Face Body

Patent N° WO 2001/43701 BIOPEPTIDE CL

Keep the wrinkles at bay with the triple youth effect:

1
Palmitoyl-GHK

Function:
Anti-wrinkle.
Protection
Definition:
Hydroglycolic solution of
Palmitoyl - Gly - His - Lys.

Properties:
Stimulates collagen and
glycosaminoglycan synthesis.

2
Reinforces the epidermis.
Diminishes wrinkles.

Characteristics:
GHK is a matrikine:
Peptide messenger notably
involved in the process of
cutaneous repair.
Smoothing
GHK is a tripeptide fragment of
the collagen chain.

INCI name:
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate -
Propylene Glycol - Palmitoyl
Oligopeptide

Applications:

3
Anti-wrinkle skincare and
make-up products.

Formulation:
Water soluble.
Incorporate the emulsions at
45°C and the gels at room
Density
temperature.

Recommended use level:

2% - 5%

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CLAIM SUBSTANTIATION

In vitro tests
In vitro
Synthesis of matrix macromolecules
Human fibroblasts are put in culture in the presence Collagen synthesis__________________ +350%
of BIOPEPTIDE CL. An assessment is taken of the GAG synthesis______________________ +146%
stimulation of the synthesis of matrix macromolecu-
les in comparison with the untreated control.
Stimulation of gene expression The gene activation profile regroups genes
favouring cell migration, the reshaping of
Study of the regulation of dermal and epidermal
the extracellular matrix and factors of cell
genes in the presence of BIOPEPTIDE CL using
multiplication, all involved in cutaneous
DNA-array technique on reconstructed epidermis
restructuration.
and on fibro blast culture.
Ex vivo
Ex vivo test After 1 week After 2 weeks
Protecting and repairing collagen Collagen protection/ Quantity of collagen/
control control
The skin is subjected to a radiation UVA (2, 7Jcm²/ 5
min) then an application of a product 5 times over Retinoic Acid 99% +10%
a week. By taking a biopsy sample, a histological BIOPEPTIDE CL 86% +10%
study is carried out on the quantification of collagen.
The treatment is continued over a second week
BIOPEPTIDE CL has a protective and repairing
without UVA radiation. Further biopsy samples are
effect similar to retinoic acid.
then taken.

In vivo tests: Reinforcement of the epidermis and anti-wrinkle efficacy

Increase in the thickness of the epidermis BIOPEPTIDE CL significantly increases the
23 volunteers / 28 days / application of a cream skin’s thickness :______________________ +4%
containing 4 % BIOPEPTIDE CL or placebo /
Ultrasound measurement of skin thickness. Before After

Anti-wrinkle effect
15 volunteers / 28 days / twice daily application of a
cream containing 3 % BIOPEPTIDE CL or placebo
to the crow’s feet area / Evaluation of anti-wrinkle
efficacy by print analysis. Average variation Max variation

Length of deep wrinkles - 39%* - 79%

(* Significant / placebo : p<0.05
Depth of wrinkles - 23%** - 43%
** Significant / placebo : p<0.01) Roughness: - 17%** - 30%

Formulation Anti-Wrinkle Cream Tested formula Ref: SED0409498A

with BIOPEPTIDE CL
Part A %
Deionised water qs 100
Ultrez 10 (Carbomer, Noveon) 0.20
Part B %
Nipagine (Methyl paraben) 0.20
Glycerin 5.00
Part C %
Crodamol AB (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Croda) 15.00
Pemulen TR2 (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 0.20
Crosspolymer, Noveon)
Part D %
Potassium Sorbate 0.10
Non-guarantee:
This formulation has been subjected to limited stability tests and has been shown to perform well. However
formulators adopting this approach should ensure to their own satisfaction long term stability and functionality.
It is good practice to conduct safety tests on all final formulations prior to marketing. Suggested uses should
not be taken as an inducement to infringe any existing patents.
Part E %
Deionised water 4.00
Sodium Hydroxide 30% 0.40
Part F %
Fragrance 0.10
Part G %
BIOPEPTIDE CL (Sederma) 3.00
Protocol
Part A: Sprinkle Ultrez 10 into the water and allow to swell for
30 minutes. Heat Part B to 60°C until dissolved and allow to
cool to around 40°C. Add Part B to Part A and homogenize.
Then add Part C and pour into Part (A+B) with helix stirring.
Add Part D and allow to swell for 1 hour with helix stirring.
Neutralize with part E, homogenize well and allow to swell
for 1 hour with helix stirring. Add part F and homogenize well.
Then add Part G and homogenize well.

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