
achieved. Remember that the surface should not have dips or mounds.
Rough grading can be achieved by moving large amounts of soil with an
iron rake at a low angle of 30 - 45 degrees to the ground, but as the
grading work becomes finer, the handle should be held straight up and
down at about a 90 degree angle to the flat ground surface of the new
lawn area. Less soil is moved and a finer grade is achieved.
Fine grading should be done just before seeding or laying sod.
74
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Planting New Lawns
Step 8 Roll the finished graded area with a roller filled 1/3 full to
remove air pockets.
Step 9 Go over the rolled new lawn area and gently rough up the surface to a
depth of about ½ inch with iron rakes (any corrections in the finished
grade can also be made at this time, but not after this point).
Step 10 Seed or lay sod over the new lawn surface. When sowing seed, divide the
total amount of seed in half, and make two consecutive applications. This
process ensures an even application of seed over the entire area.
Spread half of the seed in this pattern.
Spread the remaining seed in this pattern.
75
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Planting New Lawns
Step 11 To be sure the seed has good contact with the soil, roll the area again with
a roller filled ½ to 3/4 full. Be careful that walking on the lawn does not
rough up the surface.
Step 12 It is very bad practice to shortcut on the water on any newly finished lawn
(seeded or sodded). Water is crucial to success and if you do not keep a
newly finished lawn moist for several (4 - 6) weeks after planting, you will
have wasted all of your preparation time. Water, water, and water. Yet,
avoid watering to the point of runoff which may erode the newly
finished and unprotected soil, particularly on hills and slopes.
Step 13 Stake off the area and mark clearly with plastic market tape or strings with
cloth flags tied to clearly define the area as off limits!
Step 14 When new grass reaches about 3 inches in height (about 1 month), allow
soil to dry out 1 - 2 days and mow to 2½ inches and maintain at that height
and continue to supply at least 1 inch of water every 7 days.
.....................................................
For more information about seeding and sodding new lawns see:
All About Lawns, Ortho Books, pages 21-31, 84-85. By Michael MacCaskey, Editor:
Alice Mace (1985)
Gardening Techniques, Ortho Books, pages 46-49. By Lee Foster (1984)
76
LAWN MAINTENANCE
Planting New Lawns
LAYING SOD
The lawn surface preparation is identical for seed and sod. Sod is easiest to lay
when you start laying strips of sod along a straight edge, such as a sidewalk or
driveway. If you have an irregularly shaped lawn, draw a straight line through it
or a string line across it, and start laying sod on either side of it. Handle the
strips of sod carefully to avoid tearing them.
The rolls of sod are heavy; each strip can weigh as much as 40 pounds. Two or
three men should be used to unload, carry and supply each person laying the
sod. See pages 36 - 40 in Ortho’s All About Lawns for photo of sod installation
process.
Rolls of sod should be staggered so that the ends of the two rolls side by side
would never end in the same place.
STAGGER ROLLS OF SOD
USE STAKES AND STRING

TO ALIGN ROLLS OF SOD
Use string to align turf on odd shaped lawns. Stagger rolls of sod. On a hot or sunny day,
lightly sprinkle the strips as soon as they are put down and set.
Never buy rolls of sod that have been held on a pallet for more than 24 hours.
Sod should be cut and delivered within 12 - 18 hour period, maximum. Sod
which cannot be laid within eight hours should be unrolled and laid flat with the
green side up and watered heavily, and then laid the next day.
Use an old but sharp knife to cut strips of sod.
Irregular spaces must also be rolled with a water-filled lawn roller to ensure good
root-to-soil contact. If a roller cannot fit into a tight space, very carefully use your
foot to gently but firmly press the sod into place.
Water, water, water.
77
78
TREE AND SHRUB MAINTENANCE
New trees and shrubs in schoolyards should come with minimum of one-year guarantee
for replacement when planted by contractors and properly maintained.
Pruning Trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
Pruning large trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Pruning small trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Pruning Shrubs and Hedges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89

Deciduous shrubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
Evergreen shrubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Hedges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
Severe pruning for regrowth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Winter tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
Edging and Mulching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99

Edging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
Mulch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
Watering and Fertilizing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107

Fertilizing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Watering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
New Trees and Shrubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111

Planting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
79
80
Pruning Trees
Why prune trees?

Pruning trees improves attractiveness, helps prevent disease and encourages
proper growth.
i Only use sharp tools
i Know what you want to accomplish

i removal of dead branches,
i removal of broken branches,
i removal of diseased branches,
i removal of hazardous branches,
i removal of watersprouts and root suckers.
i Never prune a large branch (larger than a man’s wrist) yourself. Request
professional arborist.
i Small flowering trees should be pruned as soon after flowering as feasible,

usually June or July. Large trees can be pruned in winter on mild days.
i Broken, dead or diseased branches should be removed as soon as possible no

matter what time of year.
i If the schoolyard staff plants trees, refer to p. 26 of the Ortho Book, All About
Trees for instruction on pruning newly planted trees.
81
Pruning Trees
Extension Lopper
Extension Saw
Equipment
Hand Pruner
Pole Pruner
Pole Saw
Pruning Saw Bow Saw
Loppers
Schedule
Large trees can be pruned any time, but it is a good idea to schedule the
pruning of large trees in the winter when there is less to do outside; mild winter
days are ideal.
Small trees should be pruned as soon after they flower as possible, usually
June and July.
Broken, dead or diseased branches should be pruned as soon as possible a being

noticed or reported. Broken branches attract vandalism which can cause more serious
damage to the tree.
82
Pruning Trees
Large Trees
How to prune large trees

Step 1 Report to management dead, diseased or broken branches that:
• cannot be removed easily with a pole pruner or a pruning saw

• are larger than a man’s wrist (3 inches)
These branches may need to be removed by an arborist.
• Hand pruner used for pruning anything smaller than a person’s

thumb. By-pass hand pruners are better than anvil
pruners
• Loppers used when branches are too large to be easily cut

with hand pruners
• Pruning saw best tool to use when removing branches from a main
trunk
• Pole pruner use a three section wooden pole pruner with two
interchangeable heads (lopping head and sawing
head). The pole pruner can be used for lopping and
sawing while working near ground level or can be
used to prune higher in the tree by attaching the
extension pole.
ALL WIRES SHOULD BE

CONSIDERED DANGEROUS.
• Bow saw useful for cutting large pruned branches into small
pieces to they can easily be thrown away.
Step 3 If dead, diseased or broken branches can be safely removed by

schoolyard staff, prune using the Three-cut Method or Small Branch or
Twig Cutting Method.
83
Pruning Trees
Large Trees
THREE-CUT METHOD (for large branches)
SECOND CUT
after second cut

break off branch
FIRST CUT
THIRD CUT
COLLAR ~~ DO NOT DAMAGE
FIRST Cut the branch you want to remove about one foot from the trunk. Make the first cut
underneath the branch. The cut should be only about ¼ of the width of the branch.
SECOND Make the second cut from the top of the branch about an inch or so further out from the
first cut. This cut should go down ½ - 3/4 the width of the branch.
THIRD The third cut is crucial. Remove the stub that is left without damaging the collar (the
slightly swollen area below where the branch connects to the tree).
The cut should be made cleanly with a sharp pruning saw. The cut will be at a slight
angle so the collar is not damaged.
Damaged collars or ripped tree bark are invitations for disease or

insect damage. Proper clean cuts will heal over quickly and do not
require tree paint.
84
Pruning Trees
Large Trees
SMALL BRANCH OR TWIG CUTTING METHOD
Using a pruning saw or loppers cut the branch to be removed close to the branch
it is attached to. Make a clean cut and do not rip the bark. Do not cut too close
to the attached branch. The cut should be made on a slight angle so that the
collar of the branch is not damaged. The collar is the slightly raised area below
the branch.
COLLAR
1. Branch pruned too close—collar is cut off

2. Branch pruned not enough—stub is left
3. Cut made correctly—the collar of the branch is left intact.
85
Pruning Trees
Large Trees
Step 4 Remove any root suckers close to the base of the tree and if possible
below the soil level. Use hand pruners or loppers.
Step 5 Remove any small twiggy growth on the main tree trunk using hand
pruners.
PRUNE DEAD OR
DISEASED BRANCHES
PRUNE RIPPED OR
BROKEN BRANCHES
REMOVE ANY SMALL TWIGGY

GROWTH ON TREE TRUNK
REMOVE ANY ROOTSUCKERS

AS CLOSE TO THE BASE
OF THE TREE AS POSSIBLE
Step 6 Cut up pruned branches (a bow saw is helpful for larger branches) and
call management to dispose of them.
Step 7 Wipe tools with an oiled cloth. Return the tools to the storage area.
Pruning tools should be kept sharp at all times. Neatly hang or store
pruning tools so blades do not become unnecessarily dull due to banking
or rubbing against one another.
86
Pruning Trees
Small Trees
How to prune small trees
• Hand Pruners
• Loppers
• Pruning Saw
• Pole pruner
Step 2 Using hand pruners or loppers, remove root suckers close to the base of
the tree or if possible, below the soil level.
Step 3 Remove any small twiggy growth on the main tree trunk using hand
pruners.
Step 4 Remove water sprouts using the Small Branch Cutting Method. Water
sprouts are easy to recognize because they grow straight up from
horizontal branches. These should be removed because they reduce light
and air into the crown of the tree. Some trees like crabapples tend to
grow water sprouts more than other trees. Removing them will also
enhance the natural form of the tree.
REMOVE CROSSING
BRANCHES
REMOVE WATER SPROUTS
REMOVE BROKEN,
DEAD OR DISEASED
BRANCHES
REMOVE ANY ROOT SUCKERS
AS CLOSE TO THE BASE
PRUNE ANY SMALL
OF THE TREE AS POSSIBLE
TWIGGY GROWTH
ON MAIN TREE
TRUNK 87
Pruning Trees
Small Trees
Step 5 Remove any dead, diseased or broken branches using the Three-cut
Method or Small Branch Cutting Method.
Step 6 Remove any crossing or overlapping branches (or branches that are
rubbing together) using the three-cut method or small branch cutting
method.
Step 7 Remove any low hanging branches that might be hazardous to people.
Step 8 Cut up branches and put them into the dumpster (a bow saw is helpful for
cutting larger branches).
Step 9 Wipe tools with an oiled cloth. Return tools to the storage area. Pruning
tools should be kept sharp at all times. Neatly hang or store pruning tools
so blades do not become unnecessarily dull due to banging or rubbing
against one another.
.....................................................
For more information about pruning trees see:
Landscaping, Time-Life Home Repair and Improvement Series, pages 67-69, 86.
Editor: Paul Porter (1983).
Gardening Techniques, Ortho Books, pages 93-101. By Lee Foster (1984).
All About Pruning, Ortho Books, pages 23-28. By Michael MacCaskey, Charles Deaton
(1978).
All About Trees, Ortho Books, pages 23-28. Editor: Barbara Ferguson (1982).
88
Pruning Shrubs and Hedges
Why prune shrubs and hedges?

Prune shrubs to increase attractiveness and control growth.
b. Remember, there are two styles of shrub pruning, formal and natural.
• formal pruning = high maintenance
• natural pruning = low maintenance
• Use natural pruning techniques
• Deciduous flowering shrubs should never be pruned into formal shapes because
it severely reduces the number of flowers by cutting off flower buds before they
can develop.
• Do not be nervous about pruning shrubs in the method recommended in this

book. The more you do it, the easier it will become.
• Prune flowering shrubs as soon after flowering as possible.
• Prune evergreens in late June or July (after the new light green growth turns dark
like the mature foliage color).
• Prune hedges twice a year. Thin and head back mid-May through or to mid-
June. Head back to control size and shape again in mid-July to mid-August.
89
Equipment Pruning Saw
Loppers Hand Pruner
Schedule
Flowering shrubs should be pruned as soon after flowering as possible, usually mid-
April - June.
Evergreen shrubs should be pruned in late June-July after new light-colored foliage
has turned the darker green color of mature foliage.
Hedges should be pruned twice a year. (1) in mid-May to mid-June and (2) mid-July to
mid-August.
Severely prune shrubs and hedges in early spring (March-April).
90
Deciduous Shrubs
How to prune deciduous shrubs
• Hand Pruner used for pruning anything smaller than a person’s

thumb. By-pass hand pruners are better than anvil
pruners.
• Loppers used when branches are too large to be easily cut

with hand pruners
• Pruning Saw used when working in tight spaces or when stems are
too large to be cut with loppers.
Step 2 Remove branches that are broken, dead or diseased.
Step 3 Remove any long shoots that are crossing, or misshapen. Cuts should be
made close to the base of the plant or at a main stem.
Step 4 Once a year, cut one third to one fifth of the older stems from the center of
the shrub near the ground allowing light to reach the interior foliage. This
is called a 3- or 5-year pruning cycle. One third to one fifth of the
older healthy stems should be removed once a year to maintain an
open loose shape that allows light and air into the interior of the shrub and
encourages new growth at the base of the shrub.
REMOVE CROSSING BRANCHES
THINNING SHRUBS ALLOWS

THIN SHRUBS BY REMOVING LIGHT AND AIR INTO THE
one-fifth — one-third OF THE INTERIOR OF THE PLANT
STEMS YEARLY
91
Deciduous Shrubs
Step 5 Now you want to head back the shrub to control the
growth (size) so that the shrub does not get too big for the
space it is in. Heading back is also used to lightly shape
the plant. Head back shrubs twice a year for size and
shape.
BUD
CLOSE UP OF A TWIG
OF SMALL BRANCH
HEAD BACK SHRUBS BY CUTTING OUT

WHEN HEADING BACK, CUT OFF
SOME OF THE LONGER GROWTH.
SHOOTS ¼ INCH ABOVE A BUD
HEADING BACK REDUCES THE SIZE
OF THE SHRUB AND IS USED
TO LIGHTLY SHAPE THE PLANT.
Step 6 When finished pruning, pick up all of the branches and stems and deposit
them into recycling paper bags for seasonal pickup.
Step 7 Wipe all tools with an oiled cloth, sharpen the loppers and hand pruners
with a sharpening stone and then return them to the storage area.
pruning tools so blades do not become unnecessarily dull due to banging
92
Evergreen Shrubs
How to prune evergreen shrubs
• Hand Pruners
Step 2 Remove branches that are dead, diseased or broken.
Step 3 Evergreen shrubs are slower growing than deciduous shrubs and should
only be lightly pruned by heading back the shrub to control size and
shape.
When heading back lightly shape the plant with NATURAL PRUNING.
The edges of the shrub should be loose and slightly uneven.
DO NOT FORMALLY PRUNE

evergreen shrubs
FORMAL PRUNING
requires more work and
frequent attention ~~see dotted line--
REACH INTO THE SHRUB AT

HEADING BACK WILL OPEN UP
ALTERNATE DEPTHS (4", 6", 12")
THE SHRUB TO ALLOW
AND REMOVE ENDS OF BRANCHES.
LIGHT AND AIR INTO THE
Always cut ¼” out
INTERIOR OF THE PLANT
from a new tuft of growth.
Step 4 When finished pruning pick up the pruned branches and deposit them in
the dumpster.
Step 5 Wipe hand pruners with an oiled cloth. Return them to the storage area.
pruning tools so blades do not become unnecessarily dull due to banging
93
Hedges
How to prune hedges

• Hand Pruners
• Loppers
• Pruning Saw
Step 2 Remove dead, diseased or broken branches.
Step 3 For deciduous hedges:
Once a year, thin the hedge by removing one third of the healthy stems at
the base of each shrub. This will allow light and air into the interior of the
shrubs.
For evergreen hedges:
Follow instructions for pruning evergreen shrubs. The goal in pruning
evergreen hedges is to make the hedge a single solid unit like a wall. Do
not prune each individual shrub!
94
Hedges
Step 4 Next, head back the hedge to control growth (size) and to
lightly shape it. Hedges should be headed back twice a year. Using hand
pruners, reach into the shrub and cut branches 4" to 6" to 12" from the
outside of the plant. Cuts should always be made ¼” above a bud.
Every few minutes step back

and look at the shape of the
hedge. The goal is to lightly and evenly trim back the size of the hedge. You
may want to stake and run a piece of string along the desired hedge height as a
guide to help you maintain a consistent height and shape.
Good Shapes Poor Shapes

The shape of the hedge should be These are incorrect shapes because
wider at the bottom than the top. They do not allow light to reach the lower leaves.
The lower part of the hedge will become sparse

and straggly when pruned like this.
Step 5 When finished pruning, pick up all of the branches and stems and bundle
for deposit. Call management for removal.
Step 6 Wipe all tools with a clean oiled cloth. Return the tools to the storage
area. Pruning tools should be kept sharp at all times. Neatly hang or
store pruning tools so blades do not become unnecessarily dull due to
banging or rubbing against one another.
95
How to severely prune for regrowth

If deciduous shrubs or hedges are overgrown or if they have been formally pruned with
electric hedge shears for many years, it is best to severely prune the plant back and
then allow it to regenerate new growth.
• Pruning Saw
• Loppers
Step 2 Using a pruning saw or loppers, cut back the main branches of the shrub
so they are between 6-15" high. Do not cut them all at the same height.
Severely prune overgrown or Cut stems of the shrub at uneven New growth will sprout from
formally pruned deciduous lengths, 6-15" high. the old stems and from the
shrubs to reduce size and roots.
allow regrowth of shrubs
to their natural form.
Step 3 Cut up branches and dispose of them in dumpster.
Step 4 Put tools away in the tool storage area.
Note: Approximately two years after a shrub has been severely pruned for
regrowth the shrub should be put back on to the regular pruning
maintenance schedule.
96
WINTER TIPS
Heavy snow breaks branches
• Prune snow or ice damaged branches as soon as possible.
• Do not pile snow on top of shrubs. Look for an alternative place to put the
snow.
• If there is an unusually heavy wet snowfall, gently shake the snow from the
most important shrubs in the schoolyard. Of course you will not be able to remove
snow from all shrubs, but if there are shrub beds of particular significance (like
plantings at schoolyard entrances) damage will be minimized if the snow is gently
shaken off the shrubs.
Salt damages grass, plants and new paving surfaces

• Avoid excessive use of salt on pavement. Be sure to use salt only on pavement.
Never spill onto grass and shrubs—it is like poison to plants. As the salted ice
melts, the water running off the pavement will be very salty and is likely to burn
adjacent tree and shrub roots. Do not oversalt the pavement.
• Calcium chloride ice melts may be less expensive in renovated schoolyards
.....................................................
For more information about pruning shrubs and hedges, see:
Landscaping; Time-Life Home Repair and Improvement Series, pages 86-88. Editor:
Paul Porter (1983).
Gardening Techniques, Ortho Books, pages 93, 106-107. By Lee Foster (1984).
All About Pruning, Ortho Books, pages 53-55. By Michael MacCaskey and Charles
Deaton (1978).
97
98
Edging and Mulching
Why edge and mulch?
Edge and mulch trees and shrubs to:
• make mowing and trimming easier

• reduce maintenance tasks around trees and shrubs
• create a better environment for root growth
• create a feeling of beauty and order
• Shrub beds, foundation plantings, trees and hedges should be edged and
mulched.
• Every two to three years beds should get a thin layer of fresh mulch spread on
them. The whole schoolyard can get fresh mulch every 2-3 years or every year
part of the schoolyard can get new mulch. Which method is used will depend on
the size of the schoolyard. Spreading mulch is a 2-3 man job.
• Shredded pine bark mulch in bulk is better and cheaper than bagged mulch.
• Edging and mulching can also be used under trees that always have large bare
areas under them. The absence of grass under trees is often caused by dense
shade or by shallow tree roots. Trying to grow grass under these conditions is
nearly impossible. Try edging and mulching these areas to improve appearance.
• Use power edgers to construct beds. Hand edgers are simple and effective for
routine maintenance in small schoolyards or for areas with few beds. Use power
edgers for large schoolyards with many beds, if available.
• Edge twice a year in March to April and again in mid-July to mid-August.
• Mulch in late fall. Mulching can be done any time of the year, but late fall is an
ideal time because time required for other tasks tapers off. Trees and shrubs
should get new mulch every 2-3 years.
99
Edging and Mulching
Trowel
Equipment
Shovel
Gloves
Hand Power Edger

Edger
Mulch Fork
Broom
Iron Rake
Schedule
Wheelbarrow
Edge twice a year, in May and again in mid-July to mid-August.
Mulch in the fall, October-December.
100
Edging and Mulching
Edging
How to do routine edging
The goal in edging is to redefine the line between the grass and the shrub bed, tree or
pavement.
• Hand Edger hand edgers are simple and effective for routine
maintenance
• Power Edger can be used for routine maintenance if a power edger

is readily available
• Wheelbarrow
• Push Broom
• Hand Trowel
• Gloves
Step 2 If a power edger is used read owner/operator manual for instruction on

operation and care of the edger. Be familiar with the safety section.
Follow supervisor’s instruction on where to operate power edger in the
schoolyard.
Step 3 To use a hand edger, hold the hand edger straight, step on the top edge,
(like with a shovel) making clean vertical cuts along the beds or
pavement. Cut off the grass and roots that are growing into the bed or
over the pavement.
»»»MAKE VERTICAL
CUTSººº
WITH AN EDGER
CUT OFF GRASS GROWING CUT OFF GRASS GROWING
OVER PAVEMENT INTO MULCHED AREAS
RE-ESTABLISH A CLEAN NEAT LINE REDEFINE EDGES OF SHRUB BEDS

BETWEEN PAVEMENT AND LAWN AND OTHER MULCHED AREAS
101
Edging and Mulching
Edging
Step 4 Pull out the grass and the grass roots. Put the grass that has been
removed into the wheelbarrow.
REMOVE ANY WEEDS OR GRASS

THAT MAY HAVE GROWN UP
PULL OUT GRASS
AND ROOTS
CUT LINE
Step 5 With a hand trowel or hoe remove any weeds that have grown up through
the bark mulch into the shrub bed, around the tree or under the hedge. The
weeds should be removed with their roots if possible so they will not grow
back. Put weeds into wheelbarrow.
Step 6 Wearing gloves, smooth out the mulch with your hands where you have
edged and pulled weeds. The mulch should be redistributed so it is pushed
back against the cut line. This will help slow down the grass regrowing into
the bed.
GRASS MULCH
CUT LINE
Step 7 Sweep sidewalks, patios and
paved areas after they have been edged for a neat, clean appearance.
Step 8 Compost or recycle with City seasonal program.
Step 9 Clean off tools and return them to the storage area.
102
Edging and Mulching
Mulching
How to do routine mulching
Step 1 Order shredded pine bark mulch. Make sure the delivery is scheduled at a
time when several crew can devote most of their efforts to spreading the
mulch.
Step 2 When the delivery truck arrives have the driver dump the mulch as close as
possible to the beds where it will be spread. If possible, have the mulch
dumped onto a tarp to make clean-up easier.
Step 3 Get out the equipment:
• Mulch Fork
• Wheelbarrows (2)
• Flat Shovel
• Iron Rakes
• Gloves
• Push Broom
Step 4 Using a mulch fork put the mulch into the wheelbarrow. A mulch fork is
much easier to use than a shovel.
Step 5 Move the wheelbarrow to the shrub bed. Either dump or fork the mulch onto
the bed.
Step 6 Using an iron rake and your hands, spread approximately 1½” - 2" of new
mulch on the bed. The goal is to have a total of 3" - 4" of mulch, old and
new, over the bed. The mulch should not be over 4" deep.
AVOID TOUCHING STEMS OR

COVERING ROOT FLARE
WITH MULCH
NEW MULCH
OLD MULCH
SOIL LINE MAXIMUM 4"

OF MULCH
103
Edging and Mulching
Mulching
Step 7 Clear mulch away from the stems or trunks of the shrubs and trees. Mulch
should not be piled deeply at the base of shrubs and trees because it
promotes decay and insect infestations.
NEVER BURY
LOWER BRANCHES
OF SHRUBS
SOIL LINE
CLEAR MULCH AWAY FROM BASE

OF TREES AND SHRUBS
Repeat the process until all mulch is spread or job is completed. Do not
overmulch plantings just to use up leftover mulch! Store excess mulch for
later use.
Remember—Work For Efficiency
One person loads wheelbarrows

One person runs wheelbarrows back and forth from mulch pile to shrub bed
One person spreads mulch
or
One person loads and transports wheelbarrows

One person spreads mulch
104
Edging and Mulching
Step 8 As the mulch pile diminishes, use the flat shovel to scrape the mulch from
the pavement back into the pile (like shoveling snow into a pile). If the mulch
was dumped on grass use a rake to clean it up.
Step 9 Use the push broom at the very end to clean up the area where the mulch
was delivered (on pavement or grass).
Step 10 Clean off tools and return them to the storage area.
......................................................
For more information about edging and mulching see:
Landscaping: Time-Life Home Repair and Improvement Series, pages 41, 86. Editor: Paul
Porter (1983).
All About Fertilizer, Soils and Water, Ortho Books, pages 30-31. By A. Cort Sinnes
(1979).
105
106
Watering and Fertilizing
Why water and fertilize?
Watering during drought prevents stress and dieback of trees and shrubs.
Newly planted and young trees and shrubs (less than 3 years on site) need a
regular supply of water to get established and reduce later maintenance.
A light application of appropriate fertilizer once a year promotes growth.
i Priorities for Watering:

• newly planted trees and shrubs keep wet for two weeks after planting and
water deeply every week thereafter during summer months until ground
freezes;
• young trees and shrubs require a deep soaking at least once a month during
summer months until the ground freezes;
• all shrub beds in very long dry periods (of a month or more) or if they show
signs of stress (look dry, wilted and shriveled).
i When in doubt, water well.
i Plan to apply a light application of 5-10-10 fertilizer around all shrub beds and
hedges around mid-April or right after the groung thaws.
i Plants should not go into winter in dry soil. If it is a dry fall, be sure to water trees
and shrubs well before the ground freezes, particularly those in planters or sandy
soils.
107
Equipment
Cultivator Trowel
Soaker Hose
Cup
5-10-10 Sprinkler
Fertilizer
Schedule Hose in Trash Can

Hose
Water newly planted trees and shrubs once a week until the ground freezes.
Water young trees and shrubs well once a month until the ground freezes.
Water all shrub beds in times of drought.
Fertilize in early Spring (March-April) all shrub beds, hedges and small to medium sized
trees with a light application of 5-10-10 fertilizer.
108
Fertilizing
How to fertilize trees and shrubs
• 5-10-10 Fertilizer (see Appendix)

• Cup
• Trowel or Cultivator
Step 2 Lightly sprinkle fertilizer around all small and medium sized trees and around
all shrubs.
Small to medium sized trees should get ½ cup of fertilizer sprinkled lightly
around each tree two to three feet from the tree trunk.
LIGHTLY SPRINKLE ½ CUP

FERTILIZER 2' - 3' AROUND TREES
2' - 3'
Shrubs should get ¼ - a cup of

fertilizer lightly sprinkled around
each shrub approximately 1 - 2 feet from the base of the shrub.
LIGHTLY SPRINKLE ¼ - a CUP

FERTILIZER 1' - 2' AROUND SHRUBS
1' - 2'
Step 3 After
sprinkling the fertilizer around the tree or
shrub use a cultivator or trowel to lightly
scratch the soil or mulch where the fertilizer has been spread.
Step 4 When finished put tools and fertilizer back in the storage area.
109
Watering
How to water trees and shrubs
• Hose
• Soaker Hose
• Sprinkler
Step 2 Follow priorities for watering in A Few Rules of Thumb to determine what
should be watered.
Step 3 For individual trees:
Lay hose about one foot from the tree trunk. Turn on the water so it comes
out very slowly. Adjust the flow of water so it has time to sink into the
ground. Turn down the pressure if small “rivers” develop. The water should
be sinking into the ground around the tree—not flowing away from the tree.
Leave water running for approximately 45 minutes.
For Shrub beds:
Set up sprinklers next to shrub beds. Adjust the water pressure and the
sprinkler so that the water is being distributed over as much of the bed as
possible. Leave water running for approximately 2 hours.
or
Set up soaker hoses around shrubs in the shrub bed. Leave water running
approximately 2 hours.
........................................................................
For more information about watering and fertilizing see:
Landscaping; Time-Life Home Repair and Improvement Series, page 86. Editor: Paul
Porter (1983).
Garden Techniques, Ortho Books, pages 61-67. By Lee Foster (1884).
All About Trees, Ortho Books, page 30. Editor: Barbara Ferguson (1982).
All About Fertilizer, Soils and Water, Ortho Books. By A. Cort Sinnes (1979).
110
New Trees and Shrubs
Why plant new trees and shrubs?

New trees and shrubs should be planted to replace those that have died and to fill in gaps or
empty spaces in hedges and shrub beds. Trees and shrubs in schoolyards can help make
them fit more into the surrounding neighborhood.
• Mature trees generally have a greater visual and environmental effect on a site than
shrubs. Once they get established trees are also lower maintenance than shrubs.
• Plant shrubs in shrub beds. Avoid single shrubs in the landscape; it takes more
time to maintain them.
• Reduce pruning time by choosing shrubs that do not get large. Select smaller,
compact varieties when available (see Appendix, Recommended Trees and
Shrubs).
• Handle new plants very gently.

• Transport trees and shrubs in covered truck. Travel in an open truck,
particularly along highways, will desicate (wind burn) the leaves. Damage
may not show up for months.
• Do not drop trees and shrubs because their root systems are easily
damaged. Protect the rootballs.
• Be careful to not break any branches while transporting and planting trees
and shrubs. Prune off broken branches.
• If plants must be temporarily stored before planting, do not let rootballs dry
out. Water daily.
• Plant in early spring or fall. Never plant during the heat of summer.
• Plant the rootball high. Trees and shrubs do much better when they are planted
high than when they are planted low or even at ground level.
• Do not plant shrubs where snow is piled in winter. Heavy snow breaks and
damages shrubs.
• Water new trees and shrubs well for three years after planting.
111
Equipment
Sharp Knife
Wheelbarrow
Hand Pruner
Shovel
Hose
Schedule
Plant new trees and shrubs either in spring or fall.
112
Planting
How to plant new trees and shrubs
• Shovel
• Wheelbarrow
• Sharp knife or hand pruners
• Hose
• Mulch
• Peat moss
• Superphosphate
Step 2 Set out the trees and/or shrubs where they are to be planted.
Step 3 Before digging, make sure plants are at least 3' - 4' away from walls, fences,
and sidewalks. Allow shrubs and trees room to reach their mature size. This
will reduce later maintenance.
Step 4 Move the tree or shrub from the spot where it is to be planted and dig a
planting hole two times as wide and one inch shallower than the rootball.
Place soil removed from the hole—the “backfill”—neatly onto a tarp.
TARP PLACED ON GRASS MAKES CLEAN-UP

NEATER AND MORE EFFICIENT
THE PLACE (root flare) WHERE THE
TREE TRUNK OR SHRUB STEMS
MEET THE SOIL SHOULD BE HIGHER
THAN THE GROUND LEVEL
DIG THE HOLE ALMOST ²²DIG THE HOLE TWICE AS WIDE

THE HEIGHT OF THE AS THE ROOTBALL
ROOTBALL OR OF THE
SOIL IN THE CONTAINER
113
Planting
Step 5 For Container Grown Plants

• Carefully remove the container. Be sure not to break apart the
rootball.
• Loosen any matted or tangled roots and gently roughen the roots on
the outside of the rootball. This hastens the plant’s new root growth.
For Ball and Burlapped Plants:

• Find out if the fabric and cord the rootball is wrapped in is
biodegradable. Burlap and jute cord will rot away and allow roots to
grow; synthetic wrap and/or cord will not.
Step 6 Place the tree or shrub into the hole. Leave the fabric and cord on the
rootball of balled and burlapped plants. Be sure that the top of the rootball is
slightly above the level of the top of the hole. If the tree or shrub is too low in
the hole, take it out, add more soil, tamp the soil, and once again place the
plant in the hole. Trees should be 2" - 3" above the soil line. Recent
studies indicate that most tree and shrub are death is caused to
planting too deep.
GROUND LEVEL
MUCH TOO LOW TOO LOW CORRECT
IF THE PLANTING HOLE WAS DUG TOO DEEP,

ADD MORE SOIL TO THE BOTTOM OF THE HOLE
AND TAMP IT DOWN.
114
Planting
Step 8 If the rootball is balled and burlapped, cut the rope at the top
of the ball and pull down the top 1/3 of the burlap. If the material is synthetic,
remove it completely. Be very gentle and slide the synthetic fabric out from
the bottom of the hole by gently rolling the tree or shrub. For large trees and
shrubs this task takes several strong people to do properly. Remove wire
cages.
Step 9 Fill half the hole with backfill. Check that the plant is still straight in the hole.
Firm the soil down and fill the hole with water.
Step 10 After the water has drained into the ground, continue to add more backfill mix
firming the soil as you add more. Keep checking that the plant is straight
because as soil is added and tamped around the rootball, the tree or shrub
might tilt from one side to the other unless firmly held in place.
Step 11 Build a saucer-like basin around the plant. Firmly tamp the basin walls. The
“saucer” must be strong enough to hold water. Shrub saucers should be at
least two feet in diameter, tree saucers at least three feet in diameter.
BUILD A SAUCER-LIKE BASIN
MULCH
KEEP THE EDGE BETWEEN
TAMP WALLS GRASS AND MULCH NEAT
OF THE BASIN
Step 12 Spread mulch two to three inches deep around the plant. Make sure not to
push the mulch up against the trunk of the tree or to bury lower limbs of
shrubs.
Step 13 Water the plant well. Leave a hose in the basin with the water turned on low
for an hour.
115
Planting
Step 14 Carefully prune off any broken or damaged branches.
Step 15 If planting a tree, wrap the trunk with a special tree wrapping paper to protect
the young, tender trunk from the direct rays of the sun and to prevent
excessive water loss. Trees do not need to be supported with stakes and
guy wires. Recent studies indicate that stakes and guy wires do more
damage than help.
TAPE PATCH
WRAP NEWLY PLANTED TREES

WITH TREE WRAP. SECURE THE WRAP
WITH TAPE. DO NOT WRAP THE TAPE
AROUND THE TREE. BECAUSE AS THE
TREE GROWS THE TAPE CAN GIRDLE (OR
CHOKE) THE TREE. INSTEAD SECURE
THE TREE WRAP WITH A TAPE PATCH
......................................................
For more information about planting trees and shrubs see:
Gardening Techniques, Ortho Books, pages 42 - 45 by Lee Foster (1984).
Landscaping: Time-Life Home Repair and Improvement Series, pages 75 - 80. Editor:
Paul Porter (1983).
116
Maintenance
Why care for newly planted trees and shrubs?

Newly planted trees and shrubs are unlikely to survive if they do not get special
care and attention.
• Give new trees and shrubs special attention (watering, mulching, and pruning) for
three years after planting.
• Think of newly planted trees as young babies or children. Just as they need special
attention to grow up strong and healthy, so do young trees and shrubs.
• Regular deep watering of new trees and shrubs is extremely important for
three years. The person watering should be trained in pruning trees and shrubs so
he/she can constantly monitor the plants for damage.
• Prune broken branches immediately. Broken branches that are not removed
immediately invite further damage and disease.
117
Maintenance
Equipment
Hose
Soaker Hose
Mulch Fork
Pruning Saw
Sprinkler
Hand Pruner
Wheelbarrow
Schedule
See schedules in:

Pruning Trees
Edging and Mulching
118
Maintenance
How to care for newly planted trees and shrubs
WATER Water newly planted trees and shrubs once a week during the summer and
autumn months. Newly planted trees and shrubs need lots of water the first
few years to establish good root systems.
Watering must be thorough. Allow time for the water to soak deep into the
soil and to penetrate the roots of the plant.
A good measure for thorough soaking is to stick your finger into the soil and
check to see that the soil is moist at least 4" down.
MULCH Mulch should always be 2" - 3" deep around the tree and shrub beds. Apply
additional mulch as necessary to maintain the beds. Put new trees and
shrubs on the regular mulching schedule. See Edging and Mulching.
WEEDING Do not allow weeds to grow at the base of newly planted trees and shrubs. If
lawn mowers and string trimmers are used to remove grass and weeds
around shrubs and trees, they are likely to damage bark. Damaged tree
trunks and shrub stems encourage disease and sucker growth.
GUYING If a contractor has installed stakes and guy wires on newly planted trees, the
stakes and guys should be removed one year after planting. If stakes or
guy wires are damaged or broken they must be removed immediately.
119
Maintenance
PRUNE Prune broken, ripped or dead branches immediately. Repairing vandalism

immediately is the best way to discourage further vandalism. For
instructions on how and where to make a proper pruning cut, see Pruning
Trees and Shrubs.
REPORT Report to the school Principal any trees or shrubs that have been planted
within the last year and that have died. The Principal will need to report to
the Project Manager at the Department of Neighborhood Development.
If the trees and shrubs are planted by a contractor, they are often
guaranteed to live for one year. However, the guarantee is valid only if
the plants have been properly cared for and are not victims of
vandalism.
......................................................
For more information about newly planted trees and shrubs see:
Landscaping, Time-Life Home Repair and Improvement Series, pages 75-80, 85-88.
Editor: Paul Porter (1983)
Gardening Techniques, Ortho Books, pages 42-43, 102. By Lee Foster (1984)
120
FLOWER POWER
Flowers are part of the universal human

language, symbolizing caring, beauty and joy
Schedule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Recommended flowers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125

Annuals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Perennials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Bulbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
High impact/protected flower beds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
Designs for sun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
Designs for half shade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Suggested flower combinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
Bed preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141

New beds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
Established beds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
Planting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
Annuals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
Perennials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Bulbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
Annuals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
Perennials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
Bulbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
121
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FLOWER POWER
Why plant flowers?
Flowers add visual interest, cheer people up and help make schoolyards look and
feel welcoming and well cared for. Flowers help to reduce the negative impression
some people have about schoolyards and increase students’ and staffs’ pride.
Flowers create a living laboratory for teachers’ curriculum, Friends group’s
community outreach and neighborhood appreciation.
i Flowers cannot substitute for a well-maintained background of trees, shrubs and

lawns. If you must choose among them, do the lawn first, then the trees and
shrubs, and finally, when the rest of the green landscape looks nice, the flowers.
i It’s better to plant a few beds of flowers in very visible places and take good care of
them than to plant more flowers and fall behind on maintenance.
i Simply designed flower beds are easiest to maintain. Beds with only one or two
bright colors can have a striking and powerful impact.
i Most flowers do best in full sun.
i Flower beds should be planted in high impact/protected places such as:

• planters
• behind a fence along a main street or busy corner
• at main entrances, protected by a curb or fence
• along very visible walls passed by many people
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FLOWER POWER
Schedule
Design flower beds – January
Order annuals & perennials – January
Prepare beds for planting – April or October/November of the previous year.
Plant perennials – mid-April/mid-June
Plant annuals – May/mid-June
Order bulbs – June

Water, deadhead & fertilize annuals twice a month – June thru mid-September
Weed & water perennials twice a month – June thru mid-September

Plant bulbs – September/October
Fall clean-up – October
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FLOWER POWER
Recommended Flowers
Flowers recommended for schoolyards
Although there are many different flowers available, some flower varieties are tried
and true. These are among the flowers most appropriate for plantings at
schoolyards. Also, teachers may desire tried and true “natives” (a great way to tie
together botany, history, math, etc.)
Remember, a simple well maintained planting of a single variety and color of a well-
behaved flower (one that will not spread aggressively, is not an invasive that
displaces native species or does not become “weedy”) is infinitely more effective
than an unmaintained weedy bed with six different kinds and colors of flowers.
If you choose more than one variety of flower, choose different (complimentary)
heights, colors, textures, size and seasonal interest.
ANNUALS PERENNIALS BULBS

Begonia Day Lilies Crocus
Geranium Hosta Daffodils
Impatiens Bearded Iris Tulips
Marigolds Lilly-turf
Petunias Yucca
Salvia
Vinca
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FLOWER POWER
Recommended Flowers
Annuals
ANNUALS
Description: • A flowering plant that needs to be installed yearly. It provides
continuous summer and fall color if staff follows recommended
maintenance, such as fertilizing, watering, deadheading and
occasionally staking. Examples of flowering annuals are petunias,
geraniums and marigolds.
Comments: • Annuals provide continuous bloom throughout one growing season.
i All recommended annuals:

• are easy to grow;
i can be massed (single variety planted in the whole bed);
i do well in planters and containers
i Annual beds are easy to clean up in the fall.
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FLOWER POWER
Recommended Flowers
Annuals
BEGONIA (Wax Begonia)

Begonia semperflurens
Plant size: 6-9" tall

Flower size: Clusters of 1-2" delicate flowers
Flower color: Pink, white or red flowers
Foliage: Small oval leaves
Exposure: Full sun to partial shade
Planting: Plant 8" apart. Use seedling plants.
Comments: When used in combination with other plants, put begonias near the front of the bed because
they are low, compact plants.
GERANIUM

Flower size: Large 2-4" blossoms
Flower color: Pink, red or white
Foliage: Large, fleshy leaves
Exposure: Full sun to partial shade
Planting: 12-15" apart. Use sturdy plants in at least 3" pots.
Comments: Removing flower heads as they fade will promote more blossoms.
IMPATIENS
Impatiens
Plant size: 6-15" tall, 10-24" across

Flower size: Profusion of 1-1½” flowers
Flower color: Red, scarlet, pink, salmon or white
Foliage: Small, oval leaves
Exposure: Prefer partial shade
Planting: Plant 8" apart. Use seedling plants.
Comments: Add continuous color to the garden. They do well as a border plant and in planters. Keep
well-watered. Impatiens do not need to be deadheaded.
MARIGOLDS
Tegetes
Plant size: 6-18" tall, depending on variety

Flower size: 1-3" single or double flowers
Flower color: Yellow, orange or russet
Foliage: Feathery foliage
Exposure: Sun
Planting: Plant smaller varieties 6" apart, taller ones 12-18" apart.
Comments: Very easy to grow and add bright color to the garden.
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FLOWER POWER
Recommended Flowers
Annuals
PETUNIAS
Pelargonium hortum

Flower size: 2-3" across
Flower color: Red, purple, white, pink, lavender, yellow
Exposure: Sunny location
Planting: 8-12" apart. Use seedling plants.
Comments: When used in combination with other flower, put petunias near the front of the bed because
they are low.
SALVIA
Salvia splendens

Flower size: Firm, dense tubes of florets
Flower color: Vivid red or blue
Foliage: Large, fleshy leaves
Exposure: Full sun
Planting: 12" apart. Use seedling plants.
Comments: Dramatic display with yellow marigolds.
VINCA
Vinca rosea

Flower size: 1½ across
Flower color: Pink, mauve, or white
Foliage: Dark green glossy leaves
Exposure: Full to partial shade
Comments: Use in plantings seen up close rather than at a distance.
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FLOWER POWER
Recommended Flowers
Perennials
PERENNIALS
Description: • Perennials are plants that die back to the ground in winter but then
come back again year after year in the spring, often flowering in the
spring, summer or fall. Examples of perennials are daylilies, bearded
iris, hosta,
Comments: • Each variety of perennial will flower for several weeks of the growing
season. It is important to use perennials that have attractive leaves
because the flowers will not be around the whole season.
i Perennials require less maintenance than annuals because they do not

have to be replanted every spring or fertilized as often during the growing
season.
i Although perennials tend to cost more to purchase than annuals, they

tend to come back each year. Because they are usually divided every
three years, the newly divided plants can be used around the schoolyard
to beautify additional areas.
i Choose perennials that will survive cold winters, hot summers, drought-
like conditions, poor soil, etc. When hardy plants are chosen, they will
thrive with basic care.
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FLOWER POWER
Recommended Flowers
Perennials
DAYLILIES
Hemerocallis sp.
Plant size: 2½-3'

Flower size: 6" large lily-like flowers
Flower color: Yellow oranges, salmon, red
Foliage: Tall, reed-like leaves
Exposure: Sun or partial shade
Planting: 18-24" apart. Use tubers.
Comments: Requires minimal care. Attractive foliage. Should be planted in large groups. Can be used
on banks for erosion control.
Recommended
Hybrids: Carefully select or have nursery select a mix of hybrid daylilies with an extended three-month
bloom. A yellow mix is highly recommended because it will coordinate better with other
flower colors.
HOSTA
Hosta sp.

Flower size: 1-2" lily-like flowers on tall spike
Flower color: Violet, white
Foliage: Extremely large, rounded, lance-shaped leaves
Exposure: Partial to full shade
Planting: 12-18" apart. Use seedling plants.
Comments: Very easy to grow. Extremely tolerant. Planted for their large attractive foliage which have a
great variety of textures and variations. Good for massing as groundcover. Does well in
shade.
Recommended
Hybrids: Hosta sieboldiana (H. glavca)
Blue-green striped leaves, 2' tall by 2' wide, lavender flowers.
Hosta sieboldii (H. alba-marginata)

Green leaves with cream-colored edge, 1½’ tall, purple-lilac blooms.
Hosta plantagienea
Large green leaves, 1½ tall, white flowers.
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FLOWER POWER
Recommended Flowers
Perennials
BEARDED IRIS
Iris
Plant size: 3' tall

Flower size: 5" across
Flower color: Purple, violet, blue or yellow
Foliage: Tall, reed-like leaves
Exposure: Sun
Planting: Plant rhizomes in Sept. 12" apart. Be sure to plant just below the surface of the soil.
Comments: Popular for its showy flowers in June. Need to be divided and replanted every 4-5 years. To
do so, dig up rhizomes in Sept. and cut off old growth with sharp knife. Allow to sit in sun 1
day so that cuts can callous. Replant rhizome just below surface of the soil.
LILY-TURF
Liriope muscari

Flower size: Small, thin 2" flower stalks
Flower color: Lavender
Foliage: Narrow, grass-like leaves
Exposure: Full sun or shade
Comments: Low growing durable plant that can be used to edge flower and shrub beds or used as a
ground cover. Lily-turf is valued for its attractive grass-like foliage which grows in neat small
clumps. Plant only south of Philadelphia.
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FLOWER POWER
Recommended Flowers
Bulbs
BULBS
Description: • Perennial plants whose fleshy food-storage organs survive
underground after their foliage dies back each year. Tulips, daffodils
(bulbs) and crocus (corms, similar to bulbs) are examples.
Comments: • Spring-flowering bulbs such as tulips and daffodils are planted in the fall.
• Spring-flowering bulbs flower for several weeks and then begin to die.
The leaves stay green for 4-8 weeks after the flowers fade and then they
turn brown and wilt. (It is important not to cut off the browning leaves
as they furnish energy to the plant for next year’s flowers.)
• Daffodils and crocus multiply over the years (naturalize) when properly
cared for. Tulips need to be replanted every few years.
• Choose bulbs that will survive cold winters, hot summers, drought-like
conditions, poor soil, etc. When hardy plants are chosen, they will thrive
with basic care.
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FLOWER POWER
Recommended Flowers
Bulbs
CROCUS
Crocus vernus

Flower size: 1½”
Flower color: Yellow, purple
Foliage: 4-6" grass-like leaves
Exposure: Sun to partial shade
Planting: Plant 3" apart, 4" deep. Plant in groups of 6-10 bulbs. Plant in fall.
Comments: Blooms in early spring. Multiplies quickly. Plant in the front of a shrub bed in masses. If
Hosta are planted near crocus, the Hosta will hide the fading crocus leaves in late spring.
DAFFODILS
Narcissus sp.
Plant size: 1'-2’ tall

Flower size: 2-3"
Flower color: Yellow
Foliage: Tall green slender leaves
Exposure: Full sun or partial shade
Planting: Plant 8" apart, in groups of 4-8 bulbs. Plant bulbs in fall.
Comments: Bright yellow flower in April. Good for massing. Dies back in early summer. Allow leaves to
turn brown and wilt before removing. Will multiply.
Recommended
Varieties: King Alfred, Unsurpassable
TULIPS
Plant size: 1½ - 2½’ tall

Flower size: 2-4"
Flower color: Red, yellow, pink, white, or tangerine
Foliage: Tall green slender leaves
Exposure: Prefer full sun
Planting: Plant in clumps 18" apart. Plant bulbs in fall.
Comments: Bright colored flowers bloom in May. Good for massing. Allow leaves to turn brown and wilt
before removing.
Recommended
Varieties: Darwin hybrids
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FLOWER POWER
Design
Why design flower beds?
It is important to carefully design the beds to give the greatest impact for the time
and expense required.
The key concepts to remember when planning and designing flower beds for
schoolyards are:
• High impact Locate beds where many people will see them.
• Low risk Protect the flowers by placing the bed behind a fence, or away
from immediate foot traffic protected by a curb or low wall.
Flowers in public places must be safe.
• Simplicity Keep flower beds simple! Simple shapes for beds like
rectangles and ovals are much easier to construct, plant and
maintain than complicated designs. Also keep flower choices
simple. Choose no more than three types of flowers per bed,
preferably two. A bed planted only with marigolds or only with
impatiens is much easier to maintain and is more visually
effective than a bed with four or five different kinds of flowers in
it.
• Visibility Yellow and red flowers are more visible than other flowers from
a distance. Softer pastel colors are wonderful for beds seen up
close.
• Less is More A few well-placed, well-planted and maintained flower beds will
have a greater public impact than twice as many haphazard or
unmaintained beds.
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FLOWER POWER
Design
PLAN HIGH IMPACT/PROTECTED FLOWER PLANTINGS:
•
In planters and raised beds
• Behind a fence along a main street or busy corner
• At main entrances
• Along a street passed by many people
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FLOWER POWER
Design
Flowers for full sun, a few examples:

Begonia Day Lilies Tulips
Geranium Bearded Iris Daffodils
Marigolds Sedum Crocus
Petunias Yucca
Salvia
Vinca
Full sun, a few design examples:
TALL YELLOW MARIGOLDS

RED GERANIUMS
WHITE GERANIUMS
SHORT YELLOW
YELLOW DAYLILIES OR BEARDED IRIS

RED TULIPS OR DAFFODILS
GERANIUMS, MARIGOLDS, SALVIA or VINCA
SEDUM
YUCCA RED GERANIUMS OR MARIGOLDS
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FLOWER POWER
Design
Flowers for half shade, a few examples:

Begonia Day Lilies Crocus
Geranium Hosta Daffodils
Impatiens
Vinca
Half shade, a few design examples:
IMPATIENS OR BEGONIAS
YELLOW DAYLILIES
RED GERANIUMS
DAFFODILS (The daffodil bulbs will flower in the

spring. After the daffodil blooms fade the HOSTA
HOSTA leaves will cover the daffodil foliage)
WALL OR BUILDING
IMPATIENS, BEGONIA, VINCA OR GERANIUMS
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FLOWER POWER
Design
Suggested plant combinations for annuals
Here are some tried and true combinations. When in doubt about how to combine
colors, a good rule of thumb is to create a bed with just one flowering plant
(example: all red geraniums, all pink begonias, all yellow marigolds).
Some good combinations to try:
• Red geraniums, blue salvia
• Yellow marigolds, red salvia
• Red geraniums, white petunias
• Red geraniums, white or pink begonias
• Yellow and/or orange marigolds, blue salvia
• Tall yellow marigolds with short orange marigolds
• White petunias can be added to any of these combinations
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FLOWER POWER
Design
Suggested plant combinations for

perennials, bulbs and annuals
• Hostas and mixed-color impatiens in front (IN HALF SHADE)
• Hostas, crocus, daffodils with any color begonia in front (IN SUN OR
PARTIAL SHADE)
• Crocus and impatiens (IN HALF SHADE)
• Three sedum plants surrounded by a bed of begonias (IN FULL SUN)
• Daylilies (yellows), daffodils and with any color petunia in front (IN FULL
SUN)
• Daylilies and daffodils with orange and/or yellow marigolds and blue salvia in
front (IN FULL SUN)
• Daylilies (all yellows: three-month season of bloom mixed hybrids), hostas,

daffodils and crocus, with
IN HALF SHADE: Impatiens or begonias in front
IN FULL SUN: Short yellow and/or orange marigolds
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FLOWER POWER
Bed Preparation
Why prepare flower beds?
Proper, careful preparation of flower beds makes planting and maintaining the
flower bed easier and more efficient.
• Make sure new beds are located in appropriate place.
• Mulching the bed will reduce weeds and help to retain water.
• If flower bed is not going to be planted within 24 - 36 hours, water the bed with a
sprinkler for 1 hour.
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FLOWER POWER
Bed Preparation
Equipment
Hand Edger
Iron Rake
Wheelbarrow
Cultivating Fork
Pointed Spade
Tape
String Measure
Schedule Sledge Hammer
Prepare flower beds for planting in April or prepare them in October/November for the
following year.
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FLOWER POWER
Bed Preparation
New flower bed preparation
Step 1 With the help of a landscape designer, locate where the flower bed is to be
constructed.
Step 2 Mark out the bed with string, stakes, sledge hammer and a tape measure.
• 2"x4"x8' board (optional)

• Hand Edger
• Iron Rake
• Peat Moss
• Fertilizer
• Wheelbarrow
Step 4 Using a hand edger, cut a line around the outside edge of the flower bed
using the string as a guide. For long straight edges, a 2 X 4 board is often
helpful to use as a guide line.
Step 5 Remove the grass inside the flower bed. Use a pointed spade held at a low
angle to the ground to lift out the grass and grass roots and put them in the
wheelbarrow. Leave as much soil in the flower bed as possible.
Step 6 Using the spade (or cultivating fork) turn over the soil to a depth of 12" (about
the height of the spade).
Step 7 Put three to four inches of peat moss on top of the bed.
To estimate how much peat moss you will need:

• one bag of peat moss (6 cubic feet) will cover a 25 square foot bed (for
instance, a bed 5' X 5')
• four bags of peat moss (6 cubic feet each) will cover a 100 square foot
bed (for instance, a bed 5' X 20' or 2½’ X 40')
Step 8 Lightly sprinkle 5-10-10 or 5-10-5 fertilizer over the peat moss.
Step 9 Now mix everything together—the soil, peat moss and fertilizer.
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FLOWER POWER
Bed Preparation
Step 10 Smooth out the surface of the flower bed using an iron rake. The soil can be
mounded slightly higher in the center of the bed.
MOUND SOIL SLIGHTLY HIGHER

LEAVE ROOM FOR 2" OF MULCH IN THE CENTER OF THE BED
RE-DEFINE EDGE OF BED

WITH HAND EDGER
Step 11 Re-define the edge of the bed with the hand edger for a neat, clean
appearance.
2" SHREDDED PINE BARK MULCH
Step 12 Spread 2" of shredded pine bark mulch over the bed.
Step 13 The bed is now ready to plant. If the flower seedlings are not going to be
planted immediately (24-36 hours) set a sprinkler up and water the bed for
one hour.
Step 14 Throw grass and grass roots collected into the seasonal City recycling.
Return equipment to the tool storage area.
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FLOWER POWER
Bed Preparation
Established Flower Beds
Established flower bed preparation

• Pointed Spade or Cultivating Fork
• Iron Rake
• Hand Edger
• Peat Moss
• Fertilizer
Step 2 Rake old bark mulch off the flower bed onto a tarp set next to the bed. This
will be used again.
Step 3 Re-define the edge of the bed with a hand-edger.
Step 4 Using a pointed spade or a cultivating fork, turn over the soil.
Step 5 Spread 2" of peat moss over the top of the soil.
Step 6 Lightly sprinkle 5-10-10 or 5-10-5 fertilizer over the peat moss.
Step 7 Now mix everything together—the soil, peat moss and fertilizer.
Step 8 Smooth out the surface of the flower bed using an iron rake. The soil can be
mounded slightly higher in the center of the bed.
MOUND SOIL SLIGHTLY

HIGHER IN THE CENTER
LEAVE ROOM FOR 2" OF MULCH OF THE BED
RE-DEFINE EDGE OF BED WITH HAND EDGER
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FLOWER POWER
Bed Preparation
Established Flower Beds
Step 9 Re-define the edge of the bed with the hand edger for a neat, clean
appearance.
Step 10 Put the old bark mulch back on top of the soil and add new shredded pine
bark mulch to make a total of 2 inches of mulch spread evenly over the bed.
Step 11 The bed is now ready to plant. If the flower seedlings are not going to be
planted immediately (24-36 hours), set a sprinkler and water bed for one
hour.
Step 12 Return equipment to tool storage area.
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FLOWER POWER
Planting
Why plant flowers carefully?

Flowers that are planted with care and attention will thrive and produce a good
display of color. It is a waste of time, money and effort if planting is not properly
done.
DDD. Clearly understand where annuals, perennials or bulbs are to be planted

before starting.
EEE. Plant one section of the flower bed at a time. To make sure that plants are
evenly spaced, it is a good idea to divide the bed and the number of plants or
bulbs in quarters (by four).
FFF. Be sure not to step on seedlings or plants after they are planted. Work from
the back of the bed (near shrubs, wall or fence) out to the front edge
or
i If the bed is accessible from all sides, start planting at the center and work
outwards.
i Always push mulch away from the stems of seedlings and plants. Mulch should be
in a saucer-like shape around plants. Mulch placed directly against plant stems
promotes rot and disease.
i Add any planting to the Site Plan and Planting Plan.
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FLOWER POWER
Planting
Equipment
Hand Trowel
Tape
Measure
Pointed Spade
Sprinkler
Hose
Schedule
Plant perennials in mid-April - mid-June.
Plant annual seedlings in May - mid-June.
Plant spring flowering bulbs September to October.
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FLOWER POWER
Planting
Annuals
How to plant annuals
Annual Seedlings
Hand Trowel
5-10-5 Fertilizer
Tape Measure
Hose
Sprinkler
Step 2 Understand the flower bed design—what plants go where. Know how many
inches apart the seedlings should be planted (check Recommended
Flowers.)
Step 3 Plant each seedling with a hand trowel.
Drive the trowel into the mulch and soil.
Open a hole by pulling the trowel back several inches.
Gently place the seedling in the hole. Make sure the roots are in contact
with soil. (Do not plant the seedling in mulch.)
Gently but firmly press the soil back around the roots with your hands.
Push mulch away from the seedling stem. The mulch should form a saucer
shape around each seedling.
• PLACE SEEDING IN HOLE

AND THEN GENTLY BUT FIRMLY
• USING A HAND TROWEL PUSH THE SOIL BACK
OPEN A POCKET IN THE SOIL AROUND THE SEEDLING
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FLOWER POWER
Planting
Annuals
• PUSH MULCH AWAY FROM SEEDLING STEMS - CREATE A

SAUCER-LIKE SHAPE OF MULCH AROUND EACH SEEDLING
Step 4 Continue planting each seedling until the entire bed is planted.
Step 5 After seedlings have been planted, lightly sprinkle 5-10-5 fertilizer around the
bed (approximately one tablespoon per seedling).
Step 6 Set up a hose and sprinkler and water the newly planted bed for
approximately one hour.
Step 7 Return all equipment to the tool storage area.
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FLOWER POWER
Planting
Perennials
How to plant annuals
Perennials
Hand Trowel
Shovel (pointed spade)
5-10-5 Fertilizer
Tape Measure
Hose
Sprinkler
Step 2 Understand the flower bed design—what plants go where. Know how far
apart the perennials should be planted. (Check Recommended Flowers.)
Step 3 Leaving the plants in their containers, set them on top of the bed. Check
their placement for symmetry and spacing.
Step 4 Start planting the perennials that are at the back of the bed. Always work
from back to front.
Step 5 To plant the perennials, first pull the mulch several feet away from where the
hole is to be dug.
Using a hand trowel or pointed space (depending on size of perennial) dig a

hole approximately the depth of the perennial container and about 6-8 inches
wider than the width of the container. Leave the excavated soil next to the
hole so it can be used for backfill.
Step 6 Sprinkle about 2 tablespoons of 5-10-10 fertilizer at the bottom of the hole.
Mix the fertilizer in with some of the soil.
Step 7 Take the perennial out of the container. If it does not come out easily, tap
the bottom of the container firmly with your palm.
Step 8 Before placing the perennial in the hole, gently loosen the soil around the
roots. The goal is not to break up the whole root ball, but to loosen the
outside edges of the soil and root mass.
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FLOWER POWER
Planting
Perennials
Step 9 Place the perennial in the hole and backfill the hole with the excavated soil.
Gently but firmly pack the soil back in the hole around the plant. Do not
plant perennials too deep! The should be planted in the hole so that the
soil from their container is at the same level as the soil in the bed.
Step 10 Now push the mulch back around the plant. Form a saucer shape with the
mulch so that the mulch is no deeper than ½” next to the plant stem.
Step 11 Continue planting each perennial.
Step 12 After the bed is completed, set up the hose and sprinkler and water the bed
for approximately one hour.
Step 13 Return equipment to the tool storage area.
MULCH RAKED BACK SEVERAL FEET
EXCAVATED SOIL
• FIRMLY TAMP BACKFILL

• DIG HOLE THE DEPTH AROUND THE PLANT.
OF THE CONTAINER PUSH MULCH AWAY FROM
AND SEVERAL INCHES WIDER STEM OF PLANT.
152
FLOWER POWER
Planting
Bulbs
How to plant bulbs
Bulbs
Shovel (pointed spade)
Hand Trowel
Superphosphate
5-10-5 Fertilizer
Tape Measure
Step 2 Read the label attached to the package of bulbs to determine what kind of
bulbs they are (tulips, daffodils, crocus).
Step 3 Check to be sure that the bulbs are firm like a fresh apple. If they are soft or
mushy, they should be returned for credit or disposed of away from the
planting site.
Step 4 Understand the flower bed design—where the bulbs are to be planted. Know
how deep and how far apart the bulbs are to be planted. (Check
Recommended Flowers.)
FOR THE MOST ATTRACTIVE EFFECT ALWAYS PLANT GROUPS OF 5 - 10 BULBS —

NEVER PLANT BULBS IN STRAIGHT LINES. SPACE THE BULBS PROPERLY:
DAFFODILS ~ 6 - 8" APART, TULIPS ~ 6" APART, CROCUS ~ 5"
Step 5 If the area to be planted is covered with mulch, rake it back several feet.
153
FLOWER POWER
Planting
Bulbs
Step 6 A general rule for planting bulbs is that the bulb is planted 3 to 4 times
deeper than the actual length of the bulb itself, which varies according to the
different varieties. For example, a daffodil bulb is approximately 2" long and
should be planted 6-8" deep. Tulips are planted approximately 6" deep,
crocus, 3".
Dig the soil out of the area several inches deeper than the depth the bulb will
be planted (daffodils 10", tulips 8", crocus 5").
Return 2" of soil into the hole and mix with one teaspoon each of 5-10-5
fertilizer and superphosphate per bulb. This should be lightly packed down
so the bulbs will sit on top of the enriched soil. The planting area should now
be at the proper depth for planting (daffodils 6-8", tulips 6", crocus 3").
GROUND LEVEL
PLANT BULBS WITH POINTED END UP
PLANTING DEPTH:
DAFFODILS ~ 6-8"
TULIPS ~ 6"
CROCUS ~ 3"
ENRICHED SOIL -
TAMP BEFORE PLACING BULBS
Step 7 Take a group of bulbs out of the bag and place them on top of the enriched
soil. Arrange the bulbs with the pointed ends up and at the proper distance
from each other (approximately 6-8" apart for daffodils, 6" for tulips, and 5"
apart for crocus).
Step 8 Cover the bulbs with the excavated soil. Tamp the soil down firmly.
Step 9 Cover the planting bed with 2" of bark mulch.
Step 10 Water the area in the fall if rainfall is insufficient.
Step 11 Return equipment to the tool storage area.
Look for green shoots of plants in late February or March. Bulbs will
flower in late March - June (depending on the varieties planted).
154
FLOWER POWER
Maintenance
Why maintain beds?

Flower beds located in very visible places will be seen by many people—flowers
attract attention! If the flower beds are well maintained, weeded and edged, the
impression of the whole schoolyard will be improved.
i Schedule specific days each month for flower bed maintenance. Remember, flower
beds should not be planted unless time is set aside for maintaining them.
i Mulching flower beds with shredded bark mulch saves time weeding. Some weeks
will grow through the mulch but only a fraction of what would grow without the
mulch. Weeds growing through mulch are easier to pull.
i Keep the edge of the flower bed far enough away from the flowers so a lawn mower
can pass around the bed without damaging the flowers.
155
FLOWER POWER
Maintenance
Equipment
Trowel
Hand Edger
Hose
Sprinkler
Schedule
ANNUALS
Twice a month: weed, water, fertilize, deadhead – June - mid-September

Once a month: edge beds – June - mid-September
Fall cleanup – November
PERENNIALS
Fertilize – April
Twice a month: weed, water – June - September
Once a month: edge beds
Fall cleanup – November
BULBS
Fertilize after bulbs flower – April - May

Cut back browned foliage – June - Mid-July
156
FLOWER POWER
Maintenance
Annuals
How to care for annuals
SUMMER
Schedule maintenance work twice a month. To make scheduling easy, choose specific
days such as the 1st and 15th of each month.
WEED Weeds crowd annuals and rob them of needed nutrients and water.
Weeding also helps maintain a neat, attractive bed.
Twice a month, remove all weeds from the flower bed using a hand
trowel. Try to remove the weed roots as well as the leaves. Throw
weeds out into the compost or the seasonal City recycling.
DEADHEAD Annuals such as geraniums, marigolds, petunias and salvia produce

many more flowers if their faded flowers are removed. If the faded
flowers are not removed, the plant begins to produce seed. This process
uses energy which could be used instead to produce more flowers.
Other annuals such as impatiens and begonias do not need to be
deadheaded.
Twice a month, deadhead annuals by gently picking off the faded

flowers. Be careful not to break main stems of the plant. Throw faded
flowers out into the compost or seasonal City recycling.
FERTILIZE There are two methods that can be used to fertilize annuals.
& WATER One method is use a granular 5-10-5 fertilizer. The other method is to
liquid feed the annuals using a hose end sprayer. Currently, most
commercial landscape maintenance crews use the liquid feed method.
Both methods will achieve the same results with proper watering.
157
FLOWER POWER
Maintenance
Annuals
Method #1
Twice a month, lightly sprinkle 5-10-5 fertilizer around the annuals
(approximately 1 teaspoon per plant). Be careful to avoid any heavy
concentrations of fertilizer because the fertilizer can burn and kill the
annuals.
After fertilizing, set up hose and sprinklers and water the bed thoroughly.
Method #2
Twice a month, water annual beds thoroughly and then fertilize the beds
using an all-purpose lawn and garden hose end sprayer. Fertilizer used
with the hose end sprayer should be a product specifically formulated for
flowering annuals such as Miracle Grow, Peters or alternative. For cost
efficiency, purchase these products in large quantities (25 lb. canisters).
Follow the application rates recommended by the manufacturer.
EDGE BEDS Once a month, use a hand edger to redefine the edges of the bed.
This helps to maintain a neat attractive appearance and helps prevent
weeds from growing into the annual bed.
FALL
FALL Schedule fall clean-up of annual beds late in October.

CLEAN-UP
Pull up the annuals and put them into compost or seasonal City
recycling. (Classrooms might be offered the geraniums in late
September when they can pot them and use them as house plants.)
Remove any weeds left in the bed and throw these into the seasonal City
recycling.
Using a leaf rake, lightly rake the bed smooth. Do not remove the mulch.
Leaving the bed neat for the winter will greatly reduce work in the spring
when there is more to do.
158
FLOWER POWER
Maintenance
Perennials
How to care for perennials
SPRING
FERTILIZE Lightly sprinkle 5-10-5 fertilizer around perennials in the early spring as
they begin to emerge from the ground.
SUMMER
As with annuals, schedule maintenance work twice a month. To make scheduling easy,
choose specific days such as the 1st and the 15th of each month.
WEED Twice a month, remove all weeds from the flower bed using a hand
trowel. Throw weeds into the compost or seasonal City recycling.
WATER After weeding, set up a hose and sprinkler and water perennials well.
Small beds can be watered by hand using a hose with a water breaker
hose attachment. A hose attachment must be used to prevent the force
of water from dislodging the plants from the ground. (Note: if perennials
are located adjacent to annuals and custodial staff chooses to liquid feed
and water annuals, for sake of simplicity this method can also be used for
the perennials. In this case, the Spring fertilizing with the 5-10-5 can be
eliminated.)
EDGE BEDS Once a month, use a hand edger to redefine the edges of the bed.
This helps to maintain a neat, attractive appearance and helps
prevent weeds from growing into the perennial bed.
159
FLOWER POWER
Maintenance
Perennials
FALL
FALL
CLEAN-UP By late November, many of the perennial leaves will have turned brown
and will be lying on the ground. Remove the dead leaves by cutting them
off about an inch from the ground.
Remove any weeds remaining in the bed. Deposit dead perennial foliage
and weeds into compost or seasonal City recycling. Leaving the bed
neat and tidy for the winter will decrease work in the spring when there is
more to do.
Note where additional or replacement perennials are needed in the bed.

Work with Friends group to request or order the perennials now and ask
for an early spring delivery.
160
FLOWER POWER
Maintenance
Bulbs
How to care for bulbs
SPRING
FERTILIZE After bulbs have flowered, lightly sprinkle 5-10-5 fertilizer on the ground
around the foliage. The bulbs will use the fertilizer to produce flowers for
the following spring.
SUMMER
TRIM
FOLIAGE Six to eight weeks after spring bulbs have flowered, the leaves from the
bulb will start to wither and turn brown. Using a sharp knife, scissors or a
by-pass hand pruner, but the foliage off one inch above the ground.
Deposit trimmed foliage in compost or seasonal City recycling.
Note where additional or replacement bulbs are needed. Share

information with schoolyard Friends group.
161
162
PLAY AREAS, FENCES
& BENCHES
Landscape maintenance involves the care of hard

surfaces as well as the care of trees, shrubs and grass. The good condition of these
elements in the landscape creates a reassuring sense of order and conveys a high
standard of excellence.
Play areas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165

Daily inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
Monthly inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Fences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Benches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
163
164
Play Areas
Why maintain playgrounds and tot lots?

Children need attractive, well maintained, safe places to play. When these are
lacking, children will create their own activities, some of which can be destructive.
Good maintenance of play areas is also preventive maintenance of other spaces.
i Schoolyards must be regularly patrolled for litter and hazardous conditions. Playgrounds
that are regularly maintained and patrolled are less likely to be used for other than their
intended purpose.
i A trash can should be located in, or at least very near, each play area. Complaints about
messy litter around public trash cans usually come from cans that are not regularly and
frequently emptied. Empty daily!
i Every month playgrounds and play equipment should be formally inspected. An inspection
with a simple checklist will not take long but is important to maintaining good safe places for
children to play.
i Schoolyard inspections will be much faster and easier if done when children are likely to be
there. For instance, loose footings on swing sets are more noticeable if children are swinging
on them.
i Scrutinize play area surfaces. Remember, little kids are often not sure of their step and that
older kids are often running so fast they won’t see imperfections on the ground surface. Tree
roots, exposed footings, wood edges or other obstacles can be hazardous. Something that
changes a surface level only one or two inches is actually more dangerous than an eight to ten
inch change in grade.
i Check fibar or rubberized surface for breaks in the surface. Depth should be at least 10" -
12".
i Be sure to check the slide bed and slide bed edges to make sure there are no sharp or
rough metal edges or surfaces.
165
Play Areas
Equipment
Wire Brush
Paint
Wrench
Brush
Socket
Wrench
Push Broom
Iron Rake
Schedule Metal Rake
Patrol play areas daily for litter, glass, rocks, and other surface hazards.
Inspect equipment monthly from March through November.
166
Play Areas
Daily Inspection
Daily inspection for play areas
Step 1 Pick up litter.
Step 2 Empty trash barrels.
Step 3 If there is broken glass, remove it.
Step 4 Once a week, rake fibar underneath play equipment. Raking will help keep
the play area clean but the goal is also to redistribute the surface material
under the equipment so it does not get compacted. There are many fewer
injuries when children fall on a loose, soft surface.
Step 5 If play equipment, fences, or benches have been damaged, report to the
Principal:
What was damaged (slide, swing, bench, gates, etc.)?

___________________________________________________
___________________________________________________
___________________________________________________
What is needed to repair the damage?

___________________________________________________
___________________________________________________
___________________________________________________
When can the repair be done?

_____ immediately
_____ within 3 - 5 days
_____ after parts are ordered and arrive
_____ damage is severe; total replacement may be necessary
Step 6 If any hazards are present, report immediately to the Principal (for example,
large broken tree limbs, broken equipment with dangerous sharp edges,
uneven ground surfaces that can be tripped on, etc.) If hazards cannot be
immediately removed, post sign:
HAZARD! KEEP OFF.
167
Play Areas
Monthly Inspection
Monthly inspection for play areas
Step 1 Are all play equipment parts present and in good condition?
i Significant damage should be noticed and reported by the daily

inspection. Follow report procedure found in Daily Inspection.
Step 2 Are all ropes and chains securely fastened to equipment?
i “S” hooks that hold swings to the chains and the chains to the top bar
should be pinched closed at both ends.
SWING CHAINS
SHOULD NOT BE
ABLE TO SLIDE OFF
“S” HOOKS OR
SWINGS
PINCH CLOSE THE ENDS

FOR SAFETY
i Replace ropes and chains that are worn or frayed.
ROPES AND CHAINS

NEED TO BE CHECKED
FOR WEAR
REPLACE WHEN
NECESSARY
Step 3 Are all screws, nuts and bolts on equipment tight and secure?
i Tighten any loose screws or bolts.
i Make sure all screws, nuts and bolts are either recessed, covered
with a cap or plug, or sanded smooth and level.
168
Play Areas
Monthly Inspection
Step 4 Are all joints lubricated so that they do not stick or squeak?
Step 5 Are all play equipment surfaces smooth?
• Sand with sandpaper or power sander, wood surfaces that are rough
or splintered and/or metal surfaces that are rough or rusted.
• Pay particular attention to inspect handrails, slide bed edges and

other surfaces children sit or move on.
• Report to the Principal surfaces that have chipped or peeling paint so

repainting can be scheduled.
A BRIGHT FRESH COAT

OF PAINT ON DULL
METAL EQUIPMENT
WILL GREATLY IMPROVE
THE APPEARANCE
OF A PLAYGROUND
Step 6 Is all equipment stable and secure in their footings?
• If footings are loose or cracked:

a. Remove loose material around the footing (sand, mulch, soil, gravel,
stones, etc.)
b. Check that the equipment is level. Use a two foot level
c. Mix quick dry cement with water as indicated on the bag
d. Carefully pour cement mixture into area at the bottom of the base of
the footing.
e. Allow the cement to dry.
f. Immediately clean off all tools and equipment that was used to work
with the quick dry cement.
169
Play Areas
Monthly Inspection
Step 7 Are equipment footings below ground level? Children can trip on
footings exposed above the ground.
• If footings are exposed, regrade the surrounding areas to cover the footings. This
may require bringing in more fibar.
EXPOSED FOOTINGS
ARE EASY TO TRIP ON
ADD MORE SURFACE

MATERIAL (SAND, •
MULCH, SOIL, ETC.)
• If the footings are exposed and the equipment is unstable or crooked, then the old
footing needs to be removed and a new footing installed.
Step 8 Is the ground surface underneath the play equipment safe and in good
condition?
Fibar
• Measure the depth of surface material under equipment. Fibar

should be 10" - 12" deep for good safety. This will meet the
American Standards for Testing Materials. (ASTM)
• Raking the fibar weekly helps redistribute the surface material

under the equipment, but at least once a year new material will
need to be added. (Play area constructed on a good 10" - 12"
base of fibar will not need yearly additions of new fibar.)
170
Play Areas
Monthly Inspection
Rubberized surface
• Check that all joints and corners are snug; check that there is
no damage in poured surfaces. Any area of the surface that
does not fit tightly together or should be repaired. Be sure to
check around the footings of the equipment where irregular
joints in the matting often occur.
CHECK JOINTS AND CORNERS

OF SYNTHETIC OR RUBBER MATTING
THERE SHOULD BE NO
WARPING OR LIFTING
* If repairs cannot be done immediately, report to the Principal.

Any damages to the rubberized surface should be recorded
and the Principal informed because the matting or the surface
installation may be covered by a guarantee or warrantee.
Asphalt
• Check asphalt in play areas for wear or breakage. Small
repairs can be made with cold patch asphalt.
• Use a string trimmer to cut grass or weeds growing in

pavement cracks. Never use herbicides to remove weeds in
play areas. It is against the law.
171
Play Areas
Monthly Inspection
..............................................................
For more information about playground safety and
maintaining play areas:
Contact manufacturer of brand of play equipment found at the schoolyard. Request

maintenance and repair information. This information should be available to work crew as
well as administration/management.
Contact the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) for numerous articles
and information and checklists concerning playground and equipment safety,
maintenance, and education.
172
Fences
Why maintain fences?
Aside from grass and trees, fences are the most visible expression of the condition
of a schoolyard. When fences are in disrepair, students and the public can easily
disregard or overlook the rest of your good work. Fences that are severely
damaged serve no purpose and invite further vandalism to the remaining fence as
well as the plants nearby.
• Make small repairs as soon as possible after damage has occurred.
• Keep extra fence parts (poles, fabric, pickets, posts, wrought iron sections, etc.) in
stock so that repairs can be made immediately.
• Inspect fences three times a year, in March, July and November.

• Is there any badly damaged fencing that cannot be repaired?
• Are all fence posts in place and straight?
• Are all fence parts present and in good condition?
• Are fence surfaces in good condition (not rusty, splintered, chipped, or
peeling)?
• Severely damaged fencing that cannot be repaired or replaced immediately should

be removed. Report to the Principal specific information about damaged fencing to
new sections can be ordered and replacement scheduled. Remove damaged
fencing as instructed by management.
173
Fences
Equipment
Trowel
Shovel Paintbrush
Wrench
Two Foot Level
Hacksaw Wheelbarrow
In addition, have in stock:

Fence fabric stretcher (for chain link)
Chain link fabric (make sure gauge and height matches that currently in use)
Posts (metal or wood as appropriate)
Tension clips and band88888888888888887
Pickets
Rails
Metal sections to match existing metal fences
Schedule
Inspect fences three times a year:

• Make small repairs immediately.
• If needed, schedule larger fence maintenance tasks such as painting or
replacement for schoolyard Friends group.
• Report to the Principal fences damaged beyond repair.
174
Fences
How to inspect and maintain fences
Step 1 Is there any badly damaged fencing that cannot be repaired?
i Report to the Principal severely damaged fencing. Be specific about

location and extent of damage. Severely damaged fencing that
cannot be replaced or repaired immediately should be removed.
Remove damaged fencing as instructed by Facilities
Step 2 Are all fence posts in place and straight?
Chainlink Fence Posts
Before working on chainlink fence posts, release the chainlink fabric from the
post by untying the wires which hold the fabric to the pole. If fence fabric
must be removed from end or corner poles, tension bars and clips will need
to be removed if fence fabric needs to be removed from end or corner poles.
A good discussion of chainlink fences with excellent illustrations of chainlink

fence components is found in Fences, Decks and Other Backyard Projects,
2nd ed. by Dan Ramsey, Tab Books Inc., (1988) pp. 98-109, 240-22.
Although this book was written with the homeowner in mind, the illustrations
provide good basic reference and teaching tools. Specifications for chainlink
fences are on pp. 285-293. These are very useful when ordering new and
replacement parts.
Bent metal posts should be straightened by sliding a larger pipe over the
post. Use the leverage of the longer pipe to push the post to a straightened
position.
PLACE A LARGER PIPE

(LONGER AND WIDER)
OVER THE BEST POST
AND PUSH
THE LARGER PIPE ACTS

AS A LEVER
175
Fences
Broken metal posts can often be repaired by:

• Cutting off the damaged part of the post with a saw.
• Slip the slightly smaller pole into what remains of the original
one.
• Extend the new piece up to the height of the old pole.
• Fasten the old pole and the new pole together with a 3/8"
diameter galvanized bolt. Drill the hole with a light drill.
Severely damaged posts should be removed entirely and replaced:

i Remove the old concrete footing and broken post. Note
whether the replacement post is an end or corner post, or a line
post. End/corner posts are often larger than line posts.
LINE POSTS
i Dig a hole that is 2' - 2½’ deep and 12" wide. (Note: Call a
local fence supplier or contractor and ask how deep the
footings in your area are normally placed. The size and depth
of footings can sometimes vary due to particular qualities in
local soils or local winter temperatures.)
i Mix ready-mix concrete with water as directed on the bag.
i Pour cement into the hole and set new pole in.
176
Fences
• Use a two foot level to make sure post is

straight.
• Allow cement to harden.
Missing posts should be replaced:

cccc. If extra posts are not stocked, report to management to have
replacements ordered.
dddd. If the cement footing from the previous post is still in the
ground, remove it.
eeee. Set the new post in ground using ready mix cement. Check
that post is straight by using a two foot level. Allow cement to
harden before reattaching fence fabric.
Wooden Fence Posts
Replace damaged or missing wood fence posts:

• Measure the dimensions of the fence posts that need
replacing. Be sure to not whether the replacement post is an
end or corner post or a line post. End/corner posts are often
larger than line posts.
• Report to the Principal the number, size and type of

replacement posts needed. If the needed parts are stocked at
the schoolyard, replace as soon as possible. Otherwise,
replace broken or missing posts after they are ordered and
delivered.
Step 3 Are posts tight and secure in their footings?
If the pole is loose in the footing:

i Mix ready-mix cement with water as directed on the bag.
i Pour cement mixture into area where the pole fits into the
existing footing. Slightly mound the concrete up around the
pole to give it further reinforcement.
177
Fences
i Allow the cement to dry and then re-assemble

the other fence pieces to the post.
i Be sure to clean tools used for quick dry cement immediately.
STABILIZE LOOSE POSTS

BY ADDING ADDITIONAL NEW CEMENT
QUICK DRY CEMENT
AROUND THE FOOTING ~~
THIS IS OFTEN JUST A
TEMPORARY SOLUTION
If the footing is OLD FOOTING

cracked or damaged:
90. Remove the old cement footing. If the post is not damaged,
use a sledge hammer to knock the concrete off the post so it
can be reused. Dig a hole that is 24"-30" deep and 12" wide.
91. Mix ready-mix concrete with water as directed on the bag and
pour the mixture into the hole.
92. Set the post in the hole. Use a two foot level to make sure the
post is set straight.
93. Allow the cement to dry and then reassemble the other fence
pieces to the post.
Step 4 Are all fence parts present and in good condition?
Repair small damages to the fence as soon after the inspection as possible.
A fence kept in good repair is less likely to be vandalized.
Chainlink Fencing
• Sagging chainlink
fabric can be
resecured to toprails
with tie wire and to posts with tension clips.
• Small holes can be repaired by wiring the tear together using

lacing wire.
178
Fences
RESECURE SAGGING FENCE FABRIC TO TOP RAIL

OR TO LINE POSTS USING TIE WIRE.
REPAIR SMALL HOLES

WITH LACING WIRE.
• Replace badly damaged chainlink fabric.
a. Hang new or recycled fence fabric loosely on the post

and toprail.
b. Securely attach one end of the fabric to one end post.

Use the correct size tension bar and tension bar clamps.
c. Attach a fence stretcher to the opposite end post and to

a temporary tension bar, about 4" from the loose end of
the fence fabric.
d. Stretch the fabric until it is tight. Be sure not to tighten

the fabric too much causing it to bend.
e. Cut the fabric with wire cutters 1 diamond from the end
post.
TENSION BAR
TENSION CLIP
f. Attach it securely to the post with a tension band and

tension clips.
179
Fences
Wooden Fencing
• Replace any broken or missing wooden railings or pickets.
• Keep extra pressure treated wooden parts in stock.
REPAIRING BROKEN
FENCING IS OFTEN
EASY IF REPLACEMENT
PARTS ARE READILY
AVAILABLE.
Iron/Metal Fencing
• Replace any
broken or missing sections of fencing.
• Make sure extra sections are kept in stock or are easily

ordered.
Step 5 Are fence surfaces in good condition?
Chainlink Fencing
• Chainlink
fabric is made of galvanized metal and should not require
painting.
Wooden Fencing
• Sand peeling
or splintering wood with sand paper (a power sander can be
used if available). Remove rough surfaces and peeling paint or
stain.
• All rotting pieces should be replaced. Save time by painting

replacement pieces before installing them on the fence.
180
Fences
• Wipe surfaces with a clean cloth before

applying paint or stain.
• Be sure to use the same paint or stain previously used on the

fence unless the whole fence is going to be repainted. If the
whole fence is to be repainted, check that the product chosen
is compatible with existing paint or stain on the fence. For
instance, you cannot apply stain over a surface that was
previously painted. If there are any questions, contact a local
reputable paint store.
• Pressure treated wood needs to season at least 6 months

before it is stained or painted.
Iron/Metal Fencing
• Sand peeling
or rusting areas with a wire brush. Be sure to remove all rust
and smooth rough areas.
• Wipe surface with clean cloth.
• With a paint brush, apply a primer that prevents rust. Allow to

dry and then paint with an oil base glossy paint. One coat of
paint should be enough.
• Rope off area until paint dries.
......................................................
For more information about fence maintenance see:
Fences, Decks and Other Backyard Projects, Dan Ramsey, Tab Books Inc., Blue Ridge
Summit, PA 1988
How to Design and Build Fences and Gates, Ortho Books, by Diane Snow (1985).
181
Benches
Why maintain benches?
Benches in good repair make people feel their environment is well ordered and
sociable. Like fences, benches are a very visible symbol of the overall condition of
a schoolyard. Damaged benches encourage vandalism elsewhere.
i Keep extra bench slats and bolts in stock so that repairs can be made quickly and
easily.
i Immediately report to the Principal any badly damaged benches. If these benches
cannot be repaired they should be removed as soon as possible.
i Benches that are regularly painted and maintained are vandalized less often than
benches that receive little if any maintenance.
i Conduct a formal bench inspection three times a year, in March, July and
November.
• Are any benches hazardous?
• Are footings stable and tight?
• Are all bench parts present and in good condition?
• Are all bolts and fasteners tight and secure?
• Are bench surfaces in good condition (not rusty, splintered, chipped, graffiti-
covered, peeling or worn)?
182
Benches
Equipment
Power Sander
Wrench
Socket
Wrench
Paintbrush
Two Foot Level

Schedule
Inspect benches three times a year:
• Make small repairs immediately.

• If needed, schedule larger bench maintenance tasks such as painting or
replacement.
• Report to the Principal benches damaged beyond repair.
183
Benches
How to inspect benches
Step 1 Are any benches hazardous?
• Report to the Principal any benches that are hazardous or that

are so severely broken that they should be removed.
• Remove the benches as instructed by the Principal.
Step 2 Are all bench parts present and in good condition? If there are broken
or missing pieces to the bench, then:
• Replace as many broken or missing pieces as you can with

extra bench parts in stock.
• Report to the Principal additional pieces that need replacing but

that are not available in storage. Be very specific about the
type and number of bench pieces that need to be replaced so
management can easily and quickly place a correct order.
184
Benches
Step 3 Are all bolts and fasteners on the bench tight and secure?
Carry a socket wrench or other appropriate tools with you when inspecting
the benches so you can easily and efficiently tighten loose bolts, screws, and
fasteners.
Step 4 Are footings stable and tight? If you can wiggle, move or shift the
bench, then:
• Check that the bolts that secure the bench to the footing or to
the pavement are tight. Tighten them if loose.
• Check whether the footing is loose. Sometimes erosion, or

even just frequent use, wears away soil around footings and
the footing and bench become unstable. In this case:
a. Remove any loose soil or stones around the footing.
b. Make sure the bench is level. Do not rely on your

eye—use a level.
c. Mix quick dry cement with water as indicated on

package.
d. Carefully pour cement mixture into area at the bottom of

the base where the bench is loose.
e. Again, make sure the bench is level and stable.
f. Allow the cement to dry.
185
Benches
Step 5 Are bench surfaces in good condition? Is there any

splintered wood, or chipped, peeling, or worn paint? If
so, then:
• Sand rusting, peeling, or splintered surfaces. A wire brush

should be used on metal surfaces. Make sure to remove all
rust and smooth all rough areas. Sandpaper or power sander
should be used on wooden surfaces. Sand enough to
remove gloss from the old paint; it is not necessary to
completely remove the paint. Any splintered areas should be
sanded smooth.
• Severely rotted or splintered surfaces that cannot be sanded

smooth should be replaced.
• Wipe surface clean.
• For metal benches use a paint brush to apply a primer that

prevents rust. Allow to dry and then paint with an oil base
glossy paint. One coat should be enough.
• For painted wooden benches use a paint brush to apply a

primer to any bare or unpainted areas. Allow to dry and paint
with Rustoleum’s “Woodsaver,” an oil based semi-gloss paint
with teflon in it. Wooden benches that have been painted
cannot then be stained, they must continue to be painted.
• For stained wooden benches, sand any rough spots and

apply stain every couple of years to preserve the wood.
............
For more information about bench maintenance:
Contact manufacturer of bench type on specific instructions on repair and maintenance.
186
APPENDIX
In the Appendix you will find:
Plant Food Elements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
Good Plants for Schoolyards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192

Deciduous Trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
Evergreen Trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
Deciduous Shrubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
Evergreen Shrubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
Perennials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
Poisonous Plants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
Problem Plants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
For Further Reading . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
Proper Tree Planting Techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
Recommendations for Landscape Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
How to Calculate Bulk Landscape Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204206
BSI Shared Maintenance Protocol Information & Forms . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
BSI Maintenance Checklist and Needs Assessment Form . . . . . . . . . . . 217
Community Service Project Template . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
Dictionary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
187
188
APPENDIX
Plant Food Elements
There are sixteen recognized plant food elements which are considered essential to plant
growth, including the primary plant food elements—nitrogen, phosphorus and potash.
Some crops won’t grow at all on some soils without the use of fertilizer, and a drastic
deficiency of only one plant food element can prevent growth or reduce growth to
unsatisfactory levels. [When you purchase a bag of fertilizer, the numbers are always in
the following order: first number = Nitrogen (N), second number = Phosphorus (P), third
number = Potassium (K)]
FUNCTIONS OF PLANT FOOD ELEMENTS

PRIMARY PLANT FOOD ELEMENTS
NITROGEN
Gives dark green color to plant.

Promotes increased leaf, stem, and root growth.
Improves quality of leaf.
Increases protein content of plant.
Feeds soil microorganisms during their decomposition of low-nitrogen organic
materials.
PHOSPHORUS
Stimulates early root formation and growth.

Gives rapid and vigorous start to plants.
Hastens maturity of crops.
Stimulates blooming and aids in seed formation.
Gives winter-hardiness to fall seedlings.
POTASSIUM (POTASH)
Imparts increased vigor and disease resistance to plants.

Essential to the formation and transfer of starches, sugars and oils.
Aids in protein production in plants.
Improves quality of plants.
Helps development of root system.
Helps regulate cell water content in plant.
189
APPENDIX
Plant Food Elements
SECONDARY PLANT FOOD ELEMENTS
CALCIUM
Promotes early root formation and growth.

Improves general plant vigor.
Influences intake of other plant nutrients.
Neutralizes waste produced in the plant.
MAGNESIUM
Is an essential part of chlorophyll.

Necessary for the formation of sugar.
Regulates uptake of other plant foods.
Acts as carrier of phosphorus in the plant.
Promotes formation of oils and fats.
Plays a part in the translocation of starch.
SULFUR
Gives increased root growth.

Helps maintain dark green color.
Stimulates seed production.
Encourages more vigorous plant growth.
MINOR OR TRACE ELEMENTS
BORON
Increases yield or improves quality.

Associated with calcium utilization within the plant.
Needed particularly on muck soils.
COPPER
Stimulates growth, aces as a catalyst or a component of enzyme systems.

Helps to prevent chlorosis, the term used to describe the condition when green
plants turn white or yellow due to lack of normal amounts of chlorophyll.
190
APPENDIX
Plant Food Elements
IRON
Acts as an oxygen carrier.

Is required for the formation of chlorophyll.
Aids in preventing chlorosis.
MANGANESE
Increases availability of calcium, magnesium and phosphorus.

Promotes soil oxidation.
Aids in the synthesis of chlorophyll and functions in photosynthesis.
MOLYBDENUM
Is involved in the reduction of nitrates during the formation of amino acids and
proteins.
ZINC
Necessary for normal chlorophyll production and growth.
191
APPENDIX
Good Plants for Schoolyards
GOOD PLANTS FOR SCHOOLYARDS

This is an abbreviated list of plants often chosen for their resistance to disease and
their ability to withstand many of the conditions found in schoolyards.
If your Friends group is selecting new, additional plant material, see the books
listed in this Appendix, page 196 (RESOURCES: “For Further Reading”) Look for
these books at the Boston Public Library.
Select plants with tolerance for the growing conditions they will be in, seasonal interest,
proper size at maturity, are resistant to diseases and other problems, have usefulness for
curriculum or play, etc. NOTE: any plants with fruit should be planted at the
discretion of the planting committee/Friends group.
KEY: ~ = flowering tree or shrub

\ = produces fruit or berries
\\ = fruit or berries are edible
ÈÈ = native plant species
192
APPENDIX
DECIDUOUS TREES
Acer griseum Paperbark maple

Acer rubrum Red maple ÈÈ
Acer saccharum Sugar maple ÈÈ
Cercis canadensis Eastern redbud (butterfly food or habitat)
Cornus Kousa ~ Korean dogwood
Crataegus phaenopyrum (cordata) ~ Hawthorn
Fraxinus pennsylvanica Green Ash “Marshall’s Seedless’ (from
ÈÈ)
Ginkgo biloba Ginkgo [purchase male trees only]
Gleditsia triacanthos var. Inermis Honeylocust ÈÈ
Liriodendron tuliperfera Tulip poplar ÈÈ
Malus species Apple trees \\
~ Apple trees
Pyrus species Pear trees \\
~ Pear trees
Prunus species Cherry, Plum and Peach trees\\
~ Cherry, Plum and Peach trees
Quercus palustris Pin Oak ÈÈ
Sewartia pseudocamillia Japanese stewartia
Syringa reticulata Japanese lilac tree
Tilia cordata Littleleaf Linden
Tilia tomentosa Silver Linden
EVERGREEN TREES
Pinus nigra Austrian black pine

Pinus strobus Eastern White Pine ÈÈ
Picea abies Blue Spruce
Picea pungens Colorado Spruce ÈÈ
Abies concolor White fir, Colorado fir ÈÈ
193
APPENDIX
DECIDUOUS SHRUBS
Abelia x grandiflora ~ Glossy Abelia

Amelanchier canadensis ~ Shadblow serviceberry \ ÈÈ
Amelanchier arborea ~ Saskatoon Serviceberry ÈÈ
Betula nigra River birch ÈÈ
Betula papyrifera Paper birch
Buddleia davidii ~ Butterfly bush
Cornus mas ~ Cornelian cherry \
Forsythia x intermedia ~ Forsythia
Fothergilla gardenii ~ Forthergilla, dwarf ÈÈ
Myrica pensylvanica Bayberry* ÈÈ
Potentilla fruuitcosa ‘Goldfinger’ ~ Potentilla (Bush Cinquefoil)
Rhus typhina Sumac, staghorn ÈÈ (butterfly food or
habitat)
Rosa floribunda ‘Betty Prior’ ~ Rose, Betty Prior
Spiraea bumalda ‘Anthony Waterer’ ~ Spirea
Spiraea nipponica ‘Snowmound’ ~ Spirea
Syringa microphylla ~ Lilac, Littleleaf
Vaccinium corymbosum ~ Blueberry, highbush \\
Viburnum x burkwoodi ~ Viburnum
Viburnum plicatum
tomentosum ‘Shasta’ ~ Viburnum
Viburnum trilobum compactum ~ Cranberry, American ÈÈ (dwarf varieties
available)
EVERGREEN SHRUBS
Chamaecypparis obtusa ‘Gracilis’ Falsecypress, Hinoki

Ilex x meservaea “Blue Prince’ Holly, blue prince
Ilex glabra ‘compacta’ Inkberry, dwarf
Ilex glabra Inkberry ÈÈ
Ilex verticillata Winterberry ÈÈ
Juniperus chinensis
pfitzeriana compacta Juniper, compact
Juniperus chinensis
sargenti ‘Glauca’ Juniper
Juniperus virginiana Cedar, eastern red \
Pinus mugo ‘mugo’ Mugo Pine
Vaccinium macroparpon American Cranberry ÈÈ
194
APPENDIX
PERENNIALS
Achillea varieties Yarrow (butterfly food or habitat)

Allium giganteum Allium, giant (butterfly food or habitat)
Allium schoenoprasum Chive \\(butterfly food or habitat)
Asclepias tuberosa Butterfly weed ÈÈ(butterfly food or habitat)
Aster novae-angliae Aster, New England ÈÈ(butterfly food or
habitat)
Daucus carota Queen Anne’s lace (butterfly food or habitat)
Eupatorium maculatum Joe-pye weed ÈÈ(butterfly food or habitat)
Geranium richardsonii Cranesbill Geranium (butterfly food or habitat)
Hemerocalis species Daylilies (butterfly food or habitat)
Monarda didyma Balm, bee (butterfly food or habitat)
Melissa officianalis Balm, lemon \\
Rudbeckia hirta Black-Eyed Susan (butterfly food or habitat)
Sedum spectabile Stonecrop (butterfly food or habitat)
Stachys byzantina Lamb’s ear
ORNAMENTAL GRASSES
(clump grass varieties)
Andropogon gerardii Big Bluestem ÈÈ

Calamagrosti x acutiflora ‘Stricta’ Grass, feather reed
Festuca cinerea Blue Fescue
Helichtotriton sempervirens Blue Oat Grass
Schizachyrium scoparium Little bluestem ÈÈ [NOTE: can spread
through re-seeding]
195
APPENDIX
Poisonous Plants
POISONOUS PLANTS
NOTE: This is a partial listing of poisonous plants.

When in doubt contact the local Poison Information Center: 800-682-9211
Plant Toxic part ;;
GARDEN PLANTS:
Lily family bulbs
Delphinium young plants, seeds
Larkspur young plants, seeds
Monkshood fleshy roots
Lily-of-the-Valley leaves, flowers
Iris Underground stems
Foxglove leaves
Bleeding Heart foliage, roots
Rhubarb leaf blade
Morning glory seeds
Mushrooms all parts
ORNAMENTAL PLANTS:
Daphne berries
Wisteria seeds, pods
Golden Chain seed capsules
Laurels, Rhododendrons, Azaleas all parts
Jasmine berries
Lantana Camara (Red Sage) green berries
Yew berries, foliage
Cherries, wild and cultivated twigs, foliage
Oaks Foliage, acorns
Elderberry All parts, especially roots
Black Locust Bark, sprouts, foliage
OTHER PLANTS:
Buttercups All parts
Mayapple Apple, foliage, roots
Nightshade All parts, especially unripened berry
Poison Hemlock All parts (resembles wild carrot)
Jimson Weed All parts
196
APPENDIX
Problem Plants
PROBLEM PLANTS
½¼ (invasive, aggressive)
Keep in mind: Plants that may not be problems (invasive, aggressive) on your
site may “escape” to become problems at another site:
TREES:
Norway Maple Acer platanoides
Tree of Heaven Ailanthus altissima
Paper Mulberry Broussonetia papyrifera
Mulberry Morus alba
White Poplar Populus alba
SHRUBS:
Japanese Barberry Berberis thunbergii
Russian Olive Elaeagnus angustifolia
Autumn Olive Elaeagnus umbellata
Winged Euonymus (Burning Bush) Euonymus alatus
Wintercreeper (climbing Euonymus) Euonymus fortuei
English Holly Ilex aquifolium
Privet (some) Ligustrum vulgare, L. sinense, L.
japonicum
Honeysuckle (some) Lonicera maackii
Common Buckthorn (European) Rhamnus cathartica
Smooth (Glossy) Buckthorn Rhamnus frangula
Multiflora Rose Rosa multiflora
Japanese Spiraea Spiraea japonica
Japanese Yew Taxus cuspidata
Guelder Rose Viburnum opulus var. opulus
ANNUALS & PERENNIALS:

Crown Vetch Coronilla varia
Japanese Knotweed Fallopia japonica (Polygonum cuspidatum)
Dame’s Rocket Hesperis matronalis
Purple Loosestrife Lythrum salicaria
Sulfur Cinquefoil Potentilla recta
Bitter Nightshade Solanum dulcamara
Vinca, Periwinkle, Myrtle Vinca minor, V. major
VINES:
Porcelain Berry Ampelopsis brevipedunculata
Bittersweet (Oriental or Asiatic) Celastrus orbiculatus
Honeysuckle (Japanese or Hall’s) Lonicera japonica
Poison Ivy Rhus radicans
197
APPENDIX
For Further Reading
FOR FURTHER READING
Going Native (Biodiversity in Our Own Backyards), Brooklyn Botanic Garden

Describes how our urban gardens can contribute to the restoration of the original, diverse habitat of
the region. Gives examples of gardens for various regions of the country.
Invasive Plants (Weeds of the Global Garden), Brooklyn Botanic Garden
Defines the problem. Gives a listing of known invasive plants, the problems they cause, and how
to control them.
Perennial All Stars, Jeff Cox
Good color pictures of “tried and true” perennials. Gives descriptions of growing needs.
Right Plant, Right Place, Nicola Ferguson, Brooklyn Botanic Gardens
Lists plants by genus. Groups plants by different growing conditions, as acid soils, dry shade,
hedging plants, etc. Excellent color photos of each plant.
The Naturalist’s Garden, Ruth Shaw Ernst, The Globe Pequot Press
How to use plants to attract wildlife to your garden. Lists resources for seeds, plants, biocontrols,
etc.
The Perennial Garden, Jeff & Marilyn Cox, Rodale Press
Practical discussion of design elements. Guide to plants and required growing conditions.
The New England Wildflower Society guide to growing and propagating wildflowers of
the United States and Canada, William Cullina
Outstanding introduction to growing native plants. Some pictures, complete descriptions of plants
and growing conditions. Lists sources of native plant species.
The Ultimate American Gardening Book, R. G. Turner, Jr (chief consultant)
Exceptional color photos of plants. Describes size and other characteristics of each plant. Describes
growing conditions needed.
Tough Plants for Tough Places, Peter Loewer, Rodale Press
Lists plants by genus and common name. Groups plants by garden styles and categories of plants,
as flowering plants, bulbs, ferns, etc.
Wyman’s Gardening Encyclopedia, Donald Wyman
Indispensable guide. Can find most plants by common name or genus name. List common
species/varieties of trees, shrubs, vines, perennials, annuals and their growing needs.
198
APPENDIX
Proper Tree Planting Techniques
Place the root ball in the soil on firm ground.

(Remember, the plant will sink slightly as it settles.
Proper planting of trees is crucial to ensure a Therefore, it is better to be slightly higher than lower).
healthy, long lived tree. Tree roots need oxygen and When “facing” a plant, lift the plant ball and turn. If
water in order to survive and establish themselves. turned with the weight on the root system, circling
If trees are planted too deep, the roots will not get roots will be created.
the amount of oxygen needed for proper gas
exchange which is necessary for root growth. No soil amendments such as peat moss or sand
Eventually, the roots suffocate and die. Root death should be added to the soil. This will create a drastic
results in branch dieback (beginning at the top of the change between the root ball and surrounding soil,
tree crown) and the eventual death of the tree. resulting in a difficult root establishment. A soil test
should be conducted prior to planting in order to
To plant a tree, first choose the right tree for the right determine if the soil requires nutrient supplements. If
location. In the past, recommendations were given so, a superphosphate
to dig the planting hole two to three times the depth (0-20-0) fertilizer may be incorporated into the existing
of the root ball. This advice has been changed soil mix that will fill in the planting hole; this will
because the tree roots grow within the top 18 inches enhance root development.
of soil and do not grow straight down. Digging the
hole deeper will not aid in root growth but instead Once the plant is in place at the desired depth, backfill
may cause the tree to settle too deep into the the hole with soil until it is half full. Fill the hole with
ground, resulting in decline and eventual death. water and let it drain. This will water the tree and help
Instead, dig the hole two to three times as wide as disperse air pockets which could be detrimental to the
the diameter of the root ball. This area is where root health of the tree. (If the water does not drain in a few
growth occurs and will aid in the establishment of hours, there may be a drainage problem. In this case,
roots in the existing soil of the planting site. the area may need extensive amending or another
site should be found). When the water drains, fill the
Plants may be bought in containers or balled and remainder of the hole with soil and create a berm only
burlapped. Remember to remove the container, any around the area of the root ball. This will help to hold
wire baskets, twine, etc. from around the root ball water for the rootball when watering in the future.
and trunk. Failure to do this may result in girdling of (For the first year or two, roots will get moisture from
the trunk by the root system, which could lead to the original rootball. Surrounding soil (outside the
decline and death. Carefully scrape any excess soil rootball) could be moist, but if the root ball is not, the
from around the stem of the plant until the root flare plant will suffer from lack of water.) Soak the hole
is found. This flare between the stem and root area with water again and let it drain; repeat until the root
is the area that should be level with the ground ball and surrounding soil are level with the existing
surface. A shovel handle may be used to help judge soil level. Add a 2 to 4 inch layer of mulch, either
the correct depth of the plant. organic (wood chips, bark mulch, etc.) or inorganic
(gravel, peastone, etc.). Mulch will help to regulate
the soil temperature and retain the moisture
necessary for root growth.
Melissa Castonguay and H. Dennis P. Ryan, III

UMass Department of Forestry and Wildlife
Management
199
APPENDIX
Proper Tree Planting Techniques
200
APPENDIX
Recommendations for Landscape Equipment
The following list of recommended landscape equipment has been compiled specifically
for schoolyards that do not have professional landscape experts on staff.
For Public Schools Facilities Management:
Heavy equipment (core aerators, riding mowers and spreaders, front end
loaders, backhoes, and such) represent substantial investments of capital
funds and require specific storage areas and specialized maintenance skills.
These are important decisions about which general recommendations cannot
be made.
201
APPENDIX
for School Departments
Bow Saws
• 21" steel frame model with replaceable blades
Brooms, Push
• Heavy duty street broom
• Natural bass fiber with end flair
• 16" wide and 5½” bristles
Spades
• Work is generally faster with a short handled spade
Edgers, Hand
• Forged head-handle connection
Edgers, Power
• Good for large schoolyards with many shrub beds that need to be edged
or schoolyards with cement sidewalks
• Should be gas powered
• Keep surplus of metal blades (these are expensive and must be budgeted
for accordingly)
Flat Shovels
• General purpose long handled steel flat shovel
Gloves
• Heavy duty leather gloves
Hedge Sheers
• Should be used only on hedges. We cannot stress enough that all other
shrubs should be pruned only with hand pruners.
• Shock guards on the slightly more expensive models increase the life of
the sheers and saves on the workers’ knuckles and overall pruning time
Hoses
• Do not buy plastic hoses. They become brittle and rigid after sitting in the
sun
• 50' lengths are recommended for ease and efficiency
• A 30 gallon trash can on wheel casters is useful for coiling and
transporting long lengths of hose
202
APPENDIX
Lawn Mowers, Riding and Tractor Drawn

• Appropriate for larger schoolyards with lawn areas
Lawn Mowers, Push

• gas powered
• 5 gallon gas cans should be marked “unleaded gas” and kept filled for
refueling the mowers
-OR-
• Manual push mowers
• Grass clippings do not need to be bagged. This will save a great deal of
time for the grass cutters. Lawns should then be dethatched or core
aerated every 2 years.
Mulch Forks
• Sometimes referred to as a “scoop” fork
• Model should have approximately 10 tines, 14" - 16" long
Pruners, Hand
• Quality by-pass pruners
• Shears
• Loppers
Pole Pruner Sets

• Set should include 3 wooden extension poles and 2 separate heads, one
for lopping and one saw for pruning
Rakes, Iron
• Single unit welded construction
• Steel bowed as opposed to level headed
Rakes, Metal Leaf

• “Spring Back” rake
Spreaders, Drop
• Can be used to apply powdered lime or calcium chloride on the sidewalks
in the winter
• MUST be hosed down inside and out to thoroughly clean after each use
203
APPENDIX
Spreaders, Rotary
• Should be used to put down fertilizer and granulated or pellitized lime
•”Cyclone” spreaders are most recommended
• Spreaders MUST be hosed down to thoroughly clean inside and out
after each use
• Spreaders that are not working properly should never be used. The rate
that fertilizers are applied is very specific; the setting needs to be exact.
Sprinklers
• The fewer number of moving parts the sprinkler has, the better
• Spike type impulse sprinklers and soaker hoses are recommended
String Trimmers
• Should be gas powered
• Straight shaft models do not overheat and are thus better for large
schoolyards
• Synthetic 2 cycle oils mixed with gas have proven to reduce overheating
in all 2 cycle engines such as these
• Smaller 1 - 2 gallon gas cans should be marked “mixed gas” and
directions given for the mixing ratio
Tilling Forks
• Sometimes referred to as a “spading” fork
• Select “D” - handled models
• Used to cultivate the soil
Wheelbarrows
• Request industrial weight models with pneumatic wheels
204
APPENDIX
Tools and equipment must be maintained
• Mower:
Check oil and gas before using
Change oil as directed in the owner’s manual
Keep blades sharp
Change air filter frequently. Know the owner’s manual
• String trimmer:
Check oil and gas before using
Change oil as directed in owner’s manual
Change string
• Pruning tools: Keep sharp and clean
ZZZZZ. Make all repairs on broken tools and equipment as soon as possible. If
equipment cannot be repaired by a custodian, facilities management should
be notified.
AAAAAA. Equipment that is beyond repair should be properly recorded in a tool

inventory as unusable as well as reported to facilities management
through the BSI Crew.
BBBBBB. Carefully store all equipment when not in use.
205
APPENDIX
How to Calculate Bulk Landscape Materials
How to figure cubic yards:
1 cubic yard = 27 cubic feet
cubic yard = LxWxD

cubic yard = 3x3x3
cubic yard = 27 cubic feet
To change cubic feet into cubic yards you divide the total cubic feet by 27.
81 ÷ 27 = 3 cubic yards
This formula is used to figure out any type of landscape material that is purchased in
volume, e.g., loam, mulch, wood chips, sand, stonedust, etc.
How to figure square feet:
square feet = LxW

square feet = 10'x4'
square feet = 40 square feet
This formula is used to compute the size of any given area to determine the quantity of
any material that you may need to cover an area.
Ex: number of brick for a walk or patio

amount of lime, fertilizer, or seed that you need for a lawn
amount of sod needed for a lawn
amount of plastic needed to cover a bed area before putting down mulch or
stone
Points of interest:
There are 500 square feet of sod on one pallet.
There are about 560 brick on a lift of brick.
50 lbs. of turf-o-ganic (10-6-4) will cover 2500 square feet.
206
APPENDIX
BSI Maintenance Protocol
SCHOOLYARD SHARED MAINTENANCE PROTOCOL
The Schoolyard Shared Maintenance Protocol defines the roles and responsibilities
for the management and maintenance of Boston Schoolyard Initiative Schoolyards.
Partners:
DND - (Department of Neighborhood Development) Provides a Project Manager for each

Schoolyard project. Provides Contract Management of the Landscape Architects and
Landscape Contractors. Manages the bid process and coordinates legal and safety
requirements for the Boston Schoolyard Initiative’s City capital funds. (Phase I) The
Landscape Architect’s contract specifies a masterplan, a set of schematics and
construction documents for the specific areas to be built with the City Capital funds. The
LA is to provide the Schoolyard group with a planting plan and a compilation of
maintenance instructions for the plant materials that have been installed in that specific
schoolyard.
The Landscape Architect’s role is to facilitate the Community Design process translating
the Schoolyard group’s vision into a master plan from which the areas to be built are
selected. A realistic design is developed for the available funds.
The Landscape Contractor’s contract includes supplying limited guarantees for plant
materials and instructions for play equipment with extra hardware and tools provided by
the manufacturer. The LC is required to keep within the accepted lowest bid and to
comply with all City, State and Federal safety requirements.
BPS - (Boston Public Schools) Planning and Engineering, Facilities Management,

Principal or designee, Custodians, Schoolyard Initiative Maintenance Crew, Teachers,
Students, Parents and School Site Council members.
Principal or designee: Oversees the Schoolyard, primary contact, Member of Schoolyard

Group and Friends.
Custodian: Daily maintenance, mowing, watering, trash. Could be member of Schoolyard

Group.
207
APPENDIX
Schoolyard Initiative Maintenance Crew: Seasonal maintenance, pruning, checking play

equipment, lawn mowing, minor repairs, trash and glass removal.
Teachers: Educational instruction. Optional: Member of Schoolyard Group
Students: Primary users educational and recreational. Middle and High Schools could
have representative on Schoolyard “Friends” Group.
Parents: A representative member of Schoolyard Group through Parent Site Council
Municipal Police: (on call) Optional member of Schoolyard Group
Facilities Management: Repairs to the building or schoolyard. Responsible for installing

lighting and water and delivery of limited supplies, tools and equipment. Coordinates
repairs (Work orders under $2,000; major renovations with outside contractors with public
bid process over $2,000).
Community Centers: Participants in planning and design and representation on “Friends”

group. Users on non-school hours. (Summer and evening programs.)
Boston Schoolyards Funders Collaborative: Funds the Organizing and Planning grant,
the gateway into the Schoolyard Initiative. Offers ongoing technical assistance to the
organizers and committee members of Schoolyard groups. Works closely with City
Partners to ensure clear communication, sustaining the investment of the Initiative and
compliance with the Task Force recommendations. The BSFC develops ongoing support
materials for organizers and Schoolyard groups’ resources and partnerships to meet the
goal of creating sustainable Schoolyards.
City Trust Office/Browne Fund: Replacement and repair of ornamental fencing, artwork
and landscape elements funded by Browne Fund for schoolyards built with additional
funds from the Trust. Monitors the maintenance contracts of Browne Fund-supported
schoolyards.
Parks: Groundskeepers for schoolyard ball fields. Offers limited resources of supplies and
materials such as flowering annuals, compost and woodchips for mulch.
208
APPENDIX
City Services: (All requests to City Departments will go through the proper channels with
the Principal as the primary conduit informed prior to any action by Schoolyard Group
members.)
Private Sector/School Business Partner: (Not all schools have Partners.) Potential
support on Community Service Days, donations of equipment, funding and other
resources including educational support of outdoor classrooms. Permission prior to any
contact with an existing School Business Partner for schoolyard support must come from
the Principal.
Community: Representation within Schoolyard Groups (“Friends of _____________

Schoolyard”) May be member or staff at the local CDC, Neighborhood Crime Watch, Main
Streets or other local community organization or agency.
Schoolyard Friends: A diverse group of individuals representing both the school and the
community, capable of managing and sustaining the schoolyard. This group serves as a
watchdog, develops a tradition of special events and fund-raisers, organizes community
Service Days, such as clean-ups and planting “workdays.” The Group should have clear
goals, be fiscally responsible and coordinate and participate in scheduled seasonal
schoolyard activities. Active membership from both the School and Parent Site Councils,
and a working committee structure with regular meetings.
209
APPENDIX
SHARED MAINTENANCE AGREEMENT
This agreement would be signed prior to the end of construction.

A separate maintenance agreement for each individual Schoolyard “Friends” Group would be drawn up to
clarify the ongoing tasks and responsibilities for their Schoolyard and would include a site-specific seasonal
maintenance plan.
AREA ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITY
Familiarity with Site BPS - Regular inspections

BPS - Major repairs
SI Maintenance Crew - Inspects, repairs and replaces
parts with checklist and manufacturer’s parts and
supplies
School - Inspects daily (teachers, custodian)
Principal - Oversight
Community - Neighborhood watch
Waste Management BPS Custodian - Daily

SI Maintenance Crew - Monthly
School - Educational programs (compost, recycling)
Students - Pick up of own trash (“LITTERacy” campaign)
Community - Watchdog, seasonal clean-ups
Hard Surfaces BPS - Maps and mural restoration

BPS - Custodian: sweep
SI Maintenance Crew - Clean
School - Educational programming
Community - Seasonal clean-ups
Grass Area BPS - Custodians mow & water as needed

SI Maintenance Crew - Large areas, mow, seasonal
fertilizing, aerating, re-seeding
Community - Monitors and informs
210
APPENDIX
BSI Shared Maintenance Agreement
Plant Materials BPS - Custodian: Weed, remove trash

SI Maintenance Crew - Seasonal pruning, weeding,
fertilizing, IPM and mulching
Teachers & Students - Educational programs, unique
features (wetlands, bird sanctuary, vegetable plots, etc.),
seasonal clean-ups, plantings and mulching
Disease and Pest Control SI Maintenance Crew - IPM

Pesticide application only by State certified individuals
Watering Custodian on weekly schedule (or irrigation)

Community during plantings
Friends develop summer plan
Plant & Landscape Materials BPS - Supply mulch, fibar, etc. and
Replacement replacement plants if available as needed
SI Maintenance Crew - Mulch and replace plants by
request only
Teachers & Students - Mulching, planting and watering
as Educational Activity
Parks - Plants & materials, if available
Community - Spread material and install plants
seasonally. Refer to planting plan.
Ornamental and
Artwork Elements Browne Fund (Schoolyard Group to comply with
Maintenance Agreement)
Repairs and replacement
Safety Community - Neighborhood Watch

Seasonal clean-ups
BPD Police - Regular surveillance
(Municipal for emergence calls after hours)
Principal - Report illegal activity or repairs
Custodian - Remove glass and dangerous objects
SI Maintenance Crew - Repair equipment
211
APPENDIX
Safety, cont. Remove glass and dangerous objects

Prune branches
BPS and DND - Building and lighting repairs and issue
contracts for specific work
DPW - Remove illegal dumping outside Schoolyard
property
Snow Removal BPS - Custodian shovel walkways & sand/salt

application on parking. Avoid salt on playgraphics.
Signage BPS - Replaces, repairs or amends text

Browne Fund - Repairs or replaces
Schoolyard Group - Monitors and maintains bulletin
board and plant I.D.
Students - Educational interpretive signs and unique
features
Graffiti Removal SI Maintenance Crew - removal from equipment only

Principal reports to Facilities Management
*Custodian paints over if on building*
Community - Neighborhood Watch, Community Service
Days
Browne Fund - Removal from ornamental & art elements
Reporting and Documentation A paper trail for all work orders, complaints and public
events and meetings
Community - Documents BSI events, and reports
problems to appropriate City Department after informing
Principal
SI Maintenance Crew - Checks in at school office for
duplicate Checklist and submits completed form for
signature. Retains one copy for Crew records, the other
into BSI Schoolyard 3-ring binder kept in the Office for
both communication and relevant information such as
names and numbers, planting plans, Maintenance
Agreement, community service groups, etc.
212
APPENDIX
Scheduling for Public Events: Principal or Designee with liaison from Schoolyard Group
creates schedule and use agreement with guidelines and requirements for seasonal
Community use in compliance with BPS regulations (no alcohol, etc.). This agreement
would define the scope of clean-up, recycling protocol and protection of plant materials.
The Community use schedule should be updated weekly in the BSI binder listing all formal
non-school hour use of the schoolyard such as events or summer programming, etc. All
events should be posted on the Bulletin Board in Public view.
The agreement should be separate from school use

regulations that are required for summer school, other
school-based BPS or Community Centers-sponsored
programs.
213
APPENDIX
Your Principal - he/she is responsible for supervising the custodian.

DND Project Manager - is responsible for contacting the General Contractor
within the first 60 to 90 days after the schoolyard project is completed.
Eli Semaan - Facilities Management Civil Engineer. Eli is responsible for
schoolyards, including landscape material and arranging for contractors to perform
emergency remedial work. He is located at the Campbell Resource Center, 635-
8300.
Khadijah Abdus-Sabur - Facilities Management Assistant Director, 635-9117.
Pat Brainard - Community Center and Schoolyards Liaison, 635-9136.
Tom Connelly - Head of Grounds Crew, 635-9162.
ROLE OF CUSTODIAN: In addition to the daily cleanup of the interior of the school
buildings, custodians are responsible for daily pick-up of trash and litter of the school
grounds. Each building has a daily work schedule, broken down by person if it is a
multiple-man building. (Smaller schools are manned by one custodian; larger schools
are maintained by several day and night custodians.) The custodian is also
responsible for the following:
• cutting grass
• removing snow on walkways
• daily litter and debris removal
• graffiti removal
• limited pruning and weeding
• watering
ROLE OF BS MAINTENANCE CREW:

i monthly visits
i play structure inspections
i raking of play structure’s safety surfacing
i emergency visits for removal/repair of elements of the play structure
i checking in with the Principal at each visit
ROLE OF COMMUNITY GROUPS:

i yearly clean-up days
i additional yearly plantings
i planning for events
i fund raising for additional site elements
i initiating crime watches or informal policing
214
APPENDIX
SECURITY ISSUES: During the school hours, only the school population should be on the
grounds. During after hours, the Municipal Police and/or Boston Police is responsible and
should be called for vandalism or other offenses. Also, the school grounds can be closed
at dark if signs are posted.
215
216
APPENDIX
BSI Maintenance Checklist & Needs Assessment Form
BOSTON SCHOOLYARD INITIATIVE MAINTENANCE

CHECKLIST AND NEEDS ASSESSMENT FORM
Process
Schoolyard Initiative Maintenance Crew goes into school office BEFORE completing tasks, picks up check list
form and any work orders or notes from the Principal, Friends or Custodian from inside the BSI 3-ring binder.
AFTER completing maintenance tasks, fills out the checklist form and has the original copy signed by the Principal
or designee, inserted into the Binder and keeps the duplicate copy for their records.
School Name:
Date:
BSI Crew:
Principal/Headmaster:
~ Front ~ Back ~ Left Side ~ Right Side
Maintenance Performed
Good Poor
General Cleanliness ~ ~________________________________________________________
Watering ~ ~________________________________________________________
Grass Areas ~ ~________________________________________________________
Walkways ~ ~________________________________________________________
Play Equipment ~ ~________________________________________________________
Rubber Play Surfaces ~ ~________________________________________________________
Fibar Play Surfaces ~ ~________________________________________________________
Benches ~ ~________________________________________________________
Lighting ~ ~________________________________________________________
Signage ~ ~________________________________________________________
Trees ~ ~________________________________________________________
Hard Surfaces ~ ~________________________________________________________
Hedges/Shrubs ~ ~________________________________________________________
Entrance Area ~ ~________________________________________________________
Drainage ~ ~________________________________________________________
Seating Areas ~ ~________________________________________________________
Vandalism/Other ~ ~________________________________________________________
217
APPENDIX
BSI Maintenance Checklist & Needs Assessment Form
Comments, needs
recommendations
Signed Date
218
APPENDIX
Community Service Project Template
A Successful Community Service Project Includes:
i Planning
i Clear goals
i Specific objectives
i Good match of project to volunteers (skills, hours of service, etc.)
i Site visit with captain, team leader
i On-site preparation
i Appropriate and sufficient tools, supplies and equipment
i Flexibility and sense of humor
i Leadership and organized support system
i Clear communication (ability to describe and direct tasks)
i Orientation of larger social issues to specific project
i Documentation (names of participants, photographs, etc.)
i Thank-you’s and acknowledgements
Preparation
i Contact volunteer. Investigate potential for community service project based on

realistic match of needs of both the host and volunteer group.
i Site visit with representative of group who will be the on-site liaison on day of
service. Set the date and scope of service.
i Exchange all data and information, e.g., number of volunteers, date and hours of
service, locations of bathrooms, phones, lunch, water, etc. May need hold harmless
if site not insured. Politely request donations from volunteer group such as gloves,
funding, plants, etc.
i Create workplan with supplies, tools and equipment for the number of volunteers
and the number of hours to be worked.
i Locate tools and supplies and set delivery location and contacts.
i Confirm trash pick-up or make private arrangements for organic waste recycling and
trash disposal. (City Services or private contractors)
i Mail scope of services and necessary information to volunteer contact to confirm by
phone one week prior to service date.
i Confirm Service Day support for project from host group to guide volunteers.
Specific tasks need guidance and coordination.
i Solicit refreshments/water.
i Create thank-you gift and acknowledgments for volunteers as closure.
219
APPENDIX
On-Site Preparation
• Gather “host support” one hour prior to volunteer arrival time.

• Orient hosts to specific tasks. Select or assign work areas.
• Create gathering area for orientation. Set up two tables, one with refreshments and
the other with sign-in and organizational information, a binder with photos,
newsletters, hand-outs, etc.
• Clear sign displaying goals, tasks/objectives and schedule for day.
• Make signs for work stations.
• Inventory tools and equipment.
• Lay out supplies for work areas.
• Wish each other a “great day.”
Orientation
• Greet volunteer group, create circle of ALL participants. (Circle is inclusive and
creates non-threatening opportunity to be heard.)
• Round robin introductions. (Brief name and where from)
• Warm-up exercise. Paired sharing or other simple game. Host instructs group,
“Turn to the person on left and introduce yourself. You have one minute each to say
what you hope to accomplish, learn, and get out of the day. Switch and listen to
partner. Thank you.”
• Brief description by volunteer group, who and why, example of other service
successes.
• Brief description from host representative on school mission with photo board or 3-
ring binder to illustrate key points, if possible.
• Individual user testimonial. “My schoolyard, my neighborhood, why we are grateful
for volunteer support.”
• Explanation of schedule for the day. Refer to large written-up schedule. (Be flexible
and maximize time BEFORE lunch!) Clarification on bathrooms, phones,
restaurants, emergency procedure.
220
APPENDIX
Work Orientation
• Tool safety instruction

• Description of tasks
• Locate work stations or areas and host contact or “Captain.” (Raise hands and give
names.)
• Assign or ask volunteers to choose an AM task and area and request they go with
host person and take tools and supplies (trash bags) with them.
Work Project
i Coordinator: Circulates throughout site. Acknowledges accomplishments, rotates

individuals where necessary to keep workload at maximum efficiency to ensure all
volunteers are and feel useful continuously. May need to circulate tools or
recommend a specific approach to task. Keeps track of time, safety, and level of
enjoyment.
i Volunteers: Choose tasks based on interest or skill. Should feel sense of
accomplishment at end of day. Should understand value of their participation in
making a difference on issue of quality of life/neighborhood open space
preservation, or education reform and have a direct experience with hosts, cross
cultural: urban/suburban, youth/elderly, to engage in positive change.
i Host Individuals: (Staff, neighbors, students, etc.): Welcome guests, ensure sense of
accomplishment, clarify organizational mission and goals, and set the tone, motivate
the group, and direct the work by example.
221
APPENDIX
Schedule for Workday (Flexible)

(A Typical 10 AM - 4 PM Service Day)
Preparation 9 - 10 AM
Welcome 10 - 10:15
Orientation 10:15 - 10:30
Tasks, Tools & Assignments 10:30 - 10:45
AM Service 11 - 1:30 PM
Lunch (preferably on-site) 1:30 - 2
PM Service 2 - 3:30
*Option to switch task, area, or group*
Clean-up/tool inventory 3:30 - 3:45
Acknowledgments, debrief,
closure 3:45 - 4
Follow-up
i Thank-you letters to volunteers and donors for supplies, etc.

i De-brief with host participants. (How did things go? What worked, what didn’t.)
Learn from experience and share the knowledge.
i Organize documentation.
i Plan for next Service Day.
222
DICTIONARY
Aerate See core aeration
Annual flowers Flowers commonly planted in flower beds. The plants

bloom for one season and all summer and die in the
winter. Annual flowers need to be planted each spring.
Acid soil Soil with a pH reading lower than 7.0. (See lime, see pH.)
Alkaline soil Soil with a pH reading greater than 7.0. (See sulphur, see pH.)
Arborist A trained and licensed tree care specialist.
Bare-root A small tree or shrub delivered without soil around its roots, as
opposed to a plant that is balled and burlapped. A bare root plant must
be planted immediately. Not recommended for use in schoolyards.
Balled & A small tree or shrub that is delivered with soil around its roots.
Burlapped The rootball is wrapped in burlap to protect the roots and to hold the
soil. Balled and burlapped plants can remain unplanted longer than
bare-root plants.
Belgian block A 4" x 4" x 4" granite block used to edge sidewalks or to pave surfaces.
Bulb A perennial plant whose fleshy food storage organ survives

underground after they bloom and their foliage dies back each year.
Tulips, daffodils and crocus are examples of flowers that grow from
bulbs. Most bulbs flower in the spring.
Cane The woody stem of a rose plant.
Collar The raised band of bark where a branch meets another branch or the
trunk.
Compaction The packing of soil, often due to excessive foot or car traffic, that
prevents water and air from getting to the roots of trees and plants.
Core aeration, cultivation, mulching and soil amendments such as peat
moss help reduce compaction.
Compost Humus made from decomposed (rotted) organic matter, usually dark
brown, porous, spongy and pleasantly earthy-smelling. Excellent way
to enrich soil and minimize land-fill waste.
223
DICTIONARY
Core aeration Removal of plugs of grass, thatch and compacted soil from the lawn by
using a core aerator. Aeration helps bring water and air to the roots
and supplements lawn fertilizers.
Corm A bulb-like plant. Crocus are an example.
Crotch The fork where two large branches meet.
Cubic foot A measurement of volume equal to an area one foot long by one foot
wide by one foot high.
Cultivar A particular form of a plant with its own special features. For instance,
there are several cultivars of the Red Maple tree. The ‘Armstrong’ and
the ‘October Glory’ are cultivars of the Red Maple species.
Cultivate To loosen the soil surface using a hoe, iron, rake or trowel. Cultivation
helps water to penetrate the soil.
Deadhead Removal of faded or dead annual flowers. Deadheading helps

produce more annual flowers throughout the season.
Deciduous Trees or shrubs that lose their leaves every fall and grow new leaves in
the spring.
Die-back The natural process where foliage of bulbs and perennials turns brown
after flowering. The foliage can be removed once it has turned brown
without damaging the plant. These plants will be dormant in the winter
but will flower again the following year.
Dormant Rest period when plants are not actively growing. Lawns often go
dormant during long hot dry periods in the summer and may look dead.
Deciduous trees and shrubs go dormant in the winter.
Drywell A pit dug 3' - 6' deep filled with stones and gravel. A gutter or pipe
leading from a building or from a poorly drained area leads into the pit,
which provides drainage.
Edge To create a neat, deep border several inches deep around plant and
flower beds, especially where they meet the lawn area.
224
DICTIONARY
Evergreen A plant that keeps its needles or leaves all year.
Erosion Process by which the ground surface is worn away. Erosion is usually
caused by either rain, water runoff or foot traffic.
Fertilizer Any substance used to enrich soil nutrients needed by plants. N-P-K
ratio is balance of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, which are
basic plant nutrients listed as numbers on front of all fertilizer bags.
Floribunda rose Hardy type of shrub rose that does not need to be staked or secured to
a trellis.
Foliage The leaves of a plant.
Footing The secured base where a pole or support is installed into the ground.
A footing is usually secured by pouring cement into the hole where a
pole is placed into the ground.
Foundation Shrubs planted around the base of a building.

planting
Formal pruning A labor intensive pruning style where shrubs are kept pruned into tight,
compact unnatural shapes.
Guying To steady a newly installed tree using a padded cable or wire placed
around the trunk and then attached to stakes. Guy wires must be
removed one year after planting. Guy wires left on tree trunks strangle
the young growing trees.
Head back To lightly prune a shrub to control its overall size and shape.
Hedge Shrubs planted close together to create a thick barrier. Hedges are
used to provide privacy, to screen unattractive views and to separate
spaces.
Informal pruning A labor-saving pruning approach that reinforces a plant’s natural

shape.
225
DICTIONARY
Lime A chemical substance containing calcium carbonate which is added to

acidic soil to make it more alkaline. Many plants, particularly grass, do
not grow well in acidic soils. Lawns, because of many decayed roots,
often become acidic. Lime corrects this condition and helps release
soil nutrients for the grass.
Massing Planting many of a single variety of shrub or flower in a bed. Massed

shrubs create a full, unified impression as opposed to singly planted
shrubs, which require more maintenance and are less visually
effective.
Mono-culture The use of only one type of plant or tree. The problem of using only
one type of tree or shrub throughout extensive areas is that if a
disease breaks out to which that type of plant is particularly
susceptible, all the plants in a schoolyard are likely to become
diseased and die.
Mulch A covering of pine bark, woven landscape fabric or other material or

peat moss spread on the ground around plants used to reduce
evaporation and help control weeds. Organic mulches help to enrich
the soil.
N-P-K Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium. Soil nutrients needed by most

plants.
Native plants Discussed fully as sustainable plants found naturally in localized areas.
Peat moss An organic soil amendment derived from peat bogs that is used to
improve soil texture. Peat moss helps sandy soils retain water while
helping clay soils to drain better. Peat moss can also be used to raise
the acidity of soil. Peat moss is commonly used as a soil amendment
when planting trees, shrubs and flowers.
Perennials Flowering plants that die back to the ground in winter but then come
back again year after year in the spring.
226
DICTIONARY
pH A measure used to register the acidity or alkalinity of soil. Different

plants prefer different pH levels. Soils with a pH of 7 are “neutral,”
those below a pH of 7 are “acidic” and those above a pH of 7 are
“alkaline.” Most garden plants grow well at a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. Lawns
like a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. The pH of a soil can be changed. Add lime if
the soil is too acidic. Add sulphur if the soil is too alkaline.
Post-emergent Weed killer that is applied after a weed has appeared.

weed killer
Pre-emergent Weed killer that is applied before problem weeds begin to

weed killer appear. May require license to use and is toxic.
PVC pipe A light, vinyl pipe, available at hardware suppliers, often used to divert
water from a downspout to an underground drainage system.
Root Flare Also called Crown or Taper. Where the above-ground stem of a tree
or shrub meets the roots. Avoid covering tree and shrub root flares
during planting or mulching.
Root suckers Growth that sprouts from the roots of a tree or shrub. Root suckers are
unwanted growth that should be regularly pruned (removed) because
they are unattractive and they use food and water that could otherwise
be going to the rest of the plant. Some trees like crabapples naturally
tend to grow rootsuckers. Other trees develop them when tree trunks
are damaged by mowers or cars.
Rhizome An underground stem that is often enlarged for food storage, very
similar in concept to a bulb. Iris roots are rhizomes.
Saucer A shallow basin built around the bases of trees and shrubs. The
purpose of the saucer is to give water a chance to soak into the soil
around plants, especially immediately after planting.
Seedling A very young plant that must be handled very gently to prevent
damage.
Shrub A woody perennial plant, smaller than a tree, usually having numerous
stems branching from the ground.
227
DICTIONARY
Sod Rolls of mature matted grass plants laid down like carpet over properly
prepared soil to provide an “instant” lawn. Once installed, the grass
roots will grow into the prepared soil.
Soil amendment Organic matter added to soil to improve its texture or fertility. (See
peat moss.)
Soil compaction See compaction.
Specifications Specific guidelines for plant and equipment installation. For example,
how far apart each plant should be, the required height of fencing, etc.
Spot seed The process of repairing small to moderate sized bare spots or
damaged areas in a lawn by properly preparing the soil, spreading
grass seed and watering.
Square foot A unit of measurement equal to a flat square measuring one foot on
each side. To calculate square feet, multiply the length of an area by
the width of an area. The total equals the square footage.
String trim To use a trimmer along buildings, walls and fence edges to cut grass
that cannot be cut by a lawn mower.
Sulphur A soil amendment used to lower the pH of soil. Sulphur should be

added to soils that are too alkaline.
Superphospate A soil amendment commonly used when planting trees, shrubs,

flowers and lawns. Supersphosphate is a nutrient that helps plants
build strong roots.
Tamp To firmly press soil down with either a person’s foot or with a tamper, a
heavy iron tool with a flat surface attached to a long handle.
Thatch Accumulated lawn clippings and other decaying organic matter at the
base of grass plants. Accumulated thatch prevents water, air and
fertilizers from reaching the grass roots. Excessive thatch may also
invite pests.
228
DICTIONARY
Water sprouts Vigorous stems that grow straight up parallel to the main tree trunk or
bolt upright on a shrub with arching branches. Water sprouts should
be pruned because they give the plant an ugly form and sap energy
from the principal branches.
Weeding To pull out weeds (unwanted plants) from below the ground level so as
to remove the roots as well as the foliage of the weeds.
229
NOTES:
230

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Boston Natural Areas Network

Quick Reference Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Routine Landscape Maintenance Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Developing a Watering Plan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

When Should It Be Done? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Planting New Lawns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

Tree & Shrub Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79

Pruning Shrubs and Hedges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89

Edging and Mulching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99

Watering and Fertilizing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107

New Trees and Shrubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111

Flower Power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121

Recommended flowers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125

Bed preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141

Play Areas, Fences & Benches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163

Plant Food Elements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189

Good Plants Recommended For Schoolyards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192

Proper Tree Planting Techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199

Recommendations for Landscape Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201

How to Calculate Bulk Landscape Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206

BSI Shared Maintenance, Protocol & Agreements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207

BSI Maintenance Checklist and Needs Assessment Form . . . . . . . . . 217

Community Service Project Template . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219

What is the Boston Schoolyard Initiative?

The Boston Schoolyard Initiative (BSI) is a model for promoting community-driven

Maintenance of the Physical Site

Baseline Maintenance refers to basic issues of safety, cleanliness and

Community-based Maintenance refers to the additional improvements that Friends

The Five Basic Requirements of all Landscape Plants

It is very important that all people responsible for maintaining schoolyard

Everyone can be a problem-solver if he or she understands the problem.

In this section you will find:

Routine Landscape Maintenance Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Developing a Water Plan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

When Should It Be Done? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

• Spot seeding p. 59-62

• Core aeration p. 55-58

• String trim p. 41-47

• Edge & mulch p. 95-101

• String trim p. 41-47

• String trim p. 41-47

• Edge & mulch p.95-101

• String trim p. 41-47

Overgrown Shrubs &

• Edge & mulch p. 95-101

Weedy Shrub Beds or

• Plant to fill in hedge p. 107-112

• Plant additional shrubs p. 107-112

• Pave slope with

• Build retaining wall

Front Yard Slopes•

• If hazardous report immediately

• Report to management if surface

Loose Synthetic Play

“S” Hooks on Swings

• Straighten metal poles p.169-178

BENCHES & SEATING

Report to management hazards, such as large All year as needed

Pick up litter and sweep up broken glass All year as needed

Prune dead or broken tree branches All year as needed

Mow lawns and trim edges of walkways April - October

REPAIR ALL HAZARDS IMMEDIATELY