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patternstore

Double Wedding Ring Quilt

by Sharon O’Brien
Originally published in Interweave Knits, Summer 2002

Copyright Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

Double Wedding Ring Quilt originally published in Interweave Knits, Summer 2002. ©Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

publishers of Interweave Knits magazine…join the online knitting community at KnittingDaily.com

Visit the online store at shop.interweave.com/knitting for more great patterns!
page 1
 Double Wedding Ring Quilt
Finished Size About 58" (147.5 cm)
square.
Yarn Jamieson’s Shetland Double
Knitting (100% Shetland wool; 170
yd [155 m]/2 oz): #183 sand (pinkish
tan; MC), 14 skeins; #180 mist (blu-
ish gray; CC), #562 cyclamen (dark
mauve), #272 fog (red-green heather),
#153 wild violet (blue-pink heather),
#1390 highland mist (teal), and #134
blue Danube (medium blue), 2 skeins
each; #581 peony (red), #556 old rose
(light mauve), #547 orchid (pink),
#440 peach, #140 rye (pale green),
#365 chartreuse, #122 granite (light
gray), and #175 twilight (dark blue), 1
skein each.
Needles Size 3 (3.25 mm). Adjust
needle size if necessary to obtain the
correct gauge.
Notions Size F/5 (4.0-mm) crochet
hook; blunt bent-tip yarn needle;
sharp-tip tapestry needle; rustproof
pins.
Gauge Center square 31 sts and 61
rows (plus cast-on and bind-off rows) =
5" (12.5 cm) square in garter st.
Notes
Because the knitted pieces are small, short
double-pointed needles are ideal.
Assemble the sixteen units of the quilt, one
at a time, as you go. Not only will this give
you a sense of accomplishment as you see
your quilt “grow,” it also keeps the work
organized and makes the assembly manage-
able.
When casting on and binding off, be sure
to leave yarn tails for sewing as specified
to help minimize the number of ends to be
woven in later.
Be sure that the long curved seams around
the melons and color bar strips are flexible
(not pulled tightly, and include no split
plies of yarn). Do not work in the cut ends
from these long curved seams until after
blocking the sixteen units. Other cut ends
Double Wedding Ring Quilt originally published in Interweave Knits, Summer 2002. ©Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
publishers of Interweave Knits magazine…join the online knitting community at KnittingDaily.com
Visit the online store at shop.interweave.com/knitting for more great patterns!
—— S H A R O N O ’ B R I E N ——
T HIS CLASSIC QUILT PATTERN SYMBOLIZES wedding rings, and, more romantically, the
intertwining of lives in marriage. Despite its complex appearance, it is easy to knit, but
like any quilt, requires a bit of sewing. It is composed of numerous small garter-stitch
shapes—squares, ovals, and rectangles—that are sewn into sixteen circular (or part-circle)
units, which in turn are joined together and trimmed with slip-stitch crochet.
should be worked in immediately after beg next 2 rows—1 st rem. Knit last st and
sewing, unless otherwise noted. cut yarn. Using sharp-tip tapestry needle,
Most pieces do not have a right or wrong work tail into WS. Knit another wedge in
side until stitches are picked up along their this manner on opposite selvedge edge of
edges or until they are sewn together. center square. Wedge worked separate-
Use the blunt bent-tip sewing needle for ly: With MC, CO 31 sts, leaving a 16"
the seams; use the sharp-tip needle for (40.5-cm) sewing tail. Work as for wedge
weaving in loose ends into plies of yarn along selvedge edge. Thread sewing tail
on the wrong side. on bent-tip yarn needle, and with WS fac-
ing and using whip stitch (see box), sew 1
Center Square wedge each to CO and BO edges of center
(Make 16) With MC and using the chain square. The assembled shape should look
edge method (see box), CO 31 sts, leav- like a four-pointed star.
ing a 16" (40.5-cm) tail for sewing seam
later. Work garter st (knit every row) for Melon
61 rows—30 garter ridges on one face, 31 (Make 40) With MC and using the chain
on the other. BO all sts loosely—31 gar- edge method, CO 2 sts, leaving a 16"
ter ridges each face. Cut yarn, leaving 16" (40.5-cm) sewing tail. Knit 2 rows. Next
(40.5-cm) sewing tail. row: K1, M1, k1—3 sts. Knit 2 rows. Inc
1 st at beg of next 2 rows as foll: K1, M1,
Wedge knit to end of row—5 sts. Knit 4 rows.
(Make 4 for each of the 16 center squares Inc at beg of next 2 rows as before—7 sts.
as foll: one picked up and worked along Knit 4 rows. Inc at beg of next 2 rows as
each of the two selvedge edges, and two before—9 sts. Knit 6 rows. Inc at beg of
worked separately and sewn to the CO next 2 rows as before—11 sts. Knit 8 rows.
and BO edges.) Wedge worked along Inc at beg of next 2 rows as before—13
selvedge edge: With MC, leaving 16" sts. Knit 8 rows. Inc at beg of next 2 rows
(40.5-cm) sewing tail, and working into as before—15 sts. Knit 11 rows. BO 1 st
selvedge garter-st bumps of center square, at beg of next 2 rows—13 sts rem. Knit
pick up and knit 31 sts. With WS facing, 8 rows. BO 1 st at beg next 2 rows—11
knit 1 row. Cont in garter st, BO 1 st at sts rem. Knit 8 rows. BO 1 st at beg next
beg of next 8 rows—23 sts rem. Knit 2 2 rows—9 sts rem. Knit 4 rows. BO 1 st
rows. BO 1 st at beg of next 4 rows—19 at beg next 2 rows—7 sts rem. Knit 4
sts rem. Knit 1 row. [BO 1 st at beg of rows. BO 1 st at beg next 2 rows—5 sts
next 2 rows, then work 2 rows even] 4 rem. Knit 4 rows. BO 1 st at beg next 2
times—11 sts rem. BO 1 st at beg next rows—3 sts rem. Knit 3 rows. BO 1 st at
2 rows—9 sts rem. Knit 4 rows. BO 1 st beg next 2 rows—1 st rem. Knit last st, cut
at beg next 2 rows—7 sts rem. Knit 3 yarn leaving a 16" (40.5-cm) sewing tail,
rows. BO 1 st at beg next 2 rows—5 sts and pull tail through rem loop.
rem. Knit 4 rows. BO 1 st at beg next 2
rows—3 sts rem. Knit 3 rows. BO 1 st at Color Strips
page 2
(Make 80 strips, each composed
of 13 individual color bars; Make
one color bar in each of the fol-
lowing colors: cyclamen [dark
mauve], fog [red-green heath-
er], peony [red], old rose [light
mauve], orchid [pink], wild violet
[blue-pink heather], peach, rye
[pale green], chartreuse, high-
land mist [teal], granite [light
gray], blue Danube [medium
blue], twilight [dark blue]). For
each color bar, CO 11 sts. Knit 4
rows. Short row: K6, wrap next st
(see box), turn, knit to end. Knit
3 rows across all 11 sts. BO all sts
loosely and cut yarn, leaving a 6"
(15-cm) sewing tail. With sewing
tail threaded on blunt-tip needle,
WS facing, and using a whip stitch,
(see box), sew the thirteen colors
into a curved strip, following the
color order given above and match-
ing the direction of curve. With
sharp-tip tapestry needle, weave in
loose ends.

Corner Square
(Make 92: 46 with MC and 46
with CC) CO 11 sts leaving 6"

rd
(15-cm) sewing tail. Knit 21

rows. BO all sts loosely, leaving
another 6" (15-cm) sewing tail.
Sew 40 MC corner squares to
the twilight (dark blue) end of 40 color
strips, then sew 40 CC corner squares to
the twilight end of 40 more color strips.
Set aside remaining 6 MC and 6 CC cor-
ner squares.
Finishing
Note: Most sewing will be garter bump to
garter bump, but adjust as needed to close
any gaps in the seam. Assemble color bar
and melon units: With RS facing and
using sewing tails from points of melon,
sew a color bar strip to the side edge of
each melon, aligning centers and match-
ing direction of curve and corner square
colors. There should be a cyclamen (dark
mauve) and twilight (dark blue) bar at
each end of melon. With RS facing, and
using whip st, sew cyclamen ends of color
strips to corresponding corner squares.
There will be 20 melon units with MC
corner squares and 20 with CC corner
squares. Assemble 16 quilt units: Label
each of the units as you assemble them,
with #1 at top left, and numbering from
left to right in rows down to #16 at bottom
right. Use any available sewing tails from
points of center square/wedge units, and
add new lengths of sewing yarn as needed.
Assemble each unit according to illustra-
tion above, noting that the garter ridges
in the center squares alternate direction,
and the corner blocks alternate colors
(checkerboard-fashion) where they meet.
Block each unit to measurements, adjust-
ing any curved seams as needed. With
sharp tapestry needle, weave in cut ends.
Assemble quilt: Join units in order, one
unit at a time, and beg by sewing corner
squares to each other. Sew curved seams,
using sewing tails when possible. Do not
Fo
le
ay
G
work in cut ends from curved seams until
after blocking entire quilt. Sew remaining
corner squares to sides of quilt, placing
MC or CC square as shown in illustra-
tion. To block, spread quilt on bed and
spray with water to dampen. Pat into
shape, adjusting curved seams as needed.
Allow to dry thoroughly. Work in rem
cut ends. Edging: With CC and crochet
hook, work slip st crochet (see box) into
each selvedge garter bump or CO/BO st
along entire outer edge of quilt. Make a
second row of slip st crochet, working
into back loop only of the first round of
slip st crochet. Y
Sharon O’Brien splits her time between Baltimore
and Washington, D.C., where she is frequently
found in museums gathering inspiration for her
handknits.

Double Wedding Ring Quilt originally published in Interweave Knits, Summer 2002. ©Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

publishers of Interweave Knits magazine…join the online knitting community at KnittingDaily.com

Visit the online store at shop.interweave.com/knitting for more great patterns!
page 3
 Chain Edge Cast-On Short Rows: Wrapping a Stitch
Work to turn point, slip next stitch
This method is worked with a crochet
purlwise to right needle. Bring yarn to
hook. It forms a tidy chain along the
front (Figure 1). Slip same stitch back
edge.
to left needle (Figure 2). Turn work and
Place a slipknot on a crochet hook. Hold
Figure 1 bring yarn in position for next stitch,
the needle and yarn in your left hand
wrapping the stitch as you do so. Note:
with the yarn under the needle. *Place
Hide wraps in a knit stitch when right
hook over needle, wrap yarn around
side of piece is worked in a knit stitch.
hook, and pull the loop through slip knot
Leave wrap if the purl stitch shows on
(Figure 1). Bring yarn to back under nee-
right side. Hide wraps as follows: Knit
dle, wrap yarn around hook, and pull it Figure 2
stitch: On right side, work to just before
through loop on hook (Figure 2). Repeat
wrapped stitch. Insert right needle from front, under the wrap
from * until there is one less than the
from bottom up, and then into wrapped stitch as usual. Knit
desired number of stitches. Bring the
them together, making sure new stitch comes out under wrap.
yarn to the back, and slip remaining loop
Purl stitch: On wrong side, work to just before wrapped stitch.
from hook onto needle.
Insert right needle from back, under wrap from bottom up, and
Figure 1 put on left needle. Purl them together.

Illustrations by Gayle Ford

Whipstitch
With right side of work facing and work-
Figure 2 ing one stitch in from the edge, bring
threaded needle out from back to front
along edge of knitted piece.

Slip Stitch Crochet (sl st)

Insert hook into stitch, yarn over hook
and draw loop through stitch and loop
on hook.

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Double Wedding Ring Quilt originally published in Interweave Knits, Summer 2002. ©Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

publishers of Interweave Knits magazine…join the online knitting community at KnittingDaily.com

Visit the online store at shop.interweave.com/knitting for more great patterns!
page 4