SCALP CARE

 Beneath your hair lies the sensitive skin of your scalp, which, though rarely
thought of, requires regular care to remain healthy.
 Like the skin on the rest of your body, your scalp consists of layers of tissue.
The lower layers are the healthiest, newest skin produced by your body,
while the outermost layer consists of cells that are mostly dead tissue and
ready to be shed to reveal the newer layers of skin beneath.
 Along with hair follicles, the skin on your scalp contains sebaceous glands,
which produce the oil necessary to keep the skin on your scalp lubricated.
A healthy scalp care routine involves regular cleansing to remove bacteria, sweat
and excess oil from the skin. Taking steps to prevent over-drying and to boost the
skin cell turnover process may also be necessary, depending upon your skin type
and the environment in which you live.
To help keep your scalp healthy year-round, follow these helpful tips:
 Don't forget to exfoliate. To help boost the skin cell turnover process,
exfoliate your scalp on a regular basis. If you suffer from dry skin or
psoriasis, you may need to exfoliate two or three times per week; otherwise,
exfoliating once weekly is generally adequate to remove dead skin cells
from the surface of your scalp. A small number of exfoliating shampoos that
contain ingredients like white willow extract and salicylic acid are available
on the market. You can also purchase a gentle facial scrub with apricot or
walnut kernels or oil beads that promote mechanical exfoliation and use it as
a pre-treatment before you shampoo.
 Preserve moisture. Many common scalp problems arise from dry skin or
are exacerbated by dehydrated tissue. When you shower and bathe, avoid
exposing your scalp to hot water whenever possible. Instead, use lukewarm
water for rinsing, which allows more of the natural sebum necessary for
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 moisturizing the tissue to remain on your scalp. Once or twice per week,
skip blow-drying and allow your hair to naturally air dry to give the skin on
your scalp a break from the drying heat of your hair dryer
 Massage. Beneath the skin on your scalp is an intricate network of blood
vessels that carry oxygen and vital nutrients to the tissue. Keeps the
circulation going in your scalp by massaging the skin when you lather in the
bath or shower? Then, once per week, spend 5 to 10 minutes massaging your
scalp, using gentle circular motions. For the ultimate indulgence, consider
getting a professional scalp massage.
 Limit chemical treatments. A great perm, straightening or hair coloring
treatment can improve the look of your hair and boost your confidence, but
the chemicals used in these treatments can dry out and irritate your scalp.
Have chemical treatments performed by a professional to limit damage, and
follow their recommendations for how often to touch up treatments. Also,
during any chemical treatment, be on the lookout for signs of irritation like
burning or itching. Should they occur, notify your stylist immediately.
 Shampoo regularly. For many people, washing your hair once per day is
ideal, though if you suffer from some scalp problems or damaged hair, you
may need to wash less frequently. Cleansing is one of the most important
parts of scalp care, but what you shampoo with is just as important as how
often you do it. Rather than shopping for a shampoo at random, look for
brands that have their basis in natural ingredients or those geared toward
your specific scalp problems.
 Protect your scalp from the sun. Skin cancer is the most diagnosed form of
cancer in the United States and often develops on the scalp, which is nearly
always exposed to the sun during your day-to-day activities. When you plan
to be in the sun for long periods of time, wear a hat to protect your scalp. In
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 addition, consider applying a spray-on broad-spectrum sunscreen to your
part or using a shampoo that contains a sunscreen, which will help protect
your scalp from ultraviolet rays
 Eat right. A well-balanced diet rich in fruits and vegetables will help supply
the skin of the scalp with the raw materials necessary to produce new,
healthy cells. Strive for two to four servings of fruits and three to five
servings of vegetables per day. In addition, include two to three servings of
meat, poultry, fish, eggs and nuts to ensure that your body has an adequate
supply of protein, which is necessary both for scalp care and a healthy head
of hair.
COMMON SCALP PROBLEMS
The scalp is prone to a variety of scalp conditions, each of which has its own
causes, symptoms and treatments. By understanding the various problems that can
plague the scalp, you'll be prepared to recognize their signs and seek treatment
through home, clinical or over-the-counter remedies.
Some common scalp problems include:
 Dandruff is a condition marked by white and yellow flakes that form on the
scalp. Often, these flakes fall off when you touch your hair and can leave
specks that are visible along the shoulders and collars of dark clothing. Skin
that is too dry or too oily is more likely to develop dandruff, and in some
cases, the condition is caused by an overproduction of yeast. If you have
dandruff, try using a shampoo that contains zinc pyrithione, coal tar,
ketoconazole, salicylic acid or selenium sulfide
 Scalp eczema is an itchy, red to brown rash that looks like small raised
bumps when viewed up close. The condition develops due to a
hypersensitivity reaction where your immune system mistakes a harmless
substance as a threat and produces inflammation to protect your body.
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 Shampoos that contain coal tar, evening primrose oil and borage seed oil are
often effective at helping alleviate scalp eczema symptoms.
 Scalp psoriasis occurs when your body fails to shed skin cells at a normal
rate, causing a buildup of cells that forms red patches that are topped with
silver flakes. The condition occurs due to a malfunction in the immune
system and can be helped by shampoos that contain coal tar, salicylic acid
and aloe vera extract.
 Impetigo is a skin infection marked by red sores that burst and then form an
orange or yellow crust. The condition is typically very itchy and often highly
contagious. If you suspect that you have an impetigo infection, see your
doctor, as antibiotics are often necessary to combat the bacteria causing the
rash.
 Folliculitis is an infection that occurs in the hair follicles and causes bumps
that can range in appearance from resembling a whitehead to a large, red
blister. An antibacterial shampoo that contains tea tree oil, burdock or
echinacea can help ease the infection, though in some cases you may need to
see a doctor for an antibiotic.

SCALP CARE AND MASSAGE

Cleanliness and stimulation are required for a healthy scalp. The purpose of a
general scalp treatment is to keep the scalp and hair in a clean and healthy
condition. Regular scalp treatments MAY help slow some types of hair loss.
Scalp Treatments: Should be given with a continuous, even motion.
1. Before shampoo: if scalp condition is present
2. During shampoo: Once conditioner has been applied for relaxation
3. Relaxation vs. treatment: The only difference between relaxation and
treatment results from the products used.
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 4. Discuss contraindications: during consultation, acknowledge and discuss
any medical conditions that may prohibit performing a scalp massage or treatment.
Do not perform it if the client has severe, uncontrolled hypertension.
SCALP MASSAGE PROCEDURE:
The same manipulations are given with al scalp treatments, and you must give
them with a continuous, even motion, which will stimulate the scalp and/or soothe
the client’s tension., Scalp massage is most effectively applied as a series of
treatments; once a week for normal scalp and more frequently for scalp disorders,
under the direction of a dermatologist.
With each massage movement, place the hands under the hair so the length of
the fingers, balls of the fingertips, and cushions of the palms can stimulate the
muscles, nerves, and blood vessels of the scalp area.
NORMAL HAIR AND SCALP TREATMENT:
a. Purpose: To maintain scalp and hair in a clean and healthy condition.
b. Examine scalp: Perform only after a full hair and scalp examination.
DRY HAIR AND SCALP TREATMENT:
a. Used if natural oil is deficient
b. Treatment products: These contain moisturizing and emollient
ingredients. Avoid strong soaps, greasy preparations, and lotions with high
alcohol content. Use a scalp steamer.
OILY HAIR AND SCALP TREATMENT:
a. Cause: Overactive sebaceous glands
b. Purpose: To flush out excess sebum through gentle pressing or squeezing.
ANTIDANDRUFF TREATMENT:
a. Cause: a fungus malassezia
b. Purpose: To suppress the growth of malassezia and loosen scalp scales.

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BRUSHING THE HAIR: Correct brushing stimulates the blood circulation of
the scalp and helps remove dust, dirt, and hair-spray buildup and gives added
shine.
Hair brushing exceptions:
a. Avoid before chemical service
b. Avoid if scalp is irritated.
c. Avoid before haircolor procedures: If shampooing is recommended,
shampoo very gently.
HAIRBRUSHES: Use brushes with natural bristles that have tiny overlapping
layers or scales that clean and add luster to hair. Hairbrushes with nylon bristles
are shiny and smooth and are more suitable for hairstyling.
UNDERSTANDING SHAMPOO:
a. PURPOSE: To cleanse the hair and scalp prior to receiving a service.
b. SCALP ANALYSIS: Always check for these conditions:
1. dry, dehydrated hair
2. Thinning of the hair
3. Excessive hair left in sink
4. Dry, tight scalp
5. Oily scalp
6. Abnormal flaking on scalp
7. Open wounds or irritation
8. Scalp disorders or diseases
9. Tick or lice infestation
SHAMPOO SELECTION CONSIDERATIONS: Become skilled at selecting
shampoos that support the health of the hair, whether natural, color-treated, fine
and limp, or coarse and wiry.
1. Hair type: Dry, oily, normal, or chemically treated.
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 2. Hair condition: Over-processed, chemically treated, damaged by harsh
products, improper care, or exposure to the elements.
3. Home maintenance: Inappropriate products used at home can diminish the
quality service you have provided.
A GREAT SHAMPOO EXPERIENCE:
1. Massage for client preference
2. Adjust water temperature for the client
3. Don’t wet the client’s face
4. Double-check the nape area
5. Do not drench the towel around the client’s neck
6. Blot the hair, not the face
7. Give a relaxation massage
THE pH SCALE: The amount of hydrogen in a solution is measured on a
logarithmic scale ranging from 0 to 14
1. Acid: - 0.1 to 6.9 pH
2. Neutral – 7.0
3. Alkaline – 7.1 to 14 The higher the alkalinity, the stronger and
harsher the shampoo, which can leave the hair dry and brittle.
4. pH balanced shampoo: in the 1960’s Jheri Redding revolutinoized
the industry by marketing the first pH balanced shampoos. The litmus
paper test was key in his marketing strategies. The litmus paper
allows you to find out if a liquid is acid or alkaline.
THE CHEMISTRY OF WATER: Water is the universal solvent, meaning it is
capable of dissolving more substances than any other solvent.
1. Purification: Fresh water from lakes and streams must be purified for
domestic use.
a. Sedimentation: A treatment that causes matter to sink to the bottom
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 b. Filtration: Passing through a porous substance, such as filter paper
or charcoal. The process removes suspended clay, sand,
and organic material.

c. Chlorine added: Small amounts are added to kill bacteria

d. Boiling: It boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit or 100 degrees Celsius.
Boiling destroys microbes.
e. Distillation: This is the process of heating water so it becomes a
vapor, then condensing the vapor so that it collects as a liquid.
This process is used frequently in the manufacture of cosmetics.
2. SOFT WATER: Rain water or chemically softened water; it contains small
amounts f minerals and allows soap and shampoo to lather freely. Have you
ever taken a shower in water so soft that you felt like you could never get the
slippery feel of soap off or the shampoo out of your hair. That is soft water.
3. HARD WATER: Hard water contains minerals that lessen the ability of
soap or shampoo to lather readily. It can be softened by a chemical process.
Have you ever showered in water so hard that you couldn’t seem to get it to
lather at all, that is hard water. Hard water usually leaves a white coating on
your skin, shower, hair, that is hard water scum.
CHEMISTRY OF SHAMPOOS: An understanding of the chemical ingredients
used in shampoos will help you prescribe the best product for your clients.
a. WATER: The main ingredient, but purified or deionized; water is
usually listed first on product labels because it represents the largest
percentage of all ingredients. All others are listed in descending order.
B. SURFACTANTS: Surfactant and detergent are synonymous,
meaning a cleansing or “surface active” agent.

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 1. Hydrophilic end: This is the “head” end of a shampoo molecule
and is “water-attracting.”
2. Lipophilic end: This is the “tail” end of a shampoo molecule and
is “oil-attracting.”
Since both ends are working during a shampoo, a push-pull effect is created
that causes the oils, dirt, and deposits to form little balls that can be lifted off in the
water and rinsed from the hair.
C. TYPES OF SHAMPOO: Shampoo products represent the highest dollar
expenditure in hair care products.
1. pH-balanced shampoo: It has a pH the same as hair of 4.5-5.5.
By adding citric, lactic or phosphoric acid to any shampoo, it can
become acid-balanced. Some believe that a pH of 4.5-5.5 is
essent6ial to prevent excessive dryness and hair damage. The
Consumer’s Union chemists believe a pH between 5 and 8 is too
small to affect the hair and scalp due to the limited time of actual
application.
2. Conditioning Shampoo: Conditioning or moisturizing shampoos
are designed to make hair smooth and shiny, improve
manageability, and avoid damage to chemically treated hair.
Protein and biotin are conditioning agents that restore moisture and
elasticity, strengthen the hair shaft, and add volume. They are also
non stripping,
3. Medicated shampoo: These reduce dandruff or relieve scalp
conditions. Some require a prescription.
4. Clarifying shampoo: These contain an acidic ingredient like cider
vinegar to cut through product buildup. They increase shine; they
shouldn’t be used regularly, but as needed.
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 5. Balancing: Wash away excess oiliness while keeping hair from
drying out.
6. Dry or Powder dry shampoos: This is used when client’s health
prevents a wet shampoo. It cleanses without the use of soap and
water. Powder picks up dirt and oils as you brush or comb through
the hair.
7. Color-enhancing shampoos: The shampoo surfactant is combined
with basic dyes. It is similar to temporary rinses, is removed with
plain shampooing. It is used to brighten, to add some slight color,
and to eliminate unwanted color tones.
8. For hairpieces and wigs: Special solutions are formulated for
these.

D. SHAMPOO AND RETAILING: Use the shampoo time to better establish

your professional relationship with the client and promote quality products for at-
home use.
UNDERSTANDING CONDITIONERS:
These are special chemical agents applied to the hair to deposit protein or
moisturizer, to help restore its strength and give it body, or to protect against
possible breakage. They are a temporary “fix” and cannot “heal” damaged hair or
improve the quality of new hair growth. Heredity, health, and diet control the
texture and structure of hair
A. RECONSTRUCTOR TYPES:
1. Rinse-out: These are also called finishing or cream rinses that
are worked through the hair for detangling.

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 2. Treatment or repair: These are deep, penetrating conditioners
that are left on hair for 10 to 20 minutes, restoring protein and
moisture. Heat may increase penetration.
3. Leave-in: These are applied and not rinsed out.
FORMULATION:
1. Silicone and moisture-binding humectants: These substances absorb
moisture or promote the retention of moisture.
2. Emollients: Reduce frizz
3. Synthetic polymers: Bulk up the hair
4. Protein conditioners: Penetrate the cortex and reinforce the hair shaft
from within
PRODUCT TYPES:
1. Instant conditioners: These remain on the hair for one to five minutes or
are “leave-in”. They contain humectants to improve the appearance of dry,
brittle hair and also contain an acid to balance the alkalinity of a prior
chemical service.
2. Moisturizers: These have a longer application time of 10 to 20 minutes.
The ingredients are formulated to be more penetrating and have longer
staying power. Some require heat application. Quats are used to increase
the ability to attach to. Hair fibers and provide longer-lasting protection.
3. Protein conditioners: These slightly increase hair diameter and add body
to hair. Available in several strengths, they are used to improve hair strength
and temporarily close split ends. They improve appearance, equalize
porosity, and increase elasticity.
DEEP CONDITIONING TREATMENTS: Also known as hair masks or
conditioning packs, these are chemical mixtures of concentrated protein in a heavy

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cream base of a moisturizer. They penetrate several cuticle layers and are chosen
when an equal degree of moisturizing and protein treatment is required.
E. DRAPING: The client must be appropriately draped for each service.
1. Shampoo (wet) draping: Two terry towels are used, one under the cape and
one over the cape.
2. Chemical service draping: ! Plastic bag place in back to cover the back
shirt/blouse, 2 terry towels, one under the cape and one on top of the cape.
THREE PART PROCEDURE:
All hair care procedures should be broken into three individual parts: pre-service,
service, and post-service.
1. Pre-service: This is a step-by-step plan for cleaning and disinfecting tools,
implements, and materials and for setting up the workstation and greeting
the client.
2. Service: The actual shampoo experience
3. Post-service: This is a step-by-step plan for caring for your client after the
procedure has been completed. It details helping client through scheduling
and payment and how you prepare for the next client.

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